Oil change after engine overhaul. Proper engine break-in is the key to stable engine operation.

If you are the owner of the "eight" or "nine", sooner or later you will face the question of overhauling the engine. Surely you know that for any part of the motor after a major overhaul, whether it is boring cylinders, holes or grinding shafts, it takes time for the mates to run in. so-called. primary break-in, in most cases and for most automotive friction pairs, takes place during the first two to three thousand kilometers of run. About how to properly break in the engine, and let's talk.

But first, a logical question: why do you need an engine run-in after a major overhaul? It is clear that it must be performed when the car is new - the engine was made to “get used to it” (and not only it). But why run in the "engine" after the capital? We hope that in this article we will be able to answer this question (if you have one, of course).

A run of two to three thousand for a break-in is not final. Just from the moment you "passed" this distance, it becomes possible to evenly and smoothly increase the load on the engine. As a rule, the final running-in of parts occurs at a run of 10-15 thousand km. But it also depends on the quality of the parts themselves, and on how well the "capital" was produced. And only after you have passed this distance, you can demand from the engine everything that it is capable of - to squeeze out of it, as they say, all the “juices”.

When rubbing pairs are run in, increased heating always appears. That is why the running-in of the engine after repair (or the running-in of a new motor) is carried out at lower loads. The crankshaft speed should not exceed 60 percent of the maximum, while it is imperative to use fuels and lubricants recommended by the manufacturer.

If the engine is incorrectly run-in, its resource may not exceed 30 percent of the design capacity that the designers have laid down. But if you run the engine correctly, it will subsequently “thank you” with its long work without any major breakdowns, and you will drive many, many thousands of kilometers in your car.

If new or newly machined parts are enlarged, you will see a surface consisting of small bumps and depressions, the tips of which are quite sharp.

Due to the running-in with a reduced load on the mates, these microscopic irregularities are smoothed out. There is an opinion that well-made parts do not need to be run-in. Actually it is not. In the manufacture of parts, a cutting tool is used, which in any case leaves behind various microroughnesses. And the final duration of the break-in depends on what size they will be.

The run-in duration is also affected by the material from which the parts are made. For example, if a new chrome ring is already installed in a worn-in cylinder, the break-in period will increase significantly. Another wrong opinion is that during the break-in, you can fill in inexpensive and low-quality oil - they say, this will not affect the engine in any way. In fact, during the break-in, the parts work in an increased mode, since their surfaces are in contact with each other only at the tips of microscopic irregularities, which inevitably remain after machining.

As a result, the load that should “bear” on the entire contact surface falls only on the friction surface where these micro-bumps protrude. As a result, local heating increases, since increased friction occurs at the mating points. This is due to the fact that the “tubercles” are sharp on both sides, therefore, excessive friction appears. In addition, they interfere with normal heat dissipation to the mass of the part. If during this period the motor is given a load “to the fullest”, local heating can lead to the fact that the “tubercles” will melt and metal scoring will occur, which cannot be eliminated. Such scuffs lead to a significant reduction in engine life, and occur due to melting and welding of the "tubercles" together. As a result, the metal “breaks out” from both parts of the rubbing pair, moving into the gaps, which leads to additional destruction of the contacting parts. Often in such cases, the mates are wedged - either completely or partially.

That's why when you break in your engine, don't use cheap oils - they usually don't have EP additives. Cheap oil and excessive loads will do their dirty work - money spent on overhaul, will be thrown into the wind. Also, during the break-in, it is not recommended to use various resource-saving additives, since they increase the break-in time and can lead to the fact that the mating, not yet “formed” in the gap, can jam.

A small recommendation based on many years of engine break-in experience. It is slightly different from the advice given by the manufacturer. It differs because the manufacturer initially assumes that the engine parts have passed machining on modern factory equipment in special conditions. Unfortunately, in life, the repair technology may differ significantly from the factory conditions and is not followed. Even the presence of branded equipment does not guarantee that the overhaul will be carried out according to the manufacturer's technologies - there can be many reasons, including the low qualification of car service workers, lack of control over the performance of work, the use of equipment that does not comply with the technology, etc. As a result, the quality of parts after repair may differ somewhat from the desired result, and differ not for the better.

