Any motorist can repair the front axle of the UAZ Loaf and UAZ 469 with their own hands. This work is easy. Structurally, both of these models are similar. This is especially true for the suspension. The frame design implies ease of dismantling the front axle and high vehicle reliability. There are some differences in the spring and spring suspension. But these features do not greatly affect the complexity of the work.
Almost no special tools are needed for repairs. All work is carried out with a minimum set of tools available to each driver.
Regular work
Do-it-yourself repair of the front axle of the UAZ Loaf and UAZ 469 is simple. Most often, during operation, it is necessary to carry out various preventive work. As a rule, they do not require removal and disassembly of the bridge. The care list includes:
- Pivots are checked for gaps;
- Threaded connections must be periodically tightened;
- Convergence is checked;
- The requirements of the parts lubrication tables are followed.
Withdrawal
Repair of this node begins with the dismantling of the bridge. On a loaf and a goat, these works are performed identically. There are only small differences. When performing repairs, you need to be extremely careful. Removing the bridge is a series of simple steps:
- You should start by ensuring the immobility of the car. For this, anti-recoil brake pads are installed;
- Further on the "goat" the brake pipes are disconnected from the hoses. On the Loaf, the tubes have transition pipes. In this case, the hoses are disconnected from the nozzles;
- Remove the nuts securing the lower shock absorber cups. This item is the same on both machines.
- Next, unscrew the bolts connecting the drive gear flange and the front cardan. Before this, you need to fill in the threaded connection;
- Remove traction from the bipod. The nut located on the ball pin is twisted;
- Twist the nuts that secure the spring ladders. Disassemble them with overlays;
- They will jack up the frame in front of the car, roll out the bridge.
Parsing
When carrying out repairs, it is necessary to put the unit on the stand. This will make disassembly easier. After that, remove the wheels. Next, proceed to disassembly:
- Dismantle the bipod. The nut securing the traction pin and the steering knuckle arm is twisted;
- Next, unscrew the bolts securing the brake drums. At the same time, the couplings used for wheel disconnection are removed;
- Proceed to the disassembly of the hub. Begin this work by straightening the edges of the locking washer. Next, the nut with the lock nut is twisted, this allows you to remove the washer immediately with the inner ring and hub roller bearings. After that, the rest of the hub is removed (see article "");
- Remove the brake shield, this is done by unscrewing the bolts. It is necessary to remove the trunnions with knuckle joints;
- The steering trapezoid rod is disassembled, for this you will need to unscrew the trapezoid fastening nuts;
- To remove the ball joint, unscrew the bolts of its fastening to the axle shaft. Dismantle support-limiters. Produce the pressing out of the supports;
- Remove the shims used to adjust the knuckle and lever. Next, unscrew the nuts securing the upper king pin cover. Also come from the bottom. Remove the ball joint seal. Then the pins are pressed out. Disassembly completed.
Repair. After disassembly, all parts are washed in gasoline and lubricated. Faulty ones are replaced with new ones. The assembly takes place exactly the opposite, while it is necessary to clarify some of the nuances of the process.
When replacing the pivot bushings specifically in the ball joint, it is necessary to tighten them up to 25 mm at the end of the pressing. Lubricant needs to be put in. Do-it-yourself repair of the front axle of the UAZ Loaf and UAZ 469 is not so difficult, but accuracy is needed. For example, when installing a ball seal, the ring for it must be impregnated with hot oil. After assembly, the operability of the bridge is checked using a stand.
The vehicle suspension consists of four longitudinal semi-elliptical springs, working in conjunction with double-acting hydraulic telescopic shock absorbers ( , ).
The front springs of cars of the UAZ-31512 family consist of 8 sheets, the rear springs of 7 or 9 sheets, depending on the configuration.
The front and rear springs of cars of the UAZ-3741 family are the same and interchangeable, they consist of 13 sheets. The mounting of the front and rear springs is the same.
For individual cars of the UAZ-31512 family (including all UAZ-3153 cars), a front spring suspension () and a rear suspension with leaf springs () are installed.
The small-leaf spring consists of 3 sheets (for the UAZ-3153 car - from 4 sheets).
The front and rear shock absorbers () of all cars, except cars with spring suspension, are the same and interchangeable.
For vehicles with front spring suspension and rear suspension with leaf springs, the front shock absorbers are shorter (by 25 mm).
Shock absorbers with a cylinder diameter of 35 and 40 mm can be installed in complete sets on cars. It is allowed to install shock absorbers of different dimensions along the axles.
Maintenance
Periodically check the condition of the springs, suspension springs and shock absorbers, their fastening and eliminate the identified malfunctions.
Leaf springs should not have cracks. Shearing the center bolt of the spring can cause longitudinal displacement of the sheets, and loosening of the stepladders can cause transverse displacement of the sheets.
To prevent corrosion and eliminate creaking, lubricate the leaf springs according to the instructions in the lubrication table.
Knocks and squeaks in the lugs of the springs and hinges of the spring suspension indicate wear or incomplete tightening of the rubber bushings or wear of the rubber-metal joints. In this case, replace the hinges and bushings or tighten the bushings more tightly. To increase the tension in the bushings of the springs, install rubber gaskets (rings) cut from a chamber or similar rubber between them.
A sign of shock absorber failure is prolonged swaying of the vehicle after driving over a bump in the road.
When servicing shock absorbers, periodically inspect and tighten their fastening in a timely manner, as well as check the condition of the rubber bushings in the ears.
The shock absorber does not require special adjustments during operation.
Dismantle shock absorbers only in the following cases:
- the occurrence of an unrecoverable fluid leak;
– loss of shock absorber forces during tension or compression;
- fluid replacement.
The shock absorber should not be disassembled unless absolutely necessary.
Before disassembling the shock absorber, clean it of dirt, thoroughly rinse and wipe it. Perform disassembly and reassembly under conditions that ensure complete cleanliness.
