What oil filter vaz 2112. Oil filter car vaz

What oil filter vaz 2112. Oil filter car vaz

27.09.2019

After all, the engine has its own brains - a controller, its own nervous system - an electrician, a heart - cylinders, blood - engine oil. There are no only reproductive organs, which is a pity ... But on the other hand, the engine also has its own liver, that is, an organ that serves to cleanse the body: a kind of dump, a garbage dump! This is an oil filter. And, fortunately, it can and should be changed at each oil change - the engine does not need "liver cirrhosis"!

The choice is huge: imported and ours, small and large, expensive and cheap ... For our new examination of the "eight-ten" VAZ filters, we easily bought 24 types of these products in Moscow stores - two pieces of each type. The tests were carried out at the department of internal combustion engines of the St. Petersburg State Polytechnic University.

We have raised the topic of “cleaning manager” more than once - we measured the area of ​​the filtering surface, estimated the nominal fineness of screenings ... But if all previous examinations were based on the Gost test procedure, now it’s time to compare how filters work in real conditions, that is, directly on engine as an element of the lubrication system. We've never done this before!

WITHOUT A PAPER YOU ...

What did we check and how?

To begin with, we satisfy curiosity: what's inside? It was no coincidence that we took two filters each ... To do this, carefully, on a lathe, cut off the bottom, pull out the “offal” and admire them. Well, the body is one piece, the valves are two pieces (bypass and return), the filter element is also one. There is, however, "Superfilter Kolan", where there are even two of them, but this is exotic.

There are relatively few filter element designs - usually it is a cassette filled with corrugated filter paper. The filtration area is very important, as it largely determines the life of the filter. Interestingly, this area varies more than two and a half times from filter to filter. For example, for "Champion" it is more than 1300 cm2, while for "Citron" it only slightly exceeds 500 cm2. The number of pleats varies from 54 to 85 - even for filters of similar sizes. For some, the corrugation step is uniform, for others it is empty somewhere, and somewhere it is so dense that you cannot even find a gap between the corrugations. It would seem - well, okay, the area does not change? Ha ha: try blowing a single sheet of paper, and then a stack of it. Why would this oil take the path of greatest resistance, where the corrugations simply formed? So it turns out that the real, active filtration area depends on the quality and uniformity of the pleating. And it says a lot about the production technology. It goes without saying that in the final assessment we will definitely take into account the quality of the paper structure.

From paper to valves: bypass and return. The task of the first is to track the moment of critical contamination of the filter and prevent the engine from dying from oil drought: dirty oil is better than none. It works according to an elementary principle: when the filter becomes dirty, the pressure in front of it increases, and behind it it drops. The valve opens slightly, and part of the oil passes uncleaned, but the pressure behind the filter, that is, in the oil system, increases.

And here is the question: what should be the opening force of the bypass valve? There are filters - for example, Tsitron Raider, where an increased opening force is declared as a distinctive feature. Say, at peak pressures at a cold start, the valve does not let dirty oil into the engine. Is it good - how can it be without oil? On the other hand, this effort should not be small either - otherwise dirty oil will immediately rush into the engine. So what is right? There is no official answer to this, so we took the average value for the entire sample as the norm.

With a check valve, everything is easier. Its task is to keep the oil in the filter when the engine is stopped. The less oil in the case, the longer the oil pressure lamp does not go out during start-up - not good! We evaluated the quality of its work by the loss of oil for a fixed time, starting from the same state of the engine. That is, the engine was stopped, and after 30 minutes they measured it - how much oil was left in the filter?

And now - the most interesting. In standard tests, the filtering ability is evaluated on special installations, and the oil is contaminated with special dust. But in the engine, everything is not so! Firstly, the air filter must filter dust, and the oil filter mainly works on wear products, that is, on metals. Secondly, a real filter operates under conditions of significantly variable oil pressures and temperatures. And this, obviously, should affect the quality of oil purification. And most of all we need to know how different filters will behave on the same engine, the same oil - and how will this affect the engine itself? Feel the difference?

