Quick flush of the engine before changing the oil. Engine flush oil

24.09.2019

Transmission

It would seem that there are plenty of reasons to clean the internal parts of the power unit before updating the lubricant. However, some motorists still doubt whether this is worth doing. In fact, flushing the engine when changing the oil is welcomed by many specialists and car service workers.

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The main reasons for flushing the engine

There is no single answer to the question of whether it is worth flushing the crankcase. There are many factors that influence this process. Every experienced motorist knows a huge number of examples when the engine functioned perfectly after a “dirty” replacement or showed signs of unstable operation. The problem only happens once and is best avoided.

It turns out that in some situations flushing is necessary, in others it is not. That is how it is. For example, if the maintenance history of the car is “clean”, all the required measures were taken in a timely manner, there is no need for flushing. The same can be said if the engine is constantly filled with oil of the same type and classification.

On the other hand, it is necessary to wash the crankcase in the following cases:

the viscosity of the new composition is different (synthetics changes to mineral water);
replacement is carried out after the repair of the power plant;
the brand of the lubricant composition differs;
on a car bought in a used condition (it is not known for certain which oil was filled in);
gasoline or antifreeze got inside the motor.

When not to clean

In some special cases, flushing the engine when changing the oil is prohibited. Modern expensive synthetics include various useful additives. They not only lubricate the engine elements, but also clean the engine from various contaminants. After several replacements, a useful and clean layer forms on the walls of the parts and the inside of the engine. You can do the power plant a disservice if you wash it off.

Do not use "miraculous" additives. They will only worsen the properties of the native oil, mix with it, and the residual percentage of lubricant will change its structure for the worse.

Inexperienced motorists do this. They buy these supposedly magical additives, pour them into the engine, but do not change the filter. As a result, the dirt accumulated in the cleaning element breaks down and enters the lubrication system. What this leads to, we think, is not worth talking about.

You will learn more about when flushing the engine is not needed from the video from the user Denis MECHANIK.

How often should the pan be washed

Flushing must be carried out every time after a long and hard operation of the motor system of the car. The same must be done if antifreeze gets inside the power plant. In some cases, cleaning at the change is recommended as one of the ways to decarbonize the piston rings.

Thus, if the car was operated by the same owner, the same oil was poured, there are no problems with the engine, it is possible to flush the system every 200-300 thousand kilometers of the vehicle. In other cases, and under difficult engine operating conditions, it is recommended to reduce the replacement period.

Security measures

Some modern engines are so powerful that they can compete with airplanes. However, on the other hand, they can simultaneously require ultra-delicate handling, and any wrong action will lead to breakage of parts or complete failure of the unit.

There are examples when, after using flushing, the motor stopped forever. Dismantling showed such a strong level of contamination that the deposits on the internal surfaces were as thick as an adult's finger.

A survey of the owners of these machines showed that before flushing, the engine signaled by flashing the “Check Engine” light. The emergency pressure indicator was on constantly, however, the dipstick showed a normal oil level. It was all about the degree of contamination of the motor.

Deposits may accumulate unexpectedly and in large quantities. In this case, only by mechanical hard cleaning will it be possible to cope with them. Therefore, before starting the flushing procedure, it is recommended to study the condition of the engine of your car, analyze the errors generated by the on-board computer, etc. In professional services, by the way, they do this.

The situation can be especially dangerous when the internal parts cannot cope with oil starvation. This happens in case of clogging of the oil receiver and channels. Oil does not enter the block head, although the level of the filled lubricant remains normal.

Washing methods and rules

Proper cleaning of the engine includes several stages. All of them are equally important.

Before the procedure, consult with a specialist. It will indicate the specific features of a particular model of the power plant.
Make diagnostics of all mechanisms and subsystems of the engine.
Properly drain and change the old fluid.
Properly start the engine after filling in a new lubricant composition.

There are also several processing methods. It is customary today to clean the engine with a special compound, ordinary oil, additives, etc. There are chemical, soft, full-volume and forced fluid flushes.

Washing with chemicals

For some reason, some motorists believe that flushing must be carried out using chemical compounds, although this is not so. There is simply no panacea capable of ridding a motor installation of years of deposits in just five minutes.

Chemical flushing is the use of a liquid that corrodes oil seals and seals. If the package says that the product is safe for rubber parts, then it is not aggressive enough, and there will be no effect from such cleaning.

Chemical treatment is also considered the use of "five minutes". These compositions, however, managed to get notoriety and negative reviews. Motorists complain that after their use, the piston group of the unit is damaged.

Soft wash

It implies just the use of such flushing fluids, the composition of which is less aggressive. One of the well-known manufacturers of such a composition is THK. The product being produced is called Promo Express. Suitable for flushing not only gasoline, but also diesel power units.

Soft flushing is designed to cope with minor engine contamination. If the degree of deposits is too high, the motor has not been washed for a long period of time, it is better to use other means.

Soft liquids contain solvents that dissolve contaminants. However, they do not change the viscosity of the lubricant. As a rule, it is recommended to drive no more than 200 km on soft washing. Then the liquid must be completely changed, pouring normal high-quality oil.

See the video from the author of Hi-Gear for how to use soft flush.

Full flush

The essence of the method lies in the fact that a liquid with a large number of effective additives is poured into the pan. There are compositions with a long action and "fifteen minutes". The first type of liquid is used extremely rarely today, the second is more common.

The essence of washing is similar to other cleaning methods. The liquid is mixed with the remnants of contaminants, then it all drains from the sump. It is obligatory to operate the motor in XX mode for fifteen minutes.

