The old UAZ is an eternal car, not least because it is very, very difficult to sell it. Still, a very much an amateur car. And even then to say - even by selling it, you can’t return the spent mental strength. Therefore, it is worth trying to make the UAZ live longer, and pass from generation, from father to son, like a family curse ...
From this point of view, it is worth considering the UAZ assembly process - fortunately, the engine has just been changed and the car is already, in principle, on the go. And the main principle here is this:
“Remember! The bolt you tightened, you also unscrew it!
In general, the correct assembly of the machine is much more dirty than its disassembly. Dismantling that - well, rust, well, the soil was packed everywhere, well, oil oozed here and there (at all joints) ... But the assembly is a thorough matter. All fasteners unscrewed during disassembly - in kerosene. Yes, just like that, right in the trough with kerosene - plop!
If you are more or less professional in assembly and disassembly, I highly recommend an ultrasonic bath. On the Chinese counterparts of eBay, you can buy them for 800 rubles each. You pour kerosene into such, put the bolts - and take them out clean, like new ones. But if this is an infrequent case, then you can tinker with a brush, it's okay. Put the bolts washed in kerosene on a rag, let the kerosene drain and soak, and start playing Cinderella:
We disassemble the fasteners into special cassettes (I have a whole stack of them), at the same time we sort them into good and spoiled ones. The latter is mercilessly sent to the trash - it is more expensive to use it. A broken thread in the right place can create so much work for the grinder and welding that it’s better not to ...
Of course, ideally, it is better to change all the fasteners for a gold-plated titanium new one, but every time it is too expensive to do this. Therefore, I only change the damaged one, and you do whatever you want.
Another good principle:
“Disassembled - grease with anticorrosive!”
A very convenient case - the muzzle has already been removed, it remains to throw off the wings, since this is a simple matter. (Hint - a screwdriver with a nozzle for bolts ( not advertising) greatly reduces the time for unscrewing many identical nuts. Vzhiiiiik - and you're done. It’s a pity you can’t get them everywhere ...)
Why is this needed? And then, most likely, when you remove the wings, you will see something like this:
UAZ has no innate anti-corrosion protection, so taking care of its safety is our task. In general, he even suits the lack of wings, don't you think? – Some classic brutality appears:
The best anticorrosive of all times and peoples, I personally consider a mixture of cannon fat with nigrol ( not advertising):
Take a jar of pushsalo (150 rubles) and a liter of nigrol (50 rubles), heat pushsalo on the stove to a liquid state, pour nigrol into it, stir it. The more nigrol, the thinner the anticorrosive. For cavities you need liquid, for external elements - thicker, so adjust yourself.
This is truly a hellish black mixture - it impregnates everything, including loose rust, flows into all cracks, never dries out and is not completely removed by anything.
And, yes, she gets dirty. No, it's not, she DIRTY! Be prepared for the fact that everything will be in greasy black spots - body, interior, tools, clothes, garage and you yourself - up to your ears. After several trips on dusty roads, it will at least stop flowing from the frame - a protective layer is formed - but until then, everything will be in the anticorrosive.
In those hard-to-reach places where pushsalo cannot be filled in any way, I spray with aerosol Movil ( not advertising):
So, we cleaned the rust, took a brush in our hands - and we apply our anticorrosive wherever we can:
Don't forget the wings too.
Actually, at the same time, it is worth replacing the sealant, which is laid in the joints, but I didn’t have it, and I installed the old one. Do not follow my example, children!
Okay, probably not the last time I shoot ...
I didn’t get to the cavities this time, I left it on vacation, but, in short, the technology is as follows:
Anticorrosive liquid diluted with nigrol is poured into specially drilled holes at the end of the box (you can use a transmission syringe, for example). The holes are then plugged with plastic plugs (there are such special plugs). Then the machine is placed at an angle so that the filled one flows to the other end of the box. We temporarily plug the drainage holes with plasticine so that they do not leak out ahead of time. It's good to do this in the sun, but you can also heat the box with a heat gun, especially when it comes to frame cavities.
After that, you can be calm about the future of our UAZ - it will not only be inherited by children, but also by grandchildren ..
I have been practicing this graphite-oil therapy for many years, and I have been grateful to myself for it many times - especially when disassembling the suspension after several years of operation. Everything literally unscrews like clockwork.
Did everyone miss? Can be collected. At the next disassembly, repeat the procedure if necessary.
And now, wash off. Personally, I use the Cleaner ( also, alas, not advertising) - he removes the hellish mixture of nigrol with pushsal perfectly, and does not irritate the skin, though it stinks disgustingly ...
