Outwardly, it is easy to distinguish it from its predecessor by a different design of the front end, other turn signals and parking lights. But the main family features have been preserved - "ears" - air intakes and stylish round lanterns. True, the air intakes of the 968 start in the area of the rear axle, while the 966 had longer ones and started in line with the rear arch. The decorative whalebone grille disappeared from the front end, which gave way to a decorative chrome element.
No matter what anyone says, but from the point of view of design, the Zaporozhets came out very nice and harmonious. Many believe that its appearance was completely "licked" from the 1961 NSU Prinz. However, this is not the case - the first running prototypes appeared simultaneously with NSU - in the same 1961. But there is no doubt that the creators of both cars were inspired by the American Chevrolet Corvair.
Salon of Zaporozhets is quite ascetic. In the combination of a minimum of instruments - a speedometer and a fuel gauge. The arrow of the latter, when moving, rushes about like the tail of a loving dog, and it is difficult to understand the true level of gasoline.
Salon is not only simple, but also cramped. It is not easy to get to the rear sofa through a folding chair and a narrow door. Yes, it's not very comfortable to sit there.
The driver is reminded of himself by a specific layout. The front arches protrude strongly into the cabin, which is why the pedal assembly is noticeably shifted to the right relative to the steering column. The choke lever is located between the front seats, and the heater control is to the right of the steering column. But the gear lever is located right at hand.
The rear-engined layout resulted in the trunk being at the front. Moreover, this is even mentioned in the native instruction manual. So Zaporozhets has a "front trunk and rear hood." The luggage compartment is quite small. The already small volume is eaten up by a spare wheel, a battery and a gasoline stove.
Another task for an unprepared person can be refueling at a gas station. After all, the neck of the fuel tank cannot be found outside - it hid under the hood. And the hood opening handle is located on the central pillar.
Warm heart
The MeMZ-968 air-cooled engine with a volume of 1.2 liters develops 41 hp. at 4200 rpm. It is very simple and maintainable, and it is so light that two people are enough to dismantle it.
The power system used a K-126 carburetor and an inertial air filter that did not require replaceable filter elements. Unfortunately, the Melitopol "air vent" was not particularly reliable. These engines rarely nursed 100 thousand km - more often half as much. The engine suffered from overheating, as did the fuel pump, which in some situations could simply stop pumping fuel. But what you definitely can’t refuse this motor is in. Fuel consumption was kept around 6 l/100 km at 80 km/h. It's a paradox, but the next iteration of the Zaporozhets - 968M, which received the nickname "soap dish" among the people, spent much more - about 10 liters per hundred at the same 80 km / h.
There are no dynamics to speak of. In theory, Zaporozhets reaches 100 km / h in 32 seconds. And the maximum speed is 118 km / h. But in practice, by 80 km / h, any acceleration is already stopped. And there is no desire to go faster on the 968th.
Soft move
The suspension is completely independent - front torsion bar, rear spring. And the ZAZ 968A also has a perfectly flat bottom and a large ground clearance of 200 mm. All this endowed the Zaporozhets with decent cross-country ability, which the rest of the cars of the USSR would envy.
The wheels of Zaporozhets are discless, and the hubs are brake drums. And the brakes are one of the weak points. The slowdown is sluggish, the drive is uninformative even by the standards of the 70s. Therefore, it is better to slow down on the 968th in advance. But he has a very good smoothness. What can not be said about handling: with an increase in speed, the car begins to wag, and after 80 km / h it is frankly scary to drive it.
But at the same time, Zaporozhets has a very light steering wheel, which can be turned without any extra effort even while standing still. In addition, the front wheels turn at a very large angle. And this, together with small dimensions, gives the “eared” excellent maneuverability.
The car is very noisy. And everything is noisy - the wind is walking in the doors and vents. The engine rumbles recognizably. The transmission whines. And after 70 km / h, a very characteristic and incredibly funny whistle of those very “ears” is added. The noise level is another reason why it makes no sense to go faster than 80 km/h.
Despite all his shortcomings, Zaporozhets was loved. For his naive look. For incredible simplicity and maintainability. And for a small cost - the car at the time of its appearance cost only 3,500 rubles. For comparison, it cost 5500, and the VAZ "three rubles" - all 7500. Therefore, he often became the first car in families who could not afford more. And Zaporozhets performed its transport function successfully, regardless of the quality of the roads.
Photo: Kristina Traktirova
Front suspension - independent type, lever-torsion, pivotless with additional springs mounted on telescopic hydraulic shock absorbers. The main elastic suspension elements are two torsion bars.
The suspension is assembled on an axle consisting of two steel pipes connected by brackets. A torsion bar is installed in each suspension tube. The levers are connected to the torsion bars with special bolts. On each side, steering knuckles are connected to the suspension arms by ball joints.
The lower ends of the shock absorbers are attached to the upper suspension arms. The upper ends of the shock absorbers are fixed to the mudguards of the body. The front suspension is attached to the body with six bolts. Wheel travel up and down is limited by rubber buffers.
Rice. 100. Front suspension: 1, 20, 31, 39 - washers; 2, 10, 30 - bolts; 3 - pillows; 4 - cap; 5, 9, 14, 19, 38 - nuts; 6 - clip; 7 - shock absorber; 8 - wheel; 11 - decorative cap; 12 - hub; 13 - nut cap; 15 - cotter pin; 16 - thrust washer; 17 - brake shield; 18 - protective washer; 21 - lower arm; 22 - spring: 23 - lever bushing; 24 - torsion bar; 25 - torsion bar bushing; 26 - torsion bar mounting bolt; 27, 28 - lock nuts; 29 - adjusting bolt; 32 - front axle; 33 - clamp; 34 - sealing cuff; 35 - sleeve; 36 - upper arm; 37 - cotter pin; 40 - coupling bolt; 41 - knuckle; 42 - rubber buffer.
REPAIR OF HALF AXLES
Removal and installation of semiaxes. To remove the axle shaft, it is necessary to unscrew the bolts securing the differential protective cover to the final drive housing, then unscrew the bolts securing the axle shaft to the universal joint yoke, move the axle shaft to the side and remove it together with the cover. When disconnecting the axle shaft only from the universal joint yoke, immediately slide the axle shaft into the differential and tie it to the suspension arm, otherwise the crackers may come out of the grooves of the side gears, which will lead to the crackers falling off the pin, breaking the differential or gearbox housing.
It is recommended to install the axle shafts in the following sequence: insert the axle shaft with crackers into the grooves of the differential side gear; bring the axle shaft yoke to the cardan yoke and tighten the four bolts with spring washers. The tightening torque of the bolts is 5.5 ... 6.0 kgf-m. Next, install the cover of the cover on the protective cover of the differential and tighten the nuts with washers.
Before installing the axle shaft, it is necessary to make sure that the retaining ring of the main gear driven gear adjusting nut is installed between the cover and the differential bearing housing, and also make sure that the right axle shaft is installed on the right side, the left one on the left side.
Disassembly of the axle shaft and cardan joint. It is recommended to disassemble the axle shaft in the following sequence:
using a hammer and a beard, knock out the locking pin 14 (see Fig. 98) of the axle shaft flange. The pin should be knocked out from the side opposite to the punched part of the pin hole. Then, holding the axle shaft with your hand, with light blows of the hammer on the flange 13, disconnect the flange from the axle shaft;
remove the dirt deflector 12 and the protective cover of the differential 8 from the semi-axis, remove the body 9 of the semi-axis cuff from the cover and press the cuff 7 out of it.
To disassemble the universal joint, it is necessary to remove the retaining rings 3 of the universal joint bearings with a screwdriver or a thin beard, press out two opposite needle bearings: one out and the other inside the fork. Bearings should be pressed out on a manual press. Remove the bearing that has been pressed out, and press the bearing pressed in again to the outside. The same operation should be performed with the second pair of bearings.
Bearings can be pressed out in another way. Having fixed the driven fork of the cardan joint in a vise, with light blows of a non-ferrous metal hammer on the drive fork, press out one bearing, then, turning the driven fork 180 °, press out the second, etc.
The disassembled parts of the axle shaft are thoroughly washed and checked. Worn or damaged parts are replaced with new ones.
Assembling the cardan joint and axle shaft. Before assembling the universal joint, the needle bearings and the channels in the cross are filled with gear oil. When assembling, the cross is inserted into the forks so that the grease fitting of the cross is directed towards the recess on the drive fork (for passage with a syringe). Cups with bearings can be pressed alternately with light blows of a non-ferrous hammer or with a press.
At the assembled cardan joint, the fork should freely deviate from the hand in any direction from the middle position.
