Starter adjustment.

06.12.2021

A jet is a device for precise dosing of fuel, air or their mixture (emulsion). Dosing occurs through a calibrated hole in the jet. On carburetors 2105, 2107 Ozone in different systems there are 13 jets. Consider their calibration data and location on the carburetor. This information can be useful when checking the compliance of the jets with the nominal value, setting the carburetor to the minimum fuel consumption, or, conversely, tuning to increase the engine's power characteristics by selecting jets.

What are the prices (sizes)

Parameters and calibration data of carburetors DAAZ 2107-1107010 Ozone and 2107-1107010-20 Ozone

Main dosing systems

Mixing chamber diameter

1st chamber - 28 mm

2nd chamber - 32 mm

The diameter of the narrow part of the large diffuser

1st chamber - 22 mm

2nd chamber - 25 mm

Small diffuser marking

1st chamber - 3.5

2nd chamber - 4.5

Diameter of the main fuel jet GDS

1st chamber - 1.12 mm

2nd chamber - 1.50 mm

Main air jet diameter

1st chamber - 1.50 mm

2nd chamber - 1.50 mm

Idle system and transition systems

Idle fuel jet diameter

1st chamber - 0.50 mm

Idle air jet diameter

1st chamber - 1.50 mm

The diameter of the fuel jet of the transition system of the 2nd chamber is 0.6 mm

The diameter of the air jet of the transition system of the 2nd chamber is 0.7 mm

accelerator pump

Atomizer hole diameter - 0.4 mm

Productivity for 10 clicks - 7.0 ± 1.75 cm3

Econostat (2nd chamber)

Fuel jet diameter - 1.50 mm

Air jet diameter - 1.20 mm

Emulsion jet diameter - 1.50 mm

Pneumatic drive of the second chamber of the carburetor

Air jet diameter

1st chamber - 1.50 mm

2nd chamber - 1.20 mm

Adjustment

First of all, a detailed inspection should be made, then everything should be properly washed and cleaned of dirt and other imperfections.

After that, it is necessary to clean the strainer and wash the float chamber.

And finally - the adjustment of the float system (1), the trigger mechanism (2) and the idle speed (3).

Attention! The performance of these works does not require the dismantling of the carburetor.

Checking the strainer, which is located in front of the entrance to the float chamber, is carried out at least once every 60,000 runs.

Replacement

The main problem that periodically arises in the operation of the VAZ 2107 carburetor is that the jets are clogged, as a result of which their throughput is reduced. During maintenance, it is recommended to blow or flush them with special fluids that flush the carburetor. According to the instructions for use of these liquids, the jets can be processed superficially, without disassembling the carburetor. Purge can be done in the same way.

Often these measures are sufficient to restore the efficiency of the VAZ 2107 fuel system. But with significant clogging, it will still be necessary to disassemble the carburetor with alternately unscrewing and washing the jets. It is better to do this on a flat surface, covered with newspaper or a clean rag, so that a large number of small parts that make up the carburetor are not lost or mixed up.

After cleaning and reassembly, idle and load adjustments are recommended. For this, special adjusting screws are used. First, the idle speed is adjusted, achieving stable engine operation at 800-1000 rpm. After that, the efficiency of the engine under load is checked, the absence of dips during the transition from idling to maximum speed. When they appear, the quality screw increases the amount of fuel in the mixture, while tightening the quantity screw to set the idle speed to the previously set value.

The VAZ 2107 car is one of the most common representatives of the domestic "classics". Although these sedans are no longer produced, they are actively used by a large number of motorists. Setting up a VAZ 2107 carburetor is one of the most pressing issues for every owner of such a car.

It is worth noting that membrane-needle, float and bubbling carburetors are used in cars. In our article we will talk about adjusting the float carburetor VAZ 2107 from the manufacturer "OZON".

Carburetor device VAZ 2107 (diagram)

First, I would like to emphasize that individual versions of carburetors can differ significantly from each other, since they are used only on certain cars. In our case, the situation looks like this:

The DAAZ 2107-1107010 version is used exclusively on VAZ 2105-2107 models.
The DAAZ 2107-1107010-10 version is installed on VAZ 2103 and VAZ 2106 engines with an ignition distributor that do not have a vacuum corrector.
The DAAZ 2107-1107010-20 version is used exclusively on the engines of the most recent VAZ 2103 and VAZ 2106.

The device of the VAZ 2107 carburetor looks like this:

float chamber;
autonomous idling system;
dosing system;
transitional system of two chambers;
idle shut-off valve;
throttle valve;
separation of crankcase gases;
econostat.

You simply do not need more detailed information, since it is not useful for adjusting the VAZ 2107 carburetor. The composition of the carburetor of this car includes the following devices that provide and also distribute the combustible mixture:

Support for starting and warming up the engine.
econostat system.
Support for a stable level of gasoline.
Accelerator pump.
Engine idle support.
The main dosing chamber, in which the fuel and air jets, the emulsion tube, the VTS sprayer, the well and the diffuser are located.

Before cleaning the VAZ 2107 carburetor and its further adjustment, it is necessary to clearly understand that it is not necessary to disassemble those elements that normally perform their functions. In particular, one must be very careful with the dosing system.

Carburetor adjustment is carried out in the following sequence:

First, wash and clean the outer part of the carburetor elements.
Next, you need to check all the elements for visible defects.
It is also very important to remove various filter contaminants.
Then wash the float chamber.
Be sure to clean the air jets.
At the end, the float chamber of the VAZ 2107 carburetor is adjusted, as well as the starting mechanism and idling.

We want to emphasize that for this kind of work it is not at all necessary to dismantle the carburetor. In addition, you need to understand that all elements have a self-cleaning function, and dust and dirt do not penetrate inside.

Checking the condition of the strainer

It is necessary to fill the float chamber with fuel by pumping. This will close the check valve, after which you need to move the top of the strainer, dismantle the valve and clean it with a solvent. For best results, it is also recommended to use compressed air to blow out the valve.

If you decide to adjust the VAZ 2107 carburetor for the reason that the engine began to work unstably, first of all, we recommend that you check the strainer. Problems often arise from problems in the fuel supply, which can be caused by a clogged filter.

Do not use a cloth to clean the bottom of the float chamber. This will lead to the appearance of fibers on the bottom, due to which the carburetor jets will become clogged. To perform cleaning, a rubber bulb is used, as well as compressed air.

