Russian roads although they get better with age, but not all. Especially rural off-road does not always contribute to the long life of the car's suspension. Sometimes fail and reliable nodes Korean cars, which have already survived several modifications by the manufacturer.

Not every driver knows what can knock on the Hyundai Solaris suspension, but having a little experience will allow you to figure out how to sort out the device and restore its performance with your own hands. In some cases, a video will help to refine it.

Most often, levers and shock absorbers require “care”, these are typical problem even for the upgraded node of new generation vehicles. When knocks appear, it is necessary to repair or refine the Hyundai Solaris suspension and replace the lever, which is easy to do in the garage.

For this you need:

• fix the rear set of wheels with anti-recoilers;
• loosen the nuts of the front wheels, lift them and fix them on the rack, then remove the wheels;
• unscrew the ball stud nut;
• disconnect lever from knuckle, remove the front bolt nut;
• pull the bolt out of the silent block;
• remove the rest of the fasteners and get the faulty lever;
• replace part and repeat reverse order all steps.

After the repair, it is advisable to check the wheel alignment at the service point, the cost of the service is low, and the traffic safety will have a significant impact. If, after changing the lever, the creaking and knocking did not stop, it is necessary to repair the front suspension shock absorber.

The first stage of work is similar to replacing the lever:

• open the hood and remove the shock absorber mounting nuts;
• remove the front wheel;
• remove the stabilizer pin;
• remove the fist, remove the rack and compress the spring with a clamp;
• replace pre-bled shock absorber;
• fix the springs seats, reassemble in reverse order.

Shock absorbers must be changed in pairs, after which it is necessary to make a wheel alignment. Parts used may only be original.

Rear suspension

Rear suspension Do-it-yourself Hyundai Solaris can also be restored quickly enough, some drivers independently produce and upgrade it. Tuning or improvement does not always change the driving performance of the car, often it is due to the installed parts.

To replace spare parts, it is better to purchase according to the corresponding article numbers, which can be found using the car's VIN code in specialized services. To repair the rear stabilizer bar of the Hyundai Solaris or replace it, you will need standard set tools.

The Hyundai factory has already changed the suspension several times in its models, and most often the necessary modernization is associated only with the replacement of springs.

By studying the Hyundai Solaris rear suspension diagram, it can be established that the springs have their own classes and are marked with paint. When replacing, you need to install only the same parts, and of the same class that were installed earlier.

Some use VAZ production parts when replacing, but in this case it is impossible to guarantee high-quality suspension service. The replacement process does not differ from similar operations performed for the front suspension.

If shock absorbers, levers or springs can be replaced on their own, then if the bearings fail, you will have to change the entire assembly and do it better at the station Maintenance, where the masters know exactly what kind of rear suspension the Hyundai Solaris has, its control values, advantages and disadvantages and will be able to replace parts with jewelry accuracy.

The body of any car is not connected through metal to the chassis. This is done through rubber products. All in order to reduce the amplitude of oscillations, or even completely get rid of them. This provides another aspect - the possibility of unhindered movement of the suspension relative to the bearing body component. The idea is implemented in the design of the rear beam of many small cars.

What is the price of replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam of a Hyundai Solaris car and when to change them

The rear suspension includes not only a powerful torsion tube, also referred to as a beam. The entire depreciation system, including struts and springs, is tied to it. Trailing arms are also welded to it, which includes rubber-metal hinges. With the help of them, the entire rear hinge assembly is fixed from movement in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

Practice shows that the change of "silent" often does not correlate with mileage. They can become unusable both after 50,000 km and after 215,000 km. The best indicator that new parts need to be installed is one of the following:

1. Knocks when driving on rough roads, coming from the rear.
2. Steering effect rear axle.
3. Escape from the direct vector of the direction of movement.

Many motorists are interested in how much it will cost for a Hyundai Solaris to replace the silent blocks of the rear beam or the price of such a repair in a private workshop - it all depends on the region. So, in the outback at the dealer, the cost of work starts from 4,000 rubles. Within the limits of the capital, the official price tag runs up to 10,000 rubles.

Garage specialists in Moscow and St. Petersburg are ready to get down to business for 3,500 - 4,500 rubles. The same process for a private mechanic, say, in the Tver or Pskov region, in terms of time costs, will cost 2-2.5 hours, and in terms of money - 1,500-2,000 rubles.