When assembling the axle shaft, carefully inspect the integrity of the protective cover and the condition of the rubber cuff. In case of loss of rubber elasticity or damage to the working surfaces of the cuff, it should be replaced with a new one.
To replace a damaged cuff, it is necessary to separate the mating points of the cuff body from the cover on the cover from the side of the hub part with a screwdriver, then, using a wooden mandrel tightly fitted to the diameter of the body, remove the body with the cuff, remove the worn cuff from the body and press in a new one. The body with the cuff is installed in the case in reverse order.
From the II quarter of 1975, the case was glued to the cover with IPK-41 glue. To remove the glued case from the case, it is necessary to unscrew the case and lower the hub part of the case with the case into a vessel with acetone to a depth of 20 mm and hold it for 1.5 hours, after which, as described above, remove the case from the case and remove the remains of the old glue.
In order to avoid damage to the cuff 3 (Fig. 99), when putting on the protective cover 2, it is necessary to put a mandrel 1 on the splined end of the axle shaft 5. After pressing the locking pin, punch the hole on the fork.
When assembling the axle shaft (see Fig. 98), the mud deflector 12 should be installed at a distance of 224 mm from the flange, while the hub part of the dirt deflector should tightly wrap around the axle shaft. If the mud deflector moves freely on the axle shaft (this may occur due to the aging of the rubber), it should be tightly tightened with a clamp along the surface “b”.
Caring for the axle shafts consists in lubricating the cardan joints every 20,000 km with transmission grease, as well as tightening the bolts securing the cardan joints to the axle shaft flanges. Tightening torque 5.5 ... 6.0 kgf-m.
DESIGN FEATURES OF HALF AXLES
The vehicle is equipped with semi-axes of a fully unloaded type. At one end they slide in the grooves of the side gears of the differential, and at the other end they are connected to the rear wheel hubs through cardan joints. The sliding device of the axle shaft (Fig. 98) is made in the form of a finger pressed into the head of the axle shaft and two crackers put on the finger.
The cardan joint is connected to the semi-axis by a spline connection and is locked with a pin 14. The cardan joint consists of two forks 17 and 18, in the hole of the lugs of which the housings of the needle bearings of the crosses are pressed. The housings on the inside of the lugs are secured with spring retaining rings. Each of the four bearings of the cardan joint contains 20 needles with a diameter of 3 mm. The surfaces of the trunnions, crosspieces and bodies at the point of needle seating are cemented and hardened.
Rice. 98. Axle assembly: 1 - cross, 2 - bearing, 3 - retaining ring; 4, 7 - cuffs; 5 - cap: 6 - grease fitting; 8 - protective cover; 9 - cuff body; 10 - axle shaft; 11 - finger; 12 - mud deflector; 13 - flange; 14 - pin; 15 - bolt; 16 - washer; 17 - leading fork; 18 - driven fork; a - groove (only on the left body); b - surface for fastening.
To retain grease and protect the bearings from dirt, stamped reflectors are pressed onto the protrusions of the trunnions of the crosses, and rubber self-clamping cuffs are inserted into the bearing cages.
To protect the main gear and the sliding joint of the axle shaft from dust, as well as from leakage of grease from the crankcase, a protective rubber cover is installed on the axle shaft, inside which the cuff body and self-clamping cuff are placed. The cuff bodies have an oil-draining thread: the left body-left, right-right. To distinguish them, a groove is made at the end of the bushing of the left body. To protect the device from dirt, a dirt deflector is installed on the axle shaft at a distance of 224 mm from the flange.
REPAIR AND ADJUSTMENT OF THE GEARBOX CONTROL MECHANISM
Disassembly and assembly. To remove the gearbox control mechanism from the car, you must:
remove the cover 7 (see Fig. 97) with the rubber casing 3, after unscrewing the handle of the lever 1, unscrew the four bolts 27 securing the housing 28, move the mechanism housing forward as far as possible
To disassemble the gearbox control mechanism, unscrew the two bolts 29, remove the spring 25 of the slider and the ring 24, remove the slider 21 from the support, remove the three bronze inserts 20, and then the rubber bushing 19, squeezing it to the center of the hole.
This assembly is assembled and installed on the car in reverse order. Worn parts are replaced with new ones. Before assembly, the friction surfaces of the slider 21 of cups 6, 22 and liners 20 are lubricated with graphite grease.
Mechanism adjustment. The gearbox control mechanism is adjusted at the factory during assembly, however, during the operation of the vehicle, it may be necessary to remove and then adjust the mechanism.
For the correct installation of the mechanism, it is necessary (see Fig. 97): set the slider 13 of the gearbox to the neutral position, and the mechanism body into the floor tunnel and connect the slider 21 of the lever and the control shaft 9 with the locking bolt 8,
screw the bolts 27 that fasten the mechanism to the tunnel, but do not tighten them, install the dust cover 18 in the hole of the tunnel plug and screw the clutch 16 into the control shaft 9 up to a size of 13 mm between the end of the shaft and the clutch plane;
attach the second end of the clutch to the slider 13 of the gearbox, tighten the nut 15 to failure, set the gearshift lever 1 to the position in which reverse gear is engaged, but do not engage it;
turn the slider 13 of the gearbox with the clutch 16 to the position to engage the reverse gear (on the side of the control shaft, the slider should be turned counterclockwise) and in this position, holding the shaft with a wrench, tighten the locknut 11;
check the position of the shift lever. The lever in the neutral position must be set at an angle of 90° to the plane of the body floor tunnel. The position of the lever is adjusted by moving the body of the mechanism along the longitudinal grooves of the body and tunnel.
After adjusting the position of the lever, the fastening bolts 27 should be tightened to failure, then check the clarity, ease and completeness of gear engagement (adjust if necessary), reinstall the cover and dustproof rubber casing. Caring for the gear shift mechanism consists in periodically checking the position of the gear lever and tightening the connections. The mechanism is lubricated at the factory during assembly, however, during operation during disassembly, it is recommended to lubricate the rubbing parts with graphite grease.
DESIGN FEATURES OF THE GEARBOX CONTROL MECHANISM
The gearbox is controlled by lever 1 (Fig. 97) on the body floor tunnel. The lower end of the lever is mounted in a stamped housing on a ball bearing. The spherical part of the lever provides a hinged connection with the slider.
Rice. 97. Gearbox control mechanism: 1 - lever; 2 - retaining ring; 3 - casing; 4 - spring; 5 - persistent cup; 6 - ball cup; 7 - cover; 8 - locking bolt; 9 - shaft; 10 - lock washer; 11 - locknut; 12 - special bolt; 13 - gearbox slider; 14 - washer; 15 - nut; 16 - clutch; 17 - floor tunnel cover; 18 - cover; 19 - support sleeve; 20 - insert; 21 - slider; 22 - guide cup; 23 - damping ring; 24 - ring; 25 - spring; 26 - bracket; 27 - mechanism fastening bolt; 28 - body; 29 - cup mounting bolt; 30 - floor tunnel.
The body 28 of the mechanism is attached to the tunnel with four bolts 27 and is closed with a cover 7 with a rubber casing 3. The slider rod 21 is connected to the control shaft 9 with an adjusting bolt 8. The control shaft 9 is connected to the slider 13 of the gearbox using an elastic rubber coupling 16, which is screwed with a tip into the control shaft 9 and is locked with a nut 11. The second end of the clutch 16 is connected to the slider 13 of the gearbox with a bolt 12.
An indispensable condition for a clear and easy engagement of all gears is the reliable tightening of the locking bolt 8, nut 15, lock nut II, as well as the location of the control lever 1 in the neutral position at an angle of 90 ° to the plane of the body floor tunnel.
GEARBOX AND DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
Work is performed in the reverse order of disassembly. In this case, all working surfaces are lubricated with engine oil, and sealing surfaces and gaskets with UN-25 sealing paste.
When assembling the main gear, the drive gear must be installed relative to the driven gear, taking into account the correction for the mounting distance. In this case, the correct location of the tooth contact patch and its desired shape will be achieved (Fig. 91).
To correctly install the final drive pinion according to the control size, the following operations must be performed (Fig. 92):
press onto the shank of the drive gear 16 of the main gear, which is the driven shaft of the gearbox, tapered thrust bearing 10, install the adjusting shim II and the shim 9 with washer 17, keeping the size 49.9 ... 50 mm; install shims 9 between the inner race of the bearing and the thrust washer;
install the parts shown in fig. 92, and press the driven shaft with the bearing into the housings of the crankcase. Install thrust bearing cover 12 and secure with four bolts 13 (tightening torque 3.2...4.4 kgf-m). Tighten nut 1 of the final drive drive shaft (tightening torque 20...25 kgf-m);
check the control dimension A. To measure the actual dimension B, when assembling the final drive gear, use a control device (Fig. 93). Using the indicator set to dimension B (see Fig. 92), determine the dimension from the end of the drive gear to the axis of the bore for the differential bearing housings. In accordance with the obtained actual size B, select the required number of gaskets II.