Flushing the engine with forced fluid circulation

The best way to flush, as it involves the use of special professional equipment. Its principle of operation is based on the use of pressure in the lubrication system, which doubles the cleaning effect.

The work is reduced to the following.

First, the oil filter is dismantled. In its place, a hose of the flushing installation is threaded.
Two other equipment tubes are mounted on the oil filler neck and the crankcase drain hole.
Washing liquid is poured into the installation.
The equipment turns on, air pressure supplies flushing fluid into the lubrication system.

The engine cannot be started with this flushing method. The liquid circulates through a filter located in the unit itself. As a result of such a run, dirt and deposits removed from the engine remain in it.

The nuances of cleaning

The expediency of carrying out this or that washing method should be clarified by the pros. Only a specialist can determine exactly how polluted the working environment of the engine is, and whether he needs a full procedure or you can get by with a soft flush, whether it is worth changing the oil or not.

Full cleaning required

Domestic motors

As a rule, domestically produced motors have less sensitive characteristics, are able to withstand heavy loads, but are low-power compared to foreign motors.

You can flush a domestic-made engine with conventional means. This is an inexpensive cleaning method, quite suitable for garage conditions.

Petrol power plants

Any gasoline, no matter how high-quality it may be, contains a certain percentage of tar-lacquer and rubber deposits. Over time, they settle on the walls of the fuel system, injector nozzles and valves.

Gasoline engines are washed by all known methods. When cleaning old deposits, the use of a special installation that supplies flushing fluid under pressure is welcome. A light degree of pollution is removed with the help of mild additives and "five minutes".

Diesel units

The diesel engine is more sensitive to flushing. It can only be cleaned with special ones designed only for such units. Do not use additives for gasoline engines!

The difference in flushing is explained by the structure of the formation of deposits. A diesel engine needs more motor lubrication in the nodes, the rubbing elements must literally "float" in the oil. Flushing fluids for gasoline ICEs are not able to provide the proper level of cleaning.

We can watch the flushing of a diesel engine with a special tool on a video from the OBK Company channel.

Which flushing fluid to choose

Today there is no shortage of products for washing the engine. On the contrary, the choice of how to flush the power unit can be complicated by too many different compounds.

Five Minute

This method is carried out using the "five minutes". This is a detergent additive that is added to old oil. It is necessary to let the motor run for several minutes, then drain the liquid along with the used lubricant.

The disadvantages of the "five minutes" include its negative effect on seals and seals. The additive is too aggressive and tends to eat through rubber surfaces. But in a short period of time, without particularly getting dirty, you can change the oil.

Flushing oil and liquid

These are products that are poured into the engine after the old grease has been completely drained. The engine should run on the flush composition for some time, always in idling mode.

The disadvantage of oil is its imperfect lubricity. The flushing fluid does not allow the engine to run above 2000 rpm. This means that when cleaning the motor with this composition, it is necessary to monitor the speed of the power plant, not to allow them to be exceeded. As a result, the pressure in the lubrication system is not sufficiently increased, and the efficiency of work is reduced.

: detergent, extreme pressure, antioxidant, etc. When using the recommended oil and changing it regularly, there should be no deposits or contamination in the engine. Wear products merge with used oil from the engine during replacement. However, in practice, everything is not quite so.

It happens that motorists use several oils of different manufacturers or types in series. As a result, various types of oils are mixed in the motor, which leads to the formation and loss.

During overheating, the oil irreversibly loses its properties, decomposing, which also leads to engine pollution. This applies to worn engines, because in them most often hot exhaust gases break through into the crankcase.

As a result of these reasons, the oil gradually begins to coke, indelible deposits form on the walls of the crankcase, cylinders and other surfaces up to the complete clogging of the oil channels, which can lead to.

With each change, part of the used oil (about 10% of the total volume) is not physically drained from the power plant and remains inside. When interacting with fresh oil, the old oil causes accelerated oxidation, which reduces the service life. As a result, fresh does not have time to work out its resource and exacerbates the situation with deposits.

This may be the condition of the engine after poor care

How to flush an engine?

The procedure for flushing with flushing oil is extremely simple. To flush the engine, you must first drain the old, used oil, then flush it. The engine starts and runs for a few minutes at idle. Washing time is indicated in the instructions. During flushing, it is forbidden to increase the speed, since flushing does not have sufficient lubricating properties. After that, everything is completely drained and fresh, working oil is poured.

There are so-called “five-minutes” - products packaged in small bottles that restore the washing properties of used oil. They are added directly to the motor before replacement and let it run for five minutes. Further, the process proceeds as with flushing oil. just before adding new oil.

Flushing liquid - "five minutes"

Five-minutes have good detergent properties, they easily remove dirt from the crankcase walls.

When working with five minutes, strict adherence to the instructions is mandatory, because this is an aggressive drug. If the instructions say that the engine should be flushed for exactly 5 or 10 minutes, you do not need to drive the engine for half an hour, the seals may not survive this. If you stay five minutes in the engine for longer than the specified period, you can damage the power plant.

As already mentioned, when draining the oil, about 10% of the volume remains in the motor, and, accordingly, the components of the flushing fluid. It is not possible to remove them completely without disassembling the engine, which means that they will have a negative effect on fresh oil.

The use of "five minutes" is allowed in rare cases with high engine contamination. In other cases, the use of full-volume flushing oil is justified.

Is flushing oil worth it? In fact, this is the same oil with a mineral or synthetic base, but with an increased set of detergent additives and is able to support the engine only during flushing. It is able to dissolve harmful deposits and remove them from the motor.

