Rear brakes Hyundai Accent. Hyundai Accent Repair Manuals: Rear Wheel Brake Pad Replacement

The service life of the rear brake pads on a Hyundai Accent is not regulated by the manufacturer and they are usually replaced when obvious signs wear. The main symptoms of pad wear are: thickness friction linings less than acceptable, characteristic sound (grinding) during braking, friction linings fell off the base, deep grooves and chips appeared on the linings, oiling of the working surfaces of the linings occurred. The minimum allowable thickness of the friction linings of the rear brake pads is 1.5 mm.
On this car two types of brake drums are installed, which differ in size, what should be paid attention to Special attention when buying a new set of pads. Also, in case of wear, the rest of the rear parts should be replaced. brake mechanism: brake drums, cylinders, etc. To work, you will need a standard set of car enthusiast tools and a jack. The main difficulty of this procedure is to remove the stuck cast-iron brake drum.
Do not use gasoline diesel fuel or other mineral solvents for cleaning parts. The pads must be changed at the same time in the brake mechanisms of both rear wheels. After replacing the rear pads, do not forget to adjust the handbrake.

Attention! This video is not official instructions and manual for car repair.

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Replacing pads on a car

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Replacing the rear pads on the Accent is quite simple, but you need to know a few tricks and the sequence of work. On cars are placed in front disc brakes, and behind the drums. The latter have much lower efficiency, but high efficiency is not needed there. Rear brakes take on about 30% of the load during braking, and also work when the car is parked. But you still need to change the pads - for someone every 10 thousand kilometers, and for someone - every 100 thousand km. Everything is individual and depends on many parameters.

What spare parts are needed?

And now in more detail about how to replace the rear pads on the Hyundai Accent on your own. It will take a little time, but you will have to sweat, as it can be difficult to disassemble the knots. To begin with, it is worth mentioning the original spare parts that you need to buy:

1. Sangsin pads directly - kit with part number SA046.
2. Pad clearance adjuster numbers - for right side 5837025000 and for the left 5835025000.
3. Approach mechanisms - also two pieces, numbers 5836624000 and 5835624000 (right and left, respectively).
4. TRW repair kit, part number SFK358.

Tools needed for the job

In addition, when replacing the rear brake pads on the Accent, you will need the following tools:

1. Jack.
2. Head on "21".
3. Supports.
4. A set of keys.
5. Pliers.

Please note that it may be necessary to replace the drums - you need to make visual inspection their states. To save money, you can put original spare parts, and analogues - they are several times cheaper, but the quality is almost the same.

Dismantling pads

Be sure to remember the location of all springs when replacing the rear pads on the Accent, otherwise the mechanism will not work correctly.

1. Raise the car with a jack and put it on a support.
2. Loosen the wheel nuts.
3. Take off the drum. If this does not work, then you need to screw two bolts into the holes located on it.
4. Remove all springs with pliers.
5. Both pads have springs with washers, they keep the elements from moving. Push the washer in and gently turn it to remove the stud.
6. Now you can remove both pads. One is dismantled without problems, the handbrake cable is installed on the second.

To make the replacement of the rear pads on the Accent faster, it is recommended to loosen the handbrake cable. To do this, the decorative plastic covering the cable in the cabin is removed, after which the nut is loosened.

Installing new pads and adjusting the handbrake

Installation of new elements is carried out in the reverse order. It should be noted that the handbrake is adjusted automatically - just squeeze it several times.

What can be the nuances when replacing the rear pads on the "Accent"? If you look closely, there are quite a few:

1. Often a set of pads does not contain a spring, you have to buy them separately. In the first part of the article, the batch numbers of the products are indicated.
2. Also, the plates that make adjustments often fail. hand brake. Best to put new kit, otherwise there will inevitably be problems with setting up the mechanism.
3. Braking efficiency directly depends on the condition of the drums. If the development is large enough, it will be necessary to replace the elements and carry out their turning and balancing.

If your car has beautiful wheel disks then why spoil appearance drum brakes? It will be much better if you put disk. But in this case, you have to mount hydraulic drive handbrake. Thanks to such legal tuning, the safety of the car and its appearance are increased.

Replacing the rear pads Hyundai Accent usually required infrequently, so removing a soured drum can be difficult. If you notice that the braking efficiency has decreased, and the brake pedal goes deeper and deeper, then first of all, evaluate the thickness of the front pads. To do this, just remove the wheel. If everything is in order there, then you can start replacing the rear pads Hyundai Accent.