Therefore, at the very beginning of the break-in (that is, immediately after the engine was installed), we recommend that you “drive” it in idle modes a little longer than the manufacturers recommend. Given that the parts may not be quite well processed, this will serve the engine well. And only after you have "driven" in idle modes, begin to gradually increase the load and make the first exit. Such “soft” and sparing conditions at the very beginning will allow the “newborn” motor to quickly and less painfully adapt to subsequent loads. This running-in mode does not provide for the presence of special running-in stands or other expensive equipment. But, as practice has shown, this does not adversely affect the engine resource after overhaul.

After the motor is installed, the most crucial moment is its first start. That's it and let's start.

1. The battery must be charged to its full capacity. Otherwise, the battery may simply not "master" the first start from its tight rotation crankshaft. Remember also about the starter - it must be absolutely working and serviceable.

2. Fill in engine oil. Recall that you need to use only high-quality - depending on the time of year (conditions environment) and operating temperature range. Fill with oil up to the top mark. oil dipstick- remember that this is a thick liquid, and it will not immediately fall into the pan. Therefore, it is better to measure the right amount of oil in advance. When installing the oil filter, it must be dry. Many motorists are mistaken in believing that the filter must be filled with oil before installation. Because of this delusion, the motor will have to work in a “dry” mode at the most inopportune moment for this - during the first start. This “starvation soldering” mode occurs due to the air lock that the oil-soaked filter creates.

A little more detail: the oil pressure in the line does not appear at all because you soaked the filter with oil, but because the oil, draining from the filter element, ends up on the dry gears of the oil pump, which then “turns on” faster. It will be more effective if part of the oil that you have prepared for filling is forced into the line before starting the engine. This can be done through the threaded hole you will find in the pressure gauge. As a result, the oil will be at the interfaces even before you start the engine and the pump starts to work. It is not at all necessary to pour oil on the entire lubrication system, half can be left for the gas distribution mechanism, which you will find under the oil filler neck. In a garage, this can be done using an old tire inflation pump, after removing check valve and making the necessary threaded adapter for it.

If desired, you can use the body of a blowtorch. To do this, you need to unscrew the head from the lamp, screwing on the adapter hose instead, which must be made of oil-resistant rubber and have the desired threaded tip and intake tube. After that, pour oil into the lamp cylinder, into the hole oil filler neck insert the hose. Required pressure you can create either a tire pump, or use a compressor by preparing a plug with a thread and a tire valve, which is placed instead of a standard lamp pump. The same device can be used to fill oil in other places where it is quite difficult to get. For example, in the gearbox or in the final drive housing.

3. If the engine does not have an electric fuel pump (i.e. carburetor), fuel must be supplied to manual mode before the carburetor float chamber is full.

4. We cover the air damper, if it is without an automatic drive, depending on outdoor temperature air.

5. We start the engine with a starter, while we must control the oil pressure in the line, which should arise. To do this, use a pressure gauge or look at the indicators dashboard. In the case when in the first seconds after launching on Idling required pressure did not arise, we immediately turn off the engine, otherwise you cannot avoid the next overhaul. After turning off the engine, we are looking for the causes of the problem by carefully re-reading paragraph 2 of this article.

Attention! Be extremely careful and careful, as excess air can increase the volume of the gas tank. And this process is irreversible.

To drown the gas pedal to the floor with such problems is useless. Moreover, “throwing” is an excessively harmful business, because an increased load will arise at the junction points even without required oil parts will wear out quickly. If it is cold outside, the oil will “get” to the right places for a long time. It will be better if, during the cold period, before starting the engine, you warm up the oil by any handy method to operating temperature. And it will be even better if the engine itself has a positive temperature. As a result, the fuel will evaporate more intensively and the oil film will be less washed off the cylinder walls, which is especially needed at the initial stage of running in the CPG.

6. When the oil pressure has risen to the required value (3.5-4 kg / cm2), at idle we warm up the engine to the required nominal temperature - 85-93 degrees. While the engine is warming up, you need to constantly monitor not only the pressure and temperature, but also whether there are different kind leaks technical liquids. Such leaks can especially often occur at the initial stage of running-in.

