Tips for drivers in winter. Useful tips for motorists in winter

19.07.2019

Winter is definitely a harsh time of the year. And it affects all spheres of people's lives, including the operation of vehicles. One of important issues winter is a matter of operation and storage of the battery, as well as proper care behind him. Much faster in winter than in summer. But stalling on the road in winter due to a malfunction in the battery is much more dangerous than being in a similar situation in the summer. It is important to know not only how to use, but also how to store .

The conditions under which the battery is stored and used play a decisive role in In general, the battery is detrimental to frequent starts and short trips, problems in electrical equipment, untimely maintenance and inspection of batteries. Even a weak fastening has a negative impact on battery performance. The situation is exacerbated by the increasing load on batteries in winter due to the operation of heating and all kinds of heating systems that are added to systems such as parking lights, brake lights, headlights, turn signals, etc., which are operated constantly. So in winter, you should be much more careful in caring for and caring for the battery. It is important to know the rules and features of how to use the battery in winter.

Battery storage

Winter divides motorists into two groups. The first includes those who continue to operate their car after the onset of cold weather. And the second group consists of people whose cars spend the winter "on a joke" or even just on the street. If you belong to the second group of car owners and are going to close your iron friend in the garage until spring, then it is recommended to disconnect one of the battery terminals. Then it discharges very insignificantly and does not need to be recharged. But with the onset of severe frosts, in order for the battery to stand all winter without problems, it is better to remove it altogether and bring it into a warmer room, unless, of course, your car winters in a heated garage. How to save battery in winter:

Storage conditions are different for batteries dry-charged or filled with electrolyte. WITH dry-charged battery somehow easier. The most important thing here is that it be stored in a dry and well-ventilated area. It is harmful to direct sunlight. Their contact with the case can cause damage to the plastic. A dry-charged battery should be left for storage, making sure that it is tight and the plugs on the cans are tight. Make sure the battery is not damaged. Like, a battery filled with electrolyte must be stored in an upright position. It is impossible to drain the electrolyte during storage - you risk being left without a battery at all. After removing the battery filled with electrolyte, clean its case from contamination, especially from traces of electrolyte. When the electrolyte level in the banks drops, you need to add it to the set level. Top up with distilled water. Don't use acid or tap water for this, it's a death sentence for a battery. After topping up, a full one follows. Periodically during storage, recharge the battery so that it is not completely discharged.

There are situations when a motorist does not have the opportunity to check the safety of the battery until the onset of heat. In this case, boric acid, or rather its 5% solution, will help. Having done all the procedures, namely adding the electrolyte to the set level and charging the battery to the maximum, you need to drain the electrolyte solution within 15-20 minutes. The next step is to thoroughly rinse the battery with distilled water. You will need to rinse it twice, holding distilled water in the battery for about 20 minutes. And now you can pour a solution of boric acid into a clean battery. It remains only to wipe the battery and put it away for storage. It is worth remembering that with this method of storage, the temperature in the room should not fall below 0 ° C so that the solution does not freeze. The use of this method will completely eliminate the possibility of self-discharge of the battery during the entire period of storage. When you need to use the battery after the winter, you will need to carry out a few simple procedures to “wake up” it. Within 15-20 minutes, the boric acid solution is drained. Here the electrolyte is poured. Check after 40 minutes. If it has not changed, you can install the battery in the car. With a decrease in density, it will be necessary to bring it to the required level.

Battery operation in winter

A test, both for cars and for their electronics. The heart of the car's power supply is the battery. Its performance in winter deserves paramount attention. The following parameters must be checked regularly:

The alternator belt must be properly tensioned;
All electrical connections must be clean and securely connected;
The density of the electrolyte should correspond to the normal level. It is necessary to bring it to normal when lowering by charging the battery.

