As a rule, often the cause of automatic transmission breakdowns is their illiterate maintenance and use. After starting the engine, in order for the automatic transmission to take on a working state, it is necessary to wait about a minute before starting to move. So let's move on to the topic of this article: driving with automatic transmission .
Automatic transmission control
P range (Park) - parking mode.
This mode is selected when the machine is parked for a long time. In this position, the controls are disabled in the box, the output shaft is blocked, as a result, the movement of the machine is impossible (the drive wheels are blocked, the blocking is not associated with the parking brake and is located inside the box itself). Starting the engine in this mode is allowed.
Do I need to use the parking brake while parking? On flat areas, subject to serviceability, blocking the output shaft of the box for reliable fixation is quite enough. When stopping on a slope, it is advisable to use the parking brake. In this case, first you need to pull the handbrake, and only then put the gearshift lever in P mode. In this way, you remove additional load from the mechanism for blocking the output shaft of the automatic transmission.
Range N (Neutral) - neutral mode.
In this mode, controls are disabled. At the same time, with the output shaft blocking mechanism turned off, the car can move freely. Starting the engine in this mode is also allowed. N mode is used when towing a car for short distances, as well as for short stops.Sometimes some drivers have a question:
Do I need to translate the automatic (automatic transmission) into N at a traffic light?
It makes sense to transfer the automatic transmission to neutral mode only during long stops in traffic jams in hot weather, in order to avoid overheating of the automatic transmission itself. In other cases, this is not necessary at all.
Range R (Reverse) - reverse mode.
An attempt to turn on the R mode while moving forward will inevitably lead to a breakdown of the automatic gearbox and other transmission elements (on vehicles that do not have a corresponding lock in the transmissions, it is strictly contraindicated to turn on the R mode until it comes to a complete stop). It is also impossible to start the engine if the gear lever is in this position.
Four-speed automatic transmissions for forward movement have four modes: D, 3, 2 and 1 (L). It should be noted here that starting the engine is not possible if one of the listed modes is enabled.
Range D (Drive) - the main mode for moving forward.
This mode performs automatic sequential gear shifting (in this mode, all gears are usually involved, with the exception of upshifts). This mode is recommended under normal driving conditions.
Range 3(Number 3 on some types of automatic transmissions) - the first three gears are engaged while driving. This mode is active, it is great for urban traffic, it turns off when the ignition is turned off. Especially at a high speed of the automatic gearbox, it will not work to save fuel, this mode does not allow the torque converter clutch to repeatedly lock-unlock in conditions of torn city driving (no more than 80 km.h.), It is also partially blocked by switching to higher gears. Most suitable for driving when frequent stops are inevitable and for driving on roads full of descents and ascents. Engine braking is possible in this mode.
Range 2(Number 2 on automatic transmission) - in this mode, only second and first gears are allowed. Most suitable for use in mountain winding roads. It is forbidden to switch to fourth and third gear.
Range 1(L or Low) - low gear. In this mode, movement is allowed only in first gear. The traction capabilities of the engine in this range are realized to the maximum, since the torque transmitted to the wheels only in first gear is maximum. Particularly effective engine braking in this mode. Driving on steep descents and ascents must be carried out in first gear.
Overdrive (O/D)
On some automatic transmissions, a mode is set in which automatic upshifting is possible. O/D button (Overdrive) used to connect this automatic transmission mode. Its recessed position when the mode (Drive) is on allows you to switch to a higher gear. If you release this button, then switching to the last gear will again become impossible. The O/D OFF indicator indicates the status of the control system. If the indicator is on, then the use of the Overdrive mode is impossible, otherwise it is possible.
It is recommended to use overdrive mainly on the highway for a more economical and measured movement. Interestingly, some four-speed automatic transmissions (for example, (toyota) aisin 241e) can disable 4th gear with a gear ratio of 1, which is not an overdrive either!
One of the differences between the automatic gearbox and the mechanics is the inability to produce engine braking in each mode. In overrunning clutches, in modes that do not allow engine braking, the transmission slips and the car moves “coasting”. And when driver position 1 is selected, engine braking is activated from first gear. In the first gear in position D, such braking is not possible.
How to start the movement of a car with automatic transmission?
As a rule, often the cause of automatic transmission breakdowns is their illiterate maintenance and use. After starting the engine, so that the automatic shift boxthe gear has taken on a working state, before starting to move, you must wait about a minute. Before starting to move without pressing the throttle pedal, it is necessary to depress and hold the brake pedal while putting the gearshift lever in D or R mode. After waiting for a slight push, you can start moving by releasing the brake pedal and stepping on the accelerator pedal with your foot. Dynamic driving for some time after the start of movement should be avoided so that the oil in all components and assemblies reaches its operating temperature. Before starting to move, for more efficient warming up of the automatic transmission, the gearshift control lever handle must be moved to different positions, lingering in each of them for some time. Then, turning on one of the driving modes and pressing the brake, hold the car in place for a couple of minutes, the engine should be running at this timein idle mode. At low ambient temperatures in position R, it is unacceptable to start moving without fully warming up the automatic gearbox, because this (due to the high viscosity of the fluid in the transmission) can damage the planetary mechanism.
automatic transmission how to use video
Towing a car with automatic transmission
A faulty car is towed in N mode, but do not forget that it is possible only for relatively short distances. Due to the fact that the oil pump is also idle in the idle engine, the lubrication of the components and elements of the automatic gearbox is significantly deteriorating. All of the above is relevant when transporting a car over long distances. Therefore, if it becomes necessary to transport your faulty vehicle with automatic transmission, you need to do this at a speed not exceeding 70 km.h. and at a distance of no more than 70 kilometers. Otherwise, it would be ideal to use a tow truck.
Is it possible to skid on an automatic transmission?
It is more difficult to stall on a car with an automatic transmission than on a car with a conventional “mechanics”. But if this nevertheless happened, then “rocking” the car by switching the gearbox from the forward position to the reverse gear position and vice versa is simply unacceptable. In this case, you need to use a lower range, it excludes shifting to higher gears, and in this mode, try to overcome the mud area using the brake as a clutch. In almost the same way (without re-gassing and playing along with the brake) they perform maneuvers in a limited space.
Is it possible to shift gears on the go?
Switching driving modes on the go is allowed, but not in all positions. So, for example, it is unacceptable to turn on the P and R modes when moving forward. The inclusion of these modes is carried out under the condition of a complete stop of the car. Neglect of this rule will inevitably lead to serious. It is also undesirable to put the gearshift lever in N mode while driving, because in this mode the connection between the engine and the wheels is disconnected and, in case of sudden braking, can lead to skidding of the car. You can switch to any other automatic transmission mode on the move. In some cases, this is even necessary. For example, switching from mode 3 to mode 2 improves engine braking performance.
Additional modes of automatic transmission
In later model automatic transmissions, where there are more operating ranges, there are additional modes of operation. In the control system of the automatic transmission, they are present in the form of pushbutton switches. An experienced driver knows how to use automatic transmission modes, so let's look at everything ourselves.
Economy mode("Eco" or "E") - provides the minimum fuel consumption while driving, as the engine is limited in the speed range at each stage. Thus, the joint work of the engine and the automatic transmission takes place in such a way that in each overdrive, the engine actually starts from idle, further increasing them, but not bringing them to the maximum. In this mode, the movement of the car is calm and smooth.
Sports mode("S") - in this mode of operation of the automatic transmission, engine power is used to the maximum. Each subsequent gear is engaged at frequencies close to the maximum torque. Accelerating further, the rotation of the crankshaft reaches its maximum, and thus the engine develops its full power and begins to work with full efficiency. And the car in this mode moves with much greater acceleration compared to the economy mode. A special switch designed to implement a sport or economy mode is usually located next to the gear lever and may have various designations, such as - POWER, S, SPORT, AUTO, A / T MODE, etc. Sports automatic transmissions have also become widespread, which have slightly different transmission control algorithms. In this case, switching between different operating modes can be done both with a selector and with the help of the corresponding function buttons, when the position of the automatic transmission lever remains unchanged.
kickdown- a mode that allows the engine management system and automatic transmission to achieve high acceleration values, for example, to overtake. The automatic transmission enters this mode after a sharp press on the accelerator pedal, switching to one or two downshifts. The torque transmitted from the engine to the wheels will increase, while the speed range in the engine is such that its return is almost maximum. And when the maximum engine speed is reached, the machine switches to the next overdrive. If the accelerator pedal is released, the automatic transmission will return to normal operation. Sometimes, when Overdrive is off, Kickdown is disabled. It is necessary to take into account the factor that on a slippery surface with a forced downshift, slipping of the drive wheels and further skidding are inevitable.
