If the Oka car does not start the first time, then it is necessary to correctly set ignition. Also, the correct ignition affects fuel consumption and the overall dynamism of the car.
Instruction
1. First, remove the air filter. It is only necessary to check the ignition timing when the engine is idling. The crankshaft speed should be 820–900 min–1. The lead angle must not deviate more than 1° from top dead center.
2. If the advance angle is set abnormally, this will lead to overheating of the motor. Also, the car will not develop full power. In some cases, detonation occurs.
3. To set the ignition, you need to combine the risk on the flywheel with the middle division on the scale. The first risk you can find on the flywheel. The second risk is on the scale of the rear crankshaft oil seal. At this point, the piston of the first cylinder will be at top dead center. Each division on the scale corresponds to 2° of rotation of the crankshaft.
4. You can also set the ignition according to the marks that are on the generator wire pulley, as well as on the front cover of the camshaft drive belt. The long mark will correspond to the installation of the first cylinder at top dead center. A short mark corresponds to an ignition advance of 5 ° of crankshaft rotation. According to these labels, they often put ignition on the stand.
5. First you need to disconnect the hose from the vacuum regulator. Later, remove the tip of the high-voltage wire from the spark plug of the first cylinder. It must be connected to the strobe sensor. Be sure to read the instructions supplied with this device.
6. Next, remove the rubber plug from the hatch of the clutch housing. Direct a stream of light into the hatch of the clutch housing. If the ignition moment is set correctly, then the mark will be located between the middle division 2 of the scale and the previous division 3. Otherwise, you will have to adjust the ignition timing.
7. You need to first loosen the three nuts that secure the spark torque sensor. To increase the ignition timing, turn the housing clockwise. To decrease it, turn the housing counterclockwise. After adjustment, tighten the sensor fastening nuts perfectly.
Experienced owners of the domestic "classics" perfectly know about all the quirks of this invention of the Russian car industry. And for beginners, a lot can be unaware, let's say how to set the VAZ ignition. It's not that hard if, by and large, the car is set up and working properly. Let's consider a way to "field" ignition settings on a VAZ, without the use of special devices.
You will need
- - car VAZ (01-07 models)
- - wrench 13
- - a straight section of the road where it is allowed to drive 60 km/h
Instruction
1. Looks like signs. The motor overheats, poor acceleration dynamics, a ringing is heard in the motor at low and medium cycles, the car shakes at idle. This happens not only because of an abnormally tuned ignition, it can be in the fuel system, in the quality of gasoline, in the carburetor settings, and so on. However, it is easier for everyone in such an environment to reset the ignition in order to exclude one option for the causes of malfunctions, and move on.
2. We start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature. We open the hood and arm ourselves with a 13 mm key. We do not turn off the motor. We get up from the left side of the car and look at the distributor (this is such a thing from which four thick wires go to the motor, and one of the same goes to a small coil). The distributor is inserted into the motor and fastened with a clamping bracket, on which you will see a nut, which is what we need. We weaken it so that it is allowed to turn the distributor by holding the cover.
3. Rotate the distributor. You will notice that motor cycles decrease and increase depending on the location of the distributor. Now we need to catch the moment when the cycles will be especially high and as stable as possible. Lock the nut and get behind the wheel. Now you need to drive a little. At the moment when the speed is around 60 km / h, switch to fourth gear and firmly press the gas pedal all the way. By the way, it is desirable to do this in silence. If the motor responds with a “cheerful bass” and confidently starts to gain cycles, then everything is in order. If you hear a detonation sound (the ringing of “fingers”, this is similar to a frequent metallic knock), then the ignition is too early. And if, with a sharp pressure on the gas, a failure follows, and the engine will “howl” and barely pick up cycles, then the ignition is too late.
4. It turns out that you have determined how clearly the ignition is set up. We stop, open the hood and loosen the nut on the distributor again. If the ignition was early, then the distributor must be turned a couple of degrees counterclockwise. If too late, then on the contrary, clockwise. Turn the distributor hefty diligently, with a slight movement. After adjustment, tighten the nut and repeat the test run. If the adjustment is again unsatisfactory, turn the distributor again, this time to an even smaller angle. Repeat the procedure until the result is close to flawless.
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Note!
If the described tasks in the operation of the motor continue even after the ignition adjustment, or the adjustment fails, then the cause of the disease should be sought elsewhere. It is possible that the matter is in the carburetor, low-quality gasoline, or in faulty candles, coil, distributor sensors (vacuum and centrifugal).
Helpful advice
The result, close to perfect, is when, when the gas pedal is sharply pressed in fourth gear at a speed of 60 km / h, the “fingers” ring no more than 2 times.
The measured rumble of a running motor is only permissible with an immaculately set angle advancing ignition. Compliance with this parameter gives the car's engine maximum power, fuel economy and driving comfort.
You will need
- - wrench 13 or 10 mm;
- – control lamp;
- - a key for turning the crankshaft.
Instruction
1. To set an angle advancing ignition in the car, the gearshift lever is moved to the neutral position, and the car is held by the parking brake in the future.
2. The cover with high-voltage wires is removed from the distributor-breaker, after which the crankshaft is turned with a ratchet key until the distributor slider moves to the sector of the first cylinder of the distributor. Continuing to carefully turn the crankshaft of the motor, the marks on the shaft pulley and the ebb of the front cover are combined.
3. Next, one wire of the test lamp is connected to the coil terminal ignition, the wire from which is combined with the result of the breaker-distributor, and the 2nd wire of the control lamp is connected to the mass of the motor or body in any comfortable place. Later, the fastening of the distributor is loosened.
4. At this stage, the key turns on the ignition. Now, pressing the distributor slider against the move, the distributor housing, if the control lamp is on, rotates in the opposite direction of rotation of its roller until the lamp goes out.
5. Having turned the body of the breaker-distributor a little more, it is carefully turned in the opposite direction, not forgetting to press the slider, and at the moment the control lamp lights up, it is fixed and the device fastening bolts are tightened.
6. Putting the cover with high-voltage wires in place, setting the angle advancing ignition considered completed.
The core snag of the classic Zhiguli models is the setting of the ignition. Often, from an abnormally set ignition, the car stalls during a trip, the carburetor shoots. In a word, this snag cannot be ignored. Therefore, you need to be able to set the ignition on the classics.
You will need
- 1)Multifunction key to turn the ratchet;
- 2) Open-end wrench to "13";
- 3) Indicator.
