How to properly operate a turbo diesel engine. We operate cars in winter: how to prepare the car and what to look for

Tough choice

For some, the way out of this situation is long-term storage of the car in the garage until the onset of heat, while for others, continuous operation in all weather conditions. So what to do if there is absolutely no desire, and even the opportunity to part with your pet for a long time?

One of the main problems for drivers in strong winter frosts is the freezing of the car during night parking on outdoors. After all, not everyone has the opportunity to purchase warm garages. And in any case, one way or another, you will have to leave the car for a long time in the open air.

Engine starting

First of all, take care of replacing summer tires with winter ones. special attention deserves to start a frozen engine. Indeed, at negative temperatures environment Starting the engine is hindered by heavily thickened engine oil. In addition, it is at this moment that a significant part of the total engine resource is consumed, since the parts are rubbing absolutely without lubrication. Therefore, it is best to replace engine oil, which is specially designed for sub-zero temperatures, the so-called "zero".

In order to start the engine in severe frost, it is first better to turn on the high or low beam for 10 - 15 seconds, the radio, so that the battery “works”. It is also important what condition the battery is in, so it is better to replace it before winter. It is advisable to start and warm up the engine at least once a night or take the battery home. If your car is equipped with an alarm with auto-winding function, then this procedure won't be too difficult. If in this case the vehicle does not start, then you should pay attention to the candles.

Starting heaters

An extremely useful, but very expensive thing for a reliable engine start are engine preheaters. The simplest heaters are devices powered by an external, usually electrical source. Their use can significantly save fuel, because running engine wears out less than with normal heating. However, the electric heater has one, but very significant disadvantage: per night it can consume up to 10 kW of electricity, which is quite expensive in Buryatia.

alternative electric heater is an autonomous engine preheater. It can be installed both in the vehicle's power supply system, and in the cooling system or in the cooling system. Such a heater can be installed both on gasoline and on diesel type engine. In this case, the fuel tank serves as a source of energy for its operation.

The most popular offline brands preheaters in Ulan-Ude are heaters from Eberspacher and Webasto. At the same time, these devices can be equipped with both timers and remote controls, as well as be controlled using a mobile phone. There are other technologies, but they will take even more time to consider.

Doors and glass

After particularly cold nights, door seals or locks freeze through. To avoid such problems, it is advisable to treat them with any water-repellent liquid. should not be ignored and door locks. To improve their performance, you can inject WD-40 spray or similar lubricants into the lock larvae. No less problems arise with glasses. As experts advise, in order for the glass not to freeze, it is necessary to lubricate its upper face with hydrophobic impregnation. At the same time, it is better to leave the rear glass untreated so that moisture condenses there.

In addition, if you do not want your windshield to be covered with a thick crust of ice, then before leaving the car in the parking lot, it is worth equalizing the air temperature in the cabin and on the street. To do this, open the doors for 5 - 15 minutes, or leave the glass slightly ajar.

It is worth knowing that car washing in winter should be carried out at stations specially designed for this, after which drying is important. Otherwise, it is fraught with freezing of door seals, locks, destruction of paintwork, microcracks, and so on.

Also, in winter it is not recommended to leave the car on the handbrake, because otherwise, after a long parking brake pads freeze and the car simply will not be able to move. If you have to travel out of town, then just in case, take with you optional equipment: anti-skid wheel chains, tow ropes, a flashlight, a shovel, jumper cables for starting the engine from an external power source, a glass scraper and so on.

Tips for motorists for winter:

If the car does not start in the cold, then do not turn the starter for more than five seconds. In addition to the fact that you can burn it, the candles will also be filled with oil, and this will at least lead to their replacement.
- Before cold weather, replace the engine oil with one more adapted to our winter conditions, such as 0w-40, 0w-50, etc.
- Prestarting electric and autonomous engine heaters will ensure reliable start and operation of your car in winter and increase its service life.
- It is necessary to change the cabin filters twice a year, before and after winter.
- When heating the windows, you must immediately turn on the stove. Cold air must first blow over the windshield. No need to wait for the engine to warm up and then turn on the stove, because. a sharp temperature drop will lead to cracks in the glass.
- Install cardboard in front of the radiator (be sure to leave a couple of small holes in the cardboard for natural airflow). Cover the engine from above with a special non-combustible thick blanket, but the air flow to the air intake must not be allowed to be restricted, as the engine power will be significantly reduced.

What to do if the car does not start:

1. Avoid stressing the starter, which can lead to its failure, as well as filling the spark plugs.
2. Determine the reason why the engine cannot start. Is the battery supplying enough voltage? If there are characteristic clicks during start-up, then most likely your battery is dead.
3. If the battery is in order, then one of the reasons is the freezing of the engine. To start the engine, it must be properly and safely warmed up.

Reliable auto-heating

Today in Ulan-Ude there are many companies involved in professional car heating. One such company is Avtoteplo.

First of all, you should avoid such situations in which the car freezes. We are engaged in warming up the car engine with a heat gun, drying flooded spark plugs, recharging the battery, starting the engine using starting device, as well as defrosting door and trunk locks. At the same time, our specialists within Ulan-Ude come to the client in 30 - 40 minutes, - says Pavel Korolev, head of the Avtoteplo company.

The company adheres to the rule that the entire process of heating cars must be fireproof.

We use diesel heat guns, special warm blankets, heat insulators (to avoid overheating of plastic elements), battery chargers, a power plant (5.5 kW for pre-start equipment) and, of course, fire extinguishers in all mobile laboratories. At the moment we have three of them, - says Pavel Korolev.

If it so happens that the car is “frozen” and refuses to start on the first try, then in no case should you try to start the engine without preheating from the outside, by forcing warm air from below.

If you understand that the car is “frozen”, then do not make repeated attempts to start the engine. It is better to resort to small expenses for warming it up than to subsequently spend money on repairing the starter and, even worse, the engine itself. Even after successfully warming up and starting the engine, let the car idle for at least 20 minutes, and start your journey very slowly to avoid damage to individual elements of the chassis and transmission, the auto expert says.

Furious comfort and warmth

In recent years, the service of sewing covers and car insulation has been in great demand in Ulan-Ude. One of the successful and well-established companies is Forsage.

We sew covers from any fabric, leather, insulation for the hood, various partitions inside the cabin, and also insulate the cabin itself. It all depends on the desire of the customer. Today we have a preliminary record within three weeks, as there are enough orders, - says Tatyana Sidinkina, director of the Forsage company.
At the same time, only the warmest fabrics are used for covers, such as velor, flock and others.

