SUV with which transmission is better to choose?: "Automatic" or "mechanics. Video: Manual vs automatic, which type of transmission is better off-road? Driving on steep slopes

Well, my curious ones, we begin to disassemble the machine in extreme situations, yes, “slippage” is precisely an abnormal situation in the operation of the automatic transmission. There are a lot of rumors and fables around this topic that it is impossible to slip at all, this is almost immediately the death of the transmission, that this can be done without fear. Where is the truth? After all, you can get stuck not only in winter, but also, let's say, in the mud when traveling to the country, and it's easy and simple! But what about all-wheel drive cars, because many of them also have automatic transmissions? Read on, sort through the shelves ...

I have already spoken many times about automatic transmission, and that there are several types of them:

• Classic torque converter
• Variable speed drive
• Robot

They are different in their structure and characteristics, a lot of useful information. But it just so happened that one of the most common now is the automatic, the classic torque converter. It occupies about half of the market (even a little more), the rest is shared by the variator and the robot. It is with him that the main questions are connected.

What you need to remember about automatic transmission

Guys, I have said many times and now I repeat, an automatic transmission is created only for one. FOR COMFORTABLE CITY DRIVING, on good cleared roads. It is not suitable for off-road, for combat snowdrifts and dirt. Any of yours through dimensional "slipping" affects the resource of the machine negatively! It just needs to be remembered as a given!

If in winter we can’t do anything with you, well, such is our climate. That's to climb consciously into the mud and "fight off-road", for me it's beyond understanding. Of course, now there are luxury SUVs, and with machine guns, but you really don’t want to get into the mud on them, because they are very expensive. And also they are not designed for this, even if there are a lot of all kinds of blocking and " electronic assistants". If you got up in a very difficult "swamp" and have been skidding for several tens of minutes, you will definitely have an icon with automatic transmission overheating on your car's scoreboard. He can forcibly turn off your transmission, and you can't do anything about it. All this is done so that you don’t “ditch” it right here (although about four-wheel drive will be slightly lower).

Remember Golden Rule- if you like to drive through the mud, then this is definitely a mechanic. There you will burn the clutch at most, but this repair will be much cheaper than restoring the automatic transmission later.

So the machines (in great application), this is an urban transmission, I emphasize once again created for the city, well, the maximum for defeating a snow-covered yard, but no more.

An automatic transmission is a very complex unit, here it is transmitted from the engine using pressure (or scientifically, using friction) of the fluid. Read in it about the automatic transmission clutch. In short, two discs directed at each other, enclosed in a torque converter, transmit torque from the engine to the transmission - one begins to rotate and create fluid pressure, with which the second one begins to rotate, as if everything is elementary.

But such a structure is a direct source of heat, I would even say excess heat, which is why it must be of very high quality and not burn. The second link that heats the oil inside are friction discs, they he rotation are also capable of overheating.

That is why on modern automatic transmissions, they now put a liquid cooling radiator, this is a must! It takes the heat that is generated inside and dissipates it outside by blowing incoming air, as well as from the fan of the main engine cooling radiator (usually mounted next to it). After all, even traffic jams, without much slippage, can heat up the machine quite strongly, and you stand still, so the airflow turns on to save the machine from excess heat.

Now let's imagine skidding in snow or mud, what is happening with us?

You are standing still - the car is slipping, the pressure and friction of the fluid inside the torque converter is CRAZY, and the friction discs are also throwing temperatures. This causes the liquid inside to boil! There is no airflow, the car stands still, the engine fan turns on, but it is not able to dissipate such an amount of heat generated. That is, the usual boiling occurs inside. True, I want to make a reservation - this is when you skid for a really long time, say more than 15 minutes, constantly without rest.

Why is it detrimental to automatic transmission:

• The torque converter suffers very much, from high temperatures, it can simply be jarred, because it not only warms up, pressure also acts on it. I personally saw that the blades broke.
• friction discs. As we are already with you, they are divided into two types - metal and soft, usually made from pressed and impregnated paper (in other words, cardboard). For them high temperatures(boiling), are very destructive, they begin to decay corny. Sometimes they even stick to metal discs. And this is a 100% repair.
• ATF fluid, it also has a limit. After it boils, if the temperature continues to rise, it begins to “burn”, like all oils (even engine oils) actually. And after this has happened, it loses its properties for lubrication and begins to thicken, and in the most difficult cases to precipitate. Thus, not only is the box not effectively lubricated, but the liquid also begins to clog all channels, such as a cooling radiator, valve body, oil pump.

