What is firing a clutch. Why the clutch burns and how to extend its life

Having purchased or planning to purchase a personal car, we diligently learn the rules of the road in order to get a driver's license and become a full-fledged driver, as we think. At the same time, not everyone and not always remember the rules for operating a car, in particular, its main component - the chassis.

Meanwhile, this area is fraught with many mysteries and secrets. For example, how not to burn the clutch, starting off and making one or another maneuver on the road.
First of all, let's understand at least superficially what it is and what functions this unit performs on a car.

What is clutch

The clutch serves to disconnect the crankshaft and gearbox for a short time, as well as for their subsequent connection. Such an operation is necessary when starting the car from a stop and for changing speed on the go.
The most common on cars and in most trucks is a single-plate friction type clutch.

It consists directly of the clutch mechanism and the shutdown drive.

Critical disc wear is easy to determine when driving in fourth gear: if the engine roared when you press the gas pedal intensively, but the car did not run faster, the disc must be changed. This may be accompanied by the smell of "burning" pads.

The greatest and most frequent threat to the lining on the clutch disc from inexperienced motorists is at the moment of starting the car. Therefore, we will consider this process in detail.

How to move off correctly

So, your engine is running and running in neutral. You depress the clutch pedal and engage first gear. Now you need to smoothly connect the crankshaft to the gearbox. This means that you need to press the driven disk against the flywheel rotating at a speed of 20-25 revolutions per second. So that the car does not “jump” and the engine does not suddenly stall, we will do this operation in three stages.

• Stage 1. Release the clutch pedal slightly. The pressure plate springs will bring the driven plate to light contact with the flywheel - your car will move and slowly begin to crawl.
• Stage 2. Hold the pedal in this position for two or three seconds. The speeds of rotation of the flywheel and disk gradually equalize - your car accelerates.
• Stage 3. The car drives confidently on the road - the torque is 100% transmitted to the gearbox. Release the pedal and take your foot off the pedal. Further semi-engaged clutch will burn discs.

At the traffic light

According to numerous testimonies of novice drivers, some driving instructors teach to wait for a green traffic light with the clutch depressed and first gear engaged. It would seem that the disks are not in contact, there are no threats to burning linings.

But in this case, the release bearing wears out. In the end, this negatively affects the engine in general. Therefore - put in neutral and release the clutch pedal.

In a traffic jam

Perhaps the biggest threat to traction comes from traffic. Some drivers do not take their foot off the clutch pedal for a long time, turning it on and off, leaving the engine on in first gear.

The driven disk almost constantly rubs against the flywheel disk, moreover, asynchronously. As a result, additional heating occurs, which contributes to its more intense abrasion.

Try to move in traffic jams, overcoming short distances in stages, turning off the gear in between and releasing the clutch.

On the way down

On steep descents, you can not turn off the gear. It is recommended to descend at first speed with braking, using the foot brake, and be ready, in extreme cases, to apply the handbrake. There is no need to use the clutch pedal. Moreover, it may pose a danger of stopping the engine.

Driving in extreme conditions

Truly “kills” the clutch riding with slippage, which often happens in unforeseen, extraordinary conditions. When it happens to get out of a puddle or a snowdrift, we are forced to force the engine, giving it high speed and abruptly engage the clutch.

In this situation, the pads on the disk not only burn fatally. Such harsh operating conditions threaten more serious breakdowns, including other vehicle components. Therefore, if possible, ask to take you in tow. Don't burn the clutch.

Why is it on fire

It is at the moment of incomplete contact with each other of the disks rotating at different speeds that the overlays burn out. Whenever we work the clutch incorrectly, the gap gradually increases, and in the future the release becomes incomplete - the clutch begins to slip. The disk needs to be changed.

It's OK. After all, this is an ordinary consumable part of your car, calculated with proper operation for about 80,000 km.

The clutch is the main structural element in the transmission of any car. This mechanism is used for short-term shutdown of the engine from and also for smooth transmission of torque from the engine flywheel to the gearbox. Thus, the clutch is designed to protect the transmission units from various overloads. This mechanism is located between the internal combustion engine and the gearbox. In today's article, we will look at the signs of a burnt clutch in a car, as well as ways to solve this problem.

A little about the node

First, let's focus on the clutch itself. In short, this node can be of several types:

• Single disk.
• Multidisk.

Most modern cars are equipped with a classic single-disk mechanism. It consists of the following elements:

• Slave disk.
• Pressure disc.
• Flywheel.
• diaphragm spring.
• Fork and clutch release.
• Release bearing.

