The better to cover the arches of a car. Anti-corrosion treatment

The anti-corrosion compounds and noise-insulating mastics applied at the manufacturing plants protect the wheel arches, trunk, engine compartment and other surfaces of the car, primarily from mechanical damage. To maintain an attractive appearance of the car and increase the resistance of its individual elements to rust, an independent anti-corrosion treatment is carried out.

In the photo - treatment of the bottom with anticorrosive

What to process?

Modern manufacturers offer a huge variety of materials that differ in composition, purpose and application features:

Special compositions for the bottom;
mastics;
anti-gravel coatings;
varnishes;
enamels;
preservatives for hidden cavities;
soils.

Important: no processing can restore a completely rotten metal frame! Make sure that the car is at least in a satisfactory condition even before purchasing the necessary materials.

We process the bottom with anticorrosive

This category of materials includes mastics, as well as special compositions for the bottom of a car, containing aluminum (crushed to a powder state) and corrosion inhibitors (retarders). Another useful function of bottom mastics is the ability to improve the vibroacoustic parameters of the body. In this regard, of great interest are inexpensive domestic bituminous mastics filled with crumb rubber, which makes the “lower armor” of the machine much thicker.

Before starting work, make sure that the bottom is 100% lit and that it is freely accessible. After that, treat the entire surface with neat, even layers, including bolted joints, ball joints, technical seams, suspension parts.

We process wheel arches with anticorrosive

A feature of the arches is that their surface is much larger than the bottom, suffers from abrasive wear due to snow, ice, small stones, sand, dirt, which continuously fall from the spinning wheels directly onto the arches. The problem can be effectively solved by using a liquid locker - a durable material applied to the surface in two or three layers.

Very often, a liquid locker turns out to be a priority option compared to installing special plastic protections (“”). In addition, wheel arches can also be treated with bottom compounds (in 2 layers), using a wide brush for this.

We treat hidden cavities with anticorrosive

Almost every car has a number of hidden cavities, access to which is possible only through technological openings: floor reinforcements, racks, spars.

All these places can be treated with the help of preservatives for hard-to-reach cavities - liquid low-viscosity materials containing corrosion inhibitors in their composition. The most popular among Russian car owners is the domestic Movil composition. By consistency, all preservatives resemble machine oil and, after application, form a half-dried film on the treated surfaces. Due to their consistency, such products not only fill all joints, but also effectively displace moisture from the surface of metal parts. Rust Stop has the highest hygroscopicity.

Preparations for anti-corrosion treatment are sold in any packaging, but the most popular option is still aerosols.

We process other body elements with anticorrosive

The use of special compounds is required by such car body elements as the hood, fenders, and the inner surface of the trunk. Rubber-bitumen or bitumen-rubber mastic is suitable for them, which reliably protects against gravel impacts and does not lose its properties even at very low temperatures (up to -600C). Dinitrol, Run Way.

Each surface treatment has its own characteristics. So, when working with the trunk, for example, it should be borne in mind that the protective compound on the cross member of the rear window frame is applied only from the inside.

How to apply anti-corrosion coating: a universal step-by-step guide

1. The first stage is preparing the car for anti-corrosion treatment. To do this, you need to remove everything that may interfere with comfortable work with the outer surface of the body (noise insulation, rubber mat, insulation, etc.), cover the pedals and the floor with a newspaper.

2. . It is important to clean the processed elements from dirt as thoroughly as possible, otherwise the anti-corrosion coatings simply will not be able to fix on them with high quality.

3. Drying is a mandatory operation performed by blowing with warm compressed air immediately after washing. On wet surfaces, none of the protective compounds is able to gain a foothold.

4. Degreasing surfaces. This procedure is recommended to be performed using special formulations immediately before applying the substance.

