So, dear readers. The time has come for us to discuss what kind of engine oil best suited for the pride of the Ukrainian automotive industry, people's car ZAZ LANOS, aka DAEWOO LANOS, aka DAEWOO CHANCE, aka CHEVROLET LANOS.
For the sake of objectivity, we will consider this small but proud bird under the microscope of the chronology of production in the world:
OPEL KADETT- indeed, the A15SMS 1 5 engine installed on DEO LANOS is a modified version of the G15MF 1.5 (installed on Daewoo Nexia before restyling), which, in turn, was copied from Opel engine C16NZ, designed in the distant 80s. For such Opel engines at one time recommended API SF / SG / SH class engine oil (one version each) and API SF / SE (recommended in more old instructions for operation).
The answer is unequivocal - yes, nothing will happen, but with the caveat "for how long" or "how long to ride it." After all, in the 70s there were no concepts of “extended oil change interval” and oils worked out much earlier than modern ones. It was from this era that the opinion came to us that if the oil has darkened, it needs to be changed urgently.
The especially savvy have probably already guessed that since the “old” version of the instruction recommends more outdated oil classes, and the “new” version - more modern ones - then the more modern oil- the better it is. And there is a grain of truth here. But our task with you now is not just to find out "which oil is the best in the universe", but to determine that golden mean between "MOST" and "UNREASONALLY EXPENSIVE", because of the owners of DEO LANOS you will not often meet a person who is ready to spend easy money on an oil change. At the same time, you need to figure out which product will BEST recommend itself in price segment the owner of "our hero".
1.Original oil under the GM logo.
Since Daewoo LANOS is crammed from head to toe with the logos of this brand, many quite rightly believe that original GM oil should be poured there. Incredible, but true - GM itself does not produce oil (otherwise, like other original oils). For him, the oil is made by the one who offers the most favorable price for a product that meets the requirements stated by the auto manufacturer. WHO ARE THEY? MANUFACTURERS? There are quite a lot of versions today: LUKOIL at factories in the Russian Federation, Turkey and Romania, the Blgian "WOLF" (before that Castrol, Elf, Delco). Both versions have a fairly weighty confirmation on the "oil forums" - from certificates to photographs of canisters indicating the manufacturer. But for sure, we only know what we can see with our own eyes (see photo).
Yes, yes, in Turkey, GM produces LUKOIL LUBRICANTS MIDDLE EAST MADENI YAĞ SAN. And all the Turks, by the way, with a population of 80 million people have been riding TURKISH GM for a long time (by the way, the fleet there is much fresher than ours, and there are more cars in general).
It also sounds quite plausible that the oil sold on the territory of Ukraine is, for the most part, the same Romanian LUKOIL plant, with the note "made in EU" on the canister.
2. Oils of "domestic" production.
Since our online store www.site is located in Ukraine, from personal observations I can state a fact - about half of the owners of a "people's" car in Ukraine, over time, switch to cheap oil, often domestic production. There is nothing wrong with this, in general, but you should be careful and pay attention when choosing domestic oil to the following:1) Viscosity index this product should have enough high level. And this is due to the fact that not all so-called "semi-synthetics" are produced using "synthetic raw materials". Often manufacturers are cunning, and, in order to reduce the cost of the product, they replace synthetic base on unreasonably a large number of viscosity additives. At the same time, the oil does not become "synthetic" or "semi-synthetic" from this. So it turns out that you are buying, as it were, "semi-synthetics", but in fact it is a "mineral water" with a viscosity of 10w-40. Do not be too lazy to go to the manufacturer's website before buying oil and look at the plate with technical specifications. If the viscosity index in it is about 130 units, this is probably such a case. If the viscosity index is about 150 or more, then most likely you have a "real semi-synthetics", "synthetics", or a "synthetic" product in your hands. In other words: the higher the viscosity index, the higher the margin of safety!