Instruction
1. Unscrew the nut securing the distributor with a key to “13”. Also remove the distributor cap. Now set the location of the outer contact of the distributor to the 1st cylinder. Put on the cover and tighten the fastening nut. Remember to put the “armored wires” on the spark plugs in the correct order. Usually the cylinder numbers are indicated on the wires.
2. Remember designations of labels on a forward cover of the block of cylinders. The first mark indicates the ignition timing by 10 degrees, the second mark by 5 degrees, the third mark zero degrees.
3. Set a mark on the alternator pulley. To do this, you need to use a multi-function wrench to turn the ratchet nut. If the pulley mark is too far away, then it is allowed, with the help of scrolling the starter with a key, to bring it closer to the closest possible distance. The mark itself, located on the pulley, can be marked with chalk for better visibility. With the support of an indicator screwdriver, determine the ignition timing. To do this, connect one indicator probe to the contact, the one that is responsible for the low voltage of the distributor. Combine the other with the "mass". Turn on the ignition. Now, with the support of the key, turn the ratchet along the marks until the indicator lamp lights up.
4. Check for correct ignition timing. Warm up the car engine to operating temperature. Accelerate the car to 50 km/h and move in fourth gear. After that, sharply press the accelerator pedal, a detonation should appear lasting 1-3 seconds. In its absence, increase the ignition timing by turning counter-clockwise. For more prolonged detonation, reduce the advance angle by moving the distributor housing clockwise. If the carburetor or the exhaust pipe “shoots” during the start of the engine, then the set ignition is early. If the engine does not start for a long time, then the ignition is later.
An experienced motorist in many cases should feel that something is wrong with the motor. The novice driver ignores many of these signals until the final breakdown occurs. Positive installation moment ignition makes it possible to enjoy driving a car. Consequently, machine manufacturers strongly recommend that it be adjusted during all maintenance. But, you can easily do it yourself.
You will need
- - kapron brush;
- - cleaning rags;
- – control lamp 12V;
- - probe;
- - starting handle.
Instruction
1. Remove the engine valve cover. Set the mark on the crankshaft pulley opposite the middle mark (5 degrees) on the front cover of the motor and align the mark on the timing gear (timing) with the mark on the camshaft housing. Typical operation of the internal combustion engine is ensured by the correct installation moment(advance) ignition. Due to the late ignition the engine loses power because the fuel does not burn completely, in addition, it overheats, loses throttle response and consumes much more fuel than it should. At an early moment ignition detonation knocks occur, valves and pistons can burn out.
2. Set the number one piston to top dead center (TDC). To do this, unscrew the candle in this cylinder, insert a small plastic or wooden stick into this hole, slowly turn the crankshaft. At TDC, it will stop and begin to slowly decline. Cylinder firing order: 1-3-4-2.
3. Take a nylon brush, cleaning rags, a 12V control lamp, a probe and a starting handle. Particularly faithful and primitive installation method moment ignition self-powered - installation with the support of a control lamp.
4. Remove the distributor cover. Set the octane corrector nut to the "0" position. Connect one end of the lamp wire to the "+" terminal (power wire, the one that comes from the coil ignition to him), and the 2nd - to "-", mass.
5. Turn on the ignition and turn the crankshaft slowly with the starter handle, watching the control lamp. At the moment when the lamp lights up, notice if the mark on the pulley coincides with the mark on the timing cover. If this does not happen, change the lead angle ignition octane corrector nut. One rotation per one division is equal to one degree of rotation of the crankshaft of the motor. The adjustment reserve with the help of an octane corrector is from -5° to +5°.
6. Set the octane corrector nut to the “0” position and slightly unscrew, to move, the nut of the plate that secures the distributor ignition. This should be used when adjusting the octane corrector failed to set the torque ignition .
7. Align the mark on the crankshaft with the mark on the front cover of the internal combustion engine and the mark on the timing gear with the mark on the camshaft housing at the same time. Connect the test lamp as in the previous paragraphs. Slowly turn the distributor housing around its axis until the lamp lights up. Attach it to this location. Start the engine. By ear, check its operation for detonation knocks or interruptions. If there is, use an octane corrector to achieve smooth operation. Final check the moment ignition in move.
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The ignition system is one of the main systems of a car. If the ignition timing is set incorrectly, the engine will start to overheat, will not develop full power, fuel consumption will increase significantly, and detonation will appear. To check the ignition timing, you can use a stroboscope. It is allowed to install it both at the service station and on your own.
Instruction
1. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum corrector. In order to check the ignition timing, you should connect the plus clamp of the stroboscope to the plus terminal of the battery. Connect the minus clamp of the stroboscope to the "minus" of the battery.
2. Remove the high-voltage wire from the socket of the first cylinder of the distributor cap. Insert the strobe sensor into this place and connect the high-voltage wire to it. Remove the rubber plug from the clutch housing hatch. Start the engine, set on it, according to the readings of the tachometer, the crankshaft speed in the range of 820-900 rpm.
3. Direct the flashing light stream of the strobe into the hatch of the clutch housing. The mark on the flywheel will appear static when the light is flashing. If the ignition moment is set correctly, then it will be between the middle and previous divisions of the scale. If not, adjust the ignition timing.
4. Slightly loosen the sensor-distributor mounting nuts. In order to increase the ignition timing, turn the housing of the distribution sensor clockwise (the plus mark on the flange of its housing to the protrusion on the drive housing). Consider that one notch on the flange corresponds to 8 degrees of crankshaft rotation. In order to reduce the angle, turn the housing of the distribution sensor counterclockwise (mark "minus" to the protrusion on the housing).
5. Stop the engine. Remove the cap from the candle of the first cylinder. Unscrew the candle. Set the piston to top dead center. To do this, insert a long screwdriver into the spark plug hole and, rotating the crankshaft by hand, stop it at the moment when it stops and starts to drop. Remove the clutch housing rubber plug. At this point, the average mark on the flywheel should be right in front of the notch on the scale.
6. Open the cover of the distributor sensor and, holding it with your fingers in order to remove the gaps, align the rotor mark and the stator petal in one line. Fix the distribution sensor. Check the ignition setting with the engine warm at 60 km/h on a level road. To do this, abruptly press the accelerator. If you feel a temporary detonation that quickly passes, then the ignition timing is set positively.
To contribute to the excellent performance of your car, by all means choose the right spark plugs for it. VAZ cars are cars that require the installation of candles from such reputable brands as BRISK, BOSCH, NGK, CHAMPION.