On the skin in cold car it’s cold to sit, so many people change such seats to fabric ones. We use upholstery leather, not Chinese, but Russian. “Nakapotniki” began to be in great demand, - says Tatyana.

"Nakapotnik" is made of leather and is installed on the radiator grille. In this case, the lining is used from foam rubber or woolen batting. On the “hood” there are windows that, if necessary, can be opened so as not to overheat the radiator.

According to Tatyana, fabric covers are the most practical and warm, as foam rubber and lining are used under it. Also in the company "Forsage" you can completely insulate the interior.

We sheathe doors, ceiling, corners, in general, the entire interior of any car. Including both under the plastic and on it. For example, we sheathe plastic with leather with foam rubber and glue everything or punch it with clips. We also sew curtains under different size and length, including for minibuses, - says Tatyana Sidinkina.

The use of covers and upholstery for owners of new cars allows you to keep the "native" upholstery of the seats and the interior, which will distinguish the car favorably. According to customers, such a design of wall, door and ceiling cladding can only be done at Forsage.

Inflated lining, pierced with clips, is made only by us. Therefore, clients come to us from many regions of the country, even from Yakutia, - says the hostess of the company.

High quality signaling reliable performance car

abundance security systems for cars and functional features can confuse a novice motorist. What is the peculiarity of this or that alarm system and how to choose it correctly according to your desires, says Vadim Tyurnev, technical director of the Pandora auto technical center.

First of all, it is necessary to choose such alarms so that their price and quality match.

Today, the Tomahawk, Starline, Pandora alarms are most often faked. You can determine them by price, since the price of fakes is much lower and ranges from 1.5 to 3.5 thousand rubles. At the same time, you can purchase a car alarm in a store and come to the service station for installation, or immediately contact the service station for purchase and installation, the expert says.

It is worth paying attention to autorun, because the main problem is the communication range. For example, at Tomahawk it does not exceed 100 meters. The leaders in terms of communication range are systems equipped with GSM modules.

This alarm can be controlled from your phone. Make a call and enter a certain command, and your car will start, no matter how far away, Vadim notes.

Equally important is the quality of the assembly components.

Today, competitive firms on the market are Pandora, Starline and Sherkhan. As for Sherkhan, it is functionally good alarm, but how security complex not reliable because it is easily scanned special devices that read serial number alarm and turn it off. Alarms such as Pandora and Magic System are not scanned. But in Ulan-Ude there is no widespread use of such theft systems, and they occur mainly through the fault of the car owners themselves, the expert says.

If we evaluate the popularity of alarms, then today Starline is the leader in demand. This is due to the fact that it is inexpensive and functional, but "raw". According to the expert, the Pandora alarm system has been completely improved.

With regard to the operation of the alarm in winter period, then, according to Tyurnev, it is best to use it together with an engine preheater.

But if this is not possible, then, in my opinion, it is better to use the engine temperature start during installation, and not the environment, because. when it is -30 C outside, this does not mean that the engine temperature will be the same. But if there is no such function, then it is better to use autorun by timer. I consider the optimal plant every two hours, for Honda - an hour, and the engine running time is 10 - 15 minutes, - says the expert.

It should be noted that the Pandora autotechnical center provides services for the installation of preheaters, alarms, noise and vibration isolation of the car and its insulation.

Don't skimp on car wash

With the advent of winter, many motorists try to save money on washing their car, guided by the rule: why wash if it will soon get dirty again. However, experts advise washing the car even more often in winter than in summer, so that salt and road chemicals do not linger on it. Plaque with these substances is a powerful corrosion catalyst.

In no case do not wash the car in winter from a bucket of warm and hot water. Such washing will lead to microcracks on the paintwork, and this is the first sign of corrosion. Water will begin to seep through the cracks to the metal and over time will cause rust to form. It is better to use the services of specialized contactless car washes. Automated - less effectively remove dirt and leave scratches, depriving the car of its former mirror shine.

Check coolant

Before the onset of severe cold, do not forget to check the engine cooling system of your car. Antifreeze needs to be changed every two to three years, and sometimes earlier. For example, if the liquid has changed its original color. Timely replacement antifreeze will extend the life of the car engine and reduce the risk of freezing it in the cold.

You should also check if the coolant level is correct (there are special marks on the cooling system tank, the antifreeze level should be between the Min and Max divisions). If fluid is below level, top up.

Don't forget the battery

In the cold season, energy consumption increases (due to the electric heating of seats, windows, mirrors), and performance characteristics batteries deteriorate. On short trips, the alternator does not have time to fully restore the battery charge for the next start. That's why checking your battery should be as much a part of your fall maintenance as changing your shoes. If the performance of the battery has deteriorated, it is better to change it. And don't forget to check contact group ignition systems. So that oxidized contacts do not play a cruel joke in winter, coat them with grease, other fatty materials, or silicone grease.

washer fluid

Clean glasses - pledge safe ride, therefore, regularly check the washer fluid level in the washer reservoir in winter. When choosing an anti-freeze, pay attention to its composition and freezing point. It should not contain poisonous methanol, which is used in counterfeits. And it is better if the temperature of the frost resistance of the liquid is 5 degrees lower than that predicted during the period of its use.

Corrosion protection

After washing, check the condition of the body for scratches from stone impacts. This will prevent corrosion. Chips should be treated with a coloring pencil, and deep scratches should be painted over.

Check your headlights regularly

Car headlights should always be in good working order, and winter is no exception. Check your headlights, brake lights and turn lights regularly. Keep lighting equipment, and at the same time mirrors clean. This will make your trip safe and give you good visibility in inclement weather.

Emergency accessories

Changing a wheel in winter will be more comfortable if you have warm gloves in the trunk. Also check if the spare wheel is working properly, if the warning triangle, cable and cigarette lighter are in place. The latter will help start the car in case of battery discharge from the battery of another car.

Door locks

Surely many of you are familiar with such a situation when the door is blocked in winter. Moisture and frost are to blame. Therefore, make sure that after washing rubber seals doors were wiped dry, and the locks, if the doors are opened with a key, dried and oiled. WD-40 spray is best for lubricating locks.