We turn on the radiator fan, wait until it "works" and turn off the engine. As the engine starts to warm up, you should see a puff of blue smoke coming out vigorously from under the hood. If you've never experienced anything like this, this might be alarming. In fact, such a phenomenon is quite harmless - when the motor was assembled and installed, unnecessary oil was inevitably "brought" onto it. During a strong warm-up, this oil layer burns out. After a short time gray smoke should disappear on its own and never reappear.

As the coolant temperature begins to rise, the oil pressure should decrease as it becomes more fluid as it heats up. A drop in pressure is normal, just remember that it should not fall below allowable value. If the oil pressure after the engine is fully warmed up drops below acceptable level, this indicates that violations were made during assembly. For example, the oil pump does not work properly or the gaps in the mates are larger than allowed. It may also indicate that you have filled in cheap oil. Low quality. Or it's not seasonal oil.

Letting the engine cool down to the temperature of the coolant (30-40 degrees Celsius), we start it again. As a rule, 15-20 such cycles are needed, after which the engine can be run in at higher speeds.

7. Step by step, gradually raise the speed to 2000 rpm. This can be done as follows - the first three minutes - 1000 rpm. Four minutes - 1500 rpm. Five minutes - 2000 rpm. At the same time, we monitor the appearance of knocks and ensure that there are no various leaks. It must not be allowed to appear extraneous sounds. If they did appear, so as not to arise serious damage, the engine must be immediately turned off and start looking for a malfunction.

8. Next step - partial load, which implies running on the go. The car must not be loaded, and the speed in direct transmission should not exceed 60-70 km / h. Accelerated (fifth) gear, if it is in your model, it is better not to use it yet. For the engine, the first three hundred to five hundred kilometers are the most important, and it is natural if blue smoke comes out of the muffler at this time. This is especially true after new rings have been put into worn cylinders. If the idle speed is not stable, this is also quite normal - you will have to adjust the speed often. The exact same adjustment can be made when the car "runs" the first five hundred or a thousand kilometers.

9. After about 2500–3000 km, the motor “diverges”, therefore top speed can be increased to 80–90 km/h.

10. If you have passed this stage, you can consider that the initial break-in is over and you can proceed to normal, but still gentle operation, gradually increasing the load on the engine. When the mileage figure approaches 10-15 thousand km, the load can be increased as much as possible, but at the same time it is no longer necessary to give the “maximum speed” to the engine in order to run it in.

At the first run-in stage of the run (2500–3000 km), it is recommended to change the engine oil and filter 2-3 times. This must be done because at this stage of running in oil system wear products are contained most of all, and the filter system cannot always completely pass through itself the oil supplied by the pump.

Attention! A mistake that car owners often make is running the engine at low speeds when direct or overdrive is engaged. With such a "break-in" the engine does not receive enough oil, and the load is significant. To avoid unnecessary loads in not yet run-in mates, it is necessary to maintain the crankshaft speed, at which the motor promptly “responds” to the opening throttle valve in any of the transmissions. In this case, we can assume that the engine "breathes" freely, and the period of running-in of parts is quite successful.

Another extreme is when increased speed the crankshaft is driven in first and second gears. As a result of such an overload of the motor, the parts fail much faster, since the heating in local places of contact points in friction pairs is most intense due to the additional inertial loads that arise. During the break-in, various oil seals are also “lapped in”, the gaskets sag, due to which threaded connections weakened. Therefore, carefully monitor the temperature of the motor, and tighten loose fasteners in time.

Let's dwell on the main rules that must be observed when the engine is run in on the go.

1. Before driving, warm up in without fail motor on idling bringing it up to operating temperature.

2. When driving, observe the mode necessary for running in the engine, which is provided for a new car by the manufacturer. You will find the driving mode in a special instruction.

3. Try, especially at the initial stage of break-in, to avoid difficult road conditions.

4. During the break-in, you must not load the machine, and even more so, additionally use a trailer.

5. It is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature of the motor and auxiliary units that have been overhauled.

6. Don't commit long trips while the operating mode of the engine is still being established. This will not contribute to normal break-in. In addition, there is a high probability that some part (not necessarily in the engine) may fail - this is not excluded during break-in. Periodically change the operating modes of the motor - of course, change within acceptable limits.