What "silent" to buy

Along with the original blocks, the market offers for consideration the products of the following companies:

• Febest.
• Pivot Point.
• Sedem.
• X5 Resource.

Reviews say that the polyurethane counterparts of the last three firms are unnecessarily rigid. Febest fans of Hyundai Solaris do not recommend buying at all due to the fact that their resource sometimes does not even exceed 10,000 km.

For your information. The original rubber-to-metal joints have the code 55160 1R000. The amount for them is from 1,500 to 2,500 rubles per 1 piece.

We carry out the replacement of silent blocks of the rear beam with a Hyundai Solaris with our own hands: detailed instructions

The main difficulty in this repair operation is associated with the extrusion of the "silent" used in operation. In general, the operation is no more difficult than or diesel injectors. Work can be performed both on a dismantled beam and directly on the car - it all depends on the skill of the operator-mechanic. Let's take a look at both cases.

Change of rubber-metal joints on the machine

When starting work on a jacked up car, it must be properly secured against movement. The first gear engaged or the automatic selector switched to “P” and the stops placed under the front wheels are the right actions to immobilize the car.

A carefully planned do-it-yourself replacement of the silent blocks of the rear beam with a Solaris begins with the selection of tools. Wrenches for "19", a rubber-metal hinge remover and a spring remover will come in handy.


Work is performed alternately: first on the left, then on the right side, or vice versa. The technical process begins with unscrewing the wheel nuts. After the task is executed secure fixation back. Raising the wheel, we substitute stops or other home-made devices. Repeat the same steps with the other rear wheel. The process of hanging the rear beam is completed. The following are related operations on one of the sides:

• Remove fender liner.
• Dismantle the mount parking brake and brake pipe.
• Remove the ABS sensor.
• Jack up the beam and unscrew the bolts securing it to the body.
• Lower the rear suspension base.
• Use the key to "19" to disconnect the rack from bottom mount.
• Get the spring.
• Withdraw working side beams.

After that, the old silent block is pressed out using a special puller. Next, a new rubber-metal hinge is installed, and work is carried out in the reverse order, taking into account such a moment: the spring is installed after the shock absorber is installed. It is pre-compressed with the use of a device. Subsequent work is carried out on the other side in the same way.

Replacing a part with a removal of a beam

Often a transitional stage due to the fact that the rubber-to-metal joint is too tightly seated in trailing arm. The puller is not able to remove it, so you have to knock out the rubber bushing from the massive part of the rear suspension. This cannot be done directly on the car.

That is why the price of replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam of a Hyundai Solaris car is so high. Reviews note the triviality of the procedure, incomparable with By appearance their electrodes. But, at the same time, they emphasize the presence of high energy costs in its implementation.

Most of the beam removal process is described in the previous paragraph. It should be noted that the above technical process is carried out for both sides without alternate disassembly-assembly.

On machines with disc brake it remains only to release brake pipe from the bracket. According to the repair manual, this operation is performed by separating the nut and fitting. The consequences of this are the need to bleed the brake circuit. Folk experts have found a way to get around the manufacturer's advice: a grinder is cut in the ear and the line is freely disconnected from the beam. It remains to be dismantled stopping support and hang it in the arch on the wire.

Cars with drum rear brakes require disconnection of the line, because brake cylinder is on the beam. Under these conditions, it will also be necessary to remove the parking brake cable from the drum part. After reassembly the system is being flushed.

Eventually

Procedure self replacement silent blocks on Hyundai Solaris can be difficult in only one aspect: pressing out the rubber-metal hinge. This operation is complicated by the need to use a special puller. Sometimes he can't do it either. Then a hammer with a chisel comes to the rescue. Sometimes the part is sawn from the inside, then knocked out. Depending on the complexity of this transition, the method of performing the technical process is determined:

• If the result is achieved only by using a puller, it can be arranged directly on the car.
• If knocking out is required - only on the removed beam.

Replacement at official dealer will cost 4,000-10,000 rubles. A private specialist will do the work for 1,500-4,500 rubles. It is recommended to purchase the original silent block (55160 1R000). It costs between 1,500-2,500 rubles.

What is the rear suspension of the Hyundai Solaris? The question is quite interesting. To understand the principle of its operation, it is necessary to understand the device. This article is devoted to this issue. After familiarizing yourself with it, you may learn how to disassemble the suspension of the car yourself.

