Towing rope dynamic jerky how to choose. Pull-pull

Towing rope dynamic jerky how to choose. Pull-pull

What is it and why is it needed? It looks like an ordinary towing cable, but it's only in appearance. The main difference between a jerky cable and a conventional towing cable is the ability to stretch. What does it give?

Difference from the usual rope.

Firstly, it reduces the shock load on the car's towing eyes. For those who know physics, let me remind you, but for those who don’t, I’ll tell you - any physical bodies endure static loads much better than sharp dynamic ones. On the fingers, it looks like this - if a rope is hanging tied somewhere above and you take hold of it, gently squeezing your legs. Thus, smoothly transferring the load of your body to the rope - you will peacefully hang on it and the rope will withstand you. But if you jump on it with a run, then the contact of your fifth point with the ground is inevitable. The rope just won't hold up. So it turns out that due to this stretching, there is less chance (I’m not saying that you can’t fool around and break a titanium ball) to break the cable itself and also pull out the towing eye. By the way, the latter often happens when using metal cables. And of course, the jerk disappears - instead, the driver feels a soft but very strong and noticeable acceleration. So this is the first difference from the usual cable.

Secondly, due to this very stretching, more forces can be applied than with a conventional cable. In other words, your eye with a dynamic line can, say, withstand 5 tons of applied force, and when jerking with a conventional cable, you risk pulling out the eye already at 2 tons of applied force. It also increases the time for applying force to a stuck car. If with a conventional cable it is some fractions of a second only directly during the jerk itself, then the dynamic cable begins to transfer force by stretching.

Thirdly, of course, after the cable has stretched, it tends to return to its original state, i.e. shrink thereby again applying force to the stuck car. This can be clearly seen in the following picture, by the way, in this magazine there is an interesting article on the topic of jerky cables.

Fourthly, the safety of car units. Everyone understands that a hard jerk will not bring anything good to the car units - from the engine to the splines in the hubs. With a conventional cable, when jerking, really high loads arise in the units of a jerking car that can lead to breakage (automatic transmissions are especially sensitive to shock loads). When using a jerky cable and a head, of course, this negative moment comes to naught. Instead of a jerk, the load increases smoothly and decreases just as smoothly, plus, as I wrote above, the load time increases significantly. The difference for the units is colossal - it's like throwing a five-kilogram weight from 2 meters onto your leg or putting it on you.

About safety clearly

Safety.

The video above is just a great example. During the jerk, large forces act on the cable and car, and unfortunately, cases of cable breaks or parts of the car are not uncommon (as in the video). But in almost 100% of cases this happens for three reasons. The first is, of course, the absolutely thoughtless use of the cable. If the car is stuck up to the windows and the tug, pulling almost at full strength, does not move even a centimeter of the stuck one. It is clear that it is time to change tactics: pick up a shovel, pull out tracks, perhaps change the direction of extraction, etc. But there are hotheads who continue to pull more and more until the natural end ... The second is poor-quality tuning, in fact, a fairly common problem, often poorly welded lugs, power bumpers with poor fastenings and other things are very fond of "shooting" in the forest. Therefore, my advice to you is not to chase cheapness, trust those who have experience in this. And the third reason is the state of the car. For some reason, many people believe that in order to drive through the forest, any garbage dump with all-wheel drive will fit: “but still kill her in the forest.” It may, of course, not be a pity, but when driving off-road, the car body experiences much greater loads than on asphalt, and therefore it is categorically contraindicated to use cars with severe corrosion on off-road. Let's return to our video - in our case, a poorly installed security officer turned into an unguided projectile. What do you think would happen to a person if this bumper flew at his feet (God forbid if he were next to the cable)? The weight of this bumper is 15kg at best, or even more ... Correctly, it could easily break the legs ...


These are the consequences of a broken eyelet (photo taken here http://www.niva-club.net/viewtopic.php?p=455386) ... And if a piece of iron hits the head with such force? I think it is not necessary to paint the possible consequences in colors and upload photos and videos of these terrible incidents. Therefore, safety precautions must be known like the back of your hand!!! What's more, it's not that complicated.

- NEVER STAND NEAR OR ABOVE A TENSIONED ROPE

It is highly recommended to use a cable arrester. For example, such as in the photo above, in the absence of it, just a jacket thrown over a cable, a laid log or a heavy branch will do. So if the car is stuck tightly and the force used is already very large, which is applied to get it out in your opinion. USE A ROPE EXHAUSTER - let it be a log, a jacket, a heavy branch instead of a branded contraption ... Yes, whatever, the main thing is to ensure your safety! The cable arrester is hung approximately in the middle of the cable.