Winter mode(Snowflake) - to activate this mode, a special button or switch with the following designations is provided: Winter, W, Hold (or Snow). To avoid slipping of the drive wheels on a slippery road when starting off, the torque transmitted to the wheels from the engine is required to be minimal. This is done by starting the car from second or third gear - this is fraught with overheating of the automatic transmission, so driving constantly in this mode is contraindicated.
Emergency mode- this mode of operation of the automatic transmission is activated in case of malfunctions in the control system or transmission that can lead to. The control unit includes a transmission protection program and this allows the car to get to the car service on its own. As a rule, in emergency mode, shifts are prohibited and any one gear is working. The number of such a gear usually corresponds to the gear in which the shift solenoids are in the off state. Also, when triggered, the torque converter lock-up is prohibited and the maximum pressure in the main line is set.
Adaptive automatic transmission mode (automatic transmission) | Automatic transmission adaptation.
Adaptive gearboxes owe their appearance to the progress in the development of electronic automatic transmissions. Control algorithms become more intelligent, hence new qualities appear in the same transmissions from the point of view of mechanics. Now the on-board computer monitors the features and driving style of the driver and adjusts the operation of the automatic transmission and engine properly for them. With a smooth manner of movement, the computer, by means of appropriate amendments, does not bring the engine to maximum power rates of operation, which significantly reduces fuel consumption. If the driver prefers a sharp, “gusty” driving style, accompanied by frequent depressing of the accelerator pedal, the computer emphasizes frequent acceleration and intense speed and brings the engine to maximum speed. In order to make the most dynamic acceleration, the control system switches two, sometimes three steps lower. It is curious that the wear of the friction elements of an automatic transmission is already included in the operation algorithm. Which favorably affects not only the comfort of driving such a car, but also increases its efficiency and.
Automatic transmission mode AUTOSTICK (StepTronic, TipTronic)
Such an automatic transmission control system, in which both automatic and semi-automatic control modes are provided (the first was implemented by Porsche), here the switching command is given by the driver, and the control system ensures the quality of such switching. This mode, depending on the manufacturer, may have different names: AUTOSTICK, STEPTRONIC, TIPTRONIC. It is available only on cars with an electronic control system for an automatic transmission, and even then not at all.
What is TipTronic (Video)
The shift knob on vehicles with this system has a special position in which the AUTOSTICK mode is activated. This mode has two non-latching positions, labeled UP ,+, and DN ,-, required to shift into low or high gear. Gear selection in this mode is made by the driver manually, the selector lever is pushed in the direction, -, or, +, - shifting gears up or down. When the engine speed drops to idle, downshifting is automatically carried out only in the canonical design. Some manufacturers of transmissions automatically upshift at the maximum engine speed.
The mechanical part of such a box is indistinguishable from a conventional automatic box, only the control automation and the selector lever have been changed. Such automatic transmissions are characterized by a cutout for moving the selector lever in the form of the letter H, and the symbols, +, and, -,. Still, this mode (AUTOSTICK) is more semi-automatic than manual, since the transmission computer controls the driver's activity and will not allow him to select a gear that exceeds the permissible engine speeds or will not allow him to move from a higher gear. The rest gives the impression of using a manual gearbox. If such a desire arises, then you can easily return to the normal automatic transmission mode by putting the speed mode shift knob in position D, so it’s more likely riding on automatic transmission than "poking" with a pen.
On powerful modifications of cars, sports automatic transmissions are installed, which are equipped with a manual gearshift function. Moreover, such a manual gear shift can be carried out not only by moving the selector up and down, but also with the help of small paddles on the steering wheel, pressing which allows you to lower or increase the steps. This is quite popular on sports cars and executive sedans, which are equipped with powerful engines.
This legendary 4-speed automatic transmission 01M own production Audi-Volkswagen (predecessors - 095 / 096) has been produced for 17 years, from 1995 to the present day, for all popular front-wheel drive cars VW, Seat and Scoda ( and even Audi A3) with an engine from 1.6 l to 2.0 l located across.
And if we consider that the family of these automatic transmissions also includes closely related predecessors: automatic transmissions 095, 096, 097, 098, which differed in the forced locking of the torque converter in 01 * instead of the damper in 096, the pan gasket, housing and differences in pistons ( see diagram "Differences 01N and 095-098" left), then this legendary box has been on sale since 1991 - more than 20 years!
Of these, the most popular in repair is the box. Volkswagen Golf- automatic transmission 096 . Which was assembled at some Volkswagen plants until 2009. A 01M installed on the Trade Winds (China) so far. By the way, in German factories on the Tradewinds with different engines, an automatic machine worked.
Less common modification - 01P(her predecessor is 098 ), capable of transmitting higher torque, was aggregated with engines up to 2.8l VW Sharan, VW T2 / T4, VW Eurovan, Ford Galaxy - (minibuses and minivans). A constructive relative and many consumables are interchangeable.
Modification 097 for "indestructible" Audi 80 - Audi 100 and served until 1995, when it was replaced by the same "indestructible" .
Developed for A4, A6, Cabrio Audi modification of automatic transmission AG4 - can transmit torque from engines of 2.8 liters. They differ from each other in housings and differentials. Most of the other parts of the entire family are interchangeable.
This family of automatic transmissions was the last masterpiece of the Volkswagen-Audi group, trying to compete in the manual transmission market. The 5-speed, released in the same 95th year, turned out to be so much more perfect and competitive in price that VAG soon decided to close its own development of traditional automatic machines., by going to further on the machines of the Japanese and German . Just like the American NASA uses Russian rockets to send its astronauts into orbit.
And all the forces of their designers since the late 1990s VAG redirected to the production of its own CVTs (), and after the relative with the variator 01J- on preselective boxes that were considered much more promising.
Repair features
One of the features of the universal transmission 01M- in that for the transverse arrangement (unlike the 01N colleague), a differential was introduced with a separate lubrication system (the oil for it is checked and replaced separately).These automatic transmissions (together with a relative 01N Audi) have been the most repaired in Russia among all Audi-Volkswagen automatic transmissions for many years. In terms of popularity, they are in the top 4 of the world leaders, along with French, Japanese and No. 1-
A little behind is their eternal competitor - Mercedes, whose family of automatic transmissions is as tenacious as it is often repaired. In the last year, 6-speed brothers - German, Japanese, and American-Korean - are increasingly breaking into the group of repair leaders.
Filter for all automatic transmissions after 1994 01M-N-P - 105010A.
The felt membrane filter is the same for all 01* and differs from the predecessor filter: 096-... -098 (- #105010 ) on right.
Pick up repair kits - press the button on the left.
Repair kits for gaskets and seals for 01P and 01M - no.105002 different from the automatic transmission Audi 01N, but identical to their predecessors 096-... -098.
Usually, with Overols, when sorting out cars with burnt oil, they also order a Complete set of clutches - No. 105003 with piston kit (105008).
Torque converter - 105001 is being repaired.
Typical repair places for "age" automatic transmissions:
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Masters prefer to order gaskets and seals (Overol Kit) for 01M from ATOK (105002 -AT) the quality of the compression rings is close to the original (on right). Less commonly ordered Precision and Transtec Repair Kits. For overhaul 01P - more often order Overol Kit from Precision - 105002A. Also, often with Overols they order and change sets of pistons from 5 pieces together - for 095-098. Piston kit for 01M\P\N is different - of 7 pcs. 105008A. |
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They usually order a complete set of washers - 105200. |
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Freewheel cage 105654A , crumbles. The reason is prolonged overheating and aging of plastic. Usually, the life of plastic is not less than 8-10 years, but at elevated temperatures it exhausts its resource earlier. |
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Rubber piston kit 01M Dubeet rubber and does not hold pressure well, especially in winter. On age machines and overheated automatic transmissions, the entire set of rubberized pistons is replaced - No.105008A. This is a mandatory order for cars older than 8-10 years. Masters almost always order Non-original Pistons. |
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Drum 3-4 (105550 ) fails due to the basket being forced along the shaft axis ( in the photo on the right - the blue arrow is the norm, the red one is pressed through).