A bulb is also used to check the tightness of the locking needle, since the pressure that appears as a result of squeezing this object with the help of hands approximately corresponds to the pressure of the gasoline pump. During installation of the carburetor cover, it is necessary to check whether the floats are installed upwards. Significant pressure will be felt during installation. At this point, the VAZ 2107 carburetor must be listened to, since air leaks are unacceptable. If you notice even a minimal leak, you will have to change the valve body, as well as the needle.

Setting up a VAZ 2107 carburetor - float chamber

To adjust the float chamber, follow these steps:

Check the position of the float and make sure that its mounting bracket is not deformed (if the shape has changed, the bracket will have to be aligned). This is very important, because otherwise the carburetor float will not be able to sink properly into the chamber.
Setting with closed needle valve. Open the float chamber cover and move it aside. Then you need to carefully pull the tongue of the bracket. You need to make sure that there is a distance of 6-7 mm between the cover gasket and the float. After immersion, it should be between 1 and 2 mm. If the distance is noticeably greater, you need to change the needle.
With the needle valve open, there should be approximately 15 millimeters between the needle and the float.

It is also not necessary to remove the carburetor from the engine to perform these steps.

Launcher setup

To adjust the starting system of the VAZ 2107 carburetor, it is necessary to dismantle the air filter, start the engine and pull out the suction. The air damper should be opened by about a third and the speed level should be in the range of 3.2-3.6 thousand rpm.

After that, we lower the air damper and set the speed to 300 less than the original one.

Idling setting on the VAZ 2107

Idling adjustment is carried out after the machine has been preheated. With the help of the quality screw, it is necessary to set the maximum speed, and the quantity screw does not need to be turned.

Then, using the quantity screw, it is necessary to achieve the setting of the speed level by 100 rpm more than the required one. After that, we start the motor and adjust the speed using the quality screw to the required value.

The operation of the engine of your car, first of all, depends on what this engine is powered by. And to be more precise, on what the air-fuel mixture will be. And here it is very important that the correct amount of air is mixed with a certain amount of fuel. After all, if the proportions are met, then the engine will produce maximum power with relative efficiency. And it depends on how to adjust the carburetor on the VAZ 2107. After all, it is the carburetor that is responsible for the air.

There are several ways to do this, depending on the type of carburetor you are using. They are membrane, float, needle. As for the carburetors of VAZ 2107 cars, they are of the float type.

If you want to increase the life of the motor, as well as its efficiency, then you should pay due attention to the condition and adjustment of such an aggregate unit as a carburetor.

Carburetor modification

The first thing you have to do before you start adjusting the carburetor on your car is to find out which model is on it:

The presence of a vacuum ignition corrector indicates that you have a VAZ 2103/2106 engine and a modification carburetor 2107-1107010-20.
If you have an engine from the “six”, but there is no corrector, then you have a modification carburetor 2107-1107010-10.

Malfunction symptoms

To solve the problem, you need to know the signs and causes of its occurrence. Considering that the operation of the carburetor directly affects the dynamic qualities of the car, the following symptoms of a malfunction can be noted:

The engine is hard to start, it can “sneeze” for a long time.
While pressing the gas, jerks, failures in the operation of the engine may be observed, the car may twitch.
Heavy and long acceleration, no matter how you put pressure on the gas.
Abnormal "gluttony" of the engine ().

In case you started to observe one or more of the signs from this list, then you should start adjusting the carburetor.

You will get the best quality of adjustment if you remove the carburetor from the car. During operation, do not use woolen, fleecy cloth and various wires to clean the jets.

Float system adjustment

After you've removed the carburetor, it's best to adjust the float system first.

If the float is correctly adjusted, then its stroke will be in the range of 6.5 mm on one side and 14 mm on the other. It will not be difficult for you to adjust it, you can use the checking template by setting the camera vertically. This will allow the float to make slight contact with the valve ball, but will not exert pressure on it.

If you notice that your stroke is not 6.5 mm, then you should bend the needle valve tab a little to get the desired value.

Then adjust the opening level of the needle valve, it is he who is responsible for passing fuel into the chamber. When there is enough gasoline in the chamber, the float rises, reducing the flow of gasoline, but if you press the gas sharply, it opens, the fuel will begin to be consumed more intensively, and the float will lower, opening the valve.

After that, you need to adjust the stroke of the float on the other side. Check for deviations by moving it away from the cover until it stops, the distance should be 14 mm. In case of discrepancy to this value, bend the stop of the bracket for attaching the float so that a distance of no more than 14 mm is obtained.

After you carry out the steps described above, the float will have a stroke of about 8 mm.

Trigger Adjustment

A mandatory step in setting up the carburetor is adjusting the starting device, because it starts a cold engine with its help. In this case, several times more gasoline can be supplied to the air-fuel mixture than in the operating mode.

The frequency of the starting device on the VAZ 2107 carburetor is 1500 rpm, which corresponds to the engine idling.

Below is a diagram of the starter:

The principle of operation of the trigger is such that when you pull the choke, you activate it, at the same time:

the cable pulls the three-arm lever and, turning it counterclockwise, cocks it;
the telescopic rod also moves, rotating the air channel damper by means of a lever;
the other arm of the three-arm lever acts on the axis of the throttle valve of the first chamber;
the air damper is in the closed position, and the throttle is slightly ajar and has a starting gap.

Having decided to adjust the starting device, first of all remove the carburetor, then:

Rotate the airflow flap lever so that it is fully closed. In this position, the device is armed.
Turn the carburetor over. Measure the gap between the channel wall and the edge of the throttle valve. In a properly adjusted carburetor, it is in the range of 0.85–0.9 mm. You can use a feeler gauge to check this.
If the clearance is not correct, correct it by bending the throttle lever linkage.

After adjusting this gap, go to gap "A". This is the distance between the damper and the wall:

Close the damper by cocking the trigger.
In order to create rarefied air conditions, push in the stem.
The rod will pull the slot rod along with it, as a result of which a gap appears between the wall and the edge of the damper.
In a properly adjusted starter, gap "A" is in the range of 5–5.4 mm.
If it is not within this range, it must be adjusted. To do this, turn the adjusting screw.