After the first 3000 km of run or when fluid leaks through the stuffing box 15 (see) of the rod and sealing rings 14.16, tighten the nut 18. The tightening torque is 78–98 N m (8–10 kgf m). If the leakage does not stop, remove the shock absorber, disassemble, inspect the o-rings and the hole of the guide sleeve 13 of the rod. Replace stem seal, stem guide, reservoir O-rings, and other parts that are worn on the inner diameter. Install the rubber seal 15 with the inscription “bottom” on it to the piston.
When installing the oil seal, lubricate its internal surfaces mating with the rod with shock absorber fluid to reduce wear and prevent squeaking.
Reduced shock absorber performance or failure may be caused by clogged valve systems, settling of valve springs, or broken parts. In such cases, disassemble the shock absorber, wash and replace sagging or broken springs and parts.
Repair
Removal, disassembly and assembly of springs for cars of the UAZ-31512 family
Remove the front spring in the following order:
2. Place the front of the car on a stand.
3. Turn away bolts of fastening of an arm 7 and a nut of an axis 16 ear of a spring.
4. Remove the spring 13 and disassemble the earring with rubber bushings 8.
Install the spring in reverse order.
Remove and install the rear spring in the same way as the front. When installing the front and rear springs on the car, the bent lugs on the first two sheets must face forward.
Make the final tightening of the spring ladder nuts with loaded springs.
2. Unbend the spring collars.
Assemble the spring in the reverse order, taking into account the following:
1. Before assembly, lubricate the leaf springs according to the lubrication table.
2. Securely rivet the clamps to the sheets, the ends of the clamp rivets should not protrude above the surface of the sheets.
3. Clamps after assembling the spring should not interfere with the free movement of sheets during operation.
4. After assembly, paint the spring.
Features of dismantling the front spring suspension
1. Disconnect the lower lugs of the shock absorbers 22 from the longitudinal rods 1 by unscrewing the nuts and removing the bolts.
2. Raise and place the front of the vehicle on a stand.
3. Remove springs 12 and vibration-absorbing pads 15.
4. Turn away bolts of fastening of buffers 21.
5. Reassemble in reverse order.
Replacement of rubber-metal hinges 3, support bushings 6 of longitudinal rods and rubber bushings 18, 19 of the stabilizer:
1. Securely fix the car from spontaneous movement.
2. Disconnect the bottom eyes of shock-absorbers from longitudinal bars, having turned away nuts and having taken out bolts.
3. Turn away nuts 7 and beat out bolts of fastening of a longitudinal bar to the bridge.
4. Unpin and unscrew nuts 8.
5. Turn away nuts of step-ladders 20 fastenings of the stabilizer to a bar.
6. Remove the longitudinal bars by sliding the rear end of the bar out of the bracket hole on the frame.
7. Turn away bolts of fastening of the stabilizer to an arm 17.
8. Replace the rubber-metal hinges 3. The hinges are replaced using special mandrels on the pressing equipment. All joints must be replaced at the same time.
9. Remove bushings 19 from the stabilizer and put on new ones.
10. Replace the bushings 18 and tighten the bolts securing the stabilizer to the bracket 17.
11. Put a washer and a support rubber hinge 6 on the rear end of the rod 1, insert the rod into the hole of the bracket 5, put on the second rubber hinge and washer, screw on the nut 8.
12. Insert the front end of the rod into the bracket 4, install new bolts and tighten the nuts 7.
13. Install the second rod in the same way.
14. Tighten nuts 7 to a torque of 14–16 kgf m. Tighten nuts 8 to the stop and cotter them.
15. Install stepladders 20 securing the stabilizer to the bar and tighten the nuts of the ladders.
16. Connect the lower lugs of the shock absorbers to the longitudinal bars by inserting the bolts and tightening the nuts.
Replacing the transverse link 2 or rubber-metal joints 9:
1. Remove the bolt and nut securing the tie rod to the axle and frame.
2. Remove the tie rod.
3. Replace the hinges in the same way as the trailing rod hinges.
4. Install the linkage and secure it using new bolts.
5. Tighten the nut and bolt to a torque of 14–16 kgf m.
Removal, disassembly and assembly of springs for cars of the UAZ-3741 family
Remove the springs in the following order:
1. Unscrew the nuts of the ladders 16 (see) of the springs, remove the ladders, lining 14 and pad 4 of the spring.
2. Disconnect the lower eyelet of the shock absorber.
3. Place the front of the car on a stand.
4. Turn away bolts of fastening of covers of arms 1 and 9 and remove covers.
5. Remove springs with rubber pads. Install the springs in reverse order. At the same time, straighten the spring using the special tool (). In the absence of a special device, we recommend installing the spring in the following order:
1. Secure the springs with stepladders to the axle.
2. Install the spring pads on its ends.
3. Gradually lowering the car onto the bridge with springs and guiding the springs with the lever, achieve alternate installation of the ends of the spring with pillows in its brackets.
4. Replace the bracket covers and tighten the bracket bolts.
Remove and install the rear spring in the same way as the front.
Disassemble the spring in the following order:
1. Secure the spring in a vise to the head of the center bolt.
2. Unbend the spring collars.
3. Turn away a nut of a central bolt and disassemble a spring. After dismantling, carefully clean the sheets of dirt, rinse in kerosene, replace broken sheets.
Rice. 4.7) unscrew the reservoir nut.
2. Slightly rocking the upper end, remove the rod together with the piston from the working cylinder. When doing this, be especially careful not to damage the polished surface of the rod.
3. Remove the working cylinder from the tank and completely drain the shock absorber fluid.
4. Secure the stem in a vise to the top mounting eye, unscrew the piston nut. Remove the piston with valve parts, guide and stuffing box.
Wash all parts of the shock absorber in gasoline or kerosene. Carefully inspect the washed and dried parts and identify those that need to be repaired or replaced.
When inspecting the details of the valve assemblies, pay special attention to the condition of the valve edges. If there are scratches, signs of significant wear and other defects on the shut-off surface of the valve or its seat, remove them by lapping. Replace valve parts that show cracks and breaks during inspection.
Assemble the shock absorber in the reverse order, taking into account the following:
1. Soak a new polyurethane foam seal with shock absorber fluid before installation.
2. Install the rubber stem seal into the cage so that the inscription “bottom” on it is facing the piston. Before installing the stuffing box on the rod, moisten its internal surfaces mating with the rod with shock absorber fluid.