7. Do not wait for a scheduled inspection to eliminate increased clearances in the valve drive and tighten loose drive belts.

8. After you have "passed" 2500-3000 km, pull up to the engine block cylinder head mount if a shrink (regular) gasket was installed in the motor.

If the engine is broken in correctly, you will be able to successfully operate your car for a long time, without wasting time, effort and extra money on downtime or unplanned repairs. Well, what resource the car engine will have depends only on your driving skills - accuracy, attentiveness and timely after-sales service. And, of course, the life of the engine depends on the quality of the parts installed in it - the better the newly installed components are made, the more likely it is that the engine will last you as long as possible.

P.S. A cool video in which the VAZ 21083 “breaks away” from the Mazda 3 MPS from the start (second run). The latter, by the way, has 260 “horses” under the hood. Why does it come off? Because the engine of the "eight" is correctly run-in 🙂

To restore the original characteristics power plant, it may be necessary to carry out a major overhaul, which involves the replacement individual elements, units and assemblies. After the implementation of such an event, it is not advisable to use vehicles in the usual mode until they have been run-in.

Running in the engine after overhaul is necessary to extend technical resource power unit and improve its performance. Ignoring the break-in rules will help reduce the functionality of the repaired machine by 25-30 percent, and sometimes by as much as 50%. But at right approach you can create large stock strength.

So what is this - a break-in?

This is nothing more than the correct operation of a newly repaired engine in a gentle mode. Running in the motor after a major overhaul is a mandatory measure, since new parts must adapt to rubbing surfaces.

At the first stage, the car must drive about 3000 km, and only then the load on the power plant can be gradually increased. Only after 10-15 thousand km. mileage, all parts are completely ground in During this period, provided that the oils recommended by the manufacturer are used during the break-in, and the loads are controlled, the possibility of scuffing and any melting on the replaced elements is leveled. When running in, the load on the power plant and crankshaft should be reduced to 60 percent.

Even if all the replaced parts are original, you still can’t do without a break-in. There are several reasons for this:

In the auto repair shop, there is no way to create factory conditions, and, accordingly, the build quality is lower;

The service life of parts that do not require replacement is different from the original;

New parts after processing usually do not fully comply necessary requirements.

The first start of the power unit after overhaul

It is very important to start the engine correctly before running in. Since this moment is very, very responsible, it is important that all nodes and systems of the reanimated car engine were working normally.

The battery flasks must be full, as their reserve for a heavy stroke crankshaft otherwise it may not be enough. You should also check the condition of the starter.

Oil must be filled to the highest level. But not to form air bag The oil filter must not be filled.

The float chamber must be filled with fuel. In the absence of an electric drive, air damper need to cover. If it is cold, then the engine oil must be properly warmed up and brought to motor block to an acceptable temperature.

After starting the unit with a starter, the pressure gauge should immediately display the pressure engine oil, which should be 3.5 - 4 kg / cm2. However, if this did not happen 3-4 seconds after the idle operation of the power plant, then the “engine” must be urgently turned off and proceed to find out and eliminate the cause that led to the malfunction.

If the pressure of engine oil in the "engine" of the car is normal, then it is up to 85-93? should warm up idle.

Then you need to start the radiator fan and after a few minutes of its operation, the engine must be turned off and wait until it cools down to 30-40 ?. After 15-20 single warm-ups, you can start running.

How to break in the vehicle engine after overhaul?

Before you break in the car on the go, you should break it in at medium idle:

- 1 thousand revolutions - 3-4 minutes;

1, 500 thousand revolutions - 3-4 minutes;

2 thousand revolutions - 5 minutes.

At the time of break-in with a slight load, the speed cannot be higher than 60-70 km. During the first 5 hundred km, a manifestation is likely unstable work unit at idle, which will require additional adjustment.

When the car reaches 3,000 km, the speed can be increased to 90 km/h. Its subsequent increase will require caution. It will be better to wait until the mileage reaches 10,000-15,000 km.

Change of oil

After 3 thousand km. run should change the oil and filter 2-3 times. All elements during this period are rubbed hard, and there is a possibility of the appearance of many microparticles.

Ideally machine oil should be updated after 500, a thousand and 2 thousand kilometers. Should only be filled quality product. After the break-in is completed, it is necessary to change the oil again and thoroughly flush the engine. Semi- and synthetic engine oils can now be used.