Here are the answers to all your questions. That is why many manufacturers install signaling systems on the instrument panel that can forcibly turn off your transmission when you skid too much! I think this is very correct! The car retains its node itself.

So why shouldn't you skid at all?

Guys you can, but without fanaticism! If you feel that you specifically sat down, then you need to ask to be pushed out, that is, you need to help your “machine”, he alone may not be able to cope.

The slipping should take place as follows:

• We do not skid in D - DRIVE mode, it is practically forbidden. Box from increased speed can jump in gears, which is fatal for her.
• If there is a reduced mode, it is usually "L" or " manual mode"- set the first or second gear. It is on them that you need to skid.

• Remember that after 3 minutes of constant slipping, the temperature in the automatic transmission rises by 30%! After 5 minutes at all 40%, this is already the limit. So after 2 - 3 minutes of slippage, let the machine rest. I would even turn off the car and leave it for 10-15 minutes, in winter it will cool down very quickly.

• If you feel that you sat down specifically, then it is better to call someone to help, either push or pull out! Don't ruin your transmission.

Please observe these complicated rules, and it will work for a long time, it will only please you.

Is it possible to skid on an automatic with all-wheel drive?

Guys often have automatic transmissions, on SUVs they are not much different - I mean the design. There is also a cooling radiator, the same - a torque converter and friction discs. Doesn't that tell you anything? True, in order to carry such a “carcass”, such transmissions can “digest” more torque than an ordinary passenger cars, it would be beyond blasphemy - for the boxes to be the same on a class “A” car and a heavy frame SUV. Nevertheless, the designs are slightly different, for SUVs it is stronger, if you want reinforced or something.

But after all, his weight is different, often approaching 3 tons, but an ordinary private (classes “B” - “C”) foreign car weighs about 1 ton. Therefore, it will be stronger at the SUV.

Have you purchased a car with an automatic transmission? You are probably wondering how to properly use such a car, because correct operation extend the life of the automatic transmission and help you avoid unnecessary breakdowns. Automatic transmission is a complex and expensive mechanism, let's look at how to use it correctly.

Start of movement

Any trip begins with the factory and warming up the engine. Do not rush to start moving right away. If the temperature is positive outside, it is enough to wait a minute or two for the oil to be distributed over the box and it to enter the operating mode. Remember, the colder it is outside, the more time it will take to warm up, so in cold weather it will not be superfluous to stand with the engine running for 10 minutes or more. In addition, it will also be a plus for the car engine.

Reminder! The engine can only be started in positions "P" or "N". Moreover, it is desirable in the position "P". If your car does not start, check that the gear shift lever is set to one of these two positions.

So, you have warmed up the car, now you can start driving. Switch the gear lever from the position "P" in one of the positions for movement and be sure to wait for the easy dot! The box takes some time to switch modes (usually about 1 second), and if you hit the gas hard before this point, it can cause damage.

Pedals

Driving a car with an automatic transmission is carried out exclusively with one foot! The second should be on a special stand, which is located on the left. Driving a car with two feet is extremely dangerous. For example, when you have one foot on the brake and the other on the gas, there is a sudden obstacle ahead. You apply the brake sharply, your body drags forward by inertia and the gas is simultaneously pressed, you can forget about effective braking. It is quite possible in this case to speed up even more.

Automatic transmission operating modes

Let's look at the automatic transmission modes.

P

parking. In this mode, the shaft and, accordingly, the drive wheels are blocked. Use this mode for long stops or when you leave the vehicle. You can switch to this mode only after a complete (!) stop of the car.

Reminder! To move the gear lever out of position "P" to another position, you must press the brake pedal!

Attention! In no case do not turn on this mode while the car is moving! This is fraught with breakage of the box!

If you park the car on a relatively flat surface, then there is no need to use the handbrake. If the slope is steep enough, then to reduce the load on the elements of the parking mechanism, it is best to proceed according to the following scheme:

• staging
• while holding the brake, pull the handbrake,
• release the brake, the car will most likely move a little,
• switch box to position "P",
• Withdrawal
• first move the gearshift lever to the drive mode,
• then, while holding the brake, remove the handbrake

R

Reverse. This mode is used for driving in reverse. You can switch to this mode only after the car is completely stopped and the brake pedal is depressed.

