The body is perhaps the most vulnerable external part of the car, which is threatened by all sorts of stains and stains.
The paintwork only at first glance is a monolithic protection for iron. In fact, it has the smallest pores and microcracks, and ordinary stains, such as tree sap, poplar bud resin, insect traces, are rather aggressive chemical compounds that, penetrating into the paint, change its color.
Rule number 1: remove stains as quickly as possible, and do not drive with them before visiting the car wash.
If some types of organics, for example bird droppings or a broken fly, while fresh, are removed even plain water, then with resinous spots the situation is more complicated, and you will need a special preparation.
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Rule #2: Always carry a chemical cleaner with you
The natural question is: which one? Almost all cleansing preparations consist of two main components - a solvent and surface-active substances (surfactants). The first is often isopropyl alcohol (or other alcohols), and the set detergents depends on the characteristics of the spot. Sometimes, for ingrained old pollution, a special selection of components is required. Therefore, cleaners, in turn, are of two types - universal and specialized (from traces of kidneys, insects, tar, etc.). 
The most versatile body cleaner we would call ... glass cleaning solution. Not the one in the washer reservoir, but produced in separate bottles. The selection of chemicals in it is not very different from universal preparations for the body, because the same flies, birds and kidneys create problems ... The reverse is also true - many universal preparations for the body do an excellent job with traces on glass. But there is still a difference: high-quality solutions for the body are more sensitive to paint, they penetrate better into the pores.
Specialized products are designed for particularly stubborn stains, especially old ones. If your yard is planted with poplars, then you should purchase a separate preparation, and if someone constantly feeds pigeons under these trees, then another one ...
Rule 3: the choice of cleaners depends on the specific conditions at the parking lot and along the usual routes
And if you didn’t have time to clean the stain? You never know, business trip, vacation, weekend... Then polishing compounds will come to the rescue. They are of two types: chemical and abrasive, sometimes these approaches are combined in one preparation. Chemicals fight pollution, dissolving them, along the way they flow into microcracks, leveling the surface and masking defects. Abrasive polishing compounds remove the stain radically, removing a thin layer of paint or varnish. It’s not worth being scared and drawing analogies with sandpaper, even with paste high degree In terms of efficiency, the abrasive particles are so small that you can't feel them with your fingers, and for a “thin” polish, the thickness of the layer to be removed is literally measured in microns. At the same time, light-reflecting micro-scratches are removed, and the surface becomes like new - smooth and shiny. It would seem good, but keep in mind that if the entire body has faded from time to time, then the updated area may stand out noticeably. It is better to use special polishes for a specific type of paintwork, for example, metallic paints.
Rule 4: when working with abrasive compounds, the principle “from fine to coarse” applies
Switch to a more aggressive composition only if the “gentle” remedy did not help. 
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Rule 5: the quality of processing depends not only on auto chemicals, but also on paper and cloth napkins
If you are already used to carrying a cleaner with you, then, hopefully, suitable means for processing you have - you will not use your favorite handkerchief. A good option– store a paper towel roll in the machine. For polishing, it is preferable to use a special cloth that has a small nap and slides easily over the surface.
Despite significant progress in the field of alarms and anti-theft devices, cars continue to be stolen and simply taken away. ABOUT anti-theft devices we will talk later, but for now - just a few tips regarding the behavior of the driver of a potentially stolen car. After all, often he himself, with his “lohovsky” behavior, simply provokes theft own car and contributes to it in every possible way. Let's look at a few typical situations that should be avoided.
1. Never trust car or garage keys to strangers or strangers. Making a cast from them is a matter of a few seconds. And even if the car has both an alarm and an immobilizer, unimpeded entry into the garage and the car significantly increases the chances of the hijacker and saves him time.
2. Never leave the car open and the keys in the ignition. Even if you only go for a couple of minutes and go a few meters, and even if there seems to be no one around. This “someone” can appear at any moment, and if your car is already “herded” (which you hardly know about), you have no chance.
3. Do not keep documents, spare keys and alarm fobs in the car. And in case of theft or expropriation, you will have to spend some time to prove that you are the owner of this car.