You will need
- - candle key;
- - stand for checking candles.
Instruction
1. Choose candles based on parameters such as glow rating and size. The heat number determines the temperature mode of operation. The higher the mode, the colder the candle, and, consequently, it is likely to work at especially low temperatures. The size must be rigorously chosen positively so that the candle can fall into its place without effort. For VAZ cars, BOSCH products, which own a central electrode, are perfectly suitable. The copper core of which is protected by a layer of chromium and nickel.
2. Choose more inexpensive spark plugs suitable for VAZ cars. They are produced by BRISK. This is a classic product, the electrode of which consists of a nickel alloy. Pay attention to the high thermal conductivity of these candles. The candles of the Japanese company NGK and the overseas company CHAMPION are distinguished by high safety. They have proven themselves because they are durable due to the iridium in the center electrode.
3. Do not purchase spark plugs that are visibly damaged or cracked. Rigorously check before installation that the gap between the electrodes is the right size. Carbon deposits may form on the spark plug electrodes, which you should remove in order to avoid car failure.
4. In order to check the purchased spark plugs, put them in a pressure chamber for a while and set a pressure of about 10 kg / cm2, after which connect a current of 22 kV. When performing these steps, sparking should occur. If it is constant, install a candle in the car. If it occurs intermittently, then your candle is faulty.
5. Find out the spark gap for your VAZ model. Also, do not apply more than 18 kV voltage to the candles when checking them.
Note!
It is allowed to consider the high price of spark plugs justified if they have iridium and platinum tips.
If your motorcycle does not start or does not operate normally, then the cause is probably an incorrectly set ignition. This issue should be given special attention.
Instruction
1. It is worth noting right away that the G-401, G-411, G-421 generators have a mechanical ignition system. To set the ignition, you need to positively adjust the gap between the ignition contacts. Note that you will also have to adjust the outline at the same time.
2. Special attention should be paid to adjusting the gaps in the breaker. For this purpose, turn the rotor with a key of ten in such an arrangement in which the gap will be larger than each. After this, loosen the screw, the one that holds the contact post to the cover. With the support of a screwdriver, turn the eccentric to such an arrangement that the gap between the contacts is about 0.4 mm. To work better than everyone, pre-buy a special probe. Its thickness is 0.45 mm. It should be slightly clamped by contacts.
3. If you are an experienced driver, you can adjust the gap directly on the running engine. To do this, slowly turn the eccentric with a screwdriver. Determine the gap at which the motor cycles will be the largest when the throttle is at a fixed position. After this, it is necessary to tighten the screw of the contact post perfectly. The clearance during subsequent driving should not change independently.
4. After setting the gap in the breaker, you need to set the piston to top dead center, and then turn it back 3 mm. For convenience, you can insert a screwdriver into the hole in the cylinder head. Turning is allowed to be carried out with the same key for ten. Note that the piston should stop at a position of 3 mm before TDC in motion from TDC.
5. Instead of a screwdriver, you can use a micrometer, the one that has a watch head. Also cool for this purpose is a caliper with a specific depth gauge. Release the stator bolts and start turning it in such a way that the contacts in the breaker begin to move away from each other, that is, open.
In order to correctly adjust the carburetor gazelles, you should first check the ignition timing. In addition, the power of the motor depends entirely on the correct installation and ignition settings.
You will need
- - a highly professional reference book;
- - stroboscope;
- - a tube;
- - dye;
- - brush;
- - tools.
Instruction
1. To set the ignition timing, use a stroboscope, while taking the parameters that the motor must correspond to from professional reference books (they contain data for the entire individual model).
2. If a vacuum regulator was installed on the ignition distributor, check under what conditions the vacuum is supplied. There are two options for the supply of vacuum to the regulator: after a light press on the gas pedal and with the engine turned on.
3. Often the vacuum comes only after the engine has started. As usual, this option is represented by a difficult design, prepared for mechanical control. ignition. This design is represented by switches, condensate collectors, thermal switches and delay valves, as a result of which the vacuum force acts on the regulator, and the force of the effect depends on the temperature of the motor.
4. Check the operation of the vacuum regulator with the support of a special tube, one end of which is put on the regulator. With the engine idling, make a vacuum in the tube, and also increase the engine cycles to 100-200 rpm.
5. In order to adjust the ignition with the help of a strobe, there is a graduated scale on the motor. Look for these marks on the crankshaft pulleys (from the front of the motor or in the window located above the flywheel). As usual, these places are covered with a thick layer of mud deposits or rust, therefore, before measuring the indicators that concern you, clean the motor coolly and tint the marks.
6. Adjustment is made on a warm engine, the one that is idling. Carefully turn the ignition distributor at a small angle, while aligning the necessary marks with the blinking strobe light.
Note!
Later, setting the ignition on the Gazelle will require a short trip, allowing you to check the driving performance of the vehicle.
About half a century has passed since the first car with a gasoline injection system rolled off the assembly line. Today, such cars are produced ten times more than carbureted ones. Knowledge positively expose ignition on injector suitable for many car enthusiasts.
You will need
- - PC with installed program for diagnostics of injection motors;
- - tester;
- - a set of keys;
- - screwdrivers.
Instruction
1. The injector of the car is controlled by electronics, which is subordinate to the on-board computer of the car. Monitor the connection of system components. Turn on ignition and weight and check. At this point, the electric pump should turn on and pump gasoline. If this does not happen, check the health of the relay that controls the operation of the electric pump.
2. If the malfunction lamp on the front panel of the car signals, carry out diagnostics. To check, use the on-board computer and a personal computer connected to it with profile software installed. Examine all vehicle parameters that you have accessed.
3. Proceed to starting the car if no engine malfunctions are found at this stage. Check throttle device. Visually inspect the condition of the throttle position sensor and wires. Turn on ignition, check the voltage of the sensor and the on-board network with a tester. Check the degree of throttle opening.
4. Compare your results with benchmarks. Remember that typical sensor voltage is in the range of 0.45 - 0.55 volts. The voltage of the on-board network must be above twelve volts, and the throttle opening degree must not exceed one percent. Adjust the throttle actuator so that it completely closes the damper.
5. Press the accelerator pedal all the way down and repeat the measurements. In this arrangement, the sensor voltage should be about four and a half volts, and the throttle opening degree should be at least ninety percent. Adjust the throttle actuator to full open.
6. Turn off the booster airflow control. Set the throttle to half open to supply air when starting a warm engine easily. Adjust the throttle actuator to completely close the hole.
