Priora electric power steering at what speed is turned off. We repair the electric power steering on the Priore with our own hands: what the doctor ordered

Hydraulic and electric power steering are designed to relieve the effort that the driver makes when turning the steering wheel. The EUR is a more advanced mechanism compared to the power steering, as it uses an electric drive. There is no oil or other hydraulic components in the system, which increases its reliability. Usually, AvtoVAZ engineers install EUR on passenger cars, less often - power steering. Both types of power steering are found on the Lada Priore.

Steering diagram

The device and principle of operation of the steering mechanism Priora

On front-wheel drive vehicles, due to their design features, it is impossible to install a classic steering mechanism. The first thing engineers face is the lack of space. The standard mechanism cannot be supplied, even if a transverse engine is used instead of an in-line engine. For this reason, the classics, which are not distinguished by their modest dimensions, have been replaced by a compact steering rack, which transmits the force when turning the steering wheel to the front wheels.

To save as much space as possible, on Priora and many other cars, the rail is rigidly fixed on the front shield of the engine compartment - between the engine and the passenger compartment. It connects to the steering column, which goes into the cabin and ends with the steering wheel. The steering rack is a toothed metal rod. Its teeth engage with the steering wheel drive in the form of a shaft. They are located relative to each other at right angles. This is an advanced worm drive.

The driver rotates the steering wheel along with the shaft, the teeth of which move the steering rack inside the casing, engaging with the toothed rod. There are holes in the rack housing through which the steering tips (rods) are connected. In the center of the rail itself there are holes for attaching these tips, which are attached to the steering knuckles of the front wheel rack by means of rods and special levers.

Design and operation features of power steering and EUR

Either hydraulic or electric power steering can be used to facilitate steering and increase comfort. Both amps have their pros and cons.

Structurally, power steering is a system of high and low pressure hoses containing oil driven by a pump. The hydraulic booster fluid must be poured into a reservoir near the pump. It only works when the engine is running. The driver turns the steering wheel, and at this time, the liquid through the distributor under pressure created by the pump enters the steering mechanism. It enters the working cylinder, presses on the piston, which begins to move, and facilitates the rotation of the steering wheel. With rectilinear movement, the liquid flows back into the system tank.

power steering scheme

Advantages and disadvantages of power steering

In the case of a hydraulic booster, the main disadvantage is the bulkiness of the entire system. But it is cheaper to manufacture and maintain, and this affects the price of the car. At the moment, power steering is found mainly on budget-class cars, which include Priora. An amplifier of this type is also installed on expensive powerful SUVs. This is explained by the fact that the power steering is capable of transmitting more torque transmission power to the steering. In this regard, he outperforms the electric amplifier, but there are still more disadvantages:

1. In a car equipped with power steering, it is not recommended to hold the steering wheel in the extreme right or left position for more than 5 seconds. Otherwise, the oil in the power steering on the Priore starts to heat up, which can lead to system failure.
2. The mechanism requires constant monitoring of the oil level, inspection and replacement of drives, hoses, pump.
3. The pump depends on the operation of the engine, which means that it takes a certain percentage of power from the power plant. If the power steering does not work during rectilinear movement, this percentage of power is wasted.
4. Such a system does not imply setting operating modes depending on the speed of movement, the angle of rotation of the steering wheel.
5. At low speeds, steering sensitivity is good, but at high speeds it becomes less pronounced.

The engineers compensate for the last drawback by using a steering rack with a variable gear ratio. The power steering has already become an outdated system, designers are no longer engaged in its improvement.

The design of the electric amplifier

In terms of its design, the EUR is simpler than the power steering. It consists of an ECU, a torque sensor, a steering angle sensor and an electric motor. There are no hoses or fluids here. The electric motor is mounted directly on the steering rack itself, and the torque is transmitted to it by means of a torsion shaft built into the steering system.

In the case of the power steering, the force is facilitated by the liquid, and in the electric amplifier, the current strength is responsible for this. When the driver turns the steering wheel, the force is transferred to the steering rack. At this time, the torque sensor transmits data to the electronic control unit. The controller calculates how much current must be transferred to the electric motor in order to optimally facilitate the rotation of the steering wheel. Since the effort must be uniform, the speed of movement and the angle of rotation of the steering wheel are taken into account.

If the steering wheel is turned without moving the car or at a low speed, as when parking, the electric motor receives maximum current, the steering wheel turns easily. When driving at medium and high speed, such an effort is no longer required, and the controller supplies a lower current.

Pros and cons of EUR

The electric booster is a more modern system with a high potential for upgrading. It is not without flaws, but there are fewer than those of the GUR:

• high price,
• the electric motor cannot provide more power, therefore it is installed only on cars.

The disadvantages are leveled, as the design of the electric amplifier is constantly being improved.