Replacing the drum - No. 105550. |
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Packages burn out: 3-4, No. 105100 (friction), No. 105120 (steel), No. 105140; (support) No. 105141. The reason is in the line. On the 01M, the steel rims are thinner (1.45mm) than the pre-95 (2mm). Also the bases.The problem can be caused both by the above-described cause of the drum basket bulging, or by a lack of oil pressure. The package Forward 105108 also burns out; 105128; 105148 and Reverse package with simultaneous failure of piston return springs Reverse 105976K -AF.A common reason: an attempt to “buildup” to leave gauge on a bad road. |
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Solenoids for 01M
Significant changes to the family took place in 1995 for the 01 series. When introduced into the valve body. Electricity in German is simple, reliable, unpretentious and maintainable. The hydraulic plates have been modified several times. In the latest modifications of the valve body, where instead of the gas turbine damper (095-098) there is a clutch lock (01M-N-P) of these solenoids - 2 pcs (on right). The busiest PWMs are the first to fail.solenoids EPC and TCC (lock up). 095927333 - Linear pressure solenoid EPC- EV6 No. 105431 (it is also the torque converter lock - TCC, EV4 - torque converter). The latest EV4 usually wears out faster due to the donut entering the oil. Later fail 3-way ball-type solenoids - solenoid valves - "shift" solenoid shift 105421 . Their manual numbers are EV-1, -2, -3, -5, -7. And VAG numbers - No. 88, 89, 90, 92, 94 (see tables on the left) It is believed that 8-10 years is the average normal life of all 01M - 01N electrical components, including sensors. After that, the resistance of their wiring begins to increase, the channel wears out, changing the valve closing characteristics and the computer "rejects" them. () |
   
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Hydroblock - 105740Requires regular cleaning. For cars that have passed 150-200 tkm, this work is done as routine. (As well as the repair of the "donut") Oil pollution comes from the gas turbine engine and is composed of friction lining dust and wear of the support washer.Dirty oil clogs and eats the metal of the channels and spools in the most loaded valves of the Hydroblock. (on right) Torque converter lock-up valve 105169A-SX (Valve Bost) suffers primarily . Then- Main pressure control valve,- Booster valve, - Solenoid valve. Due to the long drive with the gas turbine engine lining eaten out, the untimely replacement of the transmission oil and filter, the resource wear of the entire plate occurs. () |
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A consumable for most repairs is - Solenoid Wiring, Wire Harness ( 105446 ), which, due to frequent problems, was constantly improved by designers and now there are several modifications of it on the market. Most often ordered wiring for 01M. Less commonly ordered universal wiring no.105446A(for 01N, 01M, 01P). |
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Speed sensors 01M With each overhaul of an age-related overheated transmission, it is quite often necessary to change:
Input speed sensor (105436) And Output speed sensor (105438). left. For different machines, these sensors have different modifications - there are long Output Sensors, and there are short ones, the same for input and output, they differ in chip and connection. |
 
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When disassembling, you have to knock out with a chisel Rubberized cover of the drive shaft and intermediate gear, (89-up) No. 105483 -AF. Replaced. |
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- Planetary gear set 105584 . ( on right). The reason is that due to the resource wear of one of the support bearings ( 105241), its needles fall into the gears of the planetary gear set. The resource of bearings and the entire assembly is significantly reduced during overheating and oil starvation . |
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It is repaired with a repair kit with the replacement of a plastic retainer with a metal one - 105986. For all cars older than 10 years old that came in for repair with burnt oil, the plastic of this set of springs must be checked and changed. |
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Wear on the thrust washer seat at the stator base is also common, resulting in end play and vibrations. With them, they change the pump bushing 105034 and oil seals 105070. If you are late with changing the oil, and then with replacing the oil seal and bushings, then you have to change the entire pump assembly - 105500. |
 
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Replacing worn bushingsage automatic transmission 01M - a characteristic type of overhaul. Often masters order the whole set - No. 105030 . One of the main causes of all hardware problems is the wear (or contamination) of the hydraulic plate, which leads to oil starvation of various friction units. AND The iron here has such a large design margin that the 01M easily survives to the wear of the bushings without replacing drums, planets and shafts - the main sign of a balanced design. A rarity for modern automatic transmissions. |
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torque converter due to the introducedV01M\N began to work more intensively and after 150-250 tkm it needs to be overhauled with the replacement of consumables (with aggressive driving). But nevertheless, of all the "donuts" of the 20th century, this one is perhaps the most reliable and long-playing. Torque converter repair - 105001. Unfortunately, it comes into repair after a critical oil starvation. Friction wear and, as a result of overheating, bushings. There are GDT designs with a bearing instead of a bushing. Such a bagel does not require repair for a long time and can stain the valve body with a locking clutch eaten to the very foundation for a long time. Repairs often come with modifications with a sleeve. When overhauling a gas turbine engine, in addition to changing the lining and seals, the bushing is changed to a bearing, which makes it practically indestructible. |
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Wear pump stator No. 105520 in the central hole for cast iron O-rings 105199 .
Required after repair throttle adaptation.Check the tightness of the cast iron compression rings on the input shaft 105178
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Rinse and thoroughly clean the transmission cooler (Cooler), and when repairing a car that came in for repair with burnt oil, replace the cooler.
The cost and availability of the items you need can be checked in the online store by typing the number on an orange background in the search field for the part.
On which cars this family of automatic transmissions was installed:
| Auto | Model | Year of issue | Assembly country | Engine | Model | |
| Audi | A3 | 00-03 | BRA DEU HUN | 4SP F/AWD | L4 1.4L 1.8L 1.9L | 01M |
| Mercedes | V class | 00-02 | ESP | 4SP FWD | V6 2.8L | 01P |
| SEAT | ALHAMBRA | 00-09 | PRT | 4SP FWD | L4 1.9L 2.0L | 01P |
| SEAT | TOLEDO | 96-01 | BEL | 4SP FWD | L4 1.6L 1.8L 2.0L | 01M |
| VOLKSWAGEN | BEETLE | 98-10 | MEX | 4SP FWD | L4 1.4L 1.6L 1.8L 1.9L 2.0L | 01M |
| VOLKSWAGEN | BORA | 00-08 | CHN DEU SVK ZAF | 4SP FWD | L4 1.6L 1.8L 1.9L 2.0L | 01M |
| VOLKSWAGEN | CABRIO | 95-01 | 4SP FWD | L4 2.0L | 01M | |
| VOLKSWAGEN | EUROVAN | 95-03 | 4SP FWD | V6 2.8L | 01P | |
| VOLKSWAGEN | GOLF/GTI | 95-06 | DEU | 4SP FWD | L4 1.8 2.0L 1.9L DIESEL | 01M |
| VOLKSWAGEN | JETTA | 95-01 | 4SP FWD | L4 1.8/1.9/2.0L V6 2.8L | 01M | |
| VOLKSWAGEN | JETTA | 02-03 | 4SP FWD | L4 2.0L /1.9L DIESEL | 01M | |
| VOLKSWAGEN | JETTA/JETTA WAGON | 04-05 | 4SP FWD | L4 2.0L | 01M | |
| VOLKSWAGEN | PASSAT | 95-.. | CHN DEU UKR | 4SP FWD | L4 1.9L 2.0L V6 2.8L | 01M |
| VOLKSWAGEN | SHARAN | 95-10 | PRT | 4SP FWD | L4 1.9L 2.0L | 01P |
An approximate range of spare parts for the repair of this automatic transmission
The current price and availability can be found by clicking on the part number .
