Instructions for those who do not understand anything about car batteries, but want the car to start at half a turn at any time of the year.
The content of the article "How to choose a battery for a car?"
The battery powers the car not only at the moment when the engine is running. Without current, the car cannot even be removed from the “signaling”. In order not to find yourself in a situation that the car has turned into a lifeless piece of iron, you need to know the “age” of the current battery.
The life cycle of a battery is on average 4 years. It is impossible to say more precisely: it can serve 7 years or not even three. There are many factors that affect battery life. It's better to just be prepared after 4 years that one morning the car won't start, no matter the weather.
What you need to know to pick new battery for the car - we will tell below.
Choosing a battery by capacity
Battery capacity is measured in ampere hours. It shows the ability of the battery to provide a certain current for a certain time. So, a capacity of 75 amp hours means that the battery can deliver a current of one amp for 75 hours (or 3 amps for 25 hours).
75 Ah battery
The capacity is prescribed in the car's operating instructions, service book or on a label under the hood. If the documents have been lost for a long time and the inscription is not readable, then you can choose based on the engine size: the larger the “engine”, the higher the battery capacity. On cars it ranges from 38 to 225 Am/h.
For example: engine size from 1 to 1.6 l - capacity 55 A/h; engine from 1.3 to 1.9 l - capacity 60 A/h; from 1.4 to 2.3 l - capacity 66 A/h; from 1.6 to 3.2 liters - capacity 77 A/h and so on.
It’s not worth saving on a small capacity, or doing “what’s best”, that is, buying a battery with larger parameters. Use the manufacturer's recommendation.
The larger the battery capacity, the longer you can turn the starter if the engine does not start in cold weather.
Battery polarity types
Happens straight And reverse. Open the hood and look where the terminals are located. If the positive (the corresponding symbol should be drawn next to it) is on the right, then the battery has reverse polarity. It is also called European. If the positive terminal is on the left, then the polarity is direct or "Russian".
If you still reverse the polarity, then the pole wires may not reach the correct terminals.
How to choose a battery according to the type of vehicle?
Everything is simple here. Types are divided by type of transport: moto, passenger car, cargo And traction. The smallest is a motorcycle battery. Traction batteries are used in electric vehicles.
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Types of car battery terminals
There are three of them: "Europe", "Asia" And "under the bolt". They differ in size and shape.
The European type of terminals is the most common. Their main difference is that they are located in recesses below the level of the lid. The diameter of the Europe-type terminals: the positive electrode has a thickness of 19.5 millimeters, and the negative electrode is 17.9.
Europe
Asian terminals are thinner - their diameter is 12.7 and 11.1 millimeters. The electrodes are on the surface of the flat cover.
Asia
Be careful. If the "Asian" battery can still be installed on the "European" car, because the polar wires can be adjusted using adapters. But the "European" battery will not fit the "Asian".
Bolted terminals - american standard. They can be located on the side wall of the battery and on top. The bolt connected to the wire is threaded into the terminal hole and fixed with a nut. The same type of terminals are used on motorcycle and boat batteries.
America
Voltage (V)
The voltage of a fully charged car battery should be 12.65 V.
Cold start current
Inrush current, also called cold scroll current, is maximum current, which can give the battery for 30 seconds at a temperature of -18 ° C. It is needed to start the car. The lower the air temperature outside, the more energy the battery needs to spend in order to start the car engine.
The cold start current depends on the capacity of the battery and is measured in amps. How more capacity, the higher the starting current. For average gasoline engine starting current values are approximately 500 amperes. For diesel engines- not less than 600 amperes.
Here, as in the case of the container, the recommended values are indicated by the manufacturer in the car's operating instructions. In any case, the starting current of the new battery should not be lower than that indicated on the previous battery.
It is allowed if the starting current values are slightly higher than those recommended by the manufacturer. This will avoid problems with starting the engine in winter at temperatures below minus 15°C.