The EUR has many advantages for Priora. The system is easy to maintain due to its simple design. The only part that needs to be inspected is the rolling bearing. The EUR mechanism has a more compact size and can be mounted on the steering shaft in the cabin, freeing up space in the engine compartment. Due to this, the durability of the structure increases, since there is no effect of temperature extremes and high humidity.

The electric booster does not take power from the engine, which saves fuel. The drive only works when the steering wheel is turned. The ECU is responsible for the operation of the amplifier, with which you can adjust the mode of operation of the EUR, taking into account the operating conditions of the car. For the electric booster, the extreme positions of the steering wheel are not terrible. Driving at high speed makes the EUR steering more sensitive.

Priora steering rack malfunctions

Problems with the functioning of the steering rack can be different. To identify them, it is not necessary to have a baggage of special knowledge, it is enough to periodically inspect the mechanism.

Large steering wheel play

If you turn off the engine and actively turn the steering wheel, there should be no extraneous sounds. When not only suspicious noises appear, but play is also observed, the cause of the problem may be a weakened stop of the spool or insufficient elasticity of the torsion bar. The steering wheel may play due to heavy wear of the silent blocks on which the steering rack is fixed. The same problem occurs when the angle of contact between the teeth and the screw is incorrect, the crankcase or shaft is bent, caused by damage or travel of the screw type bearing. To determine the malfunction, diagnostics of the rack bushing, steering rod joints and teeth will be required.

The appearance of knocks and heaviness when turning the steering wheel

The steering wheel becomes heavy due to the soured cardan, but most often it is a knock. There are a number of characteristic reasons for this phenomenon:

• noise occurs during the course of the vertical bearing shaft;
• excessive wear of the hinges and crankcase;
• the development of the resource of the bearing of the screw, bushing or teeth;
• a curved shaft or crankcase, as a result, the screw is adjacent to the teeth with an offset angle;
• wear of silent blocks;
• loose rail fastening;
• steering wheel play.

In any case, it will be necessary to carry out diagnostics, and if malfunctions are identified, it will be necessary to dismantle and repair the Priora steering rack with the replacement of worn elements.

Wear of the central tooth of the steering shaft

Gear wear is quite common. The main purpose of the steering shaft is to convert rotational motion into translational. For most cars, the development of the resource of the central teeth is typical. The reason is simple: traffic in city traffic is caused by driving in a straight line with small deviations of the trajectory to the left or right.

To determine the malfunction, you need to shake the steering wheel to the sides from the middle position. If knocks are heard, it is better to carry out further diagnostics at the service station. If the central tooth is excessively worn, the entire shaft must be replaced.

Problems in the operation of the hydraulic booster

All breakdowns of the Power Steering Priora, as well as the causes and methods for their elimination are listed in the table:

Malfunction	Cause	Remedy
When turning the steering wheel, there is a kickback (jolts in the opposite direction)	Worn or loose pump drive belt	Replacing or adjusting belt tension
It takes a lot of effort to turn the steering wheel.	Worn pump belt or loose tension. Low fluid level in reservoir. Clogged fluid reservoir filter. Low pump pressure or air lock in the system. Insufficient idle speed of the engine.	Adjust or replace drive belt. Add liquid to the tank. Replace or clean the filter. Replace pump. Remove airlock. Adjust idle.
More force is required to rotate the steering wheel in the middle position	Faulty pump or steering gear	Check, repair or replace the pump. Troubleshoot steering gear
More force is required to turn the steering wheel to one side	The pump is out of order	Pump repair or replacement
Steering is fuzzy	Not enough fluid in the reservoir or leaking. Air in the power steering system. Resource development.	Add fluid and repair leaks, if any. Remove airlock. Check steering components and replace if necessary. Replace tires.
It takes a lot of physical effort to turn the steering wheel quickly	Loose belt tension. Air in the system. Pump defective. Damage to steering gear parts. Floating idle.	Pull on the belt. Remove airlock. Replace pump if beyond repair. Check and repair steering gear components. Adjust idle.
Noise during power steering	Little liquid in the reservoir. The liquid is discharged through the safety valve (when the steering wheel is turned to the extreme position, a whistle is heard).	Add fluid and fix leak. Remove airlock. Check pump pressure, repair or replace part.
Steering wheel vibration	Airlock. Wheels out of balance or tires damaged.	Remove air. Balance wheels or change tires

In practical terms, power steering is often changed to a new one or to a known good one. The original device costs a lot, so they choose analogues. Models from Chinese manufacturers have established themselves as an inexpensive option of good quality.

Electric amplifier breakdowns

To diagnose a malfunction of an electric amplifier, first of all, it is necessary to determine the conditions under which the problem arose. There may be several of them:

• failure occurred after discharging and subsequent charging of the battery;
• after turning the steering wheel at a large angle;
• when performing a parking maneuver;
• when driving at speeds above 110 km/h.