Example. If the number “-0.1” is applied on the end of the drive gear, this means that the height of the gear head is 0.1 mm more than its nominal size and the control dimension B must be less than 0.1 mm, i.e. 59.5 -0.1-59.4 mm. If the correction is “+0.1”, the size should be larger, i.e. 59.5 + 0.1-59.6 mm.
In the absence of a control device, the installation distance B can be set and checked according to the size B = 2 mm. To do this, it is necessary to install the gearbox housing, assembled with parts, according to fig. 92 vertically, place a mandrel with a diameter of 40 ... 60 mm and a length of 190 ... 200 mm into the sockets under the differential bearing housings. Using a set of measuring tiles or a feeler gauge, check and, if necessary, set dimension B by performing the operations as described above.
Rice. 92. Installation of the main gear drive gear: 1 - nut of the main drive drive shaft; 2 - folding washer; 3 - rear bearing; 4 - driven gear IV gear; 5 - drive gear of the speedometer drive; 6 - driven gear III gear; 7 - thrust washer of the driven gear of the 2nd gear; 8- spacer bushings of gears; 9, 11 - shims; 10 - front thrust bearing; 12 - bearing cover; 13 - bolt; 14 - control device for selecting the thickness of the shims; 15 - gearbox housing; 16 - main gear drive gear; 17 - thrust washers of gears; Г - the axis of the hole with a diameter of 1150.03 mm.
After checking the control dimension A, the final drive assembly should be continued in the following order (see Fig. 92):
unscrew the nut 1 and bolts 13 of the thrust bearing cover and, tapping lightly with a soft drift, remove the drive gear 16 of the final drive:
check the axial movement of the forward gears on the bushings, which should be 0.258 ... 0.394 mm;
lubricate the needle bearings with grease No. 158 or litol-24 and assemble the driven gears 1 and II of the leading III and IV gears with needle bearings and matched bushings; complete sets consisting (see Fig. 84): of a thrust washer and a drive gear of 7th gear III with a synchronizer ring, a hub of the synchronizer coupling of III and IV gears assembled with clutch 5, springs and crackers, a thrust washer and a drive gear of 4th gear IV with synchronizer ring
from a thrust washer 9 and a driven gear 27 of gear 1 with a synchronizer ring 22, a synchronizer clutch hub assembly with a reverse driven gear 25, spring rings 24 and crackers 23, a thrust washer and a driven gear 21 of gear II with a synchronizer ring. When installing synchronizer rings, make sure that the synchronizer clutch crackers enter the slots of the synchronizer ring;
Rice. 93. Control device for selecting the thickness of shims: 1 - body; 2 - handle; 3 - indicator; 4 - base.
Rice. 94. Mandrel for holding gears: 1 - mandrel, 2 - driven gear of IV gear, 3 - drive gear of the speedometer drive; 4 - driven gear of the third gear.
install the driven gears of III and IV gears and the speedometer drive gear in the box crankcase on the mandrel (Fig. 94). Press (see Fig. 84) onto the intermediate shaft 3 roller bearing 8, install the thrust washer, third gear bushing and needle bearing;
insert a set of drive gears III and IV gears into the crankcase and install the intermediate shaft of the gearbox (Fig. 95); insert a set of gears of 1st and 2nd gears into the crankcase of the box, while inserting gear of 1st gear last;
Slightly shaking the main gear drive gear and adjusting the set, align the splines on the shaft with the splines in the hub and insert the shaft into the inner race of the ball bearing; pushing the mandrel, combine the splines of the shaft with the splines of the gears: driven III and IV gears and the speedometer drive;
press (see Fig. 84) the thrust bearing 29 with the drive gear 15 into the crankcase seat, directing the flat on its thrust shoulder to the bearing seat 12 of the input shaft II. Install cover 31 and fasten it with bolts 42, manually engage III and II gears, tighten nuts 39 of the intermediate and driven shafts. Check the ease of rotation of the gears of the gearbox shafts and lock each nut 39 with folding washers 38 on two faces, insert (see Fig. 85) splined shaft 30 with intermediate gears 33 and 31 of the reverse gear into the crankcase, install washer 27, maintaining the gap between the inner partition gearbox housing and the end of the shaft 0.3 ... 0.5 mm, press in the axis 28 of the splined shaft, directing the groove towards the drive shaft;
insert the fork of 1st and 2nd gears into the groove of the reverse driven gear and the fork of the 3rd and 4th gears into the groove of the 3rd and 4th gear engagement clutch. Install forward shift rods 26 and 23. When installing the rod 23 for switching III and IV gears, pay attention to the installation of the lock 25 of the lower rod and the pusher 24 of the locks;
assemble the rods with forks and tighten the bolts (tightening torque 3.6 ... 5.0 kgf-m). Install (see Fig. 84) the drive shaft 11 with the bearing, put the cover 13 of the rear bearing and tighten its bolts (tightening torque 1.8 ... 2.5 kgf m);
install (see Fig. 85) bracket 8 complete with lever 10 and leash 11 for reverse gear and tighten bolts 9,
install the shift slider with the rod assembly and insert the slider shank into the groove of the 1st and 2nd gear fork rod. Install the lock 22 of the upper rod, the reverse gear rod 19 into the crankcase and the leash 11 on the rod, securing it (tightening torque 3.6 ... 5.0 kgf-m);
install retainer balls 17, springs 16, lubricate gasket 15 with sealing paste, install retainer cover 14 and secure it with nuts 13.
install (see Fig. 87) support washer 13 of the axle gear into the differential housing, gear 3 of the axle shaft, satellites 12 and press in the pin 17 of the satellites;
after pressing in, measure the axial movement of the axle shaft gear with an indicator, which should be from zero to 0.35 mm. The specified movement is regulated by selecting the support washer of the required thickness: put the driven gear 11 of the main gear on the differential housing
transmission, install the support washer 13 and the second gear of the axle shaft in the cover 4 of the differential. Fix the differential cover through one hole with four bolts 9 with spring washers and also measure the axial movement of the second semi-axial gear;
check the turning torque of the side gears, which should be no more than 2 kgf-m. If necessary, disassemble the differential and replace the support washers 13 to achieve the specified run-up and turning force. Install the missing four bolts with spring washers and finally tighten all bolts 9 (tightening torque 7...9 kgf-m);
install the spring rings 16 on the differential pinion pin, press the inner races of the tapered bearings onto the housing and the differential cover, install the differential assembly with the main gear driven gear into the gearbox housing: lubricate the sealing lip and the drive shaft journal with oil, and the connector with sealing paste UN-25, connect the clutch housing to the gearbox housing and tighten the nuts (tightening torque 4.4 ... 6.2 kgf-m);
install the outer races of tapered bearings in the housings 8 of the differential bearings and tighten the adjusting nuts 6. Put on the rubber sealing rings 7 and install the bearing housings in the housings of the crankcase so that their oblique holes are in the upper position;
adjust the clearance in the final drive gears, which should be 0.08 ... 0.22 mm. To do this, it is necessary to tighten the adjusting nut located on the side of the driven gear until a gap of 0.08 ... 01 mm is provided. In this case, unscrew the opposite nut by 1 ... 1.5 turns. It is convenient to check the gap using a control device with an indicator head (Fig. 96). Install the device with the housing on the differential housing, and with its rod 4 through the hole in the gear of the axle shaft, grab the pin of the satellites and tighten the nut 3. Press the stop 5 against the bearing housing so that the mustache of the stop rests against the indicator leg 2. Shaking the handle 1, determine by the movement of the indicator arrow clearance in the main gear teeth. Turn the opposite adjusting nut until a gap of 0.12 ... 0.17 mm is obtained on the same tooth. In this case, the rotation of the differential must be free, the change in the gap during the transition from one tooth to another is smooth, the difference in the side clearance for two teeth located side by side should not be more than 0.05 mm. The total change in the gap should not exceed 0.08 mm;
after adjusting the side clearance, put the stoppers 2 (see Fig. 87) of the adjusting nuts. It is allowed to slightly tighten the nut until the mustache of the stopper and the slot coincide. In the absence of a device, the clearance in the engagement of the main gear can be checked with reliable accuracy by the angle of rotation of the nut 39 (see Fig. 84) of the driven shaft. The angle of rotation of the nut, equal to 14 "... 37", approximately corresponds to the clearance in engagement of 0.08 ... 0.22 mm;
put the switching rods in the neutral position, lubricate the place of the crankcase connector and the rear cover with UN-25 sealing paste, install the gasket, insert the slider rod into the hole in the rear cover and install the rear cover;
check the ease and clarity of gear shifting. Lubricate the top cover gasket with UN-25 sealing paste on both sides and install the top cover.