4. Do not leave the car in those places where you explicitly let the criminals know how long you will be absent. For example, at the theater, cinema, supermarkets, etc. To drive up to the very entrance, of course, is “cool”, but by doing so you show that you will definitely not return to the car for 2-3 hours. Even in the parking lot of the supermarket, where it would seem that you can appear at any moment, the criminal has enough large stock time. Especially on a weekend, when there are long queues at the box office and the most trifling purchase will take you at least half an hour. The banal theft of keys from the owner is also practiced. This is not difficult to do, especially in the store crowd. So keep your documents and keys in the inside pockets.
5. If you are seating fellow travelers with you, try not to fulfill their requests, even if “Miss World” has sat down with you. Do not drink the drinks or treats they offer, even from sealed jars and bottles. They can easily contain sleeping pills, clafelin, etc. Do not stop at the request of a fellow traveler exactly in the place where he asks - there may be an “ambush” and an accomplice will jump out from behind a corner, tree, bush, stop. It will be better if you drive ahead, several tens of meters, pretending that you did not hear, thought, etc. If you are not enough, then he can stand in front of the car and you will not crush him. Do not pick up "acquaintances" of the fellow traveler, "suddenly" met along the way.
6. Before driving, inspect the car from all sides. Otherwise, the driver may hear “Hey! Man! At your place rear number fall off now! The wheel is off! Oil is flowing! The trunk is open! Ran into a cat!" etc. The fantasy of criminals is simply limitless. The driver immediately slows down, the car is wide open, the engine is running ... Therefore, before driving, just inspect the perimeter of the car and make sure everything is in order.
7. Immediately after landing, lock all vehicle doors. Talk to strangers through a slightly lowered glass and look in all the mirrors. It is not uncommon for one accomplice to distract you with a conversation “how to get to the library”, the second pierces your wheel, scratches the glass, or simply opens your back door. What would again force you out of the car or just distract, lull vigilance and just throw you out of the cabin.
8. Criminals often stage or provoke conflict situations in order to force a person to leave the car, leaving keys and documents in it. For example, another car arrives at the gas station at the same time as you, or even a little later. The person from it runs to the checkout before you, or simply pushes, splashes you with water from a puddle, etc. Those. provokes conflict. Its task is to divert your attention and hold you for a couple of minutes. And if you also left the keys in the car, your car only blinks your brake lights. And you can't show anything to this accomplice. They just brought him up, he doesn’t know anyone, he didn’t beat you, but simply held you by the breasts, or in general with the “corps” and that’s because you yourself were the first to start.
The same thing can happen on the road, while driving. You may be accused that over there you hurt someone, crushed, cut, etc. and "need to figure it out". Never get involved in such squabbles. Make it clear that you are ready to give way to the ticket office, keep your distance, and if your opponent persists, immediately lock yourself in the car, call the police and film everything on your mobile phone. If you have a weapon - demonstrate it, but do not rush to use it. Rimbaud wins quickly only in the movies, but here you will act against a group of trained criminals. Otherwise, you risk breaking the law. And if this is really a domestic conflict, then in a few minutes you will forget about it. Therefore, do not be heroic in vain. Especially if you are not 110% sure.
9. Do not show criminals all the "degrees of protection" of your car. Often the owner glues a sticker on the glass from the alarm. First, it's just stupid advertising. Secondly, the criminal will tell you “thank you for warning me, I will know what to break, I already know her weak spots". Do not show anyone what type of alarm you have installed and do not talk about other "secrets". That's why they are secrets, so that only the owner of the car would know about them.
Another interesting moment for the criminal is the behavior of the driver when setting or removing the car from the alarm. As a rule, a kind of self-satisfied "pot-bellied" or "auto-lady" picturesquely stretches her hand with a key fob towards the car and presses the "biggest button". Well, exactly the same as it works with the TV remote control. And the criminal can understand that this person does not understand at all what he is dealing with. He, like a monkey, was taught to press the "big button" - he presses it. He does not use any additional and special functions of his alarm system, but simply uses it to close and open doors. And it’s good if the alarm installers were conscientious and installed it properly, and not just to control the central lock.
