Flushing the oil channels of the engine priors. Car lubrication system - clean engine

12.10.2019

Effective engine flush. Engine cleaning methods that really work

How to keep your engine lubrication system clean for years to come. After all, this factor is one of the most important for the health of the engine during the operation of the car. What is it for, let's see. Sludge, slag, carbon - all this is the result of the combustion process in the engine. When we buy a car, due to lack of time, money, etc., we simply forget about proper car maintenance. And this drags on for a long time, during which the sediment in the form of combustion products settles on engine parts. Due to which their friction increases - metal on metal, respectively, destruction occurs.

The oil filter does not always cope with its task, and microparticles that do not fall under the filter begin to circulate in the engine, causing microscopic scratches, damage to the cylinder walls and bearings. Valves begin to stick, hydraulic lifters knock, pistons are disrupted, causing engine oscillations. Then the owner of the car wonders why the engine is eating oil in liters per 1000 km. where such a high fuel consumption. Here is the result of the car owner's inaction, see the picture below. This motor has not passed even 30,000 km. See what condition it's in.

Why flush the engine

What to do, you ask? And nothing to do, it is necessary to wash, that's all.
Many are skeptical about flushing the engine, for good reason. A lot of junk appeared on the market supposedly flushing, which in their composition have an ultra-high solvent and are in no way suitable for the engine. Don't pay attention to cheap washes.

DO NOT take the first one that comes across from the store shelf.
A good flush is a product that restores compression in the engine cylinders, effectively works to remove sludge, dirt, while not only letting it fall off, but also dissolving it so that it does not clog the channels and is easy to remove from the mixture system.
Also, a good flush should cover all microscopic defects in the motor, and restore both oil seals, and all rubber seals.

Pluses and minuses of washings for the engine.

Bad flush:
- Corrosion of the oil seal, as a result of engine leakage
- Loss of compression
- Increased oil consumption
- loss of power
- clogged channels in the engine

Benefits of a good flush:
- Restored engine compression (You can do a test before and after application)
- reduced fuel and oil consumption
- Sludge cleaning
- The car becomes more responsive, lighter
- Engine noise is reduced
- Has TUV RUF ROHS approval

Ways to clean a car engine

Let's look at several ways to effectively clean the engine of carbon deposits and sludge.

1. In parts stores, you can find such a product as, for example, engine oil with a viscosity of SAE 40. This is a seasonal summer product that has a fairly high detergency and effectively cleans the engine.

Drain the used engine oil and refill this oil without changing the oil filter. Start the engine and run at idle for about 15-30 minutes, you can ride a little.
Then drain the oil, most likely it will be black, as it will collect all the dirt that has collected on the walls, parts, etc. Repeat everything done earlier until the color of the oil is the same as you filled it.

This is one of the best ways to flush the engine, and after clean oil is drained, you will be sure that the engine is clean.
Result. After this method of washing in the engine of the problematic Ford Explorer 1992, oil and fuel consumption decreased, the engine began to run quieter, the car became smoother and more responsive.

2. The second way is to wash the engine well.
Flushing from Liquid Moli Engine flush - in the common people, has long deserved recognition. It is poured into the engine into the used oil, the engine warms up for about 10 minutes and then drains. Great product, easy to use and most importantly effective.

Always take it as a consumable when changing engine oil. Long-term flushing is also suitable here, if everything is completely bad.

Fill it up for 300 km. before the shift, the cleaning will already begin.

Lambda Oil Primer.

Here's another interesting and super effective car engine flush - Lambda Oil Primer.

This product is approved by TUV, ROHS and VAG. Works well in restoring engine compression. Many who used it simply craved to do a compression test before and after application. The results were excellent after washing. Perfect cleanliness and operation of the motor, as well as its subsequent protection.
It is applied in petrol and diesel engines. One of the best premium washes in the world.

As for the characteristics of the product:
Effectively cleans the oil lubrication system, preventing problems associated with the accumulation of sludge, dirt, deposits. After cleaning, clean oil in a clean engine is guaranteed for many kilometers.
It is applied both in the engine, and gearboxes and differentials. It contains a lubricant that protects mechanical parts during the cleaning process.
Suitable for all types of modern and old benz. and diz. engines. added to any motor oil.

