With some delay, I fulfill my promise to lay out a report on cleaning the crankcase ventilation nozzles at partial loads.
As I wrote earlier, unfortunately, this problem overtakes not only engines (M 111 Evo), as was previously believed, but also more common (), having the commercial designation "230 compressor".
That is, the problem in one way or another concerns all 111 compressor motors.
Fortunately, there are no special problems with its solution, unless you have time to completely ruin the flow meter.
So, the main prerequisite for the actions described below is oiling the flowmeter.
Code P 200B (004) "B2/5 (Hot film mass air flow sensor), Plausibility error Mass air flow sensor/Throttle valve" is stored in the ME control unit. )
Parts required for repair:
(Engine M 111 E23 ML)
intake manifold gasket A 111 141 12 80 - 2 pcs. There are Elring, Goetze and Reinz to choose from. (#38 in the picture)
Check valve of the ventilation system A 111 010 00 91(#122 in the picture)
The top branch pipe of system of ventilation A 002 094 01 82(No. 116 in the figure) is cut into 2 equal parts during installation.
Lower branch pipe of the ventilation system A 111 018 15 82(#113 in the picture)
Fuel rail filter A 000 074 60 86(No. 8 in the picture)
When flushing the oil separator, it is highly recommended to also purchase:
ventilation hose class. lids A 111 018 16 82(#77 in the picture)
Branch pipe from the air filter housing to the oil separator A 111 018 31 82(#80 in the picture)
The intake manifold must be removed to access the injectors.
Consider the least expensive and easiest option - without removing the fuel rail and the need to replace the o-rings of the injectors.
Of course, if you want to separate the fuel rail from the intake manifold, the injector O-rings will need to be replaced with new ones!
BOSCH numbers: 1 280 210 711 or 1 280 210 752, you need 4 things. (#47 in the picture)
First, you need to remove the front decorative plastic cover from the end of the cylinder head and disconnect all electrical connectors and vacuum lines.
The routing of highways and wires is shown in the photo:
If suddenly someone forgot how to properly install the auxiliary drive belt:
We remove the decorative cover that covers the coils and BB wires, disconnect and carefully pull out the harness.
Disconnect the fuel injector electrical connectors and the camshaft position sensor connector.
Then, disconnect the flow meter connector and remove the entire supply air duct assembly - snap off two clamps connecting the flow meter body to the "piping" and unscrew 3 bolts with a 5 mm hexagon socket. from the throttle body. We remove the entire supply air duct assembly.
Of course at the slightest sign of oiling, it is necessary to remove the flow meter and flush it with Air Mass Sensor Cleaner, and the rest of the air duct with gasoline / thinner, etc.
Important!
If there is a large amount of oil in the intake pipe, it is highly recommended to disassemble and flush the whole system- oil separator, both piping and intercooler is the lowest point of the system.
Replace oil separator (A 111 018 03 35) not required - just rinse it thoroughly.
In the context, it is a classic "snail" - there is absolutely nothing to break there.
We continue.
We unscrew the remaining fourth bolt of the throttle housing, disconnect the electrical connector and remove the throttle.
At the slightest hint of contamination and, moreover, soot, the throttle must be thoroughly washed and blown with compressed air!
We remove the intermediate flange, which is fastened with three bolts in the inner. hexagon 6 mm.
We try not to damage the sealing ring A 111 997 04 45 - it is expensive, and it is completely incomprehensible with what fright ...
And it is better to replace the intermediate filter between the flange and the throttle body (A 000 140 27 87) with a new one - fortunately, it is inexpensive.
We unscrew the vacuum pipe (19 mm) and carefully snap off the 3 fasteners of the plastic box of the motor harness.
We wrap the supply and "return" fuel lines (17 mm.)
We take both fuel lines to the side.
We unscrew 2 long E-12 through bolts securing the fuel rail to the cylinder head - they are through, they go through the manifold housing.
We unscrew 7 bolts (13 mm head) securing the intake manifold to the cylinder head.
Carefully remove the intake manifold from the cylinder head.
As they do in the Kebab service - you can spend FSE without removing the collector.
Zilch-zilch dissolver, tyk needle f farsunka, then Ashot smears FSE red sealant, sabir, inshallah - FSE will earn. 5 rubles, 2 hours of work, client Davolen!
We will leave the Perviy path without comment - nevertheless, we will focus on removing the collector.
To do this, it is necessary to disconnect part of the wiring passing between the intake pipes of the 3rd and 4th cylinders - remove the connectors from the knock sensor, crankshaft position sensor, disconnect 2 wires from the starter ( I hope you didn't forget to disconnect the battery) and disconnect the 2 vacuum lines connected to the rear intake manifold near the engine shield.
After that, the manifold can be carefully removed without removing the fuel rail.
Of course, the manifold, as well as the intermediate flange, must be thoroughly rinsed and cleaned of soot and other deposits. If you want to remove and clean the injectors and fuel rail, don't forget to replace all o-rings! During assembly and installation, all rings must be “splashed” with silicone.