2) API class- the higher - the better. Pay attention to the following: SN is better than SM, SM is better than SL, etc. descending - SN,SM,SL,SJ,SH,SG, SF (see above API picture). Accordingly, keep in mind for yourself that the SG class is a standard that was valid from 1989 to 1992, and SN appeared in 2011, and to this day there is nothing better than this class. Moreover, if API classes confirmed by the API itself (API - American Petroleum Institute or American Petroleum Institute) - generally excellent - it means that this oil at least corresponds to the class that is written on its canister. If the API knows nothing about it, then no matter what class is written on the canister, it means absolutely nothing, and there is NO confidence in the quality of this product (or under the guise of SN, for example, they sell you SG)! Judge for yourself, and CASTROL, and MOBIL, and SHELL, and TOTAL, and ELF, and LIQUI MOLY are certified by API classes, but some "pseudo-German" oil in a tin can is not. Draw your own conclusions. The easiest way to check this is directly on the API site - https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch. Using the example in the photo below, you can make sure that the quality level of the requested product matches its description, officially verified by the American Petroleum Institute. By the way, LUKOIL oil has more than 70 such confirmations https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsProductResults?accountId=-1&brandName=lukoil
3. Viscosity
The optimal viscosity for our climate is SAE 5w-40 and 10w-40. But in general, AVTOSAZ, as you have already seen, regulates a fairly wide range (depending on climatic conditions). In the latest edition of the manual from ZAZ, these are 5w-40, 10w-40 and 15w-40 (according to one version of the manual, even 5w-30, although in fact there is no urgent need for such a "non-viscous" oil).
4. Availability of official approvals
Availability official approvals automakers - an additional advantage. However, keep in mind that for the Lanos motor, there are no special requirements for tolerances from GM. Requirements, by the way, as well as API classes, can be checked online. It is advisable to do so. Since recently, manufacturers of the so-called "GERMAN OIL" have entered the market, bottled in all the same domestic factories, posing as a "quality German brand". Read any permit on the canister and check its relevance with the data on the permit issuer's website. For example:
mercedes benz - https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/bevo-blaetter-sort1.html(select required tolerance)
GM - www.centerforqa.com/dexos/ (select Dexos 1 or Dexos 2)
and so on.
Somehow, a few years ago, one notorious forum about oils caught my eye, from which I managed to borrow these photos:
INTRODUCTION
Daewoo Lanos compact car with transverse engine and front-wheel drive, first shown on Geneva Motor Show in 1997, represented the South Korean automaker in the very serious European size class C. Good performance and driving performance, comfort and stylish appearance combined with more than reasonable price made this car very popular among buyers. As often happens in such cases, the model became widespread and began to be produced under different brands and names in different countries: in Korea, Vietnam, Poland (Daewoo-FSO plant), Ukraine (AvtoZAZ - Daewoo) and Russia (Doninvest).
The development of the concept of the Lanos model was the Sens car that appeared in 2007, produced for the domestic market of Ukraine in Zaporozhye car factory. Like Lanos, the model is available in hatchback and sedan bodies. Since 2009, the model has been exported to Russia, where it is sold under the name ZAZ Chance.
The appearance of the car is practically no different from the Lanos prototype - a pleasant exterior and a good quality of fit. The only differences are in the grille, rear design and some trim elements.
The interior is also slightly different from Lanos. Silence and peace reigns inside the salon thanks to excellent sound insulation. All panels are installed qualitatively, the gaps are uniform. During the movement, nothing creaks, the seats are comfortable and comfortable, their adjustments are enough for a person of any height and build to be able to find the position he needs.
volume luggage compartment with a completely flat floor is enough to go on a short trip. However, if this volume becomes small, you can fold the backs rear seats and thus gain almost 640 liters of additional space.
In addition to the usual passenger versions, the model is offered as a van for commercial transport. The technology for the production of "heels" is quite common: from passenger car take a platform with the front part of the body (along the middle pillars), instead of rear doors between racks and rear arches a power frame of rectangular pipes is welded into the gaps. All this is covered with a fiberglass cap, which goes to the roof in front, and descends from the sides to the level of thresholds. In the stern there are two doors of unequal width, which swing open at an angle of up to 180 °. Volume cargo compartment machine is 2.8 m3, and the load capacity is 550 kg. The large door opening and low loading height greatly facilitate loading and unloading operations.
Gasoline engines are installed on the car: 1.3-, 1.4- and 1.5-liter in-line fours with distributed fuel injection with a capacity of 70, 77 and 86 Horse power respectively. The 1.3-liter MeM3-307.C engine produced in Melitopol is the main difference between Sens and Lanos. By content harmful substances V exhaust gases this unit matches environmental standard EURO III.
All engines are aggregated with a five-speed mechanical box transmission, originally designed for Tavria. Clear gear shifting is not satisfactory, and acceleration from standstill to 100 km / h, provided by this transmission, takes about 15 seconds. Moderately short shifts of the lever, soft gear shifting and slightly slow operation of synchronizers are conducive to a measured, unhurried driving style.
