Kia Ceed SW FL 2010 1.6 5MT
2.5 years, mileage 30 t. km.

It turned out interestingly on a recent Sunday (15.07). Kazan highway, Vetchakovskaya mountain, the road from the garden. Standard cork. Purely Russian, idiotic. When a truck at a speed of 7 km/h overtakes another truck traveling at a speed of 5 km/h.

Warm, +29. There are five people in the car. Cork, bad. Many overtake on the side of the road. First, gas, one and a half meters, brake. And at this pace for about 30 minutes. At a speed of 0.5 km / h. Already on the mountain, the road has become freer, the second, third and ... do not go! The engine roared, the revolutions jumped to 4000 thousand, but ... there is no acceleration! Okay, let off the gas, on the second, slowly. Another try - and again the same thing!

In a minute it was restored, of course, but - the most unpleasant phenomenon, however. The clutch slips.
I didn’t want to believe it, and further along the highway I checked for everyone. Nah, everything's fine. The clutch is cold and working. However, an unpleasant aftertaste remained.
There was no noise, no smell, nothing suspicious or special. It's just a slipping clutch.

From 9 pm to 3 am I read everything and everything on the Internet, about an overheated, burned, burned clutch.

The general summary is Khan's clutch. First call. After it, it usually starts to burn. More often - within a month. We must change.

The next day after work, I tried to check the car again. On the mountain. Speed ​​50 km/h. In third gear. Pedal to the floor. No effect. I mean, don't check. Everything works fine. Yes, and 5-6 thousand revolutions - how to get them? The computer does not give! That is, the pedal to the floor is a task for the car to increase speed. After three or four seconds, the revolutions begin to grow little by little, the acceleration of the car is adequate - acceleration begins slowly. There is no slippage.

Went to see my brother mechanic.

How, what, why?

Yes, how and why ... The car is like that. And the driving style has nothing to do with it (it is recommended on the Internet - do not keep your foot on the clutch - in fact, this is complete nonsense and crap. I really want to look at this asshole, who writes and (probably) drives. Most likely, this is a purely theoretical asshole, who had never traveled across Russia, so he sucked something out of his finger).

Because the cork. Up a long mountain. 3-4 real lanes instead of two - they drive along the side of the road, others overtake them, along the same side of the road. And the main lanes are busy. Because the trucks "chase" a race.
And try not to go close to the one in front - the “muzzle” of the “happy” one immediately breaks in, that is, the arrogant one. AND average speed- 1-2 km. You can't drive at that speed in the first one - it's too slow. That's why you work with the clutch all the time - the first, sometimes the second, the brake, the first - too quickly - you release the clutch - and so - the whole mountain.

Brother's summary after inspection and testing of the clutch - it's time. Releaser has become too thin. And the clutch grabs already too high (by depressing the pedal). No, you can drive, of course. And it's okay to drive. And to check - to achieve the same slipping of the clutch, it is possible only in the same exhausting half-hour traffic jam when driving uphill. Slippage will repeat, 100%, maybe even the clutch will start to smoke. And with normal driving everything will be fine. That is - autumn, winter, and spring is possible (in normal conditions) to travel.

- Is it necessary to change?
- take a look yourself. Was there a call?
- yes, it was
- Well, what do you want?

Ahead - Sochi and the serpentine with the Novo-Mikhailovsky pass, where it will not work without traffic jams. Therefore, the risk of standing somewhere there, at a 180-degree turn and immediately climbing 30 degrees, is very high. And the repair of the clutch in the south will cost by no means 10 thousand, that's all.

I ordered a set - a basket, a cylinder, a clutch release in my native foreign car. They offered either a “native” Kia-Sid kit (4600 rubles) or a Valeo kit (3800 rubles). A 6-hour reading of everything and everyone on the Internet gave a lot of information. That is why I did not think for a long time - I ordered Valeo. Moreover, it can be brought by the end of the week (two or three days), and the native will have to wait two or three weeks.

Besides -
The native Kia Ceed clutch does not go for a long time. And at 4-8 thousand, many burned it. And 30-40 thousand is one hundred percent practically a clutch for replacement. [On some seeds (maybe 2005-2007 years of release), the clutch goes up to 100 thousand without problems].

It’s still fresh in my memory, where the “pupils of Fursenko and the exam” ripped off 6 thousand rubles and didn’t do anything - they didn’t tighten the handbrake (asked to see), they didn’t replace the stabilizer struts (they are already tapping), slipped 90-ruble candles for 400 rubles each, on which I couldn’t even leave the service (!), My old ones were screwed in.

Complete clutch kit ordered on Monday. The basket with the disk came quickly, only the releaser had to wait a whole week. The next week, on Wednesday, I gave the car to my brother. Fortunately, the week of waiting for the clutch release smoothly moved to Monday, Tuesday, then the store simply swore that it would be on Wednesday.