A properly set ignition on a motorcycle contributes to its highly efficient operation. Proper adjustment increases engine power and speed, and also allows you to save fuel. On most new Ural motorcycles, the current contactless ignition is installed. Old models can also be converted to this type of ignition, which makes the adjustment process easier.
You will need
- - screwdriver;
- - spanners;
- – control lamp;
- - Newspaper.
Instruction
1. Set the crankshaft to the location corresponding to the top dead center on the compression stroke of the first cylinder. Focus on the long mark on the crankshaft. Make sure that the rotor contact is placed opposite the internal cover contact. This contact must be connected with a wire from the spark plugs of the first cylinder.
2. In the event that the switchgear was installed on the motor after its repair, unscrew the spark plug of the first cylinder. Close the resulting hole with a cork made of paper. Start rotating the crankshaft until the air pushes the plug out of the hole. This moment indicates the preface of the compression stroke in the corresponding cylinder.
3. Loosen the fastening of the microprocessor unit so that it can rotate. Turn the block counterclockwise until it stops.
4. Locate the special mark on the flywheel and align it with the center mark of the motorcycle motor. One label is traditionally denoted by the letter "B" (top dead center), and the other by the letter "P" (early ignition).
5. Make sure that power is supplied to the ignition system and to the microprocessor unit, which can be checked by the LED lamp.
6. Slowly turn the block and determine the moment when the control lamp goes out. Now tighten the fixing bolts correctly.
7. At the end of the adjustment, specify the onset of the ignition timing on the skill. Use a test lamp for this, closing the contacts. With the ignition set to positive, the lamp will light up and go out when the crankshaft is turned.
8. When setting an ignition that has a contact circuit, first check and adjust the gap between the breaker contacts (it should be approximately 0.5 mm). Connect a test lamp to the low voltage terminal of the coil; Attach the 2nd wire from the lamp to ground.
9. Now turn the crankshaft until the marks on the flywheel and crankcase match. Rotate the breaker housing after loosening the fixing screws in advance. When the test lamp lights up, correctly fix the breaker housing. Switch off the control lamp.
In a diesel engine, the fuel ignites, heating up from an increase in pressure. Under ignition, the process of setting the injection advance angle is perceived, on which the coordinated operation of all engine cylinders depends.
You will need
- - Kamaz car;
- – the fuel pump of a high pressure;
- - wrench 17 mm;
- - a metal rod with a diameter of 10 mm, a length of 30-40 cm.
Instruction
1. Diesel engine fuel equipment components are high precision instruments. The installation of a high-pressure fuel pump (high-pressure fuel pump) of a V-type on Kamaz requires the correct determination of the angle of injection of diesel fuel into the working cylinder of the vehicle. Remember that even a deviation of one degree can lead to failure of the power apparatus and its further overhaul.
2. Start adjusting the ignition on Kamaz using a special technology for installing a fuel pump with a synchronous setting of the injection moment angle. Raise the vehicle cab and secure it to the support stand. Rotate ninety degrees and fix the mechanical device rod in the special slot on the flywheel guard housing located on the left side of the machine motor.
3. With the support of a 17 mm wrench, unscrew the two bolts on the flywheel housing at the bottom of the machine and remove the mudguard. Through the slot in the casing, insert a cone-shaped metal rod into the hole in the flywheel. Using the lever, turn the crankshaft of the motor from left to right until the locking rod in the upper part completely blocks its subsequent movement.
4. Check the location of the fuel pump drive coupling in the collapse of the engine block. If it is turned with the setting scale up, align the mark on the injection pump flange with the zero mark on the drive and tighten the two fixing bolts. Otherwise, repeat the steps by lifting the stopper and turning the crankshaft of the motor one cycle.
5. Lift the flywheel stopper up, rotate it ninety degrees and insert it into the special slot. Install the mudguard on the bottom of the flywheel housing. Lower the Kamaz cab and place its latches in the upper position.
An abnormally set ignition timing leads to a noticeable drop in engine power and malfunctions. Setting the ignition on the VAZ 2107 is quite easy; for this, there is no need to contact an auto mechanic.
The VAZ 2107 ignition system consists of a high-voltage coil and a distributor - a contact interrupting mechanism. An abnormally set ignition timing can cause a drop in the power of the power unit or its increased wear. The supply of a spark in the engine piston before the end of the compression stroke is called advanced ignition and leads to untimely ignition of the combustible-air liquid, which adversely affects the condition of the piston and connecting rod. Delayed ignition - the occurrence of a spark a few moments after the piston reaches top dead center. In most cases, the ignition is set a little late, however, too much time difference leads to incomplete combustion of the fuel mixture, which causes carbon deposits and a lack of power.
Preparing to set the ignition
Before setting up the ignition system, the car must be installed on a flat surface, put into neutral gear and the parking brake, or place chocks under the wheels. Having opened the hood body, you need to remove blockages from the cover of the distributor and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. The distributor cover is mounted on spring clips, which can be unfastened with a thin screwdriver or an awl. After removing the cover, it is necessary to clean the carbon electrode and the contacts of the slider from dust and soot, after which it is allowed to start tuning.
Ignition installation VAZ 2107
The regulation of the ignition system in car repair shops is carried out with the support of a special stroboscope. At home, it is allowed to use a conventional digital tester or an ohmmeter with advance charging. With a key of 38, it is necessary to turn the crankshaft of the motor until the distributor slider approaches the first contact at an angle of up to 30 degrees. In this case, an ohmmeter connected to the mass and the contact bolt of the distributor must show the presence of a contact with zero resistance. Next, turn the shaft until the marks on the pulley and the distributor cover are aligned. If, when combined, the ohmmeter shows a value tending to infinity, then the ignition is set positively.
Ignition timing VAZ 2107
An incorrectly set ignition timing can be diagnosed by a prolonged detonation sound, tracked when the fourth gear is turned on at a speed of 50 km / h and the gas pedal is sharply pressed. When the ignition is correctly set, the ringing sound lasts no more than 3 seconds. The prolonged sound of detonation indicates an overestimated ignition angle, and its absence indicates an underestimated one. To adjust the ignition timing, it is necessary to unscrew the bolt securing the distributor to the cylinder head. In order to reduce the ignition angle, the distributor housing must be rotated clockwise, and in order to increase it, counterclockwise. After the adjustment, you need to install the cover of the distributor in place
The VAZ 2106 used both contact and non-contact ignition systems. And the adjustment of the ignition timing is slightly different for both systems. An exceptional difference is that the cover of the distributor is removed much less often in a non-contact system.