Cold start current
Select battery size
The most trouble-free way not to be mistaken with the dimensions of the battery is to measure the one that is on this moment installed in your car. Or look at this data on the label.
Mount type
The battery in the car can be mounted on top of the clamping bar - this is called top mount type.
Top mount
Second option - bottom type mounts when the battery is fixed from below with a plate. Such models have a “skirt” at the base, that is, protrusions. The easiest way to find out what type of mount is meant on your car is to get the "native" battery.
bottom mount
Faced with the need to replace the battery, the car owner is faced with a difficult choice. After a long study of the market offers automotive components, having decided on the choice of a model of a suitable container, the buyer will find out what else happens different type battery terminals. For clarification desired type you can also look under the hood, check with the old device, but it will be very useful to understand for yourself how their location differs.
Battery polarity
As everyone remembers from the school curriculum, polarity is the order in which the electrodes are located on the battery case. For example, the most common European standard cone "A" has a negative current output with a diameter of 17.9 mm, and a positive one - 19.5 mm. Therefore, when deciding to acquire new contacts, it is necessary to weigh the pros and cons, that is, examine all their parameters:
- connector diameter;
- length of the connecting wire;
- maximum current for which they are designed.
Having made a mistake with their location on a new device, you may encounter connection difficulties: there is not enough length mounting wires, or the connectors are different from what you need. If connected incorrectly, there is a huge risk of getting a short circuit or, much worse, completely burning the car's electrical wiring. There are two types of contacts:
- Direct polarity: the "positive" electrode is located on the left side of the housing. Mostly used in cars produced by domestic manufacturers.
- Reverse polarity: the plate of the "positive" electrode is usually placed on the right side of the housing. It is found on cars of Asian and American assembly.
The type of polarity is easy to determine by placing the battery with the contacts down and looking at which side of the case is (+). In addition to direct and reverse arrangement, battery terminals have a number of other differences.
Size differences
If the shape of the terminals and battery contacts does not match, it is recommended to either replace the contacts, or use a suitable adapter, which can be found in the same store where the battery was purchased. If “craftsmen” assure that a battery with T1 terminals can be “squeezed” into a car where the T3 size is technically provided, simply by opening them on the wires, you should not listen to this opinion.
An artisanal method of attaching a contact can deprive the owner of factory warranties and add complexity. Battery terminals, first of all, may differ in shape and size:
- Batteries domestic production on their cases they have high conical terminals, and the positive one is larger in diameter than the “ground” terminal. On American type batteries, you can see a screw outlet for trucks- "under the bolt."
- Conical shape for domestic or European cars- standard diameter (terminal type T1, diameter "+" - 19.5 mm, "-" - 17.8 mm), for cars Japanese car industry the diameter is smaller (type T3, diameter "+" - 12.7 mm, "-" - 11.1 mm).
Often in cars of Asian assembly, the positive terminal is very massive, which makes it difficult to connect a Euro-type power source. Modern market batteries offers a fairly wide range, so choosing a battery with the right size and correct polarity will not be difficult.
Types of battery cases
Any inconsistencies in the design always affect primarily the safety of the vehicle. If you have any doubts when choosing a battery, you can always resort to the advice of an experienced specialist.
As a rule, employees involved in the sale of batteries know all the subtleties and nuances regarding the sizes and types of battery terminals, types of cases, and if there is an additional important information makes and models of the car will help you choose the best suitable option. Besides different diameter types of terminals car batteries, in the "European" and "Asian" models there are significant differences in the methods of fastening:
The use of a battery of the type provided by the manufacturer guarantees uninterrupted and trouble-free operation of all energy-consuming systems and devices of the car for many years.
Every year, with the arrival of winter and the onset of cold weather, motorists face the same problem. Will the engine start after a long (or not so) downtime in the cold? Will you have to ask your neighbor to "light up" from his for some reason easily started car? What if nothing helps, and instead of a comfortable trip to personal car Will you need to run to a public transport stop or catch a ride?