| Full name | Code (click for price and availability) |
| Diagnostics and repair of torque converter automatic transmission 01M/01N/01P | 105001 |
| Gasket and Seal Kit without pistons, 4-gear, front wheel drive, 096/01M VW, 1989-Up (Repair kit \ Overhaul kit \ Overhaul Kit) | 105002 |
| Gasket and Seal Kit without pistons, 4 gears, front wheel drive, 098/01P/099, Eurovan 1992-06 (Repair kit \ Overhaul kit \ Overhaul Kit) | 105002A |
| Set of Gaskets and Seals without pistons, front wheel drive, 01P this automatic transmission was installed on minivans VW and Ford Galaxy, 1996-Up (Repair kit \ Overhaul kit \ Overhaul Kit) | 105002AA |
| Gasket and Seal Kit without pistons and plugs, 097/AG4 Audi, 1989-1994 | 105002B |
| Gasket and Seal Kit without pistons, 01N Audi, 1996-Up (Repair kit \ Overhaul kit \ Overhaul Kit) | 105002C |
| Friction pack 01M/N/P/AD4/AD8, (pack) Friction pack, Audi/VW/Renault 1995-Up | 105003A |
| Friction Pack, 097/095/096/098 1989-1995 | 105003C |
| Steel Wheel Set, AG4/01P Euro VW 1995-Up | 105004A |
| Steel Disc Kit, 095/ 096/ 097 1989-1995 | 105004B |
| Steel Wheel Set, AG4/ 01M/ 01N Audi 1995-Up | 105004 |
| Gasket, Clutch & Steel Disc Kit (Master Kit) 01M 1995-Up, Includes 105002-AT + 105003A-LN + 105004 | 105007 |
| Set of gaskets, clutches and steel discs (Master Kit) 01P eurovan 1995-Up, kit includes 105002AA-AT + 105003A-LN + 105004A | 105007A |
| Rubber piston set, 096/097/098/095 (AG4) AUDI 4 SPEED 1989-1995 (5 pcs.) | 105008 |
| Set of 7 rubber pistons, 01M/01N/01P for cars from 1995 | 105008A |
| Filter, 01M/01N/01P round port to valve block 1994-Up | 105010A |
| Filter, 096/097/098 1990-1996 | 105010 |
| Set (7 pcs) of bimetal bushings, 096/097/098/01M/01N/01P/AG4, Bushing Kit, 1990-Up | 105030 |
| Pump Cover Sleeve, 095/096/097/098/01M/01P (53.2x51.2x10) 1990-Up | 105034 |
| Clip-sector plastic hub Forward, 095/096/097/098 (Plastic Clips 1pc, 19 mm) 1989-1994 | 105050A |
| Clip-sector plastic hub Forward, (Plastic Clips 1pc, 16 mm) 01M/01N/01P/AD4 1995-Up | 105050B |
| Set of 4 plastic clips, 16mm wide, that center the Forward Hub (Item 574) relative to the Forward Drum (Item 554), 01M/01N/01P/AD4 1995-Up | 105050BK |
| Oil seal / pump seal, 095/096/097/098/01M/N/P/AD4 (included in the repair kit for gaskets and seals) VW 1989-Up | 105070 |
| Axle shaft oil seal / collar, 010/095/096/01M/01N/AD4 (left and right) 01N (left) (included in the gasket and oil seal repair kit) 1989-Up | 105076 |
| Oil seal (cuff), Right AG4-097 / 01N (48.5 x 32 x 7) 1991-Up | 105077A |
| Seal (cuff), Left Axle (65mm) AG4-097/01N 1991-Up | 105077 |
| Friction Disc 096 K-3 3-4 Audi VW HP 89-95 | 105100 |
| Friction Disc, Friction plate, (3-4 Clutch) 01M/01N/01P/AD4/AD8 K-3 , (Outer disc diameter 103mm), 1996-Up | 105100A |
| Friction Disc VW 01M K-3 3/4 Clutch one-sided with external teeth 1999-Up | 105100BE |
| Friction Disc VW 01M K-3 3/4 Clutch Hi-Energy Graphitic (HEG) 1999-Up | 105100BI |
| Friction Disc, (Intermediate Clutch) 096/097/098/01M/01N/01P/AD4/AD8/AR4 (2-4) B-2 1989+ | 105104A |
| Friction Disc, (Forward Clutch/Reverse Clutch) 096/097/098/01M/N/P/AD4/AD8/AR4 K-1/K-2 1990-Up | 105108 |
| Friction Disc, (Low / Reverse Clutch) 01M/N/P B-1 1998-up | 105114A |
| Steel plate, K3 clutch, Steel plate, 095/096/097/01P/098/AR4, (OD 103 mm), K3(3-4), ,1989-up | 105120A |
| Steel Disc, (3-4 Clutch) 01M/01N/01P K-3 1994-Up | 105120AA |
| Steel disc, 01M/N/P/AD4 K3 (3-4) Selective 95+ | 105120AB |
| Steel Disc, (3-4 Clutch) 01M/01N/01P K-3 1994-Up | 105120 |
| Steel Disc, (Forward Clutch/Reverse Clutch) 096/097/098/01M/N/P/AD4/AD8/AR4 K-1/K-2 1995-Up | 105128A |
| Steel Disc, (Forward Clutch/Reverse Clutch) 096/097/098/01M/N/P/AD4/AD8/AR4 K-1/K-2 1990-Up | 105128 |
| Steel disc corrugated, 096/097/098/01M/N/P/AD4/AD8/AR4, VW Reverse Clutch (Cushion) | 105131 |
| Steel rim, VW 096/097/098/AD4/AD8/AR4 B1 Clutch (Low/Reverse) 1989-1995 | 105134A |
| Steel rim, VW AG4 01M/N/P B1 Clutch (Low/Reverse) 1995-Up | 105134B |
| Disc Thrust, (3-4 Clutch) 01M/01N/01P K-3 2001-up | 105140A |
| Thrust Disc, Pressure Plate, K3 (3-4 Clutch) 01M VR-6 Only 1 Sided Friction Ext Spline | 105140B |
| Support disc, (3-4 Clutch) 01M/01N/01P K-3 with wave spring 1994-Up | 105141A |
| Disc Thrust, B2 Apply 095/096/097/01M/01N B2 (Intermediate) Front (3Tx3x136.2x155.5) | 105144A |
| Disc Thrust, (Forward Clutch/Reverse Clutch) 096/097/098/01M/N/P/AD4/AD8/AR4 K-1/K-2 1990-Up | 105148A |
| Disc Thrust, (Forward Clutch/Reverse Clutch) 096/097/098/01M/N/P/AD4/AD8/AR4 K-1/K-2 1988-up | 105148 |
| TCC Boost Valve Kit (3 positions), TCC Boost Valve Kit, 01M/N/P (119940-01K) | 105169A |
| Ratchet End Plug with 2 Barbs, Ratcheting End Plug 096/097/01M/N/P | 105169C |
| Valve body ball springs (control plates) 10pcs set, Springs, checkball valve bodies (10 pcs.) 01M/01N/01P | 105169D |
| Compression Ring Kit of 12, metal, (included in repair kit...002) Sealing Ring Kit, 095/096/097/098/01M/01N/01P 1990-Up | 105199AK |
| Compression Ring Kit of 6, Metal, (Included in Repair Kit...002) Sealing Ring Kit, 095/096/097/098/01M/01N/01P 1990-Up | 105199K |
| Comp. Washer, WSH 096/097/098/01M/P/N Kit (4PCS)(211, 229, 229A,229C) | 105200 |
| Plain bearing of pump stator, 096/097/098/01M/01N/01P/ | 105211 |
| Bearing, 095/096/097/098/01M/N 3-4 Clutch Drum To 3-4 Clutch Hub (35.2x22x6.3) | 105214A |
| Bearing, Bearing, 095/096/097/098/01M/N, 3-4 Clutch Hub To Drive Hub | 105218A |
| Plain bearing, plastic, (Forward Drum) 096/097/098/01M/01N/01P K-2 (thickness 1.4 mm) grey, part number 1 | 105229A |
| Plastic sliding bearing, (Forward Drum) 096/097/098/01M/01N/01P K-2 (thickness 1.2 mm) green, part number No. 2 | 105229C |
| Washer (1pc.), Washer, 01M/01N, Thrust K2 (1.6 mm) Black | 105229 |
| 095/096/097/01M/01N/01P/JF506E split conical washer, 095/096/097/01M/01N/01P/JF506E stands between the axle shaft flange and the differential (Outer diameter: 35.00 mm, Inner 28.70 mm, thickness (height | 105275A |
| Pan gasket, (included in the gasket and oil seal repair kit) 2nd generation 01N (95y.+) | 105300A |
| Oil pan gasket, rubber, 098/01P (included in gasket and oil seal repair kit) 92-Up | 105300B |
| Oil pan gasket, rubber, 095/096/01M/AD4 (included in gasket and oil seal repair kit) 90-up | 105300 |
| Rear cover gasket, rubber, Gasket, 095/096/01M (included in repair kit...002) End cover | 105303A |
| Pump Gasket, 01M/01N/01P (Included in Repair Kit...002) 94-Up | 105310A |
| Pump gasket, 096/097/098 (included in repair kit...002) 1990-94 | 105310 |
| Pump sealing ring, (O-Ring) 096/097/098/01M/01N/01P | 105311 |
| Gear Selector Sensor, 01M/01N/01P Speed Position MLPS | 105410A |
| Solenoid-Solenoid Clutch Pack Engagement Valve (Shift), Solenoid Shift, 096/097/098/01M/01N/01P, 1990-Up | 105421 |
| Line Pressure Solenoid Solenoid, Solenoid EPC/LOCK UP, 095/096/097/01M/01N/01P, 1990-Up | 105431 |
| Sensor (speed) input / output speed, on the wire chip with a rounded connector for 3 pins, Sensor, 096/097/098/01M/N/P, Input / output Speed 1989-up | 105436AB |
| Output speed sensor, 096/097/098/01M/N/P (2-pin square plug, no wire) G38/G68, 1990-up | 105438 |
| Speed Sensor (Output Speed / Speedometer), 2 pins, oval chip without wire, Sensor, 096/097/098/01M/01N/01P, Speedometer/Output Speed 1999-Up | 105438A |
| Solenoid Wiring, Internal, Wire Harness, Internal 01M (suitable for automatic transmission 096) - the length of the wiring from the plug to the entrance to the automatic transmission is 42 cm | 105446A |
| Solenoid Harness, Wire Harness, Internal 097/01N/098/01P, 1991-Up | 105446B |
| Solenoid Harness, Wire Harness, Internal 096/097/01M/01N universal (wires instead of flat cable) | 105446U |