CHECKING THE CONDITION OF GEARBOX AND DIFFERENTIAL PARTS
After dismantling the gearbox and differential, the parts must be washed and checked for their condition. The wear of the splines of the III and IV gear clutches, the ends of the internal splines of the reverse driven gear, as well as the end wear of the reverse gear cannot be measured, therefore the suitability of these parts is determined by external inspection.
Holes are checked in the gearbox housing: for bearings, differential bearing housings, gear shift rods. The sealing surfaces of the crankcase must not have nicks or scratches. Check the crankcase for cracks. If cracks are found, the crankcase must be welded or replaced.
The sealing surface of the gearbox rear cover must not have nicks, scratches or cracks. If cracks are found, weld or replace the cover. The gap between the bushing hole and the slider rod should not exceed 0.30 mm. With a larger gap, the cover can be repaired by pressing in a new bushing, followed by reaming to the nominal size.
The bearings should rotate smoothly and silently. On the treadmills of the inner and outer cages on the balls and rollers, there should be no metal chipping. If metal spalling is found on the raceways of the inner or outer races, on balls or rollers, the bearings are replaced. The maximum allowable radial play of the bearings is 0.05 mm, the axial play of the bearing 697306KU is not allowed.
Synchronizer locking rings must fit tightly on the conical surfaces of the gears. To check the fit of the ring on the cone of the gear crown, several marks are applied with a soft pencil along the generatrix of the cone, placing them evenly around the circumference. Then put a blocking ring on the conical surface and, pressing it with your hand, turn it several times. If after this the marks are worn out by at least 0.6 lengths, the fit of the ring can be considered good enough.
The gap between the end of each blocking ring, put on the conical surface, and the corresponding gear synchronizer ring for new rings should be 1.4 ... 1.95 mm, and for rings that were in use, at least 0.6 mm. If the gap is smaller, then the conical surface of the blocking ring is worn. When the ring is worn, the thread becomes dull and the ring does not remove oil well from the conical surface of the gear.
As a result, the friction between the ring and the conical surface of the gear will not be enough to effectively equalize the angular speeds of the shafts. The new blocking ring has a thread width at the top equal to 0.408...0.15 mm. An increase in width of more than 0.3 mm is not allowed.
Bushings of gears of 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears on the working surfaces must not have annular marks, nicks and traces of brinelling (indentation from the rollers). In the presence of one of the indicated damages, the sleeve is replaced.
Differential parts must not have burrs, snags or nicks. Existing nicks and small tacks need to be cleaned. In case of significant damage, the parts cannot be repaired.
The teeth of the gears of the gearbox and final drive must not have chipping and metal enveloping on the surface. Gears are replaced if these damages occupy 15% of the tooth surface on at least two gear teeth.
The contacts of the splines of the 3rd and 4th gear shift clutch and the internal splines of the reverse driven gear with the corresponding teeth of the gear synchronizer rims must not go beyond the edges of the teeth. Otherwise, replace one of the mating parts or both parts.
If there are nicks and chips on the ends of the splines of the III and IV gear shift clutch and the reverse driven gear, the clutch and gear should be replaced.
The locks of the lower and upper rods and the pusher of the locks of the blocking device to prevent the inclusion of two gears at once should not have wear along the length of more than 0.1 mm.
The cuff of the driven shaft, the cover of the slider, the sealing rings under the speedometer drive and under the differential bearing housings must be replaced in case of loss of elasticity or destruction.
REPAIR OF THE TRANSMISSION AND THE MAIN DRIVE WITH DIFFERENTIAL
External signs that determine the need to check the gearbox, final drive and differential are increased noise when the car is moving, poor engagement, and self-deactivation of gears. It should also be borne in mind that the wear of the synchronizer rings manifests itself gradually and does not lead to the failure of the gearbox in operation, but nevertheless leads to wear of more critical parts, which include the synchronizer ring of gears, clutches, etc. Therefore, the timely replacement of worn rings Synchronizer contributes to the extension of the overall life of the gearbox and prevents later more labor-intensive and costly work.
When identifying faults, even partial disassembly should be avoided whenever possible. But if disassembly is unavoidable, then when assembling the gearbox, it is necessary to ensure that its main parts, if not replaced, are installed in their places and in the positions in which these parts were before disassembly.
Disassembly of the gearbox and differential. During disassembly and subsequent assembly, it is necessary to have a device for fixing the gearbox, a mandrel to hold the gears, a differential bearing puller, socket wrenches with a set of heads 10, 12, 13 mm, a torque wrench with a head 17 and 36 mm, combination pliers, a screwdriver, a drift, reverse shaft spline shaft puller, control devices for selecting the thickness of shims and checking the clearance in the main pair, a device for pressing out the bearing of the main pair.
It is recommended to disassemble the gearbox and differential of the car in the following sequence of cycles.
For silent and reliable operation of the main gear, the driving and driven gears are selected in pairs in a set. After selection, their serial number is written on the gears with an electrograph and, in addition, at the end of the drive gear, an adjustment for the mounting distance A \u003d 87 mm ± 0.04 mm. The final drive gears are replaced only as a complete set.
install the gearbox on the fixture (Fig. 88), unscrew the nuts (see Fig. 84) and, tapping on the lugs, remove the back cover, and then the top cover; unscrew (see Fig. 87) nuts 15 for fastening housings 8 of differential bearings and, using a drift, press out differential bearing housings (in this case, it is recommended to loosen the nuts for fastening the clutch housing);
Loosen the clutch housing fastening nuts, remove the clutch housing with light tapping and remove the differential assembly. If necessary, remove the clutch release mechanism:
remove (see Fig. 85) the cover 14 of the spring retainers 16 and balls 17;
unscrew the bolt 36 fastening the leash of the reverse gear lever and, turning slightly, remove the reverse gear shift rod 19 from the crankcase;
remove the bracket 8 of the reversing mechanism with the leash and fork assembly, the gearshift slider 20 with the stem assembly, after which the slider from the stem 21, the retaining ring 35 from the axis of the bracket and the lever leash with the fork assembly:
bend (see Fig. 84) the folding washers 38 on the intermediate 3 and driven 15 shafts, engage II gear and manually engage the reverse gears, unscrew the nuts of the intermediate and driven shafts;
remove the cover 13 of the rear bearing of the transmission input shaft. By lightly tapping with a soft drift through the hole in the intermediate shaft, press out the drive shaft II of the gearbox with the bearing. If necessary, remove the circlip 14 from the drive shaft and press the bearing 12 of the drive shaft. Remove the thrust ring from the bearing;
unscrew the bolt of the fork of the III and IV gears, remove the shift rod and the fork, then unscrew the bolt of the fork of the 1st and 11th gears, remove the shift rod, the fork and the locks of the rods;
using a puller (Fig. 89), press the spline shaft axis out of the box housing, remove the spline shaft with reverse intermediate gears;
remove the cover 31 (see Fig. 84) of the front bearing and, lightly tapping with a soft drift towards the differential, remove the final drive gear of the 1st and 2nd gears, the hub and the reverse driven gear from the gearbox housing. Place gear bushings, needle bearings and synchronizer rings on gears. Swapping them is not recommended;
if necessary, press the tapered thrust bearing off the output shaft. Knock out intermediate shaft 3 with a soft metal drift from the side of the rear cover, remove gears 7 and 4, respectively, III and IV gears, hub and clutch 5;
press the rear intermediate shaft bearing out of the box crankcase, remove the retaining ring from the bearing, remove the driven gears of III and IV gears and the drive gear of the speedometer gearbox, remove the speedometer drive gearbox and press the remaining bearings out of the crankcase sockets. Install the differential housing assembly in a vise and, using a puller,
Rice. 89. Puller of the splined shaft axis: 1 - splined shaft axis (the shaft is conventionally rotated by 90°); 2 - gearbox housing; 3 - puller.
remove the inner races of the tapered bearings. To do this, turning the screw 4 counterclockwise with the knob 5, raise the stop 1 so that the tabs 2 go under the bearing housing into two recesses. Then, turning the bushings 3 by the handwheel clockwise, bring the legs 2 together and, turning the knob 5, remove the inner race of the bearing;
unscrew (see Fig. 87) bolts 9 and lightly tap to remove the driven gear 11 of the final drive, cover 4 of the differential, gear 3 of the axle shaft and the adjusting washer;
remove the spring rings 16 from the pin of the pinion gears and press out the pin 17 of the pinion gears, take out the gears of the pinion gears 12, the second gear of the axle shaft and the support washer of the gear of the axle shaft;
unscrew the adjusting nuts 6 from the differential bearing housings and press out the outer races of the tapered bearings.
