The life of a modern person is inextricably linked with various mechanisms and gadgets. And to a large extent, the comfort and convenience of using numerous devices is associated with reliable and uninterrupted operation various batteries. There are simple and not too burdensome rules that allow you to extend their operation time, avoiding numerous unpleasant problems. Let's take a closer look at how to extend the life of your battery.
Taking care of your car battery
The car battery is responsible for starting the engine, providing power when the engine is turned off, and backing up the electric generator at times when there is not enough generated power. Battery life depends largely on its correct operation. Let's look at the basic rules to extend the life of a car battery.
The car battery is responsible for starting the engine, providing power when the engine is turned off, and backing up the electric generator at times when there is not enough generated power. The service life of a battery largely depends on its proper use.
Basic rules for battery operation
The basic rules to extend its durability include:
- Do not allow the battery to be completely discharged.
- When the battery is deeply discharged, charge only charger current equal to 0.1 battery capacity.
- If the level is low, add electrolyte only with distilled water, but not tap water.
Avoid full discharge
Optimal operating mode car battery provides a discharge level of 20...30% followed by a full charge.
The most important rule of operation is to maintain strict cleanliness of the battery. Thanks to this, it is possible to avoid leakage currents, contact closures, and capacitance discharge.
Monitor electrolyte levels
The electrolyte level should be regularly monitored, which may decrease due to the evaporation of its water content. Many models have maximum and minimum marks for control. If they are absent, you should strive to ensure that the level is one and a half centimeters above the edges of the battery plates.
When the level is low, it is important to top up the electrolyte only with distilled water, not tap water. You should not drain the electrolyte yourself or add new or sulfuric acid.
Check electrolyte density
It is also necessary to check the density of the electrolyte, which should be temperate climate at 20 degrees 1.28 g/cm3. If the value is lower, it is worth recharging the battery. The voltage should not fall below 12.6 V.
Exposure to vibrations contributes to the disruption of the electrode array and destroys lubricants. Therefore, it is very important to securely and firmly secure the battery.
When the battery is used correctly, under- and over-charging is equally unacceptable.
Causes and consequences of insufficient charge
The reasons for insufficient charge may be:
- generator problems;
- insufficient tension of the alternator belt;
- excessive load on the power supply network, especially in winter conditions.
The consequence of undercharging can be sulfation of the plates and even a change in the polarity of some cans.
Malfunctions of the relay regulator and other vehicle electronics can lead to overcharging of the battery. In this case, the electrolyte overheats, its level decreases with the danger of destruction of the positive plates.
When working with the battery, wear glasses, gloves, and work clothes. Due to the danger of capacitive discharge, watches, bracelets, and rings should be removed.
The question of how to extend the life of a car battery largely concerns proper operation. The starter start time should be limited to ten seconds. The interval between unsuccessful attempts must be at least a minute. In case of several unsuccessful attempts to start the engine, it is worth checking the ignition and fuel system. High power consumption should be avoided engine not running. Large temperature changes are also undesirable. It would be a good idea to use a modern insulating coating in the engine compartment.
How to extend the life of your smartphone battery
New smartphones use lithium polymer or lithium ion batteries. The recommendation to completely discharge and further charge applied to outdated batteries.
It is undesirable to discharge modern smartphones by more than half the battery capacity. The greatest durability is achieved at a charge level of 40 to 80% of full capacity. When storing the battery for a long time, a charge level of about 50% is required. The battery must be stored in the shade, maintaining the temperature at room temperature.
For a battery, both extremely low and elevated temperatures. But overheating is more dangerous. It should be understood that the battery heats up during charging and it is not advisable to immediately go out into the heat after this. Also, when charging, it is better to remove the case. Avoid sudden temperature changes.
Rapid battery discharge can be caused by dust on the Micro-USB contacts. In this case, it is worth cleaning the contacts with a toothbrush.
Operating rules
Compliance simple rules will help reduce your smartphone's power consumption, stay connected longer and increase battery life.
For Android gadgets, follow these recommendations:
- Maintain the minimum possible screen brightness for comfortable viewing.
- Disable the ability to automatically sync data.
- If there is no need to use it, then you should turn off GPS, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, accelerometer, and vibration alert.
- Although live wallpapers are beautiful, they quickly drain the battery and should be abandoned.
- After working with the program, close it.
- Activating the “Use only 2G network” mode will significantly reduce the load on the battery.
It is important not to keep the smartphone under the sun, overheating it.
Let's see how to extend the life of the iPhone battery. The same recommendations apply to them. Additionally, you can recommend:
- use of power saving mode;
- enabling an ad blocker in the browser;
- disable unused AirDrop feature;
- prohibiting applications from using geolocation services;
- prohibition of the option to improve Apple products;
- disabling content updates.