Something else useful for you:

Video: Engine flush (diesel fuel) + oil change

When to Rinse

Buying a used car.
When purchasing a car whose service history is unknown to you (carbon deposits and sludge have accumulated in the engine), it makes sense to replace it with an engine flush. Use a stepwise method: first flush the engine with flushing oil, and then fill in a simple engine oil, but which must comply with your engine according to SAE and API classifications. Make the next replacement after 1-2 thousand km.
Switching to a different type of oil.
If you decide to switch, for example, from mineral water to synthetics, then it is recommended to flush the engine, since mixing different types of oils can cause sediment and deposits that subsequently clog the oil channels.
emergency situations.
The engine is flushed if you had to mix engine oils, use an oil of unknown origin, or there is a suspicion that a fake has come across.
Transfer to another class.
When switching to a higher class oil (according to SAE or API classification), it is also necessary to flush the engine.

Flushing is not required if you are the sole owner and change the same oil regularly and on time.

What to wash?

A small list of engine washes with a standard volume of 4 liters.

ZIC FLUSH. This washing liquid has good cleaning properties. Safe for sealing parts made of polymers (oil seals). It has the ability to retain the properties of fresh oil, preventing its oxidation.
ENEOS FLUSH. Excellent cleaning properties. Able to keep deposits in suspension, preventing clogging of oil passages.
Lukoil. Good quality/price ratio. It has a serious package of additives, excellent anti-wear properties, dissolves old dirt well.
"Lakiris". Product based on base oil with detergent and antioxidant additives. Gently dissolves sludge and soot, removes dirt well.
TNK Promo Express. Popular engine flush fluid. It is used by both garage craftsmen and service stations.

The need to flush the engine from old oil and contaminants arises for various reasons: for prevention purposes, when switching from one type of oil to another, in emergency situations when oils of different types and manufacturers had to be mixed, after a significant excess of the recommended service change interval, etc. . Also, a slight overheating of the engine or its frequent operation in maximum load modes can serve as a reason for flushing.

The fact is that under conditions of strong heating and harsh operation, engine oil can lose its useful properties prematurely, as a result of which it is recommended to further clean it before the next scheduled replacement. Next, we will consider the best way to flush the engine before changing the oil, and also answer the question of how to use engine flush oil.

Read in this article

How to flush the engine when changing the oil: diesel fuel, “five-minute”, flushing or regular oil

Today, there are several practical ways to flush the motor before changing the lubricant. Each of them has both its advantages and certain disadvantages. Some drivers wash the engine with the so-called "five-minute", others use flushing oil, others fill in ordinary oil and simply reduce the interval for replacing it by up to two times.

There are also many motorists who never use flushing before changing the oil, and there are those who pour regular oil into the engine. Now let's talk about popular flushing methods in more detail.

Diesel engine flush

Let's start with how to flush the engine with diesel fuel before changing the oil. Note that this method was actively used by motorists 10-15 years ago, and drivers often practiced washing with diesel fuel on domestic models (VAZ, GAZ, ZAZ, etc.) when changing engine oil on their own.

The advantages include that such cleaning is a cheap and easy option. As for efficiency and expediency, even many owners of domestic cars have long been skeptical about such a flush, and owners of more technically complex and “capricious” foreign cars completely bypassed such a procedure. Let's figure it out.

It is well known that diesel fuel dissolves and washes various contaminants well, and also has a certain ability to lubricate. For this reason, the use of such flushing seems to be quite justified, since in theory it allows you to wash the channels of the engine lubrication system, remove dirt and deposits from the surfaces of parts.

In parallel with this, it should be borne in mind that diesel fuel:

is not a special flushing agent, as a result of which the effectiveness of this method is called into question.
partial removal of contaminants after washing the engine with diesel fuel cannot be considered sufficient to clean the engine.

Please note that even the use of special equipment does not always provide a positive effect. Given this statement, much more benefit from diesel fuel should not be expected. But it can cause harm, since diesel fuel contains a lot of impurities that additionally pollute. Also, the use of diesel fuel leads to swelling of oil seals, gaskets and seals, resulting in oil leaks.

Another disadvantage is that diesel fuel can soften, but is not able to dissolve deposits inside the engine. The result is that after the diesel fuel enters the sump and softens the deposits accumulated there, the latter clog the oil receiver filter mesh. The consequences for the engine are obvious: oil starvation, increased wear or a quick failure of the unit.

It becomes quite obvious that although diesel fuel can be used to clean the parts of a disassembled engine with high quality, it is highly discouraged to pour it into the lubrication system before changing the oil. If you are still inclined towards this method, then the whole process of washing the engine with diesel fuel is as follows.