When changing the oil, many motorists resort to flushing the oil system. The engine operation is delicate, has its own nuances, which everyone who is going to do it on their own should be aware of.

1 Flushing the engine - in what cases it is resorted to

The opinion about mandatory flushing every time the used oil is drained is erroneous. If the car was bought in the salon, the service is timely and high-quality, there is no need to flush. Modern engine oils are fortified with additives that help clean the engine. These components collect all the dirt, and it is removed along with the drain. The use of flushing fluids in this case can only cause harm: additives from their composition that are unnecessary in this case are mixed with oil residues, which will subsequently affect the quality of the newly filled oil.

Flushing the engine oil system is necessary in specific cases:

buying a car with a mileage of 100 thousand km or more;
unforeseen situation;
changing the type of oil;
on a turbocharged engine;
when the engine is completely disassembled.

If you bought an old car with high mileage, the service history of which is unknown to the new owner, it is advisable to resort to flushing before a complete oil change. It is recommended to use a gradual transition: first we use one of the flushing oils, then we fill in an inexpensive motor oil. It must match the type of engine. We drive 1–2 thousand km on it, then it should be drained and filled with the type that we plan to use in the future.

It happens that you have to urgently add a little oil of a different type or use a liquid of unknown origin. Sometimes the quality is questionable. In all cases, we replace it with a high-quality lubricant as soon as possible, but before that we always resort to flushing.

If it is necessary to change from one type of oil to another, flushing is mandatory. The fact is that there is always some amount of old oil left in the engine. Different types cannot always mix, deposits are formed that can forget the oil channels. In this case, types are understood as types: mineral, synthetics, semi-synthetics, and viscosity, as well as manufacturers.

Fans of a sporty driving style, owners of cars with a turbocharged engine, flushing is necessary at every oil change. During sports driving, the engine is intensively used, its wear is increased, and a turbocharged one requires perfect cleanliness. Such motors need to be constantly flushed so that they work for a long time and normally.

2 Flushing oils – what the industry has to offer

In Russia, there is a large selection of flushing oils, where they are very popular, unlike in the West. They have a synthetic or mineral base, but are enriched with cleaning additives in large quantities. Such products are able to dissolve harmful deposits on internal surfaces and remove them from the oil system. Consider brands with a standard volume of 4 liters.

Among them, Flush oils stand out. From this series, Zic cleans the system very well, does not have a destructive effect on oil seals and other polymer products. The new lubricating fluid does not suffer from the harmful effects of flushing agent residues, does not oxidize. Eneos from the same line also perfectly cleans, prevents deposits from settling on the surface, preventing channel clogging.

Liqui Moly product effectively cleans the system, one of the leaders among cleaning products for powertrains. They are well removed accumulated slag, channels and surfaces are washed.

Among other means, Lukoil products are worthy of attention. It contains a complete package of additives that have the ability to increase wear resistance, high-quality dirt removal. "Lakiris" is distinguished by the presence of antioxidant and detergent additives, due to which dirt, carbon deposits, and slags are qualitatively removed. TNK Promo Express products have found application in car service and private car owners.

There are two types, the difference of which is in the method of application. Some are poured into the engine, and flushing is carried out at idle. Others are added to the old lubricating fluid, after which the car is operated up to 200 km or less, in accordance with the instructions for use. It is forbidden to load the motor in this case. It should be noted that the second flushing oils are almost never used because of the risk of damaging the motor. They can also harm omentums because they contain many active substances.

Flushing oils for gasoline and diesel engines are available with different additives, so you should only use those designed for a specific type of engine.