This post, unfortunately, is not paid for by manufacturers of automotive chemicals and power tools. Hey, manufacturers, why are you lost? I take it in kind! 🙂
A modern factory anticorrosive agent quite effectively protects the body from corrosion. But nothing lasts forever. To keep the iron in good condition, the protection needs to be updated. In addition, competent processing will help to slow down the corrosion process that has already begun for a long time.
Underground
In addition to the visible wear of the lower part of the body from the constant "sandblasting" and road reagents, corrosion of the internal cavities is inevitable. Welded seams and rolled joints in the door panels and trunk lid are also at particular risk. The trouble with such zones is inferior priming and staining even in the factory.
The corrosion process is noticeably accelerated in hidden cavities. Due to poor ventilation, moisture and dirt accumulate there mixed with road reagents, forming an electrolyte - a corrosion catalyst. And if its external manifestations are visible on the welded points of the bottom, on the welds and in the places where the panels overlap, then everything inside is much worse.
| The drying time of the bottom after washing depends on the equipment available in a particular service. For example, two heat guns with a power of 24 kW, providing a flow of hot air with an intensity of 2500–3000 l / min, cope with the task in about half an hour. At the same time, they are sequentially moved under the car in order to fully dry the hidden cavities. The drying time of the bottom after washing depends on the equipment available in a particular service. For example, two heat guns with a power of 24 kW, providing a flow of hot air with an intensity of 2500–3000 l / min, cope with the task in about half an hour. At the same time, they are sequentially moved under the car in order to fully dry the hidden cavities. |
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Before application, the bottom and hidden cavities of a middle-aged car are washed and dried. This procedure itself significantly delays the onset of serious corrosion, since it rids the surfaces of aggressive electrolyte.
To protect the body, two main methods of anti-corrosion treatment are used.
Canadian approach
In Canada, a humid cold climate prevails, which favors the appearance and development of corrosion. Therefore, it is Canada that is considered the legislator of the so-called ML-method of body protection, although it was invented in Scandinavia.
The method involves pouring ML-oils (analogues of the usual Movil and the popular Rast Stop product) into the hidden cavities of the entire body through existing factory technological holes and drains. Penetrating compounds impregnate welds well and cover the inner surfaces with a film that reliably insulates from contact with air. The same materials cover the bottom from the outside.
The ML method is not demanding on the quality of body preparation and forgives a lot of mistakes when applying the composition. In the same Canada, the bottom is not fully washed, but only large pieces of dirt are knocked down. The ML oils used have excellent penetrating power and well impregnate surfaces and seams even under such conditions.
They can also be applied over any rust - corrosion inhibitors (retarders of a chemical reaction) are included in the composition. But to achieve the maximum effect, it is better to rinse the bottom and its hidden cavities completely.
The disadvantage of ML oils is their low mechanical strength. In hidden cavities, they last for years, and on open surfaces they are quickly erased.
Chemical manufacturers are also developing schemes for processing machines of specific models. They indicate the factory technological holes and additional ones that are proposed to be drilled in order to fully fill all the hidden cavities. In fact, servicemen rarely make holes in the body - if only because the owners are often against it. In most cases, additional holes are not so necessary for full processing. By the way, these diagrams are useful for studying the structure of a particular body, especially when a rare model arrives for processing.
SWEDISH ANSWERThe abbreviation ML stands for anti-corrosion compounds for hidden cavities of the car body, as well as the processing method. Behind these letters are two authors: the Swedish Automobile Association Motormannen and the ideologist of the direction Sven Laurin. At the end of the 50s of the last century, one of the specialized companies offered car owners a new service - complete bodywork using the ML method. Although for the first time this technology was tested 20 years earlier. The Swedish ancestry is explained by the difficult local climate, which accelerates the corrosion of iron. On a global scale, power engineers faced this problem when high-voltage masts began to be actively built in the country. Their tubular structures were rotting from within at a terrifying rate. It was then that Laurin proposed his own method - through existing or drilled holes, pour anti-corrosion oils into hidden cavities. Movil, the Soviet analogue of the Swedish ML oils, received a consonant name by accident. This composition was developed much later by scientists from Moscow and Vilnius, the Russian and Lithuanian capitals, and gave the remedy a name. In those days, it was fashionable to invent funny abbreviations and abbreviations. |
old light
The second approach is European, more serious. In addition to the cavity treatment with ML oils, hard (bituminous) protective compounds are applied to the exposed underbody panels and wheel arches. This method is more demanding on the quality of preparatory work. It is important to fully wash the open bottom panels, otherwise the bituminous compounds will quickly peel off.
The main advantage of bituminous coatings is high mechanical strength. Their various types, for example, the composition for liquid fender liner or for bottom panels, are able to protect the metal from external influences for a long time.