Based on these reasons, we can conclude about the nature of the occurrence of malfunctions. Often the cause of a malfunction is the low voltage of the on-board network. For normal operation of the EUR, the voltage must be at least 13.5 V. First, the battery is checked. If it is working, it is possible that the on-board network was de-energized after the battery was removed for recharging. To resume work, sometimes it is enough to turn the steering wheel 5-6 times to the extreme positions and back.

If everything is in order with the battery, it is necessary to check the insulation of the wiring and connections for a short circuit. The EUR on Priore does not work in a constant mode, like a power steering. The maximum load on the electric motor occurs when the steering wheel rotates at low speed or the car is stationary, the minimum - when driving at speeds over 100 km / h. After reaching the mark of 110 km / h, the electric booster does not work at all.

If, while driving, when turning the steering wheel, a knock or other suspicious sounds are heard, the fastening nut may have loosened - it must be lubricated and tightened. To do this, you need to dismantle the apron under the steering wheel, remove the casing. Sometimes a situation may arise when the wheels turn spontaneously. This directly indicates a malfunction of the electric power steering control unit.

The main problem of the Lada Priora EUR is that, in order to reduce the cost of construction, a high-quality German-made electrical circuit was replaced with a domestic analogue, modified, but "raw".

If the amplifier and speedometer do not work, then the problem is in the speed sensor - either it is dirty or out of order. The same goes for the torque and steering angle sensors. First you need to clean them and reset errors from the on-board computer, for this you can use several methods:

• remove the terminal from the battery, de-energizing the on-board network;
• using diagnostic programs and an adapter for connecting to the OBD II diagnostic connector.

If there is a suspicion that the fuse has blown, it must be checked and replaced if necessary. It is located in the mounting block, in the cabin, below the steering wheel on the left side. If any of the listed malfunctions occurs, you can fix them yourself, but to completely replace the electric amplifier mechanism, it is better to contact specialists.

Prevention measures

To maximize the service life of the Priora steering rack, follow the simple rules of operation:

• bumps, pits and speed bumps need to be driven at low speed and carefully;
• periodically inspect the condition of anthers and seals;
• the oil in the power steering should be warmed up before driving (short steering turns);
• it is not recommended to frequently hold the steering wheel in the extreme right or left position.

By following these simple rules, you can avoid expensive repairs or replacement of the unit.

14.06.2018

If you have become a happy owner of LADA Priora, then from time to time you will have to drive it into the garage and modify something with your own hands. A frequent breakdown is the Priora electric power steering, the problem here is the dampness of the structure. Namely, the replacement of an expensive German electrical circuit, a domestic one, which of course was finalized, but failures happen.

Before you start repairing the Priora electric power steering, it’s worth figuring out what’s broken. First you need to find out under what conditions the EUR failed. There can be several reasons why it failed:

• after charging the battery;
• when turning the steering wheel at a large angle;
• in car parking mode;
• when driving over 110 km/h.

Battery problems

Based on this, we can draw the first conclusions about the cause of the breakdown. A common cause of a malfunction is low voltage in the on-board network. The fact is that for the operation of the amplifier you need a supply voltage of 13.5V.

First of all, we test the battery, if everything is in order with it, then we understand further. Perhaps the problem arose when you removed the battery for charging. In order for the electric booster to work again, turn the wheels to the extreme position and back 5-6 times, very often this is enough to resume work.

Wiring fault

In the case when the battery is in order, we look at the wiring, weather conditions, frost, rain or heat can serve as concomitant factors. If, when the weather conditions change, the electric power steering on the Priore is turned off, then this is a clear sign of a wiring malfunction. Check the soldering and insulation of the winding, a short circuit may occur.

Priory's electric power steering does not work all the time. The maximum load on the electric motor is at low or completely absent speed, and the minimum at high speed. So, at Priora, at a speed of 110 km / h, the electric amplifier is turned off completely. In this case, the feedback on the steering wheel becomes maximum. The electric power steering "Kalina" is turned off already at 60 km / h.

Knocking steering wheel while driving

If you hear a knock or squeak while driving, then you need to stretch and lubricate the nut. To get there you need:

• remove the apron under the steering wheel, it rests on four self-tapping screws;
• remove the steering cover, it rests on three self-tapping screws;
• stretch and lubricate the nut indicated in the photo.

Chip errors

When a situation is observed that the wheels turn on their own, the reason is the electronic filling of the Priora electric power steering control unit. As mentioned above, for the sake of economy, they sacrificed quality. Now the situation with this seems to have improved and everything has been finalized, but if you suddenly feel that the steering wheel starts to behave by itself, go for repairs.

If the speedometer fails along with the electric power steering, then you need to look at the speed sensor. It's either just dirty or broken. The same applies to the torque sensor mounted on the amplifier. Clean them well and check if they work.

Do not forget to reset errors on the on-board computer, this can be done in several ways.

1. Remove the terminal from the battery, wait a few seconds and put it back, the error should disappear.
2. Using a computer, the corresponding software can be found on the Internet.

