At courses in driving schools, potential drivers are warned that in the first year after the issuance of a license, it is better to abandon the idea self-management car in winter period. It is connected with increased complexity driving vehicle By snowy roads. Even in large cities, road services do not always cope with snow cover on the roads, and in rural areas or outside the main roads, they do not pay due attention to cleaning the road at all. For your own safety, the driver must learn the basic rules for driving on snow and ice in winter time of the year. In addition, these rules are very simple and obvious, but non-compliance with them can cost the driver and pedestrians their lives.
Driving on snow - basic rules
With experience, drivers begin to feel better about their car, and they do not even think about how to drive a car in winter. But in the first years of driving, while driving on sections of the road that were covered with snow, remember the basic precautions:
The above rules apply to any type of snow. In total, motorists divide snow on the road into 3 main categories. Each type of snow is characterized by its own driving style, which will allow you to avoid accidents.
In the middle or early winter, snow often falls without rainfall, and it falls loosely on the ground. Often outside the city on country roads or small roads, where there is practically no traffic, such snow can lie untouched by cars and road services. This type snow is the easiest to overcome - it must be driven at a good speed, trying not to slow down.
Loose snow should scatter from under the wheels of the car, and it is impossible to get stuck in it if you follow the rules for driving on snowy roads.
A difficult condition for a car driver is driving on wet snow. The main rule when driving on “heavy” snow is to exclude the possibility of a complete stop of the car as much as possible. The car must create its own track and move along it, rolling new snow into it and overcoming it with tires. Based on the laws of geometry to rear tires on turns they could pass along the rut created by the front, the best option will pass them with a maximum radius.
Attention: If the car has come to a complete stop in wet snow, on which it was moving with great difficulty, it is better to back up a little, and then start moving again. This will allow you to return the car to the desired track and continue to coast on it.
Please note that if the task is to overcome a large stretch of road with wet snow, it is better to attend to the deflation of tires. When driving on a road with such difficult weather conditions, lower the tire pressure to 0.7-1 atmospheres. It is recommended to move in a pre-selected gear, trying to keep the engine speed at the same level. If you begin to feel that the car may stall, it is better to stop, but not with the help of the brakes, but by continuing to move on the clutch (for manual box gears) or without depressing the accelerator pedal (for automatic transmission).
Snow crust is one of the most difficult conditions for vehicle movement. If to be long trip snow crust and it is impossible to avoid it - it is important to prepare tires for this test, and even better to find a partner who also needs to overcome a difficult section of snow-covered road.
You should move along the snow crust on flat tires to a value of 0.3-0.4 atmospheres. Due to the ice formed on the snow mass, the grip of the car's wheels is reduced to almost zero. At the same time, the hard ice crust has great resistance and hardly passes under the tires. Lowering tire pressure is recommended to increase the area of pressure on the snow crust, which will allow you to bend and break the ice crust.
- Come to a complete stop before turning without using the brakes;
- Further, the steering wheel is slightly twisted in the direction opposite to the turn, and the car backs up;
- After that, the steering wheel turns slightly in the direction of the turn, and the car moves forward.
Depending on the steepness of the turn, vehicle weight, engine power, snow icing and other parameters, it may be necessary to repeat the above procedure 2-3 times. This is necessary to maximize the width of the track from which the turn will be made.
If you manage to find a partner to drive across the road on which the snow crust has formed, he will act as insurance. One of the cars must move forward, pushing through the ice crust under itself, and the second, if necessary, will be able to pull it back if the car gets stuck.
Riding in ice
The rules for safe driving in ice are practically the same as the methods for moving on snow. However, if a snow embankment is often found on roads of low intensity, then ice tends to form on highways, long public roads and in the city. When driving in ice, you need to be extremely careful and do not forget about the following rules:
Before driving on the roads in winter, carefully consider the preparation of the car:
- It must be "shod" with winter tires;
- Mirrors and glasses are cleared of frost;
- A “snow cap” must be removed from the roof, which risks being on windshield when braking, which will lead to a dangerous situation;
- headlights, rear lights and other means of lighting and indication should be cleaned.