The tests were carried out on a VAZ 2108 3 engine installed on a load device that allows it to operate in any mode - from idle to "nominal". Of course, the “motor winding” program was identical for all filters. Oil - also from the "one barrel", and not even allegorically. And as the same wear products, we used a strictly metered amount of aluminum powder - an analogue of real wear products, each time using the engine flushing procedure tested in advance. It is also important that we tested the filtration quality under real engine operating conditions! Both the viscosity of the oil and its pumpability through the porous structure of the paper depend on the temperature! And the quality of filtration was evaluated by spectral analysis of samples of contaminated oil ...

By the way, how do various filters affect the oil pressure in the engine lubrication system? As far as we know, no one has received this information yet! Instead of an oil pressure sensor, we embedded an accurate laboratory pressure gauge, and put a thermocouple in the pan to take measurements at exactly the same oil temperature. Looking ahead, we note that, depending on the filter, the difference in pressure, for example, in the 4000 rpm mode, was between the best and worst sample as much as 0.7 atm, that is, 25%! This picture has been preserved in other regimes. At the same time, it turns out that the oil system does not seem to notice the best filters in this parameter (Sintech, AC Delco), although the filtration quality remains quite normal, but the worst ones, such as Olefant, are like a blood clot! And this is fraught with "hypertension" for the entire engine.

In general, welcome to the final table. We chose the weighting coefficients based on the importance of the parameter: first of all - the ability to clean, the last - the appearance and operation of the valves. Study please!

NOT ALL FILTERS ARE EQUALLY USEFUL!

Standards are standards, not all filters are the same! After all, you won’t recommend, for example, “Citron”, which effectively extinguishes pressure in the oil system, on an old “VAZ” that lives out its life before a major overhaul - it’s not easy for him anyway. And with a low viscosity of oil in the summer, it is also undesirable to use it. You may not kill the engine, but a flashing oil pressure light will be very annoying.

An interesting option is the use of synthetics with a declared service life of thirty thousand kilometers. By the way, this is a separate question - where did these figures come from? Sometimes you start to suspect that - from the ceiling! Even if so, the main thing is that in this case, it is also impractical to use low-resource filters. After all, it would never occur to anyone to change several filters between oil changes.

As for the price-quality ratio, it is mostly justified. Let's say Champion and Bosch are worth their money. Pleased with some domestic filters - both "Nevsky filter" and "Livny". The “Our opinion” given under each of the photos can be considered as an “advisory” voice when choosing a worthy cure for “liver cirrhosis” of the VAZ engine. And to listen to it or not is a matter of trust to us readers.

Self-changing oil in a VAZ 2114 engine and which one is better to fill?

Changing the oil is one of the most common services used by service station customers. But in practice, the procedure is not difficult, because many do not want to pay the masters, because they themselves do this work.

Today we will tell you more about changing the oil in the VAZ 2114 engine, tell you about the frequency of this event, the features of choosing oil and much more.

Replacement frequency. Influencing factors

First of all, the oil change in the VAZ 2114 engine is carried out based on the mileage that the car has passed. Each car owner decides for himself when it is time for him to replace the lubricant. But the experience of the owners of the "fourteenth" model, as well as the recommendations of experts, suggest that it is better to change the oil approximately every 10-15 thousand kilometers .

There are a number of factors that can affect the frequency of replacement:

  • The current state of the car;
  • Engine wear level;
  • The quality of the previously used lubricant for the power unit;
  • The conditions in which the car is operated;
  • Seasonality of car operation;
  • Driving style.

The level of car wear in winter is much higher than in summer. Therefore, the optimal solution is a seasonal oil change. This is confirmed by the manufacturers of motor oils themselves, who offer a range of special summer and winter fluids.

If you have just purchased a used VAZ 2114, the oil should be changed immediately for two objective reasons:

  1. You don't know exactly how long the car has been running with oil in the crankcase;
  2. You don't know what kind of oil is currently being used. Mixing different lubricating fluids is the most ridiculous mistake you can make.

Before filling in new grease, it is recommended to use the so-called five-minute flush. This will remove the soot. Do not get carried away with such activities, as it has been proven in practice that flushes spoil the engine.