Ukrainian bestseller adopted everything from an ancestor best qualities. So, chassis with McPherson-type front struts, despite its simplicity, it is quite reliable and at the same time moderately tough. The car has no wobble or wobble when driving. TO rear suspension there are no complaints either, since the design in the form of a twisting beam has shown itself exclusively on the positive side over the years.
The steering gear is available with or without power. The amplifier version has less gear ratio, so it reacts more sharply to the behavior of the steering wheel. The amplifier itself works with a variable gain, which depends on the speed of movement. On high speed it practically turns off, and when parking and at low speeds, it makes turning the steering wheel as easy as possible. The advantage of the steering mechanism is its layout. Steering rods are attached to the swing arms telescopic racks not down like most front-wheel drive foreign cars, but at the top. This design avoids deformation of the steering rods in contact with curbs and road defects.
There is no reason to worry about the operation of the car in winter period when tons of reagents are poured onto the roads, which adversely affect the condition of the body, since it is all (including the roof) covered with a zinc-nickel composition.
Ease of operation and repair, quality, reliability, and availability of spare parts make the car not only attractive, but also raise it to a slightly different, higher rank compared to classmates in this price range.
This manual provides instructions for the operation and repair of all modifications car ZAZ Sens/Chance/Sens PickUp.
| ZAZ Sens/Chance/Sens PickUp | ||
| 1.3 i (70 HP) Body type: sedan/hatchback Engine size: 1299 cm3 |
Doors: 3/4/5 Drive: front |
Fuel: gasoline AI-95 Consumption (city/highway): 10.0/5.5 l/100 km |
| 1.4 i (77 HP) Body type: sedan/hatchback Engine size: 1386 cm3 |
Doors: 3/4/5 Gearbox: five-speed manual Drive: front |
Fuel: gasoline AI-95 Capacity fuel tank: 48 l Consumption (city/highway): 10.2/5.7 l/100 km |
| 1.5 i (86 HP) Body Style: Sedan/Hatchback/Van Engine size: 1498 cm3 |
Doors: 3/4/5 Gearbox: five-speed manual Drive: front |
Fuel: gasoline AI-95 Fuel tank capacity: 48 l Consumption (city/highway): 12.6/6.2 l/100 km |
Article by car engine oil change Daewoo Sens(Daewoo Sense). This article provides advice on choosing engine oil and oil filter For Daewoo car Sens. Also, there is a list necessary tool, without which an oil change will not be possible.
For replacement engine oils car Daewoo Sens we will need:
- canister engine oil volume 3.5 - 4 liters with viscosity grade SAE: 20W40, 15W40, 10W40, 5W40(we choose depending on the seasonal conditions and the thickness of the wallet)
- Oil filter(when buying, we clarify that we need the filter specifically for Sens, and not for Lanos! Otherwise, when installing the filter, you will not be in for a pleasant surprise).
- If engine oil has not changed for a long time or you decide to change the brand and grade of oil, then in this case it will be necessary to flush the engine. For this purpose we buy flushing oil (canister volume from 3 to 4 liters).
- A container for draining old oil, with a volume of at least 5 liters and a watering can for accurately pouring new oil into the engine.
- And of course the tool (Photo 1), an 8mm square key and a special key for removal oil filter(you can use the same as in the photo or its variants, since there are no problems with the tool on the markets). In case of absence special key, you can use a screwdriver, but more on that below.
Now consider the replacement process itself engine oil step by step:
- Before changing the oil, the engine must be warmed up to operating temperature- 80C.
- Using a square wrench, unscrew the drain plug (Photo 2) on the engine crankcase and drain the oil into a container. While the oil is draining, we inspect the condition of the sealing ring on the drain plug and if it is damaged, then it should be replaced.
- If you decide to flush the engine, then after the old oil is glass, we twist the drain plug into the crankcase and fill it with flushing oil into the engine (at least 3 liters).
- Start the engine and let it run for Idling 10-15 minutes, then drain flushing oil(see point 2).
- After the used oil is glass, we twist the drain plug and proceed to remove the oil filter.
- If you have a special key, unscrew the oil filter quickly and cleanly (Photo 3). If there is no special key, then you can try to unscrew the filter with your hands, first wrap it with a rag or sandpaper. The filter can also be unscrewed with a screwdriver (we pierce the filter closer to the bottom and use this lever to unscrew the filter).
- When old filter removed, wiped from oil and dirt seat oil filter.
- Before installing a new filter, pre-fill it with new oil and do not forget to lubricate the rubber ring. We twist the filter by hand, without using a tool.
- Next, unscrew the filler cap on the engine and using a watering can (preferably), fill in a new engine oil.