MAIN GEAR
It is possible to remove the axle shafts only by draining the oil from the final drive housing, since the oil level is above the edge of the hole closed by the axle shaft cover. Then, having removed the cover and disconnected the flange from the universal joint, we take out the axle shaft from the axle gear. In this case, it is necessary to rotate the axle shaft in such a way that her the finger took a horizontal position to prevent the crackers from falling.
The axle shaft must be installed in its horizontal position - otherwise the cover will warp, and its shoulder will not evenly fall into place. If it is not possible to use a flyover or a pit, you can raise one side of the car, remove the wheel, place some kind of support under the brake drum and lower the car to a position where the axle shaft fixed at the ends is parallel to the bottom of the car.
We have repeatedly made sure that when installing the cover there is no need to rush. After all, if a leak is detected, then the cover will have to be corrected with the resulting from him oil.
A leak may occur due to insufficient tightness of the cover, which presses the collar of the cover. Sometimes it is enough just to tighten three nuts, but if the cover has reached the stop, and there is no normal pressure, it is necessary to place a ring with an outer diameter of 128 under the cover of the appropriate thickness mm and internal 108 mm or lay a ring of wire in insulation "diameter 1.5-2 mm.
Damaged cases should be replaced with new ones. If they don't exist, That you can repair old ones with patches or a plastic bag enclosed in a case.
The boot is changed, according to the instruction manual, after removing the flange from the axle shaft. However, it is not always possible to remove it with “light blows of a hammer”. Most often, this will require pouring kerosene into the joint of the flange with the axle shaft and soak for several hours. If this does not help, you need to heat the flange with a blowtorch.
There is another way to remove the cover. Place the shaft vertically, step on the flange with your feet and pull the cover up by the flanges. When the cover is released from the stuffing box housing, it will easily pass through the pins of the axle shaft. Naturally, if the stuffing box housing is glued (in cars produced after the second quarter of 1975), the glue must first be dissolved in acetone.
However, there are cases when the spline connection of the axle shaft with the flange is loosened. This is manifested in knocks when the car is moving. Motorists use several methods to restore the immobility of the connection. The most effective is to glue the joint with epoxy glue, adding steel filings to it. Glue is applied to the surface of both parts and after assembly is kept for a day. When disassembling the connection
requires the use of a blowtorch.
The dirt deflector, which began to be installed on Zaporozhets since the beginning of 1982, protects the seal of the cover very effectively. We highly recommend installing it on the axle shaft of older cars. If it is possible to purchase a mud deflector (part number 968M-2403094), it is installed on the axle shaft so that the distance from the end of the axle shaft (from the side of the finger) to the outer edge of the mud deflector is the value recommended by the factory 199 + - 2 mm.
If it was not possible to purchase a regular dirt deflector, you can take the advice of experienced people and buy a plunger (a rubber cap used to clean drains in sinks and bathtubs) at a hardware store. A hole is made in the plunger to put it on the axle shaft with an interference fit. The edges of the cup of the plunger should overlap the protruding part of the protective cover of the axle shafts.
Dismantling and assembling the cardan joint in stationary conditions is not very difficult. We have convinced ourselves that this work can also be carried out successfully in the field (perhaps the hopelessness of the situation is pushing us here).
We stopped on a lost country road after it became unbearable to listen to knocks in the area of \u200b\u200bthe rear wheels. The reason was quickly discovered: with the wheel standing, the axle shaft flange rotated 90 degrees. Having removed the cardan joint, they found that the bearing housing had crumbled and all the needles had fallen out of it. We had the cross and bearings with us.
Instead of a workbench, a tripod was very suitable, which we always carry with us to maintain the raised side of the car. This time we did not use the tripod for its intended purpose, since the universal joint assembly can be pulled out of the rear wheel hub without lifting the car. It turned out that the hinge body just passes into the hole in the tripod for the support rod. Putting a fork on the surface of the tripod, they began to knock with a hammer on the end of the opposite bearing through the head of the socket wrench. Everything moved nicely in one direction. Naturally, all locking half rings were previously removed. The rest was a matter of technique.
Just don't forget to lubricate the bearings when repairing. To do this, you can use the channels of the cross, into which you sequentially pour oil before installing it in the bearing.
Zaz 968. FRONT SUSPENSION
The most common work associated with the partial disassembly of the suspension is the replacement of the shock absorber or its rubber bushings, the replacement of bushings for steering knuckles, torsion bars and shock absorber springs.
When changing the shock absorber, it is required to hang the front wheel (for a better approach, you can remove the wheel), loosen the nut of the upper shock absorber mounting, unpin and unscrew with a wrench 24 mm ball stud nut. Grasping the bottom of the shock absorber, turn it so that the ear comes out of the finger. In this position, you can change the bushings. On some vehicles, it is not possible to remove the shock absorber ear from the finger because of a small distance from it to the mudguard wall. In such cases, you can get by with a minimum of additional work: unscrew the nut (tightening the suspension arm, remove its screw and, hitting the upper part of the fist with a hammer from the inside, move the finger relative to the arm.
Changing the knuckle ball joint bushings will require more detailed disassembly. Here you need to sleep the drum, pads, brake shield, unscrew the screw plugs of the knuckle joints. If you only need to change the outer bearing of the ball stud, then you do not need to disconnect it from the lever.
The dismantling of the steering knuckle begins with the removal of the wheel, then the side rod, shock absorber (lower part) are disconnected from the steering knuckle, the screws of the lever clamp are released. With heavy hammer blows on the fist, the fist with fingers is pushed out of the lever clamps. In the end, you need to make sure that the fist does not hang on the brake hose. After the knuckle is released, it can be temporarily hung by a finger with a screwed nut by inserting it into the ear of the shock absorber.
The suspension arm is secured against axial movement by a bolt entering the torsion bar hole. Therefore, first of all, after unscrewing the lock nut, unscrew the locking bolt with a special 8X17 hex wrench mm. Sometimes the bolt is so "grabbed" that its internal hexagon is broken. In such cases, the bolt is unscrewed from the outer surface with a gas wrench.
When the lever is pulled out of the pipe, the end of the torsion bar is exposed. If the torsion bar needs to be changed, then it is also necessary to release the lever on the opposite side and unscrew the middle stopor bolt of the pipe. When removing the torsion bar from the pipe, oil will flow, so a drain can must be placed under the ends of the pipes.
Usually the torsion bar is taken out with pliers at the end. But there are cases, especially in the absence of lubrication or breakage of the torsion bar sheet, when it is very difficult to remove the torsion bar. It is necessary to try to knock in one direction and the other, and then knock out the torsion bar through a drift in a more pliable direction. The installation of the torsion bar begins with dragging it through the square hole of the middle support. Then you need to turn the locking bolt all the way and tap on the end of the torsion bar so that the bolt falls into the hole. Having screwed in the lock bolt again until it stops, tap on the opposite end of the torsion bar and finally tighten the bolt. Further assembly does not cause difficulties.
After dismantling the ball joints or removing the suspension arms, it is necessary to adjust the camber and toe of the front wheels. The collapse is easily checked by a plumb line. The distance from the plumb line to the upper and lower edges of the wheel rim is measured. The difference should be between 1-5 mm.
If the camber value does not fit within the norm, it is necessary to make an adjustment by rotating the ball pins with the terminal clamp screws loosened. The upper finger is rotated with the same key as for the torsion bar lock bolts. First you need to loosen the fastening nut on the shock absorber pin.
The lower finger is turned with a key 12 mm for flats. It should be remembered that the finger extends outward when we rotate it counterclockwise (when viewed from the mudguard).
However, there are often cases when the camber needs to be increased, but there are no opportunities for this. In other words, the adjusting fingers occupy the extreme position in the levers. This, by the way, is the most common reason for escorting you out of a service station if you decide to do a wheel alignment there.
What is the reason for the inability to establish the necessary collapse? The first is the deformation of the suspension arms. It is determined with the steering knuckle removed by measuring the distance between the ends of the upper and lower arms. The lower lever should protrude beyond the level of the upper by 10 ± 2 mm. The second reason is the wear of the steering knuckle joints and, above all, the inner ball surface of the pin and the inner liner. With equal wear of the upper and lower hinges, the camber should not change. It decreases from greater wear of the lower hinge. It is especially bad when, in the absence of lubrication, the inner liner is destroyed and the surfaces of the pin and the body of the inner part of the steering knuckle are subjected to intense wear.