The battery itself must be kept clean. To do this, the terminals, if necessary, are cleaned with fine sandpaper. After that, a small layer of lithol should be applied to the terminals. Warming engine compartment to improve battery performance in harsh winter months. For insulation, you can use a special heat-insulating material. In winter, you will need to monitor the charge level and recharge the battery more often than in the warm season. Battery density decreases much faster in winter than in the warm season. When warming up the car, do not rush to turn on the headlights or heating, that is, leave the inclusion of additional energy-consuming devices and systems until the moment when the electrolyte in the battery warms up.

When choosing a battery for winter, you need to take into account the characteristics that are given by manufacturers. For example, for particularly harsh regions, the industry produces special batteries called "Titan", they also have an additional mark "Arctic". They provide stable work at temperatures below 50°. Compliance with these simple recommendations will extend the life of the battery. Ignoring the rules for battery operation usually leads to a car stopping in the most inopportune place and at the most inopportune time, and without visible reasons. Here only a repair shop can correct the situation.

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Ours invites you to separate the facts from the myths that are common among motorists. When winter comes, many car enthusiasts share various knowledge with each other. Unfortunately, many motorist tips have become overgrown with myths and rumors, with the result that many of us do not know if this is true or fiction. We decided to tell you about the ten most common myths associated with winter driving.

With the onset of winter time, we all begin to spend much more time on our own. Each of us must winter time pay more attention to the car. For example, to drive a car, you must first clear it of ice or snow. It is also worth making sure that the headlights of the car are clean, and that the wipers are able to cope with mud and snow.

There are many myths about how to take care of your car in the winter. Unfortunately, many tips on the contrary can harm your car, which will eventually result in significant expenses for your wallet.

The worst thing is that following a lot of advice, your car may break down at the most inopportune moment. For example, in hard frost, far from the city, where it will be difficult to find someone's help.

That is why we decided in our article to dispel many myths related to car maintenance in the winter. Thanks to you, you will be able to properly monitor the car in the winter.

1) Car windshield cleaning in winter

There is often advice on the net that supposedly helps you clean with boiling water. Never do this, as temperature changes can cause any glass to crack. In order to protect the glass from the formation of ice, it is better to use various de-icing products that are sold in car dealerships in the evening. Having processed special composition glass, you will protect them from freezing.

2) Tire pressure

Another common myth is that many people mistakenly believe that reducing tire pressure increases the traction of a car in snow or ice. In fact, on the contrary, it can worsen traction. We advise you to check your tire pressure every day before you set off. To do this, use a pressure gauge and . Keep the pressure in the tires at the maximum permitted level.

3) Open frozen windows

If you try to open side windows in a car, be aware that you may damage the electric window motor. Many on the Internet advise treating frozen windows with an anti-icing agent so that you can safely open them. side windows. But remember that no tool gives you a 100% guarantee that the windows will open immediately.

It is possible that the product will not melt the whole, and you will break the power windows. Even if in the evening you treat glass and rubber seals with a special anti-icing agent, in no case do not open the car windows as soon as you start the engine. It is best to do this at least 30 minutes after the machine has reached operating temperature.

4) Replace wiper blades

If the wiper blades of your car are worn out, then do not listen to anyone, but simply replace them with new ones. Many tips on the net will not help you. For example, motorists often advise treating old wipers with vinegar. But this will not help if the brushes have become unusable. For winter, choose high-quality silicone wide brushes, which are sold in many stores. Don't skimp on the cost of brushes. remember, that good wipers cannot be cheap.

5) Clear the car of snow

We all know that traffic police officers can fine us for dirty or dirty numbers. Before driving a car, make sure that the state license plates are easy to read. If the rooms are dirty or covered in snow, clean them. Do not listen to those people who tell you that in winter the traffic police do not fine drivers for snow covered car or dirty numbers. There are many examples of drivers being fined. Use a special scraper and a long brush to clean the machine.

6) Winter tires

Many mistakenly believe that they are only needed for snowy or icy roads. But actually Winter tires are intended for operation at negative temperatures. Unlike summer or all season tires, winter tires do not harden in the cold. In addition, the special tread of winter tires allows you to remove snow and water more efficiently. Thanks to this, the grip of winter tires in cold weather is much better.