If you are heading to long trip, be sure to make sure that the battery is well charged so that you do not have to
Winter, as officials say, "It suddenly came again" ... The first snow is the first joy for someone, but for motorists it is a test of strength, big problems and ongoing risk. Considering weather and accident statistics, today we decided to talk about how you still need to drive in winter, what winter driving rules you need to follow to make driving safe in winter. The article will be of interest to beginners, as well as to those who think they know everything about winter driving...
So let's go ... How to drive in winter?
To begin with, without which winter driving is generally unacceptable.
There are several essential attributes of winter driving, first of all, winter tires, frost-resistant washer fluid, as well as serviceable lighting equipment.
If you are not driving winter tires, says the headmaster Audi Quattro Gennady Broslavsky, further conversation is simply useless. But spikes, according to Broslavsky, are not such a fundamental point. On bare, clean asphalt, which the capital's communal services sometimes delight motorists with, spikes hold the car even worse than non-studded tires. But at intersections and at traffic lights, where the road is always especially slippery, spikes help a lot.
Rule number 1. Driving on snow and ice should be smooth.
We are talking about the steering wheel and the pedals. Instructors are advised to imagine that you are slowly swimming in a pool where the water softens and slows down all movements.
But this general recommendation, and when in the morning you get into the car and find that you can’t just drive smoothly, but even start off, all the tips are somehow immediately forgotten. The driver accelerates, and the car, instead of moving where it should be, slides to the side, where another car is parked. Here it is desirable to remember one more rule ...Rule number 2. Gas during winter driving should be minimal.
The traction reserve, which is so nice to have in the summer, now only interferes - the wheels break into a slip, and all the traction is spent exclusively on grinding the ice crust on the asphalt. Even starting off in winter sometimes has to be in second gear (it’s not for nothing that many automatic boxes equipped with a winter mode work on this principle).
So, you leave the parking lot at minimum gas (it’s better to stall a few times and start again than to dig ruts with your wheels that will prevent you from getting out). If it doesn't work, try to get out of the swing. I pressed the gas - let go and pressed the clutch - again pressed the gas. Real masters can pull the car out of very unpleasant situations in this way, but this technique is quite useful for ordinary drivers. But in general, it didn’t hurt to think about something the day before, when they put it here - do not drive close to other cars, so that if your car starts to slide sideways, you don’t run into them. And if you stop for a short time, it’s better not to drive close to the sidewalk, where there is the most snow - you will drive in with acceleration, but you won’t be able to get back out. It is better to stand a little further from the edge. It is very bad to stop on a hill, if then there will be no way to move back. in reverse. When starting off, the wheels will definitely slip.
Which drive is better downhill?
Here, by the way, one nuance will be mentioned: it is easier to drive uphill on a rear-wheel drive, because the car squats at the start and the load on rear axle increases, respectively, reducing the likelihood of slipping. And the front leaders, on the contrary, are unloaded when starting off on a hill. Hence the well-known recipe: on the front-wheel drive, drive up the hill in reverse. However, this method should not be overestimated - maybe it is better to carefully slide down and try again, but only after accelerating harder. Of course, if there is no standing cars, which yours can scratch by moving sideways.
Rule number 3. If possible, brake better with the engine.
By the way, modern machines, as a rule, this is not prevented - they “understand” that when the gas is released, the driver most likely wants to slow down with the engine. And, of course, you should not expect something supernatural from the brake dynamics of the car. It is necessary to keep a large distance and brake in advance. Damned summer habits make themselves felt: the driver presses the pedal and waits for the car's usual reaction in such cases - and it keeps going. It is better, having left the yard, immediately, without waiting until life forces you, to make a few trial braking and immediately understand what you can expect from this process. For those with ABS, it remains just to press the pedal.
In the absence of ABS, it can be simulated
This is called intermittent braking. There is also a stepped one, when the pressing force changes from time to time, as well as many other types. But intermittent braking is the simplest, and people who are not too experienced are better off limiting themselves to it.