How to adjust idling on a VAZ 2107

Before undertaking the idle speed adjustment, care must be taken that the engine is warmed up to operating temperature, while it must be in good order:

Raise the speed to the maximum frequency. To do this, unscrew the quality screw. The mixture becomes "rich".
Raise the rpm further by turning the mixture amount screw counterclockwise.
Check if the RPM goes up even higher by turning the quality screw in different directions without changing the position of the quantity screw. If the turnover has increased, then repeat the previous two points again;
Having found the required position of the quantity screw, without touching it, use the quality screw to set the speed in the range of 850–900 rpm.

This is a very simple but convenient way to adjust. You can focus on the readings of the electronic tachometer, auditory sensations, as well as on the readings on the dashboard.

To adjust:

Push the choke all the way down.
In this case, the air damper in the secondary chamber will be in a vertical position.
If the damper is not fully open, it must be adjusted.
To do this, loosen the damper rod fixing screw, it will stand upright, then tighten it.

Throttle Actuator Adjustment

This drive must be set up correctly, otherwise the car will have worse speed dynamics. In order to set it up, you will need a partner, an 8 key, a simple screwdriver, a caliper and a flashlight.

How to properly regulate:

First of all, drown the "suction" all the way.
The partner must squeeze the gas to the floor. The throttle valve in this case, if properly adjusted, will rise vertically. Shine a flashlight to make sure.
Let the partner release the gas pedal, at the same time, the damper will close the primary chamber without gaps.
If the damper is not fully opened or closed, then it will be necessary to adjust the length of the actuator rod.
Remove the rod, measure its length. It should be exactly 80 mm. If there is a discrepancy, then tighten the locknuts to set the desired length.

It is worth noting that there are a number of operations with the carburetor, but by following the above steps, you will get rid of most problems with the air-fuel mixture. If you have more serious problems, it would be better to contact a specialist in this matter. As a rule, the implementation of the proposed instructions is enough for a quality adjustment of the carburetor.

Video

Useful tips for adjusting the carburetor below:

In a car, the most important unit is the power unit. However, without a properly adjusted carburetor, its operation is impossible. Even the slightest malfunction of any element in this mechanism can cause a violation of the stable operation of the motor. At the same time, most problems can be fixed independently in the garage.

Carburetor DAAZ 2107

The G7 carburetor, like any other, mixes air and gasoline and supplies the finished mixture to the engine cylinders. To understand the device and the functioning of the carburetor, as well as to identify and eliminate possible malfunctions with it, you need to familiarize yourself with this unit in more detail.

Who produces and on what models VAZ is installed

The DAAZ 2107 carburetor was manufactured at the Dimitrovgrad Automotive Plant and installed on different Zhiguli models, depending on the product modification:

2107–1107010–20 were equipped with engines of the latest versions of the VAZ 2103 and VAZ 2106 with a vacuum corrector;
2107–1107010 were put on "fives" and "sevens" with engines 2103 (2106);
carburetors 2107-1107010-10 were installed on engines 2103 (2106) with a distributor without a vacuum corrector.

Carburetor device

DAAZ 2107 is made of a metal case, which is characterized by increased strength, which minimizes deformation and temperature effects, mechanical damage. Conventionally, the corpus can be divided into three parts:

top - made in the form of a cover with fittings for hoses;
middle - the main one, in which there are two chambers with diffusers, as well as a float chamber;
lower - throttle valves (DZ) are located in it.

The main elements of any carburetor are jets, which are designed to pass fuel and air. They are a part with an external thread and an internal hole of a certain diameter. When the holes are clogged, their throughput decreases, and the proportions in the process of formation of the working mixture are violated. In such a situation, it is necessary to clean the jets.

The jets are not subject to wear, so their service life is unlimited.

The "Seven" carburetor has several systems:

float chamber - maintains fuel at a certain level for stable engine operation at any speed;
the main dosing system (GDS) - operates in all engine operating modes, except for idling (XX), supplying a balanced gasoline-air mixture through emulsion chambers;
system XX - is responsible for the operation of the engine in the absence of load;
start system - provides a confident start of the power plant on a cold one;
econostat, accelerator and secondary chamber: the accelerator pump contributes to the instantaneous supply of fuel during acceleration, since the GDS is unable to provide the required amount of gasoline, and the second chamber and econostat come into operation when the engine develops the most power.

DAAZ carburetor diagram: 1. Accelerator pump screw. 2. Plug. 3. Fuel jet of the transition system of the second chamber of the carburetor. 4. Air jet of the transitional system of the second chamber. 5. Econostat air jet. 6. Econostat fuel jet. 7. Air jet of the main metering system of the second carburetor chamber. 8. Econostat emulsion jet. 9. The diaphragm mechanism of the pneumatic actuator of the throttle valve of the second chamber of the carburetor. 10. Small diffuser. 11. Pneumatic throttle jets of the second chamber of the carburetor. 12. Screw - valve (discharge) of the accelerator pump. 13. Accelerator pump sprayer. 14. Carburetor air damper. 15. Air jet of the main metering system of the first chamber of the carburetor. 16. Damper jet starting device. 17. Diaphragm trigger mechanism. 18. Air jet of the idle system. 19. Fuel jet of the idle system.20. Fuel needle valve.21. Mesh filter carburetor. 22. Fuel fitting. 23. Float. 24. Adjusting screw of the idle system. 25. Fuel jet of the main metering system of the first chamber.26. Screw "quality" of the fuel mixture. 27. Screw "amount" of the fuel mixture. 28. Throttle valve of the first chamber. 29. Heat-insulating spacer. 30. Throttle valve of the second chamber of the carburetor. 31. The diaphragm rod of the throttle valve actuator of the second chamber. 32. Emulsion tube. 33. Fuel jet of the main metering system of the second chamber. 34. Bypass jet of the accelerator pump. 35. The suction valve of the accelerator pump. 36. Accelerator pump drive lever

The principle of operation of the carburetor

The operation of the device can be described as follows:

Fuel from the gas tank is pumped by the gasoline pump into the float chamber through a filter and a valve that determines the level of its filling.
From the float tank, gasoline is fed through jets into the carburetor chambers. Then the fuel passes into the emulsion cavities and tubes, where the working mixture is formed, which is fed into the diffusers by means of atomizers.
After starting the motor, the electromagnetic type valve closes the XX channel.
During operation at XX, fuel is taken from the first chamber and passes through a jet connected to the valve. When gasoline flows through the jet XX and part of the transition system of the primary chamber, a combustible mixture is created that enters the corresponding channel.
At the moment the DZ is slightly opened, the mixture is injected into the carburetor chambers through the transition system.
The mixture from the float tank passes through the econostat and enters the atomizer. When the motor runs at maximum frequency, the accelerator starts to function.
The accelerator valve is unlocked when filling with fuel and closes when the mixture supply stops.