3. Install the working cylinder with the compression valve assembly pressed into it into the tank, then fill in the shock absorber fluid (320 cm 3 - for shock absorbers with a cylinder diameter of 35 mm; 345 cm 3 - with a diameter of 40 mm; 295 cm 3 - for the front shock absorbers of cars with spring suspension), while filling the cylinder to the top, and pour the rest of the liquid into the reservoir.
To fill shock absorbers, use shock absorber fluid in accordance with the lubrication table. The amount of liquid to be filled must also strictly correspond to the filling volume of the shock absorber. The allowable difference can be no more than ± 5 cm 3. Failure to follow these recommendations will lead to disruption of the shock absorber and even its failure.
4. Insert the rod with the piston into the working cylinder, close the cylinder with the guide and then, carefully straightening the reservoir gland along the end of the guide, tighten the reservoir nut.
Pump the newly assembled shock absorber before putting it on the car by moving the rod until the force becomes constant over the entire stroke. This is necessary to remove air from the cavities of the working cylinder.
SUVs produced by UAZ have gained considerable popularity in the vast expanses of Russia, but many UAZs have one big drawback - a low level of comfort.
- 1 Do-it-yourself tuning UAZ "loaf"
- 2 Tuning salon UAZ "loaf"
- 3 External tuning "Loaf"
- 4 Suspension tuning UAZ Loaf
- 5 Engine tuning UAZ Loaf
Also, cars of the UAZ 452/3303 series are not very convenient to use, so many car owners are trying to modernize the car by making various improvements to it. Tuning UAZ "loaf" - the topic is relevant, interesting to many motorists.
Do-it-yourself tuning UAZ "loaf"
UAZ-452 cross-country vehicles are distinguished by excellent technical characteristics, and the off-road vehicle is practically unrivaled. UAZ "loaf" is one of those few cars that are not in a hurry to be scrapped, very often these cars are restored, tuning is done. Moreover, almost any components and parts in the car are subject to modernization, ranging from the interior and body, ending with the power unit, axles and suspension.
Unfortunately, the Ulyanovsk plant did not take much care of the comfort of the driver and passengers of the SUV, and often the owners of the cars have to bring the UAZ to mind on their own. Another drawback of the “loaf” is instability on the road at speeds over 90 kilometers per hour, but even here car owners are not lost, they modernize the suspension, change the castor (wheel angle).
What can you do with a loaf of your own hands:
- make a front and rear suspension lift;
- install a more powerful and high-torque motor on the machine;
- equip the SUV with additional light;
- change civilian bridges to military ones;
- repaint the body in metallic, or apply airbrushing;
- tinted side and rear windows;
- change front and rear bumpers;
- complete the car with a winch;
- install a body kit - kanguring, roof rack, ladder to the back door;
- change wheels to larger ones with better tread;
- install a pre-heater in the car.
In general, you can still do a lot of things, the main thing is that for tuning the UAZ "loaf" with your own hands, there is enough imagination, skill and money.
Tuning salon UAZ "loaf"
Sitting in the UAZ on the “native” seats is extremely inconvenient, and when it comes to tuning the interior of the UAZ “loaf”, first of all, car owners change the seats in the car. It makes little sense to refine the "seats", it is easier to "introduce" seats from some foreign car or Russian car.
But there is one problem - there is very little space in the front passenger and driver's seats, and not all "foreign" seats will fit here. If we consider the "seats" from Russian cars, then seats from the "Oka", "Nine", "forty-first Moskvich" will enter the salon in front. True, spare parts from Russian cars do not differ in high quality, so it’s better to take chairs from foreign cars:
- Mitsubishi Delica;
- Honda Civic;
- Toyota RAV4;
- Opel Astra;
- Volkswagen Passat B3.
The seats should not be wide, otherwise they do not fit in the cabin. But this is not the most important thing - it is important that they are not high, then it will be impossible to sit behind the wheel. 
If the car goes on a long trip, such as fishing or hunting, it is important to organize comfortable sleeping places. Tuning the cabin for fishing also provides for the installation of a table at which one could dine during the trip. Of course, it’s nice to have a picnic on the shore, but the weather is not always good, and you can’t sit outside much in the rain. 
It is equally important to carry out normal lighting in the rear passenger compartment - again, the “native” light leaves much to be desired. But here it should be borne in mind that a large number of interior ceiling lamps “eat up” a lot of electricity, so even a fairly good battery can be easily planted. There is a way out of their situation, you need to put LED lights instead of ordinary light bulbs, and they have many advantages:
- little electricity is consumed;
- LED lamps look aesthetically pleasing;
- illuminate the LEDs brighter;
- These bulbs are much more durable.
There is also a drawback - LEDs are noticeably more expensive, but once you install such lighting, you can forget about replacing light bulbs for a long time. 
Another drawback of the UAZ is the stubby standard steering wheel, and many drivers do not like it. You can try to replace the steering wheel with something of a better quality, but there is one problem here - the steering wheel is not easy to pick up by slots. Many car owners put the steering wheel from the Gazelle, but without alteration it turns out to be too high. Specially adapted steering wheels for UAZs are sold in car dealerships, they are the easiest to change. Another option is to install the steering wheel assembly with the steering column, then everything will definitely fit in the mounts. If there is no desire and opportunity to mess with the steering wheel alteration, you can put a braid on the rim, it will also fit from the Gazelle.
The instrument panel of the UAZ “loaf” looks quite primitive, and in order to somehow improve it, some car owners paste over the “tidy” with a film. You can also put a dashboard from a GAZ-3110 or Gazelle, but there will already be more alterations here. 
External tuning "Loaf"
UAZ 3303 is a very durable and reliable car, however, its body and body elements are subject to corrosion. First of all, the doors, body frame, and floor begin to rot. If rust has gone through the body, repairs are required, and welding is indispensable here. After work, the body of the loaf is treated with a composition of red lead with drying oil, and there are also special tools for processing body iron.