It is necessary to prepare 5-10 liters of high-quality diesel fuel and, in some cases, about 5-7 liters of cheap engine oil (depending on the degree of contamination of the internal combustion engine). Next, you need to decide whether you will only fill the engine with diesel fuel or additionally dilute it with oil. The fact is that some drivers dilute the lubricant with diesel fuel in proportions of 50/50, since they consider such a mixture to be the best option. In parallel with this, you need to purchase at least 2 oil filters. One of them may be the simplest and most affordable, since after washing it will be replaced, that is, its further work is not planned.
The next step is to warm up the engine to operating temperature, after which the plug in the pan is unscrewed and the used oil is drained, the old oil filter can also be removed. Next, a new oil filter is installed, into which a little fresh oil is poured. We do not screw the cork in the pallet.
Now, through the oil filler neck, you can pour a couple of liters of clean diesel fuel or a mixture of oil with diesel fuel into the engine, which will flow out through the drain hole in the pan.
Then the drain plug can be tightened, and then add diesel fuel or a mixture of oil and diesel fuel to the “max” mark on the dipstick. Next, the motor is started for 10-15 seconds. During operation, you can slightly press the gas and increase the speed. An increase in speed leads to an increase in pressure in the lubrication system and better cleaning of channels and parts.
Then the engine must be turned off, and then let the power plant cool down a bit (about 2 minutes). After that, the drain plug is unscrewed, the flushing liquid is removed, a new portion is poured. The procedure is repeated several times, increasing the duration in time. Please note that during flushing at each stage, the motor must not be allowed to heat up above 50 degrees Celsius. When the temperature reaches the specified mark, the unit should be turned off immediately, giving it time to cool down.
The completion of the procedure is the drain from the flushing system, after which the drain plug is not screwed in, since it is necessary to refill the diesel fuel into the engine and rinse the pan again.
When all the residues drain, you can tighten the drain plug and fill in the previously prepared cheap engine oil. After that, you can let the engine run for about 15-20 minutes before reaching operating temperatures, and some drivers drive 2-3 kilometers at low and medium speeds (2500-3000 rpm). The remains of diesel fuel and exfoliated contaminants are washed off the surfaces and mixed with the poured oil.
Next, the indicated oil must be completely drained, and the oil filter removed. Now you can fill in normal oil and install a high-quality oil filter, that is, make a scheduled oil change in the engine.

In the process of carrying out this cleaning procedure, you should carefully monitor how much deposits and dirt are washed off at each stage. For a heavily contaminated oil system, an increase in speed or prolonged operation of the internal combustion engine in the initial stages of flushing is unacceptable. The indicator of the degree of contamination is the general condition of the drained flushing fluid. The pressure in the lubrication system and the flushing time can only be increased when the viscous deposits are washed off.

After flushing (especially with clean diesel fuel), you should be prepared for the fact that the engine can start with great difficulty at each stage. The fact is that diesel fuel has an insufficient lubricating effect, as a result of which it becomes more difficult to crank the crankshaft with a starter. This is the big minus of washing with diesel fuel, since there is increased engine wear at each start. Also, before washing with diesel fuel, it is advisable to recharge and make sure that the starter is working.

Five Minute Flush, Flushing Oil and Reduced Base Grease Change Interval

The use of special tools allows you to count on the best quality of engine flushing, since such solutions incorporate active detergent components to remove various contaminants. There are two main types of flushes: "five-minute" and flushing oil;

The so-called "five minutes" are a detergent additive to used oil, on which the engine runs for several minutes before changing the lubricant. The compositions are actively used during service oil changes. Their obvious disadvantages rightly include a negative impact on oil seals, seals and other elements.

Flushing oils are similar solutions that are divided into two types:

the first type is a product that is poured into the engine after the exhaust has been completely drained. Then the unit runs for a certain time at idle, after which the flushing oil is drained and fresh is poured. Note that such oils do not have sufficient lubricity, so they cannot be driven. To understand how much to flush the engine with this type of flushing oil, just look at the manufacturer's recommendations, which are indicated on the package.
the second type includes a less common option, when the motor is operated on flushing oil in a gentle mode (avoiding revolutions above 2000 and load) for several tens of kilometers. Then flushing must be drained and filled with fresh lubricant. The composition of this type of flushing oil is usually a mineral oil adapted for short-term operation in internal combustion engines. This wash contains a reinforced package of detergent additives for effective cleaning. We add that although the use of this oil is the least dangerous for the engine, such products are being actively forced out of the market by "five-minute" and other flushes that allow you to remove contaminants faster.

It is also worth noting that although flushing oil for a diesel engine or gasoline engine is a targeted development, simplifies the cleaning process itself and allows you to achieve good results, it can also aggressively affect various engine components.

In view of the foregoing, it is impossible to unambiguously answer the question of which flushing oil is better for a gasoline engine. A similar situation is noted in the case of . The general recommendation is that it is better to use more expensive and necessarily original flushing oils of well-known brands that promise a minimum of harm to the motor.

Considering all the risks, many motorists prefer another affordable option - reducing the change intervals for conventional engine oil. To put it simply, high-quality oil already contains a package of detergent additives that are much less aggressive to rubber and other engine parts compared to special flushes, diesel fuel, etc. It turns out that it is enough to fill in good oil, on which you plan to continue driving, then drive 2-3 thousand km on it. and refill the same.

We add that several such replacements will be enough when changing one oil to another, as well as for flushing a not very contaminated lubrication system, which makes it possible to do without the use of special equipment. The downside is that this method is quite expensive, since you will have to change the engine oil and oil filter at least twice in a short period of time.

To wash or not to wash the engine when changing the oil?

Flushing the engine is strictly prohibited when changing the oil in only one case: the car is under warranty and its maintenance according to the service book is carried out at a dealership or a certified car service. The service regulations of all manufacturers exclude this operation. This is due to the fact that the car under warranty must be operated without the slightest foreign impurities in the engine oil.

Filling fresh oil into the engine does not always require flushing

But experienced drivers and many experts also do not advise flushing the engine if high-quality synthetics or semi-synthetics are used. The argument is that the composition of engine oil includes:

mineral (refined petroleum) or synthetic (synthesized from petroleum in the laboratory) base;
a balanced set of improving additives (anti-foam and viscosity, antioxidant and anti-corrosion, detergent and anti-friction, antioxidants and deactivators, anti-wear, alkaline and other components).