3 Oil system cleaner concentrates - selection criteria

In addition to flushing oils, flushing concentrates, which are called five-minutes, are popular among motorists. When choosing them, you should pay attention to some factors:

The volume contained in the package should be 450 ml or so. The drug, packaged in 10 mg, mostly contains surfactants, the action of which is not to dissolve the dirt, but to exfoliate it. Clumped dirt can clog oil passages and cause engine damage. The presence of surfactants is indicated by the presence of sulfates, sulfatonate, and alkyne benzene in the concentrate.
We pay attention to whether a viscosity corrector is included in the composition, which prevents the oil from thinning. They insure the engine against breakdown during flushing, may have additional useful properties: the ability to decoke, rejuvenate oil seals and rubber gaskets.
We choose preparations taking into account the motor: for those with significant mileage, we use sparing products without aggressive substances that can damage old gaskets, oil seals, hydraulic compensators. For engines with a turbine, we use special tools designed for it.
After flushing, look through the oil filler neck into the engine. No traces of foam should be observed on the parts, no smell uncharacteristic of the oil should be felt, otherwise the flush contained surfactants. A high-quality concentrate evaporates from the system, leaving no traces or odor. You should not use this type of flush again.

It should be remembered that engine flushing is used for prevention, and not for engine repair, therefore, the choice of drugs should be approached responsibly, having selected a quality product once, it is recommended to use it in the future.

4 Using flushing oils - how to use them correctly

For every driver who independently changed the oil, it will not be difficult to flush the engine. The procedure is almost the same. First, we warm up the engine, unscrew the drain plug and wait until the used lubricant has completely drained. We twist the cork in the pan and fill in the flushing agent. Its quantity is the same as that of conventional motor oil. The level is controlled by the dipstick, preferably closer to the max mark. It should be borne in mind that a certain amount of old oil remains in the engine, so you should not focus only on the volume of the canister, we look at the dipstick.

We start the engine and let it idle. We check the duration with the instructions on the package, because for different flushing oils it may differ slightly. In no case do not gas: the viscosity of the product is lowered. Idling the engine will not cause harm, but loads can lead to scuffing. Then we turn off the cork in the pan and drain the spent product. We unscrew the old oil filter, change it to a new one, wrap the plug and fill in a new lubricant.

Studies conducted by experts from the magazine "Behind the Wheel" showed that the viscosity of the new oil drops somewhat. This is due to the influence of the remnants of the flushing agent, but for the further operation of the engine, the fall is insignificant, it is not capable of harming the motor. The amount of deposits has dropped noticeably, but complete cleaning cannot be achieved in this way. As for metallic impurities, they were almost all removed along with the flushing oil.

5 Quick cleaning - using five minutes and similar products

Five minutes are poured into the system before replacing the used oil. Their use is due to the ability to restore the cleaning ability of old oil. We let the engine idle for a short time: we read the instructions and follow the recommendations. Then we act as usual: drain the waste, change the filter, fill in new oil.

Five minutes have excellent properties that allow you to wash dirt on the crankcase walls without problems. All slags are removed together with used oil. The attitude towards five-minutes among motorists is not unambiguous. There is an opinion that pieces of deposits that fall off the walls clog the oil receiver mesh, channels, filter, which causes the engine to jam. Another common belief is that polymer parts suffer from such products, the engine will definitely leak. However, the product is produced in many countries and is popular.

The conducted studies have shown that even a very dirty lubrication system can be washed with the indicated means almost to its original appearance. True, it may not be necessary to wash once, but multiple times. The aggressiveness of the additives contained in the five-minutes should be pointed out, therefore, the instructions for their use should be strictly followed. If it is said to start the engine and let it idle for 5 minutes, then this must be done strictly.

Quick cleaning should only be used for very dirty engines, in other cases it is better to use other methods.

6 Gentle flushing - using motor oils

The method is considered very gentle and careful. There is no danger of damage to oil seals and gaskets, used and fresh oil are fully compatible. The application is elementary: we use oils that we use constantly or use cheap ones of the same type. After filling, we drive up to 1000 km and merge. After that, the oil is replaced with new oil and the filter is changed.

Detergency from this method is low. Slags are carried out, which managed to break away from the walls earlier, but their main part remains untouched. Or you need to drive a long distance for a long time so that the power unit is gradually washed off dirt. You can again use the same scheme, changing the lubricant first after 1000 km, then after 4-5.

