How to get out of the snow - tricks that will help you drive more confidently in winter.
How to get out of the snow, start on ice, overcome snowdrifts - knowing these tricks will make winter driving easier. One of the main problems that many motorists refuse to drive in winter is the fear of not coping with the difficulties of winter roads - stalling on rolled snow or ice, getting stuck in a snowdrift, when leaving a parking lot, etc. Meanwhile, the simplest winter tricks, backed up with skills, they will help overcome fear and not give up on a car when you need it most - in cold weather, blizzards, slush. 
So let's get on the ice. Modern Winter tires, even without studs, with proper handling of the controls, they allow you to move off confidently and safely even on areas of bare ice or polished to a shine rolled snow. The most important thing in such cases is to release the clutch pedal as smoothly as possible. Do not let the engine develop high revs- the lower they are, the better. On cars with an “automatic” gearbox, you need to press on the gas as smoothly as possible, if the automatic transmission has a winter mode (W) or the ability to force second gear, do it. Also, from the second gear, you can get under way on the "mechanics" - this reduces the likelihood of wheel slip. 
If slipping fails to start after several attempts, try reversing and trying again in a new area where the snow or ice has not yet been polished by your wheels. The holes that your drive wheels dug under you in the ice (or rolled snow) can prevent starting. Getting out of them is usually not difficult, you need to rock the car, alternately quickly including first and then reverse gears. After several such “swings”, catch the moment when the car moves, for example, forward, turn on the first gear and, using the force of its inertia, leave the hole forward.
All of the above does not apply to cases of hill starting, which can really be a problem even for experienced drivers. Therefore, avoid parking lots, leaving which you will need to move uphill. If nevertheless this happens, you will need a small portion of sand (screenings, slag, earth), which will have to be poured under the drive wheels, creating a non-slip path one and a half to two meters long for them. Usually they are enough to start and pick up speed for further movement.
It can also be problematic for an inexperienced driver to get out of loose snow. Methods similar to those described above will help you get out. If, having started, the car immediately gets stuck in the snow, do not let it burrow, stop slipping and return (or slide) in reverse gear back to the starting point. There, turn on the first one and, gaining as much speed as possible, move forward again.
Using the force of its inertia, the car will move forward a little more. By repeating this operation several times, you can roll the track back and forth, paving your way for a more or less long acceleration and a decisive assault in the right direction. It may happen that, while skidding, you dug holes in the snow under the wheels, and so deep that it is impossible to lengthen them for subsequent acceleration. Then you have to work a little with a shovel (mount, branch): lengthen the hole, turning it into a track at least half a meter long, so that the car can accelerate at least a little and drive onto a flat surface.
Snowdrifts on the road should be overcome immediately, firmly holding the steering wheel and not slowing down the engine speed. The main thing, however, is to first make sure that in front of you is still a straight section of a swept road, and not a ditch, a turn or an intersection with high curbs. And one more important note - immediately, at a relatively high speed, you can only overcome those deep snowdrifts into which your car will fall with both wheels. If the snowdrift is “unsymmetrical” - it covers only one part of the road, or of very different depths, you should be wary of turning the car due to the fact that the wheels of one side (say, right) will meet more resistance than the other (left). It is better to overcome such snow marks in stages, breaking the road back and forth in short sections, as recommended above for leaving snowdrifts.
Almost every motorist at least once during the winter gets into a skid. The main thing in this case is not to get lost, not to throw the steering wheel and not to put pressure on the brakes sharply. At the very first moment, when the back of the car “floated” to the side while moving forward, you need to turn the steering wheel in the direction of the skid with a short movement and immediately return it back to central position. At the same time, release the accelerator.
The car stabilizes by leveling off on the road. However, if the corrective steering action turned out to be not very accurate (and this is likely to happen the first time), the skid may repeat, but in the other direction. And again you need to turn the steering wheel in the direction of skidding. This movement of the steering wheel should become automatic for you. To develop such a skill, it is worth a little practice on an empty snowy area. large sizes and preferably without any borders.
It should not be thought that almost every winter trip can end in such problems. They may only occur on your first winter trips. However, by overcoming these difficulties on your own, you will gain experience that will help you avoid such situations next time.
Getting stuck in a snowdrift or heavy snow is as easy as shelling pears and can take a couple of seconds. But dig out and get out of snow captivity it is often difficult, and it takes a lot of time. Driving instructors will give detailed instructions how to pull a car out of a snowdrift with minimal time and fuel.
Important "winter" rules
Reduce tire pressure, which will increase the grip area of the road and wheels. You can put something under the drive wheels, such as floor mats. They don't help much though.
The front wheels must be turned straight out, especially on rear wheel drive car. Even a small deflection angle will create resistance, and this will lead to slip.
Concerning front wheel drive car, then the position of the driving wheels is not important here. Moreover, it is recommended to turn the steering wheel before driving so that the tires can catch on.
Then we rock the car. To do this, we work with the clutch: we press it and release it, preventing the car from slipping. At least a few centimeters, but the car will move. Next, we add gas very smoothly, continuing to swing and, accordingly, move. It is important that the first revolution of the wheels is obtained without slipping.
How to deal with the machine?