Therefore, for such lovers of such theatrical gestures, I inform you that the alarm uses RADIO (and not IR, like a TV remote control) waves to communicate with the key fob. And it will work even when you press it in your pocket, at the very last moment, when you have already approached the car and made sure that there are no suspicious strangers nearby. Therefore, it is not necessary to unlock the car in advance. Like reaching out to him. And be sure to choose the time, carefully study the instructions for your alarm. I am sure you will discover a lot of new things in terms of additional protective functions.
I hope that these simple and easy to follow tips will allow you to keep your car in your property for as long as you want.
Instruction
First, before you make your new “horse” work seriously, you need to lay a margin of durability in the body parts. It is known that any factory coating of the body does not give a 100% guarantee that rust spots will not appear over time. It `s naturally. After all, the operating conditions cannot be called greenhouse - it is hot in summer,. They correspond to precipitation -, snow, etc. That is why it is necessary to protect from the impact environment the most vulnerable parts of the car are the bottom of the body, fenders, rubber, chrome trim parts. The processes of metal oxidation go faster, the less closed and protected it is. It is important, not allowing the aging of the factory coating of the bottom and wings, to make additional protection. To do this, cover the body parts with another protective layer.
In Russia, the Movil coating has been used for a long time and deserves all respect. To enhance its protective properties in places that are especially subject to mechanical stress (impacts of stones from under the wheels, sand, dirt), install protective shields made of plastic. They will save the wings and bottom from mechanical damage.
In addition to Movil, there are many protective coatings, mastic imported production. When choosing them, consider the possibility of working in our climatic conditions. Pay special attention to the following properties:
The ability not to lose protective properties in hot summer conditions (not to soften from the heat);
Ability to not crack or break low temperatures in winter;
Possessing high wear resistance mechanical action(gravel, stones, sand, etc.).
To save appearance vehicle is affected by seasonal operating conditions. In the transitional season (autumn - winter, winter - spring), it is desirable to limit the time of operation of the car if possible. Moisture, getting into the microcracks of the coating of the body and the bottom of the car during the day, freezes overnight and thereby causes their increase.
Consider the peculiarities of operating the car in summer and winter period s.
In summer, if possible, protect the body of the car from direct sunlight. For long-term parking, it is advisable to use a platform covered with an awning, or to put a cover made of thick fabric on the car. If this is not possible, put it in the shade of trees or houses.
Winter is the most difficult period of car operation and therefore the attitude to its use during this period should be sparing. At night, it is advisable to put the car in the garage. Even if it is not heated (cold), the air temperature inside is 5-7 degrees higher than outside. If the floor in the garage is made of concrete, it is advisable to lay wooden flooring under the wheels for the winter. Rinse frequently undercarriage, wheels from reagents for cleaning pavement from ice with mandatory drying.
Sources:
- how to save a car
Winter is definitely not the easiest period for a car. Most motorists know that driving a car in the winter is undesirable. If you are not going to drive a car in winter, do not rush to relax, because in order to prepare it for wintering, you have to take a little trouble.
Instruction
First of all, you need a parking space. Try to find a flat place where puddles will not appear. If you plan to put it in a paid parking lot, then make sure that it is clearly visible to the guards. If it will stand in the garage, it is necessary to provide good ventilation premises.
Next, wash and dry the body well and. Make sure all dirt is completely removed. After that, treat the body with an anti-corrosion agent, especially in places where rust is already visible. Don't forget the most vulnerabilities– thresholds, internal surfaces of doors, internal beams and spars.
Lubricate all parts that work in some kind of mechanism (hinges of the trunk, hood, doors, etc.)
Pour full tank gasoline - this will help protect the inside of the tank from condensation and corrosion.
Put the car on stands. This will help unload the springs, tires and suspension springs. Let some of the air out of the tires to reduce the pressure in them.
If there is no air conditioning in the car, then it is recommended to remove the battery and store it on the balcony, periodically checking its charge and, in which case, recharge it. If there is air conditioning, then the battery does not need to be removed. It is only necessary to periodically check the operation of the air conditioner.
note
The engine must be started periodically and driven at least around the yard, since long parking harmful to brake system and pendants.
Do not use tarpaulin covers to protect the car from precipitation - moisture remains under them for a long time, which accelerates corrosion.
The cover should not come into contact with the surface of the body - this can ruin the color.