Such step-by-step cleaning effectively removes carbon deposits, sludge, and old oil residues. The use of base oil for flushing is justified because it contains less aggressive detergent active additives than in the flushing agent. The method is expensive, as you will have to make frequent oil changes until a liquid begins to drain that is similar in color and consistency to the new oil.

7 When and what flush to use - our tips

First you need to make sure that flushing is necessary. We remove the oil filler cap, lighting with a flashlight, we evaluate the condition. If we see a pure metallic sheen, then it should not be washed. The type of parts indicates the same state of the entire system. To flush the engine, you should have good reasons, prevention in this case is useless.

The next step is to check the condition of the oil. Even a used one can say a lot about the state of the lubrication system. We use a drop test. On a piece of porous paper, for example, newspapers, we apply a drop of cold oil from the dipstick. We look at the result: if it quickly blurs with the formation of concentric circles, the engine is clean. We make a replacement without additional cleaning, since the period of use has expired, and the system is clean. The black dot, which does not spread, says that the lubricant needs to be urgently replaced, and if traces of contamination are also visible through the neck, then with flushing.

Experts recommend using combined flushing in this case. First, we use the concentrate, which we add to the used oil. Drain, remove residues with flushing oil, preferably twice. Using additives for long-term cleaning to drive 200 km is dangerous - a heavily contaminated lubricant may not last. Pour half the dose of fresh oil to be used. Let the engine run at idle. Even if dirt remains after flushing procedures and it clogs the channels, the engine will not die at idle: the pressure will simply drop after 1–1.5 hours of idling.

8 Oil and cleaning residues - how to remove completely

Regardless of whether the system was cleaned or just an oil change, there is always some amount of fluid that degrades the quality of the lubricant. These residues should be removed. This can be done in several ways, even in a garage. After draining the old oil, we install a new filter, fill up to two liters of new, start the car and let it idle a little. Drain, install a new filter and fill in the required amount of new oil.

The second method requires a compressor. We insert the hose into the hole of the oil dipstick and pump air under a pressure of 3 atm. Unscrew the drain plug and filter in turn. Cleaning is quite effective, it allows you to blow old oil out of the system. We fill in new grease, which will be diluted with the old one minimally, which will practically not affect its quality.

Continuing the theme of flushing the engine and its systems, it should be noted that during operation it is often necessary to flush. This flushing of the oil system may be required for a variety of reasons, from switching to a different type of engine oil to emergency malfunctions.

As a rule, the reason for the immediate flushing of the lubrication system is a hit, as a result of which. Even taking into account the fact that motor oil itself has a whole package of not only protective, but also detergent and dispersant components, these properties may not be enough.

In other words, after filling, fresh oil is simply not able to qualitatively wash the surfaces of parts and channels in the engine from various deposits, sediment and other by-products that form after mixing with the coolant.

Next, we will talk about what to do after antifreeze has been detected in the engine lubrication system, how to flush the engine after eliminating the root cause of the malfunction, and how to flush the engine from the emulsion or its residue.

Read in this article

Flushing the engine oil system: when needed

So, antifreeze or antifreeze can enter the lubrication system for various reasons, but damage is most often the culprit. Rarely formed. In any case, the result of mixing oil and coolant is an emulsion.

This phenomenon is very dangerous for the motor, since the lubricant loses its properties, wear increases significantly, and other elements and assemblies in. Moreover, water and ethylene glycol, mixed in certain proportions and, in fact, representing coolant, after getting into the oil, cause various contaminants to coagulate.

Simply put, the dirt in the lubrication system literally sticks together. Additives in oil and antifreeze after mixing react and quickly decompose, the oil immediately oxidizes, etc. Large "lumps" consisting of deposits can even clog the oil receiver filter screen, as a result it begins.

At the same time, it is important to take into account that, for example, after replacing the cylinder head gasket, it will not be possible to completely drain the “working out” from the motor. This means that filling in a new portion of fresh lubricant, the lubricant will also mix with the remnants of the emulsion, unwanted deposits will still form in the oil channels and on the internal surfaces of the engine.

If the engine is not additionally flushed, a similar situation will be repeated for at least another 2-3 replacements. We also note that similar recommendations also apply when, for some reason, the oil change interval was violated (for example, the lubricant was replaced not after 10 thousand km, but after 15 thousand). Also, flushing is recommended, if necessary, add third-party oil when necessary, etc.