7) Rear wheel drive

If you are the owner, then going on a trip outside the city or far from the city, take with you special chains that are installed on the wheels. You should install them, if necessary, on the drive wheels in order to increase traction. Many of us mistakenly believe that using chains on front-wheel drive wheels is not necessary. But in fact, no one has canceled the laws of physics. Whatever systems your car is equipped with, in case of bad weather conditions, chains on wheels can be the only salvation.

8) Don't dazzle oncoming drivers

Remember that driving with additional lighting does not always help in snowfalls. Of course, fog lights can be used in limited visibility on the road. But in normal conditions use fog lights may be redundant.

Remember that if it is snowing outside, when using fog lights, we can dazzle drivers who are moving in the opposite direction. Many on the net advise buying brighter bulbs for low beams or foglights. Do not do this, as brighter headlights in winter can cause an oncoming vehicle to move into a meeting.

9) Disconnect the battery

Many drivers, leaving the car at night in the cold, disconnect the battery terminal, believing that in this way they save battery power. But this is not necessarily the case. In fact, it can do more harm than good. For example, by disconnecting the battery terminal, and also reset all settings electronic systems vehicle(radio, climate control, etc.)

10) Avoid empty roads

Try not to drive in bad winter conditions empty, especially if you are traveling far from the city. Keep large ones so as not to be alone on a deserted road in severe frost or snowfall. This is necessary so that in case of problems there is someone to turn to for help.

Also you must have Charger to the phone, which during your trip should always be on charge. Thus, you will always stay in touch and in case of a breakdown of the car you can call for help. In addition, when traveling far from home, you should take a satellite navigator with you (or an appropriate application should be installed on your smartphone). With it, you will always determine your location and in the event of a car breakdown you will be able to tell the place where you need to drive up to help you.

If you are a novice car enthusiast and this is your first winter on wheels, read the article to the end. This will definitely come in handy.

The operation of a car in the cold season has its own characteristics: cold, how much, damp, etc. For modern cars, this is nothing, but it is still necessary to carry out a minimum set of preparatory measures.

Preparing your car for winter

Carry out additional protection of the body (anti-corrosion treatment and so on.). This will protect it from chemicals used by utilities on winter roads.
Clean the drain holes from leaves and dirt.
Before winter season recommended to make it easier to start the engine in cold weather.
If necessary replace(diagnosis of engine operation by spark plugs) and high voltage wires.
Carry out battery maintenance (check electrolyte density, top up with distilled water if necessary, charge).

Practical preparation tips car battery to winter in next video.

Fill in the "non-freeze" in the windshield washer reservoir.
Change your car to winter tires(what wheel size fits on Chevrolet Aveo). They are made from rubber that stays flexible in cold, frosty weather, which keeps good grip with pavement.

It is advisable to purchase and carry in the trunk in the winter

Scraper-brush for cleaning windows from frozen ice or snow.
Snow shovel (useful in case of heavy snowfalls).
Liquid for defrosting locks and windows.
Canister with fuel.
Matches or lighter.
Wires for "lighting" the battery.
Tow rope.
An additional set of warm clothes will not be superfluous.

What to do, if…

Frozen doors

Try to get into the car through other doors, maybe one of them will open and you will get inside the car and start the engine to warm up.

To protect doors from freezing - lubricate the seals silicone grease, glycerin, or sprinkle with baby powder (talc).

Frozen castles

Use lock defrosting liquid or regular vodka by introducing it into the lock with a syringe.

As an option, heat the key with a lighter, insert it into the keyhole and wait for the ice to melt.

When opening the doors, never use excessive force, do it carefully so as not to rip off the seals.

Car won't start

In winter, before starting the engine "warm up" the battery by turning it on for a few minutes high beam.

Start the engine in cold weather you can with a regular hair dryer. It is enough to direct a jet of hot air into air filter and the car will start.