When storing the car in the garage, it is advisable to leave the trunk lid and doors ajar to give freedom rubber seals and prevent them from collapsing.
If you plan to travel in winter, do not apply the handbrake to the vehicle, as brake pads can freeze and leave only in the spring.
The battery in the winter requires a special approach. Caring for the battery in winter depends on the conditions of storage and the intensity of use of the car.
Disconnect the minus terminal on the battery if the car is in the garage all winter. For a period of severe cold, remove the battery and place it in a room where the temperature is higher than outside. Do not drain the electrolyte, otherwise the battery will be damaged.
Before storing a battery, check the electrolyte level in the cells. If necessary, add distilled water to the cells, then fully charge the battery. Compliance with all storage conditions of the battery in the winter period guarantees its normal functioning in the future.
If the car is actively used in winter, observe the main condition - the constant maintenance of the battery in working condition. Try to regularly check the electrolyte level and its density. If the density has decreased significantly, charge the battery. Naturally than more quantity car trips and worse weather the more often you need to charge the battery.
Do not add concentrated acid to the battery, as some car owners do to increase the density of the electrolyte. This will result in battery failure. Do not allow the battery to become dirty: do not allow water and dirt to get on its case.
Monitor the condition of the terminals, clean them from time to time from dirt, rust and scale. Fine sandpaper will help with this. After cleaning, it is advisable to lubricate the terminals with lithol. Periodically check the reliability of the connections of electrical wires with the battery, car body and consumers. Check the tension of the alternator belts.
Insulate the engine compartment and battery with heat-insulating material. Turn on the interior heating and other consumers (headlights, dimensions, etc.) some time after the car engine has warmed up. All these measures will improve the efficiency of the battery in the winter.
Related videos
Sources:
- How to properly store and use the battery in winter
Automotive accumulator battery(battery) has 100% efficiency at +15°С - +25°С, but at -20°С its performance drops by approximately 40%.
An important condition uninterrupted operation The battery is a complete serviceability of the electrical equipment of the car on which it is operated. At insufficient voltage from the generator, the amount of electricity given off during discharge will not be compensated, and the battery will fail much faster.
Regular monitoring of the condition of the batteries and their proper maintenance will certainly help to avoid problems with starting the engine, especially during the winter cold, but a lot also depends on the equipment with which such work is performed.
A car battery (battery) has a 100% efficiency at +15°С - +25°С, but at -20°С its performance drops by approximately 40%, which means that an undercharged battery, which felt calm in summer, can let the owner down. You can significantly reduce the risk of such failures if you regularly monitor the condition of the battery, service it, and also charge it in a stationary way from time to time. Let's try to justify these important points turning to theory.
To begin with, let's mention the types of batteries that are most common now. They can be conditionally divided into low-maintenance and unattended.
The battery type, called low-maintenance, has filling holes, but they are usually located under a common cover. Modern developments have made it possible to replace antimony with calcium, a silver alloy or rare earth metals. The use of new materials made it possible to reduce gas emission by a factor of 10, as well as to achieve low water consumption, high corrosion resistance and low self-discharge. In addition new design separators made it possible to create a large reserve supply of electrolyte over the plates. However significant disadvantage still there was a possibility of boiling over during reloading. To reduce this phenomenon, some foreign manufacturers they make batteries of a combined (it is also called a hybrid) design: negative plates are made of a calcium alloy of lead, positive ones are made of low antimony.
Today, the vast majority of batteries produced by factories are low-maintenance. Over the past decades, there has been a rapid development of battery technology. As a result, several types of maintenance-free car batteries. Their water consumption is so small that the designers completely exclude access to the electrolyte. It is assumed that due to a set of special solutions, the boiling point of the electrolyte volume, which is critical for performance, exceeds the battery life before its natural failure.
The starter battery needs to be connected to charger only when it's really empty. Such a diagnosis can be made if the density of the electrolyte has decreased to 1.23 g / cm3 or the voltage at the terminals, measured 5-6 hours after the consumers are turned off, is less than 12.3 V. This rule applies to all types of modern lead acid batteries.
