Do on the road the way you want others to do with you! Pass the hindrance on the right and the fool on the left!

What the driver needs first of all

- Responsibility: you must take care of the safety - your own, your passengers and all other road users.

- Concentration: do not drive if you feel tired or unwell, think about something distracted, frustrated or irritated, stressed.

- Ability to predict the situation: constantly analyze the behavior of other road users, act in accordance with the traffic situation.

- Patience: do not turn riding into a competition and return rudeness to rudeness, use aggressive language or gestures, try to teach another driver a lesson if he caused you inconvenience; be patient if the car in front cannot move for a long time - the driver may have good reasons; don't test your patience (and don't take unnecessary risks) - don't get too close to the car driven by the student, increase the distance and lateral spacing; do not test the patience of others - do not overtake only to wedge between the cars in front or immediately make a turn.

- Confidence: this is an integral part of driving skills, but remember - unjustified risk leads to an accident!

Safe Driving Techniques

1. Don't rush - it's better to be 10 minutes late than to arrive 10 minutes early.
2. Before driving, make sure it is safe, do not start driving if you interfere with approaching cars.
3. Turn on the turn signals in advance and turn them off in time.
4. Do not exceed the set speed by more than 30 km/h.
5. Don't let yourself be distracted by talking if it affects your driving.
6. When talking on the phone, use the speakerphone.
7. Don't use headphones.
8. Don't look at maps and guides.
9. Don't smoke.
10. Do not turn to the rear passengers - all attention to the road.
11. Maintain the correct (safe) distance and lateral spacing.
12. Move smoothly and stop smoothly.
13. Don't drive with a hangover.
14. Do not accelerate the car in front of a pedestrian crossing where there is no one - a pedestrian may appear unexpectedly.
15. You can not: squeeze the clutch, turn on 1st gear and wait for the green traffic light to turn on.
16. When driving in reverse- turn on the alarm.
17. When reversing, the speed should not exceed 20 km / h, and the travel distance should be minimal.
18. When reversing, turn down the radio volume.
19. Set the horn to reverse gear.
20. Always turn on low beam headlights.
21. Don't skimp on antifreeze liquid, windshield everything must be clean!
22. Turn on turn signals in yards.
23. Before pressing the brake pedal, look in the rear-view mirror (estimate the distance to rear car and its speed).
24. Don't tint your car windows (in your first year of driving).
25. Set signs "novice driver" (if you are a beginner).
26. Do not change lanes in front of and on a pedestrian crossing.
27. If you are going to sneeze, then first release the gas pedal.

Two is impossible

1. Be blind (turn your head 360 degrees).
2. Be deaf (listen to the road).

property security

1. Once in the car, block the door locks.
2. Do not leave the car if the engine is running or the keys are in the lock ignition.

Learn to read the road

1. Maintain the path of your vehicle by observing the center of the travel path.
2. Look as far ahead as possible, this will help you notice the danger in advance.
3. Actively observe changes in the situation not only on the carriageway, but also in the surrounding area.
4. Do not hold your gaze for a long time on one object (more than 2 seconds).
5. Keep an eye on the back and sides of your vehicle at all times.
6. Before changing lanes, turning or entering a main road, make sure that the place you want to take is free in advance.
7. The more your speed, the wider your eyes should be.

Driving in difficult conditions

1. Avoid road sections with oil, oil and tarspots.
2. Do not drive into puddles at a speed greater than 50 km/h.
3. If the road is covered with melting ice, avoid driving in light traffic lanes.
4. Perform an overtaking maneuver only when necessary.
5. Beware of wet leaves, snow and sand drifts.

The list of malfunctions in which it is dangerous to drive a car

1. Brake lights do not work.
2. The sound signal does not work.
3. Not working hand brake.
4. Turn signals do not work.
5. Alarm not working.
6. Level brake fluid V expansion tank decreases (lower risks min) - you have to top up often.

Rules for driving a car on a roundabout

1. Maintain a safe distance from the car in front, a multiple of the interval between the lighting poles:
- at the speed of movement ~ 50 km / h - 0.5 intervals;
- at the speed of movement ~ 100 km / h - 0.75 intervals;
- at the speed of movement ~ 150 km / h - 1.0 interval.
2. Turn on the turn signal when changing lanes (always).
3. If you are moving in the 3rd - 4th lane and you are often overtaken on the right - think about it, maybe you should change lanes to the next right lane. Observe the speed limit and traffic lane!

Crib for pedestrians

1. Do not cross the road (even on a zebra), walk calmly.
2. Do not run, do not walk along the road.
3. Don't ride your bike on the road.
4. When crossing the road (on a bicycle) along the green (on a zebra), take your time, move about walking speed.
5. Cross the road perpendicularly.
6. Do not cross the road when a hood is on your head.
7. Don't cross the road listening loudmusic through headphones.
8. When crossing the road with animals, keep them on a short leash.
9. When crossing the road with a stroller, keep it to the side.
10. When crossing the road, lift the child from the sled.
11. When crossing the road with a child, hold him by the hand or in your arms.
12. When crossing the road, look: left and right.
13. It is desirable that one of the outerwear wardrobe items be light color or reflective reflectors were present (in the dark, the driver may not notice the pedestrian).

Axioms when operating a car

1. Understand the rules traffic and memorize them (you need to understand the order of passage of all types of intersections, etc.).
2. Make an algorithm of actions when driving and operating a car to various situations(learn it by heart).
Example: a start is required injection engine at minus 20 degrees.
A. turn on the side lights for 30 seconds.
b. set the gearshift lever to neutral position (if necessary, raise the parking brake lever).
V. turn all switches to the off position » .
depress the clutch pedal.
e. turn the key to the "ignition" position » , pause for 5 seconds, turn to the position "stater » , after starting the engine, release the key.
e. Release the clutch pedal smoothly after ~ 30 seconds.
(if during the execution of paragraph "d » the engine does not start within 10 - 15 seconds, release the key, wait 15 seconds and repeat paragraph "d» ).
3. Yield to the hindrance on the right and the fool on the left.
4. Always turn on turn signal signals when changing the trajectory of movement (if, when changing lanes, the driver does not notice the obstacle and starts the lane change maneuver, then the other driver, having seen the turn signal signal, will be able to avoid an accident).
5. Always make smooth maneuvers when changing lanes (if you do not notice the obstacle, the other driver can avoid the accident).
6. Turn on low beam headlights - always.
7. Choose the right speed (it depends: on your skills and traffic situation).
8. If you have not driven a car for more than two months, drive in a quiet mode: on unloaded streets, in the morning.
9. Gravel and stones on the road are dangerous, there is a possibility of them hitting the windshield (increase the distance and reduce the speed).
10. Reduce your speed when entering a tunnel (to adjust your eyes to the new light).
11. Driving on tram rails is dangerous! Causes:
- possible rupture and cut of the tire;
- on studded tires - pulling out studs and skidding;
- during rain - increase stopping distance and skid.
12. Do not litter the car interior (there is a trunk for this):
- a forgotten bottle can roll under the pedals;
- do not hang toys on the rear-view mirror, this reduces visibility;
- on the rear panel - it is dangerous to store sharp and heavy objects.
13. In the first year of driving, do not tint the windows, in the future - only with a high-quality film, not the darkest.
14. Don't tint rear lights vehicle, the driver of the rear vehicle may not see a change in the brightness of the brake lights.
15. Wear your seat belts
(according to accident statistics and crash tests, injuries are aggravated if the seat belt is not used).
16. If the car is equipped with airbags:
- everyone must be fastened;
- do not put your hands on the lowered windows if there are side airbags;
- transport the child on his back in the direction of travel front seat it is forbidden;
- you can not install anything in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe inscription "AIRBAG » , as well as along the expected trajectory of the opening of the pillow;
- Wearing glasses may cause injury.
Do not dismantle/install the airbag yourself - injury may result!
17. Distance (safe):
- when moving in a stream - at least 5 meters;
- when stopping on the rise - at least 2 meters;
- when stopping in front of a traffic light - from 1 to 1.5 meters.
18. Do not drive:
- in a state of alcoholic intoxication;
- if you are very tired;
- if you are under stress.
19. If a difficult or unusual situation has arisen on the road, you should not rush and give acceleration, wanting to quickly slip through the dangerous section (according to the rules of good manners, at this moment everyone is equal, like in a bathhouse).
20. Technical condition car - carefully check before long trip:
- suspension
- camber/toe-in/balancing/pressure
- brake system
- filters (fuel and air)
- air conditioning (pressure)
- fluids (their level and replacement period): automatic transmission, engine, cooling, brake.

Car repair

1. Before you install new part into the car instead of the damaged one - carefully inspect it yourself, ask the master to check it for serviceability. Responsibly approach the check, remember if the part turns out to be faulty, this can lead to breakdown of other components and assemblies.
2. Leaving the workshopdo not accelerate - on the first meter, do a test braking.

How to push a car (if it broke down)

Lower the glass of the left driver's door, rest your left hand on the glass frame and move the car in the right direction, steering with your right hand (while the key must be in the ignition).

How to install a license plate securely

- option 1: fasten with bolts - generously lubricate the thread with graphite grease or lithol, tighten with the first nut, lock the second;
- option 2: fix with rivets.


Driving lessons are held in all districts of St. Petersburg.
You can sign up for a driving lesson by calling
8-921-347-67-57,
We will arrange a meeting time and place convenient for you.
We will be happy to help you gain confidence behind the wheel of a car, overcome fears and worries. Just give us a call!

It's no secret that there are more and more cars and drivers every year. But alas, not all newly minted drivers can boast of good skills. Their impatience and weak attentiveness can sometimes not slightly spoil the nerves of those around them. best case. At worst, it can lead to an accident.

For the sake of general safety on the road, all drivers, without exception, should be as focused as possible on proper management with your car. The driver must correctly assess the situation and the behavior of other road users.

Tips to help you avoid some driving difficulties.

• Before you set off, it is worth checking the position of the rear-view mirrors (both internal and external) and fasten your seat belts.
• It is necessary to strictly regulate the speed of your car, and keep a distance from other vehicles.
• If you have to stop due to bad weather conditions, you should turn on emergency lights and put up a special sign signaling a forced stop.
• If the driver was blinded by an oncoming car, he should reduce the speed to a safe level (it is forbidden to stop quickly and suddenly). After that, gradually stop without changing lanes, you can’t change lanes, as there is a risk of driving into the oncoming lane or onto the sidewalk. You can only go further when the blindness is completely gone.
• Before making any maneuver, the driver should fully inspect all rear-view mirrors.
• When driving in the city, you need to be especially careful. The speed of the car should be low. You should also always be ready, and, in the event of an unexpected appearance of a pedestrian, brake sharply.
• Passing stops for any type public transport it is necessary to reduce the speed, especially during the boarding and disembarkation of passengers from the transport. You need to be prepared for the fact that people will suddenly jump out from the side of public transport and cross the road where they please.
• Also, the driver should be as careful and attentive as possible when he passes schools and zebras. installed on the car for children. Most pedestrians, walking along the crossing, do not pay attention to the cars nearby, not realizing that they cannot stop abruptly in front of a person. But they always consider themselves right, because they are "on pedestrian crossing". Separately, it is worth noting the schools and the territories adjacent to them. This is a very dangerous area, as pedestrians regularly pass through here. Most children behave carefree on the road, this must be taken into account. Therefore, in such places it is best to go slowly, calmly.
• Self-confidence is absolutely to nothing on the road. You should never take risks: try to slip somewhere and break the rules. This can end badly: either with fines and repair costs, or even with a fatal outcome.
• If the driver knows all the rules, as they say, “by heart” and strictly observes them, he should not hope that all other drivers and pedestrians are so conscious. It is necessary to take into account the behavior of any road user. Mindfulness never hurts.