After welding and straightening work, body painting is required, but painting the car in a standard green color is not interesting. UAZs are tuned in different ways, and on the roads you can often see “loaves” of tuning:
A body kit plays a significant role in tuning, and it is needed not only for beauty:
- kanguring and power bumpers protect the body from impacts;
- roof rack allows you to unload the interior of the car, take more cargo with you.
Body kit elements for external tuning for UAZ can be bought at car dealerships, the most popular is RIF products. On the factory-made power front bumper, you can attach a mechanical or electric winch, which is simply necessary in off-road conditions. 
Also, the roof rack is not for beauty, but you still want it to look aesthetically pleasing. To make a nice homemade trunk, you need to have locksmith skills and experience, and without a certain skill it is still better to buy finished products in car dealerships. Factory forwarding trunks are provided with brackets for installing additional light, the factory product is capable of withstanding a load of up to 200-300 kg. In addition to its main task to transport goods, the trunk also performs additional functions:
- protects the roof from all kinds of damage;
- serves to accommodate additional light lanterns;
- can carry a spare tire, for this a special mount is provided on the trunk.
Additional light is of great importance on the UAZ, it is rather problematic to move in the dark without good powerful headlights. Additional light is installed not only on the roof, but also in front, on the power bumper (kenguring). It is best to install LED headlights, they have a number of advantages:
- LED lamps last a very long time, the service life of the lamps is from 25 to 50 thousand hours;
- the lighting is bright, close to natural light;
- LEDs consume very little energy, approximately 10-15 times less than halogen lamps.
But LEDs also have their drawbacks - for the time being, lighting devices of this type are quite expensive, and if the LEDs burn out, you have to change the entire headlight. 
Suspension tuning UAZ Loaf
Some motorists ask the question - why do we need off-road tuning if the UAZ already has a very good cross-country ability? Of course, the “loaf” is well adapted to rough terrain, however, it can get bogged down in impassable mud. To make it easier to overcome roads, the suspension of the UAZ 452/ 3303/ 3962 car and other modifications is subjected to lifting - with the help of special spacers for the springs, the ground clearance is increased.
It should be noted that in order to increase the clearance, it is possible to carry out not only a suspension lift, but also from the body itself. In order to raise the body relative to the road, additional spacers are laid between the chassis and the frame. The frame is attached to the body with ten bolts and nuts, but sometimes it is not easy to unscrew the fasteners, since the nuts and bolts become rusty over time, and sometimes it can be quite problematic to dismantle them.
You can carry out a suspension lift using additional leaf springs, as well as installing spacers between the axles and springs (they also put elongated spring earrings). Car shops sell special lifting kits, and you can increase the ground clearance to different heights - 20, 30, 40 and 50 millimeters. But if you are going to lift the body high relative to the road, it must be borne in mind that in this case the car loses stability, and there is a danger of overturning. 
Engine tuning UAZ Loaf
Old UAZ-452 models were equipped with the engine of the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant UMZ-451, as well as other modifications of the ICE produced by UMZ (414/417/4178). Later on UAZ "loaves" appeared ICEs of the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant, such as ZMZ-402 (4021) and ZMZ-409. Ulyanovsk motors of the first releases hardly make sense to upgrade, in the event of an engine failure, it is easier to replace it. But ZMZ engines are being tuned, and not so rarely.
What needs to be done to increase the power of the "402" engine in garage conditions? If the motor has a deformed block head 98 mm high (ZMZ-4021), you can mill the surface of the cylinder head, remove 4 mm. Thus, the motor will be adapted to run on AI-92 gasoline. When assembling the piston group, it does not hurt to adjust all pistons and connecting rods by weight, the difference between the connecting rod-piston pair in all cylinders by weight should not exceed 5 grams. Also, to reduce friction between the sleeve and the piston, the piston skirts can be polished with fine sandpaper (No. 1000), but this is done when they are in no hurry to assemble the engine, since it will take a lot of time to polish. It will also be harmless to cut the intake holes in the manifold, as well as in the head of the block, with a cutter - a few horsepower will be added. 
Some car owners bore cylinder liners for +1 mm repair pistons, although there is a +1.5 mm repair on Zavolzhsky 402 engines, but it is quite rare. The bore of the sleeves gives a slight increase in the volume of the cylinders, respectively, and power.
The most popular type of modernization of the ZMZ-409 is chip tuning. To do this, the firmware changes in the internal combustion engine control unit, which also helps to improve the technical characteristics of the motor and increase power.
Replacing the engine with a more advanced one is also a tuning option, many car owners seek to install a more modern engine, but it does not always have to be larger. An internal combustion engine with a large volume does not consume fuel very economically, and therefore often the owners of cars put a diesel engine on the UAZ, which has two main advantages over a gasoline engine:
- diesel fuel consumption is noticeably less;
- diesel ICE has better traction with the same cylinder volume with a gasoline engine.
Russian ZMZ diesel engines are not very reliable, therefore, imported power units are considered to replace the gasoline engine. Often, motors are installed on the UAZ "loaves":
- TD27 (Nissan, 2.7 L);
- OM616 (Mercedes, 2.4 l);
- 1KZ (Toyota, 3.0 l).
As a rule, an imported motor is paired with a foreign gearbox and transfer case, so it becomes necessary to adjust the units to the bridges and make changes to the suspension. Of course, it is possible to put a modern turbodiesel, for example, Cummins 2.8, on a “loaf”, but such a power unit is expensive, and it does not tolerate Russian diesel fuel well.
Lifting options for UAZ Loafs
The owners of the Loaf, starting tuning this car, first of all ask themselves the question: “How to raise the UAZ loaf?”. We will try to answer this question in this article. So, first of all, consider the methods of the UAZ elevator. It could be:
- Body lift UAZ
- Loaf Suspension Lift
Both options have both advantages and disadvantages. So, the Loaf body lift is easier to implement, and also stands out with a greater degree of safety. This is explained by the fact that this method of lifting only slightly shifts the center of gravity of the car, which helps to ensure the stable behavior of the Loaf on turns and other difficult sections of the route.