Everything arrived on Wednesday. My brother dismantled the car (oh, and fear! The wheels are removed, the axles are removed, the engine is partially weakened and raised - a lot of things had to be removed and turned away - it's creepy to look at). My brother went for the clutch himself, started to put it on, and ... it doesn’t fit! Yes, a brand new clutch, Valeo, for new Kia cars Ceed SW FL 2010, specifically for the WIN code printed on Windshield- NOT SUITABLE! The shape of the petals of the basket is different - wider and the petals are larger. And the basket itself is bigger - it simply does not fit. And it doesn't fit on the axle.

Situation - do not believe your eyes. A call to me, a call to a foreign car - what the hell did they bring! Those - that ordered by WIN code, then they brought it! We went to a foreign car, checked it ourselves, checked it, rechecked it - that's right - my car should have a clutch that they brought. And it doesn't fit!

It looks like the first batch of FL 2010 cars was made with a shitty clutch, it’s not for nothing that many Kia-Sid forums call the Kia Ceed clutch weak point. And many burn it at 4-8 thousand km. The Koreans would have to apologize to the buyers and correct their mistake, but ... they acted differently. They just quietly changed the clutch to a more efficient one and new cars (with the same WIN code!!!) began to be produced with a new clutch, completely unsuitable for the first n-thousandth batch of FL 2010 cars. What a fucking act!

And what to do? They started calling all the stores, warehouses. What about calling? What to ask? We need a clutch for such and such a WIN, but not for this, but ... for this, only another ... Some kind of nonsense.

They took their own removed clutch with them and were going to just drive around the Nizhny Novgorod warehouses, look for the same - but how else? Then a little luck. Someone also ordered a clutch kit for Kia Ceed FL 2010 in the same foreign car, only “native”, a certain Hyunday / Kia. Compare - it is! They took him.

Later, the store itself figured out the situation, and found it somewhere in Moscow right grip(with the same dimensions), only normal, walking standard 150 thousand, but it was necessary to wait another week.

There was no time at all - tomorrow to the south, and therefore they took what turned up - a small and shitty "native" clutch. According to my brother - the design is complete shit. And this new clutch is enough for 20 thousand, no more. Because the design of the "native" clutch is wrong in principle. And the petals are small, and the pressure is not the same. Korea, in short. [Korea] - this is already the dirtiest swear word.

He collected everything already on Thursday, closer to dinner. And I literally an hour later went to the south.
Didn't feel any sensations. Same grip as before. And seizes completely somewhere in the upper half. And upon arrival from the south, the clutch became exactly the same as it was - it grabs at the top, as it was for the first two and a half years.

Disappointment turned out just wild. Another major confirmation that the Kia Ceed SW FL 1.6 MT is an extremely “raw” and frankly weak car is obtained. NOT thoughtful. It looks beautiful, it seems to have all the bells and whistles, and the price is appropriate - specifically, mine cost me 750 thousand rubles. And in fact - some rawhide crap. No, the models of 2013, PROBABLY, will be better, since in the same configuration they now cost exactly a million rubles (950-970 tr), but it is hard to believe in it. Specifically, the clutch - yes, quietly changed to a more walking one, it will [probably] walk normally. Only everything else ... yes, one hundred percent the same raw meat.

Here's the story with the clutch for the Kia Ceed SW FL 2010.

I paid 4000 for the work. Specifically, only the basket and clutch release were replaced - they cost 2498 rubles. That is, all works - 6,498 rubles. And in a year, you will have to lay out one and a half times more, because this “new” clutch will not be enough for a long time and you will have to take-put a more advanced and working clutch.

A little struck by the design of the release bearing. This is 122 horses being transferred for the movement of a one and a half ton car through such a thin 8 mm rim!

No, for Korea, where there are no traffic jams, no off-road, no garages somewhere in the field or dachas with an impassable road and there are no slippages, this is probably enough. However, this is absolutely not suitable for rashi!

I immediately remembered. On which where only did not skid. And in 10 years of operation, almost everything has broken, changed, repaired. And even after 8 years of operation. But not the clutch!

In general, of course, Kia Ceed disappointed completely. 2.5 years car TOTAL! And such problems!
Yes, no she is, this kia ceed turns out. And absolutely not for Russian conditions operation. Weak case, weak parts, no electronics. Although, maybe it was specially configured that way. Because try to remove these brakes in the machine control program and give the car all its 122 horses - yes, it will crumble in six months!

Campaign, the most strong machines- it's Americans (probably). AND soviet cars(only not Russians! - God forbid). After, probably, the Germans. And somewhere in the hundredth place - the Koreans.

Such is the situation.

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Removal and installation (replacement) of clutch

The main malfunctions, the elimination of which requires the removal and disassembly of the clutch:

Increased (compared to the usual) noise when the clutch is engaged;

Jerks during clutch operation;

Incomplete engagement of the clutch (clutch "slips");

Incomplete clutch disengagement (clutch "leads").