5. Applying a protective agent. Easily accessible places, such as arches, the bottom, are processed manually using a spatula, brush, rollers and other similar devices. The number of coats and the temperature at which application is allowed are usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging of the anti-corrosion agent. Work with hidden cavities is carried out using tools such as an airbrush or a spray can with a protective composition.

Processed the arch of the VAZ 2114. Photo - the owner from Drive2.ru

Before applying some materials, for example, domestic mastics based on bitumen and rubber, the corresponding surface must also be additionally primed.

After carrying out all the manipulations, it is advisable not to use the machine for the next 24 hours, so that the coating seizes properly.

How often should a protective compound be applied?

The service life of a layer of anti-corrosion material directly depends on its quality, but, on average, it is 1-3 years. If the car has been in an accident, the body has recently been repaired, or some of its parts have been replaced, it is also recommended to carry out anti-corrosion treatment.

How soon the process is to be repeated depends on how well the processing was performed, what materials were used, whether all the rules and dosages were followed according to the instructions.

Most of the products are non-toxic, do not emit fumes harmful to the body, however, when working with them, you still need to take precautions and reliably protect the mucous membranes from the effects of the chemical.

How much does anticorrosive treatment cost?

In specialized technical centers, the price of applying a special composition, as a rule, is within 5,000 rubles. However, it can be higher, for example, if complex processing of all elements is required and expensive protective equipment of European or American production will be used.

You can save a lot by completing all the relevant procedures on your own - fortunately, they do not present any particular difficulty for motorists. In this case, all costs will be associated with the purchase of anti-corrosion compounds and tools for work, which will cost at least 2 times cheaper than at service stations.

Factory mastics, which are applied to the bottom and wheel arches to absorb road noise, slightly protect the metal from adverse effects. In addition, the composition is usually applied before painting, after covering all the studs and threaded holes with special stickers. During assembly, they are all removed, and the sections of the bottom are exposed, and the metal becomes vulnerable to mechanical stress. In this regard, the best anticorrosive is the one that you make yourself.

How to prepare the car?

Protecting the bottom of the car against corrosion plays a particularly important role in winter. Severe weather conditions and the presence of salt with chemicals on the roads are sure to remind of themselves with the onset of spring. It is necessary not only to clean off the rust from the bottom of the car, but sometimes to boil certain areas.

Before applying anti-corrosion protection to the bottom of the car, it is necessary to clean off the rust. You should start with the nearest car wash, where your car will be washed well. Then the transport should be driven into the garage or left in the yard if you plan to work on the street. In any case, you will need a flyover, pit or lift.

To clean corrosion, you will need brushes of different diameters, a grinder or a simple drill. First you need to dismantle the fender liner, as rust often begins to form on the spars.

After a major cleaning, before applying the anticorrosive with your own hands, the bottom must be treated with a rust converter. It is better to buy compounds based on zinc. After covering all surfaces under the car with this product, leave everything for several hours, and preferably for a day. After that, you need to start mixing the anticorrosive.

What is required for work?

To protect the bottom of the car from corrosion with anticorrosive, you can use various preservatives for hidden cavities, anti-gravel coatings, compounds for the bottom, materials for arches and internal parts of the wings. All of them are needed to prevent premature rust formation.

For the bottom

The price of anticorrosive for the bottom of the car is not very high, but these compounds form an elastic, high-strength and thick enough film to protect surfaces from negative influences. Apply materials to a cleaned and pre-primed surface. Anticorrosive contains special fillers, for example, the smallest aluminum powder. Also in the composition there are always corrosion inhibitors that slow down its formation.

At home, anticorrosive agents can be applied with an ordinary brush, and as for domestically produced materials, bituminous mastics with rubber crumb are the most affordable and common.

Another task that mastic copes with is to increase the vibroacoustic characteristics of the body. That's what rubber crumb is for.

Special anti-corrosion compounds for arches have the same properties as the above materials, but there is one feature. Arches have less protection against abrasive wear than the bottom. They are constantly exposed to snow, wet mud, sand, ice and stones that fly out of the wheels and hit the surfaces of the arches. If you do not protect them, corrosion will inevitably begin to form in a few years, even on a new car.