How to deal with fogging windows

In cold weather, you can often observe that the windows in the car are very misted. This speaks of high humidity in the cabin. The main causes of condensation are wet floor mats, damaged or poorly fitting door seals, and a clogged climate control drain. However, more often the cause is the cabin filter, which could absorb too much moisture and not have time to dry, or it's just time to replace it. When the windows fog up, turn on the windshield blower, while making sure that the air recirculation inside the passenger compartment is turned off.

By the way, have you already bought a brush and a scraper to remove ice from the windows? Then we advise you to arm yourself with them until the big winter comes.

Vehicle durability

The durability of a car depends a lot on driving style, so we will discuss how we drive and how we should not drive, if, of course, there is a desire to save both a car and money.

When driving to work or on a business trip, try to count how many times you have to use the clutch, gearbox and brakes. After all, while the car is in order, it rarely occurs to anyone to pay attention to how certain controls are used. Of course, it is not difficult to change, say, worn-out brake pads before the time. But with the replacement of brake drums or discs will have to tinker. And it’s not at all easy to deal with worn parts of the clutch or gearbox.

Nothing, of course, lasts forever in a car. But if, for example, you use the clutch unreasonably often, maneuvering in dense city traffic, and do not take your foot off the pedal, even while standing at a traffic light, the clutch disc will, of course, not serve the prescribed 80,000 km of run. Early replacement of his situation will not save: next in line premature exit failure of the plates of the “basket” of the clutch and the bearing of the clutch release, which simply “dries out” from the thoughtless operation of the transmission and breaks through the “basket” ...

The same can be said about the gearbox. The most "patient" of the domestic ones - the "Zhiguli" gearbox - is able to "leave" both 150 and 200 thousand km without repair; Audi gearboxes are somewhat more capable of serving. But the dashing control of the box, accompanied by jerks of the lever from one position to another, disables the synchronizers long before the deadline. And this, though not the most difficult, but the repair. Therefore, patient drivers, when shifting gears, use the “three counts” technique, that is, as if they say “one, two, three” to themselves when moving the lever from one position to another.

However, “athletes” who prefer to quickly “take off the bat” have to pay not only for failing steering and ahead of schedule worn rubber. With this driving style, a huge load falls on the drive parts - the hinges are equal angular velocities, bearings, clutch disc, not to mention the engine. No doubt, modern cars equipped with powerful engines can drive like sports cars for some time. But they are not intended for “sports” loads, unless, of course, we are talking about a “one-time” car.

What to do if, nevertheless, there is a need to “tear” the engine, getting out along a muddy road or skidding in the sand or on ice? Experienced drivers they know what to do in such cases: they create conditions for the car that increase its patency. It is enough to reduce the pressure in the tires of the driving wheels to one atmosphere in order to significantly improve the adhesion of the wheels to the surface of a dirt road. And on a front-wheel drive car, which is superior in cross-country ability to a car of a classic layout, difficult sections dirt roads are overcome by moving in reverse.

Preparing your car for winter

All the tips and recommendations below do not have to be done on your own. If there is no desire to mess around - there is service stations and professional craftsmen. But you have to imagine what exactly needs to be done with the car, clearly explain it to the master, and sometimes make sure that everything is done properly.

Tires

They don’t walk on snow and ice in sandals - the car also needs to be changed for the winter. A lot has been written about winter tires, so we will briefly recall only the main points.

For winter operation tires marked: "M + S" ("Mud + Snow" means mud + snow), "W" ("Winter", or winter). These inscriptions are sometimes accompanied by pictograms in the form of a snowflake or a cloud.

It is better to choose tires a little narrower than the ones you use in the summer - naturally, within the size range allowed for your car. The tread should push through the snow and mud porridge to a hard surface, narrow tires cope with this task better.

In winter, it is undesirable to use all-season tires - those that are marked with the indices "AS" ("All Seasons" - all seasons) or "AW" ("Any Weather" - any weather).

Their "winter" opportunities are weak; they can be considered all-season in the full sense of the word only if we are talking about Europe with little snow, and not about Russia.

Studded tires grip better on ice and snow than non-studded tires. But on clean asphalt, when braking on spikes, the likelihood of wheel locking, skidding and braking distances: steel spikes glide well on asphalt. The danger also lies in the fact that drivers blindly believe in spikes and, braking on asphalt, expect the same stranglehold from them as on ice. By the way, unstudded Winter tires new generations on slippery surfaces behave no worse than studded ones.

Some drivers in winter put studded tires only on the drive wheels. And on the followers they leave ... summer. Don't do it, it's dangerous. On slippery road the probability of demolition of a non-studded pair of wheels is very high even in relatively harmless situations - the coefficients of adhesion and resistance to side slip are too different.

Engine

The main problem in winter is starting a cold engine. More often it occurs in relation to carburetor engines, but in severe frost, the owner of a car with an engine equipped with an injection system may also encounter it. The reasons are known - thickened oil, a drop in battery capacity and poor evaporation of gasoline. We will consider oils and batteries separately, but for now, a few words about the experience of countries with a cold climate, where pre-start electric heaters are widely used, a kind of “boiler” in the engine cooling system. I drove up to the house or office, plugged the plug into the socket, turned on the timer ... By the right time, the engine will be warmed up, and some designs of heaters also provide interior heating.

Electric heating devices have been presented on the Russian market for several years. The most popular are Finnish heaters, which can be equipped with timers.

The main disadvantage of electric heating is that a house or office needs to have a special shield with a socket. Exit - autonomous heater on liquid fuel, which is also built into the engine cooling system and works on the principle of a hot water boiler. It is fueled by gasoline or diesel fuel depending on what your car's engine is running on.

The benefit of heating systems also lies in the fact that when they are used, the engine resource increases. Each start of a cold engine at a temperature of -20 ° C is equivalent to a run of 800 km. By the way, according to modern views, the motor will reach operating temperature faster, and its wear will be less if, after starting, you do not stand still, but start moving as quickly as possible, avoiding, of course, excessive load on the engine.

Oil

Oil changes are usually made in relation to the mileage of the car, and not to the season. The vast majority of modern motor oils are all-weather to one degree or another. It is believed that it is necessary to fill in what is prescribed by the manufacturer in the car's operating instructions. But winters are different - both warm and slushy and frosty. And it is completely unclear whether the manufacturer assumed that his car would be operated in the conditions of the Russian winter and that he would need oil “cooler”.

If you decide to deviate from the requirements of the instructions, when choosing an oil, you can use a simple trick to determine its temperature suitability - for safety. Let's call this technique the "Rule of 35".