To to avoid crystallization of water vapor in frost fuel tank , make sure it is at least 50% full.

If the car in the cold did not start after several attempts (3-5 times), then remove the battery and take it for 30 minutes in a warm room. Then try again.

Never leave your vehicle with a dead battery. This will lead to a decrease in the density of the electrolyte. As a result, the battery will freeze, break the lead plates, and become unusable.

In winter, on a car with automatic transmission along with the engine the box should also be warmed up. To do this, set the automatic transmission lever to position "D" and use the brake pedal to hold the car in place.

Frozen glass

Glasses will thaw faster if they are sprayed with defrost or any other alcohol-containing liquid.

Recipe for “non-freezing”: mix one liter of denatured alcohol (fuel for stoves, sold in household goods stores) and a glass of water (you can also add a couple of spoons detergent). This solution will not freeze down to -37°C.

To prevent the windshield brushes (wipers) from freezing, lubricate them with silicone grease.

When leaving the car during a snowfall, squeeze the wipers away from the glass (after driving Windshield warm and melted snow will freeze the wipers to the glass).

Frozen liquid in the windshield washer reservoir

If in the washer reservoir frozen water, then the car follows put in warm box . If this is not possible, then pour into the tank hot water. Then drain the thawed water (use a flexible tube). Instead of water, you can pour warm alcohol(vodka, alcohol, moonshine). To thaw hoses and nozzles, thoroughly warm up the engine(use a hair dryer to speed up the process).

After washing the car dry the interior by turning the oven on to maximum. In doing so, use different modes blowing, opening doors and windows.
When leaving the car for a long time, make sure that front wheels were in the "straight" position. This is necessary so that the fluid in the working cavity of the steering rack does not squeeze out the seal cuffs. Otherwise, when starting the engine, with the wheels turned to the side, the power steering pump will supply fluid inside the system at high pressure.
Also, leaving the car for a long time, do not use the handbrake. This can cause the brake pads to freeze.
Before getting out of the car, open the door for a minute or two to release warm air and reduce its moisture content. This will reduce the likelihood of door freezing, as well as frosting on the windows from inside the car.

How to "light up" from another car

We confine ourselves to the procedure that is optimal for starting any car and, moreover, will save the car from electrical shorts and other troubles.

1. We turn off the engine of the “donor” car.
2. If it is necessary (otherwise you will not fix the “crocodiles” in any way) - remove the terminals from the “donor” battery.
3. We connect one battery to another with thick wires: minus to minus, plus to plus. We make sure that the contact is good. Sometimes when starting the engine, the battery refuses to work and the alarm constantly turns on. This happens for the reason that the terminals on the battery oxidized during parking. Therefore, every time you expose the terminals, strip them.
4. We smoke in the truest sense of the word for 5 minutes. If the terminals from the “donor” battery are not removed, you can start the donor engine.
5. We turn off the donor engine if it was started. You need to “light up” only from a non-working car, ideally from an autonomous battery.
6. We start the "sick". If the problem was a dead battery, the engine will definitely start.
7. Let the "sick" work for 5-10 minutes. We do not touch the wires!
8. We muffle the "sick".
9. Remove the wires.
10. We start the "sick".
11. We start a "donor".

The battery is charged only while driving, when the engine speed exceeds 1000 rpm, and it takes quite a long time (20-40 minutes). Too short trips and standing idle in traffic jams leads to undercharging of the battery. In principle, you can recharge at idle, but then you need to turn off unnecessary consumers of electricity - light, air conditioning, heated mirrors and seats, music.

Recently, special chargers have appeared on store shelves that not only charge the battery, but also allow you to use this charger as a “donor” to start the engine. But if possible, it is better to charge the battery autonomously in the heat from a special device. Charging is of high quality and does not take too much time.

Features of a cold start of the engine

Let's start with common truths, namely: what conditions the engine needs in order for the cherished process in its cylinders to proceed safely. Here, power systems, ignition and a starter are equally important, capable of stirring up a frozen motor.