Very Important Cautions

Some undesirable conditions can create new problems for the motorist. Therefore, it is not desirable:

- drive an unheated car;

Increase engine speed to 2 thousand rpm;

Overload a car and hitch a trailer;

Abruptly change the speed of movement;

Long ride in one engine mode.

The car owner must remember that overhaul will only be useful if the run-in is carried out correctly.

Many car enthusiasts are well aware that after purchasing a new car or overhaul, the engine must be properly run in. We note right away that a well-executed running-in allows by 15-20% to increase its throttle response and efficiency.

There are several types of break-in, among which the most common are "cold" and "hot". In the first case, an electric motor is connected to the engine, which rotates the unit without starting it. This is a cold run. As for the second type, the engine is run in right on the car, that is, in motion.

As a rule, a major overhaul of the motor in many services does not involve cold running, since not all service stations have special stands for carrying out this procedure. This means that the car owner himself will have to run the power unit. To do this, you need to know how to break in the engine after a major overhaul.

Features of the correct running-in of the motor

Let's start with the fact that you should not confuse the concepts of overhaul and engine overhaul. Bulkheading involves only certain narrow operations (eg valves, gaskets, etc.).

A major overhaul means that complete disassembly, washing, troubleshooting and replacement of all worn-out elements, as well as adjustment to factory parameters. The list of operations usually includes replacing pistons and piston rings, installing new ones, and much more.

Such repairs are expensive and are carried out exclusively by specialized specialists. As a result, the owner receives a completely restored engine, which approaches the new unit in most characteristics.

It becomes clear that both in the case of new and “overhauled” internal combustion engines, the rules for running in will be very similar. The fact is that the installation of new, as well as restored parts after grinding and surface treatment, also requires mandatory lapping of all elements for normal and well-coordinated operation of the unit under loads.

How much to break in the engine after overhaul and how to do it

So, the first 3 thousand km can be considered the most important. During this period, especially in the first thousand, it is necessary to observe the optimal driving mode for the motor, that is, careful operation with gentle loads is expected. General rules the following:

• driving at high or too low speeds is prohibited;
• not allowed to drive constant speed and the same turnover
• refuse to carry goods or tow a trailer;
• you can not use the engine braking technique, practice sudden accelerations and stops;

In other words, during the break-in, it is necessary to exclude heavy operating conditions for the internal combustion engine, the loads on the unit should be moderate, increase gradually. Also during this period it is very undesirable to let the engine idle for a long time (except for warming up), since XX is considered heavy regime ICE work.

Now let's take a closer look at the engine break-in process after a major overhaul. First of all, you need to understand that after a major overhaul, the motor needs all the parts and assemblies to get used to each other well.

If we talk about completely restored internal combustion engines, then the work usually affects, in a complex. This means that you need to run in such a unit for at least 3 thousand km. If the repair affected exclusively the timing (replacement, etc.), then 1 thousand km is enough. Let's focus on the more common first option.

1. Before the trip, the engine needs to be warmed up a little at idle, after which the unit is heated to operating temperature in motion.
2. It is optimal to plan the route in advance so that the road is flat (without frequent ups and downs). It is also desirable that only the driver is in the car.
3. Do not allow while driving sharp accelerations and braking, jerking, and also prohibited.
4. It is recommended not to accelerate more than 60 km / h, switch to overdrive and raise the crankshaft speed above 2.5 thousand rpm.
5. You should also avoid driving in tightness, constant movement on low revs(1000-1500 rpm).
6. It should not be allowed to move with the same load on the motor. Otherwise, you do not need to drive at a constant speed in one gear all the time. It is optimal to smoothly dose the loads, periodically slowing down and accelerating, however, it is important to choose the right gear so that the unit operates within the average speed.

In simple words, this approach allows the piston rings to “settle” in the piston grooves, the mirror in the cylinders gradually begins to “fill up”, etc. The fact is that even the most thorough grinding does not allow you to perfectly smooth out all the bumps that are leveled by running.