Turn off traction control system. Put the selector in position "N", then in "D", without touching the gas pedal.
Next, we press the gas, and as soon as the car stops, press the brake, but do not release the gas. At this second, take your foot off the gas, the brake remains depressed, and the gear should be shifted to the "R" (backward) position.
Step on the gas, release the brake, get a rollback. Press the brake at the moment when the car seems to freeze. And so on. With such actions, you will rock the car and be able to leave the snow captivity.
Video on what to do if the car is stuck in the snow:
Good and clean road to you!
Image taken from 15minut.org
Three leading Russian specialists in counter-emergency training:
- Denis Vagin, chief instructor of the school driving skills bmw,
- Ernst Tsygankov, Head of the Center for Higher Driving Excellence,
- Evgeny Vasin, chief instructor of the school Audi Quattro
give advice on winter driving.
In most of Russia, the onset of winter adds a headache to motorists. We need to take care of buying winter "rubber", stand in line at the tire fitting, change summer oil for winter, buy carpets with high sides in the salon so that the street slurry flavored with salt from the boots does not fall on the floor.
But behind these troubles, the main thing is not to forget about the most important thing - along with sub-zero temperatures, snow and ice appear on the roads, and, therefore, drivers need to reconsider the manner of driving that has formed over the summer. Otherwise, unsuccessfully "revving", the first ice can be found in a cell, or, in the worst case, in a hospital bed.
Why just three? We decided that one head is good, but several are even better. Each professional accumulates his own experience, and getting several authoritative opinions at once is much more useful than just one.
For convenience, we have grouped the answers of the experts for each question. But if you want to know the advice of each of them in full - please! Scroll down below and enjoy.
What is the main difference winter driving from summer?
What are the tips for emergency braking on slippery road(with ABS, without ABS)?
What is the difference between driving a car with manual and automatic transmission transmissions in winter conditions?
What is the difference between driving a car with rear, front or all-wheel drive on winter road?
In most cases, the car breaks into a skid unexpectedly for the driver. How to learn to anticipate situations in which the wheels can lose traction?
How to leave deep snow by car with manual box gear?
How to get out of deep snow by car with automatic transmission?
Does it improve permeability? passenger car four-wheel drive?
Is it worth buying winter non-studded tires for the city, more suitable for driving on asphalt than for slippery roads and loose snow? How safe is it to drive out of town on these tires?
Are there any particularities when driving a car equipped with ABS systems and ESP, in winter conditions?
What precautions should be taken when driving uphill or downhill in winter?
Is it worth it to prepare yourself for critical situations on a slippery road (attend courses, read specialized literature)? Or to avoid them it is enough to drive carefully and follow the rules traffic?
What dangers, besides slippery roads and poor visibility, can a driver face on a winter road? How to avoid them?
Your most important "winter" advice to all drivers
BMW Driving School.
Denis Vagin, Chief Instructor, BMW Driving School
A: All the phenomena inherent in the behavior of a car on snow occur with the same success on asphalt. The only question is the intensity of the impact on the car. Therefore, for more slippery surface the driver must act more carefully. But fundamental differences I do not see and do not recommend focusing on the fact that you can do something on asphalt, but not on snow.
A: Tips are trivial. If a driver driving a car with ABS gets into a critical situation, then it is better to brake hard and with maximum effort until he is convinced that there is enough braking distance for a complete stop. On non-ABS vehicles, it's best to brake in a way that prevents the wheels from locking up. If you still feel like the wheels are locking up, apply intermittent braking. It is advisable to do this in gear to avoid unnecessary wheel slip.
A: On an automatic transmission, the beginning of wheel slip is not always clearly felt, because there is no rigid connection between the engine and the wheels. It may happen that the wheels will slip, you will not notice this, leave the gas at the same level and the wheel will begin to slip even more ... Doubts arise because the engine does not start to "roar" sharply - after all, the gears change depending on the speed of rotation of the wheels, and it , due to slippage, can be quite high.
Plus, the "automatic" has less engine braking capabilities. But with an automatic transmission it is easier to move off on a slippery surface - the "automatic" always does this smoothly and more reliably.
A: I must say that if the car is not affected by longitudinal forces caused by acceleration or deceleration, then the maximum possible speed on an arc depends solely on the coefficient of friction, that is, on the tread pattern and composition of your tires and the condition of the roadway. And this factor, you understand, does not depend on the type of drive.
In terms of acceleration, there is no difference in the types of drive - both on the front and on rear wheel drive the driving wheels begin to slide earlier than the rest. But, front-wheel drive, by virtue of it design features and weight distribution, on slippery roads allows faster acceleration and is more stable when driving in a straight line. But in the turn, front-wheel drive cars show pronounced understeer. A rear-wheel drive car, on the other hand, is less stable in a straight line, but, in my opinion, it is easier to maneuver on it.
All-wheel drive allows you to press the gas a little harder, since it has wheel slip even later. And therefore, such machines, of course, are out of competition in terms of acceleration dynamics on slippery surfaces. However, in a critical situation inexperienced drivers all-wheel drive vehicle it's harder to predict which wheels will slip first, and it's not always obvious exactly how to stabilize the car. As a result, there is an effect of surprise, which leads to an increase in the reaction time of the driver and other unpleasant consequences.