Therefore, installing new inserts, as many do, may not give an effective result without replacing the fingers themselves. In case of significant wear on the inner surface of the knuckle, it may be necessary to change it. When changing the inner liners, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the seat, since the remnants of the old liner are often mistaken for the surface of the fist.
But what if the collapse still cannot be brought back to normal? The first way is to lengthen the helical groove of the fingers with a file. Sometimes it is enough to do this on the upper finger, sometimes also on the lower one. And only as a last resort, you should drill a new hole in the torsion bar.
And one more piece of advice: if you can't handle negative camber on one wheel, then at least reduce the camber on the other.
We measure the toe-in with a store-bought rack with a spring-loaded end and a scale that we insert between the front and rear wheels. Thanks to two plumb marks along the edges of the rail 180 mm the rack is perpendicular to the wheels and the same level from the ground. The difference between the dimensions of the rear and front wheels should be within 1-3 mm. If necessary, we adjust the convergence by rotating the transverse rod.
Naturally, the operation to measure the collapse and convergence must be carried out on a flat, horizontal area.
During maintenance of the ZAZ-968M front suspension, care should be taken when tightening the filler plugs
torsion pipes. Breaking the threads in the pipes costs nothing, since
her very little in a cylindrical wall.
Zaz 968. REAR SUSPENSION
Removing the rear suspension from the car is easy. The suspension arm rests on two silent block bolts and the lower end of the shock absorber. But the rear brake actuator pipeline and the parking brake cable are suitable for the lever, which must be disconnected.
We remove the tip of the parking brake cable from the pin of the expanding lever (unpin the pin) on the brake shield, and remove the cable sheath from the slot of the thrust wall, having previously unbent the locking plate.
The tube coming from the working brake cylinder is disconnected from the hose, releasing the union nut at the same thrust walls sheaths of the parking brake cable. Naturally, disconnecting the pipeline will then require bleeding the brake system to remove air.
Is it possible to do without this operation? There is a way to avoid disconnection of the pipeline, if when removing the suspension arm take off hang the bearing housing and the brake shield on the pipeline. And to disconnect the pipeline from the lever, in the thrust wall cut a groove with a hacksaw, similar to the groove for the cable parking brakes. To prevent the pipeline from jumping out of groove, it can be tied to a resistant wall with wire.
When removing the silent block bolts, it should be borne in mind that the outer bolt cannot be pulled out of the bracket, since its head is located next to the side wall of the bottom at the threshold. Therefore, it is necessary to disconnect the lever together with the bracket. Key 17 mm unscrew the 2 bolts outside and the nut under the rear seat.
Often, especially when the car is operated in winter, it is difficult to remove the bearing housing from the lever hole. They tightly grow together due to rust formed from the action of salt, which is sprinkled on the winter road.
There is no need to rush here, so as not to irreparably damage the details. First you need to swing the body with hammer blows through the knockout. Strikes must be applied alternately on the right and left
housing flange protrusions. When the body moves
and it will turn a little (at least from blows), we hammer a large screwdriver into the junction of the body and the brake shield. Then, with blows on the body from the inside (through the hole in the lever), we finally knock out the body. Before installation, it is necessary to remove rust from lubricate the surface with lithol.
After suspension assembly, and sometimes just as the operation requires adjustment of the position of the rear wheels. This operation is forced by the beginning of intensive wear of the rear wheel tire.
Recall the method of adjusting the convergence of the rear wheels. Each wheel is adjusted separately by driving the gasket under the vertical shelf of the bracket: internal - to increase convergence and external - to reduce. The gasket is made of steel strip 60X30X1 mm, in which a groove is cut with a depth of 22 mm for M12 bolt. One such gasket gives a change in convergence (the difference in distances from the axle of the car to the front and rear points of the protrusion of the wheel tire) 0.5 mm.
Since the axle of the car is difficult to determine, it is replaced by a parallel transfer to the outside of the car of a stretched thread that touches the sidewall of the tire of the front wheel and through the spacer of the rear. The spacer should have a thickness equal to half the difference between the track of the front and rear wheels. Then measure the distance between the thread and the front of the sidewall of the rear wheel. Convergence is considered normal if the measured distance differs from the thickness of the spacer by ± 2 mm.
As for the camber of the rear wheels, it must be installed by itself with proper assembly and compliance of all parts with the drawings. However, during operation, the camber may change under the influence of deformation of the lever and the supporting surface of the body, as a rule, in the direction of negative.
According to our observations and according to the results of comparing data on rear-wheel drive vehicles produced earlier abroad, the rear wheel camber should be 0°±1°. Based on this, the difference between the distance to the plumb line from the upper to the lower edge of the wheel rim is ±5 mm can be considered the norm. Provided that such a difference between the left and right wheel does not exceed 2.5 mm.
What to do if the collapse is more than normal? Small compensation up to 2 mm can be achieved by placing spacers under the horizontal shelf of the arm bracket. In this case, you may have to saw a little holes in the body for the horizontal hinge bolt. If you need to remove a larger camber, you will either have to change the lever, or make its hinge. We had a case where the negative camber was 14 mm, and after changing the lever - 3 mm.
Zaz 968. STEERING
Most often in steering it is necessary to disassemble the steering rod joints.
Having unpinned and unscrewed the nuts of the fingers, it is necessary to remove them from the conical holes of the rods. Usually, the conical connection of the finger with the hole is so tight that you cannot pull the finger out without effort. The fastest pressing out is the application of sharp blows with a hammer on the side surface of the part where the pin is pressed.
However, in order for the finger to fall out from blows, a certain Skill is needed, and at first this may not work. Then you need to apply devices.
There are no devices for pressing out the fingers of the Zaporozhets, but there are for the Moskvich. This is a cylinder with a cut off side surface, which has a notch at one end and a screw at the other. The device is driven by a recess into the gap between the rod and the hinge; the screw is brought to the end of the finger and, when rotated with a key, squeezes it out.
With such a device, the fingers of the Zaporozhets are normally pressed out, except for the middle fingers of the steering arm and the pendulum lever, where the device is not included.
You can press out the finger with a clamp, after removing the plug from the hinge. In this case, by pressing the screw on the end of the finger, the latter falls through two adjacent parts at once. To remove the hinge cap, you need to release the retaining ring. It is constantly pressed against the end of the groove by the hinge spring, soRice. 15.Removing the locking ring of the ball pin 1 - steering rod, 2 - puller, 3 - ball finger, 4 - locking ring, 5 - press the round-nose pliers on the plug.
This is easily done with a small universal puller (fig. 15). His paws need to cling to the body
hinge, (having previously lifted the protective cover), and press the screw on the center of the plug. As soon as the tension has disappeared, we squeeze the antennae of the locking ring with round-nose pliers and remove it from the groove. We release the puller and remove the plug, seal, spring, pressure washer and insert from the hinge.
After disassembling the hinge, the locking ring often loses its elasticity and pops out of the groove when put in place. It is not possible to completely restore elasticity, but it is possible to increase the outer diameter of the ring. To do this, put the ring on a smooth metal support and tap on it with a hammer. The ring will flatten out a little and expand in breadth.
After completing the assembly of the hinge, do not forget to coat it with plasticine from the side of the plug.
We talked a lot about how hard it is to decompress a ball stud. But when it is not necessary, it can be pressed out by itself, and then it needs to be tightened. This is not always easy to do because the finger can spin with the nut, and there is nothing to support it.
In this case, we screw the second M10X1 nut onto the finger, and we tighten the screw inside this nut with force. Supporting the additional nut with a wrench, it is easy to tighten the main nut. If you do not have a nut and an M10X1 screw, then you can temporarily borrow the shock absorber mounting nut (in the trunk or engine compartment), and the screw from the axle shaft flange.
The loosening of the steering mechanism of the Zaporozhets is a fairly common phenomenon. Therefore, it can hardly be considered reasonable to turn out the main fixing screw from the side of the mudguard to control the oil level in the steering mechanism.
In general, it is better not to touch this screw, since the threads in the aluminum steering gear housing are very weak. But, on the other hand, it must be tightened as it weakens. There is a way out of this situation - replace the standard M10X55 screw with a longer one with an additional nut. Such a screw is screwed all the way into the body of the steering gear housing, and the compression to the mudguard is carried out with a nut when the screw is stationary (Fig. 16).
As for the control of oil in the steering mechanism, it is better to simply add oil from time to time through the plug in the mechanism cover.