Nutrition The engine consists of: fuel (the most common is gasoline) and an oxidizing agent (oxygen in the air). If one or the other is too little (or too much), then combustion will be sluggish or not take place at all. Ideal for complete combustion gasoline, its weight ratio with air should be about 1:15. This is strictly monitored by the appropriate devices in any serviceable blowtorch, gasoline burner, stove, providing a transparent, bluish, hot flame.

The carburetor, which must prepare the gasoline-air mixture for different modes work, much more complicated than primus. But one of its tasks is the same - to keep the ratio of fuel and oxidizer within the "combustible" limits.

Once the engine is warm it's easy. A cold winter start is much more difficult. Frozen air in the diffusers of the carburetor cools even more, and droplets of gasoline, mixing with this jet, evaporate reluctantly. And for a flash, an optimal mixture is needed - a spark will not ignite a liquid drop of fuel. The matter is complicated by the fact that part of the gasoline vapors, nevertheless formed during carburetion, condenses again on the way to the cylinder, in contact with the cold collector, and the candle again has only one air - but, alas, it does not burn.

A way out of this difficult situation was found a long time ago - any carburetor is equipped with one or another starting device, sharply increasing the supply of gasoline so that the saturation of its vapor near the candle becomes sufficient for a flash. The simplest "semi-automatic" seems to be tricky for many motorists - although in fact any thoughtful student can study and debug it.

A much more complex problem arises in many modern foreign cars on which a temperature sensor is installed, which, at a certain value of the set minimum temperature, simply will not allow your engine to start. You can fight this disease different ways, up to the installation in the car of a special "board" with the output of the button on the panel. When you start the engine, you press the button, the circuit opens and the electronics responsible, including for limiting the engine start, stop working. The engine starts, you press the button, and the operation of the machine's electronics is restored again.

Next important system — ignition. Is the power of the spark between the electrodes so important, if even a weak charge successfully ignites! Indeed, in light conditions (summer, serviceable engine, normally working carburetor ...) a heavy-duty spark is not needed. Cold start conditions are another matter!

A powerful, biting spark, heating the droplets of gasoline, contributes to their ignition. And the weak is not capable of it. In addition, it is important that the spark between the electrodes jumps in time - at the end of the compression stroke, before the piston position in top dead point. This is the so-called ignition timing or ignition timing, for each engine its own, regulated.

The power of the spark often depends on simpler things as well. First of all, from the voltage in onboard network. And while the engine is not running - on the state of the battery.

We successively approached starter. Its task is to turn the engine, and quickly, so that the carburetor has enough vacuum, and the compression in the cylinders warms up each charge well. The slower the crankshaft turns, the harder it is to start the engine.

In winter, the starter is especially difficult, and even more so if the engine is thick summer oil. It is so difficult to pump through the lubrication system that it sometimes breaks oil pump, the filter housing is torn. The crankshaft barely rotates, the compression in the cylinders is slow and weak, the carburetor does not work well. But that's not all!

The load on the starter is maximum - and it strongly "plants" the battery - so much so that there may not be a spark. That is why during winter start-up, oil viscosity often plays the “first violin”. Were stingy, saved on changing the oil - troubles are guaranteed.

Now let's move from theory to practice. As can be concluded from all of the above, the most important thing is the overall readiness of the car for frost. "Correct", more liquid and therefore more suitable for winter oil, as well as good battery. With oil, everything is simple - pour good oil in trusted garages. Mineral or just old machine oil at minus 30 it will freeze for sure. Therefore, it is better to change the oil, preferably to "synthetic".

In the washer reservoir, you also need to have an anti-freeze, moreover, high-quality and not diluted. Water, if suddenly someone has left, freezing, will break the parts of the washer. Unfortunately, most of the "non-freezing" offered in the car markets freeze already at -15ºС. Knowing this fact, it is easier to drain all the fluid from the washer for the winter and thereby protect yourself from trouble. Agree: few of us use a washer in winter.