Tellingly, our compatriots are not puzzled by these questions in advance, but at the very last moment, when the car has already stood for a week of the January holidays in the cold with the alarm turned on, you have to go to work, and for some reason the engine does not show signs of life.
Naturally, the battery becomes the victim of the car owner's anger in this case, and in the evening of the same day, in the company of fellow sufferers, the owner of movable property, which suddenly turned into real estate, goes to the store for a new battery.
The result is wasted time, not the smallest amount paid for a new device, seasonal revenue growth in specialized stores and joy for buyers of used batteries.
Before you go to the store for a new battery, you need to know one thing:
Do you need a new battery at all?
Of course, if the starter refuses to make even half a turn, and the backlight dashboard looks dull and flickering - with tension in onboard network clearly something is wrong. But does this mean that the battery needs to be changed?
No. Even if your battery is more than three years old, and "experienced drivers" diagnose him with death from natural causes. Modern quality batteries provided regular maintenance they live a very long time - for example, the battery on the author's last car worked for almost 9 years, without losing its characteristics and providing easy start-up in absolutely any conditions, including forty-degree Yekaterinburg frosts and one hundred percent St. Petersburg humidity.
If your battery is frozen and discharged, it is logical that it needs to be warmed up first and then charged. Remove the battery from the car - fortunately, this does not require any special skills or special tool. Check the integrity of the case (if the battery is swollen and burst, further manipulations are pointless). Take the battery home and warm it up - for example, put it in a bowl of warm water (just don't fill the battery "with your head"!). This alone can help the battery the next time you start it up.
In addition, remember that any, absolutely any battery needs to be recharged regularly. It doesn't matter if your car has a "manufacturer recommended" battery or a super-mega-ultra-modern battery advertised everywhere. No words and slogans will save you from the need to independently extend the life of the battery.
Therefore, buy and keep at home good, suitable Charger. It is very easy to use, and it costs much less than a new battery. And if you consider that regular recharging will allow the battery to work properly for many, many years, the savings will be simply colossal.
It is advisable to recharge the battery twice a year - in the spring, when the cold has already receded, and in the fall, before they start. This process will take no more than a day and will not require your participation, since serviced batteries and dancing with a hydrometer are now completely a thing of the past. But as a result, launch problems will not bother you at all.
Also, remember that problems with starting the engine in cold weather may not be related to the battery at all! A faulty starter - for example, if the centering is knocked down - can consume a huge amount of energy, but at the same time not give out the proper power to start the engine. The fuel pump relay, SUDDENLY burnt out from old age or voltage drops, will save the engine from fuel: the starter will turn, the candles will give out a spark, and there will simply be nothing to ignite. Malfunctions in the ignition system or simply poor adjustment of it - on the contrary, will exclude a spark from the process. And excessively thickened or even frozen oil will not allow the engine to spin. But it can be bad, highly diluted gasoline, and summer diesel fuel sold under the guise of winter, and heavily polluted candles ... and this is only a minimal list possible causes in which replacing the battery will not help to start!
Recommendation #1: If you do not want to face the problem of difficult starting the engine, take care of its prevention. Regularly recharge the battery, use not necessarily expensive, but only high-quality and not fake engine oil and change it on time, preferably even more often than indicated in the service book. Refuel only at proven gas stations - not necessarily "premium" grades of fuel, the main thing is that the gasoline is not diluted, and the diesel is clean and appropriate for the season.
Before winter, carry out mandatory preventive maintenance: call in a service where they will correctly set the ignition for you, check the performance of the starter and generator. Make sure that a good, suitable antifreeze is poured into the engine cooling system, and not water and compositions close to it in characteristics. Check the condition of the terminals on the wires connecting to the battery, if necessary - replace them and be sure to lubricate them to protect them from oxidation.
In other words: good oil, good fuel, a good spark - and now you are helping your neighbors in the parking lot to get started in the cold, saving those freezing on the highway and in every possible way enjoying your own preparedness, and not vice versa.