On a straight line, if you don’t have to slow down, there are no special problems even in winter. Unless a rear-wheel drive car can drive a little from side to side, and this tells the driver that not everything is good on the roads today. And the front-wheel drive is deprived of this warning - until he conceives some kind of maneuver, the car will go smoothly. Turn - home winter problem after braking.
: Turning is the main problem if you are not an experienced rider.
Winter for athletes is only a joy. Skidding for them is a familiar and useful phenomenon, and it is much easier to work it out on ice, because the speed to achieve the desired effect is much less. For ordinary citizen- vice versa. In winter, every driver should strive not to become a reluctant athlete. To do this, you need to slow down in advance and shift to a lower gear in order to drive smoothly along the arc, without braking, with a little gas.
If you drive up to the turn too fast, the car just stops fitting into it. It does not depend on the type of drive at all - in this case, any car takes out, which is accompanied by an unpleasant squeak of the wheels. It is by the creak that inexperienced drivers usually understand that not everything is going smoothly. When the car does not want to turn, the natural reaction is to turn the steering wheel harder. It turns out even worse: it is even more difficult for the front wheels to regain traction in such a situation. It is unlikely that someone will succeed without training, but in principle The right way is, firstly, to release the gas, and secondly, to slightly reduce the angle of rotation of the steering wheel. The front wheels are loaded when the gas is released (the car dives), and since they are already at a smaller angle to the road, it is more likely that they will catch on it and start spinning. Then you can turn the steering wheel back in the direction of the turn. And everything else that concerns the turn is already from the near-sports sphere, where it is better for an ordinary, not at all trained motorist to meddle.
After all, the opposite is true for athletes - they also cause a skid themselves. On the rear-wheel drive, for this you need to add gas after turning the steering wheel. The rear axle slips, and the car begins to turn the nose in the right direction. But the problem is that as soon as the skid begins, you must immediately turn the steering wheel in the same direction as the back of the car is in order to get it out of it. And this, alas, is more difficult than causing a skid. On front-wheel drive, adding gas will not cause any skidding. At low speed, the handbrake can help create a rear axle skid - turn the steering wheel and pull the lever. The rear wheels are blocked, the rear turns. On high speed do not do this - the handbrake may be damaged. Here it is necessary first of all to throw off the gas - while the car nods, the front wheels are loaded and become less prone to slipping. After that, if you turn the steering wheel, a slight skid of the rear axle may already begin, which helps to direct the nose of the car in the right direction. To make the skid stronger, you need to slightly apply the brake. But only a little, just touch the brakes, otherwise all the wheels will lock up, and the car will simply slide outward. And with a very light pressure due to the redistribution of the mass forward (peck), the lightweight rear axle begins to slide. Once again repeating that all this is not for ordinary drivers, we will mention the third way to cause a rear axle skid on a front-wheel drive. When approaching a turn, you must first turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction. And only after the car obeys, turn in the direction of the turn. With this preliminary turn, you kind of rock the car, and the buildup leads to a skid on the rear axle. But that's the problem, that every skid requires a way out of it - and this is more difficult than causing it. To succeed, you need to repeat the same exercise many times. Our learning experience shows that the longer you repeat, the better you understand how difficult it really is. And this feeling is already good sign, consider, have overcome the first stage.
Many people think that by correctly choosing the speed of movement along winter road, you can easily avoid skidding. But this is only partly true. Of course, a "guerrilla step" is very, very prudent, but the likelihood of skidding remains - with a sharp release of gas or braking, even during acceleration or acceleration ... In general, it will suffer completely unexpectedly.
Unlike a front wheel drive car, a rear wheel drive car is more prone to skidding the rear axle. This is explained simply: with the classic layout, the bulk falls on the front of the machine - it loads power unit+ gearbox, rear end much less loaded, which means worse grip driving wheels with the road.
But this does not prevent the true aces of "figure skating" from driving such a car on slippery road absolutely safe.