Fuse box location

If you suspect that the fuse has blown and you want to check it, then the question arises: where is the fuse for the Priora electric power steering. The mounting control unit is located to the left of the steering wheel. Its opening scheme is simple. All you need to do is turn three latches 90˚ and remove the cover as shown in the photo and you have reached the car's brain filling.

Here you can check and change the failed fuse, then close the cover by pressing it firmly and snapping the three latches back 90˚ in the opposite direction.

Outcome

Diagnostics and minor repairs of the Priora electric power steering can be done by hand. To do this, it is enough to determine what caused the failure and fix the problem, following our advice. It is better to entrust the complete replacement of the electric amplifier to professionals.

On most Lada Priora cars, electric power steering manufactured by Autoelectronics in Kaluga was installed from the factory. It is these EURs that are considered quite reliable and rarely fail. For comparison, problems with amplifiers manufactured by Makhachkala are an order of magnitude more common.

If, for any reason, you need to replace the EUR or simply remove it from the car, you can perform this repair yourself. For this procedure, we need a tool such as:

• 8 and 13 mm head - preferably deep
• ratchet or collar
• extension
• hammer
• chisel

How to remove the EUR on the Priore with your own hands

In fact, the electric power steering is removed without any problems, you just have to remove quite a few details first. Namely, you need to do the following:

After that, using an 8 mm head and a ratchet, unscrew and remove the contact group.

We remove it from the shaft completely so that it does not interfere.

Now you need to disconnect all the power wires from the EUR control unit, which are clearly shown in the photo below.

Each of the plugs has its own latch, so be sure to first look at the design of the latch so that you do not damage it when removing it. When the wires have been dealt with, it is necessary to unscrew the coupling bolt at the cardan mount with the steering rack.

With the help of a chisel and a hammer, we slightly expand the coupling “clamp” of the cardan. Then you can begin to unscrew the nuts securing the EUR to the body. The two nuts are in the front.

And two from the bottom.

Of course, when unscrewing the last fastening nuts, it is necessary to hold the EUR so that it does not fall. Next, pull it off the steering rack shaft, and remove it completely. If necessary, we replace it with a new one. This mechanism is installed in the reverse order and we connect all the necessary wires to their places.

The price of the new EUR Priora

Recently, prices for electric amplifiers have risen so much that not everyone can afford even a used version. For example, a new EUR produced by Kaluga on Priora can be bought at a price of 23,000 rubles, while a few years ago the price was two times lower.

As for used options, used EURs are sold at showdowns from 10 to 12 thousand rubles.

In VAZ Priora cars, the electric power steering performs the function of providing easier vehicle control. With the help of the EUR, the driver can easily turn the steering wheel with one hand. What malfunctions are typical for the amplifier and how to replace the EUR in garage conditions - we will discuss this below.

Possible malfunctions: signs and causes

In what cases is the steering rack, EUR and hydraulic booster dismantled and repaired, what is the circuit, what functions does the torque sensor perform?

To begin with, let's look at the main system malfunctions, why it does not work and how to fix them:

1. Incorrect operation or breakdown of the control unit is one of the most difficult reasons for the inoperability of the EUR and power steering in Lada Priore. With such a problem, an appropriate error message will be displayed on the on-board computer screen. If you decrypt it, you will find out that the computer has fixed the inoperability of the control module. Such problems are usually related to soldering problems.
   Most likely, the reason is a lack of connection or poor contact between the amplifier circuit and the controller. Such a malfunction is solved by repair, that is, soldering, or replacement, if we are talking about a car under warranty. You can find out more precisely about the problems by conducting computer diagnostics.
2. Failure of the speed controller. If the speed sensor breaks down, the electric booster spontaneously turns off or does not work at all, while an inoperability error will be displayed on the computer display. In this case, you can try to reconfigure the device or change the damaged sections of the electrical circuit at the junction of the sensor with the control unit. Sometimes the reason lies in the poor contact of the sensor with the on-board network, then the connector will just need to be corrected. If the malfunction is related to a non-working sensor, then the device must be removed and replaced.
3. The steering wheel turns with great difficulty. First of all, the cause should be sought in the absence of lubrication. If there is little oil in the system, then the steering wheel will be difficult to turn, and uncharacteristic noise or creaking may be heard during rotation. Check the lubrication level and add oil if necessary.
4. Long-term operation of the electric booster without lubrication can lead to pump failure. The malfunction is accompanied by sounds uncharacteristic for the operation of the EUR, as well as difficult rotation of the steering wheel. If the pump is repairable, then we can assume that you are lucky, but if not, then the device will have to be changed.
5. Malfunctions in the operation of the electric amplifier can also be facilitated by a reduced voltage in the electrical network of the machine. If the voltage in the on-board network really jumps, then you should initially check the generator and the electrical circuit of its connection. For diagnostics, it is recommended to use a multimeter or voltmeter (the author of the video is Alexander Loginov).