All these elements are located in the gearbox housing, which is bolted to the engine. Often motorists call this place the “bell” of the checkpoint for its characteristic shape. Well, let's look at the signs of a burnt clutch.

Symptoms

The first and most common is the characteristic odor. It is by this that it can be determined that the driven disk is scrolling and rubbing against the flywheel with incredible effort. This suggests that the friction force significantly increased the temperature of the friction linings. In the case of significant loads, the smell can last for a long time. And the cinder comes straight into the salon. You don't have to go outside to do this. Even an inexperienced driver can determine a burned-out clutch.

It should be noted that in rare cases, the element may slip without a characteristic odor. The signs of a burnt clutch are different here - the car simply loses momentum. Everything is very simple: the flywheel transmits torque, which is not fully transmitted to the driven disk. And all because its wear is critical, and it simply cannot engage with the flywheel. In the same way, you can recognize that the clutch on the motorcycle has burned out.

Other signs

If the wear of the friction linings is already critical, the machine will behave differently. Here are some signs of a burnt clutch:

• Difficult start. The vehicle may stop even if the clutch pedal is released. The disk does not have enough pressure to transfer torque to the box further. In this case, it is possible to ascertain the critical wear of the driven disk.
• Fishing while moving. In this case, you can still move the car from a place, but the start will create discomfort. The car starts to shake violently. With a set of speed, these jerks disappear. But they can resume again if the driver makes an attempt to start moving from first gear. Also, the car will uncharacteristically accelerate at the moment of switching to increased speed. Since the disk is not tightly pressed against the flywheel, then the torque will be transmitted jerkily. The car loses momentum. During disassembly, you can find the backlash of the diaphragm springs. They serve to compensate and smooth the loads that go from the flywheel to the box. In the case of backlash of the damper springs on the clutch disc, such a mechanism changes to a new one entirely.
• Clutch pedal travel. In the event that the disc burns out, the driver will notice an increased pedal free play.

Difficulty shifting gears

When the pedal is pressed to the floor, the driver hardly (or with a characteristic crack) turns on the gear. This indicates that the clutch was not completely disengaged.

oiling

By the way, slippage can also occur due to oiling of the friction linings of the disc. Oil from the box for some reason gets on the working surface of the clutch.

As a result, the disk slides in an attempt to catch on the flywheel. This malfunction is also accompanied by a burning smell. But it will look like burnt oil. If so, it is necessary to diagnose the box and find out the reason why the lubricant from the crankcase gets on the disk.

Clutch burnt out: consequences

What are the consequences of driving with a burnt disc? If the friction lining burns, the flywheel suffers first. So, its temperature rises noticeably. And it grows unevenly. Because of this, one part of the flywheel becomes unnecessarily hard. The mechanism is deformed because of this. And since irregularities form on the working surface (ideally, the flywheel should be even), the contact area is significantly reduced. Because of this, the disk is slipping more and more often. Friction linings will not be able to properly engage with the surface and burn because of this. The disk spins freely, and the temperature rises again due to friction. If the driver does not take action in time, microcracks form on the flywheel. And before that, the flywheel itself will be covered with blue spots. The reader can see an example of such an element in the photo below.

What is most interesting, these spots can be determined only after removing the box. But serious consequences can be prevented in advance. So, if signs of a burnt clutch (a characteristic smell of burning) are often observed, and the car itself twitches, you should not postpone the repair. It is not recommended to operate such a vehicle. Otherwise, you can get not only to replace the clutch (which will be done in any case), but also to replace the flywheel. Well, if it has a simple design - single-mass. But on Volkswagen, Skoda and Audi cars, I have been practicing dual-mass flywheels for a long time. Their cost is about 800 dollars.

Why is the clutch on?

The first and most common reason why the clutch burns is the increased load on the car. What is meant by this concept? First of all, it is an aggressive driving style. Due to frequent and abrupt starts from a place, the clutch disc scrolls and burns. When driving in higher gears, the torque is not so significant, and therefore the risk of disc burning is minimized. As statistics show, it is during sharp starts from first gear that the clutch burns.

But not only an aggressive manner can lead to such problems. For example, let's take the GAZelle car. It would seem that this truck can hardly be resorted to aggressive driving. But here is another problem: overload. It is because of the overload that the load on the clutch and other nodes increases. The driver, in an attempt to move off, adds gas, tobish increases the engine speed. accordingly, the torque also increases. This moment is too large, and therefore the disc, when in contact with the flywheel, begins to partially scroll.