| Cover rubberized drive shaft and intermediate gear, (73.5x70.9x24), 097/01N 89-up | 105483 |
| Oil pump assembly, 01M/01N/01P with hole for blocking the GTR (part number 01M 321 247) 95-up | 105500B |
| Clutch drum 3-4 for 5 clutches, with bushing, Drum 01M/N/P 3-4 (Size 113.2x20x228.5mm) Distance from slot for locking ring to top - 6.5mm 1995-up | 105550BA |
| Rear Center Support, 095/096/097/098 VW/AUDI | 105630 |
| Freewheel Separator 1st Gear, 095/096/097/098/01M/01N/01P 1990-Up | 105654A |
| Plain bearing spherical plastic, ball 96 mm, under differential pinions, Washer, 01P 1995-up | 105721A |
| Retainer Nut, Retainer, 01M/01N/01P Height 37.7mm; nar upl from the side of the shank.Pinion Brg (Aluminum) | 105735B |
| Control Plate Assembly (Valve Body), Valve Body, 095/096/097/098 (CAST | 105740AB |
| Intermediate ring, support, (Size 156.5x136.3x1.7mm. Teeth - NO), Cushion, 095/096/097/098/01M/N/P.Intermediate Clutch | 105852A |
| Snap Ring (Size 131.2x4.0x2.0mm), Snap Ring, 095/096/097/098/01M/N/P Holds Forward 2 mm | 105876A |
| Piston Rubberized, K3(3-4) Clutch 01M/01N/01P AG4 [Outer diameter 89.70mm; Inner diameter 33mm; Thickness 29mm] 1995-up | 105960A |
| Rubberized support piston, 01M/01N/01P K3 (3-4) Clutch AG4 1995-up | 105961 |
| Piston, Piston, 095/96/97/01M/01N/01P B2(2-4/INTM) 1989-Up | 105962A |
| Piston Rubberized, K1 (1-3/Forward) 01M/01N/01P,(115.65mm x 43mm x 14.4mm),1995-up | 105964A |
| Piston Rubberized, Forward Drum VW 095/096/097/098/AD4 K1(FRD), (90.7mm x 43.4mm x 27.8mm) ,1989-94 | 105964 |
| Piston Retainer Molded K1 (Forward) 01M/01N/01P (108mm x 43.4mm x 12.1mm), 1995-up | 105965 |
| Piston Rubberized, Piston Molded 095/096/097/098/01M/01N/01P K2 Reverse Clutch AG4 1989-Up | 105966A |
| Piston Rubberized, Piston, 095/096/097/098/01M/01N/01P Low/Reverse Clutch (B1)(Bonded) 1989-Up | 105967A |
| Return Spring Block on Clutch Holder Reverse Clutch, Retainer W/Springs, 095/096/097/098/01N/M/P Reverse Clutch 1990-up | 105976K |
| Spring 095/096/097/098 Diaphram Low/Reverse (096 3445A) | 105977A |
| Diaphram Spring, 095/096/097/098 Forward Clutch #105984-UD | 105984 |
| Reverse clutch spring holder repair kit (aluminum clip + springs), 095/096/097/098/ 01M/01N/01P Spring Retainer Reverse (K2) Clutch | 105986A |
| lower heat exchanger ring | 105998A |
| top heat exchanger ring | 105998B |
| Pan fill cap screw 01M/01N/01P 1995-2002 | 105999D |
To do this, it is necessary to pull out the probe of the machine with the engine running. It usually differs from the engine oil dipstick in the shape of the handle in the form of a red cylinder with a slot in the middle. There are two pairs of marks on the dipstick, the first for a cold engine and the second for a warmed up to operating temperature. Accordingly, the oil mark must be between one or the other pair.
Oil underfill very dangerous thing. Don't allow it. Indirectly, underfilling is indicated by the sound of a vacuum cleaner from the probe hole when the engine is running. When underfilling, the pump pumps oil along with air, which leads to a decrease in line pressure in the lines, a decrease in downforce on the friction clutches and, as a result, slippage of the discs and their accelerated wear. Possible failures when shifting gears.
Oil overflow is no less dangerous. When the oil level is high and the moving parts start to touch the surface, the oil starts to foam. This leads, as in the previous case, to a drop in line pressure in the system. Possible failures when shifting gears. In addition, oil seals may be pressed through and oil leaks may appear.
The slippage of the friction discs leads to their accelerated wear, burning and shedding, which in turn leads to clogging of the oil filter and the suspension of the linear pressure solenoid of the machine and, again, to a drop in linear pressure. A chain reaction begins. On some machines, the filter is made of felt and becomes clogged more actively than the mesh one; it needs to be replaced during repairs.
P-R-N-D-S-L, hold, power These are the operating modes of the machine. They can also include a red button near the selector and a mode lock button on the selector. The red button, when shifted or pressed, allows the machine to be turned on when the ignition is off.
P- PARKING - serves to keep the car in the parking lot. You can switch to this mode only when the car is completely stopped. Accidental inclusion is blocked by the button on the machine selector.
R- REVERSE - reverse. You can switch to this mode only when the car is completely stopped. Accidental inclusion is blocked by the button on the machine selector.
N- NEUTRAL - neutral gear. Not quite the same as on manual boxes. In this gear, you can not roll downhill for a long time or tow the car with the engine off without risking damage to the machine. The oil pump is located on the input shaft of the automatic transmission and therefore does not work in such a situation and the box remains without oil.
D- DRIVE - the most basic mode of operation - driving is allowed in all gears, and there are 4 of them in the machine, first (1), second (2), third (3), fourth or overdrive (4). the fourth gear is similar to the fifth in manual boxes, that is, it is an overdrive, unlike the third, which is a direct gear
When driving, never switch the selector of the machine between positions S-D-N while pressing the button on it. Can accidentally turn on L or R.
S- in this mode, only 1-2-3 gears are included. You can use this mode for engine braking down hills when driving at about 80 km/h.
L- LOAD - in this mode only 1-2 gears are included. Can be used for engine braking from hills when driving at a speed of about 60 km / h. Accidental inclusion is blocked by the button on the machine selector.
HOLD- has a direct impact on modes D-S-L, we denote them as hold on(the light on the panel is on) respectively Dh-Sh-Lh. This mode can be used for manual shifting of 1st and 2nd gears.
Dh- only 2-3 gears are included. The automatic transmission becomes two-speed. The start of movement occurs from the second gear. Switching to third occurs at higher rpm than usual and back to second at lower. You can use this mode for engine braking down hills when driving at about 80 km/h. It is possible when driving around the city to avoid unreasonable switching. But its main use is driving on slippery or loose ground in winter. When starting from second gear, the torque on the drive wheels decreases and, accordingly, the likelihood of slipping of one of them decreases.
Sh- only 2nd gear is engaged. Main application driving in slow motion at speeds of 40...60 km/h
lh- only 1st gear is engaged. The main use is driving in traffic jams at low speeds to brake with the engine and avoid putting your foot on the brake pedal.
To prevent exceeding the maximum engine speed when the button is pressed hold still going upshifting to a higher gear and back.
POWER- The mode of operation of the machine in which all gears are engaged at higher engine speeds. It is not installed on modern machines, when you fully press the gas pedal, the machine still switches at higher speeds.
All of the above applies to Mazda machines. On Toyota cars, the logic of work is different. There, the selector positions limit upshifting to the gear indicated on the selector. That is, at 1, only the first gear is turned on, at 2, only 1 and 2. At 3, 1, 2, 3 are turned on, and if OD is on, then 4. If OD is Off, 4 is not turned on.
Only what is specified by the manufacturer. And Mazda indicates ATF M III (Dexron III according to the classification M o bil, i.e. Mercon III). Not all Dexron oils are the same. Saving on oil in an automatic transmission cannot be compared with the cost of repairing it. Good oils for example M o bil.