Battery. You can help him survive the night or even several days by warming up the car well “before going to bed” - it is best to drive for at least half an hour without using powerful electrical appliances - heating rear window and seats, servos, fancy music. There is another option to take the battery home, in heat. If you do not have a warm garage, and the parking will be long, say a week, then it is still worth removing the battery.

Even in normal warm conditions for a month, each battery needs to be charged, what can we say about cold weather, when the discharge process goes much faster. Do not forget to clean all the contacts before installing the battery, otherwise your car will either not start, or the alarm will start to “fail” at startup.

On cold mornings, the battery must be warmed up before starting by turning on the high beam for a few seconds. This measure is quite effective. Advice for those who use manual box gears: in order not to overload the battery, do not forget to press the clutch pedal during start-up. The neutral position of the lever in the box is not enough here: after all, when the pedal is released, the motor will have to rotate both the driven disk and the shafts in the box.

And even after the engine has started, it makes sense to hold your foot on the clutch for a while - if you release it abruptly, the car may stall and, according to the law of meanness, will no longer start. Do not turn the starter too long - it is better to let the battery rest, and then repeat the operation.

If, nevertheless, you are unable to start your iron horse, then in such cases we recall the existence of special devices that are popularly called - "light wires". They are designed to supply a large starting current to the terminals of a discharged battery from a donor car.

But only wires with a sufficiently large cross section are capable of transmitting this current. For example, to ensure the scrolling of a cold engine with a volume of about 1.6 liters, the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bsuch a wire must be at least 16 mm², which corresponds to a diameter of 4.5 mm.

Some firms produce wires in rubber insulation, which hardens at low temperatures and does not allow the wires to bend. The best samples have insulation made of soft material, most often it is silicone, which does not lose its properties in the cold.

The ends of the wires are usually terminated in powerful crocodile clips and differ in color: as a rule, the positive wire is red, the negative wire is black. The length of the wires rarely exceeds 2-3 meters, so cars should be placed as close to each other as possible. And at the same time, take into account the location of the batteries.

I want to warn you: many cars with a fairly complex electronic software launch systems - in other words, with computers - are not recommended to be launched in this way. Their rectifier bridges and computers may die in the process. What the instructions usually say quite clearly. Therefore, before you "light up" - look at the "manual"!

Having opened the hoods, first fix the tip of the “positive” wire to the “+” terminal of the suffering car and only after that connect the second clip of the same wire to the “+” terminal of the battery of the donor car. Clamps must be fastened tightly and securely. After that, connect the black wire in the same sequence.

After making sure that the wires are fixed correctly and firmly, wait a couple of minutes and turn on the ignition. Do not turn on the ignition and start the engine of the donor vehicle to avoid damage to its electronic systems. After starting the engine and the appearance of signs of its stable operation at speeds idle move wires can be disconnected: first "negative", then "positive".

Often the car will not start due to bad or dirty spark plugs. They need to be checked, cleaned of soot and, if necessary, changed.

In case of frost, it is sold in car dealerships a large number of special fuel additives - for example, "quick start", which are poured into the carburetor and fuel system for better engine starting.

You can’t use the starter, and it’s pointless to turn it for longer than 20 seconds. If after three such attempts the car did not come to life, you need to wait a few minutes, then repeat the series. When it was not possible to start the engine after three to five attempts and it does not show any hope for this, it is worth leaving the car alone until it warms up or calling a specialist to look for the cause of equipment sabotage.

In the cold, it is better not to put the car on the handbrake so that the pads do not freeze. It's easier to just put the car in gear. Owners diesel vehicles it is generally not recommended to use the car in severe cold if it spends the night on the street or in an unheated garage. There are few chances to start a diesel engine at minus 30.

In order not to dig with the frozen door locks, it is better to pour special “defrosters” into the “larvae” in advance. I don’t advise you to water the castle with boiling water - the water will cool down, freeze, and the next time you will be able to open the car only in the spring.