If we talk about the suspension lift, then there is some danger due to the increase in the center of gravity. But at the same time, this method significantly changes the patency indicators for the better.
Choosing a kit for the UAZ loaf elevator
As we can see, there are several ways to raise the Loaf. Therefore, to determine which lift kit UAZ Loaf will be needed, you can only decide on the choice of the lift method. If you are planning to lift yourself, you can buy a lift kit from the store. Such kits are different in the composition of the parts and elements included in them.
So, a Loaf lift kit may contain:
- spacers "spring - frame";
- spacers "spring - frame"
- bolts;
- nuts, etc.
wheel change
As you know, the patency of the car directly depends on the wheels. Considering that UAZ wheels are shod in rather hard and not too large rubber, before proceeding directly to the elevator, it is necessary to mention the wheels. In addition, the tread pattern on Loaf tires leaves much to be desired. All this suggests that it would not be superfluous to install suitable imported wheels on the legendary car.
As an option, when choosing new wheels for the UAZ "Loaf" car, you can use BF Goodrich 33x10.5 R15 tires, and, accordingly, disks with a diameter of 15 centimeters. As for the choice of disks for them, it depends on the desire of the owner. These can be light alloy or alloy wheels. And you can leave the usual regular disks.
However, you should not stop at this stage, because such tuning makes it difficult to control, because on sharp turns the front wheels catch the edges of the steering rods, and when the effect of crossing bridges appears, the wheels are located directly on the sides of the arches. This causes the tires to rub against the fender. Therefore, an indispensable stage of tuning after installing the wheels is the UAZ Loaf body lift.
Strange as it may seem, the frame of the UAZ Loaf is attached to the body with ten furniture bolts, six of which are located in the passenger area, two behind the front wheel arches, and two more at the feet of the driver and passenger. From below, the bolts are secured with second nuts.
Before proceeding with the dismantling of the bolts, it is necessary to disconnect the battery, disconnect the mass from the engine - behind the hood compartment and raise the car on a lift.
- Disconnect the wires from the starter;
- Disconnect the radiator mounts from below or from above;
- We unfasten the drive rods of the transmission lever and the brake booster rods;
- Drain all the coolant and remove the hoses that are connected to the UAZ Loaf stoves;
- Disconnect the brake pedal link to the vacuum booster;
- Disconnect the tube leading to the tank control valve.
The last point may not seem so important, but failure to comply with it can lead to deflection of the plate under the mount, as a result of which it will have to be leveled.
When lifting the UAZ Loaf with your own hands, be careful and careful, since the fasteners on such a car are usually rusty and outdated. If the bolt turns in the body, it cannot be held. This creates additional difficulties in welding a nut or bolt to it.
To do everything right, you need to hold one nut with a wrench, while unscrewing the lock nut with the head, and after that the main nut.
Next, you should lower the car on the wheels, since no more work will be required under it. We also disconnect the steering column and unfasten the boot on the floor. And you can start lifting the body over the frame. The ascent must begin from the back of the Loaf. The height of the lift should eventually be about 10 centimeters.
It would be nice to insure by placing a wide wooden beam between the frame and the body.
We unscrew the standard bolts and increase the holes for them up to 12 mm by drilling. Next, you need to do some work with spacers. An inexpensive and suitable option as spacers are ordinary hockey pucks. The next steps will be to insert the spacers, bolts and tighten the nuts gradually, starting from the rear of the body, continuing in the middle and ending at the front.
As a result, the body will rise by 6.5 centimeters. It remains only to fix everything and you can put big wheels.
Pros and cons of a suspension lift
Now consider the next way to carry out the UAZ Loaf lift - suspension lift. As already mentioned, this method has both pros and cons. There are two main advantages of the suspension lift on the UAZ:
- improvement in the patency of the Loaf, ensured by the fact that the wheels remain in place, and the other part rises;
- the ability to install large wheels that, before the suspension lift, did not fit in the UAZ arches.
Well, the main disadvantage of this method is the inevitable increase in the angles of the cardan crosses. In this case, the cardans are included in the work for wear.
There are several options for a suspension lift. Let's consider some of them.
Installing longer shackles
The simplest and most affordable option is to install longer spring shackles. When carrying out a suspension lift in a similar way, you should not get carried away with it so as not to install too long. Too long leaf springs can adversely affect suspension performance and affect handling. To avoid problems in handling, it is recommended to tighten the earrings with a tie in the center.
Bridge-spring spacer
Without violating the design of the springs, it is possible to slightly raise the suspension of the Loaf by installing a spacer between the bridge and the spring. At the same time, you don’t have to wait for a large elevator, it is also recommended not to get involved in the process here.
Of course, when installing such a spacer, it is necessary to decide on its fixation in the installation place, and also to calculate that the length of the spring ladders is sufficient. It is also possible to restore old springs, or purchase new ones. There are also special items for sale for such tuning, but they are usually very expensive.
Springing springs is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. This process is useful not only for the sake of a suspension lift, but also in order to make the stiff UAZ suspension soft enough. However, despite the fact that there is an improvement in the quality of the suspension from this method, they are very insignificant.
If you decide to give it a try, you'll first need to cut, grind, or buy spacers, rubber, conveyor belt, and metal. And most importantly, with the UAZ suspension lift, longer-stroke shock absorbers will be required, since the rebound for the former ones will begin earlier.
In conclusion, I would like to note that the main thing is to know the measure in everything. When you take up tuning the UAZ 452 with your own hands, remember your safety as well. After all, you will not have a guarantee with your own performance of the Loaf lift.
Subtleties when starting the UAZ 469 engine
Starting a cold engine at positive temperature
Starting the engine at a positive temperature has its own characteristics. First you need to set the gear lever to neutral, pull out the entire carburetor choke control knob about halfway and immediately after that, turn off the clutch and turn on the ignition. In this case, the starter must be kept on until the engine itself is started. But don't hold it like that for more than five seconds. The intervals between switching on the starter must be at least 10 seconds.