We also add that the generally accepted figure is 3 thousand km. is minimal. It should be remembered that the complete grinding of all parts and assemblies on many internal combustion engines occurs by 8-10 thousand km. run. It turns out that throughout this period it is also desirable to adhere to the break-in regime, although not so strictly. Only at the end of the specified segment, the engine can be loaded, gradually and smoothly raising the load from medium to high and then maximum.

Oil change after engine overhaul

It should be understood that the obligatory result of grinding in parts (especially in the first hundreds of kilometers) in the engine is metal chips. These shavings enter the engine oil and accumulate in the oil filter. It is quite obvious that this chip must be removed from the internal combustion engine.

This means that you need to use a material that is recommended by the engine manufacturer. The lubricant must meet all API and ACE codes, requirements and approvals, and be suitable for SAE viscosity taking into account seasonality and other regional features.

You also need to take into account separately that after boring the cylinder block into repair dimensions for repair pistons, in some cases, experts recommend using a more viscous oil compared to that which is poured into a similar new engine.

The information below will be useful to those who do their own engine overhaul or are directly involved in this process.

• Before the first start and during break-in, special attention should be paid to the condition. Please note that it is most difficult to crank the crankshaft during the first start, so the battery must be.
• Some precautions should be taken when filling oil and installing an oil filter before the first start. The main task is to exclude the formation of air pockets so that at the time of start-up the unit does not experience.
• Grease and other fluids must be filled. The fact is that exceeding the recommended volume can lead to leaks and other malfunctions.
• After the first start, the oil pressure should return to normal in a few seconds during idle operation. It is forbidden to gas if. If the oil pressure at idle is low, the power unit must be turned off immediately.
• Then it restarts. If the situation does not change, then a malfunction is obvious. Any problems with oil supply, air locks, incorrect operation oil pump and other reasons may lead to the need to re-repair the internal combustion engine.
• In the event that the lubricant pressure at idle is normal, you can warm up the engine. As the temperature rises lubricant liquefies. At the same time, it should not fall below 0.4-0.8 kg/cm2.
• While the engine is warming up, you need to carefully inspect the power unit for oil leaks and other technical fluids. If leakage is noticeable, the engine is immediately turned off, after which the problem should be immediately localized and eliminated.
• If the pressure in the lubrication system is normal, the unit is dry and runs smoothly, then it is also recommended to carefully No extraneous noise and there should be no noise.

normal and stable ICE operation indicates that you can start running the engine under load. Take a short test drive while observing the oil pressure light in the lubrication system and internal combustion engine temperature on the instrument panel. After 2-3 km. stop the vehicle and inspect the engine again for fluid leaks.

Then the power unit should be turned off, wait about 15 minutes and check the engine oil level. The problem is that it can fall a little. This will require topping up with lubricant. You need to add oil so that the level is exactly in the middle between the "min" and "max" marks.

Stable operation of the engine and all its systems will indicate that the engine, after overhaul, is ready for further break-in. For getting best results and extending the life of the motor, you must adhere to the break-in regimes and follow the recommendations indicated above.

Overhaul of the engine violates the established unity of the "weary" elements. Boring of the cylinder block and installation of new elements piston group change the performance of the vehicle. Often, the power is reduced by almost half of that specified by the designers.

In order to restore the original characteristics, it is necessary for the power plant to go through a break-in mode. Such an engine break-in after overhaul is usually performed for a set operating time or mileage.

On average, engine break-in modern cars ranges from 2 to 3 thousand kilometers. Full grinding does not occur during such a period, but it becomes possible to operate the machine in more aggressive modes, with increased load.

The car reaches its operating parameters by 10-15 thousand kilometers.

When the engine is run-in after a major overhaul, the heating of the rubbing elements increases during grinding. In this regard, power loads on the motor are undesirable, and it is recommended not to raise the speed above 60% of their maximum level during standard operation.

The power plant, after an incorrect break-in, can lose up to 70% of the calculated parameter in power.

At correct operation auto all settings quickly return to scheduled.

Purpose of car break-in

The machined surface of the engine cylinders and newly installed repair units has protrusions and depressions, sometimes pointed traces from the work of the cutter, which were not removed by honing. The task of running-in is to smooth out such defects. Due to this, friction is reduced and the load on all operating units is reduced.

Engine assembly for break-in

The opinion that running in a new engine due to the installation of new components in the motor does not make sense is erroneous.