At the same time, it may be necessary to flush the engine if the owner has purchased a used used car, and the service history of a particular car is unknown or questionable. It often happens that after an oil change on such a machine, (literally after 50-100 km. Run).

Finally, it is also worth highlighting the possible filling of low-grade oil into the engine. Among motor oils, unfortunately,. Naturally, after discovering this fact, it is necessary to remove the surrogate from the internal combustion engine, then the engine must be flushed without fail.

A counterfeit product is usually indicated by a strong and rapid blackening of the lubricant, an unpleasant pungent odor, the appearance of black deposits under the valve covers, turbidity of the oil, a significant change in its viscosity for no apparent reason, an increase in lubricant consumption, etc.

How to flush the engine from emulsion, dirt and deposits

It is quite obvious that if you need to wash the engine from the inside, then you need a good flush for the engine. A large number of various compositions are on sale.

In practice, all products can be divided into two groups:

additives in mining;

At the same time, choosing the best engine flushing agent is not so simple. First of all, you need to start from a specific situation. If you just need to flush the lubrication system before changing the oil, and we are not talking about removing emulsion residues or a counterfeit product, then the usual “five minutes” may be quite enough.

The only thing is that this method should be used with caution on older motors. The fact is that on long runs the unit will definitely be contaminated, while the “five-minutes” are very aggressive and separate the accumulated deposits in the sump, but do not dissolve them. Such deposits may well clog the oil receiver with all the ensuing consequences.

It should also be remembered that quick flushes into oil can also have a negative effect on gaskets, oil seals and other seals. Cases have been noted when, after applying oil flushes, the engine began to leak.

In case of more serious contamination, it is better to use ready-made flushing oils that are filled into the engine in full instead of the base oil. Depending on the type of such a flushing composition, the unit must either work only at idle, or short-term driving is allowed with minimal loads on the internal combustion engine.

Such washing is less aggressive to rubber seals compared to the "five-minute" ones, and also washes dirt and deposits more thoroughly. We also note that flushing oils are synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral, and are also universal. In other words, they can be used both in gasoline and.

At the same time, the risk of “clogging” the channels and filters (for example, in the oil receiver mesh) with muddy dirt is still present, but it is not so high compared to a quick flush into engine oil.

First of all, before filling in a new lubricant, it is important to remove the old oil from the engine in a quality manner. In other words, you need to try to merge as much as possible.

Also, after flushing the engine, if possible, you should also get rid of the maximum amount of flushing oil so that the residues are mixed in a minimum amount with fresh grease.

To do this, it is better to travel a little by car, warming up the engine in motion. Only after that the car is installed horizontally on a flat area, then the drain plug is unscrewed. By the way, the grease should drain by gravity. It is not recommended to use other methods of draining and pumping out the oil (for example, vacuum suction through the oil filler neck, etc.).

We also note that even before the start of flushing, regardless of the flushing agent, it is necessary. As part of the flush, you can put the simplest and cheapest.

If this is not done, the flushing composition will dissolve the dirt in the old filter, and then sour deposits from other areas will be added to this. As a result, the throughput of the filter will be greatly reduced, the bypass valve will open and contaminants can get back into the engine.

Having decided on what you can flush the engine with when changing the oil, it is important to understand that before using flushing oil or "five minutes" you need to carefully study the instructions. It is strongly recommended to follow all instructions of the manufacturer of a particular composition.

Also, flushing should not be overdone in the engine, load the engine when driving on flushing oil, accelerate at idle or use quick flushes into oil, etc. Also, after applying flushing fluids and pouring fresh oil, it is better to reduce the interval for its subsequent replacement by 30-50%.

This approach eliminates the possibility of increased wear of the internal combustion engine as a result of the loss of useful properties of the new oil after contact with the remnants of the previously used flush.

Causes of engine oil starvation

There may be several reasons.