Rice. 16.Steering gear mount:
/ - steering gear, 1 - screw, 3 - nut, 4 - spring washer, 5 - washer, 6 - shims
BRAKES
The main difficulty in disassembling the main brake cylinder is disconnecting it from the pipelines. Sometimes it only takes a minute, more often it turns into a problem.
Usually the wrench crushes the ribs of the nuts and turns. The first rule is to use a relatively new key,the mouth of which more tightly covers the nut. But even that doesn't always help.
Rice. 17.Elimination of brake fluid leakage from the pipeline seal: / - cylinder fitting, 2 - tube, 3 - screw, 4 - lead gasket
Motorists have come up with a whole arsenal of various devices for unscrewing the union nuts of pipelines. These are special clamps, improved pliers, special nuts, etc. For example, we use a special nut that is easy to make at home from a standard M12 nut. We give the nut hole a hexagonal shape with a needle file so that a nut with a wrench size of 12 fits tightly into it mm. Then on one side with a hacksaw we make two through cuts to form a groove with a width of 6 mm.
We put such a special nut through the groove on the pipeline, and then on the pipeline nut, and with a key 19 mm loosen the nut.
Well, if there are no fixtures, and a regular key is already turning along the edges of the nut, you can use a gas key. However, it is still better to spend an extra half an hour for the manufacture of a special nut, since after applying the gas wrench, the surface of the pipeline nut will deteriorate even more.
After connecting the pipeline to the cylinder, a leak may occur due to damage to the inner surface of the flared part of the tube. To ensure the seal, we use a lead cap made from a pre-flattened strip of lead. The cap itself is formed from a strip placed on a plate with a hole, lightly hitting a rod (for example, a screw), which deepens the strip into the hole in the plate. A hole is made in the center of the cap. The cap is put on a spherical protrusion in the hole of the cylinder, which will now go into the inside of the tube through the lead gasket (Fig. 17).
To remove the pistons, it is necessary to unscrew the two restrictive screws from the bottom of the cylinder. Regardless of the condition of the cuffs, it is better to change them.
When disassembling the master brake cylinder, unscrewing the end nut causes a certain difficulty, especially when there is no powerful vise in which to clamp the cylinder. We use this approach. We cover the cylinder body at the nut with an adjustable wrench, and put a socket wrench with a head 27 on the nut mm, the handle of which we lengthen with a pipe. We put the cylinder with the keys on the floor. With one foot we hold the adjustable wrench, and with the other we press on the end pipe (Fig. 18). With such a powerful attack, the nut always gives in.
It is necessary to assemble the cylinder from the side opposite to the threaded part, so that the cuffs do not wrap when passing through the thread. First, we lower the piston of the rear wheels with a cuff and a washer at its end into a vertically placed cylinder, wrap the restrictive screw. Then we put a large-diameter spring, a cup, a small-diameter spring on the second piston, insert everything into the cylinder, fix it with a restrictive screw.
Sometimes it is necessary to re-fix the plastic fitting for supplying fluid to the cylinder. This is due to the lock washer being loose or broken. Once, for this reason, the liquid from the tank completely leaked out.
Before installing the fitting, thoroughly clean the seat and especially the groove into which the teeth of the lock washer should jump.
We put a rubber sealing ring on the fitting from the bottom side, a lock washer from the top and lower the entire
Rice. 18.Unscrewing the end nut of the brake master cylinder
kit in the cylinder seat. Then we put a tube or a suitable head of the socket wrench on the fitting and hit it with a hammer. The fitting will sit in place, and the lock washer will lock it in the socket.
However, there is a case when, after this, a brake fluid leak appears again. Here the matter is in the sealing ring, which, apparently, lacks the force for tight pressing to the surfaces of the cylinder and fitting. You can correct the defect by placing a homemade washer cut out of copper foil or tin under the spring washer.
Worse when the lock washer is broken and the spare is not. In this case, you can make a clamp around the cylinder from tin so that it presses the fitting through a pipe segment.
It is necessary to disassemble the brake slave cylinder when the cylinder is leaking. Before disassembly, seal the hole on the reservoir cap with adhesive tape, then the brake fluid will not flow out so much.
Disassembly is simple: remove the protective cover of the cylinder and unscrew the piston with a screwdriver. Then you need to inspect and feel the working surface of the cylinder. If it has scratches or a large output, then you need to change the cylinder assembly. If the condition is normal, then it is enough to change the cuff on the piston. Recall that cuffs with a diameter of 19 are installed on the upper cylinders of the front wheels and on the rear wheels. mm, on the lower cylinders of the front wheels - 22 mm.
It is convenient to put on the cover of the working cylinder straightened, and then unscrew the edges of the cover on the cylinder.
To remove the brake pads, you need to release them from the tie- uh springs. The springs on the front brakes are the same, on the rear they are different - the upper one is longer than the lower one. With a large screwdriver, pry off the end of the spring and “shoot off” it.
The springs are easy to install. One end is inserted into the hole in the block. The second end is put on some kind of conical rod, for example, the non-working part of the file. The thin end of the rod is inserted into the hole, and the other end is pulled to such a position until the spring hook is behind the hole. In this case, the hook begins to slide down the rod and falls into the hole (Fig. 19).
Some difficulties sometimes arise when putting a brake drum on new pads, especially on restored ones with glued linings.
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Rice. 19. Installing the return spring to the bar
The first obstacle is that the drum does not fit on the pads at all. There can be three reasons for this: a shoulder on the brake drum, the pistons are not in the extreme position, the pads on the pads are too thick.
The shoulder on the brake drum is easily cut off with a triangular scraper or, if it is not available, with a file.
Brake cylinders "Zaporozhets" automatically adjust the gaps between the pads and drums, but this adjustment is carried out in one direction as a compensation for the gap increasing due to wear.
Therefore, when we install new pads, the split rings in the cylinders are in the old position, that is, they are shifted to the periphery by the amount of pad wear. To return the split rings to their original position, it is necessary to pull off the pads from opposite sides with mounting blades, catching on the shoulder of the brake shield. In this case, it is necessary to unscrew the cylinder valve a little so that when the liquid piston moves, you can go somewhere.
If the undertaken operations did not help, you will have to file the surface of the overlays with a file. Places of removal of material are determined by scrolling the raised wheel with the engine or a test drive.
Some motorists, in order to put on a drum, cut off the ends of the pads a little, which abut against the piston slot. But this way is not the best. By cutting off the end of the block, we break the shape of the cylindrical surface, which will lead to an incomplete fit of the blocks to the drum.
The dismantling of at least one cylinder ends with bleeding the brake system to remove air. This is done by repeating the cycle - pressing the brake pedal 3-5 times, turning the valve half a turn.
The bleeding operation in the absence of a flyover requires hanging the rear wheels in order to get close to the valve of the working brake cylinder. The front wheels can not be hung out, just turn them so that the valve is accessible. Usually pumping is done by two: one - at the wheel, the other - in the cabin.
But there are ways to manage alone. The first method is to fix the brake pedal in the depressed position, in which it is possible, after leaving the passenger compartment, to unscrew and wrap the cylinder valve. The pedal can be fixed with a tire pump by resting it on the front seat.
For the second method, you need to have a special tank cap with a valve. Air is pumped into the tank and this creates pressure in the system.
You rarely see a Zaporozhets with a good parking brake. When you adjust it for reliable braking, it continues to slow down the wheels in its original position. If you adjust for the absence of contact between the pads and the drums, then there is not enough travel for braking.
This is due to the design features of the parking brake drive. The absence of a fixed arm pivot requires a large amount of cable travel due to the sequential, rather than simultaneous, as in other cars, movement of the pads to the drum. In addition, the supports of the cable sheaths are not rigid enough. Under these conditions, the effectiveness of the parking brake is so dependent on a slight change in the state of the working surface of the pads, wear of the linings and other factors that many motorists do not use the parking brake at all. Well and It is not difficult to demonstrate good brake performance once during an inspection, since the traffic police do not check whether the brakes are fully released after applying the parking brake.
How to fix the situation? You can think of several ways, but you should remember the requirement of the rules of the road that you can not operate a car with a redesigned brake system, provided by the manufacturer.
For example, without changing the design of the parking brake, we improved its efficiency by increasing the total travel of the brake lever. To do this, you need to disassemble the lever, saw off the upper part of the gear sector (by 3 teeth), and cut a groove in the handle from below so that the lever falls lower. The leveling roller must be moved forward to the second position.
Such an alteration on the ZAZ-968M also allows you to have a more rational position of the lever handle, which provides more effort and does not create inconvenience when driving (for undersized drivers, the elbow is peeled against the constantly protruding lever handle).