If the nozzles of the ventilation system are frequently loads, have such a deplorable appearance as in this photo (a car made in 2000, mileage approx. 215,000 km.), then they must be thoroughly cleaned with various chemicals, a medical syringe and compressed air. The procedure is not quick, but still, it seems to me much safer than repressing new injectors.
You can use various Carb Cleaners, but I personally have long preferred the Shumanit stove cleaner.
After the patency of the holes is fully restored, it is necessary to replace the check valve of the ventilation system and all pipes.
Part numbers are shown above.
Assembly is carried out in the reverse order.
Before fixing the intake manifold, it is necessary to route the wiring harness to the denotation and pos. sensors. crankshaft, connect vacuum lines and starter.
Fuel filter at rail inlet(nipple 17 mm.) must be replaced with a new one!
Before starting, do not forget to reset all adaptations!
Engine crankcase ventilation is not working. Consequences:
Gas pressure rises, problems begin. Oil seals flow, oil zhor, everything is not as it should be. An engine repair is coming, which will require a good penny. The solution is obvious - timely maintenance, or urgent repairs.
Dear friends, hello.
As you guessed, today's topic is Volvo's crankcase ventilation system. And consider the most neglected option that I had after buying a car with good mileage.
Let's go, as they say.
If you use high-quality oil, use good gasoline and perform T.O. in a timely manner, then most likely, all cleaning of the crankcase ventilation will come down to replacing the oil catcher tank (No. 1 in the figure below), checking the cleanliness of the outlets for the nozzles in the engine block, and checking the capacity of the nozzles (the main focus is on the tube at number 8 in the figure below).
If you have a running option, then you will have to sweat to bring the repair to the desired result.
Let's digress a bit. When buying, in my case, the machine was well-groomed, clean beauty, except for one. The oil was poured, by the old master, semi-synthetic and this is in a turbo engine, requiring special attention to oils and cooling. Of course, the old oil was burning, and this was visible right through the filler neck. I immediately switched to synthetic Castrol, recommended by dealers, but unfortunately this oil was not very attractive either, and by the middle of the period between replacements, it burned out significantly, leaving a characteristic reddish coating. I had to give it up...
Let's get back to work.
Drop the intake manifold. We remove the oil separator (replacement), all pipes and check them for throughput.
We examine the holes in the cylinder block, upper and lower.
Pay special attention to the bottom hole. If it is clogged, get ready to remove the pan. Of course, you can clean it that way, but I firmly believe that removing the pan is inevitable, for complete certainty. Removing the pallet has some features, which I will discuss in future articles. Now let's concentrate on what we saw in the pan and engine block. The channel in the engine block from the bottom hole goes at a right angle to the bottom into the pan and is tightly clogged.
The picture of the pallet itself is also not pretty.
We wash everything thoroughly, to a shine. In case of removing the pan, sealant, two oil line rings (Volvo 8642560, 8642559), two oil cooler seals (Volvo 30637339) and accuracy are required. The procedure can take a whole day, so take your time.
The video shows the complete cleaning procedure.
Enjoy watching!
Sincerely, .
Welcome!
In the "classic" this procedure must be done every time before changing the engine oil to a new one, otherwise the crankcase ventilation system in the engine will become clogged, which will lead to a loss of vehicle power. Due to the ingress of dirty air into the engine with particles of emulsion accumulated in the crankcase ventilation hoses, the engine resource is literally reduced. In addition, the gas pressure in the hoses and the engine will increase - oil leaks through the seals will appear.
A very small number of people are worried about cleaning the ventilation, since you came here, it means you are not one of them. We have prepared an interesting article with a detailed description of the cleaning procedure.
Note!
You will need the following tools: a screwdriver, a set of “8”, “10” and “13” wrenches, clean rags, a container for washing parts (hoses, breather, etc.) and kerosene.
When to clean ventilation?
Regularly with a frequency of 15.000-20.000 km of car run.
Note!
It is best to clean the system before each oil change, otherwise the new oil will deteriorate faster due to system contamination.
Regularly pay attention to the engine: is it oiled? When you spot something wrong, start cleaning.
Cleaning on VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107
Withdrawal
Note!
Without fail, remove the flame arrester from the crankcase ventilation hose and wash it with kerosene in case of severe contamination.
2. Loosen the clamp securing the additional hose to the breather cap (indicated by the red arrow) and disconnect the additional hose from it. Proceed to loosen the main hose clamp (indicated by the blue arrow) and disconnect it from the cap.
3. Remove the engine oil dipstick.
4. Turn away a bolt of fastening of a cover of a breather and remove a cover from the car engine.
5. Dampen a cloth with kerosene and wipe the inside of the oil separator.
Note!
Be careful when wiping, do not drop dirt particles inside the engine. If it is inconvenient for you to clean off the dirt on the installed oil separator, remove it from the car by unscrewing the fastening nut (indicated by the red arrow). Place the removed oil separator in a prepared container with kerosene.
6. Clean the surface of the air filter from dirt by wiping it with a cloth soaked in kerosene.
Note!
Remove the sealing gasket from the filter housing and clean it of dirt.
Installation
Produced in the reverse order of removal.
Note!
Replace torn or cracked gaskets with new ones. Check that metal bushings are inserted into the gasket of the air filter housing (shown in the photo).