Conclusion

It would seem that these tips are quite primitive and most drivers already know them. But for some reason, very few adhere to them. Although seemingly simple, these rules will support the safety of the driver, passengers and everyone else on the road. Everyone who drives transport is obliged to remember these tips by heart. And not just remember, but responsibly perform.

On the road it is very difficult to predict and prepare for all possible extreme situations. Therefore, the most important thing is to follow the rules of the road and not be nervous when driving.

And most importantly, do not forget that traffic is an increased danger, the road does not forgive inattention.

1. Do a mini test while driving your car on the streets big city with heavy traffic: if other cars constantly interfere with you, then you are doing something wrong.

2. Proper driving position implies not only comfort and convenience for the driver, but also competent driving. Put outstretched hand on the upper part of the steering wheel, touching the rim with the wrist, while the shoulder blades are firmly pressed against the seat back. Now grab the steering wheel with both hands in the fifteen minutes to three position. The arms will be slightly bent at the elbows.

3. The times when drivers were reclining behind the wheel, barely reaching it with absolutely extended, straight arms, copying race drivers, are gone. Today, it is customary to place the back of the chair almost vertically.

4. When you depress the clutch pedal, your left leg should be almost fully extended. The right foot should rest on the floor at the brake pedal, and the upper part should lie on the brake pedal. When you press the gas pedal, simply turn the top of your foot to the right without lifting your heels off the floor. If necessary, braking - on the contrary, to the left. You will save, thus, fractions of a second, and they can become decisive. Changing your foot from gas to brake in a different way or moving it through the air, you lose time.

5. A driver passing the steering wheel from hand to hand will never be able to accurately determine in what position the front wheels of his car are, that is, whether they are turned left or right, or whether they are standing straight. And it is necessary to know this.

6. The steering wheel is turned with both hands, without changing their position on it until they cross. The hand below makes an interception at the top of the steering wheel, and the rotation of the steering wheel continues until it stops. So, when turning to the left, the right hand always remains on the steering wheel in its original position, that is, corresponding to the three o'clock position, when the wheels are straight.

7. And what to do when the driver turned the steering wheel in the direction of skidding? The answer is surprisingly simple: do not wait for the response of the car, that is, anticipate events. To do this, the steering wheel must be turned as quickly as possible in the direction of skidding and immediately returned to its original position. Repeat this several times, each time reducing the angle of rotation of the wheel.

8. Steer smoothly and softly. Do not provoke the loss of traction of the wheels with the road with sudden movements. If the car is obedient, then it must be controlled smoothly and gently, and only when it is out of obedience, the steering wheel must be acted sharply and quickly.

9. On a car without ABS during emergency braking, turning the steering wheel is excluded. It will cause the car to rotate around its axis, but will not change the direction of the car.

10. How to learn to brake correctly? It is wise to start by performing the "intermittent braking" technique. The right leg will get used to the command "slow down - release - slow down" at the level of "muscle memory", bypassing consciousness.

11. The brake pedal must be handled very correctly, if not gently. A sharp impact on the brake pedal also worsens the balance of the car on the road, sharply reducing stability, as well as a sharp release of the brake pedal.

12. If the car is equipped with ABS, in an emergency, on the contrary, you just have to kick the brake pedal with your foot.

13. It is enough to put the "automatic" selector into the downshift mode in advance - and a sharp short-term release of the gas will not lead to a direct gear shift, and when you press it again, the car will instantly rush forward, as if an ordinary manual box is installed on it.

14. The basic rule when passing at intersections, the "right hand rule", says: "The driver must always keep the starboard side."

15. It is very important to keep your distance. Someone will object: a little more distance - and immediately someone will fit in! Look at the problem calmly, without extra emotions. Nothing terrible will happen - even if someone "climbed", you can slow down to restore a safe distance. Remember: moving close behind someone, you deprive yourself of visibility, the ability to perform a detour maneuver or emergency braking. The small distance to the car in front deprives you of the main weapon: the time and place to carry out counter-emergency actions.

16. I advise you to stop at a traffic light as follows: smoothly turn off the speed 20-0 meters before the car that has stopped in front of you and slowly roll up to it. This technique will reduce the likelihood of a car coming from behind, as its driver will be forced to react to your braking in advance. In addition, there will be enough space in front of your car for you to react yourself.

17. The ability to always go around a car that has stopped in front of you is a necessary condition for competent driving around the city. The habit of not rolling up close to the front car will give you independence from the actions of other road users. It is to independence from circumstances that one must always strive when driving.

18. Be sure to turn on the turn signal every time you change lanes. Unfortunately, there are fewer and fewer drivers who comply with this rule among Russian drivers.

19. Fast driving through a city loaded with traffic, nothing but stress, extra liters of burned gasoline, worn tires and provocation emergencies, will not bring.

20. The looks thrown by the driver in the mirrors should be as short as possible. Better two short glances than one unreasonably long one. Focusing on the rear-view mirrors, the driver controls the situation in front of the car with peripheral vision. This is absolutely correct and especially important in dense stream cars, when the situation changes in a split second.

21. Never "lock" anyone in your car. As practice shows, even the most short-term blocking will bring nothing but trouble, even if you went away literally "for a minute". As soon as you have departed, the driver of the "locked" car appears according to the "law of meanness". The situation is always very nervous, and your fault in it is obvious. Put yourself in the driver's seat, whose car is locked, and everything will become clear to you.

22. Here is one such situation: exit to the main road at an angle. Accidents are frequent here and like two drops of water are similar to each other. They happen like this: the driver in front started moving, but doubted whether he would have time to leave, and braked. The driver behind him, seeing that the car in front of him went, looked to the left (make sure that he does not interfere with those who drive along main road). At that very moment, a dull metallic thump is heard, accompanied by the sound of broken glass. We've arrived! To avoid such an unfortunate accident, you only need to remember one rule: "Do not look to the left until the car in front of you has finally left!"

23. Everyone knows that the first stumbling block is the ill-fated starting off. We are talking about that elusive moment when, gently pressing the gas pedal and simultaneously releasing the clutch pedal, you need to feel that it starts to grab, and then smoothly add gas. Is it really necessary to seize this moment?

24. Car towing. Let's remember the main rule! It brakes the towed one, and the towing vehicle slows down. This is done as follows: before slowing down or stopping, the driver of the front car raises his hand up, giving a signal to the driver of the second car, who starts to slow down. Only then can the towing vehicle slow down.

25. Maneuvering. The novice driver gets a lot of stress from the fact that maneuvering must occur at a speed much lower than that which corresponds to first gear and the gas pedal released. Let's teach the novice driver to "play" the clutch pedal in such situations. "Don't let him stop," the teacher should say at this point, asking the student to gently release the clutch again. It is absolutely not necessary to add gas, because the car is rolling and in order to maintain this rolling, the engine power at idle will be enough. The student should feel by the play of the clutch that he can drive the car slower than he is driving in first gear.

26. When making a turn in a confined space, make "sights", that is, for example, when turning left, be sure to first take a little to the right!

27. If only I could rearrange the car literally a meter to the left - and then everything would work out. It is very easy to do this if, when moving forward, turn the wheels all the way to the left, and then all the way to the right, align them and move back again. The car will move just the meter that will allow you to complete the maneuver. Before teaching a beginner to park correctly, he needs to master the permutation technique. This will save him from many stressful situations.

28. The secret of superior driving skills is simple: acceleration, braking, turns, gear changes and stops should be accompanied by a minimum movement (redistribution) of the car's weight. Smoothness, smoothness and once again smoothness - these are the three whales of the skill of an extra-class professional.

29. A professional does none extra movement. Its actions are as smooth as possible, even if performed at a very high speed. He is able to strictly dose and coordinate his actions, predict their results.

M. A. Genningson.
Driving tutorial

To readers

Learning to drive a car is not as difficult as it might seem at first. Professional level driver's staff very different. As in any other business, in driving you can be a master, or you can just be a driver. But a prerequisite for everyone who decides to travel by car is to learn how to reliably, safe driving. We must always remember that a car is a source of increased danger, therefore, training must be taken seriously.
The main purpose of this tutorial is to help future drivers acquire driving skills. These skills can be practiced independently on any site that is safe for yourself and those around you. As for driving a car on the roads, here you will need an assistant with a driving experience of at least three years. The tutorial provides recommendations for driving a car in various conditions. Its task is to minimize the role of your voluntary assistant driver, that is, only to secure your actions on the road.
It is recommended to allocate enough time for classes so that it is not a burden to you, but a pleasure, but no more than two hours at a time. Otherwise, you will be tired.
The last wish is addressed to not very decisive people. Don't listen to naysayers who can question your driving ability, discourage you from learning, and destroy your self-confidence. Let's take a typical example. Let's say a driver you know suggested that you try to learn how to drive in his car. After explaining how and what to do, you do "everything is wrong." As a result, you listen to a categorical conclusion: "You are not allowed to drive a car, you should not even start." No need to attach importance to this. After all, it is known that it is possible to be a good driver, but not every driver is able to teach driving to another person. The old adage is true: "There are no bad students - there are bad teachers."

Section I. INITIAL EDUCATION

1. A brief introduction to the vehicle you are about to drive

Rice. 1. The simplest kinematic diagram of a car with a classic layout

1 - engine
2 - clutch
3 - checkpoint
4 – cardan gear
5 – main gear
6 - differential
7 - half shaft

ENGINE(fig. 2) sets the car in motion

Rice. 2. Engine

1 - cylinder block
2 - piston
3 - connecting rod
4 – crankshaft
5 - flywheel
6 - inlet and exhaust valves

CLUTCH(Fig. 3) provides transmission of torque by means of friction from the engine to the drive wheels, serves for short-term separation of the engine from the drive wheels and their smooth connection.

Rice. 3. Clutch

1 - engine flywheel
2 - slave friction disc
3 - leading pressure plate
4 - disc spring
5 - release bearing
6 - working cylinder
7 - hydraulic line
8 – master cylinder
9 - clutch pedal

checkpoint(gearbox) is used to convert the torque in magnitude (I, II, III, IV gears), change the direction of movement (reverse gear) and long-term separation of the engine from the drive wheels (neutral gear).
In the diagram shown in fig. 4 shows the principle of torque conversion in one of the gears.

Rice. 4. Checkpoint

1 - driving (primary) shaft
2 - intermediate shaft
3 - driven (secondary) shaft
4, 5, 6, 7 - constant mesh gears
8 - synchronizer hub
9 - gear (connecting) coupling
10 - gearshift lever

CARDAN GEAR(Fig. 5) serves to transmit torque at a varying angle.

Rice. 5. Cardan gear

1 – universal joint
2 – cardan shaft

MAIN GEAR(Fig. 6) serves to transmit torque at a right angle and increase it.

Rice. 6. Main gear

1 - drive gear
2 - driven gear

DIFFERENTIAL(Fig. 7) serves to enable the rotation of the drive wheels with different angular velocities(on turns).