Although, if the wheels have already lost traction with pavement and the car went into a skid, then the stabilization technique, in a good way, does not depend on the drive. Quite a natural reaction of the driver to any slip is to release the gas. In this case, all cars behave the same, since there is no traction on the drive wheels. When skidding front wheel drive car the only thing that can be recommended is not to touch the gas and not turn the steering wheel. In the case of a rear-wheel drive, the gas actions are the same, plus turning the steering wheel in the direction of skidding.
True, when stabilizing front-wheel drive and all-wheel drive cars, there is one more nuance: sometimes, extremely rarely, but a situation is possible in which it may be necessary to press the gas to stabilize a sliding car. However, in practice this happens very rarely - when the car is in a very deep skid. Most likely, such a situation may arise not due to a driver's error, but, for example, due to an impact.
But such a skid recovery technique is very difficult and I do not recommend it for untrained drivers. In my practice, for example, even in the greenhouse conditions of the autodrome, it is very difficult to force the driver in a front-wheel drive car to press the gas exactly when it really allows the car to stabilize in a skid. Therefore, I do not recommend touching the gas either in front or in all-wheel drive. It is better for an unprofessional driver to rely on the reflex, and he demands to release the accelerator pedal.
A: Theoretically, skidding can occur without external causes at all. The culprit may be a different grip coefficient with the road surface under the right and left side of the car. This is especially true in cases where there is so-called snow "porridge" on the roads: somewhere it has already squeezed through to the asphalt, and somewhere there is snow. Also, the beginning of slipping is often caused by crossing the track.
If the road on the right and left is approximately the same, then the skid is due to an attempt to maneuver a little sharper than the road conditions allow. The transition of the car into a slip can also provoke a bunch of intense turns.
Well, rear- and all-wheel drive cars show a tendency to skid due to an overdose of gas at the exit of the turn. But at the entrance, all cars behave approximately the same: skidding is provoked by gas release, so it is better to plan the passage of a curved trajectory with constant speed without abusing the "game" with the accelerator pedal.
A: How to do it with mechanical box, everyone potentially knows, but few people know how to do it efficiently, because it’s hard to catch the vibration frequency of a car at which it can be rocked back and forth. I draw your attention to the fact that even a small slip in this case is fatal. The car will either burrow even more, or, turning the snow under the wheel, will dig a slippery hole under it.
In such a situation, by the way, the stabilization system does not need to be turned off. When you need to get out of a snowdrift, maximum traction occurs on the verge of slipping and ESP in this case, on the contrary, helps the driver.
If the car cannot be pulled out by swinging, and the snow under the wheels is shallow, in principle, there is another good way- "dig" to the asphalt. Sometimes it is worth spending 10 minutes on it and turning several kilograms of snow into steam. But, of course, it is better to do without such mockery of the car.
A: On the "automatic" everything is a little more complicated, because it takes a long time to switch gears from "reverse" to "drive" and back. Press the gas, move the car, for example, forward, and when it froze, without releasing the gas, press the brake. The car stops at top dead point, release the gas and, with the brake pressed, turn on reverse gear. We press the gas again and then release the brake - the car goes back with a slight acceleration. As soon as she froze in the back dead center, press the brake - and so on, until these amplitudes become large enough. The important thing is that at some point you brake the car without releasing the gas, because as long as you move your right foot from the gas to the brake, the car will roll down again. This is the main technique, but we must understand that, of course, it does not guarantee the exit from the snowdrift.
Yes, of course, the patency of such machines is much better. An all-wheel drive car has the main and indisputable advantage - most of the weight is concentrated on the front wheels, which are also driving. And the more weight falls on the drive wheels, the more they are loaded and the more difficult it is to break them into slip.
On front-wheel drive vehicles, the load on the front axle, as a rule, is also higher than on the rear - it accounts for about 60 percent of the car's weight. But rear wheel drive cars(for example, BMW) designers usually try to create an "ideal" weight distribution - 50:50. And not without success. As a result, only half the car's weight is on the drive wheels, which is why BMW often loses. front wheel drive cars both in cross-country ability and when driving on ice. Therefore, in the trunk of a rear-wheel drive car, to increase patency, you can sometimes throw something heavy, for example, a sheet of metal of a hundred kilograms.
A: An ambiguous question. Much has been said and written about this. Here the question, rather, is where and on what coverage it is possible to get into a difficult situation. In a situation where there is deep snow or slippery ice on the streets, and everyone around is driving at a speed of five to ten kilometers per hour, it is unlikely that any super-quality soft "rubber" or spikes will be required. And when driving along the Moscow Ring Road at a speed of 100 kilometers per hour, the need for good grip characteristics and handling "rubber" can be very useful.
It can be summarized as follows: you should be guided by what surface - on snow or on asphalt - you often have to take more intense actions. The choice is up to the driver.
A: I emphasize once again that the speed of movement along the arc, as well as braking distances, depend only on the coefficient of friction. What's more, braking with ABS on a loose road generally requires more distance than without. The reason is that the locked wheels burrow into the "porridge", while the ABS brakes, in fact, do not. It can be said that sometimes systems active safety even limit the capabilities of the car.