You can put plastic fender liner in the wheel arches that will solve the problem, but you can also purchase a special Liquid Locker, which is a high-strength elastic material. When applied to the surface of the arches, a layer is formed that protects the metal from abrasive wear.

If desired, you can apply anticorrosive for the bottom with your own hands on the inner parts of the wheel arches, but do it in two layers. Like bottom compounds, corrosion inhibitors are present in arched materials.

For hidden cavities

In any car there are numerous hidden cavities:

• racks;
• thresholds;
• spars;
• trunk amplifiers;
• floor amplifiers.

They can only be accessed through special technological openings. So-called cavity preservatives are low-viscosity liquid materials, similar to motor oil, containing corrosion inhibitors. They form a semi-drying film on the walls of cavities, have a unique penetrating ability and are able to displace moisture from metal surfaces.

The most famous domestic cavity preservative is Movil. It has been produced for several decades and still remains relevant. Non-environmentally friendly composition provides reliable anti-corrosion protection of the bottom of the machine.

We also do not recommend buying products from Waxoil, as it has only 13 percent solids, and the remaining 87 are solvents. The absence of odor indicates a high degree of cleaning of solvents, but this is not the most important thing if you want to make your own anti-corrosion bottoms.
There is also a composition of the Rust Stop brand, which is based on mineral oil. It is very hygroscopic, so it is better to treat hidden cavities with it at least once every two years, otherwise you will get the opposite effect: excess moisture will stimulate the development of rust.

How to apply anticorrosive?

Processing wheel arches and the bottom of a car with anticorrosive on your own is a fairly common service in specialized service centers, but you can handle it yourself with the help of our instructions. It is necessary to prepare for work and process the bottom on a viewing hole or a lift.

To begin with, the fender liner is removed and hidden surfaces are processed:

• crossbars;
• thresholds;
• internal cavities of spars;
• cavities in brackets;
• amplifiers, etc.

All welds must be carefully processed. When spraying anticorrosive, lay it in an even layer on the existing coating.

When processing the engine compartment or hood, there are certain subtleties. Do not allow the product to come into contact with the generator, drive belts and radiator cells. The composition will cause belt slippage, deterioration of engine cooling or damage to the battery charging unit.

Under the hood, you need to process all the welds, and also do not forget to cover the area under the battery and the surfaces around the headlights. Pay special attention to the following details and elements in the engine compartment:

• front spars;
• suspension amplifiers;
• clutch cylinder;
• motor shield;
• place of attachment of the brake booster;
• all fasteners.

It is important to process the entire hood cover along the welds and inside the amplifiers.

After that, you can go to the luggage compartment. Here you need to concentrate on the welds, and to get to hard-to-reach places, use various nozzles. Apply the material in a thin layer to the floor of the luggage compartment and be sure to coat the rear side of the rear lights to prevent oxidation of the contacts.

Before processing the interior, you need to carefully inspect all the places where you plan to apply the composition. Initially, it is necessary to provide convenient access to all surfaces so that you do not have to stop during the work. Pay special attention to box-shaped elements that are subject to high loads - the attachment points of the brackets and seat crossbars. It is better to process them from the inside too, using technological holes.

Then you can proceed to the processing of the doorway along all the seams and seals from below. Provide access to surfaces in advance by removing the sill trim. You will see special technological holes through which you can fill hidden cavities. Be careful when spraying anticorrosive with your own hands. Do not spray the composition so as not to stain the interior - it will be very difficult to wash.

When processing doors, pay special attention to the mechanisms that are hidden in the door cavities. In general, do-it-yourself modern compositions for anticorrosive bottoms of cars will not harm electrical contacts. You can spoil something only mechanically, by introducing a nozzle into one or another hidden cavity. If the inner parts of the door are overloaded with additional elements, you can use the technological holes in the lower part.