The marking of engine oil must include the designation of its viscosity class according to the SAE scale. For example: 15W-40. It means that this oil viscosity at "minus" temperature meets the requirements for winter oils class 15W, and with "positive" - ​​to summer oils class 40.

Remember the number "35". If we subtract the “winter” viscosity index from it (in our example, it is “15”), then we get a value called the limiting pumpability temperature, i.e. the temperature at which the oil still remains fluid: 35–15=20. This means that 15W-40 oil can be used at temperatures down to -20 ° C.

Accordingly, the lower the "winter" viscosity index, the "colder" the oil: 10W - up to -25 ° С; 5W - up to -30 °С.

Accumulator battery

The frost has hit, and the battery, which had been briskly turning the starter yesterday, flatly refuses to do so. No wonder: when was the last time you charged it?

If the battery is relatively “young” (up to 3–4 years), then in anticipation of winter it is enough to wash it outside, clean the terminals and fully charge it (if the car was constantly used in the city, the battery charge is probably far from nominal). If the battery is old and does not charge to its nominal capacity, change it without hesitation, otherwise it will let you down in winter - the capacity drops so much with decreasing temperature, and then there is also increased energy consumption: heater, seat heating, light, wipers, rear window heater ...

According to experts, the average duration of a “full life” of a battery is about 12 months, then a gradual “fading” begins. A sales peak starter batteries, according to sellers, falls just in the fall.

The times when the car owner knocked down in search of a new battery are long gone: from variety trademarks and models on store shelves ripples in the eyes. Which one to choose is a personal matter for everyone. We only note that two price groups can now be distinguished on the market: batteries costing over $60 (usually up to $100), for example Bosch, Steco, American, Fiamm, and batteries priced below $60 (Mutlu, Inci, Centra, SAEM, etc. .).

The higher prices of batteries of the first group are determined by the more advanced technology of their production. These batteries are generally categorized as maintenance free. Special types electrolytes and the hermetic design of such batteries increase their resource and provide high starter currents that guarantee cranking crankshaft engine even in severe frosts. Leading manufacturers now make it mandatory to use wafer stacking technology, as a result of which it is possible to avoid a short circuit of the battery in case of their destruction.

Cheaper batteries require periodic maintenance - checking the density of the electrolyte and measuring its level.

Often when buying new battery they try to choose a larger capacity, if only the battery fits into the space allotted for it. But capacity is not the point. Much more important is the starter current provided by the battery. After all, even the battery large capacity this indicator (due to the large intrinsic resistance) may be lower than that of a battery of a smaller capacity. In addition, a large capacity battery requires a higher charging current, which your car's alternator will not provide, and the battery will be discharged more and more during operation, which will have a deplorable effect on its life.

When buying a battery that differs from the standard one, pay attention to the location of its terminals: there are batteries " reverse polarity”, to the terminals of which the wires of your car may not reach.

Ignition system

Before the onset of winter, do not forget about high-voltage wires. After a couple of years of driving on our "salty" roads, it is advisable to replace them, best of all with silicone-sheathed wires, which are less sensitive to temperature changes. In addition, frost does not form on them, which is often the reason for the absence of a spark. A commonplace cause of malfunctions in the ignition system may be corrosion or poor tightening of the battery terminals.

Separately - about candles. Usually they are changed every 15–20 thousand km, i.e. once every year and a half (some ultra-modern candles can withstand 100 thousand kilometers or more). Saving on candles (calcining, cleaning and adjusting gaps) is not worth it. Replace spark plugs at least once a year - it's inexpensive. Install new spark plugs ahead of winter.

Supply system

Often, the power system is the cause of unsatisfactory engine operation in winter. And all because of the accumulated water condensate in the fuel tank. If the tank has drain plug, water can be simply drained; if not, then "neutralize" by applying the so-called moisture displacers. Almost all leading manufacturers of auto chemicals (STP, Loctite, Wynns, Aspokem) offer similar preparations: poured into the fuel tank, they gradually clean the power system.

It will not be superfluous to put new filter fine cleaning fuel, make sure the injectors are clean.

Body

Winter is not the best season for a car, especially when driving on streets heavily sprinkled with salt. It is during this period that the body is exposed to corrosion to the maximum, so its anti-corrosion treatment highly desirable. However, according to employees of some authorized service stations, for a number of new foreign cars, especially with a galvanized body, factory processing is quite enough.

Anti-corrosion treatment requires strict adherence to technology, and although almost all manufacturers of protective materials produce them in packaging for domestic use, it is still preferable to carry out treatment in a specialized service center. Worth it in advance

find out what technology it uses. In any case, before applying a protective coating on the bottom and arches, the machine must be cleaned of dirt, washed and thoroughly dried.

Winter is a difficult test for paintwork body. Sudden changes in temperature, snow mixed with salt, ice crust - all this leads to the appearance of microcracks in the paint. Body surface can be protected special formulations suitable for use at low temperatures, such as Plus Teflon or Color Magic. Treatment with these preparations is carried out approximately once a month after the obligatory washing of the car and drying it.

The question of where to keep the car in winter is actually usually not worth it: those who have a garage keep it in the garage, those who do not have it on the street. Oddly enough, in terms of

body safety (from corrosion, not from theft) between trips and at night it is better to leave the car on the street - with a cold body, the corrosion process is slower. In a cold garage, the heat generated by the car is enough to warm it up a little, and the melted snow and salt actively do their dirty work for some time. Well, in a warm garage, even if you thoroughly washed the car from salt from below, it will stand wet all night ...

glass

Visibility is not only comfort, but also safety. Therefore, it is hardly worth recalling that the windshield wipers, blowing and heating the windows must be in good order. Feel free to throw away brushes that leave matte streaks on the glass. And when buying new ones, try to choose branded ones - Bosch, ITE, Champion, etc. Residents of the northern regions can try heated brushes that are connected to onboard network; they went on sale not too long ago.

Now directly about glasses. It is better to entrust their examination to a specialist, but personal control will not hurt either. Even small chip on the windshield in the first frost after the autumn rain will turn into a full-fledged crack. Existing repair technologies make it possible to eliminate such a defect without removing the glass. It is easier and cheaper than glass replacement.

Another “winter” problem is fogging of glasses. With a good ventilation system, it rarely occurs, but ... It helps to use anti-fogging fluids, such as Anti-Fog or Never Fog, which are enough to be applied to the glass once a week.