Very clearly about the work of the jerk (dynamic) cable

How to use Dynamic Rope.

There are no complexities or tricks here, everything is outrageously simple. The only thing you need is a little experience to develop a sense of "cable". If possible, freeing the wheels of a stuck car if it is deeply stuck, placing tracks, branches or stones if necessary. We connect 2 cars with each other - shackles (rigging brackets) are usually used to attach the cable to the eyes. Let me remind you that after you have twisted your finger in the shakla, you need to make a third of a turn back because of this, the finger will not bite and you can easily unwind it back later. After that, start towing, starting with small efforts, gradually increasing the applied force as necessary. That is, first do small accelerations and, if necessary, increase the speed. After acceleration, your car will start to slow down as soon as the cable begins to stretch, here you need to catch the moment when the car almost stopped. Then release the gas pedal, thereby you will save your box from excessive loads, as well as other units. Further, as soon as the car has stopped, immediately press the brake, but do not rush to reverse gear or release the brake. Because the dynamic cable at this time is in a stretched state - it tries to shrink back, thereby still transferring force to the stuck car. Wait a minute, see if the stuck car slips out of the mud captivity, if not, turn on the reverse gear, reverse it and try increasing the acceleration speed even more.

So let's summarize what was written above - why do we need a jerky cable (aka dynamic)?

- instead of a jerk, we get a smooth increase in load

- with a jerky cable, we can apply much more force to rescue the car

- due to compression, the cable will transmit force to the stuck car, even after the tug has stopped

- reducing the load on the vehicle units (especially automatic transmission)

Well, another video from one of the channels about a dynamic cable

If you are going to conquer real shits, then be sure to take a reliable sling with you. You just need to know when to pull with which rope.

What slings are

Types of slings used on the road:

  • Towing type slings - used to transport one off-road vehicle to another. Such rope slings do not have a high degree of stretch, and fibers from elastic materials are not woven into their composition. This rig is cheaper. However, the fibers woven into such a rope have an increased resistance to the action of mechanical factors (friction).
  • Slings dynamic (jerk) - are used to "pull out" a stuck SUV from specific shit. They are a tape-type rope, the weaving of which consists of elastic fibers. The ends of such a sling are reinforced with special loops.

In the photo below - ARB's jerky cable is a cool thing, but it's hard to find on sale.

The cost of jerky type is higher than conventional towing. The appearance of both types of ropes can be the same. But when choosing a dynamic sling, you should not chase a cheap option. Most likely, Chinese towing crap is being sold under the guise of a jerk cable.

When to Pull and What to Pull

In general, it is better to have both types of halyards in your off-road arsenal. But for pulling out of assholes, a dynamic sling is much preferable to a regular towing sling. As with transportation, it is better to use a tow rope. Arguments:

  • Ryvkovy sling possesses high elasticity. That is, its fibers under the action of a load are able to stretch evenly, and then, under the action of the accumulated stretching energy, gradually return to their original size.
  • Due to the gradual stretching and smooth transition to the original position, the dynamic rope, when pulled, reduces the impact of the jerk force on the components of both vehicles (both the tug and the load). On the other hand, it allows you to increase the power of the jerk with the energy of stretching, and increase the chances of saving the "drowning" from shit.
  • It is better not to use a towing sling for pulling. This rule is unwritten among all off-road auto extremes. And it is violated only when there is nothing more to hook.
  • When pulling a stuck vehicle with another using normal towing, the jerk method increases the risk of damage to the components of both vehicles. Because such a cable abruptly and completely transfers the energy of a jerk, and part of it is not compensated (not absorbed) by stretching the elastic fibers. The result of such use can be a torn off bumper or a part of the front end of an SUV uprooted.
  • When towing a car with a dynamic sling, there is a high probability of its rupture and stretching. That, in addition to economic damage, it can also harm the health of not only cars, but also people. After all, a tearing jerk rope has an order of magnitude greater strength than a regular one. Therefore, to reduce the tensile force at break, it is better to use special energy absorbers.

Which sling to choose

When choosing any type of sling, the weight of your SUV and the intended “load” is decisive. Of course, being a tugboat is more pleasant. But as the off-road experience shows, everyone has been in the role of cargo at least once. Therefore, both values ​​are important.

When buying a towing sling for off-road needs, a rope with a maximum load of up to 8 tons and a standard length of about 9 m will be enough. Such a product costs around 700 rubles.