Rice. 7. Differential

1 - side gear
2 - satellite
3 - half shaft

2. Preparation of the driver's workplace

Any vehicle in without fail equipped with an adjustment device for the driver's seat (longitudinal movement of the seat and backrest inclination) and rear-view mirrors (salon and side).
So, we get into the car and adjust the driver's seat "for ourselves." When adjusting, one must proceed from the following: the legs should freely reach the pedals, and the bend of the legs at the knees should be small at any position of the pedals (Fig. 8). This is easy to feel with your left foot operating the clutch pedal. To do this, put your foot on the pedal without pressing it. If you have a miniature foot and the heel does not reach the floor, it's okay - the foot will work on weight.

Rice. 8
In this position, the leg should not feel uncomfortable. Then the clutch pedal is fully depressed (up to the stop), while the foot should not stretch. A slight bend in the knee is preserved. We achieve this by moving the seat longitudinally.

Fig.9
The seatback tilt is adjustable so that your hands rest comfortably on the steering wheel. Correct position hands on the wheel rim is shown in fig. 9.

Rice. 10
The arms should also be slightly bent at the elbows (Fig. 10).
The next thing to pay attention to is the rear view. The rear-view mirrors are adjusted so that the rear window of the car is viewed as much as possible in the interior mirror, and the side of the car is tangentially visible in the side mirror.

3. Familiarity with the controls of the car

Main governing bodies:
* steering wheel
* clutch pedal
* brake pedal
* accelerator pedal
* gearbox control lever (gear shift)
* lever arm parking brake("manual").

The governing bodies also include:
* direction indicator
* switch parking lights
* headlight switch
* wiper switch
* ignition switch (lock).

Now let's get acquainted with each control body separately.
STEERING WHEEL. We already know how to hold steering wheel. In the one shown in Fig. In 9 positions, the hands have the greatest freedom of control, are ready for any quick maneuver and do not get tired, as they lie on the steering wheel with their weight. The steering wheel must be held with two hands, avoid steering with one hand. You should take your hand off the steering wheel only if necessary, for example, when intercepting the steering wheel on a turn, when shifting gears, when turning on the windshield wipers on the go, etc. Foppishness in driving with one hand can lead to trouble: when the car wheel hits an obstacle or when a puncture occurs wheels, the steering wheel with one hand can not be held.
CLUTCH PEDAL. Controlled by the left foot. When the pedal is released, the discs in the clutch are closed, with the engine running and the gear engaged, torque is transmitted from the engine to the drive wheels through the clutch. When the pedal is depressed, the discs are open and there is no connection between the engine and the drive wheels. At this point, we can easily turn on the desired gear.

Rice. eleven
The clutch pedal works as follows. The pedal is depressed completely (up to the stop) and quickly enough. The clutch pedal is released smoothly, as if in two stages (Fig. 11).
First stage - when the pedal is released from position I to position II, the gaps between the discs in the clutch are selected. This movement is quite fast. Distance A is approximately 1/3-1/2 of the full pedal travel and depends on proper clutch adjustment.
Second phase - when the pedal is released from position II to position III disks clutches are pressed against each other. Torque transmission takes place. This movement is done smoothly with a slight delay.
BRAKE PEDAL. Controlled by the right foot. Unlike the clutch pedal, the brake pedal cannot be depressed all the way to the floor. We will feel the emphasis of the pedal in an intermediate position, when brake pads hit the brake drums or discs. The amount of pressure applied to the brake pedal determines the effectiveness of braking. How less speed movement of the vehicle, the less force must be applied to the brake pedal. Otherwise, there will be an unpleasant "nod" of the car.
ACCELERATOR PEDAL. It is controlled in the same way as the brake pedal - with the right foot. The right foot handles two pedals quite well. We need either movement (accelerator) or deceleration (brake). The accelerator pedal operates in a very small range. The mode of operation is smooth. When the engine is running, when you press the pedal, it will respond with an increase in speed.
GEARBOX LEVER. Controlled by the right hand. The lever is set by the driver to the position corresponding to the specific gear. In the neutral position (the gear is not engaged), the lever has a fairly noticeable freedom of movement in the transverse direction. When moving the lever laterally, we choose which of the gears to include. The gear is engaged by moving the lever forward or backward.

Rice. 12
For a 4-speed gearbox, the circuit shown in fig. 12. For your own car, the gearshift scheme is indicated in the car's operating instructions.
PARK BRAKE LEVER. Controlled by the right hand. When the car is moving, the lever must be completely lowered, which corresponds to the disengaged state of the rear wheels. The parking brake is equipped with a ratchet that holds the lever in the locked (pulled up) position. When the lever is tightened, characteristic clicks of the ratchet device are heard (there should be 3-4 of them). To release (disengage) the lever, a button is provided at its front end. To make the button easier to press, the lever should be pulled up, then press the button and lower the lever down.

4. Testing the controls with the engine off

Having familiarized ourselves with the controls of the car, we will proceed to the exercises for working out the controls. So,
* sit comfortably and freely
* the view from the car is good both in front and behind
* Hands lie comfortably and correctly on the steering wheel
* legs freely reach the pedals.
We train the left leg. Squeeze the clutch pedal quickly and all the way to the floor. We release it quickly enough for 1/3 of the move and then smoothly and slowly until it is completely released.
Let's do this exercise several times: let the foot get used to the elasticity of the pedal.
We train the right leg. While the engine is not running, we will not press the accelerator pedal. The right foot is above the accelerator pedal, touching it lightly. We put our foot on the brake pedal and press it. To coordinate the right leg, we will do this exercise several times with different pressures on the brake pedal.
We train to include transfers. Depress the clutch pedal. The right foot should be above the accelerator pedal without pressing it. Calmly and clearly move the lever to the first gear position. Further, with the clutch pedal depressed, we will shift gears sequentially in ascending order and in any order.
Remember: the mechanism loves clarity and smoothness.
Recommendation. For ease of engaging the second gear from the first, it is not necessary to move the lever to the neutral position. It is enough to press it slightly towards you (to the left along the way), move it all the way back.
In doing these exercises, you inevitably looked at the controls of the car. Now do the same without looking at the controls, get used to them. This will help you later.

5. Engine start

After making sure that the car is on the parking brake, depress the clutch pedal and set the gear lever to the neutral position (or make sure that it is in this position). The fact is that the included transmission at idle engine sometimes used to hold the car in place (instead of "handbrake"). In this case, if we, without disengaging the gear and without releasing the clutch, try to start the engine, the following will happen: when the starter is turned on, namely, we start the engine with it, the car will jerk forward. This is fraught with trouble. After making sure that the gearshift lever is in the neutral position, turn the ignition key (Fig. 13) clockwise until the starter operates. As soon as the engine starts, the ignition key must be released immediately.

Rice. 13
Key positions:
I - the ignition is off, you can turn on the dimensions and headlights
Oh - everything is disabled
II - ignition on
III - starter position (spring-loaded)

Recommendation. If you are unsure if the gear is in neutral, depress the clutch and start the engine in that position. When the engine is running, do not drop the clutch pedal, but slowly try to release it. If the vehicle jerks, immediately depress the clutch pedal and shift out of gear. And in order to avoid any accidents, before starting the engine, check whether the “handbrake” is tightened. This precaution will prevent the vehicle from moving if the gear is engaged. The engine will then just stall.
You should be aware that a rich fuel mixture is required to reliably start a cold engine. In the case of a fuel-injected engine or a carbureted engine with automatic choke control, the composition of the mixture at start-up is automatically adjusted. In a car with a conventional carburetor, to start a cold engine, a manual air damper is provided, which must be covered to ensure an enriched mixture at the time of start-up. This is achieved by extending the control handle. By pulling out the choke control knob, we start the cold engine, as discussed above. After a few seconds of operation, the engine speed will begin to increase as it warms up. In this case, it is useful to correct the speed (by ear) by the position of the control knob, i.e., slightly sinking the handle, achieve stable, but low speed (about 1500 rpm).
When starting a warm engine, the choke must be fully open (the handle is recessed) to avoid over-enrichment of the mixture and "throwing" the spark plugs.

6. Starting the car from a place, driving in a straight line, braking and stopping

Up to this point, we have been self-studying in our car at its parking lot. Starting the car from a place requires compliance with certain safety conditions. To acquire the initial skills of driving a car, you need to choose any site free from people, cars, etc. If this site has a size of at least 30x30m, this will be enough for a start. Of course, the driving of the car to this site must be carried out by the driver.
Before you try to move the car from a place, you must clearly imagine how to stop it. To stop the car, the following is done: the left foot quickly depresses the clutch pedal, the right foot acts on the brake pedal (the degree of depression is determined by the need). The squeezed clutch thus excludes further forced movement of the car by the engine. The brake pedal will naturally stop the car from moving.
Psychologically, it is very important to convince yourself that you know how to respond to a process that has gone out of control. If something is not clear, something is wrong - the clutch pedal is “to the floor”, the brake pedal is pressed. After that, you need to turn off the transmission.
So, your car is on the site. Moreover, in such a way that there are many free space. After making sure the car is on neutral gear with the handbrake tightened, we start the engine.

Exercise 1: Practicing the Clutch Engagement

The right foot is above the accelerator. Squeeze out the clutch pedal, turn on 1st gear. Keeping the clutch depressed, remove the car from the "handbrake". The car is ready for the exercise.
In order not to miss the moment of clutch actuation, start releasing the clutch pedal very slowly, observing the behavior of the car. You will feel the moment the clutch is engaged by the engine speed. When the clutch is engaged, the engine will be loaded, its speed will drop (decrease).
The left foot should remember this trigger position.
As soon as you feel that the engine has reacted by reducing the speed, you do not need to release the clutch pedal further (in this exercise). After some delay, press the pedal to the floor again and turn off the gear.
If the engine slows down, but does not stall, the goal of the exercise has been achieved. If the engine has stalled, then before restarting it, do not forget to turn off the gear.
Do this exercise several times.

Exercise 2. Pulling off the car

To move the car from a place, the engine needs a certain amount of power, which depends on its speed.
At idle speed, at which the engine is running without load with the accelerator pedal released, its power is minimal. At the moment of starting the car, the engine is loaded, overcoming the rolling resistance of the car, and so that it does not stop, you need to increase its speed by slightly pressing the accelerator pedal.
Let's try to start by simply adding speed, i.e. work only with the right foot. Press the accelerator pedal very carefully. An unloaded motor will respond responsively. Turnovers are controlled by ear.
Now let's start the exercise. Preparatory operations are the same as in exercise 1:
* depress the clutch pedal;
* turn on 1st gear;
* releasing the clutch pedal, we find the position of operation (engine speed has fallen somewhat).
Then, having added speed with the accelerator pedal, we release the clutch pedal literally by 1-2 mm, keeping the left leg in tension. The vehicle will then move forward. At the moment the car starts moving, the accelerator pedal is slightly released (with a steady movement, the engine no longer needs power), and the clutch is completely released.
Having rolled the car in a straight line for several meters, we squeeze the clutch and slow down with our right foot. After stopping the car, immediately turn off the transmission.
If the car “nods” when braking, then the brake pedal was pressed too hard.
Do not rush to try again, calmly analyze your actions.