Attention! Switching the gearbox to this mode while moving forward will result in failure of the gearbox and other elements of the transmission and engine!

N

Many people think that when coasting downhill, you can save some fuel by switching the box to this mode, but this is not so, because then you still have to switch to the mode D, which will give an additional load on the box.

Also, when driving an automatic, it does not make sense to move the lever to the neutral position during short stops, for example, at traffic lights.

D

Basic driving mode. Most often, this mode is used to move forward. On an automatic transmission, this mode is suitable for driving at any speed, accessible to the car, from "0" to the maximum.

2

Only the first 2 gears. This mode is recommended when driving on winding mountain roads or when towing a trailer or other vehicle. Do not switch to this mode if the vehicle speed exceeds 80 km/h.

L

Only first gear. This mode is used for especially heavy road conditions, for example, to overcome off-road. Do not switch to this mode if the vehicle speed exceeds 15 km/h.

Additional modes of automatic transmission

On vehicles with automatic transmission, there are additional elements controls, let's look at them:

OverDrive (O/D)

This button is found on gearboxes that have more than three gears. The button for enabling this mode is usually located on the box lever. If the button "O/D" recessed, fourth gear is allowed. If you press it, then the light on the instrument panel will light up. "O/D OFF", which will mean that you have activated this mode.

Designed for overtaking other cars or other occasions when you need fast acceleration. Its action lies in the fact that it does not allow the box to switch above third gear, which ensures rapid acceleration.

Sometimes mode "O/D OFF" used for long climbs, when the engine begins to lack traction and the box begins to "rush" between third and fourth gear.

kickdown

This mode is activated by sharp pressing the gas pedal. In this case, the box automatically shifts down one or two gears, which provides a sharp acceleration. Switch to overdrive in this mode occurs at significantly higher engine speeds than normal acceleration. It is not recommended to use this mode for sharp acceleration "from a standstill", as this gives a very heavy load on the mechanism of the box. It is better to first let the car accelerate to at least 20 km / h, and then you can “gas to the floor”.

PWR/SPORT

This is a program mode that is designed for active driving. Shifting occurs at a higher RPM for faster acceleration. However, fuel consumption in this mode is maximum.

SNOW

This is a program mode that is designed for driving in winter. In this mode, the first gear is not included, acceleration starts immediately from the second gear, which reduces the likelihood of slipping of the drive wheels. Also in this mode, the shift occurs at a lower speed, which makes the car seem to be "sluggish", but provides more security movement in the snow. Some people use this mode in the summer as well, as fuel consumption in this mode is minimal. However, I would not advise doing this, since the first gear is disabled in this mode, and therefore all loads fall on the torque converter, which is actively heated. In winter, this is normal for him, and in summer it can lead to overheating and possible damage to the automatic transmission.

Engine braking in automatic transmission

It turns out that on automatic transmissions, as well as on manual ones, you can use engine braking.

Driving on steep slopes

If you have a button "O/D" you can press it, this will force the gearbox to shift into third gear and cause gentle engine braking and prevent the car from accelerating higher 80 km/h. Do not use this feature at speeds over 120 km/h.

Driving on steep slopes

Move the lever to position "2" . This will prevent your car from accelerating higher. 40-60 km/h.

Off-road driving

If you overcome off-road with a very steep climbs and descents, move the box to the position "L", this will prevent the car from accelerating higher on the slopes 10-20 km/h, and on the slopes will allow you to use the maximum torque from the engine.

Towing a car with automatic transmission

Many are interested in whether it is possible to tow a car with automatic transmission?

It is possible, but only when running engine (!) and neutral box "N", at speeds up to 50 km / h and at a distance of not more than 50 km. If your car does not start, it will be cheaper to use a tow truck than to pay for expensive gearbox repairs later.

If you are towing, then you should remember the following rules:

• such towing is generally undesirable and should only be used if there are no alternatives,
• the towed vehicle must be lighter or of the same mass as the towing vehicle,
• can only be towed in box positions "2" or "L" and at speeds up to 40 km/h,
• The automatic machine transfers not heavy trailers without problems.