Video: device and operation of the carburetor

DAAZ 2107 carburetor problems

There are many small details in the design of the carburetor, each of which is of great importance because it does a certain job. If at least one of the elements fails, the stable operation of the node is disrupted. Quite often, problems arise when starting a cold engine or at the time of acceleration. The carburetor is considered faulty if the following symptoms appear:

when working at XX, the engine works with dips, i.e., it is unstable;
when trying to overclock, there is some delay;
increased fuel consumption;
Difficulty starting the engine after a long period of inactivity.

Each of these signs indicates the need for repair or adjustment work. Consider the most common malfunctions of the "seven" carburetor.

Pours gasoline

The essence of the problem boils down to the fact that gasoline enters the mixing device in more quantities than necessary, and the check valve does not divert excess fuel into the gas tank. As a result, drops of gasoline appear on the outside of the carburetor. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to clean the fuel jets and their channels.

shoots

If you hear "shots" from the carburetor, the problem is usually due to excessive fuel flow into it. The malfunction manifests itself in the form of sharp twitches during movement. The solution to the problem is flushing the node.

Gasoline is not supplied

The occurrence of a malfunction may be due to clogged jets, a breakdown of the fuel pump, or malfunctions of the gasoline supply hoses. In such a situation, blow out the supply pipe with a compressor and check the fuel pump. If no problems have been identified, you will have to dismantle the assembly and flush.

Second camera not working

Problems with the secondary chamber manifest themselves in the form of a decrease in vehicle dynamics by almost 50%. The malfunction is associated with jamming of the remote sensing, which has to be replaced with a new part.

Accelerator pump not working

If there is a problem with the booster, fuel may not flow or may be delivered in a short and sluggish jet, resulting in delays during acceleration. In the first case, the reason lies in the clogging of the fuel jet of the accelerator pump or the ball sticking to the check valve sleeve. With a poor jet, the ball may hang or the diaphragm may not be tightly connected between the carburetor body and the cover. The way out of the situation is to clean the parts and check their condition.

Engine stalls when pressing on the gas

If the engine starts and runs flawlessly at idle, but stalls when you try to move off, most likely there is an insufficient level of gasoline in the float compartment. As a result, it is only enough to start the power unit, and at the moment the remote sensing is opened, the level becomes too low, which requires its adjustment.

Setting up the carburetor DAAZ 2107

With a trouble-free start of the motor and stable operation in any mode (XX or under load), the device does not need to be adjusted. The need for a procedure arises only with characteristic symptoms that coincide with the signs of malfunctions. K should be started only with full confidence in the smooth operation of the ignition system, adjusted valves, and the absence of problems with the fuel pump. In addition, adjustment work may not lead to the desired results if the device is clearly clogged or leaking. Therefore, before setting up the node, it is necessary to inspect and evaluate its appearance.

To make an adjustment, you will need the following list:

a set of standard keys;
screwdrivers;
pliers;
rag.

XX adjustment

The most significant reason why you have to adjust the idle speed of the carburetor is when the engine is unstable at idle, while the tachometer needle constantly changes its position. As a result, the power unit simply stalls. Armed with a flat screwdriver, proceed to the adjustment:

Video: how to adjust XX on the "classic"

float adjustment

To carry out this procedure, you will need to dismantle the air filter and its housing, as well as cut strips of cardboard with a width of 6.5 and 14 mm, which will be used as a template.

We perform the work in the following sequence:

If the procedure is done properly, the float should have a stroke of 8±0.25 mm.

Video: how to adjust the carburetor float

Adjustment of the starting mechanism and air damper

First you need to prepare a 5 mm template and a piece of wire 0.7 mm thick, after which you can start setting up:

We remove the filter housing and remove dirt from the carburetor, for example, with a rag.
We pull out the suction in the cabin.
With a template or drill, we measure the gap between the wall of the first chamber and the edge of the air damper.
If the parameter differs from the template, unscrew the special plug.
Adjust the screw with a flat screwdriver, setting the desired gap, then screw the plug into place.

Throttle adjustment

DZ is adjusted after removing the carburetor from the engine in the following sequence:

Video: checking and adjusting throttle clearance

Dismantling the carburetor

Sometimes the carburetor needs to be dismantled, for example, for replacement, repair or cleaning. For such work, you need to prepare a set of tools, consisting of open-end wrenches, screwdrivers and pliers. If the damage is minor, then there is no need to remove the device.

For safety reasons, dismantling the carburetor is recommended to be carried out on a cold engine.

Then we perform the following sequence of actions:

In the engine compartment, loosen the clamp on the corrugated pipe and tighten it.
Dismantle the air filter housing.
We unscrew the fasteners of the suction cable sheath on the carburetor and loosen the cable itself with a screwdriver.
We tighten the hose that removes crankcase gases.
We remove the wires of the microswitches of the economizer control system XX.
We pull off the tube from the vacuum ignition timing regulator from the fitting.
Pull the hose off the economizer housing.
We remove the spring.
Loosen the clamps holding the fuel hoses with a flat screwdriver and tighten the latter.
Using a 14 wrench, unscrew the carburetor mounting nuts.
We dismantle the device from the studs.

Video: how to remove the carburetor on the "seven"

We dismantle the cover, the diaphragm with the pusher and the spring.

We remove the return spring from the pneumatic drive lever and the thrust lock, after which we remove it from the DZ drive lever.

We unscrew the fasteners of the pneumatic actuator and remove it.

We separate the two parts of the assembly, for which we unscrew the corresponding mount.

We remove the economizer and the EPHX microswitch, after which we unscrew the adjusting screws for the quality and quantity of the mixture.

We lower the body of the assembly into a container of suitable size with kerosene.

We check the integrity of all components and, if visible flaws are found, we replace them.