1. When starting off, the car jerked - the clutch was released too sharply
2. The engine stalled - when the clutch was released, the revolutions were insufficient
3. The engine "roars" - the speed is too high and added before the clutch worked, i.e. without load
After analyzing your actions, try again, but do not forget to make sure that there is a lot of space in front of the car. Lack of space can frighten you when you start moving and provoke an error.
If there is not enough space in front of the car, this exercise is performed while moving backward. Don't be afraid to move backwards. You are required to smoothly touch the car without interfering with the trajectory of its movement, i.e. the same thing you did just now when moving forward.
When driving backwards, you need to sit so that it is comfortable and clearly visible where the car is moving. To do this, turn on the seat half a turn to the right. We put our left hand on the steering wheel rim from the top center, we throw our right hand over the back of our seat, freely leaning on it. We are convinced that we can clearly see through the rear window of the car all the space behind it. In this position, without looking at the pedals, let's try to squeeze the clutch and release it smoothly (not including the gear). With the right foot, slightly add speed (by ear). Representing the car in reverse motion, we imitate its stop: we squeeze the clutch and press the brake. If it works, then you did everything right.
Let's start the exercise. Depress the clutch and engage reverse gear. Keeping the clutch depressed, we sit down comfortably. Car and we are ready to go. We do everything else in the same way, paying attention to the work of the legs and engine speed.
We emphasize once again that before starting the movement, it is necessary to remember about your further actions, i.e. clearly understand what needs to be done to stop the car.
Exercise 2 is very important in the learning process. Try to achieve good results in doing it, but do not bring yourself to fatigue. Fatigue dulls attention.
To practice starting off the car, an intermediate exercise can be recommended in which the clutch pedal is not fully released. The initial steps are the same as in the previous exercise.
We squeeze the clutch pedal, turn on the 1st gear, release the clutch, find the position of its operation (the engine reacted by reducing the speed). Further, having added speed by ear, we release the clutch pedal by 1-2 mm, having achieved this slow movement of the car, while the clutch is no longer released. After rolling the car for 1-3 meters, the clutch must be fully squeezed out and the gear switched off.
Let's say right away that the performance of this exercise makes the clutch work in an unfavorable mode (the driven disk works more time with slipping), but from the training point of view it gives the best result in training the leg to control the clutch.

7. Movement along a curved trajectory, maneuvering

Exercise 1. Movement in a circle of arbitrary radius

The starting location for this session is the same as in the previous exercise.
Having outlined an arbitrary trajectory, we smoothly touch the car in 1st gear and slowly move in a circle, first counterclockwise.
When practicing taxiing skills, it is important that the task at hand does not distract you from the main thing - the ability to stop the car in any situation. The fact is that at the initial stage of training, the car, quite possibly, will not move along the trajectory that you intended. In this case, the correction in taxiing can be safely carried out only with full control over the movement of the car. If at the time of the exercise you suddenly did not have enough time to make the right decision, you should calmly stop the car without spraying on other actions.
Now let's talk specifically about what you need to pay attention to when performing the exercise.
1. You should look not in front of the “nose” of the car directly, but in the place where the car is heading for you (shown by arrows in Fig. 14).

Fig.14
2. It is necessary to take into account some inertia of the steering of the car (unlike a motorcycle, a bicycle), since the steering mechanism has a free play (backlash) within 10 °, provided for by the design. During taxiing, this play is selected quickly enough.
3. When driving along a curve, do not strive all the time to turn the steering wheel in the direction of the turn. The desired trajectory is provided by a certain position of the steered wheels.
When performing the exercise, it is useful to make intermediate stops. After driving a few laps (5-6), change direction and do the same exercise clockwise.

Exercise 2. Acquisition of taxiing skills while driving on the "eight" (Fig. 15).

Fig.15
In this exercise, you need to pay attention to the correct steering. The rudder turns freely with interception, approximately as shown in Fig. 16a and 16b.

Fig.16a. turn right

Fig.16b. turn left
In the process of performing the exercise in question, make intermediate stops.
To successfully complete the following maneuvering exercises, it is very important to be able to move the car over any smallest distance. This is achieved by competent clutch work.
When the clutch pedal is released, some time elapses during which the car travels a certain distance. In other words, if, when starting the car, try releasing the clutch pedal, immediately squeeze it out and apply the brake, you can make sure that the car will roll several meters during this time. But sometimes it is necessary to advance the car quite a bit, literally by centimeters. How to do it? To do this, it is enough to move the car on a half-pressed clutch, after which the clutch pedal should be immediately squeezed out.

Fig.17
I - fully depressed pedal
II - clutch actuation position
III - fully released pedal
IV - position of the pedal (conditional), at which the car will start moving
As we already know, position II (Fig. 17) determines the moment the clutch starts to actuate. From position II the car will start to move. Therefore, the less we release the pedal from position II with subsequent squeezing, the smaller the distance pass the car. This will be the goal of our next exercise - to move the car a minimum distance.

Exercise 3. Moving the car to a minimum distance.

We turn on the 1st gear and find the moment of clutch actuation (position II, Fig. 17). Further, at the same time adding a little engine speed, we release the clutch pedal to the conditional position IV, literally by a few millimeters. After the car moves, the clutch pedal is fully depressed. In this case, it is not necessary to use the brake pedal, because if you do everything right, the car will not have time to roll and stop under its own weight.
In this exercise, you need to set yourself the task of gradually moving the car to the smallest possible distance (10-20 cm).
Try the same when moving backwards. After practicing this exercise, you will gain confidence that the car can be tamed. There will come a pleasant feeling of complete control over the car.

Exercise 4. Maneuvering with the use of reverse.

We choose the trajectory of movement arbitrarily, for example, as shown in Fig. 18. In this exercise, the main thing to pay attention to is taxiing when reversing. We have already considered reversing in a straight line.
In the proposed exercise, when reversing, we turn. Here it is very important for the driver to choose for himself such a position behind the wheel, so that it is comfortable, the movements are relaxed, the zone where the car should be directed is clearly visible.

Fig.18a

Fig.18b
On fig. 18a shows the movement of the car in reverse with the right turn of the steered wheels. In this case, the driver must turn slightly to the right so that the glass area of ​​the rear right door and the rear window of the car are visible. You can turn the steering wheel with one, left hand, and two hands. It depends on the steepness of the turn and on the speed of movement.
On fig. 18b shows the movement of the car in reverse with the left turn of the steered wheels. In this case, the driver must choose a convenient position for himself: either turn around, as in the previous case, but much more so that the rear window area and partially the glass of the rear left door of the car are visible; or, perhaps more conveniently, sharp turn, turn to the left side and look through the side window of the left back door. Try both options. Moreover, the driver can change the position during reverse maneuvering. If you feel that you are uncomfortable while driving, change position, but first stop the car. The main thing is that the zone into which the car is heading is visible.

8. Driving with gear shifting

For the movement of the car in various road conditions and with different speeds, it is necessary that the torque on the drive wheels be variable. This is provided by the gearbox (gearbox).
Each gear has its own speed range, which has lower and upper limits and is set by engine speed.
The approximate range of speeds in each gear for a 4-speed gearbox is as shown in Table. 1.
I - 0 - 40
II - 10 - 60
III - 30 - 90
IV - 50 - max
When driving, the driver selects a speed mode convenient for himself, and uses the transmission according to the selected speed. To accelerate the vehicle to desired speed it is necessary to sequentially accelerate the car in each gear in ascending order (I, II, III, IV gears). For example, the selected speed mode in IV gear is 60 km / h. The final speed is not the maximum for the car, therefore, the acceleration in each gear should not be the maximum:
* starting the car from a place in 1st gear and accelerating to 20 km / h;
* switching to II gear and acceleration to 40 km / h;
* switching to III gear and acceleration to 60 km / h;
* switching to IV gear and maintaining the selected speed - 60 km / h.
In this case, the engine will operate in each gear in approximately the same speed range: from idle (700-800 rpm) to medium (2000-2500 rpm).

Exercise 1. Movement with switching to 2nd gear.

There must be enough space for this exercise. You will move in a straight line, without being distracted by taxiing.
Recommendation. The process of switching to II gear for ease of implementation is divided into several stages.
1. Starting the car from a standstill and smooth acceleration in 1st gear.
2. Depress the clutch pedal while releasing the accelerator pedal.
3. Quiet translation of the gearshift lever from I gear to II gear.
4. Sufficiently fast, but smooth release of the clutch pedal.
5. Adding engine speed for subsequent acceleration.
As skills are acquired, the 4th and 5th stages can be combined.
At the 1st stage during acceleration, the speed sufficient to switch to 2nd gear can be controlled not by the speedometer. and visually, by eye, and by engine speed (speed should be average).
At the 2nd stage, do not rush when depressing the clutch pedal without fail to immediately shift gear. By depressing the clutch and dropping the speed, you will coast enough time for a smooth shift of the gearshift lever (3rd stage). Stages 4 and 5 are a matter of technique.
Possible errors and their causes:
1. After acceleration, at the moment of switching, the engine “roared”, i.e. gained excessive speed without load - when the clutch was pressed, they forgot to release the accelerator pedal.
2. After acceleration at the moment of switching, the car slowed down sharply. - Clutch release too late. You released the accelerator pedal, but the clutch remained engaged. The engine worked like a retarder in 1st gear.
Practice this exercise.
Upshifts from II to III and from III to IV gears are similar to those discussed above. Just keep in mind that driving in higher gears is possible on high speeds. Therefore, more space is required for training. It can be any free road. However, when driving on it in the learning process, an experienced driver should sit with you.

Exercise 2. When decelerating, shift to a lower gear.

Returning to Table 1, let's pay attention to the lower limit of speeds in each gear. It shows that it is unacceptable to move at a speed less than the lower limit for a particular gear. The engine in this case will run intermittently at speeds below idle, and may even stop. At the time of operation, the engine will experience a very harmful for him " oil starvation».
If during the movement a situation arises that requires a reduction in speed, then, having reduced the speed to the minimum allowable for a given gear, it is necessary to shift to a lower gear suitable for this speed. At the same time, downshifting to reverse order not necessary.
Let's give examples.
First. We are moving in IV gear at a speed of 60 km / h. There is an intersection ahead where we need to turn. Slowing down, we reduce the speed to about 50 km / h (lower limit in IV gear), squeeze the clutch, continuing braking. We turn on the second gear, since the speed we have chosen for cornering is approximately 10 km / h.
Second. We move at the same speed in IV gear. There is a traffic light ahead. We reduce the speed to 50 km / h, squeeze the clutch, continuing to slow down until a complete stop in front of the traffic light. We put the transmission in neutral.
From the two examples given, it can be seen that intermediate transmissions were not required.
Try the following transition exercise:
* from IV to III
* from IV to II
* from III to II gear.
Shift to 1st gear only if the speed is practically zero.

9. Check in the garage

For further classes, you will need overall poles - wooden, plastic, ski poles, etc. The main thing is that they should be about one meter in size or a little more; so that in case of accidental collision with them, damage to your car is not caused; so that the bearings on which they will be installed do not damage the wheels of the car. There are enough of them 7-8 pieces.
We put the car on the site and place poles around it, as shown in Fig. 19.

Rice. 19
The task is to leave the garage and drive into it in reverse. Moreover, you need to perform this exercise with different sides.
When leaving the garage, it must be taken into account that when turning, the trajectories of the front and rear wheels are different. The rear wheel runs on the inside radius. Therefore, when leaving the garage, do not rush to turn right away, otherwise the front pole (Fig. 20) will be knocked down (and if this is a real garage, then the side of the car will suffer). To prevent this from happening, roll out the car in a straight line about halfway, then turn in the selected direction, controlling the inner side of the car.

Rice. 20

Exercise 1. Drive out of the garage, turn right and drive back in.