Components

The rear suspension allows the car to move smoothly and softens the bumps in the road. It must be admitted that the front suspension device is more complicated than the rear one, however, in this case also needs to be sorted out. Its structure is as follows:

1. The main element is a beam.
2. Lever attachment.
3. A device that acts as a stopper for a spring when compressed.
4. shock absorber.
5. Lever arm.
6. Stub node.
7. Lining located below the spring.
8. The spring itself.
9. Top lining.
10. Buffer washer.
11. Stubborn element.

The Hyundai Solaris uses a semi-independent suspension, with an elastic type beam, as well as a spring suspension, with installed shock absorbers.

The levers are equipped with such edges, on which the axles of the wheels are attached directly, separate brake elements and support brackets. Ahead, the levers have welded bushings, in which silent blocks are located, which act as a connecting part between the body and the beam. As for the elastic parts, in this case, their role is assigned to the springs.

In the Solaris suspension, one should highlight the fact that the spring rests directly through the gaskets of the rubber sample. Another one salient feature this vehicle lies in the smaller diameter of the lower turn, in comparison with the extreme upper one.

In any suspension, the springs are usually divided by class, depending on the stiffness parameters. To determine the class, the specific color of the part is used. Naturally, springs of the same class and the same model must be used on both sides. During replacement, it is not recommended to install elements other than those that were previously installed. The role of the limiter during compression is performed by the buffers listed under No3. They are installed in the middle of the upper support.

Shock absorbers have special eyelets both below and above. Hinges made of rubber and metal are pressed into them. Inside the hinge there is a sleeve through which a bolt is inserted, allowing you to attach the shock absorber to the body. The front suspension of the Hyundai Solaris car is equipped with a bearing located in the hub assembly. The advantage is that there is no need to regularly put lubricant in it. If the device is out of order, it is simply changed.

The rear wheels are always in one position, which is provided by the design - there is no way to regulate them. They are only checked by specialized equipment in order to identify discrepancies with the norm. In a situation where the difference with the nominal values ​​\u200b\u200bis too large, it will be necessary to perform diagnostics of the working elements.

Additional Information

Based on the above data, one can guess that the dismantling and installation individual parts suspension in Hyundai should not cause difficulties. The main thing is to have the proper equipment.

Today, many craftsmen are engaged in suspension refinement. Similar works consist in installing new parts more High Quality. Often they put reinforced springs, based on the fact that domestic roads cannot boast of high quality.

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Examination technical condition rear suspension parts on a Hyundai Solaris car

Carry out all checks and work from the bottom of the car mounted on a lift or inspection ditch (with the rear wheels hung out).

Find out if there are cracks on the suspension parts or traces of rubbing against road obstacles or the body, deformation of the rear body parts at the attachment points of the suspension units and parts.

Check the condition of rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks), suspension springs and shock absorbers.

Rubber-metal hinges and rubber parts must be replaced in case of ruptures and one-sided buckling of rubber, as well as when cutting their end surfaces.

On rubber suspension parts are not allowed:

• signs of rubber aging;
• mechanical damage.

On rubber-metal hinges are not allowed:

• signs of aging, cracks;
• one-sided buckling of the rubber array.

Replace defective parts.

Check if there is mechanical damage(deformations, cracks, etc.) suspension elements.

When checking, carefully inspect the following.

1. Rubber grommets and tightening threaded connections lower...

2. ... and upper shock absorber mounts.

3. Check up a condition of protective covers of shock-absorbers.

4. Lower the cover and check the shock absorber rod. Fluid leaks along the stem are not allowed.

5. Rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) of the rear suspension beam.

6. Rear wheel hub bearings.

7. Springs and buffers of the rear suspension compression stroke.

Helpful advice

Pay attention to the exhaust system. Extraneous knocks published by her are often mistaken for a knock in the rear suspension. The use of non-standard parts or the breakage of the muffler suspension elements can cause a strong knock, especially when re-gassing. When checking, stop the engine, carefully inspect the exhaust system, check the reliability of the mounting and suspension of the muffler. Holding on to the end exhaust pipe, shake the muffler up and down and from side to side - there should be no knocks.