- Using a dipstick, we check the oil level, somewhere 2-3 mm to the MAX mark (Photo 4), but by no means higher.
- We twist the filler cap, insert the dipstick into place and start the engine. The oil pressure sensor should go out within 3-4 seconds, if this does not happen, then immediately turn off the engine.
- If everything goes well, then let the engine run for 1-2 minutes, after which we turn it off. We wait a little and once again check the oil level with the dipstick. Top up if necessary!
- At the end, we check if there is an oil leak in the area drain plug and oil filter. It is also worth checking once again whether the cap is properly tightened. filler neck and whether the dipstick is fully seated.
Budget compact Chevrolet car Lanos was designed by Daewoo and introduced in 1997. Depending on the region of sales and modification, the model was also called Daewoo Lanos, Daewoo Sens, ZAZ Chance, FSO Lanos, Doninvest Assol. Lanos was produced in sedan, 3- and 5-door hatchback bodies and was equipped with gasoline engines with a volume of 1.3 - 1.6 liters and a power of 63 - 106 hp, 5-speed manual and 4-speed automatic transmissions. In Russia, the most common cars are models with an 8-valve 1.5-liter engine with 86 hp.
What kind of oil to fill in Chevrolet Lanos depends on the mileage of the car and the conditions of its operation.
TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 5W40
Synthetically produced TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 5W40 oil is considered universal and can be used as engine oil for Chevrolet Lanos of all modifications when the manufacturer indicates the level of properties ACEA oils A3/B4 and API SN. It has excellent operational characteristics and guarantees engine protection against wear and harmful deposits in all conditions, including sports driving and city driving in start-stop mode. high fluidity and low temperature hardening TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 5W40 provide a confident cold start and allow this oil to be used in Lanos engine year-round, including in regions with a harsh climate. Its resistance to oxidation ensures the stability of the oil properties in Chevrolet Lanos even after long drain runs. TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 5W40 complies with current international ACEA A3/B4 and API SN standards.
TOTAL QUARTZ 7000 10W40
As engine oil for Chevrolet Lanos with long runs TOTAL experts recommend TOTAL QUARTZ 7000 10W40. It is characterized by increased viscosity and provides reliable lubrication and wear protection of motors with increased gaps between parts. The use of this oil in Chevrolet engine Lanos improves its efficiency and extends its service life. A complex of dispersant additives TOTAL oils QUARTZ 7000 10W40 keeps the engine clean, and oxidation stability preserves its protective properties for a long time. Compliance with ACEA A3 / B4 and API SN quality standards allows this oil to be used in Lanos of all modifications where this level of properties is required and using unleaded gasoline or liquefied gas as fuel.
As the owner of ZAZ-Lanos, I want to get to know its engine in more detail. Who developed it? What other models does it fit? Does it have a variable valve timing system? What maximum mileage before overhaul? Which oils - mineral or synthetic - is it preferable to use?
The Daewoo Lanos 1.5 SOHC engine was developed by Daewoo specialists in close cooperation with German engine builders. His pedigree originates from the engines of Opel-Kadet cars, because. the predecessor of Lanos, Nexia, was based on the licensed Cadet. At the same time, the 1.5 SOHC engine was not a copy of Opel's 1.3 SOHC - it increased the working volume both due to the cylinder diameter and piston stroke. Further development its design was the creation of a twin-shaft cylinder head and an increase in displacement from 1498 cc to 1598 cc. see 1.6 16V DOHC twin-shaft head engines first appeared on Daewoo vehicles in 1997 with the start of production of the Lanos model. Structurally, the 1.6-liter engine does not differ in any revolutionary innovations and is a combination of reliable, time-tested elements. There are no valve timing adjustments in the gas distribution mechanism, but there are hydraulic compensators in the valve drive to reduce noise. With minor changes, this engine was installed on Nubira cars, and is currently used on other models. ZAZ-Lanos cars, depending on the configuration, are equipped with both a 1.6-liter engine and a 1.5-liter version. Both engines have good performance and are quite modern.
They were produced, like gearboxes, in Romania, and now in Korea. Approximate mileage before overhaul - 300 thousand km. There are no features of operation of these engines. As in any design, cleanliness is a guarantee of health: given that in Ukraine there is an increased dust content of the air, it is necessary to regularly change the oil, fuel and air filters which will prolong the life of the engine. Oils can be used both mineral and synthetic. They must match the temperature conditions. The main thing is to monitor the regularity of their replacement, since hydraulic lifters are very sensitive to contamination.