Each new item has residual microroughnesses, which will be removed during the lapping process. The time required for the entire process depends on the size of such irregularities. After complete grinding, all elements: cylinders, piston rings, the pistons receive a new surface finish on the contacting planes.

There are rules under which the process will lead to the desired results:

1. The oil used during break-in must be on the list recommended by the manufacturer.
2. The oil supply must be carried out no later than 5 seconds after the engine is started in all the necessary components in order to avoid dry friction.
3. When the engine is idling, the oil pressure in the system should be in the range from 0.5 to 1 atmosphere.
4. It is necessary to check the sensors of the measuring equipment for operability.

Before the break-in process, a little preliminary work is also required:

1. The intercooler is flushed and purged, if necessary.
2. changing air filter or oil in an oil bath.
3. Oil change and new oil filters installed.
4. Fuel filters are changed.
5. The coolant level and the presence of fuel in the tank are checked.
6. Adjustment in progress fuel pump and operation of nozzles on the recommendation of the manufacturer.
7. Air is removed from the fuel system.

Preparation for the first start after repair

The crucial moment after assembling the repaired motor is its first start. If this is done ineptly, then sometimes piston rings can even break. The battery must be fully charged for the first start. The starter must be in good working order.

Wrong car break-in

Unfinished parts will take a lot of power due to the increase in frictional forces between unprocessed nodes.

We fill in a proven company. Oil consumption during engine break-in can be approximately 1 liter for the first 2-3 thousand runs. This option is allowed by experts.

When pouring oil, you need to know that it is not immediately distributed to all nodes. Therefore, you can measure the required volume, so as not to be mistaken, and pour everything into the engine. Oil filter it is not recommended to wet in advance, since such a process does not contribute to the rapid distribution of liquid throughout the system. Rather, on the contrary, it forms airlock degrading the performance of the motor.

It would be preferable to have a forced oil supply through the hole in which the pressure sensor is mounted. At home, you can use a tire pump for this operation by removing the check valve from it and mounting a threaded adapter on the end of the hoses.

Adding oil during break-in

When there is no manual pumping of fuel on the pump, we perform the established sequence of actions: we tightly close the neck fuel tank, remove the inlet hose from the pump, pump a little air into the fuel system. After that, quickly return the hose to the pump fitting and connect them.

You need to know that excessive pressure in fuel system can permanently inflate the tank of the car.

Due to pressure equalization, some fuel will be poured into the pump. Set the air damper to the desired position. And getting ready to start the engine.

The first start of the engine for running in

Starting the rotation of the starter, you need to make sure that there is oil pressure in the line. To do this, you need to connect a pressure gauge or use the indicator tips on the panel.

First launch after overhaul

It is urgent to turn off the engine if there is no pressure in the first three or four seconds.

You will need to add oil again to the required level.

When the oil pressure is established at operating parameters of the order of 3-4 kg / cm 2, it is necessary to warm up the engine at idle (700-800 rpm). The temperature should be set at 83-93 degrees. At this time of running-in, you need to carefully consider the appearance of various incomprehensible noises, visible leaks that may appear at the initial stage.

Slight smoke under the hood is normal for a car after a major overhaul.

This oil, which has fallen on the outer part of the engine, burns out a little and smokes after the temperature of the power plant rises.

An increase in coolant temperature usually goes along with a decrease in oil pressure.. The oil pressure level should not fall below 0.4-0.8 kg / cm 2. It must be understood that a complete drop in oil indicates errors made during engine assembly.

Running in

After a short break-in at idle, the engine is turned off. It should be left alone until the temperature drops to 30-40 degrees. Then start again, wait and turn off again. Approximately 15-20 such pre-running cycles are carried out.

Gentle driving mode

After that, you can gradually increase the speed:

• 3 min - 1000 rpm;
• 4 min - 1500 rpm;
• 5 min - 2000 rpm.

All this time we monitor noise and leaks.

After an idle break-in, this procedure can be carried out with a small load on the go.

When driving, do not exceed speed mode more than 60-70 km/h. For the first 300 km, smoke may appear from exhaust pipe especially when installing new rings. The idle speed setting needs to be adjusted regularly.