We are learning to understand each other. But for this you need to talk, share. The time for closure is over. It's time to communicate and express yourself in life! We are who we are. But you can't stand still indefinitely. Need to be better! overcome yourself! Believe in yourself! Set the bar high for yourself and achieve your goals! This is the only way to improve your life and the lives of loved ones!

Do not look at what is happening around. Look inside yourself! try to understand yourself! Try to understand what drives you and if you don't like what drives you, change it. Set yourself up so that you are the engine of your life and not your environment. Then you will become a person and you will be respected.

A noble goal is to work on yourself! After all, by working on yourself, you change the world around you. To get better, you have to strive for the better. Not to desire, but to dream, not to indulge, but to love. Find your place in life and benefit society, benefit the people around you.

and no less popular Kia Rio.

Korean cars that have swept our market with a wave. These brands have become popular in a very short period of time. And it's not simple words. The motto of these cars is, first of all, an innovative design, of course, beautiful harmonious forms. Exterior and interior that enlivened the entire spectrum cars setting the bar high. And as time goes by, we see how a successful design is being introduced to other brands in one form or another, there is a trace. So the move was right. But the base platform on both Solaris and Rio was not so successful. And the triple modernization did not fix the main suspension diseases. And therefore, buying a car for more than half a million, I would like to have a car with an adequate suspension. Unfortunately, there are two troubles in Russia. I won’t talk about the first one, but the second one is our roads. And here the joy of buying passes quickly. But the car is good. Can it be customized? Why not? Of course you can and should. After all, we buy different pabrekushki for beauty or convenience, sometimes giving a lot of money for it. Why can't you improve your car in terms of its behavior on the road? Isn't that the most important thing?

Need stability on the track? No problem. Shouldn't there be a swing? This is allowed. Suspension is flimsy and breaks through? And here is the solution. Small things hammering the fifth point? This can be solved and noise from bumps in the road can be reduced. This can all be resolved. And your obedient servant decided it for himself. With interest, I studied and did this for almost three years. And he brought out a certain concept in which it is possible to improve the suspension of this platform not in mock-up slang in words, but in real deeds, real developments and tests. Checking the time and reviews of the owners of those who decided to remake the suspension. It's been over three years. Year 2015. On this moment Is the problem fixed at the factory? Formally yes! They removed the buildup of the stern, strengthened the suspension. But there is no need to be delusional about this. The problem hasn't been resolved yet. Why do I say that previous changes there was little result, and the last reincarnation even aggravated the indicators. And this is not an unfounded statement, but the result of working with correspondence. Real reviews owners on sites, letters that I receive in in large numbers have similar suspension complaints. The main thing is insufficient stability at speeds of more than 100 km h. Not enough precise management when performing maneuvers. Unpredictable behavior of the car on bumps. Weakness of the suspension to breakdown. There is a thread on this forumI think my Hyundai Solaris has bad suspension! http://solaris-club.net/forum/showthread.php?t=6178 and for the sake of justice I will say that there is another topicI believe on my Solaris good suspension! http://solaris-club.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5498 But there are 127 entries in the first topic and 123 in the second, but the views in the first are 56 thousand. In the second, 36 thousand. This suggests that this problem is more likely than not. Moreover, not everyone wants to simply and truthfully write about their car because so much money has been given. And in terms of the number of views, the first one is one and a half times higher. This indicates that there is a problem. Another proof that there is a problem Interest in the topicAdaptation of the running gear of Solaris to Russian roads http://solaris-club.net/forum/showthread.php?t=6394 over 3000 posts and over 450,000 views! As well as the topic on the site " Kia Rio Club Russia"I'm redoing the suspension http://kia-rio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2508 .Of course, you can ignore the problem and you can have what you have.But don't you want to have the best if there is such an opportunity?