The result of a stable balance of all additives is an amazing stability, which is observed throughout the entire time left until the next oil change. It is special detergent additives that do not allow sludge, slag and soot to form on the walls and in the oil channels. All contaminants accumulate in the oil itself and are removed when it is changed. Practice shows that many engines of foreign cars on high-quality oils give a run of many hundreds of thousands of kilometers without the need for flushing.

The quality of fuel in Russia leaves much to be desired, so the issue of flushing is becoming relevant in our country.

But we live in Russia. Our standards are not as strict as in developed countries, and the quality of fuels and lubricants is much worse. There are cases when flushing is needed for any car, regardless of its age, prestige and the type of engine oil used:

It is necessary to change the type of oil (mineral to semi-synthetic or vice versa); its viscosity (summer, winter, all-weather).
When switching to another manufacturer's oil (many oils cannot be mixed with each other).
After a major overhaul of the engine or the current one, if the cylinder head was removed and operations were carried out inside the engine, if the engine was disassembled.
When buying a car from a private owner, when there is no data on the frequency of replacement and the quality of the engine oil.
In emergency situations, when coolant, fuel gets into the sump, or you have to add low-quality oil.

Differences in washing diesel and gasoline

Under no circumstances is it recommended to flush a turbocharged diesel engine when changing the oil. In an emergency, you can simply change the diesel oil ahead of schedule. There are no specific flushes for power units running on diesel fuel. Diesel oil has unique properties that carburetor engine oils do not have. First of all, this is the creation of the thinnest oil film on rubbing surfaces. Thanks to this film, the mating parts are in a "floating" state, that is, they do not touch each other. Therefore, diesel oil is thicker, designed for more severe operating conditions and has its own set of additives. Any wash does not have these qualities. It contains no such additives. The use of flushes of any type on a diesel engine can lead to sad consequences: either increased wear of the rubbing parts of the diesel engine and early repairs, or its failure in a short time.

Oil for diesel engines is more “strong” in terms of cleaning engine parts during car operation than oils for gasoline engines

Working conditions, material for the manufacture of parts, the composition of soot in diesel engines and carburetor engines are very different. True, for cars with highly accelerated power units, universal oils have been developed that can be poured into both gasoline engines and diesel engines. For other types of cars, other types of motor lubricants are not suitable for each other, although 30 years ago, many motorists poured diesel oil from a KamAZ truck or from a K-700 tractor into Soviet cars. But those "Volga", "Zhiguli", "Moskvich" and "Zaporozhets" did not have turbines, injectors, electronic control units, on-board computers and other "bells and whistles". With modern expensive foreign cars, such experiments are categorically not allowed, otherwise all valuable equipment will fly.

Which is better: flushing oils, “five-minute” flushes or folk remedies

Brief description of ready-made liquids for a car

First, let's try to figure out why the problem of flushing the engine arose. During operation, various contaminants are formed in the engine: metal products from wear of rubbing parts, deposits and resins from oil oxidation, products of incomplete combustion of fuel. Ideally, additives that are in engine oil cope with all contaminants. Most oil manufacturers indicate this in the instructions: "The oil contains all the additives that ensure the normal operation of the engine." But real conditions (traffic jams, bad roads, winter weather and other reasons) cannot be called “normal”. With them, the load on the oil increases several times. Car manufacturers in such cases recommend changing the oil more often. But oil is expensive, so this method was invented - to flush the engine before changing the oil in order to get rid of the contaminants accumulated in it. Two options were offered:

in the USSR with the help of a special flushing oil;
in Western companies with the help of a variety of additives poured into old oil, helping to remove foreign impurities from the engine.

The disadvantages of the first case are that a significant amount of flushing oil remains in the engine (it is impossible to completely remove it) and a double volume of oil (engine + flushing) must be disposed of. In the West, flushing oils have not taken root, so all the well-known world brands Mobil, Shell, Castrol and others do not produce them.

Not every wash gives the desired result.

Detergent additives poured into small bottles with a volume of 200 to 500 ml should:

reduce the viscosity of the oil (make it liquid) so that it can penetrate into all the cracks and channels. This is achieved with the help of special solvents, thinners;
promote the dissolution and softening of resins, sludge, slag. This is achieved with a powerful complex of alkaline detergents;
turn the washed-out impurities into fine fractions to avoid clogging of the lubrication channels. This is achieved with the help of dispersant additives;
prevent wear of rubbing parts during flushing with diluted oil. This is achieved by adding an anti-seize component;
prevent damage to rubber products: seals, rings, pipes, hoses. This is achieved with the help of special additives (esters and silicones) in the right dosage.

Considering that all flush fluid additives are dissolved in organic solvents that are not base oils, this cocktail greatly impairs the properties of used engine oil and can cause significant damage to engine parts and assemblies. It is categorically undesirable to use five-minute flushing fluids, although many manufacturers and sellers conduct noisy advertising campaigns for their flushing products.

Video: Exposing engine flushes

Flushing oil LUKOIL

It is a mineral oil with the addition of a set of effective detergent additives. They have high detergent, anti-corrosion and anti-wear properties. Flushing oil "LUKOIL" is used to clean the lubrication systems of machine motors. Does not require disassembly. Used before adding new engine oil. Efficiently, quickly, efficiently fights against pollution in the oil systems of engines of all types.