There is not enough oil in the engine - low level, someone pierced and did not top up
The oil has not been changed for a long time, thickened, gathered in pieces along the walls of the engine and does not drain into the sump
Clogged oil sump
Clogged oil filter and bypass valve stuck
Oil nozzles jammed open and system pressure dropped
The pressure relief valve on the oil pump is broken and oil flows back through it
Clogged oil channels
Come up with a reason yourself (if possible, write in the comments, what other reasons could be)

1. Any engine consumes oil for waste - some more, some less. If you do not look at the hood for a long time and do not check the oil level, then at one fine moment the oil will become so small that it will no longer reach the oil receiver. First, this will happen when the car leans over, climbing the hill, then when the turn takes place at speed and the oil, under the action of centrifugal force, rushes away from the oil receiver. It is, of course, trifles, but gradually the oil will become less and less, but it will stop flowing to the most remote corners of the engine.

2. When the oil is not changed for a long time, some kind of thick and non-fluid fuel oil is formed in it, which likes to collect on the walls of the block and in the head. The liquid fraction is getting smaller, and from here we look at point 1. This happens especially often on modern cars, on which the manufacturer recommends extended oil change intervals (Long Life, up to 30,000 km). And if not very responsible craftsmen come across at the service, who will not drain all the old oil, there will be problems. Change the oil at least once every 10,000, and even more often is better.

3. Those dung that form in the old oil (see point 2) can clog the oil receiver screen and then the oil will stop flowing into the lubrication system. Although the grid is clogged for other reasons.

4. The oil filter consists of a housing and a paper filter element itself. All the smallest particles of dirt clog the pores in the paper and over time the throughput of the filter is lost. In order to prevent oil starvation when the filter is clogged (usually this does not happen if you change the oil on time, although it also depends on the air filter and operating conditions on dusty roads how much dirt gets into the engine), a bypass valve is provided in the filter - in in the normal position it is closed, but as soon as the capacity is lost, the valve opens under the action of the vacuum created by the oil pump. When the valve sticks, naturally oil will not be taken from anywhere, and less and less oil with less pressure will circulate through the lubrication system.

5. Some engines, mostly turbocharged, have oil jets that spray oil on the pistons to cool them. The nozzles open under pressure, and when there is no oil pressure in the system, they close. If the nozzle is faulty and opens, then the pressure in the system will decrease, which means that the oil will not reach the remote corners of the engine. Although if you have a budget foreign car with a low-power engine, such as a Ford Focus or Chevrolet Aveo, then you should not worry - they do not have such a system.

6. The oil pump has a relief valve that is designed to relieve excess pressure. If it seizes, then the pressure in the system will drop, especially at low speeds, which will lead to oil starvation.

7. The engine lubrication system consists of oil channels. The most vulnerable part is the crankshaft. The crankshaft has oil channels through which oil flows from the main journals to the connecting rods. These channels are very narrow and can very easily become clogged with all sorts of dirt, which will lead to oil starvation of the connecting rod bearings.

8. You can think of some other reasons, if you missed something, write in the comments

Consequences of engine oil starvation

The consequences are terrible. For example, when the crankshaft rotates, it does not come into contact with the liners, there is always oil between them, the so-called oil wedge. But when there is not enough oil, it stops flowing to the crankshaft and liners, then this oil wedge disappears and the shaft begins to rub against the liners and the shaft wedges due to friction and the resulting temperature increase, but since it continues to rotate by inertia, this wedge breaks, the more thereby tearing out the surface layer of metal from both surfaces. The result is an insert in foil, deep scuffs on the crankshaft.

If the oil pressure methodically gradually begins to decrease in the system, that is, it passes through the pipeline less, the connecting rod bearings of the crankshaft will suffer first of all, since they are located the farthest and the oil approaches them according to the residual principle.

But before that, the hydraulic lifters are likely to knock (unless, of course, they are), and the turbine also suffers very much from oil starvation.

If at one moment the oil suddenly stopped flowing into the lubrication system, then most likely the main bearings will go first of all, since they are closest to the pump and receive the first batch of oil.

It is very difficult and expensive to restore such an engine - in addition to replacing the liners, you need to grind the crankshaft if it falls within the repair size or buy a new one.