For newbies!
Question: What does the complete oil separator look like?
Answer: in the photo.
If the crankcase ventilation system is not cleaned in a timely manner, clogging can lead to an increase in pressure due to gases that partially enter there.
Maintenance of the crankcase ventilation system of the VAZ 2110 engine is associated with ensuring the normal functioning of the car engine cylinder block, necessary for burning gases. The accumulation of resinous deposits that appear during some time of operation of the machine, formed by crankcase gases, prevents the removal of gases through the oil separator into the cylinders, in the head cover of which it is located. As a result, there is an increase in gas pressure in the engine system and subsequent oil leakage through the seals, that is, gaskets and seals. In order to prevent these consequences, it is required to clean and flush the engine ventilation system when this need occurs.
The manufacturer recommends that the procedure for cleaning the crankcase ventilation system every 30-60 thousand kilometers of the vehicle run is mandatory before changing the oil. Such a schedule is preferable to waiting for problems with the car to start.
The sequence of actions when cleaning the crankcase ventilation system of the VAZ 2110 engine should provide for the strict implementation of the following procedures.
2. Removing the washers after removal by unscrewing the long (1) and short (2) oil separator mounting bolts located on the inside of the head cover.
3. Removing the oil separator housing.
4. Removing the mesh package located in the cylinder head cover.
5. Thorough flushing of the screen, oil separator housing and block head cover using kerosene, which requires utmost care so that kerosene does not end up in the engine crankcase. If this happens, then you should change the oil in it.
6. Ensuring the same orientation of the grids in the package by turning them with the subsequent installation of the package in the cover so that on one side it abuts against its protrusions, and on the other, a hole is visible provided for the bolt for attaching the oil separator housing. Establish the case of an oil separator and tighten bolts of its fastening.
7. At the last stage, it is required to check the condition of the gaskets of the crankcase ventilation system cover, with their subsequent replacement if necessary. Next, put the cover back on the cylinder head.
Next, you can watch a video on how to fix the problem of throwing oil into the receiver.
Using a regular dish grater can significantly reduce oil consumption. The procedure was carried out on a Daewoo Sens car:
Video about crankcase gases, methods for their elimination, dmrv:
The principle of operation of internal combustion engines is based on the combustion of a mixture of hydrocarbon fuel and atmospheric air in a closed volume. Due to the thermal expansion of this volume, useful work is performed. If the supply of a combustible mixture and the removal of exhaust products are technically organized processes, then the penetration of exhaust gases into the mechanical part of the engine is a by-product, for the removal of which there is an engine crankcase ventilation system.
These excess gases are also called crankcase gases, but why they need to be removed and how crankcase ventilation works, and we will try to figure it out further.
Device and principle of operation
Crankcase ventilation systems for different types of internal combustion engines have a slightly different device, but they all necessarily consist of several main parts and assemblies, such as:
- air pipes;
- ventilation valve, the purpose of which is the intensity of suction of gases depending on the force of vacuum in the intake manifold;
- oil separator.
Moreover, regardless of the type of engine, forced ventilation is designed so that its circuit has two parts:
- small branch;
- big branch.
The first - selects gases from under the valve cover, the second - removes unwanted exhaust directly from the crankcase.
The principle of operation of the crankcase exhaust system for a carburetor, injection and diesel engine can also differ significantly, but the whole process can be described by the following sequence:
- Exhaust gas intake from the engine crankcase;
- Purification of these side gases in the oil separator from oil vapors and other mechanical products of combustion;
- Transfer of already purified gas through the air pipes to the intake manifold structure;
- Mixing crankcase gases with the prepared combustible mixture and its combustion in the working cylinders.
Due to the possibility of getting a certain volume of gas into a constant circulation from point 1 to point 4 and the use of part of the exhaust gases technologically for the preparation of the fuel mixture, the selection of exhaust gases from the engine crankcase is also called the exhaust gas recirculation system.
Possible malfunctions, their diagnosis
Crankcase ventilation problems, as a rule, are not obvious, but until some part of the exhaust air duct is completely clogged, such as: a fitting, a rubber hose, part of the internal space of the oil separator or the valve mechanism itself.
Such a fatal malfunction will cause a frankly poorly functioning engine, or due to increased internal pressure, it will simply squeeze out oil through the rubber gaskets of the oil pan and valve cover. In this case, even a simple flushing of the oil separator and valve will not solve the problem in the same way as a complete cleaning of the crankcase ventilation system will be required.
However, before the crankcase ventilation elements are completely clogged, the following symptoms must necessarily begin to appear:
- gradual reduction in engine power;
- a slight increase in fuel consumption, especially in the urban cycle;
- failures in the accelerator pedal;
- the appearance of oil leakage on the gaskets and cuffs of the engine housing.
Methods for removing blockages and cleaning ventilation
If the above symptoms appear, first of all, the elements of the oil separator and valve, as well as all the parts located there, are checked for various secondary deposits from combustion products. Even if, in your opinion, everything is in order there and there seems to be no need to clean it, then in any case, clean at least the oil separator from the oil located there, this is especially true for a diesel engine.