When leaving the garage, you need to focus on the right rake angle(right front pole). We leave the garage to the right side and put the car, as shown in fig. 20.
To enter the garage, turn around driving position so that it is clearly visible. We will divide the race itself into three stages.
At the 1st stage, we focus on the nearest milestone, which must be rounded at a distance of 30-40 cm from the side of the car along a steep radius. At the end of the 1st stage, the car should be located at approximately 45 ° to the garage, the nearest pole should be visible through the glass of the rear right door and be at a distance of 30-40 cm from the side of the car, the steered wheels should be completely turned to the right (Fig. 21a).

Rice. 21a
At the 2nd stage, all attention is focused on the middle section of the poles, which the car must pass through the center. Watching the movement of the car in a steep arc inside the garage, we wait until rear end of the car will be oriented in the center of the middle section (Fig. 21b).

Rice. 21b
At the 3rd stage, focusing on the rear alignment (or on the central pole), we align the car so that it moves strictly in a straight line inside the garage.
It should be noted that correcting a possible error inside the garage by taxiing will not bring any benefit, it may only worsen the situation.
In the final phase inside the garage, the car should not go in an arc. Correcting the rear of the car, even by a small distance, will entail a significant shift towards the front (driven) part of the car (Fig. 22).

Rice. 22

Exercise 2. Leaving the garage with a left turn and reversing back.

This exercise differs from the previous one only in the orientation of the driver in his place.
Working on the drive to the garage will require patience. It is useful during training, setting guidelines for yourself, stopping the car in intermediate positions, getting out of it to analyze your actions.

10. U-turn in a confined space

To conduct a lesson on the site, we will make a corridor of landmarks, as shown in Fig. 23.

Rice. 23

Exercise 1. U-turn to the left using reverse.

In order for a turn to be most effective, three conditions are necessary:
* use of the corridor across the entire width;
* work with a wheel in all range;
* preparing the car before stopping by turning the steered wheels to move in the other direction.
So, let's try to make a U-turn rationally. We enter the corridor, clinging to right side(about half a meter from the poles). In the middle of the corridor, turn the steering wheel to the left to failure and in this position we pass 2/3 of the width of the corridor. We pass the rest of the way, quickly twisting the steering wheel in the other direction. those. to the right. You need to stop the car about half a meter from the restrictive poles.
Starting to move in reverse, continue to turn the steering wheel to the right until it stops. Thus, we also pass 2/3 of the width of the corridor. The rest of the way to a stop, we turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction, i.e. to the left. After stopping, we resume moving forward with the steering wheel turning to the left.
Recommendation. When performing maneuvering exercises, one should not be afraid to use the "roll", i.e. clutch movement. In this case, the car can move more slowly and it will be easier to control.
With the acquisition of skills and experience, your movements will be more rational.

11. Car parking

Parking a car can be done in three ways (Fig. 24):

Fig. 24a, parallel to the roadway;

Fig. 24b, perpendicular to the roadway;

Fig. 24c, at an angle to the roadway.
Parking perpendicular to the roadway is similar to driving into a garage. Parking at an angle to the road is not difficult if you can handle perpendicular parking.
We will stop in a car park parallel to the roadway. If the space for your car is limited, but sufficient, between the cars standing at the sidewalk, it is advisable to drive into this gap in reverse. The fact is that with the help of the front steered wheels, the “nose” of the car is easily brought in.

Exercise 1. Parallel parking.

We put the landmarks and the car relative to them, as shown in fig. 25.

Rice. 25
For example, let's use a graphic representation of the phased location of the car during the race (see Fig. 26).

Fig.26
In position 1, the steering wheels must be turned to the right. In position 2, the distance from the side of the car to the nearest pole should be ~ 0.5 m. From position 2 to position 3, the car should move in a straight line. In position 3, the steered wheels must be turned to the left. The distance from the rear right corner of the car to the line of poles is ~ 0.5 m. When moving from position 3 to position 4, it is important to control the right fender of the car. Position 4 shows the result that you should achieve after the workouts done. From position 4, a correction with the vehicle moving forward is possible.

12. Check-in to the flyover. Starting a car on a hill

To successfully enter the overpass, you must:
* Correctly coordinate the car;
* maintain straightness when entering the overpass;
* be able to stop the car in any position on the overpass, preventing it from rolling.
Vehicle coordination training should be started without entering the flyover.

Exercise 1. Check-in to the overpass.

We put the poles (without thrust bearings) relative to the car, as shown in Fig. 27. In this case, the poles will determine the track of the overpass.

Fig.27
We take into account that in close proximity to the overpass, the car must move strictly in a straight line. That is, maneuvering must be performed in advance. Otherwise, by pointing the front wheels correctly at the overpass, but continuing to move in an arc, you will not fall into the ruts of the overpass with the rear wheels.
Do this exercise several times. Now try to do the same with the displacement of the car relative to the placed landmarks in the other direction.

Exercise 2. Stopping a car on a flyover.

To perform the exercise, we select a natural slope (about 16 °) and lay the poles on it in the same way as indicated above.
Aiming the car at an impromptu flyover. stop it on the rise. In order to prevent the car from rolling back after stopping, while continuing to firmly hold the brake pedal, we tighten the parking brake. During a stop on the rise, let's pay attention to the sequence of actions: with the clutch pedal depressed and the brake pedal pressed, the handbrake is first tightened, and only then the gear is turned off and the pedals are released.

Exercise 3. Starting the car on the rise.

So, the car is on the rise with the parking brake. Our task is to release the car from the parking brake at the initial moment of its starting.
The sequence of actions is the following.
1. We turn on the 1st gear and put our right hand on the "handbrake".
2. We find the moment of clutch actuation and in this position we hold the left leg (remember that at the moment the clutch is actuated, the engine will react with a decrease in speed).
3. Having increased the speed, we lower the brake lever all the way down, after pressing the ratchet button.
4. Then we do everything as in normal starting.
If your actions are correct, the car will not roll back.
Possible errors and their causes:
1. When starting off, the engine stalled - the “handbrake” was not released in time
2. The engine "roars", the car rolled back - the "handbrake" was released ahead of time (the clutch has not yet worked). When the car rolls back, there is an involuntary desire to move the car forward due to more pressure on the accelerator, while forgetting about the clutch
So, if the goal is clear, it is necessary to start practicing actions. The main thing at the initial stage of training is not to rush to do everything at once. Learn actions sequentially, as we have discussed.
Recommendation. In the event of a rollback of the car, you must calmly continue to smoothly release the clutch until it engages. In this case, at the moment the clutch is actuated, the car will first stop and then start moving forward.
In the exercise considered, the greatest attention should be paid to the work of the clutch.

Section II. ROAD DRIVING

Having acquired sufficient skills in driving a car, you have fulfilled only one of the requirements of the 21st section of the Rules of the Road.
In order to take to the road to continue your studies, you must meet the following requirements.
1. Know and strictly follow the rules of the road.
2. The car must have front and rear identification marks of a training ride and be equipped with a rear-view mirror for the trainee:

3. You must have a driving instructor with at least three years of experience.
When learning on the road, you must wear your seat belts.
In addition to the general prohibition of driving practice
On the highways marked with the sign below, there are roads in cities where driving practice is also prohibited.

In Moscow it is:
* center within the Garden Ring, including the ring itself
* all railway station squares Berezhkovskaya embankment ave. Vernadsky
* Vnukovskoe highway
* Volokolamskoe highway
* B. Dorogomilovskaya st.
* Ilinskoe highway
* Novoarbatsky Ave.
* Komsomolsky Ave.
* Krasnogorsk highway
* Kutuzovsky Ave.
* Leninsky Ave.
* Leningradsky Ave.
* Leningrad highway up to 29 km
* Lomonosovsky Ave.
* Minsk st.
* Minsk highway up to 19 km
* Ave. Mira
* Michurinsky Ave.
* Mosfilmovskaya st.
* Mozhayskoe highway
* Proletarian Ave.
* Podushkinskoe highway
* Rublevo-Uspenskoe Highway
* Rublevskoe Old Highway
* Smolenskaya st.
* Tverskaya (Gorky) st.
* Tverskaya-Yamskaya (Gorky) st.
* University Ave.
* Uspenskoe Second Highway
* Emb. Shevchenko
* Sheremetyevskaya st.

1. Start driving and stop at the curb (at the sidewalk)

Before you start driving, you must:
* make sure that you do not interfere with other road users;
* turn on the turn signal.
Recall that a warning signal (direction indicator) does not give an advantage to the driver in motion.
If the car is parked next to the sidewalk and the road is clear in front of it, it is convenient to start moving at a very sharp angle without making sudden maneuvers. In this case, you will not create inconvenience for a moving vehicle. Whether your car is standing on the sidewalk or moving at low speed in close proximity to it - for the driver of another vehicle, it is almost the same (Fig. 28).

Rice. 28
If there is an obstacle in front of your vehicle (for example, another vehicle), then the starting maneuver requires great care. have the advantage vehicles moving on the road. In this case, you will need acquired clutch skills to make the exit slow and controlled. Such a departure implies, in the event of a change in the situation, a suspension in any position (Fig. 29, pos. 2).

Fig.29
In order to safely stop at the sidewalk, you must:
* know in advance where we can do it;
* give a warning signal in advance (right turn signal);
* Gradually slow down and, if possible, approach the curb at a sharp angle.
It is very important that you approach the curb after slowing down. Driving to the sidewalk at high speed can lead to an error and unpleasant consequences. Hitting a wheel with a curb could damage the wheel or, worse, cause you to lose control of your vehicle due to increased resistance on the right wheel.
Where stopping is prohibited is indicated in the 12th section of the SDA

2. Movement in a row while maintaining a distance

The speed and distance should be chosen so as to avoid collision with the vehicle in front, even in the event of its sudden braking.
When choosing a distance, the following factors should be considered:
* movement speed (the higher the speed, the greater the distance);
* visibility (light, fog, etc.);
* condition of the road surface;
* the condition of your vehicle;
* own state (fatigue, decreased reaction, etc.).
Driving in your lane on the road is the easiest and safest. In this case, you are required to maintain a distance and competent use of gears when changing speed modes movement.

3. Movement with lane change

This maneuver requires increased attention from the driver. In this case, two conditions must be met. Necessary:
* Give way to a vehicle moving in your lane.
* Give a warning signal.
Let's look at a few examples of rebuilding.
1. The speed behind the car in the next lane is greater than yours (fig. 30).

Rice. thirty
Rebuilding is currently not possible. If the lane change is due to an upcoming turn and the turn is close, slow down early and wait for a safe opportunity to change lanes. The main thing (especially at first, while there is no experience) is not to rush, not to succumb to the impatient manifestations of other drivers (beeps, headlights) and not to take rash actions. Remember! Each action associated with changing the mode of movement must be controlled.
2. The speed behind the car is approximately equal to yours, and there is a sufficient distance to it (Fig. 31).

Rice. 31
Rebuilding is possible. In this case, for greater safety of rebuilding, the speed of movement can be slightly increased (if the situation allows).
3. The speed of your car is higher than the speed of the car moving in the next lane (Fig. 32).

Rice. 32
In this case, rebuilding is possible after the car in the next row is visible through the rear window in the rear-view mirror.
If necessary, rebuilding multi-lane road with overcoming several rows, you should not “cut” the road diagonally. In this case, an error is possible in estimating the speed and distance of several vehicles moving in adjacent rows at once.
It is safer to perform this maneuver step by step from row to row, i.e., after changing to the next row, assess the situation in the next one, and so on. (Fig. 33).