VAZ 2106 is a car that has become a legend. Inexpensive, primitive in maintenance and repair, very unpretentious, comfortable and capacitive. This is the car, the one that many people choose today. Despite the fact that, in terms of its technical data, it is very similar to the famous seven, its suspension is much softer, more glorious on the go. An exceptional flaw is an outdated motor with a chain drive of the gas distribution mechanism. Finally, the chain is much stronger than the rubber used in belts. But it makes a powerful noise, its weight is large, and this affects the power of the motor. The ignition system in the six is of 2 types - contact and non-contact. For more precise adjustment of the ignition, you will first need to put the timing chain on the marks. To do this, remove the radiator and the cover that covers the mechanism. Drain all liquids in advance so that there is no loss. Remove the chain and install the camshaft and crankshaft according to the marks. This will balance the operation of the cylinders. Now put on the chain, damper, stretch all the threaded connections and assemble the knot. Install the heatsink last. Now you need to do it, based on which ignition system is used on your car.
Contact system
To carry out the work, you will need a 0.4 mm probe and a screwdriver. Remove the cover of the distributor, under it you will see a slider and a contact group. It turns out that you need to install the crankshaft according to the marks with the help of a 38 key. Looking from the front, you can see one mark on the pulley and three on the cover housing that covers the timing mechanism. The far right mark is 0 degrees of ignition timing, the middle mark is 5 degrees, and the left mark is 10 degrees. It is allowed to carry out adjustment by several methods: stroboscope; control lamp; for a spark by ear. The final method is the most inaccurate, but absolutely suitable for field repairs. You need to set the distributor shaft in such a way that the contacts are in the most open state. This location should correspond to the first cylinder. And we adjust the gap, one that should be no more than 0.4 mm. Otherwise, we make adjustments.
Contactless ignition system
Everything is a little simpler here, because there is no need to adjust the gap of the breaker. But the rest of the actions are reduced to the same as in the contact system. That is, it is necessary to set the crankshaft so that the piston in the first cylinder is at TDC. Also, the distributor is installed in the location corresponding to the first cylinder. Check the ignition setting with a stroboscope and start testing. Bring the engine to operating temperature and take a short trip. How does the car behave on the road? Does the motor cycle easily? Evaluate acceleration, throttle response, in case of unsatisfactory results, correct the ignition setting. When more tests were carried out on the road, the adjustment can be considered complete.
As you know, Oka cars are equipped with a rather imperfect 2-spark ignition system (similar to the options installed on some motorcycles). In general, the use of such a principle of organizing the ignition system cannot be called particularly vicious, however, due to the design features and the not too high quality of individual elements, it has a number of significant drawbacks. In particular, Oka owners are well aware of the existence of problems with starting these cars in winter (even a slightly “planted” battery simply cannot cope with maintaining a “two-stroke” spark). The state of isolation between the high-voltage and low-voltage circuits of standard two-spark coils does not stand up to criticism, as a result of which, due to moisture ingress and in wet weather, they fail very quickly. And, finally, such an unpleasant phenomenon as private "shots" in the muffler is also a consequence of the use of a two-spark ignition system - when an incompletely burned mixture is squeezed out by a piston into the intake manifold and, with the valves open, is ignited there by an "inoperative" spark.
Be that as it may, the need to modernize the ignition system of the VAZ - 1111 Oka is beyond doubt and at present three main methods are most widely used:
- Introduction into the system of a standard distributor from VAZ 2108 with high-voltage ignition distribution, one ignition coil and one switch (from the same place). At the same time, two of the four curtains are cut off in the spark moment sensor, or unnecessary candles are fixed in a neutral place in the engine compartment (it is forbidden to leave extra high-voltage wires without discharge).
- Installation of a combined two-spark block in an imported or domestic version of the all-in-one type (switch + coil);
- Installation of the coils of two oil-filled ignition coils from the VAZ 2108, as well as two switches with the combination of their inputs to the torque sensor output.
In general, any of these methods allows you to achieve a certain positive result, although each of them is not without some drawbacks. So the first method reduces the overall reliability of the system through the use of additional elements, namely a high-voltage distributor and several high-voltage wires. The second way is just using a more reliable version of the same two-spark system (if you can find decent equipment). Finally, the third method does not eliminate the problem of an "unnecessary" spark and is associated with energy costs for the second ignition coil.
Based on the foregoing, it makes sense to carry out a more original and effective modernization, namely, in the native spark sensor, leave only one shutter and add a pair of Hall sensors spaced 180 degrees into the system. In other words, it is proposed to implement the third option, with the elimination of its shortcomings by providing ignition in each of the cylinders using Hall sensors.
Preparatory work
- We are finalizing the DMI node for the possibility of connecting two Hall sensors (by replacing the standard connector with a connector with the required number of contacts);
- we cut off one of the DMI curtains under the base (the DMI will have to be disassembled), making sure that there are no chips and metal crumbs that can get into the magnetic gap of the Hall sensors;
- install high-quality injection candles with a gap of 1.1 mm (BOSCH WR7D + X will do);
- coils we use domestic type 27.3705;
- for compact placement of the switch one above the other, we grind brass spacers, providing a distance between the switches of about 27mm;
- "HORS" products with silicone caps are suitable as high-voltage wires. We additionally protect the wires from possible overheating with a heat-shrinkable tube.
Implementation Features
To ensure the normal operation of the system, the hall sensors must necessarily be of the same type (from the same batch), otherwise the direction of the magnets will be disturbed and, as a result, the DMI shutter will remagnetize. Simply put, the native sensor will have to be abandoned.
We carry out power wiring for plus 12V on the relay (in the standard version of blue-black color) with a wire with a cross section of at least 4 sq. mm, while a 2.5 mm stranded wire is sufficient for switches. It is better not to use regular wiring, as significant losses are observed on it.
For the signal part, you can take a shielded multi-core cable with a cross section of 0.2 mm (the screen will allow you to get rid of interference).
The main difficulty in manufacturing an upgraded ignition system is the need for precise location of the Hall sensors on the installation platform. The main problem is that the sensors must be installed with an accuracy of 0.1 mm opposite each other (relative to the circle passing through the centers of their slots). In any case, the mismatch of the sensors should not exceed 1 degree of rotation of the crankshaft. If this condition is not observed, a significant drop in engine power is observed. For the same reasons, it is necessary to follow the reliable fastening of all elements of the system.