Operating materials

All Consumables including antifreeze and hydraulic fluids in brake and clutch drives, have their own service life. If even the slightest doubt arises, it is not necessary to take a portion of antifreeze that has turned brown or green with age from the radiator and put it in the freezer for testing. Replace antifreeze. And do not save money by buying dubious drugs without labels and certificates - it will cost more.

No less careful should be approached to the choice of antifreeze liquids for glass washer. This is in the countryside at -20 ° C under the wheels of dry and clean snow. And in Moscow, even in severe frost - a dirty greasy slurry, which the brushes willingly smear on the glass, turning it into an opaque whitish film. Therefore, the supply of fluid in the windshield washer reservoir - required condition safe driving. But when buying a liquid with a freezing point of -20 ° C, do not flatter yourself and do not dilute it, even if it is -10 ° C outside. Practice shows that on the go, liquids with a freezing point of -40 ° C freeze on the windshield even in ten degrees below zero, if the glass is not heated (to the issue of the ventilation and heating system being in good condition).

Anti-freeze windshield washer fluids usually contain additives that effectively remove dirt and clean the glass. Some of them, it is true, foam too much, but they are also much better than cheap vodka, which some people prefer to pour into a tank.

Tire operation

Tires on any car wear out differently and unevenly. This is due to its design (for example, the driving and driven ones are loaded more), the technical condition of the suspension (silent blocks, springs, shock absorbers) and other reasons.

In order for the tires (including the "spare tire") to wear out simultaneously and evenly during operation, manufacturers recommend changing the wheels in places at each MOT, that is, after 10-15 thousand kilometers. However, each tire, getting to a new place, is first run in, and this does not always go without consequences. Let's say that her outdoor paths are better preserved. Standing in place of the one where the same tracks are more worn out, she will quickly wipe her own, since they will first be loaded more than the worn inner ones. Such running-in of tires “eats up” the greater part of the resource (mileage), the worse the technical condition of the car, primarily the suspension. In addition, after repairing the chassis or adjusting the wheel alignment, the wear pattern of the tire remaining in the old place will show if anything has changed here.

Considering all this, experienced car enthusiasts change tires in places after 25–30 thousand kilometers, i.e. once or twice before failure. In this case, it is not possible to replace (and buy) the entire set of tires at once, which suits many.

Won't Start (Tips)

Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that we hope you also have. Don't lose either one. If a missing tie or a pant leg burned with an iron can cause a disruption in a business meeting, then what can we say about a car that does not want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.

Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans, you jump into the car, "key to start" and... What the hell?! One more time. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key in the ignition and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the start. Plans and mood - "down the drain."

Take it easy. No need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. In five minutes, most likely, you will not cure. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a sick friend until the evening. And it is better to entrust it to "doctors" with a good reputation, especially if you are not a specialist. That will be cheaper. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer - well, try it yourself, if you are not too lazy to get dirty or there is no other way out.

To determine the diagnosis, you must proceed calmly: mentally study the symptoms. First - does the starter “turn”? If yes, how cheerful? You already know the answer - remember what happened when you first tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice above: “Take another car ...”) or it is faulty electrical circuit starter power (battery disconnected or dead). Only on rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse. It is easy to find, especially if you know in advance where it is. If the battery is to blame, then in addition to the starter, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work either. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has fallen off, dirty or oxidized, but the battery is in order. Tighten the terminals on it and on the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery is completely dead (they forgot to turn off the parking lights at night), you can still leave, but with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start from a push, slide or tug. However, do not flatter yourself: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic injection fuel (if there is an electric fuel pump) cannot be started by these methods. We'll have to "light up" with a neighbor. True, for some cars this can lead to damage to the “computer” - the central unit of the electronic engine control system (read the instructions for the car). If the starter turns, but sluggishly (it happens in summer, winter is a subject separate conversation), more likely, accumulator battery almost completely shattered. This will be seen by the weak headlights or the work of the sound signal. In this case, the above options for outside assistance come into play.

If the starter turns briskly, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further consideration. Check the ignition or fuel supply system, you can't go wrong. When determining the diagnosis and treating the “disease” of each of the systems, a systematic approach is needed. It is best to start with the ignition - in this system, problems are more common, especially in wet weather.

So, you need to "look for a spark." Your machine is equipped with an electronic contactless ignition system that can be integrated into electronic system engine control. In any case, the ignition system consists of three parts. Part one is low-voltage (a special sensor plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two is a step-up transformer, referred to in the world as an ignition coil. Part three - high-voltage (mechanical or electronic ignition distributor and high-voltage wires of the ignition system, through which current is supplied to the candles high voltage). And, of course, the candles themselves. The verification of all this economy should be carried out in stages and it is better to start “from the end”.

Stage one. High voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the ignition coil to the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cap and brought closer to any part that has good contact with the “ground” (body) of the car (whether it is painted or not, it does not matter), and fixed so that there is a gap of 5–7 between the tip and the selected part mm. It is necessary to fasten the wire especially reliably: if it falls to the "ground", the electronics will instantly "order to live a long time." For the same reason, you can not "strike" the wire on the body. We don’t recommend holding it with your hand either, not even your own, it will shock you great.

Stage two. Turn the engine over with the starter. At the same time, look at what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two options. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by a loud click. This significantly narrows the field for further searches.

The first step is to remove the distributor cap. Under it can be damp and dirty. Through such a “conductor”, the spark willingly jumps anywhere, but not where it is needed.

Wipe, scrub and dry. At the same time, it is harmless to clean the contacts of the distributor, for example, with a fine sandpaper. Examine the so-called "runner". If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to be changed. In the most biased way, check the wires coming from the distributor to the candles. Wires and their lugs must be dry and clean. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with them, you can put the cover back on, reconnect and try to start the engine. If the fault was hidden under the cover, the engine would start, or in the worst case, at least start to sneeze. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn out, clean and dry the candles: in an attempt to start the engine, you filled them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the candles will still have to be turned out, cleaned and checked. It's easier if you have a spare set.