Starting a car with automatic transmission from a "tug"

There is no consensus here. Some say that this is not possible, and moreover, it is dangerous for the automatic transmission. In many respects they are right right action you have every chance of getting into an expensive box repair. In addition, it is much more difficult than on the mechanics.

If you are completely confident in your actions and you have no other options (at least throw wires or rearrange the battery), I will give detailed instructions according to the factory of a car with an automatic transmission from a tow, found on the Internet:

“There is an opinion that a car with an automatic transmission cannot be started from a “tug”. This is not so. Set the lever to position N, turn on the ignition. cold weather press the gas pedal once to richen the mixture and start towing. Having reached a speed of 30 km/h for a cold transmission and 50 km/h for a warm one, drive at this pace for at least 2 minutes. To create in transmission required pressure oils. Then move the lever to position 2 and after the engine starts to rotate, press the gas pedal. As soon as the engine starts, return the lever to neutral. If the engine does not start after a few seconds, do not persist - move the lever back to "neutral" otherwise you will overheat the box. It is possible to repeat a second attempt according to the same procedure, having previously driven the car to “neutral”. You can also start the car on a slope.

automatic box gears is presented as a type of transmission, the operation of which is based on the choice of a suitable gear ratio in automatic order without the participation of the driver. The choice of gear ratio directly depends on the speed, the nature of the movement and some other parameters.

Another feature is that there is no clutch pedal in such machines, as it is carried out using a torque converter, the purpose of which is to transmit torque to the wheels.

More detailed information about how and what it happens, read the article of our specialist.

For information on how to adjust with an automatic transmission, read the material of our author.

Drivers still claim that there is nothing more convenient and reliable. mechanical box gears, but the facts speak for themselves - drivers prefer cars with automatic transmission more and more often.

Despite significant changes in the legislation, due to which drivers with automatic transmission can obtain special rights, beginners continue to be taught only mechanics. For this reason, many do not know the features and principles of driving a car with an automatic transmission.

If you still don’t know how to do it right, then be sure to read the interesting and most useful article of our specialist.

You can find information about what it is and how it differs from automation in the article of our expert.

Automatic transmission operating modes

Main Modes

First of all, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the operating modes of the automatic transmission, since it will not be possible to drive an automatic without these nuances. So, what are the designations of the letters on the “automatic” box and what gears do they represent?

1. P - Parking. This mode involves blocking the shaft and drive wheels. The relevance of use is observed if the driver leaves the car or during a long stop. Only after a complete stop vehicle activation of this mode is allowed, otherwise the gearbox may fail. To activate another position from this mode, you must use the brake pedal. If the surface is relatively flat, there is no need to use the handbrake. With a steep slope, it is necessary to follow the scheme for setting and releasing the handbrake. To set, you need to pull the handbrake while holding the brake, then release it, and the car will move a little. It remains only to activate the "P" position. To remove from hand brake it is necessary to transfer the lever to the driving mode and remove it from the handbrake while holding the brake.
2. N- Neutral gear . Relevant if you need to move the car a short distance with the engine running, for example, in a car service. Some drivers believe that activating this mode while driving downhill will save fuel. In fact, this is not the case, since you still have to switch to D mode, which will cause the gearbox to undergo additional stress. Also, the movement on the "automatic" does not require the activation of the neutral position during short stops, for example, at a traffic light.
3. R - Reverse. The mode must be activated when it is necessary to move in reverse. It is permissible to switch to this mode only after pressing the brake pedal and completely stopping the machine. Activating the mode in question while driving will lead to damage to the elements of the engine, transmission and the gearbox itself (for information on how to carry it out on automatic, read the article of our expert).
4. D - Basic driving mode. This mode is often used to move forward. Movement is possible on any available car speed from zero to maximum.
5. L - First gear only. Used for off-road driving or other difficult road conditions. Switching to this mode is not allowed if the car is moving at a speed higher than 15 km/h.
6. 2 - First 2 gears only. Suitable for driving a vehicle on a winding mountain road. Another option is towing another car or trailer. Driving at speeds above 80 km/h is an obstacle to the activation of the considered mode.

Additional Modes

Since it is possible to drive an automatic machine around the city correctly only with knowledge of all the symbols, it is also worth considering additional modes operation of the automatic box.