Methods for determining mechanical damage to the EUR and steering mechanisms

Mechanical damage is checked only when the EUR as a whole does not function correctly, but there are no errors on the on-board computer display. To diagnose mechanical failures, turn the steering wheel in different directions until it stops with the engine running. Of course, while the machine must be in one place. If, when turning the steering wheel, you have to exert significantly more effort than usual, this indicates a malfunction in the system and a breakdown of one of the components. The same problem may indicate the failure of other components of the steering system.

To more accurately identify problems, a thorough functional check should be performed. You will need to drive your Lada Priora onto a flyover, pit or lift, and then carefully diagnose all the components of the chassis. It is necessary to check the racks, tie rods and other components, since it is likely that the amplifier itself is working, and the symptoms of a malfunction are associated with other problems. To service the electric amplifier at home, you will have to completely disassemble the system, clean its components and put it back together.

Pinout diagram and designations of EUR contacts

Self-removal and installation of the amplifier

The procedure for dismantling and installing a new electric amplifier can be done by yourself, but for this you will need to prepare all the tools. To perform the work, you will need two screwdrivers - one with a flat tip, the other with a Phillips one. You will also need a set of socket wrenches.

How to do the DIY removal and installation task:

1. Before performing work, you will need to de-energize the on-board network of your Priora. To do this, turn off the ignition, then open the hood and disconnect the battery from power. After that, you will need to remove the steering wheel, but before that, remove the plastic trim located under the steering wheel and under the dashboard. The casing is attached to several bolts, they must be unscrewed and set aside. The removal of the steering wheel is carried out taking into account the recommendations described in the service manual.
2. When the pad is dismantled along with the steering wheel, you will see the steering column switch connectors, to which the wires are connected. These plugs will need to be disconnected. The contact ring is also subject to dismantling.
3. Using an 8 socket wrench, you will need to unscrew the bolt that secures the connector with the wires from the ignition switch. Set the bolt aside so you don't lose it.
4. When these steps are completed, press on the plastic fasteners and disconnect the wiring connectors at the top and bottom of the steering column.
5. Having done this, in the place where the electric amplifier is fixed directly to the speaker, you will see a plastic curtain. You will need to remove it, for this you will also need to disconnect the fasteners.
6. Using a socket wrench, you will need to slightly loosen the nuts that secure the amplifier to the bottom of the speaker. It is to loosen, not to twist. When the nuts are loosened, it is necessary to dismantle the electric amplifier from the seat, its removal is carried out with the intermediate shaft. But we still recommend disconnecting the amplifier from the shaft, this will allow you to quickly clean the EUR and simplify the installation procedure.
   To disconnect the shaft, you will need to unscrew the screw that secures the universal joint to the shaft using a 13 wrench. Having done this, you will also need to unscrew the two nuts located on the end parts, after which the entire steering column must be removed.
7. Then you will need to dismantle the bolt and cardan from the splined pulley of the mechanism. At the same time, pay attention to the labels - during further installation, in any case, they must match. The marks are located on the protective cover, pulley and cover of the starter mechanism. Now you can clean the electric booster and other system components, or replace the failed EUR with a new one. The assembly procedure is carried out in reverse order.

Photo gallery "Removing the EUR"

To date, each Priora is equipped with an electric power steering, this also applies to the basic configuration. Although initially the device went as an additional comfort feature. Owners of this model know that the unit often jams and breaks, however, if necessary, repairs can be done by hand. More on this later in the article.

Thanks to the operation of the electric power steering, the load and effort on the steering wheel are reduced when making a turn. The unit greatly facilitates driving and does not allow you to make dangerous maneuvers at high speed. The node contains the following elements:

• Electric motor.
• Column.
• Steering wheel.
• Moment sensor.
• Electronic control unit.
• Steering wheel mechanism.

When the steering wheel is turned, the EUR is activated. The moment is provided by the electric motor present in the design of the electric amplifier. The torque sensor measures the value and sends it to the electronic unit. Depending on the angle of rotation, the ECU calculates how much power the engine needs to be given. The switch, which is located under the steering wheel, has a device that determines the angle of rotation. Rotation and torque sensors transmit information to the electronic unit, which determines whether the electric motor is operating at the required speed.

On previous generations of the VAZ, a hydraulic booster was installed, which gave virtually the same force in all rotation ranges. As for the electric booster, the degree of effort here depends on a lot of factors: the speed of the steering wheel and its angle, the speed of the power plant, the driving speed.

Electric power steering Priors, weak link or not

Of course, the electric power steering is a very useful option, but at the same time it is the weak link of the Priora, since it periodically fails.

Signs of a complete failure of the VAZ electric booster

As practice shows, this unit does not have so many malfunctions, breakdowns occur in the same elements. The first thing to disassemble is the complete failure of the electric amplifier. When turning off the EUR, check the on-board computer screen, most likely you will see a code on it that reports malfunctions in the unit. However, in some cases, diagnosing the shutdown of the EUR can only be done in practice. Do the following:

1. Turn off the engine and turn the steering wheel in different directions several times.
2. Repeat these steps, but with the engine running.
3. Steering wheel force hasn't changed? This means that the unit is completely shut down.