An important condition for the smooth operation of the battery is the full serviceability of the electrical equipment of the vehicle on which it is operated. With insufficient voltage from the generator, the amount of electricity given off during discharge will not be compensated, and the battery will fail much faster. The operation of the battery also depends on the mileage of the car (in particular, on the number of starts and charge-discharge cycles). How more mileage the shorter the service life. If a car runs more than 90 thousand km per year, then recommended for prevention annual service batteries are unlikely to be effective due to its natural wear and tear.
Practice shows that periodic maintenance battery has a beneficial effect on its characteristics and eliminates sudden failures.
Sources:
- battery in winter.
The problem seems paradoxical only at first glance. Upon closer examination, it becomes obvious that it cannot be otherwise. Despite the high price of the car and its repair, there is extremely little literature on its preservation published in the country. Abandoned to the mercy of fate, the owner of the car is by no means burdened with knowledge in this area. And in most cases, he believes that a car locked in a garage or, at worst, covered with a cover, is already protected. And if an additional layer of mastic is applied on the bottom and nigrol is poured into the thresholds, then there is nothing to worry about at all. Unfortunately, as experience shows, independently developed views in best case are ineffective and often even harmful.
But - more to the point. What are the most important factors affecting the safety passenger car?
Mileage, service life and seasonality, storage conditions and climate, care. All of them are interconnected. But if people like climate do not depend on us, then seasonality, storage conditions and maintenance are subject to us to one degree or another, and therefore, they allow us to influence the durability of the machine.
With seasonality, everything is clear. If you want to use the car longer - give up driving at an unfavorable time of the year. By the way, the old cars of the times of the "Volga" GAZ-21 therefore served for a long time, because the difficulties of winter operation kept it from it.
Let's agree that under storage conditions we will understand the ambient temperature, humidity, precipitation and other effects on the car, under care - washing the body and engine compartment, coating treatment, cleaning .
It may seem that everything is clear with storage conditions and care: what better car isolated from precipitation, sun and wind, the more often it is washed, the better. However, let's not rush to conclusions. To begin with, remember that with an annual run of 15,000 kilometers, it is in motion for only about 300 hours, which means less than an hour a day! And the rest of the time it stands: in a warm or cold garage, under a canopy, in an open area under a cover or without it.
Advantages warm garage no need to describe: at any time of the year you get into a dry car, you can easily start the engine; excellent conditions, if the size of the garage allows, for minor and even major repairs, maintenance, etc.
What about disadvantages? The main one is a continuation of the virtues (or its reverse side, if you want to). The higher the year-round temperature, the worse. With its growth, the aging of protective coatings and the process of metal corrosion, if they are damaged, are more intensive. Further. Externally, a dry car is not at all dry. In the vast majority of cases, ventilation in such garages is insufficient to dry all hard-to-reach hollow parts of the body in a short time. If you arrive at the garage during or after rain, it is safe to say that the interior surfaces of the hollow body parts will remain wet for many days and weeks.
The car especially suffers when stored in such a garage in winter after returning from the street. Because of sharp drop temperatures, both the outer and inner surfaces of the body are covered with dew, which falls from the relatively wetter warm air garage. This process is similar to what we observe when dishes taken out of the refrigerator are fogged up. The amount of condensed moisture directly depends on the temperature difference and can be very significant. In some cases, damp patches can be observed on the floor around the perimeter of the body after a few minutes, as if the car was put in the garage immediately after washing. Outside, it dries in a few hours. And those liters of water that did not leak onto the floor from the hollow body elements remain there until the next trip. In addition, the smaller, as it dries, the area is occupied by a damp area inside the body, the more intense the corrosion process is in this area.
Only very laborious, carefully thought out anti-corrosion treatment, By different reasons inaccessible to most motorists, can neutralize the negative effects of storing a car in a warm garage. If you do not regularly take special measures, then, as evidenced by the experience of storage official cars Volzhsky automobile plant in heated garages, the bodies receive through corrosion damage already at the beginning of the third year of operation and last four, maximum five years before decommissioning.
It should be noted that the data given now and below refer to vehicles manufactured without the use of pre-coated steels, although in transport department plant, there was no sharp difference between the models in terms of corrosion resistance.
It is for the reasons mentioned here that it is better not to leave a warm garage in winter without extreme need.