If you have already got to the stage of turning out the candles, you can quite effectively (and effectively) check the ignition system as a whole. Having connected the high-voltage wires of the ignition system to the turned out candles, collect the candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap it around the threaded part of the candles with a soft bare wire. Make sure the wire is in contact with, but not touching, each spark plug. central electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to ground. Having placed a bunch of candles in a place convenient for observation from the passenger compartment, turn the engine with a starter. Between the electrodes of the candles in turn (according to

the order of operation of the cylinders) cheerful sparks should jump. If so, then the entire ignition system is working. The sound of the engine in this case will be very unusual, but do not be alarmed, because it is spinning with the candles turned out. Don't spin for too long. Worse, if at the second stage of the test there is another option: there is no spark between the central wire and the “ground”. So, it's not about high voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate the supply of your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage.

Stage three. Check if voltage is applied to the ignition coil. This is easy to do with a tester, and if not, you can use the engine compartment lamp. True, you need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. You need to connect the light bulb between the "mass" and the input of the primary winding.

At the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: voltage is either applied to the coil or not. If it is supplied, the coil is to blame - breakdown or short circuit, which, however, happens extremely rarely. The coil will need to be changed. Happens more often bad contact in the connection of wires with the coil. Or the same wet mud, through which the spark flows out to no one knows where. Sometimes the coil is polished to a shine, but underneath it remains an invisible, very narrow strip of dirt - a good conductor.

If at the third stage you made sure that the coil is not energized, the electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. You can’t cope with electronics (switch and less often a sensor in the distributor housing) - for their diagnosis you need special equipment. You can only pull the sensor connector on the distributor housing - suddenly it will help. The voltage at the connector contacts is only 12 V, so you can pull it fearlessly. If voltage appears (when the contacts are pulled, the light flashes), restore everything that has been unscrewed and disassembled, start the car and, perhaps, you will still have time to go about your business. If the engine does not start, but at least sneezes, turn out the candles and ... (see above).

It may also happen that the entire ignition system was checked, it is in order, but the engine, even if you crack, still does not start. This means that there are problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - the power supply system, that is, the supply of fuel to the engine.

If you have an injection machine (fuel injection system), do not touch it (the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it is she who is faulty: there is a spark, the fuel is suitable - that means she is darling. Treatment only in a hospital. At home and with handicraftsmen, repairing it is useless and even harmful.

We saved the rare but most unpleasant diagnosis for last. If the starter is working properly, and you have already spent a lot of time and made sure that the ignition and power are in in perfect order, but the car still does not start - it is worth inspecting the drive belt camshaft. However, decide for yourself: this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has traveled more than 60 thousand km. The difficulty is that you have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the plastic or metal casing covering the belt. It is possible that the teeth of the belt are cut off (in belts, like in humans, teeth are lost from old age). In this case camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not run. It is clear that the toothless belt needs to be replaced. The procedure for replacing the belt is simple, but rather troublesome. It is carried out in a hospital. Well, if everything is limited to replacing one belt, and not bent valves or the entire cylinder head - this also happens.

Clogging of the food system (about the causes of "atherosclerosis")

Let's try to explain why the circulatory system of a car is sometimes affected by "atherosclerosis". Gasoline is the blood of the car. And the blood must be pure and run through clean vessels. And in the fact that in the vessels above allowable measure“cholesterol” accumulates, as a rule, we ourselves are to blame. How often do you use a canister to add gasoline to the tank? If so, then the chances of clogging the gas line and filters increase, especially if your funnel is without a mesh. Garbage, rust, sand usually accumulate in the canister, and if the canister is painted inside, then paint particles. It is clear that the less intermediate containers are used on the way of gasoline from the dispenser to the tank, the better. Oddly enough, even at the most seedy gas station, there is less dirt in tanks in a specific ratio than in a “home” canister. The scourge of our gas stations is not so much dirt as water. But here we are powerless. However, in order not to add water to domestic diluted gasoline with your own hands, try to always keep the tank full. Condensation accumulates in an incomplete tank, especially in the off-season, when sudden temperature changes occur.

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since it is maintenance-free on most modern cars, it makes no sense to give operating instructions here. We will give just a few additional tips on how to keep the battery viable longer. Do not get carried away stuffing your car with additional energy consumers. The fact that in energy balance the car has a certain margin that allows you to connect two or three "freeloaders", does not mean that you can hang six horns and ten fog lights- have a sense of proportion. In addition, if you connect unintended consumers yourself, there is a high probability of damage to the insulation. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified intervention in the electrical wiring of a car sooner or later makes itself felt in trouble.

If your battery is "breathing its last", try not to turn off the engine during countless stops in the city. Nothing drains a battery like frequent use of the starter.

And finally (this applies not only to the battery, but also to the entire electrical equipment of the car), remember: all terminals, contacts, wire lugs must be dry and clean, well adjacent to the “destinations”. Dirty, oily insulation breaks through sooner or later, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) cause of ignition system failure or fire.

You can stop there. Meticulous motorists, of course, drew attention to some superficiality of our advice. We admit that we deliberately do not want to go deep into the jungle, so as not to provoke you to self-treatment - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain in the lower abdomen on the right does not mean that you yourself have to remove your appendix. But you must accurately describe the symptoms of appendicitis to the doctor. It helps a lot with the treatment.

This rhetorical question is asked by every car owner, no matter what car he owns. The answer is simple - read the instructions, and you will not be mistaken. If you are too lazy to read, you will still have to read this article, in which we want to give you the advice of an automotive engineer with forty years of driving experience.

We start with an external inspection: it is not necessary to go around the car in a circle, but when approaching the car, carefully look at the external condition of the body, tire inflation, the presence of an external hitch - additional headlights, if any, wiper blades, moldings, company badges. If everything is in order, you can get in the car. Your further actions depend on the technical condition of your car. The car is new- do not fool yourself and calmly ride on health, the technical condition of the car is in the hands of the warranty service station.

Your the car has passed the warranty- start monitoring her behavior. Before starting the engine, look under the hood, check the oil level, the absence of oil and antifreeze leaks. The condition of the alternator belt is checked by pressing the hand.

Engine should start right away. Without prolonged use of the starter. A properly adjusted engine should start on a "cold" 5-8 seconds after starting. A longer start indicates problems: the condition of the electrical equipment (candles, the condition of the wiring, the quality of the starter). Increased smoke from exhaust pipe indicate problems piston group: the condition of the rings, etc. All this can serve as a reason for a visit to an electrician or minder.

Finally started the engine. We listen. The operating instructions say that the ride can be started immediately after starting the engine. In general, it is doubtful. The oil must warm up and get into all the “crevices”, otherwise it will be bad. IN modern cars it is recommended to start driving after the pointer of the temperature sensor moves away from zero. I don't hear a knock from the engine. So let's go.