1. « kickdown» . The mode is activated by a sharp drowning of the gas pedal, which is accompanied by automatic switching Automatic transmission in two or one gear down for sharp acceleration. Engine speed in this case higher when compared with classic acceleration. Sharp acceleration from a standstill using the mode in question is unacceptable, otherwise the gearbox mechanism will take on too much load. Minimum allowable speed to activate "Kick-down" - 20 km / h.
2. OverDrive (O/D). You can see this button on the gear lever of vehicles with gearboxes designed for more than three gears. The use of fourth gear is valid if the button is pressed. When the position is released, the O / D OFF lamp lights up; in this mode, you can overtake cars due to rapid acceleration. The action of the button is aimed at prohibiting shifting above third gear, which ensures rapid acceleration. In some cases, this mode is usually used during a long climb, if the box starts to switch between third and fourth gear, and the motor does not have enough traction.
3. SNOW. Since it is necessary to drive the “automatic” box correctly at any time of the year, it is worthwhile to deal with winter regime. We are talking about the button for blocking the inclusion of the first gear, due to which acceleration is ensured immediately from the second. The risk of slipping of the drive wheels is significantly reduced. Also, the machine becomes less active due to the use of more low speed to switch, but the safety of vehicle control under conditions snow covered road rises. Due to the minimum fuel consumption in this mode, some motorists use it in the summer, but it is better not to do this, since the torque converter actively heats up and takes on the entire load. In winter, it is designed for this, but not in the summer.
4. WR/SPORT. In this mode, it is customary to actively ride. Activation is accompanied high speed, acceleration is fast, but fuel is consumed to the maximum.

Features of using automatic transmission

This principle of driving in a car with automatic transmission confuses drivers who previously used "mechanics", since it is necessary to drive an automatic transmission using only one foot. For the second, there is a special stand on the left.

It is extremely dangerous to use both feet to drive such a vehicle. This is due to the fact that if one foot is on the gas and the other is on the brake, when an obstacle occurs in front, the driver sharply presses the brake, but the inertia force is triggered and the body moves forward, due to which there is a risk of pressing the gas pedal as well. Braking in such a situation will obviously not be effective.

Simple yet very helpful tips and the rules regarding that, you can learn from the article of our specialist.

You can learn about the features and nuances of the work by reading interesting article our expert.

How to get under way

First of all, start the engine and warm it up, as it is unacceptable to start off on a machine with a cold engine. At positive temperatures, the waiting time is reduced to two minutes, which will ensure that the gearbox enters the operating mode due to the uniform distribution of oil. The lower the temperature outside the window, the longer it will take to warm up the engine. In cold weather we are talking about 10 minutes or more.

The engine can only be started in the "N" or "P" positions. The last option is more preferable. If the car does not start, make sure the lever is set to correct position. The movement can be started after warming up, to do this, activate one of the driving modes by switching the lever and wait for a small push. Sharply pressing the gas to a push can lead to breakage!

You can read detailed information about with an automatic transmission in the material of our expert.

Find out how the replacement takes place and what precautions should be taken from the article of our specialist.

How to brake

Since driving an “automatic” after “mechanics” is quite difficult, gaps in knowledge can be both at the stage of starting off and at the stage of braking. There are few rules here, the principle of pressing the brake pedal, if necessary, stops, but there are some nuances.

1. Stopping in front of a zebra or a traffic light is carried out in the "D" mode. Just push the brake pedal down.
2. You can activate the neutral mode in a long traffic jam if you want to save on gasoline. We are talking about a parking lot lasting more than 30 seconds. The brake pedal must not be released, otherwise there is a risk of accidentally hitting other cars.
3. If you are sure of a long stoppage of traffic on the highway, switch to "P" so that the right leg relaxes slightly.

Do not overly trust the automation of the vehicle and refuse to use the handbrake. The relevance of its use is observed at any protracted stop, according to the operating instructions for the car.

It is also advisable to use the handbrake in the following cases:

• stop on a slope
• stop to change tires
• stop while the engine is running.

Towing

The possibility of towing a vehicle with an automatic transmission is considered by many drivers, but the only condition in this case is a speed of less than 50 km / h, an activated neutral position and a running engine. The range of such towing should not exceed 50 km. If you can’t start the car, using the services of a tow truck will cost less than repairing the checkpoint.