The electric power steering does not work, is it possible to drive a car

Even if the electric booster is not working, you can continue driving, but this is not recommended. The driver needs time to get used to driving with the help of the EUR. Therefore, it is advisable to start diagnosing right away.

The speed sensor is out of order, how it affects the electric power steering and speedometer, how to fix it

Sometimes the speedometer and amplifier stop working at the same time. The reason for this defect is a failed speed sensor. It should be understood that these three components are related. The torque sensor transmits information to the control unit. He compares it with speed, and then determines the effort. If the cause is the speed sensor, then the repair is reduced to checking the wiring, which leads to this component. You should also check the wires that connect the sensor to the power steering and speedometer. If there are no breaks in the switching, change the sensor.

EUR does not work due to low voltage, how to fix

Low voltage in the car network can also lead to the shutdown of the electric amplifier. Look for faults in the insulation of the wiring. If it is damaged, short circuits will occur in the network. In addition, insulation faults cause alternator malfunction. To troubleshoot, check the alternator and wiring. There are many contacts in the torque sensor, which, in conditions of severe pollution, contribute to turning off the electric amplifier. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the unit and clean the contacts of the torque sensor.

The car does not listen to the steering wheel, what about the EUR, what should the driver do

The car moves on a flat road surface, the position of the steering wheel does not change, but suddenly the car turns to the side. Such unpredictable behavior of the EUR requires urgent diagnostics, since at the most inopportune time the electric power steering can send the car into the oncoming lane or to the side of the road. In this case, you must stop driving and turn off the amplifier.

How to turn off the EUR, in detail

To turn off the electric booster, it is necessary to remove the fuse responsible for supplying voltage to the EUR. To remove this fuse, do the following:

1. Near the left foot of the driver is the cover of the mounting block.
2. Turn the latches and snap off the fasteners.
3. The block where the required fuse is located is located near the expansion tank.
4. Remove fuse F5 (50 A).

The reason for this behavior is a malfunction in the EUR device. This may be a control unit, a torque sensor, mechanical damage or clogged contacts.

Where to make a fault diagnosis of the EUR

Preparatory work to replace the EUR

Before removing the amplifier, it is necessary to dismantle a lot of parts of the instrument panel: the ignition switch, casing, steering wheel with an airbag. When these elements are removed, you can proceed to the removal of the EUR.

Tools, fixtures, consumables

1. Deep heads on "8" and "13".
2. Chisel and hammer.
3. Ratchet and extension (alternatively, you can use a crank).

Replacing the EUR with your own hands, step by step instructions

Of course, an independent replacement of the EUR is a bit laborious, but not at all difficult even for a novice motorist. Good luck!

The device of the steering system on the Lada

When driving a car, the steering and braking systems play a huge role in safety. Therefore, it is important to monitor the correct operation of these elements.

Increasingly, an amplifier is being installed on the steering mechanism of a passenger car. Its task is to reduce the effort of a person on the steering wheel during maneuvers. At the moment, the car can be equipped with one of two types of power steering: power steering (GUR) and electric power steering (EUR).

Advantages and disadvantages of amplifiers

Power steering	electric power steering
Full transmission from the wheels to the steering wheel of the impact of the roadway, which provides good feedback.	Easier to operate and repair.
It takes over part of the engine power, which is why you have to constantly monitor the fluid level in the hydraulic booster reservoir and the condition of the pipelines.	Less impact on power.
	There is much less transmission from the wheels, so there is less feedback, which affects the so-called "feel of the road". The absence of this feeling, especially in winter, can lead to an incorrect assessment of the situation while driving.

Lada Priora can be equipped with both a hydraulic booster and an electric booster. Many motorists increasingly prefer cars with EUR, although it would be more correct to call it EMUR - electromechanical power steering.

Complete failure of the electric booster

Despite the fact that the EUR is considered more reliable than the power steering, it still has malfunctions, and since this directly affects safety, repairs should be made immediately.

There are not so many malfunctions that arise with the EUR on the Priore. The first thing that occurs is the complete cessation of the amplifier. Often, turning off the amplifier is accompanied by a corresponding code that is displayed on the on-board computer display, although there are also cases when it can only be detected by experience.

Hydraulic booster for modern Lada

For this you need to do:

1. Several turns of the steering wheel in different directions with the engine off.
2. Then you need to carry out the same operation, but with the car running.
3. If the force that needed to be applied to the steering wheel has not changed, this means that the amplifier is not working.

The movement, of course, can be continued even when the amplifier is not working, but it is undesirable, it is necessary to repair it as soon as possible and restore its working capacity.