If you live in the northern regions of the country or simply in areas with an extremely harsh climate, it is better to consider installing before winter preheaters engine. Yes, this is never budgetary, but when the temperature drops below 45-50 degrees, and warm garage you don’t have it, absolutely any engine can fail, and nothing will help here new battery, nor timely service all vehicle systems.
Finally, if the car has already refused to start, do not rush to run and give money for a new battery. First, the reasons bad start- the sea, and in many cases the battery is not in business at all. Secondly, recharging is most often able to bring the battery back to life, which is what buyers use, collecting live, in general, devices from motorists for a symbolic 50 rubles and then selling the same batteries for much more.
But if the battery is really out of order - and this, alas, is possible with modern batteries- you need to know the following:
Battery manufacturer
Like others car parts, consumables and auto chemicals, batteries are produced by many companies. Among them may be eminent European concerns that produce a wide range of products, and rare American brands in our latitudes, and various Asian firms known only for one type of manufactured goods, and Russian research institutes and NGOs.
List of manufacturers present in the DNS catalog: AtlasBX, Bosch, Docker, MegaBatt, Optima Batteries, Solite, Start.Bat, Titan, Tyumen Battery, Varta And Westa. And that's not all famous brands batteries!
How to make a choice? Funny moment: the brand itself does not mean anything and does not guarantee. Yes, the author can be called a fan of foreign batteries under the "V" brand, since already the second device from this manufacturer is extremely pleased with its survivability and characteristics ... but at the same time, the example of the author's acquaintances using Russian batteries under the "T" brand proves that the domestic industry can also please in a good sense of the word.
Recommendation #2: When choosing a battery, do not focus on the "brand reputation" and even more so - on reviews in online stores. And for sure - do not read summary reviews in domestic automotive magazines- the reputation of these publications is so polluted that it seems that soon they will start publishing articles on the topic "will the battery reveal the potential of ignition coils?".
If you want to know if this or that battery is suitable for you, and how it will behave in your climate, it’s better to go to the city auto forum or to the same drive2 and read about the experience of your fellow citizens - it will be much more useful. Summary tests are best read in foreign automotive magazines.
Battery capacity
As in any other battery - for example, in power supplies for smartphones or laptops - the capacity of a battery means the amount of energy that it is able to accumulate, store and release. And it is also measured in Amperes / hours.
But there is a caveat: unlike the same phones, the car does not always run on battery power (unless, of course, you have an electric car). And chasing more volume than your car needs simply does not make sense: you will spend more money on the battery itself, and as a result, most likely, you will get constant undercharging, which will affect the health of the battery in a far from good way.
Recommendation #3: If your car is equipped with a battery from the factory with a capacity of, for example, 62 Ah, and you have not made major changes to it, such as installing powerful acoustics and a more efficient generator - choose a battery with a capacity of 62 Ah or close to this setting. If you want to spend more money - better buy a battery of the same capacity, but with a large starting current, or, for example, gel battery instead of a battery with liquid electrolyte. This will bring you real and tangible benefits.
Of course, small deviations from passport data are acceptable. For example, if it allows seat, instead of a battery with a capacity of 38 Ah, you can install analogues with capacity up to 45 A/h, instead of 55 A / h - analogues from 52 to 60 A/h, instead of 75 - models closest in capacity and so on. Small deviations are acceptable, but trying to stick all 75 A / h instead of 52 A / h is not worth it.
Starting current
But this is just very important parameter. Starting current is the amount of energy that can go to the starter of the car. Usually this parameter is related to the capacity of the battery, however, devices with increased starting current exist from all manufacturers. For example, batteries of the most popular capacity in Russia - 55 A / h - depending on the ability to issue both standard for themselves 420 amperes, and all 500.