We also soak the jets in kerosene or acetone, blow them and the seats in the carburetor with a compressor.

Table: calibration data for DAAZ 2107 jets

To clean the float chamber from contamination, you need to use a medical pear. With its help, they collect the remaining fuel and debris at the bottom. The use of rags is not recommended, as the villi can get into the jets and clog them.

Carburetor cleaning without disassembly

The most common way to remove contaminants inside the product involves disassembling it in parts, which not every motorist can do. There is also a simpler option for cleaning the assembly without disassembly using special aerosols. The most popular are ABRO and Mannol.

Washing is carried out as follows:

Before proceeding with the repair or adjustment of the carburetor, you need to be sure that the problem is in it. In addition, the assembly must be periodically inspected and cleaned of contaminants that form both outside and inside the mechanism, which will help step-by-step instructions.

Good day to all those who came to my blog. Probably everyone knows that domestically produced cars for the most part are equipped with gasoline engines. Which, like other power units for their work, require a metered mixture of fuel and air. That is, it is not easy to mix these two components, but also to maintain the necessary proportions. The carburetor acts as such a cook in the device of a car, it takes care of preparing the air-fuel mixture and evenly distributing it over the cylinders. You can perform the procedure in various ways, so there are various types of carburetors. The cult model of the Togliatti automobile plant VAZ 2107, equipped with a DAAZ 1107010 float carburetor (native engine) and DAAZ 1107010-10 (with a six-wheel motor).

Today, when winter is on the nose, I propose to consider the device of the VAZ 2107 carburetor and find out the most important levers for adjusting it. After all, it is low temperatures that often lead to interruptions in the operation of the device (with our gasoline).

Important elements

Of course, you do not need to know all the technical data of the carburetor, unless of course you are an expert in this field. However, a large number of mechanisms (more than 60 components) in its design will lead even the most experienced driver into a dead end, so you need to get acquainted with its main details. So, the effective operation of the carburetor is ensured by its main functional units:

Dosing system;
Float and mixing chambers;
Float and needle valve;
Throttle and air dampers;
Econostat - an enrichment device located in the float chamber;
Accelerator diaphragm pump with atomizer;
Device for removing gases from crankcases;
Transition chamber systems;
Autonomous idle mechanism with built-in solenoid valve;
Jets - air and fuel.

As you can see, the wolf is not as scary as it is drawn to us! Knowing all these carburetor mechanisms in the eye, and even better their location, we can easily adjust it, but first things first.

How does a carburetor work?

The principle of operation of the "car cook" is as abstruse as its devices, but I will try to explain it to you in general terms. The carburetor begins to function when fuel enters the float chamber, having passed the first level of filtration (grid). The float directly controls the optimal amount of liquid. The feed is stopped by a needle valve, which is activated by a float when it rises.

Further, gasoline enters the first and second chambers, passing through two main jets. At the same time, a stream of air (if necessary, heated) is also directed there. When mixed with fuel, it forms an emulsion, which, in transit through the econostat, enters the atomizers. Those, in turn, direct the consistency to the diffusers. Which complete the preparation of the "dish": they mix gasoline with a powerful air flow and serve it to the center of the mixing chamber. We, pressing the gas pedal, activate the throttle and our mixture enters the cylinders. This is how the VAZ 2107 carburetor works. Moreover, unlike foreign analogues, it is not picky about the quality of gasoline, which significantly increases its efficiency.

Setting up the main mechanisms

Adjusting the carburetor is an important event on which the stable operation of the car and fuel consumption when driving depend. Experts advise to carry it out at least once a year, and with the active use of transport - every six months. In the photo above, the main adjustment screws of the device are indicated, but they are not the only ones that are adjusted in the carburetor.

To get started, follow these three preparatory steps:

Inspect the outside of the unit and clean it.
Pay attention to all the important elements and evaluate the degree of their wear.
Starter, jets, strainers, idle system, float - all these parts must be cleaned and rinsed.

Float chamber and strainer

Manually pump fuel into the float chamber with the fuel pump, making sure the needle valve closes as the level rises. After that, we perform the following steps:

Remove the strainer;
We wash it in a solvent;
Dry with air from the compressor;
We return the part to the carburetor device.

The float chamber is cleaned with a medical pear, after which it is also dried with compressed air. Many use ordinary rags instead of a pear, soaking all the dirt with it. However, the fabric tends to leave behind various threads that will lead to unpleasant consequences.

launch system

The procedure is carried out both on the removed carburetor and on the installed one. In the first variant, when adjusting, pay attention to the gap between the dampers, in the second - to the crankshaft speed. We don't like doing unnecessary things, so let's look at the second way:

Remove the air filter;
Disconnect the suction cable;
Warm up the engine and use a screwdriver to slightly open the damper by a third of its turn;
Bend the rod up to 3300 rpm (±100).
Set on the diaphragm cover 300-400 rpm less than the initial value.

float mechanism

Check its fastening for deformations, if it is found, bend the mechanism to the correct position.
Set a gap of 6-7 mm (bending the bracket) between the float and the cover.
To achieve a gap of 15 mm between the float and the needle seat, perform it by moving it to the side through the valve hole.

Conclusion

We have discussed how to adjust some carburetor components, but I left some of them for the next article. To demonstrate visually the cleaning procedures, the video below will help. That's all for me, see you soon!

Carburetor DAAZ-2107-1107010-20.
Much has been written about carburetors. But sending new readers and car owners to the old issues of the magazine is not always correct (where can you find them!). Therefore, we decided to return to this topic. Today in our workshop - perhaps the most popular Russian car - VAZ-2106. It has an Ozone carburetor model 2107-1107010-20. The owner is annoyed by a defect - difficult starting of a cold engine with a closed air damper. However, taking this opportunity, we decided to carry out a complete disassembly of the carburetor. And although this is usually not required in operation (except for general cleaning), some parts sometimes have to be replaced. And knowing the whole process, it is easy to choose the part you need. So, let's get down to business.


We loosen the clamp and remove the warm air supply hose from the air filter nozzle.		Using a 10 wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the air filter housing cover.

Remove the cover from the filter	Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the filter housing.	Using the “8” head, unscrew 4 M5 nuts securing the air filter housing to the carburetor.