Situation one , common. Turning, bare ice, complete disobedience to the steering wheel - that is. demolition of the front axle. There is only one recipe - to "turn" the state of the "front" drift into a skid of the rear drive wheels. If it has suffered at high speed, it is enough to release the gas, provided that the front wheels are already "looking" in the direction of the turn, and slippery surface somehow, but keeps the car. But remember for the rest of your life, thank God: speeding on bare ice is a gross mistake, which is almost impossible to correct!
At low speeds, you should not even try to cope with the skidding of the “front end” with the help of service brakes - this will only aggravate the situation. Pull the handbrake or sharply and briefly press the gas, which will cause slipping rear wheels. By the way, the second option requires certain skills and "feeling" of the car: "going too far" with the speed, you run the risk of turning around 180 degrees. Downshifting with deliberately abrupt release of the clutch will also help, but even here it will take a lot of skill ...
Situation two , very common. The trunk begins to "overtake" the hood. "Game ahead of the curve", in general ... Hence the recommendation: do not wait for the skid, but get ahead of it with your experienced stunt actions, in this case extremely paradoxical - artificially provoking skidding. It may not work. Then - stop the sliding that has begun by sharply turning the steering wheel in the direction of skidding and immediately back, accompanied by a release of gas. The main thing here is to return the steering wheel immediately, without waiting for a reaction. Otherwise, such manipulations can lead to a "change of position": the car will carry the other side at an even greater angle.
Contrary to popular belief, if used carefully, it makes winter driving easier. The fact is that the drive "bridge" is not rigidly connected to the engine, but through a fluid coupling, which smooths out jerks and shocks in the transmission and will not allow the wheels to unexpectedly turn (lock) when the gas pedal is sharply pressed (released). That is, the transmission will "smooth out" possible driver errors (up to a certain limit, of course). But you have to consider speed! Forced downshifts plus speeding often equals a forcibly broken box or blocking of the drive wheels, followed by a forced skid ...
"I drive in winter, so I prefer front-wheel drive"- this is how many motorists argue. They feel more confident both in a turn and on a straight line, and assure that their cars almost do not skid. Indeed, thanks to the excellent exchange rate stability, front wheel drive car gives the driver a somewhat greater sense of confidence than " rear drive". The front wheels "pull", the rear ones obediently roll behind them. In addition, the engine constantly loads the front wheels with its weight, which significantly improves their grip on the road, and if the car has stalled, then the driver has a large reserve in reserve: turning the front drive wheels, you can usually find something to hang on to.
All this is so. But it happens that on an icy turn the car loses control, and no matter how the driver turns the steering wheel, it starts to slide in a straight line. What the unprepared will do: intuitively turn the steering wheel even steeper and then “hit” the brakes, which will finally take the situation out of control. "Don't throw gas!" - advise auto-aces. This is true, but there are many ways to return obedience to an uncontrolled car.
First, learn a simple truth: if the demolition of the front wheels has begun, the only thing that can bring them back to life is the skidding of the rear axle. Which one can be called different ways, depending on the current vehicle speed.
At low speed, it is enough to block for a moment rear wheels. This is achieved by careful braking: you can either slightly “pull” the handbrake, or gently step on the pedal. "Gas" at this moment cannot be weakened, but it is even better to strengthen it.
The main difference between controlled sliding front wheel drive car from rear-wheel drive is that the wheels need to be directed to the road, that is, in the direction where the car must go, and not at all in the direction of skidding, as we were taught in a driving school before. This is an axiom. But at speeds up to 40-50 km / h, you can retreat from it: a short turn of the steering wheel in the direction of the beginning skid will help orient the car in the right direction. Well, then go slowly on the gas, "pulling" the car out of the slide into a straight line on the road.
At high speeds, everything changes.
"Front-wheel drive" reacts very strongly to a sharp release of gas by skidding the rear axle. And our inexperienced driver, greatly frightened of the icy turn, involuntarily releases the gas pedal. He is not ready, oh, he is not ready for the reaction of the car to this convulsive action - and then there is the advice of the "experienced": "do not throw off the gas if the car has suffered." But he did the right thing, because we need this, only for a short time! A short-term release of gas will "rearrange" the car on the road, and all that remains is to "add" speed and "pull" the car into a turn.