And so let's start with what happened. It all started with Solarisiv from the first batch produced in 2010-2012. The car is very good beautiful reliable and simple, inexpensive to maintain.
I have a car from this batch. Even when buying and driving, I noticed that the stern of the Solaris gallops on bumps, especially unpleasantly swinging on the waves. But the car is new rose-colored glasses and this is the first foreign car. It differed significantly in the flow of cars with its flowing lines, and now many manufacturers have already picked up this design to one degree or another. But Solaris is first enough inexpensive car with great design. But back to the core of the problem. Even at the very beginning on the forumshttp://solaris-club.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=10 began to express their indignation at the suspension, at the beginning I even defended the suspension. But life put everything in its place. When spring came and the road opened its charms, the first thing that I experienced was the weakness of the suspension to breakdown, and the front and rear suspensions easily broke through at low speeds. Therefore, it was necessary to constantly control the speed of movement. If, for some reason, the speed was a little higher, then a strong breakdown followed, especially the front suspension. Another fact turned out to be the buildup of the stern of the car on the waves. Once, entering a turn on a wave, I felt a stall in the skid of the stern. The car swerved outward. then abruptly threw in the other direction and so up to three times. And the speed was no more than 80 km / h. After this incident, I became afraid to drive fast if there were waves and bumps on the roads. It was interesting to see how classic vases! overtake easily. And the front-wheel drive vases generally made overtaking effortlessly. Less than two months after the purchase came disappointment. How can you buy a car for a decent amount of 500 thousand. With excellent and enough powerful engine good dynamics and declared speed in 190km h
in reality, it's probably ideal road conditions. So it turned out another very unpleasant drawback of the suspension, this is not the ability to keep the car on a straight line with a side wind, when meeting with trucks, the car was thrown along the highway, I had to constantly taxi. At the same time, the speed dropped sharply, just driving is really scary and not safe. At the same time, the forum literally exploded indignation about the suspension. Neither the factory nor the OD. no one has given a real sober answer to this question. There was no revocable company either, but most of all, the motto that the Solaris suspension was adapted to Russian roads sounded like a mockery. Many owners quickly sold their cars second hand in an attempt to hide the true reason for the sale. Many simply resigned themselves to this problem. I also almost sold the car but it was my dream and therefore I decided to change the suspension and its operation myself.

When I looked under the bottom of the car I was very surprised. Why did the designers fill up the bottom of the shock absorbers to the beam, removing them from the wheel axle?
This suspension is compact and its shock absorbers do not occupy a niche in the trunk. But is it good? When the arm of the lever is the spring, the mass of the wheel hub creates inertia capable of swinging the lever.
How will the shock absorber work at this angle?

W shock absorber factory position, stock position. The photo shows that the wheel axle is far behind the lower shock absorber mount.
As a result of this, a buildup occurs.

So I started looking for and solving the problems of the Solaris suspension. Development and testing of various shock absorber mounting designs, selection and manufacture of springs. Installation of additional fenders. And finally, the installation of a stabilizer on the rear suspension. All this took two and a half years. I reflected all the modernization in the topic on the forum "Hyundai-Solaris" Club Russia. In the first topic "I'm upgrading the Solaris suspension"http://solaris-club.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4183 the rating of the topic was very high, then when the problem only went beyond the rear suspension, I closed this topic and started a new one Adapting the Hyundai Solaris chassis to Russian roadshttp://solaris-club.net/forum/showthread.php?t=6394 where I fully disclosed the progress of research to improve the suspension. I had a great desire to solve the problem and correct the design flaw. And I succeeded.
Before, I studied the parameters of the factory stock suspension well.

And so let's start with the fact that I first changed the angle of the shock absorbers that set them to a vertical position and solved the problem of stern swinging. She stopped.
Further, I repeatedly changed the design of the mounts and created mounts with adjustable stiffness and suspension travel length.

Brackets with variable geometry in 4 positions. 1.Comfort 2.Norma 3.Sport 4.Super sport