The choice of dynamic rope should be made carefully, taking into account the weight of a particular vehicle:

  • For an SUV up to 2 tons (, Shniva, Jimny), the load withstood by the sling must be at least 8 tons.
  • For a weight of up to 3 tons (off-road prepared UAZ) - with a load limit of 9 - 11 tons.

More than 3 tons (Land Cruiser, Pajero Sport) - with a limit of more than 11 tons. It is very desirable to take with a margin, although the lines are strong, but sometimes they break when the load is greater. Optimal for large "zhypy" - take 14 tons. In the video below, they just tested one - just super, they pulled the Suzuki Grand Vitara out of an ambush.

The price of jerk slings depends on the manufacturer and on the calculated load. For example, the rigging of our domestic manufacturer for 8 tons and 9 meters long costs about 2,000 rubles. A foreign analogue with the same characteristics of length and load level will cost a piece and a half more.

Well, a short guide on how to use a jerk cable. Hang something on the rope first. This is a type of "cable arrestor" so that if the cable breaks, its fastening does not fly into the towing vehicle. For safety in general, because there have been cases when a cable and its parts of fasteners flew over people, injuries are inevitable in this situation. So make the most of your safety. Next — acceleration meter 2 and sharply on the brakes. And then the energy of the cable to compress itself will pull the stuck car.

Proven analogues

The slings produced by the American company Pro Comp are proven. Here are some reviews about them:

Andrey, Belgorod.

I've had ProComp for 6 years now. The most test was when my Pajero was sucked in the gut into the swamp silt. He pulled the T-150, having broken a couple of metal cables before that. And on this sling he pulled it out.

Ruslan, Minsk.

Normal goods. Before that, there were two Chinese crap - only enough for a couple of months. I squinted. But then I bought a Pro comp. Been with me for 3 years now. Why didn’t she pull out!

There are also good reviews about products - T-max, a well-known manufacturer of winches.

Each of us got into a situation where a stuck car needs to be pulled out of the mud by another car. But not all of us had the right snatch cable. Dynamic, or jerky, cables and slings are radically different from classic towing.

Their main difference is in the ability to stretch and compress with quite a lot of force. On the one hand, this is great, because it allows you to pull out heavy cars from an ambush without fatal consequences for both cars. On the other hand, it is a huge drawback, because just like that, without preparation, it will not work to use them correctly.

A LITTLE THEORY
The dynamic cable, stretching, smoothly accumulates energy, and at the moment when the tension reaches a critical level, it contracts sharply. This is the main difficulty in communicating with him. If you correctly catch the compression moment and stop the front car, then the rear one will most likely be released from captivity. It would seem that everything is simple. But without practice, it is not easy to catch this moment. Usually they slow down either earlier or later than necessary. In the first case, the tension force is not enough for a full jerk. In the second, the stuck car plays the role of an anchor, and the front car leans back.


Another common mistake is to immediately “tear” at full strength. If the SUV is stuck in good faith, then there is a risk of depriving one of the cars of at least a towing eye with a powerful jerk. And she, breaking away, will fly in the direction where the cable pulls her. Do you know what kind of destruction a piece of iron flying at great speed can cause? Most often in this case, glass or bodywork is damaged. In especially neglected cases, even the frame suffers. At worst, people. Therefore, before pulling out the car, you should shake it slightly, slightly pulling the cable several times. And, of course, do not forget about the "cable arrester" - a padded jacket or something similar, hung in the middle of the line.

If everything is done correctly and the dynamic properties of the cable are really good, then it will not be difficult even for a Niva or a dzhimnik to extract some medium-sized SUV that has sat down on the bottom from a muddy clay rut.

GREAT OPPORTUNITIES
There is an opinion that jerky cables are only suitable for pulling stuck cars. Due to the fact that they stretch, they allegedly cannot be used as a bark protector or extension when working with a winch. Many do not advise using "dynamics" for towing on roads - also a misconception about the capabilities of this equipment.

ProComp Explorer (9 m, 14 t, 4200 rubles)
Works softly, but provides a powerful jerk. Allows you to pull out a heavy car with a light one without damage. Optimal price-quality ratio.



ARB 201100 (9 m, 15 t, 5500 rubles)
Excellent, efficient dynamic sling. Non-rigid work, impressive, but smooth jerk. Along with the line from ProComp, it is recognized as the leader of the test, but inferior to it in terms of availability.



Rope from a cargo parachute (6 m, 7 t, 350 rubles)
In work it is very rigid, despite the high coefficient of elongation. Apparently, this is due to the fact that he is not able to sharply shrink. As a dynamic cable will not work.