The first difficulty is the removal of cast iron brake drum Hyundai Accent. There are two types of drums on this car. In one case, the drum is made in one piece with wheel bearing, to remove it, you will need to unscrew hub nut. See photo below.

In the second case rear drums Accent separately, and the hub separately. Here it is necessary to remove only the drum.

For removing drums on Accent you will need to unscrew two screws, and in their place screw in powerful M8 bolts. Two bolts will help remove the drum from the hub. They must be carefully screwed in until they come into contact with the surface of the hub. By screwing the bolts evenly, the bolts will begin to push the drum away from the hub, thereby compressing the drum.

Before removing the drum, be sure to remove the car from the handbrake, brake the car. Do not depress the brake pedal after removing the brake drum as the pistons may be completely out of the cylinders.
The design of the rear brake mechanism Hyundai Accent is as follows -

Dismantling of the brake mechanism The accent is made as follows.

We clean and wash all parts of the brake mechanism in a solvent (it is forbidden to use gasoline and diesel fuel to clean the brake mechanisms).

• Using a screwdriver, remove the upper return spring.
• Remove the return spring in the same way.
• Prying with a screwdriver, disconnect from the regulator lever upper end its springs and remove the spring.
• We remove the spacer bar.
• Removing from the brake shield rear pad the same as the front.
• Remove the control lever.
• Remove spring washer and support post.
• While holding the support leg of the front shoe with reverse side brake shield, press the washer and turn it until the slot of the washer aligns with the shank of the rack and disconnect the tip of the cable from the drive lever parking brake.
• Before installing the pads, it is necessary to reduce the length of the spacer bar by screwing the adjusting nut until it stops.
• Install new pads in reverse order.
• When installing the brake drum, you should pay attention to the coincidence of the holes in the hub and the drum.
• After replacing the pads on both rear wheels and installation, press the brake pedal several times to set the pistons to the working position.
• We check the fluid level in the tank and, if necessary, bring it to normal.

In case of large wear of the inner surface of the drum, cracks or strong runout, the Hyundai Accent brake drum must be replaced with a new one. The standard thickness of a new rear pad lining should be 4.8 mm, the minimum thickness is 1.0 mm. The standard inner diameter of a new brake drum is 180 mm, the maximum is 182 mm. Non-cylindrical working surface of the brake drum must not exceed 0.15 mm, otherwise strong runout will occur.

DESIGN DESCRIPTION

Service brake system hydraulic, dual-circuit (with diagonal separation of circuits), with vacuum booster and sensor insufficient level fluid in the master tank brake cylinder. IN normal mode(when the system is working) both circuits are working. In case of failure (depressurization) of one of the circuits, the second one provides braking of the car, although with less efficiency. Some vehicles are equipped with an anti-lock braking system (ABS). brake pedal - hanging type equipped with a return spring. Above the pedal is a brake light switch; its contacts close when the pedal is pressed. The brake pedal free play should be 3-8 mm.

To reduce the effort on the brake pedal, a vacuum booster is used, which uses the vacuum in the intake manifold of a running engine. The vacuum booster is located between the pedal pusher and the main brake cylinder and is attached with four nuts to the front end shield in engine compartment. The vacuum booster is non-separable; in case of failure, it is replaced. The main brake cylinder is attached to the vacuum booster housing with two studs. A reservoir is installed on top of the cylinder, from which brake fluid enters the cylinder. The tank is marked with maximum and minimum liquid levels, and a signal device with a float is mounted in the tank, closing the contacts when the liquid level drops. When equipped car ABS two pipe fittings are screwed into the holes on the right side of the main brake cylinder, supplying fluid to the hydraulic

Czech ABS block, from which it is fed through the channels to the working cylinders.