Remove the air filter housing and pressure plate. (The latter often sticks to the housing seal and can later fall and be lost if it is not removed.)	We remove the hose of the small branch of the crankcase ventilation system from the fitting on the carburetor, and then, loosening the clamp, the fuel supply hose ...	... which is conveniently fixed between the branches of the spring holding the hood. Attention! Attempts to remove the hose without loosening the clamp (if, for example, the coupling bolt is not supplied), as a rule, loosen the fitting in the cap, and fuel begins to leak here.

With a short screwdriver, unscrew the screw securing the air damper drive rod.	Having unscrewed the bolt "by 8", fixing the thrust shell ...	filming

With a screwdriver, carefully pry off the plastic tip of the throttle actuator rod and take it to the side.	Disconnect the wire from the idle speed solenoid valve.	We remove the tube that brings the vacuum to the diaphragm of the interrupter-distributor ...

And the lever return spring.	With a "13" wrench, unscrew the 4 nuts securing the carburetor ...	And remove it from the intake manifold studs. Please note: to facilitate this process, a screwdriver (or something similar) cannot be used as a wedge - the seating surfaces can be damaged.

Having finished dismantling, we close the hole in the collector with a rag (so as not to drop anything into it). Moreover, it is better to throw it on top, and not push it inside, otherwise the danger of remembering it after assembly, when trying to start the engine, will increase significantly, but it will be too late.
I wash the carburetor from the outside with a brush, using any liquid that dissolves oily deposits: gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel - but from fire safety requirements, it is better to prefer the last two.
Before proceeding with disassembly, we check the serviceability of the “mechanics” of the trigger and the float shut-off valve, since it is much more difficult to determine the suitability of individual parts of these systems. We do the same with mechanics. Close the choke by pulling the drive lever and holding it in this position. Then, pressing the damper with your finger, we try to open it, overcoming the resistance of the telescopic rod spring (the rod itself should "compress"). If it was not possible to do this or it was possible after applying a significant effort at the initial moment, the thrust must be changed.


It is best to check the tightness of the needle valve with a rubber pear, tightly put on the inlet fitting of the carburetor float chamber, which is on the top cover, that is, "upside down". If the compressed pear is gaining air, the valve is faulty.	Having finished with preliminary troubleshooting, we begin disassembly. Using the "19" wrench, unscrew the plug-holder of the strainer and remove the filter.

By aligning the slot in the two-arm lever with the protrusion on the rod, we remove the telescopic rod.	Having unscrewed 2 screws, we remove the housing of the diaphragm of the starting device and the drive rod. Pay attention to the safety of the rubber sealing ring of the vacuum supply channel (usually it remains on the cover).

Sliding the wire earring from the tongue on the float bracket, remove the locking needle. Now, bringing it to your ear, shake the float. If it's not airtight, you'll hear gasoline sloshing around inside.	Taking the cover off...	... with the key "11" we turn off ...

...and remove the needle valve seat with O-ring.	We remove the return spring of the matching lever of the secondary chamber drive mechanism.	Prying with a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring of the pneumatic line rod and remove it from the lever axis.


We unscrew the two screws securing the throttle body to the carburetor body.	To separate the parts of the carburetor, disconnect the thrust of the throttle opening mechanism.	We remove the heat-insulating gasket from the body.	Having unscrewed the three screws, we remove the diaphragm and the spring of the throttle valve drive mechanism of the secondary chamber. As practice has shown, removing this spring helps to cope with the dips that occur on some cars during acceleration.		With the key "13" we turn off the solenoid valve ...

... and remove the idle fuel jet from the holder.	On the opposite side of the body, we also unscrew the holder of the fuel jet of the transition system of the secondary chamber ...	... and take out the jet from it.	We unscrew the four screws of the cover of the accelerator pump mechanism ...	...and get the "stuffing".	With a correctly sharpened screwdriver with a blade width of at least 7 mm, we unscrew the "column" with a check valve ...

... and take it out together with the accelerator pump nozzle and two copper washers.	With the same screwdriver we unscrew and take out the air jets of the main dosing systems.		Inserting an awl into the holes, we remove brass emulsion tubes from the emulsion wells (absolutely the same and interchangeable for all carburetors of this type). Usually these tubes do not fall out spontaneously. They can also be removed by screwing in a screw of a suitable diameter.	We turn out the fuel jets of the main metering system ...	... and a threaded needle of the drainage channel of the accelerator pump.

The small diffusers of the primary and secondary chambers must first be moved from their place by applying light blows to them, for example, with a screwdriver handle ...	... and then remove from the case.	From the throttle block, unscrewing two screws, we separate the prefix of the idle system ...	...which, with its cylindrical part, is deepened into the bore of the body and is removed with some effort.	Unscrew and remove the quality screw. If there is no rubber o-ring on it, gently pry it off with a thin screwdriver and remove it from the hole in the case.	It is convenient to control the fuel level in the float chamber using a caliper.