The ignition timing is set according to the standard method.
Sparking torque sensor: 1 - front roller bearing holder; 2 - sensor support plate; 3 - screen; 4 - spring weight centrifugal regulator; 5 - regulator weight; 6 - leading plate of the centrifugal regulator; 7 - stuffing box; 8 - roller; 9 - clutch; 10 - bushing of the rear end of the roller; 11 - driven plate of the centrifugal regulator; 12 - vacuum regulator; 13 - fitting for vacuum supply; 14 - thrust; 15 - proximity sensor (Hall sensor); 16- body; 17 - block of wires of the Hall sensor; 18 - cover; a - scheme of operation of the centrifugal regulator; a - ignition timing.
Details of the spark moment sensor: 1 - clutch; 2 - body; 3 - vacuum ignition timing regulator; 4 - stuffing box; 5 - proximity sensor (Hall sensor); 6 - leading plate of the centrifugal regulator; 7 - centrifugal regulator weight; 8 - roller of the leading plate; 9 - spring; 10 - driven plate of a centrifugal regulator with a screen; 11 - lock washer; 12 - sensor support plate with bearing; 13 - bearing lock plate; 14 - front bearing holder; 15 - cover.
Diagram of a non-contact ignition system: 1 - ignition switch relay; 2 - ignition switch; 3 - fuse box; 4 - switch; 5 - spark moment sensor; 6 - ignition coil; 7 - spark plugs. The ignition system is non-contact. Consists of a spark torque sensor, a switch, an ignition coil, spark plugs, an ignition switch, and high and low voltage wires. Sparking moment sensor - type 5520.3706 (until 1989, a sensor of type 55.3706 was installed) with built-in vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing controllers. It sets the moment of sparking, depending on its initial setting, the number of revolutions of the crankshaft and the load on the engine. The reading of control pulses is based on the Hall effect. There is one pulse for each revolution of the crankshaft (two for each revolution of the camshaft). The initial ignition timing for the VAZ-1111 engine is -1 ± 1 ° to TDC, for the VAZ-11113 - 4 ± 1 ° to TDC. You can check the performance of the Hall sensor with a voltmeter by connecting it between the terminals of the green and white-black wires. Slowly rotating the shaft of the spark moment sensor, we monitor the readings of the voltmeter. The voltage should change sharply from the minimum (no more than 0.4 V) to the maximum (no more than 3 V less than the supply voltage). If a steel screen with slots touches the sensor (determined by a slight sticking or scratching sound during rotation of the roller, as well as after partial disassembly of the spark moment sensor), check the axial play of the roller (no more than 0.35 mm, adjustable by selecting washers) and the fit of the screen on roller. Replace the assembly if necessary. A faulty Hall sensor cannot be repaired and must be replaced with a new one (with the exception of a broken wire between the sensor itself and the block on the spark moment sensor housing). You can roughly assess the health of the vacuum regulator directly on the car. With the engine running, disconnect the vacuum hose leading to the regulator from the carburetor fitting. If you now create a vacuum in the hose (you can use your mouth), the engine speed should increase, and when the vacuum is removed, it will decrease again. The vacuum must be maintained for at least a few seconds if the hose is pinched. Visually, the performance of the vacuum regulator can be verified by partially disassembling the spark torque sensor (see "Removing and disassembling the spark torque sensor", p. 86) and applying vacuum to the regulator inlet fitting. In this case, the screen of the sparking moment sensor should rotate by an angle of 10 ± 1 °, and when the vacuum is removed, it should return without jamming. An accurate check and adjustment of the vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing controllers is carried out on special stands. It is not recommended to do this at home. If the vacuum regulator fails, it is replaced, if the centrifugal regulator fails, the spark moment sensor is replaced. Switch type 3620.3734, or 36.3734, or HIM-52 opens the power circuit of the primary winding of the ignition coil, converting the control pulses of the sensor into current pulses in the ignition coil. The commutator is checked with an oscilloscope using a special method; if a malfunction is suspected (interruptions in the operation of the engine, shots in the muffler), replace it with a known good one. It is forbidden to disconnect the switch connector with the ignition on - this can damage it (as well as other components of the ignition system). The ignition coil is two-pin, dry, type 29.3705 - with an open magnetic circuit, or type 3012.3705 - with a closed magnetic circuit. Data for verification: resistance of the primary winding at 25 ° C - (0.5 + 0.05) Ohm, secondary - (11 ± 1.5) kOhm. Insulation resistance to ground - not less than 50 MΩ. Spark plugs - type A17DVR, or A17DVRM, or their imported analogues (with noise suppression resistors with a resistance of 4-10 kOhm). The gap between the electrodes should be within 0.7-0.8 mm (checked with a round wire probe). High-voltage wires - type PVVP-8 with distributed resistance (2000±200) Ohm/m or PVPPV-40 with distributed resistance (2550±270) Ohm/m. Do not touch high-voltage wires while the engine is running - this can lead to electrical injury. It is also forbidden to start the engine or allow it to run with an open HIGH VOLTAGE circuit (pinched wires) - this can lead to burnout of the insulation and failure of the electronic components of the ignition system. Ignition switch type 2108-3704005-40 or KZ813 with anti-theft locking device, blocking against restarting the starter without first turning off the ignition. When the key is turned to the "ignition" position, voltage is applied to the control input of the additional relay type 113.3747-10, which, in turn, supplies voltage to the ignition coil and switch. Thus, the contacts of the ignition switch are unloaded.
To ensure the normal start of the motor in any weather, a huge number of different devices and parts are used. However, they are combined into one system - ignition (SZ). You will learn more about the SZ for the Oka car below. What functions does the Oka ignition coil do, what malfunctions are typical for SZ as a result, and how to set the advance angle - read below.
Long before we talk about how to set and adjust the ignition on the Oka at home in accordance with the scheme, it is necessary to understand the features of the NW.
The ignition system on any car means several different components, the main ones are:
- Sparking moment controller. This device is equipped with vacuum and centrifugal regulators. The device is designed to provide the problem of the moment of spark formation, taking into account its standard setting, the number of revolutions of the motor, and the load on the motor. The signal reading procedure is carried out on the basis of the Hall effect.
- A switching device designed to open the supply circuit of the primary winding of a short circuit, thus converting control signals into current pulses. When the ignition is activated, the connector of the switching device must not be disconnected under any circumstances, since this will damage not only this node, but also other parts of the SZ.