Many people believe that the less often they operate the car, the longer you can not change the oil. Serious mistake. This is explained by the fact that when the car is idle for a long time in the garage, condensate accumulates inside the car, which eventually enters the engine crankcase with lubricant. This aggressive environment has a detrimental effect on the lubrication system of engine elements.

Choosing an oil

According to the instruction manual for the VAZ 2114, for this model it is recommended to use semi-synthetic engine oil, the viscosity of which is 10W-30. So you will be able to decide which oil to fill in your VAZ 2114. Choosing oils from leading manufacturers is not a requirement. But this is a recommendation based on detailed analysis. Practice shows that it is high-quality lubricated fluids that interact best with VAZ 2114 engines.

Market analysis and a survey of owners of the "fourteenth" model show that the main demand is now observed for several types of oils from leading manufacturers. However, they have different temperature ranges. To determine the choice of this parameter, we offer for review the corresponding table.

Minimum engine cold start temperature, °С

Viscosity class according to SAE J 300

Maximum ambient temperature, °С

Replacement steps

Now let's talk directly about how the oil is changed in the VAZ 2114 engine.

To work on draining the old fluid and filling in new grease, you will need a certain set of tools, which includes:

  • New engine oil that meets the requirements of the car;
  • New oil filter;
  • Dry rags that do not leave lint and threads;
  • Container for old oil;
  • Wrench 17 mm.

Draining used oil

  1. The car is placed on a viewing hole. You will need to get under the bottom.
  2. Let the engine run a little to allow the lubricant to warm up. Due to this, it will merge faster and more fully from the crankcase.
  3. Open the filler cap located on the valve box. This will provide pressure relief.
  4. Now climb under the car, taking the key to 17 with you.
  5. It is advisable to choose a socket wrench, since drain plugs are usually tightly tightened. Using a ring wrench may cause you to lie on the edges. It is better not to allow this, because you will have to change the cork.
  6. Place a container with a volume of about 5 liters from below. Make sure that the jet of escaping oil does not fall on you. It is hot, plus not every wife wants to wash oil stains, and not every washing machine will be able to.
  7. After unscrewing the plug on the oil pan, let the oil drain into the prepared container. Do not rush to immediately completely unscrew the cork. Gradually twist it until oil starts to flow. After that, feel free to remove it completely. Not infrequently, it falls into a container for collecting waste fluid. It's okay, it happens to a lot of people. Retrieving it later won't be a problem.
  8. Be more careful in the first couple, because due to a warm engine, the oil can not only be hot, but also come out under pressure.
  9. The process of decanting the oil will take about 10 minutes. If you decide not to warm up the engine, then you will have to wait even longer.
  10. Be sure to remove the old oil filter on the VAZ 2114, which is located at the rear on the passenger side. It is usually easily extracted by hand, but sometimes it does not lend itself easily. Use a special key.
  11. When there is no key to remove the filter either, insert a screwdriver into the housing. Using it as a lever, the oil filter is eventually removed. But this is an extreme measure, which is still not recommended.
  12. Make sure the old filter gasket comes out as well. If it remains in its seat, remove it. Be sure to use a new gasket for a new filter. Often they come as a set.
  13. About 100-200 milliliters of clean new oil is poured into the new filter, and the rubber gasket is also treated with lubricating fluid.
  14. Insert it into its rightful place and screw it on. The filter is screwed on until the gasket comes into contact with the surface. After that, more than 3/4 of a turn is not necessary. This installation option is enough for the filter to hold firmly.
  15. Plug the drain hole in the oil pan.
  16. Perform flushing if necessary.