These covers are optional. They are applied in several layers, and films of this thickness are sufficient to reduce the vibration level of the panels. On some machines, the effect is more noticeable, on others - less. An important role is played by the subjective perception of the driver and the design features of the car.Bituminous coatings can be applied to rust, but with reservations. If the corrosion is superficial, just in case, the affected area is impregnated with ML-oil and after that a solid composition is applied. With deeper layered rust, impregnation with an ML compound may not help. Moreover, the development of corrosion cannot be controlled, because bituminous coatings, unlike ML oils, are opaque. Therefore, the master in each case evaluates the degree of rust damage and the possibility of applying a bituminous coating on top of it.
For the treatment of the bottom with bituminous composition, the same restrictions apply as with ML oils. Bitumen, like ML oils, can be removed with solvents when it enters the outlet, but much more time and effort will have to be spent.
DANGEROUS ECONOMYThere are a huge number of companies on the market offering their anticorrosive compositions. All products are of comparable quality, but well-known players should be preferred, for example: Tectyl, Noxudol, Dinitrol, Waxoyl. Branded chemistry is not the cheapest, but it has been repeatedly tested. It is with her that specialized services work, which have seen the results of using products from dubious manufacturers. Poor-quality products do not protect, but kill the body. For example, the left ML oils, instead of deeply impregnating surfaces and seams, creating a protective layer, act the other way around. They have very low fluidity, clog drains, and also form a thick membrane film, under which corrosion only accelerates. And cheap bituminous compounds have an extremely low service life. Quickly drying out and cracking, they to some extent protect the body from mechanical stress, but not from corrosion. |
Election campaign
With year-round operation of the car in a large city, where roads are actively watered in winter, the first external signs of internal corrosion appear after about five years or 100,000 km of run. The most economical way to significantly extend the life of the body is to wash the bottom and its hidden cavities every 50,000–70,000 km. In Moscow, this service costs 2000-3000 rubles.
Ideally, it is worth supplementing the first wash of the bottom with the treatment of its hidden cavities. Moreover, at the next visit, for example, after 50,000 km, it is no longer necessary to flush the internal cavities and refill them with ML-oil - it “lives” there for a very long time. Such complex processing will save a decent amount. For example, for 8000-9000 rubles they will fully wash the bottom, treat hidden cavities and apply ML oils to open panels.
This option is suitable for normal urban use. On open surfaces under such conditions, ML oils can withstand 20,000–30,000 km of run. And if the bottom is closed with plastic shields, the composition will last much longer. A combined approach is also possible. Unprotected and especially prone to "sandblasting" areas are covered with a bitumen composition. An owner who wants a long life for his car can "douse" it with ML oils every year over old coatings.
Processing with bituminous materials makes sense when operating in difficult conditions and very high annual mileage. This option is suitable for off-road enthusiasts and owners of commercial vehicles, as well as amateur racers. It is suitable for both used and new cars. The bitumen coating of the bottom, if not actively killed, lasts for five to seven years. That is, it is quite enough for the average period of owning a car. After the bituminous coating has worn out, it is partially cleaned off and a fresh layer is applied. A package of services, including washing, treatment of hidden cavities with ML oils and application of a bituminous coating on the bottom, is estimated at about 15,000 rubles.
The cost of body protection is comparable to the cost of car maintenance - complex treatment with ML-oils and treatment with bituminous compounds cost the same as the first and second maintenance, respectively. Usually it is enough to spend money on anticorrosive treatment only once or twice - these investments are repaid when the car is sold.
ONE BLOODBituminous materials for the protection of bottom panels and fender liner have a single base, but differ from each other, let's say, in additive packages. They are added to increase the mechanical strength of the coating in the zone of active external influence - for example, on the wheel arches. To do this, the base base includes a reinforcing filler - rubber crumb. Accordingly, such a composition will be more expensive. Such a coating can be applied to other parts of the body. Let's say, on the rapids, subject to strong "sandblasting" from the wheels. Manufacturers supply formulations for liquid fender liners in various containers and different consistency, but with the same characteristics. Thanks to this, services can use the most convenient equipment for working with them. Thick formulations are applied with a brush in several layers, and liquid formulations are applied with a spray gun or a euro gun. More viscous material can be diluted with a solvent to use any available equipment. |
We thank Antikor.rf for their help in preparing the material.
Almost any car owner, having closed the car and having moved a certain distance, will definitely turn around to once again admire his car and assess its condition.
The car is constantly exposed to the aggressive action of the environment. The main enemy is moisture - the cause of rust.
To protect against it, machine parts must be treated with an anti-corrosion coating. The car care market offers many options. One of the most popular is the treatment of a car with cannon fat.
Requirements for anti-corrosion coating
The correct anticorrosive should have the following properties:
- Form an elastic film on the metal surface.