The situation is similar with cars that tow a trailer. If the latter is significantly loaded, there is a big risk of burning the clutch. Of course, during rare trips it is impossible to completely wear out the disk, but its resource will definitely decrease.

Another situation that can lead to slipping (and, accordingly, burning) of the disc is towing another car. According to the SDA, the mass of the first vehicle must be higher or at least not less than the one being towed. Otherwise, the clutch suffers increased wear and sometimes burns badly. Similar cases occur during winter operation. A vivid example - the car sat down in the snow. In an attempt to move off, the driver burns the clutch, unaware of the consequences.

About automatic transmission

As such, there is no clutch. Here, this role is assigned to the torque converter. It includes two turbines through which pressurized oil circulates. In view of this, the clutch on an automatic transmission is often called wet. That is, the torque is transmitted through oil. But can the clutch burn out on the machine? Symptoms of a malfunction in this case are different. So, the box will get into emergency mode, and the gears will turn on with kicks. All this indicates the wear of the friction packs.

But jerks can also be for other reasons (for example, due to solenoids or a clogged valve body). Therefore, in any case, the automatic transmission must be diagnosed in detail.

Clutch burned out: how to get to the service?

In the case of a machine, you can only get to the service by a tow truck. Electronics may simply not allow you to continue moving. Therefore, consider the situation on a mechanical box. So, if the clutch burned out, how to get there? Remembering the school physics course, it is easy to guess that in order to start without disc slipping, we need a minimum torque. Naturally, the gear ratios of the first speed will not allow us to do this. Turning on the first speed, the car will stand still. Therefore, you need to get under way from the second, and sometimes even from the third gear.

So, the friction force will be as low as possible, and the car will be able to start moving without disc slipping. If necessary, you can shift to a higher gear. To do this, it is enough to develop the necessary speed and turn on the speed. But in order to switch back to the lower one, one cannot do without re-gassing. To do this, we switch the lever to the neutral position and raise the speed above three thousand. Next, turn on the lower gear.

What is a replacement?

Many motorists are wondering what to change. A burnt clutch cannot be restored or repaired. Therefore, a completely new driven disk is installed on the car. In addition, experts recommend inspecting the condition of the pressure plate. If the petals are bent, this element must also be replaced. In addition, you need to change the release bearing. Its resource is slightly higher than that of the disk. But if we disassemble the box, then put a new bearing. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble the transmission again, after 10-20 thousand kilometers. And this procedure is quite laborious and painstaking.

So, we found out the signs of a burnt clutch and the causes of this phenomenon.

Before buying the first car, drivers diligently learn the rules of the road, roll back dozens of hours with an instructor and prepare to finally get their own car.

Of particular importance in the proper operation of the car is the handling of the clutch, because it is easy to burn it. It is very important to move off correctly. It is at this point that the clutch is under the greatest load.

Important! Also, the clutch can be burned during difficult maneuvers on the road. To prevent this from happening, automotive experts advise beginners to refrain from aggressive driving styles.

How can you burn the clutch on the mechanics

In fact, burning this transmission element is quite simple. For example, it is enough to raise the number of revolutions to five thousand before releasing the pedal. Only street racers can afford this, who change burnt parts once a week.

Important! Also, do not keep the pedal half-pressed for a long time. This has an extremely negative effect on the entire system.

A long slip in the mud can also lead to the complete failure of this part. A characteristic smell will be an indicator that the knot has warmed up and the discs have become completely smooth.

Switching off the gear on the descent can also lead to sad consequences. To prevent this from happening, descend using first gear. In this case, use the foot or hand brake.

What is clutch

In order not to burn the clutch, let's figure out what this car assembly is. This is the part of the chassis that disconnects the crankshaft from the gearbox for a short moment. If this did not happen, then the car simply could not move. Moreover, shifting gears at speed would simply be impossible.

Most often, single-plate clutches are installed on trucks and cars. This part can be classified as a friction type of device. It consists of a main mechanism and a drive.

To determine how worn out the disk is, it is enough to turn on the fourth gear and press the gas pedal to the floor. If at the same time the engine roared, but there was no “push”, the clutch will have to be replaced.

Attention! The clutch performance test may be accompanied by the smell of burning rubber.