- Coil. In the ignition systems of Oka cars, in accordance with the scheme, a two-terminal short circuit with an open or closed magnetic circuit is used.
- Candles. This commonly heard element is designed to transmit a high-voltage pulse, which contributes to the ignition of a combustible mixture in the ICE cylinders. The service life of candles is about 10,000 km, alas, the myth indicator changes in a huge way in accordance with the specificity of the candles themselves. Or to the smallest, if for some reason the service life of the candles is reduced.
- High-voltage cable designed to connect spark plugs to a distributor. In the Oka, high-voltage devices with distributed resistance are used. It is impossible to touch them with the engine running, as this can be a prerequisite for severe injury. It is also forbidden to start the unit if the high-voltage circuit is broken (the wires are broken in another way, crumpled, you will like their insulation damaged). If the isolation is broken, then, of course, other elements of the accounting system will fail according to the scheme.
- Egnition lock. In accordance with the diagram, the lock is designed to start the motor by means of supplying voltage to an additional relay when the key is turned (video creator - Nail Poroshin).
Read also
Early ignition of the eye vaz1111
Of the defects of the SZ, it should be distinguished:
- Coil breakage. Such a discrepancy rarely happens, however, nevertheless, it sometimes happens.
- Trampler failure. You can read more about distributor defects, and additional troubleshooting, here.
- Deterioration of spark plugs or the occurrence of soot there. Such a problem is burning for most people of our fellow citizens. For information on why soot occurs and what methods are available to eliminate this problem, read here.
- Faulty high voltage wires. The wires are broken (broken) in other words, you will like them more, the insulation is broken. The operation of a car with such a discrepancy is not allowed.
- Ignition switch failure. Wear on the inside of the lock will lead to the fact that the driver will not be able to start the engine with the available key. The problem can be solved by changing the lock cylinder (video creator - Misha Burashnikov).
Read also
How to correctly set the lead angle:
- First you need to open the hood and remove the air filter. The angle diagnostic procedure is carried out at idle speed of the engine, while the crankshaft should operate at a frequency of about 850-900 rpm. The angle a itself may deviate from TDC by no more than one degree. In this case, if it is set erroneously, sometimes the motor overheats, and the machine is completely unable to develop the necessary power. Based on the car, the discrepancy also causes detonation.
- So that the set ignition angle does not lead to such consequences, it is first necessary to cooperate with the mark on the ICE flywheel with the usual risk on the scale. The first mark is located on the flywheel itself, the other is on the scale of the crankshaft rear oil seal. At this point, the piston in the cylinder will be placed at TDC. When setting, keep in mind that each division corresponds to two degrees of the crankshaft gate.
- Additionally, the procedure for the ignition option may have been made taking into account the marks located on the generator drive pulley on the timing belt guard. The longest mark should correspond to the installation of the piston of cylinder 1 in the TDC position. As for the short-term danger, it corresponds to an advance of 5 degrees of crankshaft rotation.
- It is necessary to disconnect the branch pipe attached to the vacuum regulator. Having done this, you can disconnect the high-voltage cable from the spark plug installed in cylinder 1. This common rumor wire will then need to be connected to the stroboscope - read the service book of the device before operation.
- After completing these actions, it is necessary to dismantle the rubberized plug from the clutch housing hatch. The luminous flux is simultaneously oriented into the crankcase hatch itself. Then, if the angle is set correctly, the risk will be between marks 2 and 3.
- Next, using a wrench, you need to loosen the three nuts that secure the spark sensor. If it is necessary to increase the torque, then the controller should be turned clockwise, respectively, if reduced, then counterclockwise. When the adjustment is completed, the nuts will need to be tightened.
To ensure the normal start of the engine in any weather, many different mechanisms and elements are used. But they are all combined into one system - ignition (SZ). We will tell you more about the SZ for the Oka car below. What functions does the Oka ignition coil perform, what malfunctions are typical for SZ as a whole and how to set the advance angle - read below.
Scheme of contactless SZ on the Oka Before we talk about how to set and adjust the ignition on the Oka with our own hands in accordance with the diagram, let's look at the features of the SZ.
The ignition system on any car includes several different components, the main ones are:
- Sparking moment controller. This device is equipped with vacuum and centrifugal regulators. The device is designed to provide the task of the moment of spark formation, taking into account its standard setting, the number of engine revolutions, as well as the load on the motor. The signal reading procedure is based on the Hall effect.
- The switching device is designed to open the supply circuit of the primary short-circuit winding, thus converting control signals into current pulses. When the ignition is activated, the connector of the switching device must not be disconnected in any case, since this will damage not only this node, but also other elements of the SZ.
- Coil. In the ignition systems of Oka cars, in accordance with the diagram, a two-terminal short circuit with an open or closed magnetic circuit is used.
- Candles. This element is designed to transmit a high-voltage pulse, which contributes to the ignition of the combustible mixture in the ICE cylinders. The service life of candles is about 10 thousand kilometers, but this figure can be changed upwards in accordance with the specifics of the candles themselves. Or less, if for some reason the service life of the candles is reduced.
- High-voltage cable designed to connect spark plugs to a distributor. The Oka uses high-voltage transformers with distributed resistance. Do not touch them while the engine is running, as this can cause serious injury. It is also forbidden to start the power unit if the high-voltage circuit is broken (the wires can be broken or crumpled, the insulation can be damaged on them). If the insulation is broken, then other elements of the system may fail in accordance with the scheme.
- Egnition lock. In accordance with the diagram, the lock is designed to start the engine by applying voltage to an additional relay when the key is turned (the author of the video is Nail Poroshin).
Typical system malfunctions
Of the malfunctions of the SZ, the following should be distinguished:
- Coil failure. This problem doesn't happen often, but it can happen nonetheless.
- Trampler failure. You can read more about distributor malfunctions, as well as troubleshooting, here.
- Wear of spark plugs or the appearance of soot on them. This problem is relevant for many of our compatriots. For information on why soot appears and what are the ways to fix this problem, read this article.
- Faulty high voltage wires. The wires may be broken (broken) or their insulation may be broken. The operation of a car with such a problem is not allowed.
- Ignition switch failure. Wear on the inside of the lock will result in the driver not being able to start the engine with the existing key. Replacing the lock cylinder will solve the problem (the author of the video is Mikhail Burashnikov).