The main enemy of the car body is metal corrosion. From this article you will learn what materials are used in the anti-corrosion treatment of a car, how to do it yourself and when to do it.

Why should you do it?

To keep the car resistant to rust, it is necessary to periodically do anti-corrosion treatment. Factory anti-noise mastics covering the bottom and wheel arches only protect the metal from mechanical stress. In addition, the composition is applied before painting, having previously covered numerous holes with technological stickers. When assembling the car, they are removed, simultaneously exposing sections of the bottom. In this case, after purchasing the machine, it is useful to check the condition of the coating.

The frequency and volume of treatment depend on the operating conditions of the car, the completeness of the previous anti-corrosion protection, what preparations were used. In any case, it is recommended to conduct an audit every 2-3 years for a preventive examination and elimination of minor damage.

For new cars, anti-corrosion treatment is not required in the first three to four years. There is no need to "spill" the thresholds of a new car. An additional anticorrosive agent imposed by a dealer or made voluntarily is nothing more than reinsurance. As well as annual preventive maintenance. Treatment of hidden cavities should be carried out no more than once every three years.

What materials are needed?

To protect against corrosion (not counting primers, varnishes and enamels), the following are used: anti-gravel coatings, preservatives for hidden cavities, compounds for the bottom, materials for the inner surfaces of the wings and wheel arches. Their purpose is to prevent premature corrosion on the metal parts of the body.

For the bottom of the car

They form a strong, elastic and sufficiently thick protective film on the bottom of the machine. These materials are applied to a clean or primed metal surface. The composition of these materials necessarily includes inhibitors (retarders) of corrosion. In garage conditions, they are applied to metal with a simple brush. Among domestic materials, the most accessible composition is bituminous mastic filled with crumb rubber.

Another function of mastic is to improve the acoustic properties of the body as an alternative to soundproofing the car. To this end, crumb rubber is added to it, which makes the "armor" thicker and noise is reduced.

For wheel arches

They practically have the same properties as the materials for the bottom, with some exceptions. The fact is that the surface of the wheel arches is more susceptible to abrasive wear. Streams of wet mud, snow, ice, sand and stones, falling off the rotating wheels, constantly bombard the surfaces of the wheel arches. If they are not properly protected, corrosion will quickly take over.

If you put plastic shields (“fender fenders”) in the wheel arches, then the problem is practically solved. There is a so-called liquid locker - durable elastic material. A thick layer of this material applied to the surface of the wheel arches will reliably protect them from abrasive wear. In some cases, applying a "liquid locker" may be preferable to installing plastic fender liner.

Wheel arches can be treated with underbody compound if applied in two coats. If you do it with your own hands, then the material can be applied with a brush.

For hidden cavities

The car has many hidden cavities. These are thresholds, racks, spars, floor amplifiers, trunk lid amplifiers. Access to them is possible only through special technological openings.

Cavity preservatives are liquid, low-viscosity materials (similar to engine oil in consistency) that contain corrosion inhibitors. They form a semi-drying film on the walls of hidden cavities. They have a high penetrating ability - they are guaranteed to get into all the cracks and joints. Another important property is they are able to displace water from the surface of the metal.

The most famous auto cavity preservative is Movil. It has been produced for the fourth decade and has not lost its relevance. This non-environmentally friendly compound still shows the best protection. You can buy in any packaging, including aerosol.

It is not recommended to buy Waxoil brand preparations, because it contains only 13% of dry residue, everything else is a solvent. By the way, the absence of odor indicates a high degree of purification of solvents, and not good anti-corrosion properties.

Another composition of Rust Stop, made on the basis of mineral oil, has a high hygroscopicity (the property does not let water through). Therefore, the treatment of hidden cavities with this composition (or used engine oil with the same properties) must be repeated at least once every two years. Otherwise, instead of protection, the effect will be the opposite: excess moisture will contribute to corrosion.