After the engine has started, you must immediately release the ignition switch key. After that, push the choke control knob down to the position that will provide the lowest engine speed. Now warm up the engine and gradually lower the control knob of this air damper until it stops. It is worth noting that the temperature of the coolant of the engine you have already warmed up should be at least 60 degrees.
Let us immediately pay attention to a very important subtlety with such heating. In no case, when operating the UAZ 469, for accelerated warming up, drive the car at a high engine speed
Starting a cold engine at temperatures up to minus 15 degrees
In this case, first you will need to turn off the oil cooler. After that, close the blinds of this radiator and install a special insulating cover for the radiator lining.
Next, you will need to turn the crankshaft of the engine with the handle. Turn it about four turns. After you need to pull the carburetor choke control knob to the maximum. Next, you need to perform the same steps as when starting the engine at a positive temperature.
Starting a cold engine at temperatures below minus 15 degrees
Let us immediately draw your attention to the fact that you need to start a cold engine only after it has been preheated with a preheater. But if suddenly at the time of launch you do not have a pre-heater, then you can simply pour hot water through the cooling system
If you are preheating with hot water, then it must be poured into the radiator. Remember to drain the water as it cools from the cooling system. This can be done through a special drain valve. Just remember that after the system needs to be filled with hot water again. Thus, warm up the entire system until the engine crankshaft begins to rotate. Rotation should be light enough with good compression in the cylinders.
It is also recommended to warm up the inlet pipeline with hot water, while water must be poured onto it carefully, in a thin stream, so that the heat can be transferred to the pipeline. After that, you need to turn the fan by hand in order to eliminate possible freezing of the pump impeller in the cooling system. Further, everything must be done according to the same principle as described in the previous section about starting the engine at temperatures up to minus 15 degrees.
Starting a hot UAZ 469 engine
Here, too, there are a couple of subtleties that you should always remember. When starting a hot engine, do not cover the carburetor choke. It is also not advisable to press the throttle pedal hard, as this can lead to an over-rich fuel mixture and will not give you the opportunity to start the engine.
But if, nevertheless, the combustible mixture turned out to be over-enriched, then you need to blow all the cylinders with air. To do this, gently press the throttle pedal of the carburetor to the maximum. After very quickly turn the starter crankshaft in the engine a couple of turns.
Platform for conveyor models
The famous Loaf, thanks to its all-metal body, the 452 model served as a platform for creating a whole line of vehicles:
- UAZ 2206 - a minibus designed for 11 people;
- UAZ 3962 - a car for the ambulance service;
- UAZ 396255 - civil modification of an ambulance for the needs of rural areas;
- UAZ 39099 - promoted under the name "Farmer". Designed for 6 passengers and 450 kg of cargo;
- UAZ 3741 - a van for transporting 2 passengers and 850 kg of cargo;
- UAZ 3303 - a flatbed car with an open body;
- UAZ 3904 is a cargo-passenger version that combines the convenience of an all-metal body for passengers and an open body for cargo.
Features of the modification with multifunctional control
Variations with the car body did not affect its technical equipment too much. But when the changes affected the governing bodies, they underwent modernization:
- Interior wiring for UAZ;
- Steering column for turning and outdoor lighting;
- The control unit for the operation of electric wipers on the instrument panel.
Reason for modernization
On cars of the UAZ family, the windshield wiper control unit was located on the instrument panel. And since this did not meet the safety requirements, then on all subsequent modifications:
- it was replaced with a more modern multifunctional unit located directly on the steering wheel;
- began to install a new instrument panel.
Self-modernization
Cars of new releases already have a multifunctional control unit in the database. But the owners of early releases can convert the car to modern safety requirements with their own hands.
This will require:
- original wiring
UAZ 2206 - as the most suitable for self-rework; - Factory scheme-instruction
, allowing you to correctly connect the steering column switches to the standard circuit; - Desire for quality installation
.
The work algorithm will be as follows:
- Disconnect the battery;
- We remove the control unit from the instrument panel;
- We disconnect the wires, referring to their compliance with the factory diagram in fig. 1;
- Remove the stock switches from the steering wheel column.
For alteration, you will need to purchase several new parts:
- A block of multifunctional paddle switches from the UAZ 390995 model;
- Relay for the wiper circuit (best suited from the VAZ model, as well as wiring 2112 connecting the relay and the switch block);
- Contact pads in the amount of 3 pieces (one 8-pin for the side of the steering column switches and two 6-pin for the relay and the standard adapter).
Let's start the installation:
- We replace the standard connector with a new one;
- We cut the wire 4x4 (indicated in Fig. 2 with a red cross);
Motorists-improved modernization scheme
Motorists improved the rework scheme proposed by the manufacturer by making some changes to it (in Fig. 3):
- A variable resistor R = 10K was introduced into the circuit, due to which the pause in the intermittent operation of the wipers can be smoothly changed from 4 s to 15 s;
- Connect the resistor in such a way that the countdown of the operating mode starts from the moment the brush motor stops.
Conclusions: cars of the UAZ family are not only unitary multi-purpose SUVs, but also easy-to-maintain vehicles. Almost any car owner, armed with knowledge and color wiring diagrams, is able not only to restore a failed node, but also to carry out a useful modernization of the car and its individual elements.
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One of the most common problems of domestic cars is the breakdown of any electrical appliances, the wiring diagram will help you figure this out. The only solution to this problem will be to check the condition of the fuses. The topic of today's article will be the electrical circuit of the UAZ Loaf car on an injector-type engine.
So, this article provides answers to such fairly common questions:
- What is the wiring diagram on a UAZ Loaf of an engine type injector?
- How is the electrical circuit of a UAZ Loaf car arranged?
- Where are the fuses located on a UAZ Loaf car of an injector-type engine?
- Assembly block repair.
Meet UAZ 452
The car was a cargo-passenger version of a cross-country vehicle with a 4 × 4 wheel formula. He mastered the production of the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant model back in 1965.
- As a traffic police car;
- As a fire engine;
- ambulance;
- grocery store;
Electronic components
For reference: The instruction provided for a regular check of contacts. When oxidized, they should have been cleaned with sandpaper.
power unit
- Protected from dust and dirt;
The previously used engine from Pobeda was replaced with a more modern engine from the 21st Volga. This was facilitated by the launch of a production line at the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant in 1964.