After a break-in regime of 3 thousand km, the speed can be increased to 90 km / h. At this point, the initial stage of running-in can be considered completed. But up to 10-15 thousand km, it is advisable not to heavily overload the car with aggressive modes.

When you buy new car in the cabin, immediately perform its full run-in. Each manufacturer has certain recommendations for performing this procedure, therefore, it is necessary to comply with these requirements and adhere to the rules as clearly as possible. Only after proper break-in will the engine be able to produce the necessary power, will not consume excessive amounts of fuel and will behave as the driver needs. But the break-in is not only carried out after purchase new car, but also after performing certain repairs in the car.

For example, new tires definitely need a break-in. But the most important process, after which a long break-in is necessary, is the overhaul of the power unit. After the overhaul of the engine, you need to perform exactly the same procedure as when running in a new car. All parts installed in the engine must be worn in and find their place before they are heavily loaded.

The main tasks of the engine break-in after the overhaul

High-quality overhaul of the power unit involves the replacement various parts engine. Basically, in the production of this process, elements of the piston group are subject to exchange. Often the need for overhaul is due to the fact that the cylinder block has worn out, and boring is necessary to restore it. This also requires the installation of new pistons of increased diameter.

Such procedures cause completely new parts to be under the hood of your old car. Even if the parts for the overhaul were taken from disassembly and were used, they need to be run in to give them the shape of a single mechanism. During break-in, many important processes are performed that are necessary for the engine:

• lapping each new installed part, search right place and adjustment of the engine mechanism;
• identification of different possible problems and problems, as well as errors in the performance of repairs;
• elimination of any low-quality moments in the operation of the power unit and peripheral equipment;
• setup and adjustment computer system power unit control, firmware in the required modes;
• search and elimination of other vehicle problems that are associated with a change in engine power;
• full understanding by the driver of all the capabilities of the power unit after the repair work.

An important task of the break-in is getting used to the new car. After all, after the overhaul, the engine power changes, its volume often changes and traction characteristics. Please note that the engine after the overhaul is no longer as reliable as before it was completed. This indicates that you need to be more careful with the machine, to be wary of aggressive operation.

After the overhaul, you need to give some time to grind in parts and mechanisms, so you should give up aggression while driving, ensure calm driving modes. With the help of such simple rules you can get quality car, which will serve a lot of time and will pass more than one tens of thousands of kilometers after a major overhaul.

How to break in a car after a major overhaul

The recommendations of experts in this regard differ. There is a set mandatory requirements, but it is quite simple. The main thing in this task is to ensure a smooth travel regime. Also, many recommend operating the car daily until the break-in is completed. The process continues for 500-1000 kilometers.

Running in an engine after a major overhaul is faster than commissioning a new unit. Taking into account the individuality of the overhaul for each engine, the running-in will have individual features. Among the most important characteristics running-in, the following important features can be distinguished:

• driving a car during a break-in is only in urban areas;
• aggressive revving should be avoided;
• the tachometer needle should not exceed 4000 rpm;
• the speed of the car should not be raised above 80 kilometers per hour;
• pedal to the floor - forbidden reception during break-in - everything must be done smoothly;
• slow acceleration and smooth braking- the main tasks in the first hundreds of kilometers;
• for any questions, you should go to the service station and find out the problems that have arisen with the master.

Running in exists not only to get used to all the parts of the power unit. This process is also important psychologically. The driver first needs to get to know his car well, get more information about its capabilities, and only then use all the new features of the machine that appeared after the overhaul.

Many car owners choose not to break in, only doing a few hours of careful driving after a major overhaul. Therefore, it is very difficult to give an unambiguous answer about the benefits and necessity of this process. However, most experts recommend a break-in after every major change to your car. Watch the video for advice on first start-up and engine break-in domestic car after overhaul:

Summing up

If you decide to overhaul the engine, or such a need has come by itself, do not forget about this important process putting the machine into operation, as a running-in. With this simple process, you can easily solve a lot of problems and get a complete picture of the capabilities of your new engine.

Do not neglect this process, because running in will allow the equipment to find its working position, and you will understand all the subtleties of the engine. Also ask for break-in recommendations from the master performing repair work with your car. Often a specialist will be able to give more specific advice. Have you ever run in a car after a major overhaul?