On the other hand, thanks to these systems, in a critical situation, the machine requires a simpler stabilization technique. Dramatically, thanks to the presence of ABS and ESP, nothing changes, but it is easier to drive a car with them - there is less chance of making a mistake.
A: It must be taken into account that the descent has a much more serious effect on increasing the braking distance than the ascent - on its reduction. A vivid physical example: on ice with a coefficient of friction of about 0.1, the limiting angle of descent at which you can brake at all is about five degrees. If the angle is larger, the machine will move down with acceleration when the wheels are locked. And on a five-degree rise, the stopping distance will be half as long as on a flat road.
Plus, when descending, even to move at a constant speed, it is often necessary to release the gas. And this leads to unstable behavior of the car.
Q: Is it worth it to prepare yourself for critical situations on a slippery road (attend courses, read specialized literature)? Or to avoid them, it is enough to drive carefully and follow the rules of the road?
A: If I say "no", you, given my position, will probably be surprised. So I'll say yes. It must be understood that although the skill of emergency braking is useful, another solution to the problem is theoretically possible. If your driving distance is two to three times your potential stopping distance, you won't need emergency braking. If you are able to create so much free space around you that you can get out of any difficult situation without problems - this is only welcome.
But sometimes other participants in the movement act inadequately, and the driver himself does not always have an accurate idea of the same braking distance or features of the upcoming maneuver. And when panic sets in, reflexes often work against us. Therefore, in order to deepen your understanding of the car, winter preparation Still, it is worth devoting at least one day.
This can be done even on your own, without an instructor - real ideas about the stopping distance and the capabilities of the car in a turn on a slippery road are always useful. But you should not check the stability of the car on public roads.
A: Dangers… For example, I am often uncomfortable with the very thought that a car might break down. In winter, this can be so critical in terms of one's own health that technical condition should be monitored somewhat more closely than when driving in the warm season. As for the movement itself - windows and brushes freeze, dirt is all around, it gets dark early, it gets light late - there are common factors that make the driver behave more carefully.
A: The main "winter" advice - reduce the intensity of your acceleration, braking and turning by two or three times, and then there will be no problems on a slippery road.
This is how classes are held at the Tsygankov school.
Ernst Tsygankov, Head of the Center for Higher Driving Excellence
Q: What is the main difference between winter driving and summer driving?
A: In order to adapt to new road conditions time is needed: for someone two weeks, for someone - three. The first week the driver must be very careful to just understand the behavior of the car. All sharp maneuvers hard braking needs to be excluded. In addition, it is necessary to "lengthen" the distance, as the braking distance increases.
And the car needs to be prepared for the winter. Those whose car "sleeps" on the street, and not in a warm garage, should fill in the "synthetics". But you need to start by putting winter tires. And if a person has a car with ABS, then spikes are required! And in general, it is desirable to "change shoes" in studded tires. Although everyone says that there is more asphalt in the city than ice, they are still needed. On asphalt, the car will stop with and without spikes, but on ice better than spikes there is nothing.
Q: What are the tips for emergency braking on slippery roads (with ABS, without ABS)?
A: If the car is not equipped with ABS, then on slippery roads it is necessary to use impulse braking techniques. For example, there is an intermittent way - to effectively slow down the movement of the car where asphalt and ice alternate, you need to apply the brake, release it completely, press again. Impulse reception - short, quick presses on the brake pedal - should also be used on a very slippery road.
With ABS, it is easier to stop in icy conditions, because the sensors of this system themselves recognize the condition of the road surface. However, if you have this ABS turned on very often - several times during the day - this is a bad symptom. So, you are just late with the start of braking. A professional ABS turns on only a few times during the winter. And for non-professionals every day a dozen times. We at the Center believe that ABS is like an ambulance - why should it be with you all the time?
Besides, anti-lock system changes the braking dynamics - when it is turned on, the car slows down either better or worse, depending on what is under the wheels. On a road with non-uniform grip - for example, asphalt-ice-asphalt-ice - the electronics sometimes stop braking to keep the car stable. And the driver is not ready for this. That is, he counts on stable braking, but it turns out that the car slows down well, then the brakes do not work. This often leads to stress and panic.
Therefore, I advise even those who have modern car with active safety systems, learn to ride so that they do not turn on. ABS starts to work with an effort on the pedals from 15 to 25 kg, depending on the model of the car. It is necessary to be able to slow down both smoothly and impulsively, without activating the electronics. ABS is already out of desperation when you have to hit the brakes and hope that the car will do everything right by itself.
Q: What is the difference between driving a manual and automatic car in winter conditions?
A: There is a fundamental difference. A mechanical box, if, of course, a person owns it, allows you to more actively resist a critical situation. "Automatic" is more passive. IN the latest vending machines there is also a manual gear shift, but usually, when a person gets used to the “automatic”, he stops shifting something altogether and, so to speak, “trains out”.
Secondly, to stabilize the car in emergency situations, there are unique tricks, for example, such as "gas-brake": when one foot presses on the gas, the other on the brake. And you can't do that on an automatic. An automatic transmission does not like it when two pedals are pressed at once - this contradicts the principle of its operation.