But for the "teapot" it is difficult. Judge for yourself - the car carries at a decent speed, and instead of the "saving" brake pedal, you need to press on the "gas". So let's talk again correct algorithm actions: a sharp release of gas provokes the demolition of the rear axle, and at this very moment the driver turns the steering wheel in the direction of the beginning skid and adds gas. Keep in mind: you only need to look in the direction where you need to go (i.e. to the exit from the turn) and in no case to where the car is "carrying"!
If, nevertheless, the car "spun", then follow the example of experienced racers - brake and clutch to the floor! Without thinking! This will stabilize and stop the spinning car, and most importantly, the engine will not stall, which will help you quickly get out of oncoming lane and drive to a safe place.
It remains only to recall: a sharp release of gas can cause the car to rotate even on a straight section of the road, if ice unexpectedly appears under the wheels. The gas pedal must be handled very carefully: gently and meteredly press and release in the same way. And if you don't want "figure skating" - no sudden steering movements! But if it did start, then, on the contrary, act decisively. The sharper the steering wheel is turned in the direction of the skid, the faster the vehicle's leveling response. Having turned the wheels in the direction of skidding, return them back without waiting for the reaction of the car - otherwise the car will fall into rhythmic skid with increasing amplitude.
However, a snowmobile is not always a machine with two skis and one track. The desire to drive on the snow “like on asphalt” gave rise to many very interesting designs. Some of them have gone down in history, and some are very popular so far.
I think that the desire to embody the fabulous “our sledges go by themselves” appeared exactly at the moment when I screwed the internal combustion engine to my “reitwagen”. However, if everything was clear with the engine - it was invented, then things were much more complicated with the mover. The snow wheel is not very suitable. On dense and rolled (and who will roll it) it still rides, but on “chubby” - no way. An excellent solution is skids or skis, but they cannot be a mover, and the obvious caterpillar drive technology at the beginning, and even by the middle of the last century, did not develop further than canvas rags with transverse hooks. The option of metal tracks for small vehicles, of course, was not suitable.
snowmobile
A way out was found: on the wave of aviation striding by leaps and bounds, a “cart” was attached to a “cart” standing on three or four skis. aircraft engine and supplied with an aircraft propeller. I didn’t even have to redo anything - they just turned the propeller in the opposite direction so that it turned from a puller into a pusher - and off we went.
Snowmobile KA-30
Aerosleighs were quite popular in Siberia and the Far North, they cruised along frozen riverbeds, serving remote settlements, shifts of drillers and geologists, as well as reindeer herders living in the tundra. Snowmobiles were widely used during the Great Patriotic War, both by our troops and by the Germans.
One of the most popular and mass-produced models in the USSR was the Sever-2 snowmobile, developed at the Kamov Design Bureau in 1959. The body of the GAZ-20 Pobeda car was taken as the basis, to which skis and the AI-14 aircraft engine were attached - a star-shaped nine-cylinder unit with a volume of 10.4 liters and a power of 260 hp. The speed of the car was low, fuel consumption was noticeable, and such a car could carry a little cargo or passengers.
However, much closer to our snowmobile theme are the numerous self-made vehicles that local "kulibins" built in huge quantities in workshops and garages, since the design did not have any particularly complex elements. The body was often completely absent: a seat on the frame, skis, a motor, a screw - and go.
The obvious disadvantages of any snowmobile can be called high flow fuel at not the most high speeds, mediocre handling, an almost complete lack of brakes, difficulty in overcoming deep sections of powder and not the best acoustic comfort for riders. Apparently, due to the combination of these reasons, the theme of a hybrid of an airplane and a sleigh did not find development.
Puker Karakat
Machines on wheels turned out to be much more efficient and versatile. low pressure- pneumatics. In different parts of the country they are called differently: karakats, pneumatics and even pukers, but the meaning does not change from this. In the strict sense of the word, karakats are partly related to snowmobiles, since they are able to move on any surface from marshy swamps to hard ground and snow, and even know how to swim. However, it is in winter that these devices can be found most often.