Advantages:

quickly, effectively cleans the oil system of the power unit from deposits and waste from friction of parts against each other;
helps to significantly reduce the risk of overheating of the motor;
reduces the degree of wear of mating parts;
increases the life of the power unit, subject to regular use.

Detergent additive Liqui Moly (Liqui Molly, Germany)

Motor oil company Liqui Moly has developed its range of flushes for deep cleansing of engine oil systems. Their main difference from cheap products is that Liquid Molly contains special protective additives that eliminate the harmful effects of the flushing fluid on the motor. The company adopted the principle: "The oil in the engine must be efficient and safe."

It is good to apply an additive if you know that the previous owner of the car did not treat it carefully

The manufacturer advises choosing this flush with deep penetration into all hidden places in case of poor care of the power unit:

oil change was carried out irregularly;
cheap oils and surrogate fuel were used;
the engine often boiled;
when working at low speeds, extraneous noises and knocks were heard.

The German company guarantees the user to maintain the factory characteristics of the engine at the proper level. This applies to power, low fuel consumption, environmental exhaust gases. The engine starts quickly and runs smoothly. Flushing oil Liqui Moly is designed for long-term use (vehicle mileage of 200 km or more).

Advantages:

Activates the self-cleaning process by adding a special additive.
The presence of calcium suggests the presence of a powerful package of detergent additives, the concentration of which is 15-20% higher than usual values.
The presence of phosphorus and zinc speaks of the antiwear components included in the additive.

Video: Liqui Moly MotoClean - Flushing the oil system from the pros

Why Castrol does not consider it necessary to flush the engine with chemistry

Castrol specialists do not develop any flushes for their line of motor oils. They believe that their products are a perfectly balanced engine oil that ensures stable engine operation. The presence of any other additive destroys this balance and does not allow the oil to perform the functions specified by the manufacturer.

Runway flush additive: who should use it

Flushing the Runway oil system, according to car owners, does not always give the desired result.

Flushing Runway 5 Minute Motor Flush, according to the advertising text, is a special composition with which the engine oil system is cleaned of carbon deposits, sludge, tar and other contaminants. Promotes better oil circulation and heat removal from areas of intensive formation. Also, the creators promise to restore the mobility of the piston rings and the absence of a harmful effect on oil seals, valve stem seals and other rubber products. The volume of the bottle is 300 ml, it is used for engines with a crankcase capacity of 3-5 liters.

Folk remedies: diesel fuel, acetone, kerosene, transformer oil, solvent, gasoline

Flushing the engine with diesel fuel, acetone, kerosene, transformer oil, solvent, gasoline and other powerful solvents of various contaminants is popular only among elderly domestic drivers. Such methods were used when there were no motor oils that combined the properties of lubrication, cleaning and washing. Yes, and the engines of domestic passenger cars at that time were much simpler in design, maintenance and operation. Knowing that acetone washes away any contamination, they poured it into old oil: they wanted to use it to wash the engine from the inside. But this is a very dangerous method for the motor, since during prolonged operation on a mixture of oil and acetone, the connecting rod-piston group can simply jam. Today, kerosene mixed with acetone (Lavr flushing fluid) is recommended for cleaning piston rings from carbon deposits and coking. This work is done on a non-working engine. In rare cases, diesel fuel or kerosene is recommended to be used for classic Zhiguli models and older foreign cars. This process consists of the following steps:

warming up the engine to operating temperature;
draining used engine oil;
pouring into the oil filler neck from a plastic container using a kerosene or diesel fuel dipstick. When filling by compressing the sides of the canister, the jet pressure slightly increases, due to which the oil lines are better cleaned of dirt;
starting the engine and setting it to medium speed, after which it is necessary to let it buzz for several minutes (it is forbidden to bring the temperature of the coolant to the working value);
draining kerosene or diesel fuel and visual assessment of the degree of pollution;
changing the oil filter and filling the crankcase with new oil.

It is important to know that this method is completely unsuitable for modern machines.

Video: How to flush the engine with diesel fuel before changing the oil

Engine Flushing Process: Is It Necessary?

Many motorists believe that flushing oil lines, cavities, channels, an oil receiver and a motor pump is necessary, useful, and effective. It helps to get rid of most of all kinds of carbon deposits: soot, soot, tar, sludge and other contaminants. Mobility is restored to these same piston rings and hydraulic compensators, oil lines and channels are cleaned, oil movement is noticeably improved. The main idea is that the old oil is more thoroughly removed from the motor lubrication system. There are two types of flushing:

quick flush, otherwise it is called "five minutes";
mild or gentle rinsing.

In the first case, the flushing liquid from the container is poured into the filler neck of the heated engine. It works within five to ten minutes. During this period of time, all contaminants exfoliate, loosen and accumulate in the used oil. Then they leave with him. This method must be practiced regularly so as not to damage the oil receiver and oil pump. With a soft flush, the car must travel from 500 to 1000 kilometers so that the engine lubrication system has time to clear itself of soot, soot and deposits. This option is recommended for older engines both in terms of modification and age.

Video: Soft Engine Cleaner Review

Decoking the engine: how to do it yourself

Professional long-term flushes are very effective in removing low temperature deposits and sludge. In addition, they decoke the piston rings. Washing "Laurel" consists of 2 bottles. The first bottle is used to clean the piston rings. All actions are performed with the engine turned off. Flushing with a syringe is injected into the over-piston space. For its effective effect, you need to wait about 12 hours. The second bottle is poured into the crankcase with heated used oil and operates with the engine running.