Master Pull Super-Yanker (6 m, 8.6 t, 3300 rubles)
Soft jerk, but long recovery of the original length. It can be used as a dynamic rope, but the breaks between jerks must be long.

The cables under load do stretch, but not as critical as it might seem at first glance. For example, our tests of different lines and cables showed that the maximum stretch that was achieved was 2.8 m with a length of less than 7.5 m in a calm state. And this is on a rope that is not dynamic in the truest sense of the word: after the load is removed, it does not fully return to its original state. Real jerk slings lengthen during a jerk by no more than one and a half to two meters, and with a load of 4 tons - by a maximum of 1.2 m.

And such an elongation, you see, is not too critical for using the “dynamics” both as a casing protector and as an extension cord. Although in the first case there is a risk of rapid abrasion of the sling on the bark of a tree only in extreme cases.

A little more difficult with towing. Jerk cables are made of a material that easily frays when in contact with a hard surface. Therefore, the main thing is not to let it sag. And here a lot depends on the driver of the driven car. It is necessary to clearly assess the position of the hitch above the surface and not be shy to actively press the brake. In this case, you should not be afraid of sharp jerks - after all, these cables, unlike conventional towing cables, stretch, and the movement of both cars is smooth. And control over the position of the “straw” is facilitated by a large length: jerk cables shorter than six meters are almost never found. By the way, the longer the jerky cable, the better: you can accelerate faster, and an SUV “jumping out” of an ambush is less likely to catch up with the tugboat.

AMBULAR REALITY
That's probably the whole theory. If you master these principles, then the dynamic cable will serve faithfully for quite a long time. Only it must be correct, which in practice is not always the case. We decided to check how the statements of the sellers correspond to the truth. As a result, almost the entire range of those slings, ropes, ropes, which are positioned as dynamic, were collected in Moscow. We added a pair of parachute lines to them: from the cargo and braking parachutes, which in theory also have dynamic properties. And they also took for comparison a sling, which is considered to be a towing line, which does not have “springy” properties. The results make us suspect that it is unlikely that it will be possible to choose the right dynamic sling only on the prompts of sellers. To be honest, in all respects, only two samples corresponded to the concept of a “universal dynamic line”: the American ProComp and the Australian ARB. Logic dictates that the greater the strength, the harder the sling should work with light vehicles. So, for these representatives, the tensile strength was, respectively, 14 and 15 tons. But they worked softly, they have the largest elongation both in jerking and stretching, and the return to the original state is absolute. True, the cost is also at the level: 4200 rubles. for "American" and 5500 for "Australian".

4х4 Shop (10 m, 10 t, 2100 rubles)
A very hard working, but at the same time really dynamic cable. Small stretch factor, but excellent compression. There is a carry bag. Suitable for heavy SUVs.



Runva (10 m, 8 t, 2625 rubles)
Not bad quality of work: powerful, but accurate jerk. Restores the original length for a long time. Suitable for light off-road vehicles in conditions of excess time.



Sling from a brake parachute (5 m, 15 t, 1150 rubles)
Not a dynamic line at all. Works hard, despite the high elongation. Reluctantly returns to its original state.



T-Max (9 m, 13 t, 2500 rubles)
The towing sling was taken as a reference. It works exactly like a towing one: a hard jerk, a slight elongation. When compared with a dynamic cable, the difference is huge.

Almost close to them is a polyamide cable from the American company Master Pull. It has a lower breaking force, 8600 kg, it also works softly, while providing a fairly powerful jerk. The disadvantage is a long recovery after a jerk. In our case, after pulling out the UAZ, the cable stretched quite a lot and became much thinner. We already thought of labeling it as “disposable”, fortunately it worked really well, but after a while the cable returned to almost its original state, lengthening by only a few centimeters. The same thing happened under load: good elongation and slow compression. The cost of this cable is relatively small, 3300 rubles, but if you remember that its length is only 6 meters compared to nine for the previous lines, then the price is comparable. And if you take into account the tensile strength (8.6 tons versus 14 and 15), then the purchase no longer seems so profitable. But, nevertheless, offset.

The sling of the Runva brand behaved interestingly. They say she is from China. If this is true, then the Chinese are great. The eight-ton line worked classically: it quickly gained energy and gave it away with a powerful, but neat jerk. At the same time, its elongation coefficient is not too large, and the restoration of the initial length takes a long time. At the same time, the price is again comparable with the winners.