HELPFUL ADVICE

If the clutch fails, we recommend replacing all its elements at the same time (driven and pressure disks, clutch release bearing); Clutch replacement work is laborious, and intact clutch elements are already depleted, so if they are reinstalled, it may be necessary to replace the clutch again after a relatively small mileage.

You will need: a “12” wrench (a socket head is more convenient), a mounting blade, a mandrel for centering the driven disk.

1. Remove the gearbox

2. If you install the old pressure plate, mark in any way (for example, with paint) the relative position of the disc casing and the flywheel in order to set the pressure plate in its original position (to maintain balance).

3. Holding the flywheel with a mounting spatula (or a large screwdriver) from turning, unscrew the six bolts securing the clutch pressure plate casing to the flywheel (for clarity, the photo was taken on removed engine). Loosen the bolts evenly: each bolt has two turns of the wrench, moving from bolt to bolt in diameter

NOTE

On a vehicle equipped gasoline engine, the clutch pressure plate is attached to the flywheel with six bolts, and on a car with diesel engine- nine bolts.

4. Remove the clutch pressure and clutch discs from the flywheel while holding the clutch disc.

5. Examine a conducted disk of coupling. Cracks on the details of the driven disk are not allowed.

6. Check for wear friction linings.

7. If the rivet heads are sunk by less than 0.3 mm, the surface of the friction linings is oily, or the rivet connections are loose, then the driven disk must be replaced.

If the lining of the driven disk is oily, then the cause may be wear of the oil seal. input shaft gearboxes. It may need to be replaced.

8. Check the reliability of fixation of the damper springs in the sockets of the hub driven disk trying to move them into the sockets of the hub by hand. If the springs move easily in their sockets or are broken, replace the disc.

9. Check up runout of a conducted disk if at visual inspection warping was found. If the runout is greater than 0.5 mm, replace the disc

10. Inspect the working friction surfaces of the flywheel ...

11. ... and the pressure plate, paying attention to the absence of deep scratches, scuffs, nicks, obvious signs of wear and overheating, Replace defective assemblies.

12. If the rivet connections of the casing and pressure plate parts are loose, replace the pressure plate assembly.

13. External examination evaluate the condition of the pressure plate diaphragm spring. The presence of cracks on the diaphragm spring is not allowed. Places And the contact of the petals of the spring with the clutch release bearing should be in the same plane and not have obvious signs of wear (wear should not be more than 0.8 mm). Otherwise, replace the pressure plate assembly.

14. Inspect the connecting links of the casing and disc. If the links are deformed or broken, replace the pressure plate assembly.

16. ...and inside springs. Rings must be free of cracks and signs of wear. Otherwise, replace the pressure plate assembly.

17. Before installing the clutch, check the ease of movement of the driven disk along the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox. If necessary, remove the causes of seizing or replace defective parts.

18 Apply high-melting grease to the splines of the driven disc hub.

19. When mounting the clutch, first install the driven disk using a mandrel, and then the casing of the pressure plate, aligning the marks made before removing, and screw in the bolts securing the casing to the flywheel,

NOTE

Install the driven disc so that the protruding part of the disc hub is directed towards the diaphragm spring of the clutch housing.

20. Screw in the bolts evenly, but one turn of the wrench each, alternately, as shown in the photo.

21. Remove the mandrel and install the gearbox.

22. Check clutch operation

Replacing a clutch on a Kia Sid takes 3 to 8 hours. Replacement Kia clutch Ceed is done only with the removal / installation of the gearbox. On some models, to remove the box, you need to remove the subframe. Determine what exactly to change: disk, basket or release bearing, best after the box is removed.

The decision to replace the clutch with a Kia Ceed must be made after a diagnosis in a car service. Some of the symptoms may look like a faulty transmission or shift mechanism. On robotic boxes(robot, easytronic, etc.), after replacing the clutch, it is necessary to adapt the setting point. This can be done at our stations.

Kia Sid clutch replacement cost:

If you notice that the clutch starts to behave differently than before, we recommend that you immediately contact a car service for diagnostics. If you start this moment, then later, in addition to replacing the clutch with a Kia Sid, you will also have to replace the flywheel. And the cost of the flywheel is several times higher than the cost of the clutch kit.

When replacing the clutch, we also recommend replacing the crankshaft rear oil seal and replacing the axle oil seals. When replacing the clutch, a good mechanic will always pay attention to the condition of the gear selector shaft seal as well. The cost of oil seals is minimal and it is better to do everything at once, without overpaying for the same work in the future.

Replacement cost kia clutch The seed depends on the need to remove the subframe and remove the box. It happens that people try to replace the clutch on their own, nothing comes out of them and they bring a semi-disassembled car to us.

The main symptoms of a bad clutch are:
- increased noise when engaging and disengaging the clutch;
- incomplete engagement of the clutch (clutch "slips");
- incomplete disengagement of the clutch (clutch "leads");
- jerks during clutch operation.

Clutch replacement warranty- 180 days.

The best clutch kits release : LUK, SACHS, AISIN, VALEO.

Clutch diagnostics when replacing at our service station - free of charge!