A striking example of comprehensive testing "Pills"
What is included in the electrical circuit
Electronic components
Engine compartment
AUZ car engine compartment
Passive safety
Specifications UAZ 469
Before proceeding to the intricacies of operating a car, it would be nice to know about its technical characteristics.
The SUV is equipped with a 4-cylinder UMZ-451MI carburetor engine with a volume of 2.5 liters. Such a UAZ 469 engine is aggregated with a 4-speed manual gearbox (with synchronizers in 3rd and 4th gears). Engine power reaches 75 horsepower at a torque of 2200 - 2500 rpm.
A-72 or A-76 gasoline can be used as fuel. The car has two fuel tanks of 39 liters each, and fuel consumption at a speed of 90 km / h is 16 liters per 100 km. The maximum speed at full weight is 100 km / h.
Since the engine is the heart of any car, then it would be more logical to consider the intricacies of starting such a unit under various weather conditions, especially if your UAZ 469 is new.
Gearbox removal process
Repair of a checkpoint on a UAZ 452 is quite possible to do it yourself. This requires:
- a set of wrenches, including the wrenches needed to tighten the nuts;
- screwdrivers;
- hammer;
- chisel;
- pliers.
Dismantling algorithm.
The car must be on level ground. It is necessary to drain the oil from the two boxes by unscrewing the drain plugs. Next, the front seats, hatch halves, clutch release fork, transverse frame, gear levers from the boxes are removed.
The speedometer shaft, suspension mounts in the chassis, brake levers are subject to removal. As a result, an exit to the clutch housing opens. A box is fixed on it with fastening nuts, which must be unscrewed, then the UAZ gearbox is carefully extended along with the transfer gearbox until the splined shaft exits the flywheel. The driver will need an assistant to remove the box.
As soon as the disassembly into individual component parts has taken place, the box must be washed in kerosene and dried. All component parts are checked for integrity. First of all, this concerns the crankcase, shafts. If the threads on the shafts are damaged, they must be replaced. It seems dangerous to operate the machine if the gears are chipped.
Thus, the timely repair of the UAZ "loaf" checkpoint helps to extend the life of the box.
Meet UAZ 452
The car was a cargo-passenger version of a cross-country vehicle with a 4 × 4 wheel formula.
He mastered the production of the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant model back in 1965.
You can evaluate its capabilities by watching the following video:
UAZ 452 is capable of carrying cargo weighing up to 700 kg in the back. In addition, it can tow a trailer weighing 850 kg. The vehicle has become very popular not only in Russian off-road conditions, but has also been successfully used in large cities in various capacities (pictured in the article).
In particular:
- As a traffic police car;
- As a fire engine;
- ambulance;
- grocery store;
- Public utility vehicle, etc.
Electronic components
Wiring UAZ 452 was a simple single-wire circuit.
Structurally, she had the following solutions:
- The role of the second wire was played by a metal body and units and assemblies attached to it;
- All electronic components and actuators had a "-" displayed on the case. The price of such a decision justified the imperfection of the scheme.
power unit
The engine compartment is located directly in the passenger compartment, as this is due to its design.
Access to components and assemblies is also carried out from the passenger compartment, by removing the cover, which:
- Provided protection for the driver and passengers from the penetration of exhaust gases;
- Protected from dust and dirt;
- It served as an additional heating element (passive - from heating).
The previously used engine from Pobeda was replaced with a more modern engine from the 21st Volga. This was facilitated by the launch of a production line at the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant in 1964.
Passive vehicle safety
The design of the "Baton" with a cabover layout also initially raised a number of questions regarding safety. However, a series of crash tests conducted back in 1971 at the Dmitrovsky training ground proved that in most emergency situations, the driver and passengers of the UAZ 452 have a chance to avoid injury.
What is included in the electrical circuit
What features does automotive electrics have on old cars manufactured by the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant?
Electronic components
The UAZ 452 wiring diagram itself is quite simple - single-wire.
By its design, the wiring diagram of UAZ390995 or another model is characterized by the following solutions:
- The body of the vehicle is used as the mass.
- Any electrical equipment of the old-style circuit on the UAZ 409 or another model, as well as actuators, are equipped with a negative terminal that is connected to the car body. According to experts, in general, this scheme is imperfect.
According to the operating instructions for electrical equipment, the driver must from time to time diagnose the condition of the integrity of the contacts. We are also talking about their oxidation. If the driver notices the presence of oxidation on the terminals, he must process them using fine-grained sandpaper.
Engine compartment
In this case, the engine compartment is located directly in the passenger compartment in accordance with the design of the machine.
Access to the electrical circuit and other mechanisms and assemblies is made precisely from the passenger compartment, as a result of dismantling the cover, which:
- Designed to protect the motorist and passenger from exhaust gases entering the passenger compartment.
- Allows you to protect the interior of the car from the penetration of dirt and dust.
- Performs the function of an additional heating device, in particular in a passive way, as a result of heating.
Previously, the UAZ 396255 and other models with a carburetor used an engine from the legendary Pobeda, which was later replaced by a more advanced and modern unit. In particular, the engine is from the Volga. This decision at one time, back in 1964, was facilitated by the serial launch of the production line at the ZMZ enterprise. Despite the fact that many domestic motorists claim that the UAZ 390994 scheme, the injector in the engine compartment is located in an inconvenient place due to the lack of a hood, this is not so. Dozens of years of operation have proven that the absence of a hood in no way affects the diagnosis and maintenance of a car.
Passive safety
The very design of the domestic Loaf with the absence of a hood at first raised many questions in terms of the safety of the driver and passengers. As a result of several dozen crash tests that were carried out back in the early 70s of the last century, it was found that the car is no less safe when compared with other domestic cars. As the results showed, in the event of an accident, both the driver and the passengers of the car have a good chance of avoiding injuries in an accident.