Decarbonization of the engine by flushing "Laurel"

Flushing the engine oil system using professional flushing agents may not always give the expected effect. This procedure should be approached thoughtfully, carefully, meaningfully. If you think that you can’t do without it, try to pay less attention to advertising. Focus on the advice of practitioners and experts.

During the operation of the vehicle, a large amount of dirt and soot accumulates in the engine compartment - and it is impossible to completely protect the engine from them. But deposits can be removed by technical flushing. An engine flush is a procedure that removes contaminants from the working area of the power plant using special flushing fluids. However, among motorists there are often disputes about the need for this procedure. According to opponents, special cleaning of motors is not required - for this it is enough to buy synthetic motor oils with detergent additives. Nevertheless, let's try to figure it out - do you need to flush the engine when changing the oil or can it be excluded?

When to flush your engine

Flushing fluid inlet

Have you ever bought a used car? No matter how reliable it may seem from the outside, no one, except the seller, can say with certainty that it is splashing under the hood of such a vehicle. You can believe the convincing words of the seller and continue to “roll” the old oil. But, unfortunately, excessive trust can lead to complex and costly repairs. The fact is that people, trying to sell the car as profitably as possible, no matter how old it is, tend to confuse the buyer. By pouring a more viscous oil under the hood, they achieve a reduction in noise from the operation of the power plant. Pleasantly rumbling motor - well, who doesn't like this? Naturally, a ten or fifteen year old car with a silently running engine will seem attractive enough. But if the oil is not selected correctly or the quality of the mixture does not meet the requirements, prolonged operation of the motor with such a liquid can disable it for a long time.
In order not to fall into the tricks of scammers, after buying a car from your hands, the engine must be flushed without fail.

Also, the relevance of the procedure arises when a transition is made to a motor fluid with a different chemical composition or viscosity properties. In addition, when you purchase oil from another manufacturer (even with the same parameters as previously filled in), it is still worth flushing the engine compartment. The fact is that liquids having a different chemical composition cannot completely mix and begin to function effectively. Moreover, the interaction of additives of different types can lead to the onset of oxidative reactions that will affect the condition of the entire engine compartment.

Do you need to flush the engine when changing the oil if you are a fan of a sporty driving style? Yes. And the explanation is simple: running the engine at excessively high speeds leads to an increase in the amount of unprocessed fuel that settles in the catalyst, smokes and causes the exhaust pipe to burn out. In order to prevent this effect, it is necessary to clean the motor system at each change of engine oil. The same situation may arise if the vehicle is constantly subjected to large overloads.

When is rinsing not needed?

In order to finally understand the problem, let's get acquainted with the situations when flushing the engine when changing the oil is not required:
- You are the sole and first owner of your vehicle. At the same time, you or other users of the car observe a calm driving style that does not allow work at high speeds, abrupt starts and braking.
- Vehicle maintenance is carried out regularly, in compliance with all the requirements of the automaker, including the use of a motor fluid that is acceptable in terms of chemical composition and viscosity.
- The car is not used in the mode of increased motor load.
- The vehicle is serviced not by the owner himself, but by highly qualified car service workers who do not raise doubts about the results of their work.
- You have never topped up the “first available” engine fluid under the hood of your car for any problems on the road.
How to flush an engine?

The procedure for cleaning the engine compartment is a rather serious and time-consuming task. Why? If the flushing composition is not selected correctly, at least the seals and gaskets may fail. We will talk about more serious consequences of an incorrectly performed procedure a little later.

In order not to aggravate the situation, but, on the contrary, to reanimate the motor, it is recommended to place this responsibility on the shoulders of an experienced auto mechanic.
He must have qualified knowledge in the field of engine compartment maintenance, be able to determine the condition of the vehicle and select a gentle but effective “medicine” for cleaning. It is also recommended to diagnose the machine's engine before changing the oil.
If you think that engine flushing should be carried out for prevention, then you are mistaken. The use of alkali-containing liquids causes devastating damage to some structural elements of the power plant, which subsequently need to be replaced with new ones.

In general, flushing the engine before changing the oil is carried out in the following sequence:
- in the upper part of the engine compartment, the oil filler cap is unscrewed, in the lower part, the plug is removed. All waste fluid must be drained from the vehicle.
- the drain plug is installed back, the liquid used to clean the internal surfaces of the engine installation is poured into the engine compartment. The time of its stay in the car engine and the method of its operation at this stage is determined based on the type of detergent used.
- then the technical fluid is drained from their power plant by re-removing the drain plug. The oil filter is removed.
After completing all the steps, a new oil filter is installed and fresh protective grease is poured.

Washing methods

If you decide not to resort to the services of professionals, but on your own to maintain the engine system and carry out the procedure for cleaning it, then changing the oil should begin with determining how to flush the engine. There are the following types of detergents:

flushing oil

It can be difficult to find high-quality flushing oil for an engine in free sale: due to its not great popularity, flushing oils bring little profit, so small car dealerships do not buy them. How do they work? Yes, it’s very simple: the old lubricant is drained from the car, the engine flushing fluid is poured, and then the vehicle is operated with it in a gentle mode for a specified time. This method of washing the engine has the main advantage - cleaning allows you to effectively and efficiently remove all contaminants from the working area. But there are also negative aspects of using flushing oils: it can take up to two days to rid the motor of third-party debris and the remnants of a low-quality mixture. At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to operate the machine in conditions of large overloads. Flushing oil for the engine has only one role: it flushes out foreign deposits, but cannot provide the required level of protection against high friction forces.

Also, the seals of the power plant can also suffer from the flushing liquid: a large amount of alkali destroys their structure.