Clutch design

In order not to burn the clutch, let's consider in detail what this car assembly consists of:

1. Pressure disc. Most drivers simply refer to it as a "basket". This is the base of the part, which really resembles a basket in shape. Release springs are installed at the base. They are connected by a pressure pad. The device is connected to the flywheel.
2. Slave disk. The part consists of a beam base, a coupling and overlays. The design also includes damper springs, they smooth out vibrations when switching. As a result, it becomes much more difficult to burn the clutch on the mechanics.
3. Release bearing. One side of the part is the pressure pad. The device is located on the input shaft. Due to the operation of the bearing, the drive fork comes into action . Sometimes locking springs are used for fixing.
4. Clutch pedal. It is located in the car on the left side, and in order to burn the system, you need to operate it extremely ineptly. Cars equipped with an automatic transmission do not have this pedal.

As you can see, the car's grip is not very complicated structurally. Simplicity of design has a positive effect on performance. Therefore, to burn the system you need to try.

Clutch operation in different drive systems

Every driver knows that there are several types of transmission. At the moment, three are most often used in production:

1. Mechanics. When you press the clutch pedal, the force is transmitted by means of a cable. It is in this system that it is easiest to burn the part. The cable is placed inside the casing. The cover is in front of the pedal.
2. Hydraulics. Structurally, this system consists of two cylinders. They are interconnected by a tube capable of withstanding high pressure. When the driver presses the pedal, the rod with the piston at the end is activated. It creates pressure on the brake fluid, and it is transmitted to the working cylinder.
3. Electrical system. In this case, the clutch has an electric motor. It is activated when you press the pedal. A rope is attached to it. The further process occurs by analogy with mechanics.

It is these three clutch systems that automotive manufacturers use in their cars. Knowing which one is installed on your car will help not to burn the clutch.

How not to burn your clutch

How not to burn the clutch when starting from a place

Let's get straight to the point. Your engine is running. Neutral gear engaged. In order not to burn the clutch, you press on the pedal and shift into first gear. The main thing is to make a smooth connection of the crankshaft and gearbox.

Attention! In the context, everything will happen as follows: the driven disk will press against the rotating one. In this case, the number of revolutions will be about 25 per second.

In order not to burn the system when moving from neutral to first, we divide the operation into three stages:

1. Lightly depress the pedal. At this point, the springs on the pressure plate will bring the second plate up to the flywheel. The touch will be light and weightless. This will cause the car to move forward. Of course, the speed will be minimal.
2. At the second stage, you need to hold the clutch pedal for no more than 2-3 seconds. This will equalize the speed of rotation of the disk and flywheel. The car will gradually accelerate.
3. Now the car drives confidently on the road. Torque is completely transferred to the transmission. You can depress the pedal. You don't have to keep it too long. This will burn discs.

Follow this algorithm when starting off. It will allow you not to burn the clutch in the first thousand.

The nuances of starting from a place

In order not to burn the clutch and not crash into the nearest tree, before driving, be sure to check whether the car is on the handbrake. Before you start driving, it does not hurt to warm up the engine a little.

When you press the pedal all the way down and engage first gear, be sure to turn on the turn signal, if there is a need for it. Otherwise, you risk creating an accident.

In order not to burn the system, bring the pedal exactly to the moment of setting. At the same time, you can increase the pressure on the gas. The number of revolutions on the tachometer will jump up to one and a half thousand revolutions.

Important! Do not raise the number of revolutions to 2500-3000. This can burn the clutch.

When starting, constantly monitor the position of the tachometer needle. Unfortunately, many drivers try to track the operation of the motor, relying solely on hearing. But this is not the best option, since the accuracy of such monitoring is not very high.

At first, it will be very difficult for you to correctly calculate the force with which you need to press on the gas pedal. Therefore, for a while, give up shoes with hard soles. You also have to forget about heels.

How not to burn the clutch at a traffic light

In most cases, huge damage to the system is caused due to incorrect actions when driving through intersections with traffic lights. The fact is that in many driving schools, instructors give incorrect information in advance. They say that in order not to burn the clutch at a traffic light, it is enough to depress the pedal and leave it in first gear.

At first glance, a similar fit can really help not to burn the clutch. But in reality, things happen a little differently. Indeed, the disks in this mode do not touch. Accordingly, the lining should not burn. But during this operation, the load on the release valve increases. As a result, it becomes easier to burn the part several times.

Attention! At a traffic light, in order not to burn the clutch, shift to neutral and release the pedal.

How not to burn the clutch in traffic

This transmission component receives very great harm when the car is standing in a traffic jam. The fact is that many drivers simply do not take their foot off the pedal, turning on and off the connection of the crankshaft with the gearbox.