Rationale for the transfer of the lower part of the shock absorbers.
When the shock absorber has a deviation from the vertical position, the load on it increases in direct proportion and the inertia force of the arm mass movement increases in direct proportion.
This is a physical quantity caused by the geometric arrangement of the shock absorber itself. A lot depends on this. If the shock absorber is installed vertically, the suspension travel will decrease, but the inertial forces of the mass and the load on the shock absorber itself will decrease. The 4-position mount gives the car owner the choice to set the required suspension stiffness, thereby sharpening the car for themselves. With a change in angle, the behavior of the car changes on the road, highway and on a country road.
The kinematics of the suspension with tilted shock absorbers, especially from the center of the wheel axle, creates mass on the shoulder; during movements, mass inertia is created. The shock absorber cannot adequately dampen vibrations if it is not fully clamped. In this case, the load on the silent blocks increases. In fact, the shock absorbers are extinguished on a fracture of the shoulder by turning out the silent blocks.
A straight shock has longer travel, but it completely holds the arm at its end where the axle is centered. The damper is easier to hold and compensates for any fluctuations, both small and large. It works correctly, for a long time. Example Modernized field. In front of her was a field in which the shock absorbers were at an angle, she pretty much jumped. On new car shock absorbers stand vertically and they have big move, the car really stopped jumping over bumps, the galloping effect disappeared. Compact suspension Hyundai Hyundai Solaris, Kia-rio, Kia-Venga, Kia-Cerato previous, Hyundai Elantra new, have similar rear beams and tilt shock absorbers, they all have in varying degrees the effect of galloping, the buildup of the stern, this is especially evident in the loaded state. Changing the angle changes how the car behaves on the road. Why do you think many changed shock absorbers more than once! On rigid, semi-rigid, shock absorbers were eventually transferred to a more vertical position, because the law of physics works here. It is better to hold a bucket in your hand than on a stick in front of you. Even if you are strong. Then carrying a bucket on a stick, it will swing, twisting the arm. In our case, silent blocks. Carrying a bucket in your hand, nothing can turn out, everything here depends on the strength of the rapist, that is, on the resistance force of the shock absorber. This is a simple law. The one who performs it spends less energy. Not fulfilling the geometry of the kinematics promises an overvoltage of the nodes and an inferior work of the suspension.

Justification for replacing the springs.

Stock factory springs in the form in which they are on the car (let's start with the front ones) They are barrel-shaped and only 4.7 turns of which 3 turns fully work. And although the designers made full use of the shape of the springs, forcing them to work along the entire length, this turned out to be extremely insufficient. And this problem has not been solved to this day! The spring has stretched turns far from each other. When such a suspension is compressed, the spring bar is subjected to excessive twisting, excessive overstressing of the metal, as a result, less plasticity and, at the same time, elasticity in compression. Such springs lose their load resistance properties very quickly. they just as quickly sit down, reducing the already small ground clearance.

Front spring 2010-2011

Front spring 2014-2016

The spring itself has a length of 4.7 vic and a bar thickness of 12 mm
Such a spring holds the body, but with an instantaneous load, for example, an attack on an obstacle, it easily bends like an old spring sofa, hence the breakdown of the suspension, the inability to normally elastically hold the body on bumps and when exposed to air currents. Through research and testing, I was able to obtain two types of springs capable of performing their functions well within this suspension. These are spring kits"Cab", "Universal", "Cross", "Nature", "Sport-DS" "Rural option"made from standard rear springs 06 models of Orlovsky and Vazovsky production. Having a length of 5.3 to 6.75 turns, depending on the clearance at the request of the customer.

These springs have a cylindrical shape with a bar thickness of 13 mm and with a number of 6 turns they have 5 working turns.
Cylindrical springs along the entire length have equal loading characteristics on coils, unlike barrel springs, which were invented to save metal.
Barrel-shaped have a small diameter at the base and a large diameter in the center. Such a spring works mainly due to its central part. Where the coil decreases in diameter, the spring works much less with an equal load on the coil. In turn, this barrel-shaped spring is more vulnerable to loading, and coils of small diameter sag faster over time, reducing the clearance, yet another such spring can break off on a small coil.
In this case, the coil spring compares favorably with its performance from the stock one, it has large quantity working coils, during compression, the resistance increases in direct proportion to the load, preventing breakdown of the suspension. Such a spring with a slightly smaller diameter quickly calms down without phantom vibrations. Therefore, there will be no swing.
By adding a normal pillow with a bandage to the design instead of the stock rubber, we get a very good result. Softness + better sound insulation.

And the view itself at the rack with such a spring is beautiful, the spring stands exactly without distortions and works out correctly.

Factory stock rear suspension springs have 6.25 turns of which 4.75 are working turns. Bar thickness is 10.5mm on 2012 models after the February 11mm upgrade. with the same number of turns. Why few turns? There is little space for the spring itself due to the compactness of the suspension, to prevent the coils from touching. But is this an excuse for the end user? Especially the first 10.5mm springs are very weak. Even with a small load on the car, breakdowns of the rear suspension are a constant thing. And if you load it to the maximum, the car will simply knock on the bumpers endlessly, while you can move, if only very slowly.