If you are acting as a towing driver, remember the following nuances:

• the machine does an excellent job with not too heavy trailers;
• the vehicle you are towing must be the same weight or lighter than your vehicle;
• it is better to avoid such manipulations altogether if there are alternative options.

Launch from the "tug"

In this case, there is no consensus, and drivers perform such manipulations at their own peril and risk. If there are no alternative solutions and you are confident in yourself as experienced driver, you can take the risk and use the following instructions.

1. Activate the neutral position and start the engine.
2. Take a single step on the gas pedal in cold weather and start moving in tow.
3. Reach 50 km/h if the transmission is warm, or 30 km/h if it is cold. Continue driving for 2 minutes, during which time the oil pressure in the transmission will reach the required level.
4. Move the lever to position 2 and press the gas pedal as soon as the engine starts to rotate.
5. Return the lever to neutral when the engine starts.
6. If this does not happen after a few seconds, do not insist. The gearbox will overheat if you do not return to neutral.
7. Drive the car in neutral and repeat the steps.

* Each person loves to communicate with nature, but he always meets obstacles on his way that you cannot overcome without a certain skill. If there is no experience, you have to spend a lot of time and effort to drive a hundred, or even a dozen meters. It can be snow or sand drifts, a ford or a deep puddle, a slippery slope or slope, a washed out road or a deep rut. The skill comes with time, and knowledge of the basic techniques found by drivers and prompted by life itself will help reduce it. The ability to overcome this or that obstacle is limited by a number of factors: tractive effort, which have the drive wheels; their adhesion to the ground; the distance from the reference plane of the wheels to the lowest point of the vehicle ( ground clearance), the height of the location and the security of the nodes that are afraid of water (distributor, ignition coil, candles and exhaust pipe). * A few words should be said about the effort on the drive wheels. There are concepts such as torque and gear ratios transmission. These parameters are set by the constructor. Each driver can change their optimal values ​​​​by varying the speed crankshaft engine and including one or another gear of the gearbox. When do you have to use the maximum value of these parameters? When driving on soft ground, when the wheels sink deep, but do not slip. Here, rollers formed in front of the rear and front wheels. Their wheels are partially crushed, partially pushed in front of them. Almost all the energy of the engine is spent on this work. When it dries up, the engine speed and vehicle speed decrease despite the increased pressure on the accelerator pedal. There are jerks in the transmission. The car dies down in exhaustion, unable to overcome the resistance. What can be done in such a situation? First of all, you should lighten the car as much as possible by disembarking passengers or removing cargo. Then you need to smoothly drive back and also smoothly, accelerating, “ram” the resulting obstacle.
* If you are stuck in mud or snow in an automatic transmission car, do not try to rock the stalled car.

First of all, let's figure out what should be understood by the term "buildup". Everyone who has ever pulled out a stuck car knows that if it didn’t work out the first time, you should push it in sync with natural frequency fluctuations in the knurled recess. At the same time, the amplitude of movements increases, and at some point the wheels roll over the obstacle.

The same result can be achieved if, synchronously with the rocking of the car, switch the first and reverse speed, "pushing" it with the engine. Since the period of natural oscillations of a stuck car rarely exceeds a second, the gear lever has to be operated with maximum intensity. But the mechanical box is good because it turns on almost instantly. The "automatic" is more "thoughtful", after moving the selector handle it needs a few tenths of a second. Some designs allow you to shorten this gap by increasing the engine speed before the transmission is fully connected. But at the same time, the gears are switched on more rigidly, and the load on the clutches of the box increases many times.

* Often the turned front wheels interfere with getting out of a deep rut. Sometimes it is enough to install them directly to make the car budge. Sometimes, to get out of a deep rut, it is not enough to turn the wheels. In this case, it is necessary to dig with a shovel a gentle exit in front or behind in the direction of the car.

* When approaching a difficult section of the road, try to remember that the greater the inertia of the car, the higher the engine speed and the lower the gear, the more resistance the car can overcome. Therefore, having assessed the severity of the obstacle in advance, find such a mode of movement in order to skip the entire section on the move. Of course, on the way there may be such soil, sand or snow that the wheels will get stuck on the hub and the car will sit on the bottom. To prevent this from happening, everything that comes to hand should first be laid along the track: boards, branches, stones. In extreme cases, when very viscous soil comes across, and attempts to get out on your own are ineffective, it is better, in order not to damage the car, to resort to the help of a tug, winch or jack.