Because of this, the driven disk rubs against the flywheel. The main problem is that the movements are asynchronous. As a result, increased heating occurs, and it becomes a breeze to burn the entire system.

Attention! When you get into a traffic jam, cover the distance in stages, shifting into gear and without touching the clutch pedal.

Results

As you can see, in order not to burn the clutch in the car, it is enough to follow simple rules. Drive carefully, do not start at very high speeds and properly exploit the capabilities of the car at traffic lights and traffic jams. Also try to avoid slipping.

Sometimes, although rarely, it happens: you press the gas, “the engine roars”, as the famous song says, but the car does not move. Or driving, but slowly. The specialist will immediately say: "The clutch is dead," and he will be right, but from his rightness it is not easier, but even harder - after all, the costs of replacing it (the clutch) are coming.

When the clutch, or rather, the clutch disc, dies a natural death when it has lived its allotted time, then this is normal. You can count the clutch consumable. But sometimes it also happens that the owner of the car, by his actions, shortens the already not very long age of the driven disk, or even simply “kills” him.

First, about what this very clutch is: it is a sandwich, where a driven disk made of a special material with a high coefficient of friction is clamped between two metal drive discs with terrible force. While this most terrible force of the clamping springs compresses the disks, then, provided that the driven disk is not worn out and has sufficient thickness, they can be considered as a single whole. But one has only to press the pedal, i.e., “squeeze the clutch”, as this whole sandwich ceases to be a single whole. The motor is spinning, the car is standing still - the driven disk is in place, and the two metal ones surrounding it rotate with the crankshaft, and you calmly turn on the first gear. You can’t drop the clutch - any motorist knows this from the time of training at a driving school. It is necessary to start off smoothly, and this smoothness is achieved by the fact that the middle driven disk slips for some time when the clutch is engaged, which leads to intense heating of the clutch and wear of the disks.

If the machine is loaded beyond measure, then the process of starting off takes much longer than usual. At the same time, in order for the engine not to stall, it is necessary to slip the clutch for a long time, which leads to its accelerated wear and premature death. Some of my friends, having loaded almost a ton onto a passenger car, which, even though the car was with a station wagon body, is clearly too much, they burned the clutch in one trip to Kamensk. The same thing happens with a tightened "handbrake".

A worn-out clutch fails very quickly - it slips a little, but this “bit” is enough for the entire assembly to heat up, then it starts to burn, this makes the clutch slip even more, the temperature rises - a vicious circle, but it turns out. The result is smoke, the smell of a singed Ferodo, the engine is running, but the car is not moving.

Another option is to easily burn the clutch - to drive an ordinary modern high-speed passenger car into impassable mud. You have to keep the revs high so that the engine pulls out, and at these high revs you actively slip the clutch so that the engine pulls out again. It is the Niva that has a low gear in the transfer case, on which you can not only drive from anywhere, but also plow the garden, but you still shouldn’t get into the mud in an ordinary car.

And one more thing: do not stand at traffic lights waiting for the green light with the first gear engaged and depressing the clutch. Of course, now that release bearings are ubiquitous instead of obsolete graphite thrust bearings, this is not so important, but the bearing under such a heavy load as a clutch wears out quite well too. You can, of course, drive without a clutch - turn on first gear and start on the move, then shift gears at the moment you let off the gas (synchronizers in the gearbox were clearly invented for this). However, there is little pleasure from such a ride, and it does not add health to the car. So take care of the clutch, this is a necessary thing.

Up ▲ — Reader reviews (1) — Write a review ▼ - Print version

Eugene	March 26, 2011, 21:24:03

Hmm ... thanks, very informative information - but it’s interesting how to prove in the cabin that you didn’t burn the clutch, but it itself failed, otherwise there will be no guarantee. After all, if it is already slipping, therefore you are no longer moving smoothly and thereby firing it, in the end you will be to blame in any case and repair at your own expense

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23.11.2017

Vibrations at start-up, a burning smell when shifting and starting to move, revs float during acceleration, the clutch pedal has changed its operating range - all this indicates a problem with the clutch. How to avoid this and what processes occur with this node, we will describe in more detail in this article.

For those who do not want to delve into the technical part of the issue, we recommend that you go down the article, to the section: "Practical tips on how not to burn the clutch."

The process of burning the clutch, in which the driver may be the culprit, and not the breakdown of the car, often occurs on a manual transmission. Let's take a look at this process using her example.