Subtleties of maintenance UAZ 469
During the operation of each car, its technical condition deteriorates, the UAZ 469 car is also no exception. In order to increase the service life of the machine and prevent malfunctions in time, it is necessary to know the subtleties of its maintenance, namely the subtleties of maintenance of all available mechanisms.
Let's look at some of the most important points:
First of all, pay attention to the frequency of oil changes. It is recommended to do this every 5000 kilometers.
At the same time, during the operation of an SUV, a decrease in oil by 10-12 mm relative to the lower edge of the filler hole is allowed.
It is also necessary to periodically carry out maintenance of the gas distribution mechanism, which consists in cleaning the valves from carbon deposits and grinding them.
The oil filter is changed by unscrewing it from the cylinder block counterclockwise. Before installing a new oil filter, its O-ring must be lubricated with engine oil. The new filter is wrapped to a degree that excludes oil leakage.
The crank mechanism of the car needs to tighten the cylinder nuts every 1000 km. run.
The engine cooling system must be filled with soft fresh water with a low salt content and during operation periodically remove scale and debris from the system, as well as adjust the tension of the fan belt.
The clutch mechanism also needs maintenance. In addition to the fact that it is necessary to lubricate the clutch release bearing located on the right side of the crankcase in a timely manner, it is also necessary to clean the lower part of the crankcase after driving on dirty roads.
As for the maintenance of the gearbox, it all comes down to the periodic lubrication of the part, this should also not be forgotten.
A few more subtleties of operation of the UAZ 469
Of course, even, probably, the manufacturer himself cannot know all the subtleties of the car, so we will try to tell you everything to the maximum. So, a few more subtleties:
- Reverse in the gearbox and downshift in the transfer case must be engaged only after the vehicle has come to a complete stop.
- Always disengage the clutch on steep slopes to avoid breaking the clutch disc.
- Never exceed the speed limit (more than 60 km/h) with the front axle on, and while driving on dry and hard roads, it can be turned off altogether.
- Also, in no case do not allow the inclusion of the front axle with the front wheels off.
- It is necessary to independently periodically check the external threaded fasteners and tightening during the operation of the vehicle.
- Be attentive to the chassis of the car and avoid shock loads on it.
- When driving on particularly dusty roads, to create air pressure in the cabin and reduce dust penetration, open the hatch in the middle part of the front end and close the swing doors.
Causes of breakdowns
As a rule, the need to replace the main components at the gearbox arises with their natural wear and tear.
Causes of gearbox breakdowns
The main reason for oil leakage from the gearbox is the presence of an increased level of fuel in the system. For a gearbox on a UAZ, high-quality oil should be used. If the liquid does not have the proper quality, then characteristic noises from the side of the box may occur due to this. When the synchronizer or its parts are worn, it is always difficult to change gears
Pay attention to the details of the switching mechanism. When the gear teeth are deformed, self-disengagement of gears is often noted.
Finally
Many of us remember the legendary car.
Therefore, his appearance at the show dedicated to the Olympic Games was perceived as part of our glorious history of the development of the domestic auto industry.
Loaf was awarded participation in the 2014 Olympics
Rice. 246. Scheme of electrical equipment of cars UAZ-3962 and UAZ-2206:
1-front lamp; 2-headlight; 3-turning headlight; 4-lantern special sign; 5-repeater of direction indicators; 6 washer motor; 7-wiper motor; 8-wiper and washer switch; 9-beep; 10-cabin ceiling switch; 11-cabin cover; 12-switch of a sound signal; 13-speedometer; 14-signal high beam headlights; 15 voltmeter; 16-oil pressure indicator; 17-signal lamp of emergency oil pressure; 18-coolant temperature gauge in the cylinder block; 19-signal lamp for emergency overheating of the coolant in the radiator; 20-pointer of fuel level in the tank; 21-thermal fuse; 22-foot light switch; 23-alarm switch; 24-pin socket; 25-block of fuses; 26-signal lamp for turning on the parking brake; 27-signal lamp of an emergency condition of a hydraulic drive of brakes; 28-signal lamp of direction indicators; 29-switch of direction indicators; 30-interrupter of direction indicators; 31-ignition switch; 32-switch of the signal lamp for turning on the parking brake; 33-switch of the signal lamp of the emergency condition of the hydraulic drive of the brakes; 34-sensor signal lamp emergency overheating of the coolant in the radiator; 35-sensor signal lamp emergency oil pressure; 36-sensor oil pressure indicator; 37-sensor of the coolant temperature indicator in the cylinder block; 38-central light switch; 39 generator; 40 voltage regulator; 41-reversing light switch; 42-switch of the fan motor in the cab; 43-switch of the electric motor of the heater fan in the cab; 44-switch of the electric motor of the heater fan in the cabin; 45-brake signal switch; 46 spark plug; 47-sensor-distributor; 48 additional resistance; 49-ignition coil; 50 starter; 51-additional starter relay; 52-battery; 53-switch "mass"; 54-fan motor in the cab; 55-heater fan electric motor in the cab; 56-heater fan motor in the cabin; 57-plafonds in the cabin; 58-sensor fuel gauge in the tank; 59-cigarette lighter; 60-emergency vibrator; 61 transistor switch; 62-electronic carburetor control unit; 63-solenoid valve; 64-microswitch; 65-fog light switch with built-in turn-on signal lamp; 66-switches of ceiling lamps in the cabin; 67-rear light; 68 - license plate light; 69-reversing lamp; 70-pin trailer socket; 71-fog lamp; 72-valve unbalance float chamber carburetor
a-generator connection diagram with built-in integrated voltage regulator
Wire color code: B-white; G-blue; Y-yellow; 3-green; K-red; Kch-brown; O-orange; R-pink; C-gray; f-violet; H-black
1. Pos. 42 and 54 are installed on tropical vehicles. 2. Pos. 62, 63, 64 with a K126-GU carburetor are not installed. 3. Pos. 3, 4, 70 are installed only on the UAZ-3962 car
To ensure the operability of all electrical devices on any car, an electrical circuit is used. In this article we will talk about the legendary domestic cars - UAZ. What is the electrical circuit of the UAZ Loaf car, what are its features - read about it below.