* By using manual winch you can quickly pull out a stuck car weighing up to 1 ton. For rural residents, hunters and fishermen, whose path is usually not limited to asphalt, such a winch is a must. She is able to come to the aid of a car stuck on a slippery slope, in a river or a deep puddle. Support for the winch (if it does not have special device) can serve as a tree, a stake, a shovel and even a mounting blade from a driver's tool.

* Great help in overcoming difficult areas is provided by various devices on the drive wheels: chains, bracelets, brackets of various designs. An effective and probably the simplest device to overcome slipping is a metal mesh with cells measuring 20 × 20 mm, which is placed under the wheels. Two strips of such a grid measuring 0.4 × 1.5 m can be easily placed in the trunk.

* Every driver should know that the higher the engine speed and the more abruptly the transmission is engaged, the sooner the drive wheels will start to spin. To avoid this, you need to learn to "feel" the engine. This is perhaps the most difficult thing to find and maintain optimal mode, which in many cases will ensure success. How can this be learned? Only through training. Drive on packed snow in first gear. Try to slowly and then quickly increase the engine speed with the accelerator pedal. The car will first accelerate, then at some point its speed will begin to decrease, and the engine will “howl” without your intervention. This will mean that one or two drive wheels have slipped (slid) and, since the resistance to their rotation has sharply decreased, the engine speed has increased.

Now repeat the maneuver, carefully "listening" to the engine. As soon as the crankshaft speed starts to rise arbitrarily, smoothly remove the “gas”, shift to second gear and accelerate the car.

In the process of training, you will notice that the car is sensitive not only to changes in engine speed, but also to manipulation of the clutch pedal. It is worth releasing it a little sharper, wheel slip will immediately follow. Overcoming a difficult section, it is better not to touch this pedal at all, so that there is no reason for a stop. If in a particular situation you cannot do without a clutch, you need to turn it on and off smoothly and carefully, focusing on the engine speed.

* The crankshaft speed must be constant and when driving along slippery road. Be aware that any change in engine operating conditions can cause an unexpected and unwanted stop. It is unpleasant when a section of a muddy road appears on the way, and even with a deep rut, because pulling out a car that has settled on a bridge or bottom is almost an art. In fact, in other cases it is enough to push it or take it in tow. Here, such actions can lead to damage to the components and parts located under the bottom. Having met such a blurred section of the road, you must first carefully examine it and, if necessary, prepare it for a safe crossing. When the track is too deep for a long distance, they try to keep it between the wheels. Hard and wide ridges are easy to drive, but soft and narrow ones are very difficult. In order not to move off the ridges into a deep rut, it is better when the wheels of one side are on the rut, and the other side is on the side of the road. In this position, it is much easier to keep the right direction, since the wheels running along the track require almost no steering.

* Cautions are undoubtedly helpful. But what to do when the car still sat on the ground? First of all, you need to get out of the car and look around. Depending on the reasons and specific road conditions, you should take necessary measures. In most cases, it is advisable to move the car back. If it doesn’t work out, you should try to raise it with a jack and remove the “extra” land. Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the installation of a jack, since the place for it is often inappropriate - mud or sand. A board, a flat stone, is usually placed under the heel of the jack house, but in such a way that the upper part of the jack is 0.15-0.20 m from the car doors, otherwise the jack will damage it when fully raised.

Only in one case can the jack be replaced by a tug without the risk of damaging the car, when the front wheels hit a ditch or pit. In this case, the end of the log or two poles connected by the letter X are substituted under the towing cable, tilting them towards the car. When the cable is pulled, the front end will rise and the vehicle will move forward.

* Last barrier on thorny path- water. Probably, there is no need to say that, "not knowing the ford, do not go into the water." And if you do climb, move slowly. Trouble can begin if water floods the breaker-distributor and the ignition coil, candles, or even worse, gets into the exhaust pipe. If the engine froze due to the fault of the distributor, candles or coil, they can be opened, turned out and wiped or blown with a jet compressed air from the pump. These operations are unpleasant to perform while standing in the water, but still a way out. An engine stopped in the water with a flooded exhaust pipe the muffler is useless. It is necessary to pull the car ashore and remove water from the pipe, driving onto a hillock.