On non-ABS vehicles, pressure regulators are installed on the brake master cylinder. They are designed to limit the increase in fluid pressure in the hydraulic drives of the rear wheels after reaching a certain pressure in the master brake cylinder. This limits the braking torques of the rear wheels and reduces the likelihood of their anticipatory blocking in relation to the front wheels when hard braking. Accurate testing of the pressure regulator is not possible without special equipment. Anti-lock braking system ensures stability of vehicle control during braking due to the elimination of wheel blocking. The ABS hydraulic unit, consisting of a modulator, a pump and a control unit, is attached to the bulkhead in the engine compartment under the vacuum brake booster. The ABS operates depending on the signals from the wheel speed sensors mounted on the wheels. When the vehicle is braked, the block ABS control determines the start of the wheel lock and opens the corresponding solenoid valve pressure relief modulator brake fluid in the channel. The valve opens and closes several times per second, so you can verify that the ABS is working by slightly shaking the brake pedal. If a malfunction occurs in ABS brake the system remains operational, but it is possible to block the wheels. The corresponding fault code is written to the memory of the control unit, which is read using special equipment in service center. Brake mechanism front wheel- disc, single-piston, with a floating caliper and an acoustic wear indicator on the inner pad. Standard Thickness brake disc should be 19.0 mm, the minimum is 17.0 mm. Maximum allowable end runoutbrake disc size is 0.05 mm. The lining thickness of a new brake shoe is 9.0 mm, the minimum is 2.0 mm. When the lining thickness of the inner pad is less than 2.0 mm, the wear indicator begins to squeak, warning the driver to replace the pads. The brake pads of the left and right wheels are replaced at the same time.

On a vehicle with ABS, a wheel speed sensor (A) is installed in the steering knuckle hole, and a ring gear (B) is pressed onto the drive outer joint housing. Brake mechanism rear wheel- drum, with a two-piston wheel cylinder and two brake shoes, with automatic adjustment of the gap between the shoes and the drum. The standard thickness of the lining of the shoe should be 4.8 mm, the minimum - 1.0 mm. The standard inner diameter of the brake drum is 180 mm, the maximum is 182 mm. The non-cylindricality of the working surface of the brake drum should not exceed 0.15 mm. The drive of the parking brake system is mechanical, cable, on the rear wheels. It consists of a lever, a rod with an adjusting nut and two cables. The rear ends of the cables are connected to the parking brake levers mounted on the rear shoes. The lever, fixed between the front seats on the floor tunnel, is equipped with a cable tension adjustment mechanism. The front tips of the cables are connected to the equalizer of the tension mechanism. The full stroke of the lever after adjustment should correspond to a rise of 6-7 teeth in the sector.

REPLACING THE BRAKE SHOE OF THE FRONT WHEELS

The brake pads of the front wheel mechanisms are non-_| it is necessary to replace only a set - four pieces. Replacing only one brake pad can cause the vehicle to pull to the side when braking.

If the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the “MAX” mark, we pump out part of the fluid from the reservoir with a medical syringe or a rubber bulb so that when the piston is sunk into the cylinder, the fluid does not leak out from under the reservoir cap. We remove the front wheel.

By inserting a screwdriver with a wide blade between the brake disc and the inner pad, push brake pads and push the piston into the cylinder.

Turn off the guide pin of the caliper with the “12” head ...

... and take out the finger.

We turn the caliper around the upper guide pin and tie the caliper with wire or cord to the front suspension spring.

We take out from the guide the outer ...

... and inner pads.

Remove the spring retainers.

We clean the parts of the brake mechanism from dirt and corrosion, especially seats brake pads in the caliper and in the pad guide.

Install pads in reverse order.

Both inner pads have acoustic wear indicators.

After replacing the pads on both front wheels, press the brake pedal several times to set the gaps between the pads and discs.

REPLACEMENT OF REAR WHEEL BRAKE SHOES

The brake pads of the rear wheel mechanisms must be replaced only at the same time - in a set of four pads. Replacing only one brake pad can cause the vehicle to pull to the side when braking.

If the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the “MAX” mark, we pump out part of the fluid from the reservoir with a medical syringe or a rubber bulb so that when the piston is sunk into the cylinder, the fluid does not leak out from under the reservoir cap.

The parking brake lever must be lowered to the stop (the car is disengaged * Remove the rear wheel.

The hung part of the car must be installed on a reliable factory-made stand.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screw securing the brake drum ...

... and remove the drum.

If you find it difficult to loosen the screw, you can use an impact screwdriver. If a high shoulder has formed on the drum surface as a result of wear, it may be difficult to remove the drum. In this case, it is necessary to loosen the parking brake cable (see "Removing the elements of the parking brake system", page 124). You can remove the brake drum...

... turning it evenly and striking with a hammer through a wooden block on the end of the drum.

Do not depress the brake pedal after removing the brake drum, as the pistons may be completely out of the cylinders.

We clean and wash in the solvent all parts of the brake mechanism.

Gasoline and diesel fuel must not be used to clean the brake mechanisms.

Prying with a screwdriver...

... remove the upper coupling spring.

Remove the return spring in the same way.