We will not dwell on the skills and methods of driving - this is a special topic. So let's go. It is very important to learn to listen and, most importantly, to hear everything that happens in the salon. We must learn to distinguish between motion noises and so-called alarm sounds who can whisper, can talk, but can also scream that something is wrong. If there are things that you do not understand, do not hesitate to contact a specialist, and believe me - it will cost you much less than the advice of "experienced".

Do not forget that the noise in the cabin, all other things being equal, is directly dependent on tire pressure. Too little pressure can cause premature wear of the ramps, too much pressure can lead to wear of the chassis. About once every two weeks, do not be too lazy to drive up to the tire shop and check the tire pressure, remember that it can change depending on temperature, driving modes. When moving to flat road and in the absence of interference from oncoming and passing movements try to release your hands from the steering wheel for a few seconds and see how the car behaves: if the car goes smoothly without deviations, then everything is in order, if it pulls in any direction, then this is an occasion to check the camber, convergence. You will pay a minuscule amount, compared to the cost of rubber, chassis repairs and similar “little things”.

Another little tip: never save on vital (for the car of course) spare parts. You can buy used spare parts without any guarantee and beautifully “get” to buy originals, plus quite expensive specialist services.

Fuel sales

The Intop company offers favorable conditions buy gasoline or diesel fuel in bulk. Our fuel is thoroughly tested for quality. We will make you the most optimal offer for the purchase of fuel on the oil market.

Automatic transmission differs from manual transmission in simple control and does not require additional skills or abilities from the driver. Even a child can successfully handle driving a car on the machine. The operation of an automatic transmission has its own characteristics.

The automatic transmission selector is the main control of an automatic transmission. On the automatic transmission selector, as a rule, the following designations are located:

P - Parking mode. The box is blocked.

N - Neutral, the wheels of the car are not blocked, the moment from the engine is not supplied to them.

D(D3) - Normal forward movement with all gears shifted sequentially.

S(L2,2,D2) – Downshift mode. IN extreme conditions This is a forced gear reset and engine braking. If winter mode is not provided, then S will be its analogue.

L (D1) - Movement only in first gear. It is impossible to drive in this gear for a long time and even more so quickly. The gearbox and motor will quickly overheat, fail and repair will be necessary.

Overdrive - Prohibition of switching the next gear. Needed for overtaking.

Power / Sport - Automatic transmission mode, when the gears are switched to more high revs engine.

ECO - Economy mode.

Winter/Snow - Driving mode on slippery surfaces (sand, snow, ice), the car will start from 2-3 gears, making it easier to overcome obstacles. This is especially true for winter conditions.

Block - Unlock button (may be in the form of a key) for shifting gears without a key in the ignition. Necessary for towing a car after an accident or breakdown.

Kick-down - Operating mode for fast acceleration. The gas pedal is pressed all the way, the machine “thinks” for 1-2 seconds and starts to accelerate the car sharply.

After buying a car, it is better to study its owner's manual. The machine seriously makes life easier for any car owner, but is not able to correct all his mistakes. For correct driving, you still need experience and understanding of the operation of the car.

How to drive a car with an automatic transmission?

1. Before driving, especially in winter, be sure to let the car warm up. The oil should be distributed throughout the automatic transmission. Some manufacturers advise you to stand in gear for a few minutes (on the brake, of course). If this requirement is not observed, the box will break and repair will be required.
2. It is not recommended to leave the car on the rise only in the parking lot, you must use the handbrake. In position P, the box is locked mechanically, but the lock is not designed for loads. If the car somehow starts moving in this position of the automatic transmission selector, it will be damaged.
3. The rear and front change only when the car stops, but at the same time holding the lever in the N position is highly discouraged.
4. Start moving only after a characteristic push into gear.
5. Accelerate and move off as smoothly as possible. The wear of automatic transmission mechanisms depends on this.
6. It is not recommended to move the lever to the N position during short stops at traffic lights, as well as when driving downhill. Experience shows that shifting gears at speed quickly disables the automatic transmission.

1. When driving on slippery surfaces (rain, snow, ice, sand), it is necessary to move as smoothly as possible without slipping. If the car is still stuck, it is absolutely impossible to slip - the box can die right on the spot. There is a huge amount of advice and ways to overcome obstacles. Get used to driving smoothly in winter conditions.
2. Periodically check the condition and level of the oil. Old oil loses its properties and can no longer provide a box normal conditions work.
3. When overtaking, use the overdrive mode.
4. If something is wrong with the box, you need to immediately transport it to the service and repair it. Driving on a faulty automatic transmission will only exacerbate the situation.
5. The engine can only be started in positions N and P.
6. If you need to move quickly, and the machine “dulls”, hold the gas and brake pedals for 1–2 seconds before starting to move, then release the brake sharply.
7. It is not recommended to transport cars using automatic transmission. In extreme cases this can be done very slowly and only in the lowest gear (L).
8. Use only the oil recommended by the manufacturer. If the oil has other properties, the automatic transmission will fail and repair will be necessary. To understand which brand is needed, the instruction manual will help.

automatic transmission and winter

Automatic transmission operating modes in winter have their own characteristics. Most automatic transmission failures occur in winter, so it is very important to follow the recommendations for operating a car in the cold season:

1. In winter, there is a lot of snow, which leads to frequent slippage of the car. This should be avoided.
2. It is important to warm up the box in winter, immediately after the engine has warmed up.
3. If the automatic transmission oil has not changed for more than 30 thousand kilometers, it is worth replacing it. It is especially important to do this before operating the car in winter.
4. It is necessary to switch the box to the “movement in winter” mode, if there is one in the car. It is usually denoted by the following characters: WINTER, SNOW, "*", HOLD.

Taking into account the peculiarities of driving a car in winter and observing the rules of operation, the car owner will save himself from many problems that are typical for this time of year.

Operation of popular car brands with automatic transmission

Ford Focus

The transmission of a Ford Focus car is as reliable and durable as other parts of this brand. Experts consider Ford transmissions to be among the most trouble-free and stable, in addition, their repair is quite simple and cheap.

Incorrect and careless operation, non-compliance with the recommendations of the Ford car manufacturer can lead to premature failure or even permanent failure of the Ford Focus automatic transmission, with the need for it complete replacement. To avoid such unpleasant consequences, do not neglect the simplest rules for using an automatic transmission in a Ford Focus car and the recommended ways to care for it.