Instructions for installing the ignition
How to correctly set the lead angle:
- First of all, you need to open the hood and dismantle the air filter. The angle diagnostic procedure should be carried out at idle engine speed, while the crankshaft should operate at a frequency of about 850-900 rpm. The angle itself can be deviated from TDC by no more than one degree. In the event that it is set incorrectly, the motor may overheat, and the machine as a whole will not be able to develop the necessary power. Depending on the car, the problem can also cause detonation.
- So that the set ignition angle does not lead to such consequences, you first need to combine the mark on the ICE flywheel with the average risk on the scale. The first mark is located on the flywheel itself, the second - on the scale of the crankshaft rear oil seal. At this point, the piston in the cylinder will be located at TDC. When setting, keep in mind that each division corresponds to two degrees of the crankshaft gate.
- In addition, the ignition adjustment procedure can be performed taking into account the marks located on the generator drive pulley and on the timing belt protective cover. The longest line should correspond to the setting of the piston of cylinder 1 to the TDC position. As for the short risk, it corresponds to a lead of five degrees of rotation of the crankshaft.
- You need to disconnect the pipe connected to the vacuum regulator. Having done this, you can disconnect the high-voltage cable from the candle installed in cylinder 1. This wire will later need to be connected to the stroboscope - read the service book of the device before use.
- After completing these steps, you need to dismantle the rubberized plug from the hatch of the clutch housing. In this case, the luminous flux must be directed into the crankcase hatch itself. In the event that the angle is set correctly, the risk will be between marks 2 and 3.
- Next, using a wrench, it is necessary to loosen the three nuts that secure the spark sensor. If you need to increase the torque, then the controller should be turned clockwise, respectively, if you decrease, then counterclockwise. When the adjustment is completed, the nuts will need to be tightened.
Photo gallery
1. Marks on the generator drive pulley 2. Grades on the flywheel and crankshaft oil seal holding scaleVideo "Instructions for replacing the ignition coil"
Learn more about how to replace the ignition coil in the Oka with your own hands, learn from the video below (author - Butovsky Gulyak's channel).
Repair VAZ 1111 (Oka): Setting the ignition timing
Before starting work
Remove the air filter.
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1. Description of the car 1.0 Description of the car 1.1 Appearance 1.2 Engine compartment 1.3 General data 1.4 Specifications 1.5 Passport data 1.6 Doors 1.7 Bonnet lock 1.8 Luggage compartment 1.9 Luggage compartment expansion
2. Safety requirements 2.0 Safety requirements 2.1 Safety requirements 2.2 Preparing the car for operation 2.3 What you need to have in the car 2.4 Operating the car during the warranty period 2.5 Breaking in the car 2.6 Preparing the car for departure 2.7 Checking the wheels 2.8 Checking the coolant level 2.9 Checking the oil level in the engine crankcase
3. Maintenance 3.0 Maintenance 3.1 Cooling system leak test 3.2 Cooling system leak test 3.3 Power system leak test 3.4 Brake system leak test 3.5 Coolant change 3.6 Thermostat function test 3.7 Engine oil and oil filter change 3.8 Air filter element replacement 3.9 Removal and installation of the air filter
4. Vehicle storage 4.0 Vehicle storage 4.1 Maintenance during storage 4.2 Removal from storage
5. Chassis 5.0 Chassis 5.1. Front suspension 5.2. Rear suspension
6. Steering 6.0 Steering 6.1 Steering wheel removal and installation 6.2 Steering intermediate shaft replacement 6.3 Steering shaft bearing replacement 6.4 Tie rod end and ball joint boot replacement 6.5 Steering gear removal and installation 6.6 Tie rod replacement
7. Brake system 7.0 Brake system 7.1. The forward brake mechanism 7.2. The back brake mechanism 7.3. Brake system drive 7.4. Parking brake
8. Electrical equipment 8.0 Electrical equipment 8.1. Block of fuses and relays 8.2. Generator 8.3. Ignition system 8.4. Lighting and signaling 8.5. A combination of devices 8.6. Switches and switches 8.7. Wipers and washers 8.8 Replacing the radiator fan motor
9. Body 9.0 Body 9.1 Removal and installation of the front buffer 9.2 Removal and installation of the rear buffer 9.3 Replacing the front wing 9.4 Removal and installation of the radiator lining 9.5. Hood 9.6. Side door 9.7. Back door 9.8. Rear-view mirrors 9.9. Seats 9.11. heater
10. The engine and its systems 10.0 The engine and its systems 10.1 Setting the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke 10.2 Adjusting the clearances in the valve drive 10.3. A belt of a drive of a camshaft 10.4. Replacement of details of consolidation of the engine 10.5. A head of the block of cylinders 10.6 Removal and installation of the power unit 10.7. Engine repair 10.8. Lubrication system 10.9. Cooling system 10.10. Power system 10.11. Exhaust system
11. Transmission 11.0 Transmission 11.1. Transmission 11.2. Coupling 11.3. Front wheel drives
12. Appendices 12.0 Appendices 12.1 Appendix: Tightening torques for threaded connections 12.2 Appendix: Fuels, lubricants and operating fluids 12.3 Appendix: Basic data for adjustments and control 12.4 Appendix: Filling volumes 12.5 Appendix: Lamps used in a car 12.6 Appendix: Bearing arrangement 12.7 Appendix: Oil seals 12.8 Appendix: Service book 12.9 Appendix: Vehicle wiring diagram
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Before starting work
Remove the air filter.
The ignition timing is checked and set at idle speed of the engine (at a crankshaft speed of 820–900 min–1). The angle must be within 1°± 1° before TDC.
If the ignition timing is set incorrectly, the engine overheats, does not develop full power, and detonation occurs.
| Check the ignition timing according to the risk on the flywheel and the scale of the holder of the rear oil seal of the crankshaft (the rubber plug is removed). When combining the risks on the flywheel with the middle division (cutout) on the scale, the piston of the first cylinder is set to TDC. One division on the scale corresponds to 2° of rotation of the crankshaft. | |
| The ignition timing can also be checked and set according to the marks on the alternator drive pulley and the front cover of the camshaft drive belt. The long mark corresponds to the installation of the first cylinder at TDC, the short mark corresponds to the ignition advance by 5 ° of the crankshaft rotation. These marks set the moment of ignition on the stand. |
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automn.ru
VAZ 1111 | Setting the ignition timing | Oka
Service and operation
Manuals ￫ VAZ ￫ 1111 (Oka)
Before starting work
Remove the air filter.
The ignition timing is checked and set at idle speed of the engine (at a crankshaft speed of 820–900 min–1). The angle must be within 1°± 1° before TDC.