Prying with a screwdriver, disconnect the upper end of its spring from the regulator lever ...

... and remove the spring.

We remove the spacer bar.

We remove the rear pad from the brake shield in the same way as the front ...

Remove the control lever.

Holding the front pad support post on the reverse side of the brake shield, press the washer and turn it until the slot of the washer aligns with the post shank.

... and disconnect the tip of the cable from the parking brake lever.

Before installing the pads, it is necessary to reduce the length of the spacer bar by screwing the adjusting nut until it stops. Install new pads in reverse order. When installing the brake drum, pay attention to...

Remove spring washer...

...and a support stand.

... to match the holes in the hub and drum.

After replacing the pads on both rear wheels, press the brake pedal several times to set the pistons to the working position.

Remove the front brake pad.

We check the fluid level in the tank and, if necessary, bring it to normal.

REMOVING THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER

We unscrew the reservoir cap and use a rubber bulb or syringe to pump out the brake fluid from it.

We put a rag under the fittings of the tubes to collect the remnants of the flowing fluid.

With a “12” head with an extension, we unscrew the two nuts securing the master brake cylinder to the vacuum booster ...

Key "11" (for brake pipes) unscrew the two fittings of the brake pipes ...

... and take them away from the cylinder.

... and remove the cylinder.

To remove the tank, we hook it with a screwdriver from below, overcoming the resistance of the rubber connecting bushings ...

Pressing the latch...

... and remove the tank.

To replace the connecting sleeve...

... we disconnect the block of wires of the sensor of insufficient level of brake fluid.

... take it out of the brake cylinder housing.

Similarly, we take out the other connecting sleeve.

Install master cylinder in reverse order. After installation, we bleed the hydraulic brake drive system (see "Bleeding the hydraulic brake drive, replacing the brake fluid", p. 34).

ADJUSTING THE BRAKE PEDAL FREE STROKE

The brake pedal free play should be 3-8 mm.

If free play brake pedal is not correct, adjust it. To do this, in the cabin under the instrument panel (see photo below), disconnect the wire block 1 of the brake light switch 3 from the wiring harness block. We release the plastic wire holder 2. Using the “17” key, unscrew the lock nut 4 of the brake light switch.

By rotating the switch, we adjust its position relative to the bracket 5. Tighten the lock nut and again check the free play of the brake pedal.

FRONT WHEEL BRAKE HOSE REPLACEMENT

For convenience, remove the front wheel from the side of the replaced hose.

With a rubber bulb or a medical syringe, we pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir.

Using the “12” head, unscrew the bolt fitting of the brake hose tip.

Copper sealing washers are installed on both sides of the tip.

Prying with a screwdriver...

... remove the hose lock plate.

Using the “12” head, unscrew the hose holder mounting bolt ...

... and remove the hose.

Install the hose in the reverse order, avoiding twisting. We bleed the hydraulic brake drive system (see “Bleeding the hydraulic brake drive, replacing the brake fluid”, p. 34). We inspect the hose connections, if necessary, tighten the tube fitting and bolt fitting.

REMOVING THE FRONT WHEEL BRAKE

We remove the front wheel. Detach from caliper brake hose(See "Replacing the Front Wheel Brake Hose").

Turn off the caliper guide pin with the “12” head.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the brake disc ...

Using the “10” key, we unscrew the two bolts securing the cylinder to the brake shield.

Turn the caliper up and remove it from the guide pin.

If necessary, we replace the sealing ring and the anther of the piston of the working cylinder, the protective covers of the finger guides and the caliper pin. To remove the brake disc, remove the caliper from the steering knuckle and, without disconnecting the hose from it, hang the caliper on a wire to the suspension spring. We remove the brake pads (see "Replacing the brake pads of the front wheels", p. 117).

Using the “17” key, we unscrew the two bolts securing the guide pads ...

... and remove it.

If the screws are difficult to remove, you can use an impact screwdriver.

We install all the removed parts and assemblies in the reverse order.

REAR WHEEL BRAKE CYLINDER REPLACEMENT

We replace the working cylinder in the aftermath of the loss of mobility of its pistons, wear or damage to the cuffs of the cylinder (liquid leak from under the anther). We remove the brake pads of the rear wheel (see "Replacing the brake pads of the rear wheels", p. 118). With a rubber bulb or a medical syringe, we pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir.

We remove the cylinder.

... and take it off.

Using the “11” key (for brake pipes), we unscrew the fitting of the brake pipe.