4. Passage of unregulated intersections

Unregulated intersections are divided into equivalent and unequal, i.e. with main and secondary roads.
Directions unregulated intersection is one of the most difficult elements on the road.
When approaching an intersection, the driver must clearly know:
* further direction of its movement;
* who has the right of way in traffic at this intersection.
The direction of traffic at an intersection requires the appropriate positioning of your vehicle in front of it. For example, when moving to forward direction the car can be located in any row. When driving at the intersection to the right or left, it is necessary to take the right or left lane, respectively.
If the directions of traffic intersect, the priority right in traffic at the intersection is given to:
* a vehicle with a flashing beacon on;
* a vehicle located on the main road;
* tram;
* a vehicle without obstruction on the right.
Let's give examples.

Rice. 34
In Figure 34, even though the vehicle with the flashing beacon is on secondary road, it has an advantage.

Rice. 35
In Figure 35, the vehicle on the main road has the advantage in traffic. The tram also obeys this rule.

Rice. 36
In Figure 36, with an equal right to move (equivalent intersection), the tram has the advantage (despite the fact that the tram has an obstacle on the right).

Rice. 37
As Figure 37 shows, on equivalent roads, the one with no obstruction on the right has the advantage (in the absence of a tram and a vehicle with a flashing beacon).
In order to correctly assess the situation at the intersection, time is needed. The lower the speed with which we will drive up to the intersection, the more time will be to assess the specific situation and make the right decision.
Practice confirms that driving in a 15-20-meter zone in front of an intersection at a speed of no more than 10 km / h allows the driver to calmly understand the situation. We know that in order to move on such low speed 2nd gear must be selected. If, having reduced the speed in advance, turn on the second gear 15-20 m away, then you can focus all your attention on the main thing:
* in the absence of interference, continue moving in the intended direction;
* if there is an obstacle that does not allow moving on, stop in front of the intersection.
Consider the actions of the driver on the example of specific intersections.

Crossroad with STOP sign

If there is a sign prohibiting the passage of an intersection without stopping, the driver's position is greatly simplified. Before him is a specific task - to stop. It must be completed, and then other tasks must be solved. Question: where to stay and how?

Rice. 38
According to the traffic rules, in the absence of the STOP line, you must stop in front of the intersecting carriageway. It should be noted that leaving the conditional line (Fig. 38) without stopping is unacceptable. If you stop long before this line, the intersection will be less visible, which will create inconvenience when resuming traffic.
When stopping, in addition, you should consider how to position the car. If the further direction of movement is straight or left, the car must be coordinated strictly perpendicular to the crossed carriageway (moreover, when turning left, in the left lane); when turning right, the car must be stopped on the trajectory along which the movement is planned.

Crossroad with "Give way" sign

As in the previous case, we are on a minor road. The difference is that this sign does not require an unconditional stop. Therefore, there is a temptation to overcome it on the move.
In order for the intersection to be confident and safe, it is recommended to proceed as follows.

Rice. 39
1. For 15-20 m, reduce the speed to about 10 km / h and turn on the second gear (Fig. 39, pos. 1).
2. Moving at low speed, first direct all attention to the left side (if from this position the left side of the intersection is poorly visible, you must first look in the direction of better visibility).
3. If interference is detected from the indicated side, we calmly stop in front of the intersecting carriageway. In the absence of interference from this direction, continuing to approach the intersection, we direct all attention in the opposite direction.
4. 3-5 m before the crossed carriageway (Fig. 39, pos. 2), a decision should be made on the possibility of continuing the movement.
If you did not have time to correctly assess the situation at the intersection, it is unacceptable to leave the crossed carriageway. Nothing will happen if you, without orienting yourself in time, stop unnecessarily in front of an intersecting carriageway.

Equivalent intersection

At an equivalent intersection, in the absence of a vehicle with a flashing beacon on and a tram, the “interference from the right” rule applies. Therefore, you must give way to all vehicles on your right.

Rice. 40
The most difficult maneuver at an equivalent intersection is the left turn. In this case, interference can be from two directions - to the right and towards. To pass a vehicle from the right direction, your car must be in front of the crossed carriageway (Fig. 40, pos. 1). When turning left, in order to pass an oncoming vehicle moving straight or right, the car should be stopped at the intersection in the position from which the turn will begin (Fig. 40, pos. 2), i.e. in the middle of the intersection. steered wheels must stand straight to avoid an unauthorized exit into the oncoming lane at the time of waiting.

5. Driving through regulated intersections

An intersection is regulated if the order of traffic on it is determined by the traffic controller or a traffic light.

Rice. 41a

Rice. 41b
On fig. 41a, 41b show the permitted directions of movement for two main positions of the traffic controller.
The traffic controller, who raised his hand with a baton up, demands attention from the vehicles. The actions of drivers in this case should be the same as with a yellow traffic light.
When traffic is controlled by a traffic light Special attention should be given to a traffic light with an additional section. The included additional section allows movement in the specified direction. But in this case, when the main section of the traffic light at the same time prohibits movement (red or yellow), then, moving in the direction allowed by the additional section, it is necessary to let vehicles from other directions pass. For example, we need to turn right, as shown in Fig. 42.

Rice. 42
Remember that the main red (or yellow) section of the traffic light indicates that traffic is allowed from the other direction. A driver moving towards a green traffic light may not be aware that the permissive arrow is on from your direction. He knows one thing: from your direction - a red light. If the traffic light has additional sections, in the direction of which you do not need to go, do not occupy the rows corresponding to the sections. Otherwise, you may interfere with other vehicles and, according to the Rules of the Road, you will be required to clear the corresponding lane by driving in the direction indicated by the section (Fig. 43).

Rice. 43
One more recommendation. Never rush to move the car when the traffic light is green. Trying to start moving as soon as possible so as not to detain anyone will result in a mistake being made and the engine stalling. With calm actions, the delay at the intersection will not be more than 2-3 seconds.

6. Overtaking

Overtaking, i.e. lane departure is one of the most dangerous actions on the road. It requires increased attention from the driver if it is carried out with a departure into the oncoming lane.
In addition to the general requirements listed in the rules of the road, when overtaking, it is useful to know a number of techniques that help to overtake safely.
If you decide to overtake the vehicle in front, you should move your car to the left a little in advance (about half the width of the car) so that the oncoming lane zone is clearly visible. With such a small offset, you will not interfere with oncoming vehicles (Fig. 44).

Rice. 44
In addition, it is necessary to maintain a sufficient distance to the person being overtaken, not to drive too close to him. When an oncoming vehicle catches up with your fellow passenger you are about to overtake, this distance can be used to increase your speed.
The greater the speed difference between the overtaker and the overtaken, the less time is needed to overtake and the safer it will be to overtake into the oncoming lane.
Figure 45 graphically shows a competent overtaking.
The speeds of the overtaken and overtaken in fig. 45a are equal, the distance is maintained, since Opposite Lane busy. At the same time, the overtaking driver is slightly shifted to the left for better visibility of the oncoming lane.

Rice. 45a
In figure 45b, the oncoming car caught up with the overtaken one. At this moment, the overtaking person increases speed, the distance is reduced (if the lane behind the oncoming car is free).

Rice. 45b
In Figure 45c, the oncoming lane has become free. The speed difference between the overtaker and the overtaken is sufficient. There is a safe overtaking.

Rice. 45v
You should change lanes after overtaking not earlier than the one you just overtook is visible in the rear-view mirror.
It should be borne in mind that for a rapid increase in speed it is not always useful top gear. For example, you are moving at a speed of 50 km / h in IV gear. A car is moving ahead at a slightly lower speed, say 45 km/h. Overtaking it with a speed difference of 5 km / h will require a lot of time and a large section of the path. During this time, the situation in the oncoming lane may change. It is possible to increase the speed to 60 km / h in the same IV gear, but the increase will be slow (the transmission is weak). If we use III gear (it operates in the speed range of 30-90 km / h), then acceleration will be more intense, with much less time spent on increasing speed.

During training in a driving school, we all acquire the most basic driving skills. This is more or less enough to pass the exam in the traffic police, but this is not enough for confident driving in real conditions. Now the real learning begins! Every day, absorbing the knowledge acquired on the road, the novice gradually turns into an experienced driver.

The Fundamentals of Safety course is designed to prepare you for driving in difficult road conditions, at least theoretically.

1. How to keep a safe distance and a safe lateral interval.

A picture familiar to everyone: the one who was driving in front slowed down, the one who was driving behind did not have time to react. In 99.9% of cases, the one who was driving behind is to blame. And the charge will be standard - failure to maintain a safe distance.

So what should it be, this safest distance? Rules do not contain any numerical value, and cannot contain. The safe distance depends on many reasons and in each case is determined by the driver independently.

The higher the speed, the greater the distance should be. On a dry surface, the distance is one, on slippery - another. An experienced driver, even moving “bumper to bumper”, will never hit the driver in front. A beginner can become the culprit of an accident by keeping an increased distance.

Of course, there are some well-known recommendations. For example, on a dry road, the distance (in meters) must be at least half the speed (in km/h), and on a slippery road, at least the absolute value of the speed. That is, when driving at a speed of 60 km / h on a dry road, the distance should be at least 30 meters, on a slippery road - at least 60 meters. Knowing and using such a recommendation is certainly not harmful. However, in reality, things happen a little differently.

In the process of driving, each of us involuntarily monitors the traffic situation, the computer inside us analyzes the incoming information and gives the result - a danger signal, we are scared! The driver instinctively increases the distance to get rid of the unpleasant feeling of anxiety. In this sense, all drivers have the same safe distance - when it's not scary.

But still, keeping a safe distance, focusing only on “scary-not scary”, is somehow very subjective and completely unscientific. What does science say about this?

Each time the driver detects an obstacle on the road, further events develop as follows:

- the eyes communicate information to the brain;

- the brain immediately signals the spinal cord;

- the spinal cord commands certain muscle groups, and your right foot is transferred from the gas pedal to the brake pedal.

This time (from the moment when the driver detected an obstacle on the road until the moment the brake pedal was pressed) is commonly called driver reaction time.

It has been experimentally established that the reaction time for different people is different and it can vary from 0.4 to 1.6 seconds. (It is better for a novice driver to assume that this is his reaction time - 1.6 seconds).

But that's not all. The engineers measured the response time of the hydraulic brake actuator, and, as it turned out, it can reach a value 0,4 seconds. That is brake mechanisms can operate with a delay of 0.4 seconds after the driver starts to press the brake pedal.

And all this time

(full 2 ​​seconds after the brake lights of the driver in front flashed)

your car will inexorably approach it!

And only after2 secondsthe actual braking will begin!

It turns out that on dry pavement, a safe distance can be considered the distance that a car travels. in 2 seconds.

At a speed of 60 km/h - it's just over 33 meters, and at a speed of 90 km/h - exactly 50 meters.

And they ask about these 2 seconds in the exam:

And they also ask about the reaction time:

What is meant by driver reaction time? 1. The time from the moment the driver detects a danger to the complete stop of the vehicle. 2. The time from the moment a driver detects a hazard to the start of taking action to avoid it. 3. The time it takes to move your foot from the fuel pedal to the brake pedal. Task comment The time it takes to move your foot from the fuel pedal to the brake pedal is only one component of the driver's total reaction time. First, the eyes communicate information to the brain, then the brain communicates with the spinal cord, the spinal cord commands the muscles, and only then does the transfer of the foot from one pedal to another begin. So the correct answer is the second one.