Roughly speaking, the more starting current, the better. It will be especially good for winter operation car, as well as strongly worn out engines in which a thicker and more viscous oil is poured. The only question is whether the battery is really capable of delivering the declared current during a cold start, how much of this current it “loses” at low temperatures, and how many starts it will be able to work for. And this, alas, cannot be known without studying comparative reviews and experience of real car owners.
Recommendation #4: The more starting current, the better. But if the battery is capable of delivering a large number of ampere only at positive temperatures, and at -20 degrees it loses up to 60% of its power and turns the starter a maximum of 4 times before it is completely discharged - it will not help you anyway. In this case, it is important and necessary to look at the promised figures, but these figures must be confirmed by real facts.
Type of shell
Batteries are available in two housing options: European And Asian. The differences between them are ridiculously minimal: for the "Europeans" the terminals are recessed into the body, while for the "Asians" they protrude above it.
On the one hand, it is theoretically possible to install a "European" in the seat of an "Asian". On the other hand, do you need it? A "file-finished" mount will not provide the same secure fixation, as factory - unless you make a full custom. Yes, and fixing the terminals at the same time can be difficult.
Recommendation #5: Don't create problems for yourself out of the blue. If your car involves the use of an "Asian" type battery, choose such a battery. And the desire to create custom parts can always be realized in a more rewarding area than battery mounts.
Polarity
There are also only two options here: batteries are made either with straight(plus on the left, minus on the right), or with reverse polarity(minus on the left, plus on the right).
Recommendation #6: The recommendations here are exactly the same as in the previous paragraph: no need to reinvent the wheel. If a battery with straight polarity is installed as standard, choose a device with straight polarity. If with the reverse - buy the battery with the reverse. Not a single battery is worth re-tightening or lengthening power wires for its sake - unless, of course, the need for this is caused by deep tuning engine compartment and moving the battery from its original place.
Terminal size
As you might guess from the name, the terminal size is a parameter that determines what size and shape of terminals you can connect the battery to the car with. Moreover, there are a lot of standardized terminals: in addition to the “buttons” familiar to car owners, there are terminals for a bolt with a nut, and even threaded connections.
However, in the field of automotive batteries, two standards are most widely used: and.
The difference between them is in size. T1 is the standard found in European cars. These are "thick" terminals: positive diameter - 19.5 mm, negative - 17.8 mm. The T3 standard, on the contrary, is common in Asia. These are "thin" terminals, the positive diameter is 12.7 mm, the negative one is 11.1 mm.
Recommendation #7: It is theoretically possible to put a battery with T1 standard terminals on a car with T3 standard wires - however, for this you will have to barbarously "unclench" the terminals on the wires, which will call into question the reliability of the contact. The reverse operation - installing a battery with T3 terminals in a car with T1 wires - is not possible. It will be necessary either to replace the terminals on the wires, or to replace the entire power wires.
Of course, it's best not to. The reliability of the contact of the power wires with the terminals on the battery is an extremely important parameter, on which the ease of starting the engine largely depends. Therefore, "collective farming" is absolutely unacceptable here. Choose a battery with the type of terminals that is provided initially - this will avoid many problems during operation.
Of course, there are exceptional cases when you simply cannot find batteries with thin terminals on sale, but with thick ones - as many as you like and of any brands. In this case, the power wire assembly should be replaced, but only with factory-made and good quality devices.
dimensions
Batteries, depending on the characteristics, manufacturer and model, may vary in length, width And height even while remaining within the same standard.
And no matter how minor the size of the battery may seem, they need to pay close attention. If the length and width of the battery exceed the size of the landing area under the hood or in the trunk of a car, this is bad, because in this case the battery cannot be fixed in a regular way, but the car will still function.
But if the battery does not fit in height - this is VERY bad. The hood may simply not close, but if the bare metal of the hood touches both terminals at once, you are guaranteed a good PUMP, and the budget for remediation may be different.