Now it remains only to fill in new oil. For this:

  • Head to the neck located on the cover of the valve box. That is, now you are already working directly in the engine compartment. It's time to get out of the hole;
  • To make it more convenient to pour liquid into the engine from the oil container, use a small funnel;
  • First fill in approximately 2.7 liters of oil;
  • To add it or not, you can check with a dipstick;
  • Wait a while for the oil to settle;
  • Now take the dipstick and check the level. Ideally, the oil should be at a level between the Max and Min marks indicated on the dipstick. At the same time, many are interested in how much oil to fill in the VAZ 2114 engine. We will answer. It takes about 3.8 liters of lubricant. Plus, you will need about 200 milliliters more for the filter. Although some argue that 100 milliliters is enough;
  • The filler cap is closed;
  • After that, be sure to start the engine and let it run for a while. This will allow the new oil to be distributed throughout the system;
  • Stop the engine, let the car stand for a while;
  • Now check the level again with the dipstick. If necessary, add fluid to the optimum level;
  • It is not worth pouring the entire canister at once, as this may turn out to be too much. It is not possible to get rid of all the old oil, because some will still remain inside. Therefore, this affects the total amount of new fluid being poured;
  • Be sure to wipe off any drops of oil that remain on the engine. This must be done for security purposes.

Everything, the procedure is completed. Now you can compare how much it cost to change the oil yourself, and how much the nearest service stations require. You will be pleasantly surprised and continue the practice of self-changing the lubricant for the engine of your VAZ 2114.

Since Soviet times, when cars were bought once and for all after a long period of accumulating funds for their purchase, Russian motorists have developed a special attitude towards a four-wheeled assistant. If for a rich foreigner a car is just a set of pieces of iron that you can throw away without regret in case of a breakdown and buy new ones for yourself, then for our drivers a car is a living organism that requires special care and attention. Auto-veterans, who were bought in these Soviet times, require the most care. Their owners, like no one else, know how much work needs to be done so that the car does not fail on the road.

Characteristics and selection of the oil filter

The VAZ oil filter performs the function of cleaning, as a kind of barrier that prevents the ingress of slags that can harm the car. VAZ oil filters are easy to replace, and this opportunity should not be neglected. You can choose an oil filter for every taste, color and wealth: domestic and imported, cheap and expensive, simple and sophisticated ...

Which filter to purchase for your car should be approached carefully and slowly. After all, in addition to cleaning engine oil, it affects the cooling of the engine, and also takes part in the sound insulation of piston rings. First of all, you should know that VAZ oil filters are supplied in two main versions: filter insert and filter assembly.

The first option is preferable. Firstly, it is cheaper, and secondly, it has a simple, reliable design and ease of installation. According to the filtering method, they are:

  • full-flow;
  • partial flow;
  • mixed.

The variety of oil filter manufacturers is not always in the hands of consumers. Some of them throw on the market goods of inadequate quality, which are not suitable for operation. Therefore, you should turn to long-established manufacturers, for example, MANN or Knecht.

The MANN filter is suitable for all VAZ models. The only trouble that can happen when buying it is fakes, of which there are a great many on the market.

In order not to run into a snag, you need to know the primary signs by which you can distinguish the original item from a fake. First of all, you should pay attention to the packaging. There can be no spelling errors on the original, the inscriptions must be printed clearly and with high-quality paint, without streaks.

The poor quality of the packaging hints at the fact that the product belongs to fakes. Filter marking is obligatory and is burned out by laser. Unscrupulous manufacturers do not have such expensive production elements, so they produce their filters without markings. The threads and holes of a quality filter are polished to a shine, and a fake is likely to be burrs and bumps.

Overview of fault causes


The oil supply system in VAZ vehicles to a large extent affects the durability of the engine. Its important element is the oil pressure sensor, which allows you to diagnose and fix problems in time. The owners of old cars, for example, the VAZ 2101, which is living out its life before a major overhaul, have to especially carefully control the oil pressure.

An oil pressure sensor is a device that detects mechanical force and then converts it into an electrical signal of the appropriate voltage. The decoding of the signals allows you to control the oil pressure in real time. The car can inform the driver about the pressure drop in different ways.

Modern expensive cars are equipped with a special scale and an on-board computer, according to which the owner can not only control the pressure, but also improve engine performance. Owners of a VAZ 2101 or VAZ 2108 will recognize problems by the pictogram light bulb, which lights up in the event of a malfunction in the oil supply system. Also on domestic cars you can find arrow indicators.