How to do it yourself - the main steps

Washing. First you need to clean the treated areas from dirt. This must be done carefully, because. anti-corrosion materials will not hold tightly and will "fly off" after a while. For example, if you are going to process the bottom of the car, then you need to wash it from dirt with soapy water. Ideally, with a Karcher-type preparation or a minisink.

Drying. After washing, it is necessary to dry the areas to be treated; not a single compound will hold on the "wet". You can speed up this process with a hair dryer. If you do it “in good conscience”, then you need to treat all places with white spirit or an ordinary solvent. Remember, the better you wash and dry, the longer the applied compositions will last.

Also, a protective suit for anti-corrosion treatment of a car or elementary safety equipment - gloves, a hat - will not interfere.

Application of anti-corrosion materials in hidden cavities (thresholds, wheel arches) occur with the help of air spraying - an airbrush (if you have special equipment) or from a can (if you do it yourself). The bottom of the car and other easily accessible places are treated with rollers or a paint brush (it is desirable to have several different sizes) - the preparation is applied manually. Apply in 3-4 layers at a temperature not lower than +15 C with intermediate drying of the layers (at least 30-60 minutes). Then leave to dry for at least a day.

It should be said that domestic bitumen-rubber mastic, in my experience, is of little use for application to pure metal. It flakes off and exposes the rusty iron it's supposed to protect. Therefore, it must be applied on a pre-primed surface. For the bottom of the car, a rubber mixture in a jar with crumb rubber is suitable. It not only protects the metal, but also works as soundproofing. For wheel arches, it is more convenient to buy anti-gravel in aerosol cans. It is easier to apply, and the time to complete drying is no more than 2-3 hours.

Internal cavities, for example, thresholds, spars and racks, must be treated with Movil-type preservatives. We do it as follows: apply mastic on the bottom (it is cheaper in a jar), and after 2-3 hours - anti-gravel in cylinders. The effect is super!

With used models, everything is clear - they are either already exposed to corrosion, or will soon be covered with red spots. But even new vehicles are at risk. Timely treatment of the car body from corrosion outside and inside with your own hands can save you from this trouble.

Proper and complete protection of metal from destruction

The process is quite simple, does not require special skills and the use of special tools. Each motorist will be able to organize protection for his car from corrosion. There will be cost savings, since in any service station they require to pay a considerable amount for this service.

Owners of new cars should not relax. Although each manufacturer carries out body processing, additional protection will not be superfluous.

No do-it-yourself treatment can last forever and consistently provide a high level of corrosion protection. How long it will last on the car body depends on the quality of the materials used. Means of dubious quality will have to be replaced after a year, and high-quality corrosion protection can last up to three years.

Modern ones do not contain toxic components, so nothing threatens the human body in the process of work. Still, you should not forget about security measures and elementary personal protective equipment will not interfere.

Composite processing steps

In order for the car to be reliably protected and after some time you do not have to see rust in the most unexpected places, you need to carefully process the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe car body and not miss a single hidden detail.

1. The bottom must be processed twice with your own hands, paying special attention to the wheel arches.
2. All hidden cavities are covered with a special liquid agent that envelops the metal and enters all the cracks. These areas include thresholds, where rust can be found more often than usual.
3. Welds and joints at the bends are carefully smeared.
4. The inner surfaces of the covers on the hood and trunk also need to be carefully processed.

Partial processing is possible, although not desirable. It is difficult to predict where in the car you will soon see rust. And full protection still acts as a guarantor of the absence of corrosion damage to the metal.