Let's first find out what a clutch is and what can be burned in it?

What is clutch?

The clutch is a mechanism designed to transfer torque from the engine to the transmission and takes part in the gear shift process.

The clutch mechanism consists of a flywheel, clutch basket and clutch disc. Other elements may be different depending on the type of transmission and technologies that are used in a particular vehicle.

The flywheel consists of cast iron or steel, has a ring gear along the contour. This element refers to two nodes at the same time. It is part of the engine, stabilizing the rotation of the crankshaft and removing the main imbalance during engine operation. Its second function in a manual transmission is to transmit transmission torque using the friction force between its surface and the surface of the clutch disc. There is a third task, this is to transfer rotation when starting the engine from the starter to the motor. But in this case, it does not apply to the topic of this article.

The clutch disc is an element of the clutch system, consisting of a steel inner part, in the center of which there is a splined part, and, as a rule, damper springs are installed around the splines. Further from the center is a working surface, which is similar in composition to the composition of brake pads.

The clutch basket consists of a housing and petal spring elements. It is rigidly fixed on the flywheel, performs the function of increasing and weakening the friction force between the flywheel and the clutch disc.

How does a clutch work?

When the engine is running and you are in neutral, the clutch disc is pressed against the flywheel with the petals of the basket. This whole structure rotates together with the crankshaft of the engine and with the input shaft of the gearbox. As soon as you decide to turn on the gear - you press the pedal. With the help of hydraulic elements and the fluid that is in the system, pressure is transmitted to the release bearing. It rests against the petals of the basket and, due to the lever mechanism, the petals reduce the pressure on the clutch disc.

Friction between the disk and the flywheel decreases, the rotation of the engine is not transmitted to the input shaft of the gearbox, and during gear engagement, using the transmission gears, you connect the primary and secondary shafts to the gearbox (the secondary shaft is connected directly to the drive, which goes to the differential, further from which torque is transmitted to the wheels through the axle shafts). Slowly releasing the clutch pedal, the process is reversed. The basket petals again increase the pressing force of the disc against the flywheel. In the process of closing the flywheel and the disk, the car starts moving. When the pedal is fully depressed, the disc is pressed against the flywheel as much as possible and does not slip, transferring all the power of the engine to the transmission and then to the wheels.

We analyzed the process of clutch operation in the simplest version. In modern cars, this process can be implemented by more complex algorithms, but the principle itself remains the same.

Cause of premature clutch failure

The problem is that by running the clutch hard, the engine will get an instant load that it cannot handle (unless, of course, you keep high speeds and do not want to burn the wheels). At this point, the engine will either stall, or the car will start to jump in jerks, while losing the smoothness of acceleration.

With an increased time to "release" the clutch pedal, the disc, which tends to cling to the flywheel, will begin to rub against it longer than the situation would require. At this moment, in the process of friction, the temperature on the surfaces of both the flywheel and the disk increases sharply. The temperature between them always increases, but the longer the process of releasing the pedal lasts, the higher the temperature and the clutch disc begins to “burn”. Of course, not in the truest sense of the word. In reality, it overheats, going beyond the operating temperature. This leads to its excessive wear and, subsequently, to its early replacement (they say: “the clutch burned out”)

How to change gears:

1. squeeze the clutch all the way;
2. turn on the transmission;
3. slowly release the pedal until the car starts moving;
4. you will see that the engine will start to lose speed;
5. add a little gas (5-10 percent);
6. release the clutch completely (already faster).

The whole process should take up to 3-4 seconds. Don't rev too high. With a smooth start, instinctively you will start to release the clutch pedal more slowly. This will again lead to overheating of the clutch disc.

In simple terms, the less you hold the clutch at the moment when the car is already starting to move, the longer the clutch disc will last. But do not throw it abruptly, it will have a bad effect on other elements of the car. To catch the moment and feel the car is your main task.

With an increase in gears up, the process of working with the clutch is simplified, the speed of pressing and releasing the pedal can be proportionally increased.

Do not put your foot on the clutch pedal unnecessarily. The slightest pressure can set the mechanism in motion and the disk will begin to slip, wearing out in vain. Touch the pedal only when the situation requires it.

Train on designated areas and ask questions to experienced instructors and friends.

Remember! Clutch life depends on the driver. The recommended diagnostic interval is from 80 to 100 thousand kilometers. We will select and replace the necessary elements for you if they are out of order. You can purchase any spare parts of this unit from us, having received a guarantee on them.