There are times when the amplifier on the Priore turns off along with the speedometer. The reason for this is the speed sensor. The fact is that these three elements are interconnected. This scheme allows you to adjust the operation of the EUR depending on the speed mode. Repair in this case comes down to checking the performance of the speed sensor and the wiring going to it, the speedometer and the EUR. If breaks in switching are detected, it must be restored. And when the fault is in the sensor itself, it is simply replaced.

The electric booster may turn off due to low voltage in the on-board network of the Lada Priora. This indicates that the insulation in the wiring may have been damaged and there is a short circuit or there is a problem with the generator's performance, so it does not produce the correct voltage. Repair consists of checking and restoring the integrity of the wiring, as well as checking and troubleshooting the generator.

Severe contamination of the contact group of the torque sensor installed on the amplifier can also cause a shutdown. Moreover, the on-board computer, conducting self-diagnosis of the system and identifying problems with the operation of the torque sensor due to pollution, can deliberately turn off the amplifier itself. Repair in this case comes down to removing the EUR from the car, disassembling and thoroughly cleaning the contact group. But since the operations to restore the efficiency of the electric booster are complex and improper assembly and installation of it on a car can affect the correct operation of the steering mechanism, it is advisable to contact specialists to restore the EUR.

But as already mentioned, the complete shutdown of the electric power steering only leads to the need to make more efforts when driving, and such a malfunction does not significantly affect safety while driving.

The car of our time is fundamentally different from the cars of the last century. This applies to all aspects. And one of the main features of the new car was the ease of rotation of the steering wheel. Now, even being in a car standing in one place, the driver can turn the steering wheel with two fingers. How is such an effect achieved? This is the work of the electric power steering (EPS). But sometimes it crashes.

electric power steering

This device makes more powerful the force that is transmitted in the steering system. Simply put, the steering wheel can be turned with two fingers. Previously, hydraulic boosters (GUR) were installed on VAZ models, but starting with the Lada Kalina, they were abandoned.

The EUR was developed.
In terms of power transmission, power steering is preferable, however, it has many disadvantages:

• Engine power take-off.
• Constant monitoring of the level in the tank is necessary.
• Checking oil lines.

All these shortcomings are devoid of an electric amplifier. And it is even easier to repair than power steering. But he has enough faults of his own.

EUR device

The main components of an electric amplifier:

1. Mechanical part.
2. electrical component.
3. Electronic control unit (ECU) with peripherals.

The mechanical part includes the actual steering parts, connecting parts and mounting fittings. That is, the input and output shafts, bracket, nuts, bolts, studs and springs. Well, another adjusting lever, to change the angle of the steering wheel.

Electric, actually the amplifier motor itself. The electronic component is the most vulnerable. ECU and connectors with sensors.

Methods for determining the malfunction of the EUR

Well, of course, the first sign of a breakdown in the system is the operation of the ECU warning light on the instrument panel. Usually on a standard factory Priora model, this is a steering wheel-shaped badge with an exclamation point. When the ignition is turned on, it lights up for a few seconds, and then, if the computer decides that everything is in order, the light goes out. And accordingly, when a breakdown of the Priora electric amplifier is detected, it lights up and remains on.

Important! It must be remembered that the Priora electric amplifier is connected with its computer to the Priora VAZ 2170 on-board computer, and therefore the most correct way is to make computer diagnostics. Now individual diagnostic scanners are being sold, which are available to any Priora owner, not only at a price, it is within 1250 rubles, but also in terms of ease of development.

So, carry out computer diagnostics, contact the computer to get error codes with or without decoding. Even if the scanner gives only codes, it's not scary. You can just know that the malfunctions associated with the Priors EUR start with the symbol "C". For example, C1013, means that the voltage in the network is low, and this is not enough for the electric amplifier.

Well, there are several options here. The most common case is the weakening or burning of one of the two power wires going to the EUR. These are red and black wires, of a large cross section, included in a separate connector on the device. They are pretty easy to check. And also it can be a large fuse for the device, everything is clear here. Well, the third reason is a lack in the car's network, for example, a weak or faulty battery or generator. With such a malfunction, see a specialist, and nothing else. To an auto electrician.

"People's" way to check the malfunction, or "control"

Well, if the signaling device does not light up, and there are doubts about the serviceability or malfunctions of the Priory EUR, or after the repair you need to make a “control”, proceed as follows: you need to turn the steering wheel without turning on the ignition. Remember effort. And repeat the operation by starting the engine. If there are no changes, something has happened to the Priory EUR!

What kind of malfunctions exist in the Priors electric amplifier

And again the same list, mechanics, electrical, electronics. Well, everything is clear with the mechanics, this is the failure of shafts, joints and fittings. With this malfunction, the wheels simply will not respond to the turn of the steering wheel. And this is the easiest problem to fix. But with the rest of the malfunctions it is much more difficult. If the malfunctions are related to the failure of the servomotor itself, the amplifier, the Priors should not even think about repair. It’s easier to buy a new EUR in the store and replace it yourself. Or take it to the service, and try to repair it there. If the connection with the Priory EUR ECU is lost, then this is most likely the second connector, with a loop of wires, the same is true if the signal for the unit is not received from external sensors - the crankshaft and camshaft. Yes, yes, they are also important for the operation of the device. In these cases, you can remove and repair, or replace an inexpensive wire bundle.