Do not fill Dexron II instead of Dexron III. While the oil is cold, the machine will work without comment, but after warming up, it will work inadequately. Then it will crash.
On the engine compartment plate you can find the brand of oil after the letters ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). This designation is usually found twice, for power steering and automatic transmission. For power steering, Dexron II is usually used.
Good results are obtained by an additive in the machine called TransX. In some cases, allowing you to extend the period of operation of a faulty automatic transmission before repair for a year.
How to change the oil in the machine?I know three ways to change the oil.
First. The most common. The oil is simply drained through the drain plug of the machine or by removing the pan. And it is poured through the hole for the dipstick. The disadvantage is that in this way almost only half of the volume is drained. So for a complete replacement, you must repeat the procedure several times. In addition, there is a possibility of damaging the gaskets.
Second. It requires special equipment and is used at oil change stations. A thin hose is inserted through the dipstick to control the level, through which the oil is sucked out by the pump. The disadvantage is, as with the first method, not a complete oil change. When lowering, the hose rests on the pan not in its lowest place, in addition, oil remains in the torque converter and radiator. For a complete replacement, you must repeat the procedure several times. The only advantage is that the change does not require a pit and any disassembly.
Third. This method is used by specialists in the repair of machines. Each machine has an oil cooling circuit in the engine radiator. The oil in the torque converter is under high pressure and at high temperature, it would have to boil when it leaves the torque converter. To avoid this, the oil is immediately sent to the radiator for cooling. The replacement procedure is as follows:
The hose is removed (unscrewed) from the machine to the radiator and a similar, but longer one is inserted into its place, the second end of which is lowered into a suitable container. The engine starts and the oil drains under the action of the machine pump. Engine shuts off immediately after draining.
The first can (4 l) of oil for automatic machines is poured through the dipstick (for this we use a funnel with a hose). This is a flushing stage, so you can use the cheapest oil, such as Mitsubishi. The engine is started again and this oil is drained. Only in the last half liters will it be noticeable that the oil is clean! Engine shuts off immediately after draining.
Everything is screwed into place and clean oil from a good manufacturer is poured in, controlling the risks on the dipstick. We start the engine after filling the first 3 liters.
Needless to say, this is the most complete oil change plus torque converter flush. Oil change stations use this method M o bil using special brand equipment Wynn's for oil filling. In addition, as a side effect, pressure in position is measured N automatic transmission. By its size, you can judge the condition of the box.
Go to the service 8-)) Well, of course this is a joke. Who will go to the service if he himself has not tried everything. 8-))
Soon I will describe the diagnosis of the machine by codes. But for now, we're just counting them.
It is necessary to find the diagnostic connector under the engine hood and connect the contacts with a jumper in it TAT(Test Automatic Transmission) and GND(Ground). Switch on the ignition (do not start the engine). Indicator HOLD should light up once for a few seconds and go out. This means that there are no fault codes.
If after that it continues to flash with long or short pulses, we read the codes. A long signal means tens, and a short one means units. For example, one long and 2 short - code 12 - malfunction of the throttle position sensor. Then after a pause comes the next code.
During the operation of the car, there are cases when, when it is started, the voltage in the network drops sharply (with a weak battery, with poor contacts at its terminals, etc.). In this case, false codes appear in the computers of both the automatic transmission and the engine. They must be erased.
Oh, if someone knew this ... There are cases when an automatic machine breaks down, which is operated according to all the canons and has been working for a long time, the maintenance of which was not paid attention at all.
4th gear is disengaged when the oil temperature is below -10 degrees.
There is no lockup (lock-up - torque converter lock) at oil temperatures below +40 degrees and when driving at a speed of less than 120 km / h when the throttle is closed.
From these two points it follows that the precautions for operating the automatic transmission at low temperatures have already been taken and IMHO there is no need to take others (warm up the automatic transmission). Yes, and it seems difficult to me to do this at idle. Firstly, the oil pressure at idle is about 4.5 versus 11 when moving forward and 18 when reversing. Secondly, the oil passes through the engine cooling system, which is still locked to the internal circuit and is in the coldest state, that is, the cooling is more intense.
The selector itself has a lock button that prevents accidental activation R,P or L. To avoid trouble during normal shifting S<->D<->N never press the selector lock button. If you press it every time you shift, you may accidentally engage (for example, during heavy braking at the time of shifting) gears that should be engaged either after a complete stop ( R And P), or at low speed ( L).
To prevent engine over-revving during hold on still going upshifting to a higher gear and back. Small variations on different types of machines.
The automatic transmission has a speed sensor not only for the secondary shaft, but also for the primary. If the speed does not match, the computer turns on the bypass program for this transmission.
There are operating rules on the Internet (60% of them, in my opinion, are rather controversial). Most of the points follow from one another and are apparently written only to use all the letters of the alphabet from A to Z. I have singled out only the really harmful ones.
Destroy automatic transmission:
Low and high oil level
towing a car with automatic transmission over long distances and at high speed, the 50x50 principle is considered the normal mode, that is, no more than 50 km and no more than 50 km / h
driving on low-quality or old oil or not corresponding to the manual (Dexron-II instead of Dexron-III, for example)
driving with an overheated engine and, therefore, on an overheated gearbox
I'll add my own points:
operating a car with a discharged or in poor condition battery if the box is electronically controlled.
towing by a passenger car with an automatic transmission of a truck.
overcoming deep water barriers when the automatic transmission breather enters the water. In this case, due to the sudden cooling of the body, water enters through the breather. Due to moisture, the friction clutches and the torque converter lockup clutch are separated.
There are many different verification methods, but we will focus on the five main ones.
1. Oil level and condition. The level must correspond to the risks at a given temperature. The oil should not smell like a sharp burn, it should be pure red (maybe a slight darkening) and when rubbed on the finger from the dipstick, there should be no noticeable impurities. If the oil is drained into a container, then when it is stirred, it should not leave whitish streaks.
2. Ready time. We warm up the engine to normal idle speed. Standing on the brake switch N-->D And N-->Dh and note the time until the push, indicating that the machine has turned on, this time should be 0.5s ... 1s. Similarly, we switch N-->R and also note the time, it should be less than 1.2 s. Time greater than the specified indicates wear of the friction clutches. Similarly N-->Dh. On Toyota cars, these times are longer by 0.2 ... 0.3 s.
3. parking test. Make sure that the engine idle speed and ignition timing are correct. Turn off all energy consumers (air conditioner, radio, ventilation and heating of seats and rear window, headlights). At the same time, we press the foot brake, switch the selector to D and press the gas pedal to the floor. We notice the maximum engine speed on the tachometer. You can not keep this mode for more than 5 seconds.
Switch to S, R And L and repeat. Compare with the table. Breaks between tests should be at least a minute!
| Model | Min | Max |
| RX7 | 3000 | 3300 |
| 929 | 1950 | 2250 |
| B2200 | ||
| carburetor | 1800 | 2200 |
| EGI-FI | 1850 | 2250 |
| B2600 | 2100 | 2500 |
| Miata (MX-5) | ||
| 1993 | 2600 | 3000 |
| 1994 | 1900 | 2100 |
| MPV | 1800 | 2200 |
4. Road test. To conduct this test, a preferably flat and straight section of the road is not controlled by traffic police radars.
Check the position of the selector and its indication on the instrument panel.
Switch the selector to D. Accelerate and then slow down the car at full and half throttle. Make sure you are switching 1-->2 , 2-->3 , 3-->4 And 4-->3 , 3-->2 , 2-->1 .
When moving to 4 th gear, switch the selector to the position S and make sure the switch happens immediately 4-->3 .
Turn on the mode Dh. Check that the switch is in progress 2-->3 And 3-->2 and no inclusion 1 And 4 .
Slow down the car. Make sure engine braking is on 3 And 2 gears at 1/8 throttle opening or less.
When moving to 2, 3 And 4 gears, make sure that you do not hear unusual noise (grinding) or vibration when lightly pressing the gas pedal in the range of 40 ... 60 km / h.
5. Diagnostics by codes. It is necessary to find the diagnostic connector under the engine hood and connect the contacts with a jumper in it TAT And GND. Switch on the ignition (do not start the engine). Bulb HOLD should light up once for a few seconds and go out. If after that it continues to flash with long or short pulses, the automatic transmission needs to be repaired. During the operation of the car, there are cases when, when starting, its voltage in the network drops sharply (with a weak battery, with poor contacts at its terminals, etc.). In this case, false codes appear in the computers of both the automatic transmission and the engine. This is how you have to deal with them.