Although, if a person has a car with an automatic transmission, it would be good if he learned to brake with his left foot, releasing the gas pedal at that moment with the right. This skill can come in handy in a critical situation, since moving your foot from one pedal to another leads to the loss of precious time - an average of half a second.
True, it must be noted that there may be problems with such a technique. In an ordinary person, the left leg is not prepared for braking. And the right one, even for people who have been driving quite recently, constantly works - it presses either the gas or the brake - and a person knows how to dose its force on the pedals. But the left leg, if the driver has a car with "mechanics", only presses and releases the clutch, and if it's "automatic", then it does nothing at all. Therefore, she does not "feel" the pedals, and if the driver presses the brake with his left foot, then, out of habit, he will immediately block the wheels.
Q: What is the difference between driving a car with rear-wheel drive, front-wheel drive or four-wheel drive on a winter road?
This difference can be easily illustrated in situations where the car skidded. The reaction to the actions of the gas pedal and taxiing in cars with different type drive will be very different. On the rear-wheel drive, it is necessary to turn the steering wheel in the direction of skidding, and the accelerator is completely released in the first moment.
In a front-wheel drive car, you should never let go of the gas pedal in a skid, because this provokes rotation. On the contrary, you need to add a little gas. On full drive, hitting on clean ice or being in a skid, the gas pedal must be released, but only partially. If you throw the accelerator completely, then there will be a front-wheel drive effect - you will trust yourself. And if you press too hard, the wheels will start to slip, and you will throw yourself off the path. Three drives - three different human reactions.
Q: In most cases, the car breaks into a skid unexpectedly for the driver. How to learn to anticipate situations in which the wheels can lose traction?
A: This requires special training. Special winter driving courses are available not only at our Center. And we, for example, conduct it only on the ice - this is training "through a mistake." At our training ground, a student tries to overcome 200 drifts and, thus, he develops the necessary reflex. Even if you know theoretically how to act in a critical situation, this does not mean that you will be able to respond correctly - automatic skills are needed here.
What is the difference between a professional and a non-professional? The professional begins to react either to the earliest stage of a skid, or takes corrective action even before it starts. A non-professional reacts to sliding only when the car has already spun. That is, when it's too late to do anything.
I also want to say about the speed of taxiing. We at the Center believe that active driver, which, if I may say so, is protected from the negative consequences of critical situations, makes four movements of the steering wheel per second. At the same time, a professional racer can make eight movements in the same second, and an unprepared motorist - God forbid, one.
Q: How do you get out of deep snow with a manual transmission car?
A: First of all, in no case should you skid! A rapidly spinning wheel warms up the snow - it begins to melt, water forms, then ice, and the grip disappears completely. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to roll out of the snowdrift, accelerating so that the wheels do not start to spin.
Q: How to get out of deep snow with an automatic transmission?
A: If a car with an automatic transmission is stuck in the snow, it will be very difficult to get out by rocking the car. First of all, due to the fact that it takes a lot of time to shift gears.
Ernest Tsygankov Center for Higher Driving Excellence.
Q: Does four-wheel drive increase the cross-country ability of a passenger car?
Four-wheel drive in winter has an advantage not only due to the fact that it increases the cross-country ability of the car. Such a car brakes more efficiently, since the engine helps to stop all four wheels. But when it comes to maneuvering, an all-wheel drive car on a slippery road is much more difficult to control than a car with a single drive axle, since it requires a very fast reaction.
Here it is worth remembering that all-wheel drive transmissions are very different from each other. For example, there are cars in which the torque is constantly equally distributed between the front and rear axles. There are cars with "smart" all-wheel drive. For example, Mercedes has 4Matic, which transfers most of the thrust from the engine to the rear wheels. This is done so that the front wheels do not complicate the control of the car when maneuvering.
Q: Is it worth buying winter non-studded tires for the city, more suitable for driving on asphalt than for slippery roads and loose snow? How safe is it to drive out of town on these tires?
A: The fact is that on asphalt you will stop on spikes, but on ice no one has come up with anything better than spikes. Of course, in a warmer climate than ours, studded tires are not really needed. For example, such tires are banned on autobahns in Germany. But in Finland on non-studded tires you simply will not be allowed. At the border they will send to the store to buy spikes.
Q: Are there any peculiarities when driving a car equipped with ABS and ESP systems in winter conditions?
A: Now there are many modern additional electronic systems active safety is also very good for an unprepared person - such systems help him not to make mistakes. But in some cases, these mechanisms can be harmful. For example, you are caught in a spin and you need to "turn" the car in order to go straight ahead. To do this, you need to force the drive wheels to slip, but the traction control device will not allow you to do this.
Q: What precautions should be taken when driving uphill or downhill in winter?
A: If the climb is very steep, then it is advisable to take advantage of the momentum of the car. That is, to enter with acceleration. Otherwise, at a certain point on the hill, the wheels may not have enough grip and they will begin to slip.
The descent has its own difficulties. When driving downhill, in response to braking, the wheels lock up earlier than on a flat surface - it is easier for the car to “slip”. Therefore, in no case should you go down the mountain in neutral or "freewheel". It is very dangerous. And the transmission should be turned on lower in order to move "vnatyag".
Q: Is it worth it to prepare yourself for critical situations on a slippery road (attend courses, read specialized literature), or to avoid them, drive carefully enough and follow the rules of the road?