Karakat on the aggregates and the frame of the motorcycle Izh Planet-5 - a classic of the genre
The design of such machines is often based on motorcycle engine from Izh, Minsk or Voskhod, and now the craftsmen are also installing Chinese units. The layout can be three- or four-wheeled. If the three-wheeled version is most often a modified motorcycle, then four wheels already required the manufacture of an independent frame.
The main advantages are simplicity and low cost of manufacturing in garage conditions. This is the reason for the popularity of pookers before today. However, this type of snow machines also has a lot of disadvantages: the inability to drive in deep snow, low speed, poor handling, invincible "tenderness" of wheels made from the chambers of trucks and tractors. Naturally, there can be no question of any entertaining use of such machines: the maximum that they are capable of is to move a body or two in space. Slow and boring.
Motodog is man's best friend
Once upon a time, a motorcycle in the USSR was a very common transport, which primarily led to the appearance a large number caracats. However, now finding an old but serviceable motorcycle in the garage is still a task, and not everyone has time for self-fighting, and the need for a cheap and compact snow vehicle has not gone away. It’s not at all sweet for the same fishermen to stomp on the ice 5-10 kilometers to a cool place, but buying a snowmobile for this is also not an option. Therefore, on this moment the most compact, simple and cheap way to move yourself and a small load in shallow snow is a motorized towing vehicle or a motorized dog.
The simplest frame, a caterpillar (most often from Buran) on rollers without any suspension and a motor for power equipment - the same as those used in gas generators and motor pumps. The picture is complemented by a plastic sled on a rigid hitch - that's the whole recipe.
Motorcycle dogs can vary in size and power, have a CVT or (more often) not have one, just like headlights and seats are all options. But the average design is placed in the trunk of a station wagon, which, no doubt, raises its functionality to the skies.
Naturally, it is also impossible to talk about the recreational use of such sleds. Zero comfort, speed - a little faster than a pedestrian, maneuverability - at the level rail car. The slogan “but not on foot” is the best fit for this transport. Considering that “walking” often takes place on ice and for many kilometers, it sounds especially relevant.
Micro snowmobiles
For those who do not want to ride a "trough with a motor", modern industry, and both ours and the Chinese offer more high level equipment - microsnowmobiles. In terms of layout, these are almost real snowmobiles, except that they are very small. Often, the devices have a collapsible design and are also able to fit in the trunk of a large station wagon or minivan.
Microsnowmobile Rybinka produced by Russian Mechanics. Our response to the Chinese
Such a technique can already be called “real” and is suitable not only for moving yourself and your fishing box from the road to the hole, but can also take part in rides around the dacha.
Of course, there is no need to talk about comfort, dynamics or cross-country ability here, but this is already a completely full-fledged snowmobile.
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Chinese response to Russian snow: Irbis Dingo
Children's snowmobiles
Someone will say: “Ha, yes, this is a technique for children,” and they will be only partly right. Of course, 125-150cc microsnowmobiles are similar to children's, but still primarily designed for adult riders. But those who want to introduce their child to the world of snowmobiles should pay attention to special children's models. There are not so many of them: in the world, children's "snowballs" are produced by only a few companies. Among them are Yamaha, Arctic Cat and Russian Mechanics, and all three models are almost identical in terms of performance characteristics.
Domestic RM "Taiga Lynx" - 196 "cubes", 6.5 hp, 75 kg
Children's cars are full-fledged devices, with ergonomics and kinematics of "adult" cars, but on a children's scale. Some young snowmobilers get behind the wheel of such machines at the age of five or six and, along with adult riders, cut snow on the “wrong foot” and drive through powder, albeit not quickly. For safety reasons, the speed of such machines is limited.