Here is a summary of the automatic transmission diagnostics. Diagnostic codes are described in more detail. The best results in diagnosing the mechanical part of the automatic transmission are obtained by connecting a pressure gauge to the box and checking the line pressure in all modes. But this requires special equipment and must be carried out in specialized workshops.
I deliberately do not interpret the results obtained here, since this is already the business of auto repair specialists. I will only note that if it does not meet the normal parameters, it is better not to buy a car with such an automatic machine, since it needs repair. However, if you really want to, then you can. But then you need to get a discount on its repair. In Vladivostok, repairing an automatic machine costs between $200 and $500. In some services up to $ 1000, which, however, does not affect the quality of the repair. A used machine costs from $150. Installing it on a car - 1000 rubles. ATF will cost about 100 ... 150 rubles per liter.
At the same time, it is also impossible to say that with a machine gun that has passed all the tests you will drive for at least a year.
To protect the automatic transmission, Japanese engineers have provided a number of restrictions in the operating mode:
4th gear (OD) is disengaged when the oil temperature is below -10 degrees.
no lockup at oil temperatures below +40 degrees.
From these two points it follows that the precautions for operating the automatic transmission at low temperatures have already been taken and IMHO there is no need to warm up the automatic transmission. Yes, and it is almost impossible to do this at idle. Firstly, the oil pressure at idle is about 4.5 versus 11 when moving forward and 18 when reversing. Secondly, the oil passes through the engine cooling system, which is still locked to the internal circuit and is in the coldest state, that is, the cooling is more intense.
This does not mean that you can drive sharply on a cold box. Since the oil is still cold and more viscous, switching occurs with greater delays and consequently with disc or belt slippage. Which is not good, but not fatal either. The number of switching operations on a cold box should be limited. For example, moving in the mode hold, or even 1h->2h->3h until you leave the garage or parking lot and the engine is still warm.
The criterion for warming up the box to normal mode can be the time the gear is switched on. If it is normal, then the machine is warm enough. Let me remind you that on Mazda it is 0.5 ... 1 s, and on Toyota 0.8 ... 1.3 s.
The very formulation of the question in relation to automatic transmission is incorrect.
The main element of an automatic transmission is not a set of shafts with pairs of gears that engage during mechanical movement of the gear selector, as is done on mechanical transmissions. The basis of an automatic transmission is a planetary gearbox. And just one of the properties of planetary gearboxes is that when the clutch or brake band is activated, smooth
change in the gear ratio of the box during the time of full operation (0.5 ... 1 s). And, accordingly, the transmission of torque from the engine to the wheels does not stop even for a fraction of a second.
All of the above applies to engine braking on a car with automatic transmission. That is, the braking force changes smoothly, without interruption for a fraction of a second, with the appropriate actions of the driver.
4-speed automatic transmission installed on Audi, VW, Skoda. These boxes are electronic, in many respects their work depends on the electronic units of the automatic transmission, internal combustion engine, ABS, sensors located on the engine and box, and therefore require preliminary computer diagnostics. If, as a result of diagnostics, error codes are not detected, and the automatic transmission does not work correctly, then repair is required. Either the errors indicate that the mechanical problem is a repair.
We remove, disassemble, there are no subtleties in disassembling these automatic transmissions, except for one. In 097 and 01N, there are 2 plugs in the back, one covers the gearbox input shaft nut in the picture - 4198. We need the second one, which we knock out with a hammer and chisel.
Photo 097 and 01N
01P - the same, only the 885 shaft is short, it is knocked out with a hammer and a chisel (a very powerful stopper). The 75 shank is not like that. Instead, the cover is fastened with 3 bolts. Under it, you need to remove the stopper and speedometer gear. After that, you can unscrew and remove the bell.
All these automatic transmissions have a different location of the gearbox, and the mechanical part has 2 types: 096, 097, 098, 099 and 01M, 01N, 01P
The difference is that in 096, 097, 098, 099 gearboxes, the H/T lock is made in the automatic transmission itself, shaft 22 in the picture is inserted into the H/T splines and is rigidly connected to the crankshaft through damper springs. In the 2nd variant, the piston that blocks the g/t is in itself and is controlled by oil pressure through the turbine and reactor shafts.
This part is the same for all types:
26, 43 - Oil pump (there is a difference - 2 types)
839 - Piston 2 and 4 gears
593, 829 - 2nd and 4th clutch package
78 - Clutch housing reverse-input
762 - Clutch piston reverse-input
189, 975 - Reverse-input clutch package
7185 - shims.
White was placed on 096, 097, 098, 099, and green on 01.
61 - Clutch housing forward with a turbine shaft, works in 1, 2 and 3 gears
22 - Clutch housing 3-4 gears. It also performs the function of blocking g / t.
61 - Clutch housing forward, works in 1, 2 and 3 gears
267 - Clutch piston forward
607, 211 - Forward clutch package
22 - Clutch housing 3-4 gears with a turbine shaft.
809 - Clutch piston 3-4 gears.
It's all similar:
792, 445 - Clutch package 3-4 gears
824 - Overrunning clutch separator.
346 - Reverse clutch piston
384, 882 - Reverse clutch package
planetary gear
27 - Planetary gear
74 - Epicycle
Note: the reducer is a separate container. The oil is here.
What changes without fail when repairing this automatic transmission:
Things to watch out for (often fails):
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You can download manuals for these automatic transmissions .
When repairing this automatic transmission, it is imperative to develop an electric pressure regulator, the piston in it must move freely or be replaced with a new one.
Today, many novice drivers, and even experienced motorists, choose a car for themselves. Beginners, as a rule, are often afraid of the very need to shift gears while driving, but experienced drivers simply appreciated the possibilities of calm and measured driving in a car equipped with automatic transmission. But when a beginner buys his personal car, he often does not know how to properly operate the "automatic". Unfortunately, this is not taught in driving schools, but traffic safety and the life of the gearbox mechanisms depend on this. Let's see how you need to operate the automatic transmission so that you do not have problems with it in the future.
Types of automatic transmissions
Before talking about how to drive an automatic transmission, it is necessary to consider the types of units with which manufacturers complete modern cars. Depending on what kind of box this or that box belongs to, how to use it also depends.
Torque converter gearbox
This is probably the most popular and classic solution. Torque converter models are equipped with most of all cars that are produced today. It was with this design that the promotion of automatic transmission to the masses began.
It must be said that the torque converter itself is not actually an integral part of the shift mechanism. Its function is the clutch on the "automatic" box, that is, the torque converter transmits torque from the engine to the wheels in the process of starting the car.
The engine and mechanism of the "machine" do not have rigid connections with each other. The rotational energy is transmitted using a special gear oil - it constantly circulates in a vicious circle under high pressure. This circuit allows the engine to run in gear when the machine is stationary.
More precisely, the valve body is responsible for switching, but this is a general case. In modern models, operating modes are determined by electronics. So, the gearbox can operate in standard, sport or economy mode.
The mechanical part of such boxes is reliable and quite amenable to repair. The hydroblock is a weak spot. If its valves do not work properly, then the driver will face unpleasant effects. But in the event of a breakdown, there are automatic transmission spare parts in stores, although the repair itself will be quite expensive.
As for the driving characteristics of cars equipped with torque converter gearboxes, they depend on the electronics settings - this is an automatic transmission speed sensor and other sensors, and as a result of these readings, a command is sent to switch at the right time.
Previously, such boxes were offered with only four gears. Modern models have 5, 6, 7 and even 8 gears. According to manufacturers, a higher number of gears improves dynamic performance, smoothness of movement and shifting and fuel economy.
stepless variator
By external signs, this technical solution does not differ from the traditional “machine”, but the principle of operation here is completely different. There are no gears here, and the system does not shift them. Gear ratios change constantly and without interruption - it does not depend on whether the speed decreases or the engine spins up. These boxes provide maximum smoothness of operation - this is comfort for the driver.
Another plus for which CVTs are so fond of drivers is the speed of work. This transmission does not waste time on the shift process - if it is necessary to pick up speed, it will immediately be at the maximum effective torque to give the car acceleration.
Automatic how to use
Consider the operating modes and operating rules for conventional traditional torque converter machines. They are installed on most vehicles.
The main modes of automatic transmission
To determine the basic rules of operation, you must first understand the modes of operation that these mechanisms offer.
For all cars with automatic transmission, without exception, the following modes are required - these are “P”, “R”, “D”, “N”. And so that the driver can select the desired mode, the box is equipped with a range selection lever. In appearance, it is practically no different from the selector. Its difference is that the process of changing gear is carried out in a straight line.