A: For safe management car on slippery surfaces special training necessary. In such conditions, knowing how to safely drive a car does not save a person. You need reflexes, automated skills. If you have to think first and then do something, you don't have enough time to act.
Q: What hazards, besides slippery roads and poor visibility, can a driver face on a winter road? How to avoid them?
A: In general, the main danger is low level driving skill. As a result, a person reacts inadequately to emergency situations. For example, when skidding, it takes actions that not only do not help stabilize the car, but, on the contrary, “twist” it even more.
In addition, there is another problem that has become particularly relevant in recent years - many do not follow the rules on the roads. As a result, motorists make maneuvers unexpectedly for other road users and create emergency situations.
Q: Your most important "winter" advice to all drivers
A: The main advice is to prepare both the car and yourself for the winter road. Then everything will work out.
Occupation of the Audi Quattro school.
Evgeny Vasin, chief instructor of the Audi Quattro school
Q: What is the main difference between winter driving and summer driving?
ABOUT: Fundamental difference is that on a winter road, all driving actions must be carried out much earlier than in summer. It should be borne in mind that when braking, the car can slide with locked wheels, and when moving in an arc, it can be taken out of the turn. If water poses a danger to the driver in summer, hydroplaning may begin, then in winter snow is more dangerous, which lies in the form of porridge on the road. In addition, leaving the rolled track can deliver a lot of trouble. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the road and choose an adequate road conditions. speed mode.
Q: What are the tips for emergency braking on slippery roads (with ABS, without ABS)?
A: First about ABS. Many automakers advise drivers to press the brakes with all their might, and ABS, they say, will do its job. But I would not recommend acting like this, because even for an experienced driver, the operation of this system causes discomfort and an incorrect reaction. Feeling the blows on the brake pedal, any person reflexively briefly releases it, and due to this, the braking distance increases. Therefore, on a slippery road, I would advise you to keep your distance and try to dose the braking force in such a way as not to bring the anti-lock system to the operation.
When braking on a slippery road in a car without auxiliary systems it is necessary to imitate the force on the pedal ABS work. To do this, feeling the blocking of the wheels, you must not throw the brake, but only release it a little. This technique works well and athletes on their cars, as a rule, turn off the ABS, because the electronics can make mistakes in some situations.
Q: What is the difference between driving a manual and automatic car in winter conditions?
A: On manual transmission vehicles, a greater range of countermeasures is available to the driver to cope with extreme situations on the winter road. For example, in this case, in the arsenal of a motorist there is a gearbox on which you can turn on downshift and, thus, when braking, help the car with braking by the "engine".
In addition, in some emergency situations you can stabilize the car with the clutch pedal. For example, when in a turn the car does not obey the steering wheel and leaves the arc, briefly depressing the clutch, you can completely remove the traction from the wheels, thereby allowing them to again cling to the road surface.
On a car with an "automatic", if necessary, you can also switch to a lower gear by sharply pressing the gas. But, compared to a manual gearbox, this is less effective, because any, even the most modern "automatic", has a certain phase of thoughtfulness.
Q: What is the difference between driving a car with rear-wheel drive, front-wheel drive or four-wheel drive on a winter road?
A: Depending on the type of drive, the car behaves differently on slippery roads. A rear-wheel drive car can be schematically represented as a person pushing a cart in front of him. Therefore, any emphasis on the front axle, even a slight one - a tubercle or snow slurry - spins the car. Inertia on rear axle gotta go somewhere. As a result, loss of traction on the rear-wheel drive drive wheels results in a skid.
On front wheel drive slippage of the wheels of the drive axle leads to the withdrawal of the car outside the turn. And at all-wheel drive vehicles with an overdose of gas in a turn on a slippery surface, there is something between a rear-wheel drive and a front-wheel drive reaction. Summing up, I would probably say that a car with all-wheel drive behaves more stable.
To cope with loss of control on any type of drive, always turn the steering wheel in the direction of the skid. In addition, it is necessary to gradually increase the engine thrust - when the car is sliding, the driving wheels should never be left without torque. Otherwise, those forces of inertia that have already arisen during the loss of adhesion to the road surface will develop chaotically.
True, on cars with different types of drive, the phase of "skid meeting" with the steering wheel will be different. On the rear drive, you will have to work longer with the steering wheel, on the front - this is a very short dosed movement - just meet the skid, and immediately the wheels are set straight. And in an all-wheel drive car, the steering wheel will have to do something in between the two above-mentioned movements.
Q: In most cases, the car breaks into a skid unexpectedly for the driver. How to learn to anticipate situations in which the wheels can lose traction?
A: To foresee means to acquire a skill, to learn to act automatically. That is, first a person acquires knowledge, then skills, and then skill. Therefore, explain in words how you can foresee dangerous situations on the road is impossible. You can say: "Welcome to driving schools, come and practice."
If we still talk about advice, then I can return to where I started: you need to "see" the road as best as possible, look ahead as far as possible. And in order to learn to anticipate critical situations, you need training, training and more training ...
Q: How do you get out of deep snow with a manual transmission car?
A: A car with a manual transmission always has a clutch that can rock the car - by pressing and releasing it to the point of closing and opening the drive and driven discs, and thereby preventing the wheels from spinning.