- Possess a high degree of adhesion - adhesion of various surfaces in solid or liquid form.
- Impregnate not only smooth surfaces, but also penetrate into cracks and depressions.
- Displace accumulated moisture.
- Wet the surface well.
- Should not dry out.
- Do not form cracks where water can penetrate.
- Do not require special surface preparation.
- To be resistant to the mechanical impact of small particles rising from the road surface - gravel, sand, pebbles.
- Be resistant to temperature changes and maintain its characteristics at any time of the year.
The use of cannon fat satisfies these requirements and creates a reliable isolation from the environment. The composition of cannon fat is petroleum oil, which has been thickened with petrolatum and ceresin. To ensure operational properties, an anti-corrosion additive is added.
The coating got its name due to the fact that at first it was used to preserve artillery weapons, including cannons.
The benefits of cannon fat
The main features of the substance:
- high degree of elasticity;
- the ability to stay on the surface without rolling off it during application and further operation;
- lack of interaction with water, which allows you to successfully use it on the bottom of the car;
- temperature range of use – from minus 50° to plus 50°C;
- protection against corrosion under the action of sea water and salt fog;
- scope - black and non-ferrous metal surfaces.
Visually, it is a homogeneous ointment-like mass in color from yellow to light brown. Sold in metal cans or buckets of various capacities. Packaging starts from 1 kg.
The price of this type of anti-corrosion coating is very democratic. For comparison, the table shows the cost depending on the volume and manufacturer.
Advice! You can save on purchases by purchasing goods in stores that provide their services via the Internet.
Preparation
Before applying the coating, you should prepare everything you need. For anti-corrosion treatment you will need:
- cannon fat in a jar or bucket;
- means for breeding;
- electric stove or building hair dryer;
- paint brush;
- syringe.
We should especially talk about the means for breeding. There are several options for diluting cannon fat to a liquid state.
For this, the following can be used:
- petrol;
- solvent;
- waste oil;
- RUST STOP type anti-corrosion agent.
Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages. The solvent will cost a little more. The properties of mining depend on which oil was originally used.
RUST STOP anti-corrosion agent is one of the substances that successfully fight metal corrosion. The manufacturer is the Canadian company A.M.T. Inc."
The advantage of RUST STOP is that it never freezes. Being in a semi-liquid state, this tool fills all the cracks and scratches on the metal surface without damaging the rubber parts. A layer of corrosion inhibitors reliably protects the surface from the appearance of.
This anti-corrosion agent does not require particularly careful preparation of the treated surface - it can also be applied over a slight layer of rust. As a result, the technology of anti-corrosion treatment is greatly simplified, and the time for the entire process is reduced. An additional bonus is that the manufacturer uses various flavors, such as cherry or strawberry.
Information! Adding a product to cannon fat gives it anti-corrosion properties and promotes better spreading. Inhibitors reduce the rate of corrosion.
Mode of application
First you need to prepare the car. It is necessary to remove all plastic parts that interfere with work. Rinse surfaces to be protected. Clean up traces of corrosion. Degrease the surface by wiping it with white spirit.
Then you should prepare cannon fat. This work consists in heating and bringing it to the consistency of thick sour cream. You can warm it up on an electric stove, stirring constantly. It is also possible to use a building hair dryer.
Two minutes after the end of heating, add a solvent to the melted lard or in a ratio of 4: 1. The solution is ready for use.
On large surfaces, the solution is applied with a paint brush. Processing the bottom of the car with cannon fat suggests that the car must be raised on jacks. It will be even more convenient to work while in the inspection hole.
At the bottom, it is reasonable to substitute a container where excess will drain or drip. Apply cannon fat to the surface with broad strokes. Each layer should be 0.3-0.4 mm thick. When in contact with a cold car, fat quickly seizes. After hardening, you can apply another one on top.
It would be a mistake to process only the outer surfaces. Be sure to carefully inspect the interior and coat the metal parts inside it. Moisture gets inside the machine through the cracks, contributing to the formation of rust there.
In addition to large surfaces, working with which is not very difficult, you will have to deal with more inaccessible places:
- pour liquid through the technological holes into the existing cavities;
- process thresholds and doorways;
This is where you will need a syringe, with which you can pump anticorrosive under pressure into the necessary cavities.
By spending more time on careful processing, the owner of the car will be able to provide himself with peace of mind for several years.
You must follow the safety rules:
- work with gloves;
- to carry out processing in the open air, if not possible - in a well-ventilated garage;
- do not leave the electric stove turned on unattended.
The time during which a stable film is formed is approximately 30 minutes.
Comparison with other species - reviews
There are a lot of forums where the properties of various anti-corrosion coatings are discussed. This topic excites almost all motorists. Questions are asked and success stories are shared.