Recommendation #8: Before buying a new battery, find out exactly what sizes are suitable for your car. And you don't need to measure old battery, namely the length and width of the landing area under it and the height from the platform to the hood. Yes, it's better once again to go to the garage or to the parking lot with a tape measure than to return to the store and hand over a battery that did not fit in size.
The presence of a shoulder
This parameter is important if in your car the battery is attached using a plate that clings to ... in fact, behind bead on the bottom edge of the battery case. If the battery is attached due to the clamping bracket attached from above, the collar will not needed.
Weight
Actually, a parameter that does not need any additional comments. Weight is weight. May vary depending on battery capacity, case size and other parameters.
Recommendation #10: It will not be superfluous at all in advance, before buying, to compare your physical capabilities and the weight of the battery that you plan to buy. There is no need to be a hero here - a broken back will not help you in any way when replacing the battery, especially in the cold. So in some cases it is better to pay extra for shipping. Although, on the other hand, drag 8-12 kg from the store to bus stop any physically healthy person can, and no one has canceled trolley bags yet.
Any part of the car requires control. The role of the battery in the operation of the car is one of the most important - if it fails, not only the auxiliary source of electricity disappears, but also the ability to start the engine. The car owner needs to regularly monitor the electrolyte level, its density, charge level, and recharge the battery when necessary. Contact terminals play an important role in the operation of the battery - electrical conductivity depends on them. We can safely say that they are subjected to the strongest destructive effect of the current, and therefore deteriorate more often than many.
Selection of terminals for the battery.
Basic information about battery terminals
A car battery stores energy in order to use it later to start the engine, operate headlights, wipers, and transmit current to all car electronics when the engine is not running. The vast majority of models use lead acid batteries. To choose the right battery, the material does not matter as much as other characteristics. Batteries are also selected according to the purpose of use, charging method, it is also enough important role play possible additional functions. Naturally, when choosing a car, they do not attach special importance to a suitable battery, because there are more important and interesting characteristics. With all the variety of manufacturers, there are only a few criteria when choosing a battery.
Two types of devices can be distinguished: batteries that need to be serviced and those that do not need to be serviced. The fact is that in the first case, the car owner has the opportunity to replace failed parts during the operation of the device, but in the second case, the battery is sealed - it does not need to be regularly inspected or filled with additional water. The method of charging also plays a decisive role. There are charged and dry-charged batteries. The only difference between them is that for dry-charged ones, it is necessary to mix special components in complex proportions in order to obtain a liquid that is poured inside. So, if you don’t want to bother with difficulties, choose charged batteries. There are also special covers with a separation system. They protect the electrolyte from spilling out, and the water from excessive evaporation.
What are the terminals
most big problem in battery operation is the oxidation or destruction of the terminal. In this case, the terminals must be replaced. In the car market you can find devices made of lead, copper and brass.
lead
Most car owners prefer a lead terminal. This material has good electrical conductivity, it is softer than other metals, which is very good for crimping, in addition, it is resistant to electrolyte, does not create a galvanic couple with it, and therefore does not corrode. In addition, lead is cheaper than others, but it has low temperature melting, which can lead to backfire especially in hot weather.
brass
There is also a brass terminal. It is much heavier, but also stronger than others. It is easily deformed with pliers, which plays in its favor, because for effective work it should fit very tightly to the current terminal. Also quickly removed, has good electrical conductivity and high temperature melting up to 950 degrees.
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Copper
Copper terminals for the battery at first glance - the most the best choice. The best possible electrical conductivity, does not oxidize as much, has a larger contact patch. Melts at temperatures above 1050 degrees.
Which terminals to choose
Given all the above information, it will not be difficult to find out which battery terminals are better. Much depends on the conditions in which the product will stay (, type of battery, constant pressure passing through the terminals, or otherwise), as well as from the material from which it is made. Car owners agree that lead terminals are the most versatile - they are quite heavy, soft enough, do not react chemically with acid, and are much cheaper than products made from other metals. At the same time, lead has a low melting point, sufficient, but not the highest conductivity of electricity.