"Snowfall of the century", as they dubbed disaster, crashing down on central part Russian meteorologists, once again put motorists before a choice: follow the advice of the TsODD and transfer to public transport or gather your will into a fist and cope with the weather on your own. Let's talk about how to prepare for snow drifts and learn to get out of snow captivity without the help of a janitor.
Failed? We think!
So, a typical situation: a car parked the day before turned out to be knee-deep in snow, or even worse - cut off from the road by a crumpled snow dump left by snowplows.
First of all, don't despair! In most cases, this is an ordinary situation that can be dealt with in a few minutes. First, evaluate the possibilities - yours and your car. And at the same time, take a look at whether there are people nearby who can help you get out if something goes wrong - passers-by, motorists, cleaning equipment, or just a janitor with a shovel. Even in the most hopeless case, there will always be a "pushing force" in the form of passers-by and other cars.
Think over how and where you will go, clean the body and windows of the car from snow and warm up the engine. And at the same time, evaluate the fuel reserves - if the reserve light is already on, you are at great risk: in the increased speed and slippage, the remaining fuel can fly into the pipe before you get to the nearest gas station.
Having dealt with the body and providing visibility, try to clear the snow at least a little in front of each of the wheels of the car. This can be done with a shovel or any other improvised item, or even at all. own hands and legs (there is nothing shameful and strange in this). Thus, you, albeit a little, but facilitate the first centimeters of the path to your car. And, as you know, it is the initial impulse that largely decides whether the car will drive or start helplessly spinning its wheels in place.
If in doubt about the success of the operation, you can resort to the most simple and proven method - to find a well-trained snow specialist armed with a shovel (for a fee, he will quickly and zealously clear a path for your iron horse), but to begin with, it is worth resorting to more budget option- try to get out on your own.
Remember that in most cases you do not need to be afraid of snow - being freshly fallen, it is not capable of damaging bumpers and car body panels; such snow can be stormed safely. brake pipes and everything is vital important details the machines are also perfectly protected from external influences, there is practically no chance of damaging them. But with snow dumps of packed snow, you need to be extremely careful - it’s better to immediately dig them up to a safe height!
Leaving without assistance
So, you are ready for the exploits. Now let's go! To start off on an unstable surface, you need to prevent the wheels from spinning in place, that is, start off smoothly and do not turn off the engine. If you have enough powerful car, you should immediately turn on not the first, but the second gear (in the case of an automatic transmission, use winter regime). If possible, set the front wheels straight and try to move off as smoothly as possible.
It didn't work and the car stalled? Don't despair and let off the gas! In deep snow conditions, you will only exacerbate the situation and dig deep holes under the drive wheels! Remember that they will dig until they find a solid surface under them - dense snow, ice, asphalt or soil.
If you feel that the tires have lost their grip and are spinning in place, first remember if your car has an ESP disable button, forced blocking differential or plug-in all-wheel drive - in the vast majority of cases this is the right solution to the problem!
Is there anything from the named arsenal? Then get out of the car and inspect the wheels of the drive axle. This is much more productive than continuing to waste the engine, burning fuel and polishing the ice!
Further actions
So, you got out of the car and found that the wheels of the drive axle or one of them had dug a hole and were spinning in place, unable to break free from captivity. Look under the bottom: it's great if the chassis elements do not touch the snowdrifts!
Get back in the car and try to reverse, and then gradually fill the track. Usually the car returns to its original place easily and willingly. Using the "swing" technique, you can get out of the most difficult situations. To do this, you should alternately squeeze and release the clutch, while gently helping with the gas pedal, as if rocking the car back and forth - at some point the car will receive an impulse sufficient to jump out of the hole. After that, it remains only to carefully maintain the hook and prevent slipping.
Did the buildup help? Try to ensure the grip of the spinning wheel with any accessible way. Usually only one of them slips, while the second remains motionless. The reason for this is the differential of the car, which renders a disservice. For this you can:
- relieve tire pressure
By reducing the pressure, you will increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe contact patch of the tire with the surface. We strongly recommend using this method only if you have a compressor and a pressure gauge. You need to “poison” up to a value of 0.8–0.9 atm., No more. After being released from captivity, the pressure must be raised to the recommended one, so as not to damage the tires and not endanger yourself and others.
- add sand
Another great operating method- adding sand under the slipping wheel. Prudent drivers always carry a bag of sand, salt or cat litter with them. Other means are also suitable as an alternative - for example, branches or rubber mats. - use chains or sand-tracks
Trained motorists carry with them much more powerful and efficient tools - sand trucks and snow chains. Sand trucks are especially effective in deep loose snow. Thanks to their large surface area, they hold the car and prevent the wheels from sinking. The chains, on the contrary, dig perfectly and, if handled ineptly, can bury the car even more. Take a closer look at your neighbors in the parking lot - surely one of them has something of the above in the trunk.
- apply the parking brake
If your vehicle has a drive rear wheels, apply the trick: simultaneously revving and tightening the handbrake, you can block the operation of the differential (the slipping wheel is slowed down, the torque is redistributed). This method must be used very carefully - there is a high chance of overheating the brakes and damaging the pads. Alas, with front-wheel drive, this method will not work.