Yamaha SRX120 - Japanese version of the "first snowmobile"
fat men
At the opposite "pole" of personal snowmobile equipment are "mastodons" - large snowmobiles. There are very few of them in the world - the limited scope of their use affects. Nevertheless, there is a demand for such machines - there is also a supply. More recently, BRP has attempted to bring a snowmobile to market " superior comfort- Ski-Doo Elite, twice. The first attempt took place in the early 80s of the last century.
First generation Ski-Doo Elite
The second incarnation is in 2004. The car was distinguished by a non-standard layout: two tracks and two skis, a side-by-side seating for the driver and passenger, and "car" controls. Now the "experiment" is curtailed. At external pluses like comfort in the "salon" and softness of the ride, the car turned out to be rather ill-adapted to life outside the prepared tracks. It is easier to bury a heavy and clumsy car in the snow, but to rescue it from snow captivity- seven sweats will do. Yes, and in terms of fun and drive, such a “kibitka” is noticeably inferior to the usual “snowball”.
The second generation of the car saw the light in 2004, but almost immediately went down in history.
There is, however, also promising developments» domestic manufacturers all-terrain vehicles - NPO "Transport". Among the usual caterpillar conveyors there is a car called TTM-Berkut, built on the units of the Oka car, and its second iteration with a more presentable design, which was introduced in 2013. However, the “Russian way”, as you know, is different from the ways of the rest of the world, and they will have to understand that such machines are not very viable and practical.
TTM-Berkut - a domestic attempt to make a snowmobile out of a snowmobile
Alpina Sherpa remains the only production vehicle of this "square" layout with two tracks and two skis. The snowmobile also has two tracks and two steerable skis, is equipped with an engine from Peugeot car 206 with a volume of 1.6 liters and a power of 115 hp. The Sherpa is capable of transporting up to five people on its own, and besides, it has a trailer in its “staffing list” that can accommodate six more. By the way, a snowmobile can pull more than one sled.
our educational program and have not yet changed their minds about fighting the elements, then, perhaps, you can hit the road. The main thing to remember is that when driving on a snowy mass, it is not recommended to allow strong wheel slip. Firstly, we have just partially deflated tires and aggressive driving can lead to their disassembly. Secondly, with the unceremonious handling of the accelerator pedal, the risk of quickly and efficiently digging in is extremely high. We do not need to dig snow, but roll it - therefore it is better to adhere to the principle of “one step forward, two steps back”, especially if the car is moving with noticeable resistance. We drove a little and as soon as we felt that the wheels were starting to slip more than usual, and the car was moving not forward, but down, we immediately stopped moving. Turn on reverse gear and again we “tread” the track, but already back. Then forward again - and so on, until we overcome a noticeable area.
classical automatic transmission gears in these cases is more convenient than the manual gearbox - it is easier to ensure the moment of starting off without slipping. On the “mechanics” in this case, it’s a little harder, but it’s easier to use the buildup method and it’s more convenient to coast: after a little acceleration in front of a snowdrift, we squeeze the clutch pedal, and the car makes its way due to its inertia (so less likely to burrow). It happens that a car can move comfortably on virgin soil at a constant low speed and without the need to reverse every time, but even here you need to be on the alert all the time in order to stop in time. Still, it's better to drive slowly than to dig for a long time.
Sometimes virgin lands can be overcome at a very high speed - that is, on the move. This is relevant in several cases: for example, you need to "fly" a short and deep snowy area; when the snow is soft enough and the ground hard; there is considerable self-confidence, and a suitable tug has been prepared nearby, just in case. However, there may be underwater, or rather, snowy, stones: at high speed there is a risk of flying into something really heavy and bending the suspension, steering elements, or even worse, breaking through the engine or gearbox pan. Also, do not forget about the type of car drive: it is clear that four-wheel drive in this case is preferable. But if you managed to end up in the field on rear wheel drive car, you need to load the rear axle if possible (it doesn’t matter with things or people). So a little weight distribution of the car will become more correct (remember what a rogue the legendary "Zaporozhets" was!). If the car is front- or all-wheel drive, then at the moment when it is moving with difficulty, you need to turn the steering wheel more often at small angles - this way the tire has additional grip.