The modes are displayed on the control panel - this is very convenient, especially for novice drivers. While driving, there is no need to take your eyes off the road and lower your head to see what gear the car is in.
Automatic transmission mode "P" - In this mode, all elements of the car will turn off. It is worth moving into it only during long stops or parking. The motor is also started from this mode.
"R" - reverse gear. When this mode is selected, the machine will drive in reverse. It is recommended to turn on reverse gear only after the car has completely stopped; it is also important to remember: the rear is activated only when the brake is fully depressed. Any other algorithm of actions can cause significant harm to the transmission and motor. This is very important to know for all those who have an automatic transmission. How to use it correctly, experts and experienced drivers advise. Pay close attention to these tips, they will help a lot.
"N" - neutral, or neutral gear. In this position, the motor no longer transmits torque to the chassis and runs in idle mode. It is recommended to use this gear only for short stops. Also, do not include the box in the neutral position while driving. Some professionals advise towing a car in this mode. When the automatic transmission is in neutral, starting the engine is prohibited.
Automatic transmission modes
"D" - driving mode. When the box is in this position, the car moves forward. In this case, the gears are switched alternately in the process of pressing the gas pedal by the driver.
Automatic car can have 4, 5, 6, 7 and even 8 gears. The range selection lever on such cars can have several options for moving forward - these are “D3”, “D2”, “D1”. Designations can also be without a letter. These numbers indicate the available top gear.
In "D3" mode, the driver can use the first three gears. In these positions, braking is much more effective than in the usual "D". This mode is recommended to be used when it is simply impossible to drive without braking. Also, this transmission is effective during frequent descents or ascents.
"D2" is, respectively, only the first two gears. In this position, the box is transferred at speeds up to 50 km / h. Often this mode is used in difficult conditions - it can be a forest road or a mountain serpentine. In this position, the possibility of engine braking is used to the maximum. You also need to transfer the box to "D2" in traffic jams.
"D1" is only the first gear. In this position, automatic transmission is used if the car is difficult to accelerate above 25 km / h. An important tip for those who have an automatic transmission (how to use all its features): do not turn on this mode at high speeds, otherwise there will be a skid.
"0D" - elevated row. This is an extreme position. It should be used if the car has already gained speed from 75 to 110 km / h. It is recommended to leave the transmission when the speed has dropped to 70 km / h. This mode allows you to significantly reduce fuel consumption on highways.
You can turn on all these modes in any order while the car is moving. Now you can only look at the speedometer, and the tachometer is no longer needed.
Additional Modes
Most transmissions also have auxiliary modes of operation. This is a normal mode, sport, overdrive, winter and economical.
Normal mode is used under normal conditions. Economic allows you to achieve a smooth and quiet ride. In sports mode, the electronics use the engine to the maximum - the driver gets everything that the car is capable of, but you will have to forget about savings. Winter mode is designed for operation on slippery surfaces. The car pulls away not from the first, but from the second or even from the third gear.
These settings are often activated using separate buttons or switches. It must also be said that, despite all the benefits for drivers that an automatic transmission provides, drivers want to drive a car. There is nothing better than changing gears in your car. To solve this problem, Porsche engineers created the Tiptronic automatic transmission mode. This is a handmade imitation with a box. It allows you to manually upshift or downshift as needed.
Automatic how to ride
In the process of starting the car from a place, as well as when changing the direction of movement, the operation mode of the box is switched with the brake pressed. When changing the direction of movement, it is also not necessary to temporarily set the box to the neutral position.
If you need to stop at a traffic light, as well as in case of traffic jams, you should not set the selector to the neutral position. It is also not advised to do it on the descents. If the car is slipping, then you do not need to press hard on the gas - this is harmful. It is better to shift into lower gears and use the brake pedal to let the wheels spin slowly.
The remaining subtleties of working with automatic transmissions can only be comprehended with driving experience.
Operating rules
The first step is to press the brake pedal. Then the selector is put into driving mode. Next, you should release the parking should fall smoothly - the car will start moving. All switching and manipulations with the automatic transmission are done through the brake with the right foot.
To slow down, it is best to release the gas pedal - all gears will switch automatically.
The basic rule is no sudden accelerations, sharp braking, any sudden movements. This leads to wear and an increase in the distance between them. This can then lead to unpleasant jolts when shifting the automatic transmission.
Some professionals advise giving the box a rest. For example, when parking, you can let the car roll at idle, without gas. Only after that you can put pressure on the accelerator.
Automatic transmission: what not to do
It is strictly forbidden to load an unheated machine. Even if the positive air temperature is kept outside the car, the first kilometers are best overcome at low speeds - sharp accelerations and jerks are very harmful to the box. A novice driver should also remember that in order to fully warm up the automatic transmission, it takes more time than to warm up the power unit.
The automatic transmission is not intended for off-road and extreme use. Many modern gearboxes of a classic design do not like wheel slip. The best way to drive in this case is to avoid sudden acceleration on bad roads. If the car is stuck, a shovel will help - do not heavily load the transmission.
Also, experts do not recommend overloading classic automatic transmissions with high loads - the mechanisms overheat and, as a result, wear out more and faster. Towing trailers and other cars is a quick death for the machine.
In addition, you should not start cars equipped with automatic transmission from the "pusher". Although many motorists break this rule, it should be remembered here that this will not pass without a trace for the mechanism.
You also need to remember some features in switching. In the neutral position, you can stay, but subject to holding the brake pedal. In the neutral position, it is forbidden to turn off the power unit - this can only be done in the "Parking" position. It is forbidden to transfer the selector to "Parking" or to the "R" position while driving.
Typical malfunctions
Among typical malfunctions, experts distinguish a breakage of the backstage, oil leaks, problems with electronics and valve body. Sometimes the tachometer does not work. Also, sometimes there are problems with the torque converter, the engine speed sensor does not work.
If, when using the box, there are any difficulties when moving the lever, then these are signs of problems with the selector. To solve it, you need to replace the part - automatic transmission spare parts are available in automotive stores.
Often, many breakdowns occur due to oil leaks from the system. Often, automatic boxes leak from under the seals. It is necessary to inspect the units more often on a flyover or a viewing hole. If there are leaks, then this is a signal that urgent repair of the unit is necessary. If everything is done on time, then the problem can be solved by changing the oil and seals.
On some cars, a situation occurs that the tachometer does not work. If the speedometer also stops, then the automatic transmission may go into emergency operation. Often these problems are solved very, very simply. The problem lies in a special sensor. If you replace it or clean its contacts, then everything returns to its place. It is necessary to check the automatic transmission speed sensor. It is located on the body of the box.
Also, motorists are faced with incorrect operation of the automatic transmission due to problems in the electronics. Often the control unit incorrectly reads the revolutions for switching. The reason for this may be the engine speed sensor. Repairing the unit itself is pointless, but replacing the sensor and cables will help.
Very often the hydroblock fails. For example, this can happen if the driver incorrectly operated the transmission. If the car did not warm up in winter, then the valve body is very vulnerable. Problems with the hydraulic unit are often accompanied by various vibrations, some users diagnose shocks when switching automatic transmissions. In modern cars, the on-board computer will help you find out about this breakdown.
Operation of automatic transmission in winter
Most automatic transmission breakdowns happen in the winter. This is due to the negative impact of low temperatures on the resources of the system and the fact that the wheels slip on ice when starting off - this also does not have the best effect on the condition.
Before the onset of cold weather, the motorist should check the condition of the transmission fluid. If inclusions of metal shavings are noticed in it, if the liquid has darkened and become cloudy, then it should be replaced. As for the general procedure for changing oil and filters, for operation in our country it is recommended to do this every 30,000 km of the car's run.
If the car is stuck, then you should not use the "D" mode. In this case, downshifting will help. If there are no lowered ones, then the car is pulled forward and backward. But don't overdo it.
To avoid skidding when downshifting on a slippery road, for front-wheel drive cars you need to hold the accelerator pedal, on rear-wheel drive cars, on the contrary, release the pedal. It is better to use lower gears before turning.
That's all there is to say about what an automatic transmission is, how to use it, and what rules to follow. At first glance, it may seem that this is an extremely fastidious mechanism with a small working resource. However, subject to all these rules, this unit will live the entire life of the car and will delight its owner. Automatic transmissions allow you to completely immerse yourself in the driving process, without thinking about choosing the right gear - the computer has already taken care of this. If you service the transmission in time and do not load it beyond its capabilities, it will bring only positive emotions while using the car in various conditions.