I last changed the engine oil (synthetic) two years ago. During these two years, I drove no more than 5 thousand km. Do I need to change the oil now or drive up to 10 thousand km?
The oil needs to be changed, even bearing in mind that the service life of synthetic motor oil is higher than that of mineral oil. All motor oils have a complex structure and are subject to oxidation during use. During this period, the properties of the oil deteriorate greatly. Therefore, regardless of the exhaustion of the mileage resource for any type of oil, it is recommended to change it once a year
Is it possible to add Mobil oil if in an Esso engine? And vice versa, use Esso for topping up, if in a Mobil engine?
One of the main principles in the design of oils is the admissibility of their mixing without catastrophic consequences for the unit. For this reason, it is permissible to add a substitute to the original oil, but not more than 1/3 of the volume. At the same time, naturally, due to the difference in additives, the properties of the oil will change significantly, which means that its resource will decrease. If possible, this mixed oil should be replaced early.
On my Daewoo Lanos, I constantly use Esso 5W40 synthetic motor oil. I want to change the brand of oil to Mobil 0W40. Do I need to flush the engine when changing the oil? I heard that flushing does more harm than good.
You can change the oil without flushing the engine. Flushing the engine is recommended in case of transition from mineral oil to synthetic. This is recommended for the reason that synthetic oil has detergent property and if you do not flush the engine, the oil will quickly deteriorate due to the washing out of deposits that have appeared in the engine during the period of using mineral oil.
When mixing synthetic oils different manufacturers nothing terrible will happen, all their components are compatible.
What brand of oil and what viscosity is poured into the Lanos engine at ZAZ?
The plant does not regulate a specific engine oil manufacturer. At the factory, the engine is filled with SAE oil 10W3Q API SH.
How long can synthetic engine oil be stored in the "native" oil without damage to the engine? plastic canister?
You can store oil in a hermetically sealed container for quite a long time. But if you drink it, the rest will gradually oxidize (the rate of this process depends on the type of oil and other factors). Therefore, if the canister is incomplete, it is better to pour the oil into a smaller container. Do not forget to leave a small amount in the canister air cushion so that when heated, the expanded oil does not tear out the plug.
The manufacturer of these engines completes them next candles:
for 1.5 SOHC - Champion RN9YC or Woojin BPR6ES, for 1.6 DOHC - Woojin BKR6E-11.
According to special catalogs, you can choose similar candles from other manufacturers. The ZAZ plant does not prescribe the use of spark plugs from any particular manufacturer.
But you need to pay attention that the candles that you install are identical in their characteristics to those used by the motor plant.
It is not necessary to reduce the gap between the electrodes in winter.
Looked at the spark plugs. They have a red coating on the electrodes - probably due to the "95th" gasoline with iron additives. Is the use of such candles harmful to the car?
When using fuel with iron-containing additives that increase octane number, there is a deposition of iron oxides on the electrodes of the candles. It is better not to use such candles: their service life is greatly reduced, this can cause the ignition system to work intermittently, which in turn can lead to failure of the converter exhaust gases. In addition, interruptions in operation can lead to uncontrolled heating of the converter and a fire, so it is necessary to monitor engine operation and replace failed parts in time. Oxides are deposited not only on candles, but also on oxygen sensor and the surface of the neutralizer, which practically disables them.
Taking into account the unstable quality of Ukrainian fuel in service book control of candles is provided for a run of 20 thousand km.
Why are Sense engines not equipped with better seals?
Now, Korean fluoroelastomer oil seals are installed on engines and gearboxes manufactured by MEMP, since the Ukrainian supplier of these products could not ensure their quality.
My Lanos had a 7-8 cm through crack in the corrugated pipe that goes from the air cleaner to the engine. I didn’t notice it right away, and it’s possible that I drove several thousand km with it. I put a new pipe, but the car now shudders when the engine is cold, although I did not notice this before. Replaced spark plugs - didn't help. Could gasoline be the cause? Could a crack in the air duct cause clogging of the injectors?
Yes, the crack could be the cause of the unstable operation of the engine, but not the clogging of the injectors. Dust that got into intake tract through the crack, bypassing the filter, acts as an abrasive that can lead to premature wear engine. But it cannot get into the nozzles in this way. Poor quality fuel can clog fuel injectors, but in this case, interruptions would be on a hot engine, as well as skips in the operation of the cylinders when low revs. And the interruptions on a cold engine, which you described and which disappear when warmed up, are symptomatic of the ignition system. In addition to spark plugs, you can check the wires and candlesticks, the problem may be in them.