By the way, these rules are quite simple:

• try to avoid abrupt start and braking, slippage of the car Ford Focus;
• be sure to warm up the Ford Focus before starting the trip;
• shift the selector correctly and smoothly, avoid using kick-down (forced downshifting);
• monitor the oil level in the automatic transmission, change it in time; You can find out the replacement period for an automatic transmission model by looking at the instruction manual.
• from time to time replace Ford Focus consumables: filters, gaskets, seals.

If you follow these simple tricks, you can extend the operating period of the automatic transmission of a Ford Focus car several times over, as well as use its full potential.

Lada Granta

Lada Granta is the first car domestic manufacturer, on which an automatic transmission was installed, which was a real breakthrough in the engineering industry of our country. The first Lada Grant with such a gearbox was released in 2012. Automatic transmission for cars Lada Granta supplies Japanese firm JATCO. Transmissions of this brand are mounted on cars of such famous brands like Toyota, Nissan, Volkswagen, Mazda and Subaru. Adapting a Japanese automatic transmission with an engine manufactured in Tolyatti was not easy for manufacturers, in connection with this, the engineers decided to turn to their Austrian colleagues for help. As a result of these combinations, many functions of the automatic transmission from Japan had to be abandoned, but, ultimately, the Asian automatic transmission was combined with domestic motor still succeeded.

There is no doubt about the reliability of the automatic transmission of the Lada Grant car, Russian manufacturers managed to release really quality car, permanent repair which is not required. Numerous test drives and positive reviews from car owners of the Lada Granta car confirm this information. But, as in any other car, when operating an automatic transmission in a Grant, you must follow some rules:

• monitor the oil level in the automatic transmission and its condition, change filters and seals in time; What filters to use and what brand of oil is needed can be found by looking at the instruction manual;
• press the gas pedal smoothly, try to avoid slipping;
• in severe frosts, it is worth warming up the car for 10–20 minutes;
• when transporting, it is important to fix the drive wheels above the ground to avoid their rotation;
• you can’t drive a Lada Grant car when its engine is faulty, press the “gas” and “brake” pedals at the same time, and shift the gear to the “forward” or “reverse” mode until the car’s movement is completely stopped;
• when reversing on a Lada Grant car, it is not recommended to switch to high speed;
• if the automatic transmission oil has become black or Brown, it should be replaced immediately and the operation of the automatic transmission of the Lada Granta car should be diagnosed.

Toyota Camry

The body of the Toyota Camry 30 is equipped with a box U241E. This is a reinforced gearbox designed to work on 2 and 3 liter engines. The Camry 30 is in all respects a reliable and unpretentious car, this also applies to the box. The power reserve for 30 body is quite solid, which allows you to operate the automatic transmission in quite extreme conditions and for a long time to transmit big moment without consequences. Compared to U240, 41 models have reinforced drums, axles and pump. For proper operation of the Camry 30, you will need to monitor the level and condition of the oil, like any automatic transmission, the U241E is sensitive to oil starvation. Having a reliable Camry 30 at their disposal, drivers often simply forget about periodic maintenance, assuming that this car must first drive its first million. This is wrong. Camry 30 will travel more than 1,000,000 only with proper operation. Also on the 30th body you can find automatic transmissions U250, U141, U151. On 30 models with a 2AZ engine, a 5-speed U250 was installed.

Honda

Owners of the Honda Civic, Element, Pilot, Stream should remember that the automatic transmission does not have an additional cooling radiator and the box should be operated very carefully. Modern Honda automatic transmissions, for example, the Accord body, starting from the CL7, are equipped with an additional M mode, which is responsible for manual switching gears. D3 - Honda heavy duty mode: urban traffic, trailer, rough terrain.

Audi 8, BMW 3,5,6 and Volkswagen Phaeton

Automatic transmission 09L is installed on premium cars audi 8, BMW 3,5,6 series (except for the 7 series, a 5-speed body is still installed on the 740) and Volkswagen Phaeton . 09L has 6 stages and is designed for engines up to 3.5 liters. Due to the number of gears in the 09L, fuel economy is seriously affected, in addition, the 09L is a very reliable and unpretentious gearbox. For proper operation of the 09L, frequent replacement of the main filter element, a single-layer membrane, is necessary. If it is not changed, this will lead to oil starvation and the 09l will quickly fail and need repair.

Mercedes

The Mercedes Benz brand independently develops and manufactures gearboxes for its cars, which is why the characteristics of this unit have reliable and durable parameters. The operation of the automatic transmission of Mercedes cars is particularly smooth, which fully coincides with the ideology of the design of cars of this brand as a whole. Most models of the Mercedes Benz brand have a gearbox - a variator type.

A variator is a device in an automatic transmission that transmits torque, which is aimed at smoothly changing the gear ratio in a certain control range. In other words, the CVT is needed for stepless motion, which imparts smooth rotation to the drive wheels. Thus, a Mercedes with a CVT-type gearbox starts its movement more smoothly, and picks up speed without dips and jerks. Acceleration at the same time occurs more rapidly due to the lack of gear shifting.

Also, the owner of a Mercedes car with a CVT-type automatic transmission will never have to experience such unpleasant moments as a car stalling at a traffic light or rolling back when driving uphill. Some motorists may be alerted by the absolutely identical sound of the engine, regardless of what speed and in what mode it operates, but apart from the lack of aesthetic pleasure from the sports “roar” of the engine, this does not have any negative consequences, and does not affect dynamic properties Mercedes car.

The variator box has several significant operational differences that owners of a Mercedes car should consider:

1. Pour into the variator special liquid, which differs from the usual oil required for automatic transmissions. In addition, careful monitoring of the level of this fluid in the gearbox is required.
2. Heavy loads on the car in cold weather should be avoided. Before driving, be sure to warm up the car.
3. The operation of the variator box directly depends on the health of the pressure sensors, speed, crankshaft position. In the event that at least one of them fails, the use of a Mercedes car will have very detrimental consequences, including wrong work transmission. Therefore, it is very important to monitor the car's sensors, to do their visual inspection before each start of movement.
4. And most importantly, if a variator box malfunctions, it cannot be repaired on its own. It is necessary to repair the variator and replace it only with specialists in the salon according to maintenance cars. The repair of the variator has not been mastered in Russia to the proper extent, you should remember this and not subject the gearbox to unnecessary loads.
5. Study the manual for a car with a CVT and do not make mistakes.