Oils are of two types:
- prolonged exposure. They are poured into the engine compartment for two days and allow you to effectively deal with contamination of mechanisms. At the same time, all 48 hours during which the oily liquid “conjures” under the hood, the driver must operate the car to the maximum, but in a quiet mode: no sudden starts and stops, high revolutions and high speeds. Driving should be smooth and measured, while the maximum speed of the car should not exceed 60 km / h. 40 km / h is the most ideal option.
- fast action. "Instant" effect engine flush oil allows you to clean carbon deposits and debris from the working area in 10 minutes. It is poured into the engine compartment after the mining is removed. An engine with such a liquid should work for the specified time only at idle - it is strictly forbidden to press the gas pedal, increasing the speed.
All oils designed for cleaning mechanisms consist of a high-quality mineral base and additional additives. Some of them - more aggressive - are involved in the direct dissolution of contaminants; while the second - sparing - is used to neutralize the harmful effects of components on internal combustion engine parts.

Used oil additives

Engine oil in the engine

If it is not possible to clean the engine with an oily liquid, then you can clean it with the help of special additives: it is impossible to make a mistake in how to use them correctly - additives are poured into the engine compartment in their pure form. In this case, there is no need to merge the processing. Additives are mixed with the main protective material and clean the motor during its operation. Such a washing base is poured for a certain amount of time before the subsequent replacement of motor lubricant. The main advantage of this method is to maintain a high degree of protection of motor units from temperature and mechanical factors while simultaneously removing polluting particles and soot from the working area. Additives do not harm oil seals, gaskets and other components of the engine compartment.

Fresh washing oil

Oddly enough, but the engine flush can also be carried out with the help of the oil that you are going to fill in the engine after changing the mining. The main condition is that it must contain detergent additives. How to do it? First of all, you need to drain the old fluid and pour a little new engine oil into the engine - a couple of liters will be enough (the main thing is that the oil level pressure light goes out). Then we start the car and leave it to idle for 10-15 minutes. After the time has elapsed, drain the lubricant, change the filter and fill in the final protective material in the required volume. This method cannot be called economical - nevertheless, you need a couple of “extra” liters of by no means cheap material, but it allows you to flush it safely for the engine, which will not entail serious malfunctions in the system.

Folk ways

Motorists with great experience in the field of servicing their own vehicle do not recognize the above methods of flushing the engine, but prefer to use the “old-fashioned” methods. Diesel fuel or kerosene can be used to dissolve contaminants and then remove them from the engine compartment. Such funds quickly soften deposits and do not hit the pocket.

Flushing the engine with diesel fuel before changing the oil allows you to clean the surface of the parts, flush the channels and lubricate them.
Opponents of this method claim that diesel fuel cannot achieve a 100% result, but, unfortunately, even professional tools do not guarantee such an effect. Especially if the pollution accumulated over several years.

Cleaning the engine with kerosene or diesel fuel is done according to the following scheme:
1. Drain the used oil, remove the old filter and install a new one.
2. Pour a few liters of flushing agent into the motor neck (without clogging the drain plug). This procedure will remove the remnants of old oil and remove small debris.
3. We close the cork in the pan and fill under the hood with the right amount of diesel fuel or kerosene.
4. We start the engine for 10-15 minutes.
5. We mute him.
6. Drain the flushing mixture, remove the now no longer new filter.
If the drained fluid contains a large amount of dirt and contaminants, the procedure can be repeated. In order to flush the engine with diesel fuel or kerosene before changing the oil, it is not necessary to use these substances in their pure form. They can be mixed with engine oil in a 1:1 ratio. Such an engine flush when changing the oil will be more gentle for the power plant.

The disadvantage of this method lies in the need to purchase two or more oil filters. However, in order to save on flushing savings, you can purchase a cheaper option.

Problems after procedures

Modern motorists prefer to get information about vehicle maintenance from the Internet. A large number of forums and advice from “experienced” drivers not only advise whether it is necessary to flush the engine when changing the oil, but also motivate you to take measures to improve engine performance in your own hands. But such an initiative may backfire for some cars. And the reason for this lies in the age of the car and the conditions of its operation.
If the owner of the vehicle has neglected the recommendations of the automaker, used low quality oils, different viscosity properties, repeatedly violated the lubricant change interval, or used the car for a long period in harsh operating conditions, engine cleaning can cause irreparable harm.

The deposits accumulating in the engine compartment sump do not in themselves have a negative impact - they only concentrate on the parts of the power plant and reduce the useful life of the oil lubricant. Is it worth talking about what happens inside such engines after adding detergent bases to them? There begins the instant process of washing off and dissolving long-term accumulations. As a result, during the flushing of the cleaning agent, the central line of the lubrication system becomes clogged. It turns out that the engine in which the oil is filled does not receive it in full. And this is fraught with jamming of the crankshaft. It is often possible to correct the situation with blockage of the main channels only mechanically - by partially or completely disassembling the power plant of the machine.

Summarize

Flushing the engine when changing the oil is definitely a necessary procedure. Even if you do not subject the car to large overloads, deposits accumulate inside it. Albeit in small quantities, but they are present. And sometimes it is impossible to wash them with ordinary motor oils. In order to clean the internal surface of the engine installation, special detergent components are used. But it is impossible to immediately determine whether the procedure for their use will have serious consequences or not. Especially if you are servicing a car bought from your hands. Only an experienced auto mechanic can tell about the state of his propulsion system. Therefore, after purchasing a used vehicle, it is recommended to take it to a service center for diagnostics and preventive maintenance.