The “brain” of the electric amplifier itself remained, and the internal sensors for the position of the shafts of the unit. Messing around with sensors is not an option, only a repair service. But the computer itself, if it malfunctions, you can buy and replace it yourself.

Removal and installation

This is not such a complicated procedure as it might seem. And it even requires very few tools:

1. Ring key for 8.
2. A socket with a knob, or a socket wrench for 13.
3. Curly (cross) screwdriver.

And nothing more than the ability to use them. This is provided that the steering wheel itself has already been removed, and this is a different story.

Attention! Before starting the process, first disconnect the battery! You can just remove one terminal.

Well, now forward. Remove the plastic pads from the steering column by unscrewing 2 self-tapping screws and unfastening 2 latches. With a screwdriver, unscrew the bolts, in the amount of four pieces, and separate the lower part of the lining. Now the lock interferes, and the "helicopter" - switches for turns and wipers. First of all, pressing the antennae on the connectors, disconnect all the wires. Then, with a key of 8, loosen the clamp that attaches these devices, after which they will freely come off the shaft casing.

Disconnect the two connectors from the ECU. Remove the plastic cover from the special stud.

Do not unscrew the lower nuts at all, but turn them a few turns with a key No. 13. But pull out the coupling bolt of the intermediate shaft hinges completely, unscrewing its nut by 13. Well. Having unscrewed all the fixing nuts, you can pull out the faulty Priory EUR. With a key of 13, release the lower shaft of the device from the splined hinge. OK it's all over Now. You can try to fix the malfunctions described above yourself, take it to a workshop, or simply put a new unit on your Priora, proceeding in the reverse order.

A useful video on the general repair of the Priory electric power steering:

Required: Phillips screwdriver, ring wrench "8", socket wrench "13".

Remove the negative terminal from the battery. Remove steering wheel, steering column trim and instrument panel trim. Next in order:

1. Loosen the 4 screws with a Phillips screwdriver, and remove the bottom panel trim.
2. Disconnect the wire blocks from the steering column switches and the slip ring.
3. Loosen the pinch bolt using a 8" spanner. Disconnect the blocks with wires from the ignition switch.
4. Squeeze the clamps and disconnect the wiring harness from the steering column.

1. Compress the clamps and disconnect the wiring harness at the bottom of the steering column.
2. Release the clamps, and disconnect the 2 blocks with wires from the electric power steering.
3. Loosen the steering column lower mounting nuts using a 13" socket wrench. Loosen them a few turns.

Comment:

1. Loosen the pinch bolt nut with a 13 wrench (it connects the universal joints of the intermediate shaft).
2. Loosen the left nut of the upper steering column mount using a "13" socket wrench.
3. Loosen the right steering column top nut using a 13" socket wrench.

1. Remove the Priora steering column assembly.
2. Unscrew the nut of the coupling bolt of the flange of the lower cardan joint and the steering shaft, using the "13" wrench.

Installation of electric power steering on Lada Priora

The installation of the steering column with the EUR is carried out in the reverse order. Before installing, make sure that the groove on the shaft, the mark on the cover of the steering gear case, and the marks on the protective cover are properly located.

1 - angular recess in the cover of the crankcase of the steering mechanism; 2 - groove on the shaft of the steering mechanism; 3 - cover of the crankcase of the steering mechanism; A - angular protrusion on the protective cover; B - cutout in the edge of the protective cover.

Make sure that mark A is located opposite the recess of the angular shape (No. 1), which is located in the crankcase cover, and the shaft is rotated so that its groove (No. 2) is located opposite mark B.
We tighten the nuts of the coupling bolts on the flanges of the intermediate shaft with a torque of 23-28 Nm (2.3-2.8 kgcm).
We tighten the steering column mounting nuts with a torque of 15-18.6 Nm (1.5-1.9 kgcm).

The device and circuit of the electric power steering Lada Priora

:


1 - right steering rod assembly; 2 - right support of the steering mechanism; 3 - bracket of the steering gear support; 4 - intermediate cardan shaft; 5 - electric amplifier; 6 - steering wheel; 7 - steering column pipe; 8 - left support of the steering mechanism; 9 - steering mechanism; 10 - left tie rod assembly

:


1 - input shaft; 2 - column pipe; 3 - column bracket; 4 - electric amplifier; 5 - electric booster control unit; 6 - steering column tilt adjustment lever; 7 - tie rod; 8 - rear bracket of the electric booster; 9 - spring; 10 - output shaft; 11 - bolt-axle; 12 - front bracket of the electric booster; 13 - power connector of the control unit; 14 - control connector of the control unit; 15 - nut.