ComeUp (9 m, 10 t, 2000 rubles)
This sling showed characteristics typical of towing products. Almost no stretch, no residual elongation, the jerk is very hard. Cannot be used for dash.



Ironman (9 m, 11 t, 4025 rubles)
The line is good, but not dynamic. Almost does not stretch, the jerk is tough. More suitable as a bark protector or tow rope. Carrying bag included.



The article is dedicated to all lovers of SUVs and those who want to “climb” where impassable mud reigns. We will discuss how to choose a dynamic jerky towing cable. Although, given the quality of our roads, it is possible to “ambush” without being an extreme. This is how even a harmless trip to nature or to the village to visit grandfather (especially in autumn or spring) can end. Therefore, lovers of lakes and kebabs in the forest will also not be superfluous. After all, despite the similarities (I would even say kinship), there are more than enough differences between a conventional cable and a jerk cable.

How to choose a towing dynamic jerk cable? To answer this question, you need to know what this kind of halyard is used for. Jerk cables are designed strictly for one purpose: to wrest from the clutches of mud a car that is tightly “settled” there. They are not well suited for towing cars on smooth roads and long distances. Therefore, for such purposes, it is recommended to have a conventional towing cable available. Otherwise, uselessly and irrevocably spoil a very expensive dynamic. Yes, and periodic jerks on the road will not add any convenience or safety.

What is the difference?

If a classic cable has a very low extensibility (no more than 3% of its original length), then for a dynamic (jerk) cable, this figure exceeds as much as 30%. It is thanks to this that the effect of “pulling out” is created (gradual stretching, and then a sharp compression).

You should immediately warn that it will not be possible to effectively use such a cable without skills. It is necessary to calculate the braking torque very accurately. If you slow down earlier, the jerk effect will be significantly reduced. If you pull with braking “to victory”, then the overtightened cable will sharply jerk back the towing vehicle. The result may already be 2 cars sitting in an “ambush” (or even kissing at the same time).

How to choose?

We warn you right away, outwardly dynamic cables may not differ at all from classic towing cables. But it is very different in composition and quality of weaving. The snatch sling uses fibers with very high elasticity. At the edges of the dynamic sling, reinforcing loops must be present.

Be sure to consider tractive power. If you ride a full-fledged heavyweight, you should not buy a frail “rope”. Not the last indicator is the length of the sling. The larger it is, the more energy will be transferred to the jerk. Although, here, too, you should not overdo it. Some types of slings are restored for a rather long time (if you are not lucky, then you will come across a one-time option). Yes, and to see the towing object will also not be superfluous.

If you can't figure it out yourself, then don't be shy. Please consult with the seller. True, as practice shows, all the same assurances of sellers are not a guarantee of quality.

Rating or best slings

  • Pro Comp Explorer(USA). This way you can pull out a heavy car with a lighter one. Works very gently, but at the same time guarantees a jerk of great power. Traction threshold 14 tons, length 9 meters;
  • ARB 201100(Australia). In non-rigid work, it guarantees a powerful, but at the same time smooth jerk. The parameters are the same as the previous one, but much more difficult to find on sale;
  • Runva(10 meters, 8 tons). Very good jerk performance for the Chinese sample. If the car being pulled is not too heavy and you have plenty of time, then this is a good option. Among the shortcomings: it takes too long to restore the original length;
  • 4x4 shop(Russia). Yes, and something works for us too. Extensibility is average, but, at the same time, the sling is perfectly restored (and quickly). It works a little harsh, but at the same time it gives excellent jerk dynamics. Comes with a bag for transportation. Ideal for heavyweight (10 meters, 10 tons);
  • Master Pull(USA). The cable made of polyamide of this brand (Super-Yanker) showed very good performance. There are quite a few shortcomings. It will take a long time to wait for the restoration of the original length and volume. So, pauses between jerks will be decent. Although the jerk itself is quite powerful and smooth. The traction threshold is only 8.5 tons, and the length is 6 meters. Use this "baby" only for the lightest machines.

What to fear?

Don't go cheap. In this way, you can purchase ordinary rope made in a Chinese basement. Remember, a real quality jerk sling is not cheap.

The use of cheap stuff and fakes is fraught with both broken cars (moreover, it is not known which direction it will “fly in”), and pierced heads of drivers (a straightened hook may be the last thing you will see in this life).

And it's not a horror story at all. Never forget your own safety.

Conclusion. It will be useful for all jeeping enthusiasts to learn how to choose a dynamic jerky towing cable. It should not be confused with a regular tow rope, and should not be used instead. It is better to carry both types of cables with you.



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