- rotate steering wheel
On front-wheel-drive models, another method works great: by turning the steering wheel, you can almost always find the wheel hitch, especially in combination with the buildup.
A car stuck in the snow is always unpleasant, troublesome and takes a lot of energy. In Russia, this is especially true with our snowy winter and long spring. The article provides a series of steps to help you get your car out of the snow and take preventive measures after that and of course avoid it.
If your car gets stuck in snow in late fall, winter or early spring - whether it's when you swerved off the road into a snowy rut or when it snowed while your car was parked - either way it can be frustrating and needs to be considered. what to do in this case. Let's figure out what to do if the car is stuck in the snow in winter.
Check exhaust pipe before starting the engine. If snow has covered it, clean it. This is done to prevent deadly gases from being created inside the vehicle.
First of all, straighten the wheels (make the front wheels parallel to the car) - this will greatly facilitate the exit from the snow "porridge". Further, only if you have a pump or a compressor for inflating wheels, lower them a little so that they get better grip with the road.
Discard most of the snow and ice from the wheels that carry the drive. Don't know what drive your car has. This is easy to determine by which wheels are spinning. If, for some reason, it is not possible to determine the drive of the car in this way, then a look at the engine installed in engine compartment will help determine this. If the engine is perpendicular (wider than it is long), you probably have front wheel drive. If the engine is located along the body of the car, then you are probably the owner of a rear-wheel drive car. Keep in mind, however, that many SUVs (rarely crossovers) can also have all-wheel drive.
It is most convenient to throw snow from the wheels with a shovel, which, however, may not be in your trunk if you have not taken care of it in advance. In this case, improvise: a screwdriver, a spray can, or any object will do to remove the snow under the stuck car and break the ice that forms under the tires. Delete loose snow in the direction of the car for half a meter to start moving, and even further, especially if the height of the snow cover on the route is higher ground clearance cars. If the car sat down "on the belly", then it is necessary to clean the snow from under the car with a shovel.
It is important to try to get out of the snow in low gear by very carefully working the accelerator pedal - you need to move with a minimum torque transmitted to the wheels, ideally, so that the wheels do not slip, but turn slowly but surely, and stop as soon as the wheels begin to spin. Thus, the most effective option: move back and forth until those appropriate moments when the wheels go into slip - first move back and, as soon as the car cannot move further, turn on the forward gear and also accelerate first (if the car moves at least one meter forward), and then coasting trying to make your way further forward.
On vehicles without special equipment traction applied distribution differential torque to each of the drive wheels (front or rear, depending on the vehicle). Because of differential wheels do not rotate With equal frequency rotation. The purpose of this is to ensure that the car turns smoothly without the tires slipping on the pavement. But this means that if one of the wheels slips and spins, the other wheels, which could have traction, receive little to no effort. In this case, rocking the car to the sides will help, however, this should be an extreme step, as the rocking wears out the car transmission a lot. In addition, for proper effective swinging, you must have at least two passengers so that you can stay behind the wheel and try to get out of the snow "porridge".
If you are well prepared for winter riding and you have special chains for such cases, then this is just great! However, there is a strong suspicion that you do not have them. Therefore, find something that can be placed under the slipping wheels - it can be weeds, tree branches, stones at worst. Be very gentle with the accelerator pedal and make sure no one is standing behind the car. Everything that you put under the wheels will certainly fly out from under the wheels at the first opportunity.
If available, sprinkle salt, sand, and/or cat litter under the drive wheels. The salt will help melt the ice that tends to form when you spin the wheels. Also, if you have excess windshield wiper fluid windshield or antifreeze (be careful with antifreeze in residential areas - pets like to drink it off the ground and can be poisoned this way) in your car, it can help melt snow and ice.
If all the above steps did not work, or - at your choice - when the body is exhausted, it is more expedient to find a tractor or freight car in nearby areas, or call services in order to get out of the snow.
After you drive onto a flat asphalt road, you may notice that the steering wheel begins to vibrate or oscillate at fairly high speeds. This is usually caused by snow getting into your tires from inside disk and cause imbalance. You must stop at safe place and shovel snow.
Always drive in winter winter tires(not all season). If you often go to the track, then it should be studded tires. Velcro is suitable for the city, and even then not always.
If you are moving forward after you are free, continue at a steady pace to a place with less snow where you can safely stop, or return to the asphalt road.
Keep some simple tools and aids in the trunk of a car in winter months, such as: a shovel, a small bag of sand, rock salt (table salt is a little worse, but also suitable), wheel chains. One or more of these items can greatly reduce the amount of time and effort required to free a vehicle stuck in snow. But the shovel can be left for the summer. In addition, bring a blanket or blanket with you, something to eat with long term storage (for example, canned food, stew) and water in a plastic bottle in case you need it a long period time to wait for help.
When you drive out of the snow jam, make sure the radiator is not clogged with snow. Clean it before driving further, otherwise it will cause overheating if air flow will be blocked.
Remember that too much high speed spinning a slipping tire causes overheating and tire damage. In addition, in the snow, the car will simply dig a hole for itself, and the likelihood of getting out of it worsens with each revolution of the slipping wheel.