Regardless of the means used and the place on which protection will be applied (thresholds, bottom, arches or trunk lid), it is worth adhering to a certain order in your actions:

1. Thoroughly wash the area of ​​the car to which the anti-corrosion agent will be applied. Especially if it is the bottom, the largest amount of dirt sticks to it. All of it needs to be removed, since protective ones stick to clean metal.
2. After washing, drying and degreasing of the surface follows, whether it be the bottom or thresholds. Anti-corrosion agents do not stick to wet surfaces.
3. We put on protective gear. Before that, carefully read the instructions and features of use. We act in accordance with the recommendations and rules indicated by the manufacturer. It is convenient to process the bottom with a brush, roller or spatula, but the thresholds cannot be processed in this way. It will be more convenient to work with a spray can, spray gun or use a liquid agent.

We process the bottom

A modern car owner can easily decide how to handle the bottom of the car with his own hands. In free sale there is anti-corrosion autochemistry, which protects exactly the bottom of the car. When applied, such products form a film on the surface. It is strong, but elastic, thick and reliable. The composition of such a substance should include the following components:

• aluminum in the form of fine powder;
• corrosion retarders, or inhibitors.

A worthy alternative to such anti-corrosion agents is bituminous mastic. This is a domestic inexpensive material that has long been used to process the bottom of cars. The composition of such auto chemicals contains rubber crumb, which makes the protective coating thicker and stronger. In this way, you can reduce the vibration of the body and increase sound insulation.

In order for the bottom to be reliably protected from corrosion, the surface must first be cleaned or coated with a primer before applying auto chemical goods. You can apply an anti-corrosion agent with a regular brush, as is done in a garage. In three or even four layers it is necessary to apply a protective layer. Each time you need to wait until the material is completely dry.

Processing the wheel arches

Chemical means for protecting a car from corrosion in the area of ​​​​wheel arches are similar in composition to those described in the previous section. Yet there are some exceptions. Nevertheless, in this area the machine is most susceptible to corrosion and wear occurs faster. Such processes are facilitated by: wet mud, exposure to snow, ice, stones and sand. All this, flying out from under the wheels, falls on the arches.

A new tool has appeared on the market for protective auto chemicals, which is called a liquid locker. This material differs from all others in increased strength and good elasticity. If you apply it in a thick layer, they will be reliably protected not only from corrosion, but also from wear and even minor mechanical damage. Such protection can even surpass the effectiveness of installing plastic fender liner.

Alternatively, you can use the product that was used to process the bottom, but it will have to be applied in two layers.

Working on hidden places

The body structure in any car provides for the presence of a large number of places hidden from the user's eyes. That's just the water there perfectly passes and entails rust. So a completely logical question arises for car owners: how to process the thresholds of the car from the outside with their own hands, as well as racks, reinforcement elements and spars. This situation is further complicated by the fact that some areas of the body can only be reached through small openings. You can’t anoint much with a brush, so you need to choose liquid products.

Similar auto chemicals are available in the assortment of many stores. Do-it-yourself processing of such hard-to-reach places of the car is done with liquid preservatives, which in their appearance resemble motor oil. They contain corrosion inhibitors. When applied to thresholds and other hidden places of the car, such substances turn into a film that does not completely dry out. Such preservatives not only penetrate into all parts of the body, but also displace water droplets.

The most famous of all the preservatives that can be used to treat hidden parts of the body is the domestic product Movil. Although its composition cannot be called the most environmentally friendly, but the level of protection is at its best. "Movil" is available in various packaging, including in the form of a spray.

But the Waxoil brand is not worthy of attention, since its preservatives for the most part consist of solvents. Controversial reviews are specific to the Rust Stop product. It contains mineral oil, and among the characteristics in the first place is hygroscopicity. When using this product, the treatment must be repeated every two years. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate in excess and rust can be seen much earlier than we would like. With such tools, do-it-yourself anti-corrosion treatment of the car body will be short-lived.

If corrosion spots are found during the washing process, they must be removed. To do this, there is a wide range of tools. You don’t have to rack your brains and think about how to treat rust on a car body. A separate article is devoted to the choice of this autochemistry, which every visitor to the site can read. Anti-corrosion treatment can be continued only after the complete neutralization of rust.