In my "Lanos" with a 1.6 liter engine, the idle speed "freezes" - approximately at the level of 1800-2000 rpm. Stopping and restarting the engine does not help - normal idling is restored only after the car starts and passes a little. Fuel consumption is very high: in the city 12 l, on the highway - 8.8 l / 100 km. What to do?
A comprehensive check of the system is required to resolve this defect. multipoint injection fuel and possibly reprogramming electronic block engine control.
On the Lanos with a 1.5 liter engine, oil oozes from under the cylinder head (the leak is small, but noticeable by the oil film on the flea metal). Looks like the gasket has worn out and needs to be replaced. But I heard that sealant plays the role of a gasket in these engines. Is it true? And what is the best thing to do in this situation?
In the engine of the Lanos car, an ordinary gasket is used under the head of the block. Most likely, oil seeps in the area of \u200b\u200bpassage oil channel. The gasket will need to be replaced. It is necessary to carefully inspect the engine before deciding to replace it, because sometimes oil oozes over the camshaft oil seal and then spreads over the head and block connector.
Decided to change the spark plugs in Lanos. But I noticed in one of candle wells engine oil. What is the reason? where did it come from? Can I be to blame valve stem seals?
The issue seems to be in the gasket. valve cover. The slightest defect or crack in the gasket will do the trick.
I know that the Chevrolet Lanos timing belt needs to be changed every 70 thousand km. And if the mileage is only 25 thousand, but the car is 6 years old? Does the timing belt deteriorate when the car is stored?
In general, the belt wears out during load. It is necessary to inspect the belt for visible damage and if there is any doubt, it is better to replace it.
When starting the Chevrolet Lanos engine, the AirBag and ABS lights are on for a while. Is it permissible to start moving before they go out?
Indeed, when the ignition is turned on, the AirBag and ABS systems are interrogated and checked. If there are no deviations in the systems, the lamps go out. Vehicle movement during system checks is permissible and has no negative consequences.
In my Chevrolet Lanos, the engine idling is very noisy and vibrates. I fill only "95th" gasoline. In the warranty workshop they said that this should be the case during the break-in. But my friend also has a new Lanos, but his engine is much quieter. What is the reason? Bulb " check engine» does not light up. Spark plugs are in order.
The reasons may be different. But you need to check the valve timing (the position of the belt and marks), and check the installation of the engine on the supports - does it come into contact anywhere with the body. This is just a guess, for more exact definition need to be near the car
Chevrolet Lanos 1.5 L. Mileage 30 thousand km. Our gasoline is known to be of poor quality. The engine began to vibrate noticeably (there is no vibration on the steering wheel). Do I need to do diagnostics? When should injectors be flushed?
Any abnormal work engine - a reason for its diagnosis. If the engine vibrates, there are interruptions in its operation, if the “Check” light flashes, if you notice that fuel consumption has increased sharply, if you experience dips during acceleration, loss of power, the car accelerates poorly and slowly, you need to check the fuel injection system. During diagnostics, the electronic components of the system are checked, fuel pump, nozzles, spray pattern, nozzle flow, etc. If the check reveals that the nozzles are clogged, then they need to be washed.
Do I need to warm up before driving? injection engine Or can you just start moving slowly?
A modern injection engine and its systems are designed in such a way that there is no need to warm it up before a trip. Start driving immediately, without overloading the engine, moderately. And so it even warms up faster than on idling, in addition, the transmission will also warm up. It should be noted that, for example, European countries it is generally forbidden to warm up the engine on a stationary car - care for the environment! Indeed, in this mode of operation of the engine, a lot of toxic elements are released. We don’t really care about this yet, but it’s time to!
Yes, many would not warm up the engine, but do it out of ignorance, or force of habit acts.
I have a Daewoo-L1Z00 car, i.e. "Sens", with carbureted engine 1.3. His body is modern, and the engine is outdated. Can I install an injector on it and put a box from a Chevrolet Lanos 1.4 l? How to do it?
This is unjustified work. To make such a permutation, you need to replace a very large number of parts. This intake manifold, receiver, manifold mounting studs, pistons, starter, engine wiring harness, flywheel, clutch assembly, you will need to install an adapter plate to mount the gearbox from Lanos. In addition, it is necessary to replace the support brackets, the gearshift mechanism, the axle shafts, it is necessary to install the fuel pump in the gas tank. Some of the parts are not sold as spare parts. In addition, the implementation of some of these works will require factory conditions, and they will not do this there.