A cold garage in this sense is even somewhat preferable. However, in the off-season and in it, the processes that were discussed proceed quite noticeably, since when the car enters, the cooling motor and body give off heat to the surrounding small volume of air and the garage becomes warm for some time. Until the car freezes in it, the corrosion process will continue in wet places. And therefore, in a cold garage, a car sometimes rots in five years.
Of all the possible storage places, it is preferable to keep the car under a ventilated canopy. In addition to being protected from precipitation there, this type of parking has greatest benefits because wet car here it dries relatively quickly, and in the cold season, the heated parts of it quickly cool down to negative temperatures, at which corrosion stops.
Open parking, especially in winter, looks depressing: cars covered with snow, cold, windy. Not without reason, emphasizing a bad attitude towards things, they say "thrown in the open." But, contrary to popular belief, outdoor parking is far from the most bad place for long-term car storage.
As well as under a canopy, the car cools down quickly in the parking lot, it is well ventilated. The coloring and most of the exterior parts are designed for long-term exposure to solar radiation and natural precipitation. However, the owner of the car has more trouble in this case.
The main disadvantage is the insecurity of the car from deposition on the body of dew containing harmful substances from the atmosphere, as well as freezing on glass and horizontal panels of snow and ice. After heavy or prolonged rains, water may appear inside the car - which means that you need to constantly monitor the condition of the floor under the rugs and in other places, find and eliminate micro-leaks, the number of which increases with the age of the car.
Often seen on open parking cars covered with covers. This seemingly obvious measure of protection, oddly enough, has more disadvantages than advantages. The latter is that the cover protects the body from atmospheric precipitation, freezing of snow and ice. However, after some time, the cover may cause indelible colored spots to appear on the outer coating. This happens because the case itself, after prolonged use and repeated wetting, is impregnated with chemicals precipitated from the atmosphere. The concentration of these substances in the moisture that impregnates the fabric of the cover when it gets wet changes and, as the water evaporates, it necessarily reaches such a value that even car enamel cannot resist this evil solution. The whole question is only in the time the cover stays in this state. If it is large enough, the texture of the cover is imprinted on the most prominent places on the body and this pattern can only be removed mechanically or by repainting.
In windy weather, the cover wears off the paint and can cause blisters in the paintwork, which are especially likely to form in summer. Imagine that a thunderstorm has passed on a hot day. The cover and partially the car under it, of course, got wet. Then the sun reappeared. Soon the temperature under a wet and, especially, a dark cover at 100% humidity will rise by several tens of degrees. Under these conditions, moisture penetrates to the metal through any the smallest damage coatings that are always on the front surfaces of the body. A localized corrosion center develops between the layers of paint and the metal, and since the products of this process take up more space than the components from which they were formed, the body coating rises in bubbles.
Let us dwell in particular on the processes associated with the fallout from the atmosphere of various kinds of chemicals, which, one way or another, affect the durability of the coating and the body as a whole.
Most often, the so-called red rash makes itself felt. Discovered on paintwork small rusty-red dots and streaks, many believe that “local corrosion” of the body associated with poor quality metal. These fears are completely unfounded. A careful observer will notice that the rash is located only on the horizontal surfaces of the body. But it is impossible to make the roof, hood and horizontal sections of the wings from defective metal, and the vertical sections of the same parts from normal. In addition, since the outer coating of the body is three-layered (two primers and enamel) and its thickness is more than 70-80 microns, it is unbelievable that metal corrosion products could penetrate into some hypothetical pores without lifting the entire coating with a bubble.
The rash is caused by metal particles falling out of the atmosphere. Settling in calm weather on the surface of the body ( heavy rain they are washed away), they begin to corrode and adhere tightly to the body when dew or light rain falls. Usually after a few good washes the rash disappears. If not, you can wash it off with a 5% solution of oxalic acid.
Complaints about corrosion of the outer seams of the car are not uncommon. What's the matter here? After some time of operation, the mastic sealing the outer side of the joints body parts, cracks, and corrosion products protrude from there. This is most often seen on white cars, where rusty moisture leaking is more noticeable. Reason - winter riding on rough, icy roads. Due to the mutual movement of parts (the body "breathes"), the cold mastic cracks. This in itself is not dangerous. But the salt solution gets into the cracks, causing corrosion. You can fight this by smearing the seams with a heated Movil-type preservative and then wiping the surface with a rag.