One of the controversial issues is whether it is worth warming up the car if, for example, it is in perfect working order and can drive immediately after starting and not stall. Definitely: it is worth starting off only after the interior heater begins to produce air that is noticeably warm for the hands. And, of course, do not step on the gas, as the instructions advise.

Remember: one problematic cold start engine in severe frost, according to the degree of damage caused to the car, it is equal to 300-500 km of run. And if the trip is not urgent, then it is better to postpone it for later.

How to start an engine in cold weather

There are quite a few reasons for an engine failure to start: these are flooded candles, and bad gasoline, and sensors that do not allow the engine to start when the temperature drops below a certain degree (usually to -25C °). But most often it happens that the entire chain of starting the engine simply froze.

This happens especially often when, after a thaw, the temperature drops sharply and the sensors and mechanisms are covered with an ice film, the mixture of the required composition is not formed, and the nozzles simply “pour” without spraying with a torch. To prevent this, it is advisable to warm up the car in such temperature fluctuations every two hours and smoothly enter your engine into operating mode at low temperatures Oh.

But since the problem of starting the engine in cold weather has arisen, we will not reinvent the wheel - the algorithm has long been invented and tested.

1. We check that all electrical appliances are turned off: fan, stove, headlights, radio, air conditioning, rear window heating.
2. Before trying to start, turn on the high or low beam for literally five to ten seconds. This is enough to "warm up" the battery.
3. We squeeze the clutch and put the gearshift lever in neutral ("for automatic machines" we recommend moving the selector from position P to position N) and turn on the ignition. As soon as the fuel pump works (it takes a few seconds), you can turn on the starter - but no more than 10-15 seconds.
4. An unsuccessful attempt can be repeated after one or two minutes. This pause is needed in order for the flooded candle wells gasoline has evaporated. If the car did not start even on the third attempt, then further raping the engine and draining the battery makes no sense. There are quite a few reasons for refusing to start, but the most reliable option solution to the problem: if it is possible to wait for warming, when the air temperature is not lower than -10 ° C or tow the car to a warm garage.
5. If the engine comes to life, do not rush to release the clutch. The masters advise doing this smoothly, observing the speed. You don’t need to “help” a sneezing engine with gas, you can fill in candles.

You can apply a few more extreme ways to start the engine in cold weather. For those who are not afraid of auto chemicals, aerosol "starting aids" will come in handy. The ethereal aerosol is injected into the air intake and facilitates the ignition of the mixture.

There is another radical remedy that is used in extreme cases. You need to put a tightly wet rag on the manifold and around the carburetor and slowly pour boiling water over the entire rag. Two liters of boiling water should be enough for this procedure.

If nothing helps at all, then it remains to call “specialists” for help, who will warm up your car with the help of heat guns or gas burners. In addition, they can recharge your battery. But not everyone can afford such a challenge, and if you have a cold start problem from time to time, you can worry in advance and buy yourself a heat gun or an infrared gas burner. Heat guns are more suitable for heating the car indoors and where electricity is available.

Gas infrared emitters are more economical than electric ones due to lower cost natural gas (average consumption 300 ml. per hour of work). They can be used in any room and in any frost. The only drawback is that gas at temperatures below -30 ºС can burn poorly.

Thermal infrared radiation penetrates the air almost unhindered. It becomes effective only when thermal rays hit solid bodies. The oil in the crankcase warms up better and safer than when using a blowtorch, which, in fact, just boils the oil. Compared to heat guns, there is no air movement, which means clouds of dust and debris.

The gas burner is installed under the crankcase of the car. The engine is covered from above with blankets and other warm rags. If it happens on the street, then you need to close the car from the bottom around the perimeter with cellophane or some other cover and exclude heat from blowing out the burner.

Warming up takes, as a rule, 15-30 (maximum) minutes. By the way, a gas burner will also come in handy for fishing both in winter in a tent and in autumn and summer on cold nights. You can also cook food on it. In all senses, a convenient and fairly inexpensive thing.