* When overcoming serious water obstacles, remember that high speed by no means guarantees safe passage and, first of all, for the engine. Water may get into intake manifold, and there close to the cylinders. If there is a lot of it, water hammer is inevitable. Water, unlike air, is incompressible: the piston will hit the water from the entire stroke, as if it were a wall, and the pressure in the cylinder will exceed the norm several times.

Bent or broken connecting rods are the result of an unsuccessful crossing of a water barrier.

It happens that the engine (if the speed is low) can simply stop. Try starting it with a starter. If it does not work, turn out the candles and turn the crankshaft.

Water will exit the cylinders through the holes, and the engine can be started. If there is a knock in the block, then the connecting rods are damaged and the engine must be stopped immediately. If everything worked out, you are very lucky.

* After passing through the water, the level of which reaches brake drums be sure to dry the brakes. To do this, slightly pull the handbrake lever. Pay special attention to this operation.

* The situations considered, of course, do not give an idea of ​​\u200b\u200ball cases that are possible where the road is not well-maintained. As experience shows, knowledge, ingenuity and resourcefulness help to find a way out of any situation.

Of course, yes, bushcraft expert Igor is sure: a car, especially a modern one equipped with an automatic transmission, feels much better off-road than a fellow with "mechanics".

- Automatic transmission combined with modern electronic systems- such as anti-lock braking (ABS), hill descent assistance (HDC, DAC, DDC), rollover prevention (RSC), etc. - allows you to fully unlock the potential of the machine on the road. All these systems help to effectively drive a car, excluding the human factor.

Also, according to the expert, you should not be afraid to rock a car with automatic transmission if you do it right.

- When swinging, there is, of course, a load on the box, but it is not as big as it seems. Basically, it's a back and forth motion. Another thing is that during slipping, the speed of rotation of the wheels increases, and the "automatic" tries to change gear. It is frequent switching that ruins a box that does not cool properly. If we fix the transmission (for the most part automatic transmissions there are fixed gears or there is a manual mode), then nothing bad will happen.

A manual gearbox, according to Igor, has only two advantages: it allows you to firmly fix the gears and more efficiently brake the engine.

- A car with automatic transmission loses models with manual transmission when going downhill if it is not equipped with HDC. "Automatic" will not be able to brake the engine as effectively as mechanics. At the same time, the potential endurance of manual transmission is much lower due to the presence weak link- clutches. This applies not only cars, but also all large SUVs.

According to the off-road driving school instructor Land Rover, the advantages of automatic transmission are still greater.

- The most important thing is that we control the steering wheel with two hands and use both legs to control the car without being distracted by shifting. "Automatic" allows you to accurately dose the moment of transmission to the wheels, slightly slowing down and playing with gas and brakes. It is also possible to get out of the mud using the traction control method: by pressing the brake pedal, we bring the car to maximum torque, then abruptly release the pedal. Thus, the car receives sufficient momentum to move off. In the case of manual transmission, this option is excluded. In addition, the absence of a torque break in the automatic transmission allows you not to make jerks when driving and start very smoothly on slippery surfaces.

Well, if you're about to embark on an off-road adventure, here are five tips from a Land Rover Off-Road Driving School Instructor.

What to take with you?

1. chains. These off-road attributes are inexpensive - $ 100-150, but they can turn passenger car into a very passable unit at the level of a mid-range crossover.

2. Boards and jack. The chance to sit in a deep rut on the bottom when driving on a country or forest road is great. In this case, you need to raise the car with a jack and place boards under the wheels.

3. Take with you fuel twice as much as you need to complete the route if you have diesel car, and three times if gasoline.

4. Always have in the car tow rope and gloves. Digging with bare hands can seriously injure your fingers or drive foreign body under the nails, which is fraught with gangrene. medical care there is nowhere to wait in the forest, especially if you are stuck.

5. In sandy areas, if the car is slipping, it can be useful to halve the tire pressure, thereby increasing the contact area. But then do not forget to pump up the wheels to the pressure provided for by the instructions.

And never forget about such a trifle as an ordinary pump. As practice shows, a rare motorist carries this useful item in the trunk.