We assemble in the reverse order. However, as you may have guessed, it is impossible to do without comments.
Clean gasoline is usually recommended for cleaning the internal cavities and parts of the carburetor. However, it does not dissolve resins and varnish deposits. Solvents are suitable for this purpose - from 645 to 652 or acetone. But remember that strong solvents can damage non-metallic parts (gaskets, diaphragms). The latter must be washed separately and only in gasoline. Despite the obvious benefits of a clean float chamber, the danger of contamination should not be overstated. Small caked particles of sediment on the bottom can accumulate for years without disturbing the operation of the carburetor. Significantly worsen the operation of dosing systems, deposits in the calibration holes of the air jets of the idle system and the main dosing system of the primary chamber are primarily capable of deteriorating. The main air jet and the air jet of the transitional system of the secondary chamber are significantly less clogged, which is explained by the relatively short time spent by the secondary chamber in operation. Jets moistened with gasoline can be cleaned with copper wire or a wooden stick.
Having installed the float in place, it is necessary to adjust its position (and, accordingly, the fuel level in the float chamber). Turn the cover over with the float up and install a gap of 6.5 mm between the gasket plane and the center symmetrically (without visible distortions) of the suspended float. The float tongue should touch the needle ball without sinking it. It is convenient to control the size with a caliper, if necessary, bending the tongue.
The emulsion tubes have four rows of vertical holes: in one plane - four holes on each side, and in the other, perpendicular to the plane - two. When installing, orient them so that the four holes face your camera's output port (they are usually randomly installed). The engine will run more stably.
It is better not to disassemble the diaphragm devices of the carburetor without urgent need. During operation, the diaphragm is pressed in place and a violation of its original position provokes a leak.
When assembling and installing the carburetor, never use sealant! Excess squeezed into the internal cavities will scatter through the channels, blocking the operation of various systems.
As a gasket material between the carburetor and the intake manifold, it is better to use a press span. Paronite often exfoliates, reducing or even blocking the cross section of the channels on the lower part of the throttle block.
Often, carried away by overtightening the nuts, motorists deform the lower mating plane of the carburetor so much that the heat-insulating gasket is crushed. There is a gap in the connector. The air sucked through it leans the mixture, disrupting the normal operation of the carburetor.
After installing the air filter housing, do not forget to attach the crankcase ventilation hoses to it. After all, thanks to it (among other things), the pressure inside the engine is maintained below atmospheric pressure, which reduces the load on the seals and gaskets, preventing them from "sweating". If a significant amount of oil enters the carburetor through it, use one of the "experienced tips" on this topic - there were a lot of them in "Behind the Wheel".
At an air temperature close to zero and high humidity, a "strange" defect sometimes occurs. Suddenly twitching, the car stops. After a five-minute pause, the engine starts as if nothing had happened and you can continue on your way. However, after a few kilometers, everything repeats again. The fact is that in a small diffuser the flow velocity increases, the pressure and temperature fall, and ice forms on the walls, which eventually covers the entire cross section. After the engine stops, it naturally melts (it's warm under the hood!). To avoid this trouble, the car has a heating system for the air entering the carburetor. So check if the corrugated metal-paper hose is in place and if the position of the air filter cover is correct for the season. Remember - winter for a car starts at +5°C.

Adjustment of the starting system of the carburetor

In order to start adjusting the starting system, you must:

remove the air filter;
start the engine;
pull the choke;
open the air damper by a third;
set the revolutions equal to 3200-3600 per minute;
lower the air damper;
set the speed less than the main value to 300.

Idle adjustment

To adjust the idle speed, it is necessary to warm up the VAZ 2107 car. Carburetor repair in this case will involve the use of a quality screw, which must be adjusted accordingly.
At the same time, another screw that regulates the amount cannot be touched yet.

So let's start:

set the quantity screw to 100 rpm (this is a higher indicator than usual);
start the engine;
adjust the speed screw to a normal value.

Carburetor repair

Quite often, adjusting the carburetor does not help its normal operation. And in these cases, you need to disassemble it and check what's wrong.
The VAZ 2107 carburetor, the repair of which is inevitable, involves the following actions:

remove the return spring;
unscrew the screw securing the three-arm lever with a curly screwdriver;
remove the spring bracket (at the same time it is necessary to hold the screw);

then, together with the rod, the lever and spring are removed;
unscrew the screws securing the throttle;
remove the damper body;
unscrew the fuel jet housing using a wide blade screwdriver;
remove the case;
take out the jet;
after that, you need to remove the rubber o-ring from the housing;
rinse the jet and body (use acetone for this);
blow the jet with compressed air (you can use an ordinary pump with a special needle);
change the rubber ring (if it is damaged).

Here you can take a break, carefully inspect the carburetor. Repair of the VAZ 2107 does not like haste.
It is desirable to carry out everything slowly, concentrating on each stage of work.
This video will help you see everything with your own eyes.

We continue:

remove the thermal insulation;
turn off the valve of the accelerator pump;
the valve is taken out together with the atomizer and metal gaskets of the sealing type.

It is believed that the system is easiest for a VAZ 2107 car. Do-it-yourself carburetor repair, in this case, will take place without any special difficulties.
The main thing is to clearly follow the instructions:

all removed parts, including the sprayer, are washed in acetone (clean gasoline can also be used);
blow the parts with compressed air;
unscrew the air type jets.

In this photo, everything is clearly visible:

remove the emulsion tubes of the dosing system (you can use a tap if they do not fall out by themselves);
unscrew the fuel jets together with the body;
separate the fuel jets from the body;
unscrew the adjusting screw in the accelerator pump;
remove the diaphragm and clean;
inspect and tubes that can be deformed (straightening with a wooden mallet will help);
reassemble everything in reverse order.

Following this step-by-step instruction, you can repair the carburetor yourself. The price for these services from the master is not cheap. Therefore, adjusting and repairing the carburetor on your own has become relevant in our time.

There are several ways to do this, depending on the type of carburetor you are using. They are membrane, float, needle. As for the carburetors of VAZ 2107 cars, they are of the float type.

If you want to increase the life of the motor, as well as its efficiency, then you should pay due attention to the condition and adjustment of such an aggregate unit as a carburetor.

Carburetor modification

The first thing you have to do before you start adjusting the carburetor on your car is to find out which model is on it:

The presence of a vacuum ignition corrector indicates that you have a VAZ 2103/2106 engine and a modification carburetor 2107-1107010-20.
If you have an engine from the “six”, but there is no corrector, then you have a modification carburetor 2107-1107010-10.

Malfunction symptoms

The engine is hard to start, it can “sneeze” for a long time.
While pressing the gas, jerks, failures in the operation of the engine may be observed, the car may twitch.
Heavy and long acceleration, no matter how you put pressure on the gas.
Abnormal "gluttony" of the engine ().

In case you started to observe one or more of the signs from this list, then you should start adjusting the carburetor.

You will get the best quality of adjustment if you remove the carburetor from the car. During operation, do not use woolen, fleecy cloth and various wires to clean the jets.

Float system adjustment

After you've removed the carburetor, it's best to adjust the float system first.

If you notice that your stroke is not 6.5 mm, then you should bend the needle valve tab a little to get the desired value.

Then adjust the opening level of the needle valve, it is he who is responsible for passing fuel into the chamber. When there is enough gasoline in the chamber, the float rises, reducing the flow of gasoline, but if you press the gas sharply, it will open, the fuel will begin to be consumed more intensively, and the float will lower, opening the valve.

After you carry out the steps described above, the float will have a stroke of about 8 mm.

Trigger Adjustment

A mandatory step in setting up the carburetor is adjusting the starting device, because it starts a cold engine with its help. At the same time, several times more gasoline can be supplied to the air-fuel mixture than in the operating mode.