Rear springs 2010-2011

Rear springs 2014-2016

Of course, the number of working turns of 4.75 is extremely insufficient. as well as the thickness of the rod itself. The spring is very similar in performance to the front spring. It is not elastic enough, and with a larger bar thickness, it is not plastic enough. Studying these indicators, I came to the conclusion that the best that can be installed is the prepared VAZ 08 springs with rubber bands from the 06 front suspension from the top and 08 pillows from the bottom. And also in the set "Carrier" the rear spring of the VAZ 2106 of the VAZ production is used. The number of spring turns is from 8 to 8.8 with 6.6-7 working turns. The spring is cylindrical with a smaller diameter than the stock one. but it installs just sitting tight. Works silently. It has progressive features. At low speed the suspension is very soft. But with an increase in stroke with a greater compression of the spring, its resistance sharply increases, thereby preventing the suspension from breaking through. Also, when loading, the depreciation readings remain on top. Both empty and loaded car are equally comfortable. At speed, small things are overcome in flight and large obstacles do not break through the soda suspension, only a slight push that does not affect handling. With these springs, the suspension has less tendency to bounce.

Prepared rear suspension springs without lifting. The thickness of the bar is 11.2 mm; the number of turns is from 8 to 8.8, depending on the lift.
After installing the brackets with adjustable damper stiffness, as well as replacing the springs, the car is transformed, the suspension becomes elastic but not rigid in its concept.
The car is pleasant to drive, and he is not afraid of the road. Increasing average speed and the control voltage is reduced. This is especially noticeable on a long journey.

Another very important improvement in stability is provided by a stabilizer mounted on rear beam. At the moment, I have developed a complete design of such I make it from front stabilizer vaz 2108-2110 is fastened with clamps to the beam with the ends to special fastening twisted to the spring cup. The stabilizer greatly improves the stability of the car on the track when cornering and maneuvering. Dramatically increases resistance to side wind and oncoming freight transport.

Mounting the stabilizer through a rubber bracket. Fastening to the beam with a clamp and a rubber bushing.
If the vehicle is equipped complete set modernization, he is the king of the road, summer winter autumn, he will never let you down.

Factory upgrade

With the advent of problems with the buildup of the stern at Solaris, the designers installed stiffer shock absorbers on the back of the car. The first shock absorbers are the softest are designated L-000, the second shock absorbers are designated L-001, they are now marked with a yellow mark, shock absorbers are 10% stiffer in compression. This was after the August 2011 modernization.

The rear suspension began to sway less on the waves, but still the vibrations remained, as did the suspension breakdown, and stability improved only slightly. The same shock absorbers began to be installed on the first Kia Rio models. By emphasizing that there will be no problems with the suspension with the KIA-Rio. Kia is not Solaris. Although this is not so, the base is absolutely the same. And the problem came to light a little later when the owners tasted the car on the go. On tests in the magazine "Behind the wheel" They complained about the lack of intelligibility of control. But it really is, except for the rear shock absorbers, nothing has changed in the design.After another complaint from the consumer, another attempt was made to modernize the Solaris suspension and already kia Rio. This Modernization is usually called after the February. As I predicted, the designers went on easy way. clamped down rear shock absorbers making them more rigid in compression and in tension. Such shock absorbers received the designation L-002, they began to apply a green mark.

The front dampers are also set to be stiffer in compression. If the first racks had a groove on which the pillow was put on and did not turn, then the usual threads were installed on the later racks and the pillows simply had a regular hole. Another difference, if the rack of the first releases was attached to the top with a plate with a thin rubber band that did not touch the body, then after the February version it already had a thicker rubber band pressing the plate to the body while holding the rack tightly. In the first versions, there was a gap, and when a jump or a deep hole was made, the stand rattled while hanging on the plate. On the other hand, a not tightly pressed plate made it possible to transmit less vibration from the engine and transmission to the body. And also had a more silent operation of the suspension in the usual aisles. New suspension became more rigid and noisy in relation to the first two. Still installed on it rear springs with a larger bar thickness of 11mm instead of 10.5 on the first models. Considering that the same number of turns remained, the suspension became oak. If the first Solaris could be easily shaken by hand, then after February it was simply not possible to push the stern of the car, even at first the owners boasted of this. But a car not UAZ. Rear suspension breakdowns have decreased, the car has become more stable due to greater rigidity. Shock absorbers began to dampen all vibrations. But the fact is that "Solaris and Kia" are fairly light cars when driving over small bumps in the suspension, they practically do not work, depreciation comes from rubber.
Although on the track high speed the car began to stand an order of magnitude better, to the detriment of comfort. The noise from the suspension was also added, because now the shock absorbers began to work and resist the advanced pushes on the body in compression. After some time, it turned out that the front suspension breaks through almost the same way as on the first models. In windy weather, it is difficult for a lighter car to keep on a given trajectory.