Treasury to help
To overcome off-road, even in the standard equipment of your car, you can find a lot of useful things. So, for example, instead of snow chains, which seriously improve the car's patency on almost any off-road, you can use car cable(if the cable is of the tape type, then it must be twisted in such a way that it becomes rounder and thicker) or ordinary ropes. To do this, you can use both a one-piece cable and short pieces that need to be wrapped around the tire, passing through the holes in the disk. The main thing is to tie it very tightly and make sure that the matter does not cling to the suspension and brake elements. With similar makeshift gadgets car, even summer tires It can even go through very deep snow. But with slipping, you need to be even more delicate here: you can dig oh so deep.
Arrived
But even if you still managed to put your favorite car on the bottom, do not despair - there are no hopeless situations! If you followed the previous advice and took your foot off the accelerator in time, preventing the car from approaching the center of the earth, then the situation is most likely harmless. Therefore, we pick up a shovel or any other suitable item (for example, a book, tablet or laptop) and begin to dig out the car. If the car is paved, then the matter is simpler - most likely you will only have to dig out the space under the bridges. If a car with independent suspension, then it will most likely be necessary to free all the space in contact with snow under the bottom and near the wheels. Next, we try to carefully, without slipping, get out in reverse.
Does not exceed? Digging even deeper? Then we take out a jack from the trunk (it’s definitely supposed to be with us!) And raise the deepest part of the car. If the site is flat, then sometimes such a trick can work: we make sure that the car stands on a jack without a “handbrake” and does not fall, after which we push it, for example, back. The main thing is to make sure that the jack does not harm the integrity of the car, and the car does not roll back into the pit. But usually this method is difficult to implement, so you need to put something under the posted wheel. Everything will do: boards, branches, unnecessary things ...
And the professionals of this business, that is, jeepers, even came up with special devices- Sand tracks of various designs. But even if there are no solid objects at hand, you can try to compact the snow under the hung wheel and put it on it. rubber mat or a thick blanket that will not let the wheel fall through.
Skibob
In fact, this is a bicycle with skis instead of wheels. Now it is so popular that there is even a World Skibob Championship. The concept of this vehicle was developed back in 1949, but the skibob hit the world market about 10 years ago. For turns, the rider uses two short skis attached to the boots.
Ripsaw EV2
Initially, this colossus was designed for the military as fast tank With high traffic. Later, Ripsaw EV2 became available to anyone who is ready to part with a large sum of money. The almost four-ton car is powered by a 6.6-liter diesel engine. The Ripsaw EV2 is capable of climbing 75° slopes, its maximum speed- 104 km / h, regardless of the surface.
TH!NK Frost
TH!NK Frost was designed by a student for a Norwegian electric car company. Its body resembles a cracked glacier, triangular tracks replace the wheels. Torque from the electric motor is transmitted to all four axles. Getting stuck in the snow on such a car is unrealistic, unless the battery runs out.
mountain horse
This whale (ski in front, caterpillar drive rear) turns a normal motorcycle into a snow bike, allowing riders to race down slopes at speeds up to 100 km/h. This bike is much easier to maneuver than a snowmobile. In five years of sales, Timbersled has found thousands of fans and even created the new kind sports.
snowbird 6
Propeller-driven vehicles were first developed in the 1960s by the Russian Space Agency to deliver astronauts to civilization if they landed in the snows of Siberia. Specifically, Snowbird 6 was created to cross the Bering Sea. During this trip, which took place in 2002, he had to swim in the water, climb icebergs and drive through the snow. And all this at an average temperature of -40 ºC.
snow crawler
Snow Crawler is the evolution of snowmobiles. He has a cabin Electrical engine, and the device itself looks like James Bond should move on it. So far, this is just a concept, but it simply must appear in mass production.
snow glider
The car was designed by father and son Zahradka. Despite its uncomplicated appearance, the Snow Glider can reach speeds of up to 120 km/h. The developers are trying to introduce their snowmobiles into skijoring, a winter sport in which a skier rides behind dogs, a horse, or something motorized like a snowmobile, pulling him.
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