Zaz 968. STARTER
To remove and install the starter, you must have an approach to the lower right side of the engine. The easiest way to do this is on a flyover. If this is not possible, you need to raise the right side of the car, place a stand under the rear suspension arm and remove the rear wheel. Then disconnect the battery. After removing the hatch cover from the right side of the engine mudguard (unscrew 2 Mb screws), you will gain access to the starter relay. To disconnect the wires suitable for the relay, you will need Keys 12 and 8 mm. In order not to mix up the wires during installation, you need to remember or write down their location. True, those of them that fit thick contact bolts (M8) have tips with a large hole, so it is difficult to confuse them. We are talking about two wires: blue for the starter going to the additional relay and white for the ignition coil. When viewed from the end of the starter mounted on the engine, then the blue wire must be connected to the bolt located to the left of the thick bolt. On the relay cover, the stud with the white wire is marked (VK), but it is not always possible to see it in the dark under the car.
Having freed the starter from the wires, key 17 mm unscrew the two nuts located on the flange of the clutch housing, and take out the starter together with the studs through the mudguard hatch.
Starter malfunctions are most often associated with wear on the drive, brushes and burning of relay contacts.
To replace the actuator, unscrew the two cap screws 9 mm, disconnect the wire from the starter to the relay. Then, inserting a screwdriver into the gap between the stator and the drive cover, move the stator and remove it. To remove the rotor from the drive cover, it is necessary to unpin and remove the lever pin.
It is possible to remove the starter drive from the shaft only after removing the locking ring.
To change the brushes, you need to remove the stator and the back cover from it. In this case, two brushes connected to the stator come out of the plastic brush holders of the cover, and the other two connected to the “ground” remain in the cover.
We had a case when a wire fell out of the brush. There was no new brush. We got out of the situation like this. In the hole of the brush, they cut the M4 thread, irradiated the end of the wire and also cut the thread. They wrapped the brush on a wire and drove it like that for several years.
If you suspect a malfunction of the contacts of the starter traction relay, you must unscrew the nut of the M5 bolt (without the marking "VK") and two screws securing the cover. The cover should be removed carefully by pressing on the bolt, which, after removing the cover, will be held on the wire of the relay winding.
The contact bolts are removed from the cover and cleaned on a board wrapped in fine sandpaper. Sometimes on the surface of the contact caps of the bolts such depressions are formed that cannot be removed with sandpaper. In this case, it is necessary to turn the bolts in the square holes - sockets of the cover so that the contact disk is pressed against the unworn surface.
To repair the starter relay, it is not necessary to remove the entire starter from the vehicle. Only the relay housing can be removed by unscrewing the two screws on its flange. Before that, be sure to mark with a risk the relative position of the relay and the starter housing so as not to disturb the location of the relay contact bolts.
With a motor in the trunk. But, by the way, he himself flew past us at a speed of 300 km / h. Say, all of the above looks like a fabulous dream? I assure you, we are talking about our reality, and such a car exists in reality.
Intention
The owner of this car, Eugene, is seriously into drag racing and has been building cars that can go fast in a straight line for about eight years. So this ZAZ had to master the science of overtaking everyone who went in parallel with him. The "Nine", which Evgeny had before him, drove the test 402 meters in exactly 11 seconds - the new project was supposed to not only surpass this result, but also compare favorably with a non-standard appearance and originality of content. Just at that moment Zhenya came across an advertisement for the sale of Zaporozhets.
Outside
As you can see from a first glance at the car, its appearance has become a compromise between the stock exterior and the functionality of a racing car. On the one hand, the 968th has not undergone a global cut, reconfiguration and “uprooting”, retaining absolutely factory body parameters and even design elements - moldings, chrome mirrors and door handles and, which is especially noticeable, “native” wheels with front caps. On the other hand, something still had to be changed.
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The new engine and suspension meant a changed rear wheel track, which was compensated by arch extensions. They also came in handy because the wheels themselves, of course, could not remain standard either - Soviet tires with a width of 155 millimeters simply would not allow transforming the increased potential into speed. Victims of aerodynamics, weight reduction and increased safety fell bumpers and factory glazing - the windows are covered with polycarbonate and protected with sheet aluminum. Well, the new engine also required much more serious cooling than the old one: now the feed is riddled with ventilation holes, and in place of the right rear window there is a hefty “reference” to the predecessor of the 968M, the “eared” Zaporozhets - an air intake.
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Inside
Unfortunately, it was not possible to keep the same good share of authenticity inside as outside. The rear seats, of course, are a thing of the past, giving way to the motor. The front ones did not provide any proper “perseverance” or any kind of security, therefore they also rightly went to the garage, replaced by the only driver's bucket. The same fate befell both the front panel and the instrument panel - they did not work with thirty-year-old indicators, writing them off as a reserve. The only reminder of Soviet times is leatherette-covered door cards.
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Technique
If initially the ZAZ-968M is a rear-engine car, with an engine located in the rear overhang (by the way, like everyone’s favorite ones), now the power plant has moved within the wheelbase. So in its current form, Zaporozhets Evgenia is a real “supercar with a mid-engine layout”. An interesting way to implement the swap: in fact, the previous owner took the drawings of the front of the front-wheel drive Lada and welded a similar design in the back of the Zaporozhets. Levers, racks, brakes - everything was taken from the "nine". Unless there is no steering rack, and the tie rods play the role of additional levers. From the point of view of maintainability, an excellent option: the car turned out to be unique, but spare parts for it can be found in any store.
The racks were chosen shortened, with stiffer springs and shock absorbers. The front suspension schematically remained native to ZAZ, with torsion bars - only the shock absorbers were changed to stiffer gas-filled ones from Niva. Even the brakes in front left their native drum brakes - and after all, by some miracle they manage to stop this projectile from mind-blowing speeds for it! We are sure that the developers did not exactly count on this. True, Yevgeny still plans to change them: from 200 km / h they reinforce the car quite well, but from 300 km / h and above, which Zaporozhets is capable of, they are clearly not enough. Now, so that more powerful rear mechanisms do not overbrake, and the car does not go skidding, Evgeny added a brake force regulator to the system.
The design of the suspension and engine mounts is calculated and welded very carefully. The only thing that required additional reinforcement was the attachment points of the motor itself. It so happened that on the very first trip on a freshly assembled car, the engine fell off all supports at once. Surprisingly, he did not stop working at the same time, so Eugene got to the garage on his own. Apparently, the previous owner, who was already preparing the engine compartment for the swap, simply did not count on installing such a powerful engine. Zhenya did some magic with the strengthening and modification of the bindings - now everything is in perfect order.
Now let's talk about the main thing - about the engine. There are not as many improvements on it in relation to the developed power as one might expect, but the point is not in quantity, but in quality and efficiency, and the result is impressive. Evgeniy did not carry out exact measurements at the stand, but according to the ratio of the mass of the car to the time on the drag strip, about 350 hp are supposedly working in the engine. With. (excluding optional nitrous oxide). Improvements include Stolnikov sports camshafts, lightweight 121 connecting rods, titanium valve plates, a Stinger receiver and Stinger manifolds.
The crankshaft, pistons and liners remained stock. And all this filling copes quite well with a pressure of 2 (!) Bars, pumped, frankly, by a rather big turbine - the Chinese analogue of the 35th Garrett. True, there are difficulties with the implementation of power and torque: the clutch and drives have become, in fact, consumables. As for the gearbox, the factory version from the VAZ-2109 was enough for two starts, after which I had to go along the track and collect the destroyed gears. After replacing the gearbox with a new one, Eugene reinforced it with plates - now the unit is still coping with loads.
The exhaust was self-welded, which was not difficult - the motor is located in the rear of the body, and there is no need to pull a long track. A pipe with a diameter of 70 mm simply comes out of the turbine, and a smaller pipe separates from it, from the waste gate.
As for the cooling system, everything is just as concise. True, in a standard Zaporozhets, but in the case of a highly forced motor, such a trick will no longer work. Therefore, a three-row copper radiator from GAZelle and cooling fans from Niva were installed in the trunk. When designing and assembling the machine, they generally tried to use proven solutions that are unlikely to fail. This, for example, also applies to the fuel system: the well-known Bosch 044 pump in combination with a filter from UAZ and injectors with a capacity of 870 cc. cm reliably supplies the engine with the necessary amount of gasoline.
The turbine is not the only thing that allows you to squeeze extra horsepower out of the engine. Under the hood, which, as we all remember, is essentially a trunk for Zaporozhets, there is a nitrous oxide cylinder from the well-known brand NOS. Eugene doesn't use it often, but if the car is wearing good slicks, the nitrous helps make the acceleration even crazier. After all, we are talking about a car with a mass of 730 kilograms, not counting the pilot.