And of course the experts presented the suspension in at its best at the training ground where the tractor at speed will keep the road perfectly. aligned waves are not joints, not small irregularities from which the cabin is filled with a roar and the fifth point reads small things. especially it gets on the track.

Take a ride on a patched road where there are pits and bumps and rose-colored glasses will quickly fly off. The suspension should work out small things well. keeping the lever from breakdown on serious obstacles. a car of this category with such a suspension deserves the best! And I have proven this time and time again. By my example and by those who followed my advice. Solaris was labeled weak in the suspension of the car. And an explanation like what do you want for that kind of money? And everyone fell for it? Doesn't this car deserve better? Is it not possible to bring to mind undercarriage in the form in which it already exists? I will say that more is needed. And those who have already done it do not get heavy about it a little. How many bells and whistles that are essentially necessary are put on a car, paying huge sums without changing the essence. After all, a car is first of all a movement, this movement must be confident, accurate and predictable. It should give pleasure, so that the owner feels completely confident behind the wheel, so that the car is not a jellyfish Gorgon dancing on the road and is not a stool that shakes out the intestines. The car must be completely subordinate to the driver, then and only then it will be safe car. Merging into one whole with the car, it is as if he feels the road with his hands, choosing the desired trajectory of movement. Maneuvers, overtaking, rearrangements should all take place in flight. So that when performing a maneuver, the driver clearly feels the situation, and in right moment made the necessary decision so that his actions did not lead to a loss of control. Stability, comfort, carrying capacity. Here are the main indicators.

07/14/2014 It's been over three years And nothing has changed. An attempt at another improvement. The front suspension of Solaris and Kia Rio is now equipped with "Reinforced" springs. What is the difference between such an upgrade. It seemed that an additional 1 mm of the rod should make the suspension tighter and more resistant to the realities of our roads. Instead of the standard 12 mm and later 12.2 mm, the spring bar has become thicker, namely 13 mm. But the shape of the spring remained the same, moreover, the spring was made lower. It is lower than the first sample by 10 mm and still the same 3.5 working turns. But the declared ground clearance of 160mm was preserved.

On the right spring 2011 On the left spring 2014 removed the cambric at the bottom of the spring. Here is such a difference.

By strengthening the spring, they made it shorter. What's the secret? Suspension settings remain the same. If the spring of the previous version was more charged in a higher tension, now, in view of the shorter spring, the suspension has the same travel, only it has become stiffer in addition. The ancestor now reads small things well. That installed cambric at the bottom of the spring damper makes the suspension a little quieter, but comfort suffers greatly from stiffness. And suspension breakdowns remained the same as they were. After all, miracles do not happen in this course suspension can not make the suspension and resistant and comfortable. Well, if you do not raise it, thereby add one and a half to two centimeters of clearance, which is so lacking when hitting an obstacle. At one time, your obedient servant cut not an ode to a pair of springs. And I did the same in the stock version with a spring of 13 mm thick bar. The suspension breaks. Declared 160mm in fact, the suspension leaves 80 mm of compression)))) And then bang! And at speed, even when the car is not loaded, this is a direct breakdown with a blow to the entire body. It lacks quite a bit of some 20mm, and then even if there is a breakdown, but on a serious obstacle, and it will only be a touch and not a blow with a sledgehammer. Therefore, all the kits that I offer have a degree of suspension travel reserve for breakdown. from 15 to 28 mm. In this kinematics with these racks it's the best option. So if you change something, you need to completely rework the suspension kinematics and use racks with big move. But it is not easy and it requires investment. Last improvement it's a step back. A shorter spring does not solve the problem, and stability worsens because when the strut is opened, the top turns out to be empty, hence when turning rolls, in windy weather, unstable straight line retention. Well, we ourselves will improve the suspension. Moreover, it is not difficult to do this. Otherwise, both Solaris and Kia Rio are very good cars, many nodes run for a long time, but more on that in another section. Something like that.

Is there an alternative? Yes, she is! And she time-tested months of testing.