A decrease in VAZ oil pressure may be due to a breakdown of the oil pump or a decrease in the amount of oil in the system. The lack of lubrication entails increased wear of engine parts and, consequently, its early failure. Too high pressure may indicate a blockage in the system, for example, a pressure reducing valve clogged with wear products or blockage of oil channels.

If the VAZ 2101 has an emergency light on, then first of all you should check the level of the filled oil, the pump is in good condition, and there are leaks. If the oil supply system of the car is working, you should check the performance of the sensor itself.

It will not be difficult to find a measuring element: in the VAZ 2108 (2109, 21099) models, it is located on the cylinder head next to the oil filter. The design of the device is quite simple and consists of a transmission mechanism and a membrane sealed in a metal case. The diaphragm flexes under oil pressure. These vibrations affect electrical contacts, closing and opening them.


The surest way to determine if the sensor is working is to install a pressure gauge in its place. Normal readings of VAZ oil pressure with the engine running at idle start from a division of 0.65 kgf / cm². If the control readings are as follows, then the pressure sensor should be replaced. There are situations when the pressure gauge was not at hand at the right time, for example, on the way.

For such cases, there is an easier way to determine the health of the sensor. The check must be carried out with the engine turned off. After the oil pressure sensor is removed, the assistant turns the starter. If oil comes out of the hole where the sensor was located, then the device is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Valve stem seals

Replacing VAZ valve stem seals is one of the ways to optimize engine performance if any problems have begun with its lubrication (increased consumption, blue exhaust). Oil seals prevent excess oil from entering the engine. They should fit snugly against the valve and let through just enough oil to lubricate the parts.

Caps are made of rubberized material, which eventually ages and collapses. As a rule, valve stem seals on domestic-made cars, such as the VAZ 2101 or VAZ 2108, “run” about 20 thousand km, newer models can increase their lifespan by 2-3 times.

The algorithm for replacing caps is described in detail in any technical manual. With the necessary experience and tools, the procedure can be carried out independently. For a skilled person, it will be no more difficult than replacing the clutch cable. If there are no car repair skills, then it is better to turn to professionals; replacement of caps is not so expensive procedure, so it is quite reasonable to entrust it to the masters.

When self-maintaining a VAZ 2114 or VAZ 2115 car, you will inevitably encounter the fact that you will need to change the oil and oil filter. This is a fairly common maintenance operation for any car. To begin with, you should decide on the choice of the oil itself that you will fill in your car, we wrote about this in more detail, here in this one.

- key to "17"

- funnel

- rag

- now you can pour new oil into the engine, while you should control its level on the dipstick, ideally the oil level should be between the marks MIN and MAX .

- after the oil is filled, the oil filler cap should be replaced.

Well, that's all the oil is filled in, I think you yourself understand that it was not so difficult to do, and you can do it yourself.

When self-maintaining a VAZ 2114 or VAZ 2115 car, you will inevitably encounter the fact that you will need to change the oil and oil filter. This is a fairly common maintenance operation for any car. To begin with, you should decide on the choice of the oil itself that you will fill in your car, we wrote about this in more detail, here in this article.

Necessary tool for changing engine oil and oil filter:

- key to "17"

- a special wrench for unscrewing the oil filter

- funnel

- rag

- container for draining used oil

It should be noted that it is better to drain the oils on a warm car, this will allow you to remove the old oil from the engine as much as possible, and any small abrasive particles that may remain at the bottom will also be removed in the place with the oil.

Well, let's start changing the oil on a VAZ 2114, 2115 car

- the first step is to install the car on a pit or lift

- now open the hood and unscrew the oil filler cap

- substituting a previously prepared container for used oil under the drain plug, unscrew it. Draining the old oil from the engine.

- now when a little time has passed and all the oil has been removed, screw the drain plug back into place

- now you should unscrew the oil filter, it will be more convenient to do this with a special key, if there is none, then you can try it with your hands.

- before replacing the old oil filter with a new one, it should be filled up to half with new oil, while lubricating the sealing ring with oil.

- screw the new filter by hand, without any tool.

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