The order and frequency of care are of great importance for the safety of the car. We turn Special attention on the word "order" - it is the key here.
Here is an example. There is a popular belief that a car should be washed before putting it in the garage. If we always followed this practice, a washed wet shirt would first have to be put in a closet, and dried only when going out. During washing, water penetrates between the windows and seals in the door cavities and other joints of the body. In addition, in almost any, especially a used, car, due to the loss of elasticity of the seals during washing, accompanied by a large influx of water, leaks and micro-leaks occur, which do not happen while driving and in the heaviest rain.
No matter how dirty the car is during the trip, the hollow body cavities, which necessarily have drainage holes, are blown through with air pressure. In a garage, under a shed or in a parking lot, such a car dries out faster than after washing, since most of the water is removed from it in the process of movement. In the garage, to speed up drying, it is advisable to leave it with the windows down. From what has been said, it is clear that it is necessary to wash the car before the trip, and the longer it is, the better.
However, not everything is clear-cut here either. If the car is used year-round, kept warm and does not have time to dry or freeze to negative temperatures for the next trip, it is better to wash it before putting it in the garage to remove dirt that delays the drying of individual cavities and parts, and in winter - salt stuck with snow.
Another important detail. During prolonged use of the car, especially on dusty and sandy roads, hollow body elements are clogged with dust. Being inside doors, thresholds and other box elements, dust readily absorbs moisture and retains it for a long time, creating ideal conditions for a quick appearance. through corrosion. The need for its removal can be easily determined by the owner of the machine himself, and as for the method, then, apparently, the most accessible is flushing the cavities with a jet of water from a hose inserted through technological holes usually closed with caps. In this case, you must first clean the drainage holes, which are provided for by the design.
After washing, it is desirable to dry the cavities compressed air, in extreme cases - to drive a car as far as possible. It is desirable to combine such operations with the re-treatment of the body with conservation compounds.
And the last. Often you have to talk to people who, at the sight of even an insignificant center of corrosion, panic, assure specialists in anti-corrosion protection that nothing is now able to stop the process that has begun. From the point of view of a specialist, such a dramatization is similar to claims against a garment factory that a shirt got dirty during wearing. The car is protected from corrosion only by primers and paint, which cannot but be damaged during movement when exposed to pebbles and body deformations. If this happens, the damage must be eliminated. Just like washing a soiled shirt.
Today we will look at one of critical issues about the game GTA 5 - how to keep the car forever. Theoretically, this should not be difficult. In practice, the save system in the game sometimes crashes, so you should play it safe.
Instruction
as the most simple solution the question of how to save the car in GTA 5, you can use the garages, which are located near the houses of the main characters. It is important to remember one nuance. As soon as our car is there, we save with mobile phone. If this is not done after re-entering the game, the car will disappear from the garage. Each time the car must be returned to the place in order to keep the property. You can also buy a few extra garages and keep your car in them. This concludes the main list of means for solving the problem.
Modifications and workarounds
Saving a car in GTA 5 can also be solved with the help of special add-ons, however, they should be treated with extreme caution, since such decisions are made by third-party developers and the creators of the game are not approved. Now about the features. It happens that the car disappears from its own garage, this is due to an error in some editions of the game. This problem can be solved by purchasing a hangar and storing vehicles on its territory. Another place where cars will almost certainly not disappear is a penalty area. After they will have to be redeemed, but sometimes it is justified.
Parking
Most often, the garage helps in deciding how to save a car in GTA 5, so it should be discussed separately. To get such a design for free, you need to register on a special game service. Each garage has a certain limit on the number of cars it can hold. In case of exceeding the established limits extra cars disappear. Most often, the system installed in the garage does not allow placing more than four Vehicle. If you calculate on average, there are about 6 parking spaces per character. If there are no crashes in the game, the car should be saved along with its tuning. By the way, the developers have provided for the possibility of exchanging cars between the main characters. To do this, you just need to switch between heroes at a certain time. So we figured out how to save a car in GTA 5. You can run the game on Playstation 3, Xbox 360 and a personal computer.