Novice drivers are not yet able to accurately track traffic situation. Moreover, all their attention is focused on the control process itself - muscle memory has not yet been developed - the legs confuse the pedals, and the hands “do not remember” where which lever is. At first, any of us, along with positive emotions, also experiences constant stress. The natural reaction is to push all other road users away from you. It would be nice if they weren't here at all!

Forced to disappoint you. In today's life, you will not be able to keep a comfortable distance all the time. The vacated living space will immediately be occupied by advanced colleagues. So from the first steps you will have to drive in conditions where the distance to the vehicle ahead will be frighteningly small. Especially in traffic jams.

In this regard, I would like to give some advice.

You are lucky - the blue Opel driving in front of you is "transparent". Through it, you can clearly see what is happening further on the road.

Keep an eye on that car (which is in front of the Opel), and as soon as its brake lights come on, you can start to slow down. Another second, and Opel's brake lights will flash, but you are already ready for this.

But you can do it this way - move slightly to the left within your lane and control the development of events ahead. At least the left brake lights for those driving ahead are visually easy to determine.

Finally, there is another possibility - watch out for the shadows of cars ahead of you. During the day, shadows can be from the sun, at night - from street lights.

If the shadows far ahead have begun to stop, it's time for you to move your right foot from the gas pedal to the brake pedal.

Now about the safe lateral interval.

The interval (lateral interval) is the distance between the sides of the cars. It is important to observe a safe lateral interval in relation to neighbors traveling in the same direction as you on the right and left, but it is a hundred times more important to observe it in relation to oncoming vehicles. A side touch at an oncoming siding inevitably leads to terrible consequences. And here it is necessary to understand the following. At low speeds, we can, as they say, crawl through the eye of a needle. But the higher the speed, the wider the dynamic corridor the driver needs to safely control his vehicle.

Yes, here's something else. I almost forgot! But you probably already understood yourself - if your car is “transparent”, this creates comfortable conditions for those who are behind. And, therefore, the likelihood that he will “yawn” and hit you is sharply reduced.

2. How to “squeeze on the brakes” correctly.

To make it easier for us to understand each other in the future, let's learn the following three terms:

1. The distance traveled during the reaction time of the driver- this is the path traveled from the moment the danger was detected to the start of taking measures to avoid it.

2. Braking distance- the path traveled from the start of taking action to a complete stop.

3. Stopping path- the path traveled from the moment the danger was detected to a complete stop.

That is, the stopping distance includes both the distance traveled during the driver's reaction time and, in fact, the braking distance. A stopping distance is the distance traveled by the car from the moment the brakes are applied to the moment it comes to a complete stop.

Each driver has his own reaction, which is released by nature. We also do not control the time of operation of the brake drive. These components of the common stopping route are not in our power. But the length and trajectory stopping distance very much depends on the skillful or inept actions of the driver.

I'm talking about an accident that happened in front of my eyes.

The driver of the red car leaves the yard and sees that a blue car is approaching from the left, but the eye tells him: "I have time to turn, nothing bad will happen."

The driver of the blue car “slams on the brakes” and in a moment finds himself in the oncoming lane. The blow was so strong that the red one was thrown onto the lawn.

What happened, why did the blue car go into the oncoming lane? Why suddenly the movement became uncontrollable? And what is interesting - if now the driver of the blue car did not slow down at all, they would have left peacefully!

Here we need to get acquainted with a new term -wheel lock.

If the brake pedal is kicked to the floor, then all four wheels can be blocked instantly, that is, all four wheels will stop rotating.

But the car will not stop moving!

It will continue to move under the action of inertia, sliding the wheels on the road surface. I also call such a movement “skid”, and as long as the wheels do not roll along the road, namely, they slide, it is completely pointless to turn the steering wheel - this will not give any result.

The car is controlled until the wheels roll!

If the wheels are blocked, the car becomes uncontrollable!

Hence the conclusion - in all cases, the force on the brake pedal must be increased smoothly! If the situation is calm, this smoothness can be arbitrarily extended in time. If emergency braking is required, then the smoothness of pressing the pedal will be compressed to the limit in time. But still, it will not be a hit on the brakes!

What gives the driver such a smooth pressing? The driver will feel in time that he has crossed the line of what is permitted - the car “floated”, slipped. That is, now there is no braking - the wheels have lost traction! It is necessary to loosen the pressure on the pedal in order to restore the braking effect and return the car to controllability.

In the traffic police collection there are tasks where you are asked about just such a braking technique:

Reducing the braking distance of the vehicle is achieved: 1. By depressing the brake pedal all the way. 2. By intermittently pressing the brake pedal. 3. By depressing the brake pedal while using the parking brake system. Task comment Which answer is correct is clear - the second. Just do not take the expression "... by intermittent pressing the brake pedal" literally. This does not mean that you need to press - release, press - release. Since we are talking about a situation where it is required to shorten the braking distance as much as possible, it means that you need to press on the brake and you need to press hard. But without blocking the wheels! As soon as the driver feels that the car is slipping, it is necessary to slightly loosen the pressure on the pedal and immediately increase the pressure again, and loosen it again if necessary. And so on to a complete stop. This is the way to intermittently press the brake pedal.

But this ability to brake by intermittent pressing on the brake pedal is only necessary if your car not equipped with the so-calledABS(from English.Anti– lock breaking system- anti-lock braking system).

If the yellow ABS icon lights up on the dashboard of your car when you turn the ignition key, then you have this system installed. With her good work this icon will turn off after a few seconds.

And ifABSyou have, then press on the brake pedal, as they say, "from the heart." SmartABSwill not allow you to block the wheels.

It remains only to finalize right principles emergency braking.

1. In all cases (and especially on a slippery road), a minimum braking distance can only be achieved by preventing the wheels from locking.

2. If the carNot equipped with an anti-lock braking system, then the anti-lock braking system is the driver himself, and during emergency braking, his task is to keep the braking process on the verge of locking the wheels by intermittently pressing the brake pedal.

3. If the car is equipped with an anti-lock braking system, then just press the brake pedal to a complete stop, and the smart will do the rest for you. ABS.

And they ask about this in the exam:

What is engine braking.

Here, in our conversations about the technique of safe driving, the moment has come when we need to clarify one very important condition.

All questions of a theoretical nature in the tasks of the traffic police concern only cars with manual transmission. Accordingly, we will continue to talk about driving techniques with a manual gearbox.

On a dry road with a quality surface, wheel locking is an unlikely event.

At the same time, on a slippery road, a slight pressure on the brake pedal is enough, and the wheels no longer roll, but slide.

In such a situation, the most effective braking is engine braking. And even better - combined braking, that is, both the engine and the intermittent pressing of the brake pedal already known to us on the verge of locking the wheels. True, in this case, you will have to press the brake pedal not only smoothly, but also gently.

And engine braking means just taking your foot off the gas pedal. Moreover, it is also necessary to remove it not with a jerk, but by gradually reducing the pressure on the pedal. The engine speed will begin to fall, and if before that you were moving in fifth gear at a speed of 90 km / h, then gradually you will drive in the same fifth gear at a speed of 60 km / h. But the wheels do not slip at the same time, but are forced to rotate, and the car is still controllable!

Go from fifth gear to fourth, or even immediately to third, then to second, and if necessary, then to first gear. At the same time, the right foot is on the brake pedal, it slows down slightly all the time, and finally, the speed has dropped to quite safe, and you can continue to move even on such a slippery road. Then you have to “cut” in second gear at the speed of a pedestrian, but what to do: “The slower you drive, the longer you will be!”.

Experienced drivers love engine braking and almost always use it to one degree or another.

Even in the most harmless situation, for example, stopping at a red traffic light, experienced drivers they prefer not to coast in “neutral”, but simply transfer their foot from the accelerator pedal to the brake pedal, in this mode they drive up to the intersection and only in the immediate vicinity of the stop line do they shift the gear lever to the neutral position.

A special case is the movement on a long descent.

The brake discs of a passenger car during urban driving heat up to a maximum of two hundred degrees. This is undesirable, but quite tolerable - the brakes remain operational.

If you press the brake continuously, the temperature can rise to 400-500 degrees. Now this is really dangerous! When discs and pads overheat brake system almost completely stops working - the pads slide over the hot disc like clockwork.

This can happen if, on a long downhill, you roll downhill in neutral, braking all the time, not allowing the car to accelerate too much.

The brakes can be spared if you descend by applying engine braking. It is enough to engage a downshift (third or second) and take your foot off the accelerator pedal. The car would be happy to accelerate, but it is held back by the crankshaft of the engine, which does not want to rotate faster (you do not press the accelerator pedal, and in idle mode the crankshaft speed is still only 800-900 rpm.). And at such speeds, yes, in second gear, the car drives slowly.

On this topic (movement on steep descent) in the traffic police collection there are two problems, and at least one of them requires a little commentary.

How should I select a gear when braking with an engine, taking into account the steepness of the descent? 1. The steeper the slope, the higher the gear. 2. The steeper the slope, the lower the gear. 3. The choice of gear does not depend on the steepness of the descent. Task comment Experienced drivers use this formula: “In what gear I will go up this mountain, in the same gear I will go down this mountain.” The steeper the climb, the lower gear you have to shift to overcome it. Accordingly, the steeper the descent, the lower the gear will be required in order to safely descend later.

Another special case is the water barrier.

At a speed of movement (80 km / h and above), the water simply does not have time to “escape” from the wheel.

As a result, under the wheels a so-called water wedge tires lose traction and the car becomes uncontrollable.

This phenomenon is also calledhydroplaning.When hydroplaning, the car does not respond to either the steering wheel or the brake!

But this is only until the speed decreases and the wheels push through the water!

Therefore, if a terrible thing has happened, and the car has swum, you should not turn the steering wheel and put pressure on the brake pedal. When the speed drops and contact with the road is restored, the turned wheels will surely cause the car to roll to the side. And if at the same time you also block the wheels by pressing on the brake pedal, then the car will skid.

Wheels are, of course, not skis, and the car weighs more than a skier. But if the puddle is deep, and the speed is under 100 km / h, then you can also slide on the water surface by car. Only this is no longer a pleasure, but a mortal danger. What will we do if a “water wedge” has formed under the wheels and hydroplaning has begun? 1. Let's press on the brake pedal. 2. In no case! We will brake with the engine, reducing the pressure on the accelerator pedal. As the speed drops, contact with the road will be restored, and with it the controllability of the car will be restored. And here it is important that the wheels do not slip, but are forced to roll along the road.

Hence the conclusion - if the puddle is large and deep, it must be overcome carefully and at low speed.

But this alone is not enough. In a deep puddle, the brake mechanisms will definitely pick up water.

And if the brake pads are thoroughly moistened, their wonderful frictional properties disappear.

The driver presses the brake pedal, the pads are regularly pressed against the discs, but there is no braking - wet pads rub against the discs without any resistance!

What to do? Wait until they dry? If summer is in the yard, you can, of course, wait, but you will have to wait a long time. And if it's winter, the pads will get icy anyway, and where to go with such brakes?

Therefore, it is best to dry the brakes on the go, observing all safety measures, namely: we occupy the extreme right position on the roadway, turn on the emergency gang and, moving in first gear, periodically press the brake pedal. Friction will heat up the pads and discs, the water will evaporate, and braking will be restored.