The frequency of the starting device on the VAZ 2107 carburetor is 1500 rpm, which corresponds to the engine idling.

Below is a diagram of the starter:

The principle of operation of the trigger is such that when you pull the choke, you activate it, at the same time:

the cable pulls the three-arm lever and, turning it counterclockwise, cocks it;
the telescopic rod also moves, rotating the air channel damper by means of a lever;
the other arm of the three-arm lever acts on the axis of the throttle valve of the first chamber;
the air damper is in the closed position, and the throttle is slightly ajar and has a starting gap.

Having decided to adjust the starting device, first of all remove the carburetor, then:

Rotate the airflow flap lever so that it is fully closed. In this position, the device is armed.
Turn the carburetor over. Measure the gap between the channel wall and the edge of the throttle valve. In a properly adjusted carburetor, it is in the range of 0.85–0.9 mm. You can use a feeler gauge to check this.
If the clearance is not correct, correct it by bending the throttle lever linkage.

After adjusting this gap, go to gap "A". This is the distance between the damper and the wall:

Close the damper by cocking the trigger.
In order to create rarefied air conditions, push in the stem.
The rod will pull the slot rod along with it, as a result of which a gap appears between the wall and the edge of the damper.
In a properly adjusted starter, gap "A" is in the range of 5–5.4 mm.
If it is not within this range, it must be adjusted. To do this, turn the adjusting screw.

How to adjust idling on a VAZ 2107

Before undertaking the idle speed adjustment, care must be taken that the engine is warmed up to operating temperature, while it must be in good order:

Raise the speed to the maximum frequency. To do this, unscrew the quality screw. The mixture becomes "rich".
Raise the rpm further by turning the mixture amount screw counterclockwise.
Check if the RPM goes up even higher by turning the quality screw in different directions without changing the position of the quantity screw. If the turnover has increased, then repeat the previous two points again;
Having found the required position of the quantity screw, without touching it, use the quality screw to set the speed in the range of 850–900 rpm.

This is a very simple but convenient way to adjust. You can focus on the readings of the electronic tachometer, auditory sensations, as well as on the readings on the dashboard.

To adjust:

Push the choke all the way down.
In this case, the air damper in the secondary chamber will be in the vertical position.
If the damper is not fully open, it must be adjusted.
To do this, loosen the damper rod fixing screw, it will stand upright, then tighten it.

Throttle Actuator Adjustment

This drive must be set up correctly, otherwise the car will have worse speed dynamics. In order to set it up, you will need a partner, an 8 key, a simple screwdriver, a caliper and a flashlight.

How to properly regulate:

First of all, drown the "suction" all the way.
The partner must squeeze the gas to the floor. The throttle valve in this case, if properly adjusted, will rise vertically. Shine a flashlight to make sure.
Let the partner release the gas pedal, at the same time, the damper will close the primary chamber without gaps.
If the damper is not fully opened or closed, then it will be necessary to adjust the length of the actuator rod.
Remove the rod, measure its length. It should be exactly 80 mm. If there is a discrepancy, then tighten the locknuts to set the desired length.

Video

Useful tips for adjusting the carburetor below:

One of the carburetors installed on VAZ 2105-2107 cars produced by the Soviet, and later Russian auto industry, is Ozone DAAZ 2107-1107010-20. Its design is quite simple, so any garage master can repair and configure this device. Let's try and we understand its device.

Features of the device DAAZ 2107

DAAZ 2107 is a 2-chamber carburetor with a mechanical drive of the primary chamber damper from the gas pedal.

The carburetor consists of:

dosing systems (2pcs);
transitional system of the secondary mixing chamber;
autonomous idling system;
pneumatic econostat;
launch devices;
accelerator pump;
spool-type crankcase ventilation systems.

Maintenance and adjustment DAAZ 2107

Basic maintenance and adjustment of the carburetor:

inspection for visible defects;
surface cleaning and washing;
float chamber washing;
cleaning the mesh filter;
cleaning (purging) or replacing jets;
float chamber adjustment;
idle adjustment.

If you have never encountered such a task, it is better to entrust it to a specialist, but if you have at least some idea of \u200b\u200bthe principle of operation of a carburetor, you can handle it yourself.

1. Let's start with the simplest - washing and cleaning. To do this, remove the carburetor from the engine, and clean it from the outside.

Carburetor daaz 2107 1107010 20 device

2. For this, it is better to buy a special aerosol with a straw. You can buy it at any auto shop. The average price is a little over 100 rubles.

4. Visually inspect the float mounting bracket and check its progress.

5. We carry out the adjustment of the float chamber. We take a cover with a float and hang it strictly vertically.

6. We measure the distance from the cover to the side surface of the float. It should be 6-7 mm.

7. If there is no suitable measuring device, use a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, inserting it between the cover and the float. If the distance is more or less than the specified one, we achieve the desired value by bending the bracket in one direction or another.

8. Now, in a vertical position, we move the float to the side as far as it will go. The distance between its surface and the cover should be 15 mm. If the distance does not correspond to this value, bend or bend the float tongue.

9. After adjustment, do not put the cover back in place.

10. Let's move on to the strainer.

11. Unscrew the cork and remove it. We rinse with an aerosol and blow through with a compressor or pump. Put the filter back.

12. Now carefully unscrew the air and fuel jets.

13. We wash them and blow them, after which, without confusing them, we put them in their places.

14. Now we assemble the carburetor and install it on the engine. All other work will be done with the engine running.

15. To adjust the idle speed, we need an electronic tachometer and a slotted screwdriver.

16. Using a screwdriver, tighten the screws for adjusting the quality and quantity of fuel until it stops. After that, the quality screw is released by 2-3 turns, the quantity - by 3-4.

17. We start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature. We turn off, connect the tachometer, as indicated in the photo, and start again.

18. Turn the quality screw counterclockwise, achieving maximum speed. By turning the quantity screw in the same direction, we increase the speed by another 80-100 units.

19. Now we release the quality screw (counterclockwise), and check if these revolutions are the maximum for the amount we have set by turning it left and right.

21. For the most accurate setting of idling, the use of special equipment, such as a CO 2 and CH analyzer, is required. It is possible to carry out such adjustment work only in a specialized service.