The connection between the shield and the cylinder is sealed with a rubber ring.

Install the rear wheel brake cylinder in reverse order. We bleed the hydraulic brake drive system (see “Bleeding the hydraulic brake drive, replacing the brake fluid”, p. 34).

REAR WHEEL BRAKE HOSE REPLACEMENT

Remove the rear wheel from the side of the hose to be replaced. With a rubber bulb or a medical syringe, we pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir.

Using the “11” key (for brake pipes), we unscrew the fitting of the brake pipe.

Prying with a screwdriver...

... remove the spring clip.

Remove the rear end of the hose from the hole in the bracket.

Disconnect the front end of the hose in the same way.

Install the hose in the reverse order, avoiding twisting. We bleed the hydraulic drive system (see "Bleeding the hydraulic brake drive, replacing the brake fluid", p. 34). We inspect the hose connections, if necessary, tighten the tube fittings.

REPLACING WHEEL SPEED SENSORS

To replace the front wheel speed sensor, remove the fender liner (see "Removing the front fender liner", p. 142).

Pressing the latch...

... disconnect the speed sensor wiring block from the wiring harness block.

With a “10” head with an extension, unscrew the bolt securing the speed sensor to knuckle…

... and remove the sensor from the hole in the steering knuckle.

With the same tool, we unscrew the bolt that secures the bracket for the rubber holders of the sensor wires.

Remove from bracket slot shock absorber strut rubber holder for sensor wires.

Prying with a screwdriver, we bend the clamps of the wire holder bracket ...

... and remove the bracket.

Front wheel speed sensor

We install the sensor in the reverse order. To remove the rear wheel speed sensor, remove the wheel.

We remove the back rear seat with a bracket (see "Removing the rear seat", page 145).

Pads located behind the back of the rear seat: 1 - hatch pad luggage compartment; 2 - shock absorber pad; 3 - lower lining of the rear pillar

Pry off three fastening clips with a screwdriver, remove the trim 1. Remove the trim 2, removing the latches from the grooves of the trim 3.

... disconnect the sensor wiring block from the wiring harness block.

Using a screwdriver, we push the rubber cover of the wire towards the wheel arch.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the self-tapping screw bottom mount pads 3…

Using the “10” head, we unscrew the bolt securing the sensor to the rear suspension knuckle ...

... and, removing its latches from the grooves ...

... and remove the sensor from the hole in the fist.

... remove the overlay.

Pressing the latch...

With a “10” head with an extension, we unscrew the bolt securing the bracket for the rubber holders of the sensor wires.

With the same tool, we unscrew the bolt that secures the bracket of the rubber sensor wire holder located on the shock absorber strut.

Remove the speed sensor with wires.

We remove the brackets from the rubber holders.

Rear wheel speed sensor

We install the sensor in the reverse order.

REMOVING THE PARKING BRAKE COMPONENTS

We remove the lining of the floor tunnel (see "Removing the lining of the floor tunnel", p. 145). Move the parking brake lever to its lowest position. We disconnect the tip of the parking brake cable from the lever of the rear brake shoe (see "Replacing the brake pads of the rear wheels", p. 118).

We remove the brake shoe with the lever of the manual drive of the rear shoes.

Pry off with a screwdriver and remove the retainer securing the parking brake cable sheath to the brake shield.

Using the “12” head, unscrew one bolt securing the parking brake cable bracket to trailing arm pendants…

... and one bolt to the side member.

We release the cable from under the bracket on the bottom of the body.

In the cabin, with the “12” key, we unscrew the adjusting nut ...

... and release the tip of the cable, leading it through the slot of the equalizer.

We remove the rear seat cushion (see "Removing the rear seat", p. 145), disconnect the three plastic clips of the floor mat and fold back the mat.

With a head on “12”, we unscrew the two bolts of the bracket for fastening both parking brake cables to the floor.

We remove the tip of the cable sheath ...

...from a bracket in the floor...

... and output through the hole in the bottom of the body.

Similarly, we dismantle the other cable of the parking brake. To remove the parking brake lever, remove the lining of the floor tunnel (see "Removing the lining of the floor tunnel", p. 145).

Disconnect the wire harness limit switch parking brake lever.

With the “12” head, we unscrew the three bolts securing the lever to the floor ...

... and remove the lever. We assemble and install the elements of the parking brake system in the reverse order. We adjust the parking brake (see "Adjusting the parking brake", p. 35).