This is how you will be asked about it in the exam:

3. Movement speed.

Under ideal conditions (when driving on dry asphalt and in clear weather), drivers can safely move at the speed allowed by the Rules on this section of the road. However, if the pavement is slippery or visibility is poor, drivers instinctively slow down to what they feel is safe under the given conditions.

That is, in difficult road conditions, the choice of a safe speed is subjective - each driver decides for himself at what speed he will go further. And in this case, the driver is guided not by the speedometer, but by his own feelings. At the same time, the universal rule remains immutable:

In any conditions safe speed this is one in which the stopping distance is obviously less than the visibility distance!

In addition, it must be borne in mind that the human eye is an imperfect device. Numerous studies confirmed - in the dark and in conditions of insufficient visibility, the eyes deceive us and, moreover, deceive us to the side greater danger!

In the fog, it seems that oncoming cars are barely crawling, and the driver begins to prepare for the oncoming siding too late. Now this is really dangerous!

It would be better if it seemed to us that they were going fast, then we would slow down in advance and increase the lateral interval.

But the distance to objects in conditions of insufficient visibility seems to be greater than in reality.

And it's dangerous!

It just seems to us that the car in distress is still far away. In fact, it's time to slow down! In fog, the distance to objects is perceived distorted and always in the direction of greater danger.

It would be better if it seemed to us that it was already within reach, and we would begin to take measures in advance.

And even in clear weather, not everything is so perfect - with an increase in speed, the driver's field of vision narrows sharply - the driver in front controls everything, but he may not see the danger from the side.

4. Some features of the use of external lighting devices.

In heavy fog or snowfall high beam headlight is ineffective. A light beam 100 meters long simply does not reach the roadbed, completely disappearing in a hundred-meter thickness of fog (or thick snowfall).

From the driver's seat, it looks something like this. The driver does not see the road, but only sees fog (or falling snow).

The beam of low beam headlights is shorter (45 - 50 meters), and something will break through the 50-meter wall of fog - part of the light beam will reach the roadbed. And if you also add foglights, then the visibility of the road will become quite tolerable.

The flat and wide beam of fog lamps illuminates the road very close to the vehicle.

From the driver's seat it will look something like this.

Conclusion:

When driving at night in dense fog or heavy snowfall, fog lights work together to provide the best visibility. with low beam headlights .

And of course, the speed must be chosen such that the stopping distance is less than the visibility distance.

And one more thing that drivers should always remember!

In the dark, approaching the top of the ascent, it is always necessary to switch on low beam headlights!

If this is not done, then already 100 meters before the top of the ascent you will not see the road - the beam shines into the sky without touching the roadbed. This is first.

And, secondly, having met at the top of the ascent, the drivers will blind each other at the same time (if they do not switch to low beam in advance).

5. Maneuvering. security requirements.

5.1. Start of movement.

You can fail the practical driving test if you get into the car incorrectly and get out of it incorrectly. There are no instructions in the Rules on this matter, and in life you can get in and out of the car as you like - no regulatory legal acts provide for punishment for this.

Another thing is that security depends on it, and security, as you know, is above all.

Therefore, they will start asking you about the correct landing and disembarking already at the theoretical exam:

What should a driver do when getting into a car parked on the sidewalk or on the side of the road? 1. Walk around the car in front. 2. Walk around the back of the car. 3. Task comment We are talking about landing in a left-hand drive car parked on the right side of the road. If you bypass the car when landing behind , then you can not see your own death. That way it's much safer.

What should a driver do when disembarking from a vehicle parked on the sidewalk or on the side of the road? 1. Walk around the car in front. 2. Walk around the back of the car. 3. Both options are allowed. Task comment If you bypass the car after disembarkation front , then again you can not see your own death. And if after disembarking bypass the car behind , then you can see the approaching danger. There is a real chance to survive.

5.2. Safe U-turn using the adjacent territory on the right.

In a practical driving test, you may well be asked to turn around on such a narrow road using the entrance to the yard.

In principle, you can do it this way - turn right into the courtyard, stop, and then cross the road in reverse.

True, in this case, you have to pretty much turn your head - the danger is approaching you from all sides.

But it is possible and vice versa - to drive into the yard not forward, but in reverse. To complete the turn, it remains only to turn left.

Don't you think that it is both more convenient and safer?

5.3. Safe U-turn using the adjacent territory on the left.

If the yard is on the left, then it’s not easy to drive into it in reverse.

In this case, it is better to “dive” into the yard in front.

True, you will have to leave in reverse, well, the danger can only be from behind. And you just look there.

And again, I must tell you that in life you happen to turn around this way and that, and no one will punish you for it. And on the exam, it is imperative to demonstrate knowledge of safe maneuvering techniques, otherwise it will be counted as a mistake.

There are questions about such turns (using the adjacent territory) and Tickets. They ask right there: "Which picture shows on right

Or: "Which picture shows way to turn around using the adjacent territory left ensuring road safety?

Now I have the right to expect that the answers will not cause you any difficulties.

5.4. Competent tactics of passing a curved section of the road.

If the road turns right.

If the road turns right, the driver can afford to take extreme left position on one half of the roadway. This is done in order to maximally "straighten" the trajectory of movement on the turn.

Pay attention - at the exit of the turn, the trajectory of movement is already almost a straight line.

But this is extremely important! - if the trajectory of movement has no curvature, then there is no centrifugal force tending to demolish or overturn the car.

In this figure, the driver initially pressed against right edge roadway. Thus, he expected to straighten the curvature of the turn. And at the initial stage, he succeeded.

But what did this tactic lead to? - he "bursed" into a continuous marking line, and now, in order not to fly into the oncoming lane, a sharp turn of the steering wheel is needed! At the same time, you also have to slow down, and then the skidding of the rear axle of the car is almost guaranteed.

If the road turns left.

In this case, in order to straighten the curvature as much as possible, it is necessary to press as close as possible to the right in the initial phase of the turn. And at the exit of the turn, it is necessary to set such a trajectory of movement so that it does not differ much from a straight line.

In this figure, the driver did everything the other way around - first he pressed himself to the left, then he “buried” into the side of the road, braked, sharply turned the steering wheel to the left, and then the car’s movement took on an uncontrollable character.

You will see pictures like this in exam papers I took them from there. Only there will be no clue in the form of cars going into a skid. Only trajectories will be shown - literate and illiterate. But is this a problem for a competent driver.

5.5. Overtaking is the most difficult and dangerous maneuver.

Overtaking is always moving into the oncoming lane. And, therefore, before deciding to overtake, the driver must accurately calculate the path of the upcoming overtaking - whether he will have time to return to his lane without interfering with either the driver of the overtaken car or the driver of the oncoming car.

And it is also extremely important to position yourself so that the driver of the overtaken car sees you all the time in the rear-view mirror and knows about your intentions.

The soul is much calmer if you keep a safe distance. From here, by the way, the oncoming lane is well visible, and the truck driver sees you in the rear-view mirror.

And even if the attempt to overtake is unsuccessful, it is not too late to return back to your lane.

6. Stopping and parking on slopes.

When stopping and parking, the Rules oblige drivers to take all measures to prevent spontaneous movement of the vehicle. This requirement can be read in the last paragraph of Section 12 of the Rules.

Rules. Section 12. Clause 12.8. The driver may leave his seat or leave the vehicle if he is necessary measures excluding spontaneous movement of the vehicle or its use in the absence of the driver.

The rules do not specify what "all measures to prevent the spontaneous movement of the vehicle" are. And in general, what should be on the road for our car to go on an independent trip without us.

This can happen when stopping or parking on slopes.

Of course, the first step is for both drivers to apply the handbrake. But this is not “all measures”. If you leave the car, then, after turning off the engine, do not forget to engage first gear (if the car has a manual gearbox). It's like another handbrake - the wheels cannot rotate, being connected to a stationary crankshaft of the engine.

Well, if the car is with automatic transmission, then, of course, the selector knob to the “P” position.

But it turns out that this is not “all measures”!

And the handbrake, it seems, is tightened, and the gear is engaged, and, nevertheless, statistics knows many cases when vehicles parked on slopes suddenly began to roll down, crippling equipment and people. Therefore, competent drivers in this case use another wise trick:

It is necessary to turn out the steering wheels of the car correctly!

CarsAAndBstanddownhill .

Automobile A front wheels rests on the sidewalk curb and will not go anywhere in the absence of a driver.

Automobile B may start spontaneous movement (if, for example, his handbrake is faulty).

CarsINAndGstandon the rise .

Automobile G can also roll down (until the rear right wheel hits the sidewalk curb). And, as you understand, this is not good.

This road has no sidewalk, and therefore no curb. There is only a shoulder, which is always located on the same level with the roadway.

Cars A And G, if they go without a master, they will go off the road. And it's much better than on the roadway.

And here are the cars B And IN just go to the roadway, which is completely unacceptable.

You will see such drawings in examination papers, I took them from there. Only there will be no clues showing the trajectory of the spontaneous movement of cars. It will only be shown who turned the wheels in which direction. But is this a problem for you, for competent drivers.

7. Car skidding.

With any braking, the weight of the car is transferred to the front wheels. That is, the front wheels are firmly pressed against the road, and the rear wheels, on the contrary, tend to break away from the road.

In such a situation, a small lateral force is sufficient for the rear axle of the car to begin to rotate around the front axle.

This phenomenon is called a car skid.

Where will this lateral force come from?

To the greatest regret, it will definitely be taken, and there are plenty of reasons for this!

7.1. Car skidding under heavy braking.

When braking, the car is dragged forward by one single force - the force of inertia. And this force is applied to the center of gravity of the car.

And as many as four forces resist the force of inertia, namely, the braking forces four wheels car. In this case, the main load falls on the brake mechanisms of the front wheels (it is not for nothing that the front brake pads wear out faster than the rear ones).

So, when braking, the rear wheels are weakly pressed to the road and therefore prone to blocking. It is enough to sharply press the brake pedal, and now they no longer roll, but slide, having lost traction with the road surface. In this case, almost all braking is carried out only by the front wheels.

Now imagine that the left front wheel brakes more efficiently than the right. There can be many reasons for this - for example, different tire pressures, or the asphalt is dry on the left and wet on the right. Yes, sometimes it is enough for one of the wheels to roll along road markings, and another on asphalt!

In this case, when braking, a moment of forces immediately arises, tending to turn the car around.

As a result, the left side of the car starts to move more slowly than the right side. There is a skid of the rear axle of the car or just a skid of the car.

The further movement of the car will resemble the movement of a stone thrown on ice - the stone spins and spins, but flies in a straight line to where it is dragged by the force of inertia.

First natural reaction inexperienced driver- Apply even more pressure on the brake. As you understand, this means that the skid will continue. The reverse action can change the situation - take your foot off the brake pedal.

They removed their foot from the brake pedal, and immediately the moment of forces that turned the car around disappeared. But the force of inertia has not gone away, it still drags the car forward! It doesn't matter, we turn the steering wheel in the direction of skidding and align the trajectory of the car.

Note. As we have already decided, a skid of a car is a skid of the rear axle. rear wheels tend to get closer to the front. In this case, while leveling the car, the driver turns the steering wheel towards the approaching rear wheels. This is what is called "turning the steering wheel in the direction of skidding."

Let's see how you will be asked about this at the exam in the traffic police:

To stop a skid caused by braking, the driver must first: 1. Stop the started braking. 2. Disengage clutch. 3. Continue braking without changing the force on the brake pedal.