Konstantin Fadeev

RAMC specialists shared their "winter" secrets. For some, these are common truths, but for someone, especially novice motorists, it may come in handy. So in order.

How to extend tire life in cold weather? First of all, you need to monitor the pressure. Low wears out the lateral parts of the tread, high - central part wheel tread. Choose a smooth driving style, avoiding hard braking. Be sure to check the wheel balance when changing tires seasonally.

Dead battery is one of the common problems that drivers face in winter. Due to frost, the battery works with an increased load, and it requires a large current and more a long period engine start. Because of this, it fails faster, so before the onset of cold weather, it should be fully charged. But if, nevertheless, it happened that the battery is dead, and you need to go, you can use next tip. Before starting the engine, turn on the headlights for a few seconds to "wake up" the battery. A chemical process will begin in the battery banks, and the electrolyte will warm up a little. If the car does not start the first time, wait 1-2 minutes and repeat the procedure. Depress the clutch pedal when starting the engine. This will make it easier for the starter to start the engine.

With frozen locks doors will help to cope with a special defroster or special grease(WD-40) combined with lithium grease. Make it a rule after a long drive in the cold to always cool the car by opening all the doors for a few minutes so that the air temperature in the cabin is equal to the ambient temperature. This simple procedure will help prevent freezing of rubber door seals. And so that they do not crack from low temperatures, do not forget to lubricate the rubber bands with silicone grease.

Motorists using diesel fuel , they know that it is in the cold thickens. A special tool will help to cope with this -. It will not allow the fuel to freeze. Before you go to the gas station, add it to the tank and the problem will be solved. But at gasoline its subtleties in operation. Condensation can accumulate in the gas tank, which, in turn, does not have a very good effect on the operation of the engine and fuel system. To avoid this, a dehumidifier will help, which must be periodically added before refueling.

icy do not rush to tear off the glass. This can damage the rubber brush. Use a special glass gel or wait until the windshield warms up. Then it will be easier to clear the ice. By the way, in no case do not try to turn on the frozen wipers. The motor that drives them can fail.

If with the advent of cold weather nozzles and windshield washer motor stopped working, most likely, you simply forgot to fill the windshield washer tank in time instead of water with “anti-freeze” or you got a poor-quality one and froze. Most the best remedy melt the ice - put the car in a warm parking lot for a couple of hours. Vodka or alcohol will also work well with ice. But before pouring them into the washer reservoir, it is better to warm it up a little. Then the defrosting process will go faster.

In winter, it is advisable not to put the car on the handbrake ( parking brake). Otherwise, you risk getting frozen to rear discs brake pads . Although it is not difficult to solve such a problem. For example, douse the pads with alcohol-containing liquid. But this advice is acceptable only on the condition that the car disc brakes installed at the back. At drum brakes these recommendations do not work because the sticking area on the drum is too large. In no case should you try to break the pads with the help of towing: there is a possibility of damaging the elements of the brake system.

A rather simple accessory that would be nice to have in the trunk of every car. On city streets, it is unlikely to come in handy, but on a trip out of town it can be most welcome. Chains significantly increase the car's off-road patency, reduce drifts on slippery road at low speeds, help to get out of the snowdrifts. Rubber tires are softer, wear tires less and allow you to move at speeds up to 80 km / h. They very well save from snow porridge and ice on the road. But in difficult places, metal ones will help. But they are tougher, “eat up” rubber and limit the speed of a car to 20–40 km/h.

Anti-corrosion treatment of the body - good rust remover. In winter, roads are sprinkled with chemicals, which, getting into the microcracks of the body, corrode parts and paint. Therefore, do not be lazy and carry out a special treatment of the car before winter.

By the way, quite recently, Za Rulem.RF conducted a survey on how our readers prepare their car for winter. The most common answer was "I'm changing the wheels and washer for winter ones."