We provide mobility for laptops and tablets
Tablets and laptops are equipped mainly with lithium-ion batteries, and MacBooks are equipped with lithium-polymer batteries.
Basic measures to ensure long-term operation these batteries include:
- support battery charge in the range from 0.4 to 0.8 of its full capacity;
- operating the gadget within a temperature range of 15 to 25 degrees;
- operating temperature limits from 5 to 45 degrees;
- avoiding direct sunlight and overheating when charging;
- use only original and working charging device;
- storing the battery with a charge level of about 50%.
When operating the laptop from the mains, it is better to remove the battery, but periodically it is necessary to work from it at least once every five days. Ensure sufficient cooling of the laptop and do not block the ventilation openings. A large amount of RAM will allow you to use it less often HDD, which also reduces the degree of heating.
It is advisable not to use standby mode, disable unused services and programs, and adjust the brightness to the minimum required. When the laptop is turned off, it should be disconnected from the network.
Maintaining the functionality of the tool
Cordless power tools provide mobility and ease of use. Consider how to extend the life of the battery of a power tool. The rules for longevity of a battery depend on the type of battery.
Classical nickel cadmium battery must be stored unloaded. For its longevity, due to the memory effect, charging must be carried out after a complete discharge and reach 100%. It is necessary to beware of overheating during operation, use a standard charging device.
The nickel-metal hydride battery does not need to be fully discharged. Can be stored in a charged state at low but positive temperatures. The operating temperature range is from -10 to 40 degrees. To extend the service life, avoid overcharging, full discharge and excessive heating.
New lithium-ion batteries are best stored at half charge at temperatures above 0 but below ten degrees. During operation, you should avoid high temperatures, do not charge at low temperatures, make sure that the charge is within 20...90%, use a branded, working charger.
Modern batteries usually last less than the main equipment. However, knowledge and compliance with easy rules can significantly increase their service life. Moreover, an almost twofold increase in durability is possible.
Mobile devices have long been part of our lives and already seem to be an integral part of our daily life. The search for a free outlet to connect a charger for a mobile phone, tablet or laptop has become an equally common task. IT.TUT.BY has collected several simple recommendations, following which will help extend the life of your battery mobile phone.
Today, lithium-ion (Li-Ion) and lithium polymer (Li-pol) batteries are the most common batteries used in mobile devices and offer a number of advantages over older nickel-based batteries.
A little history
The first work on lithium batteries was carried out by Gilbert Newton Lewis back in 1912. However, the first mass-produced lithium power sources appeared only in 1970. Attempts to improve them continued in the 80s, but it was not possible to ensure a sufficient level of safety: during charging, the temperature rose to the melting point of lithium, which led to a violent reaction and explosion. In 1991, a large batch had to be returned to Japan lithium batteries, after a person suffered facial burns from a similar explosion.
Due to the natural instability of lithium, scientists decided to turn to the study of non-metallic lithium batteries using ions of this chemical element. Although the energy density of lithium-ion batteries is slightly less than that of lithium, they are the safest in terms of chemical composition of all that exist. This helped them become the most popular. The first lithium-ion battery was released in 1991. SONY company. Since then, about two billion lithium-ion batteries have been produced annually in the world.
Working principle of a lithium-ion battery
Exploitation
Modern lithium-ion batteries have an operating voltage of 3.6-3.7 V. The operating life up to a loss of 20% of capacity is from 500 to 1000 charge / discharge operating cycles. Lithium power supplies have good safety - self-discharge is only 7-10% per year. The well-known “memory effect” is virtually absent in this type of battery.
During operation, you must understand that battery energy is used to operate all components mobile device. Thus, the operation of the processor, receiver, display, backlight, Wi-Fi, GPS, Bluetooth, FM receiver and flashlight “eat up” the battery charge. The more energy consumers are turned on, the faster the power supply will discharge. If you want to charge the battery less often, turn off unnecessary internal consumers, set up more infrequent application updates, turn off the Internet connection when you are not using it, etc.
Time battery life There are fewer of the same phones on 3G networks than on 2G networks. The fact is that 3G uses a fundamentally different method of packaging information for transmission over a radio channel, which requires significantly greater computing resources and continuous reception of the base station signal.
Charger Li-ion battery performed in combined mode. First when DC until 70-80% capacity is reached (40-60 minutes), then at constant voltage until 100% capacity is reached (the process may take 40-80 minutes). So, it is enough to charge a mobile phone for half an hour in order to get 70% of the battery capacity. At the same time, no negative consequences there will be no battery.
The service life of lithium-ion batteries, provided they are used correctly, is 2-3 years. To prolong their life, you need to follow a few simple rules.
Li-ion batteries really “don’t like” low and high temperatures, so try not to use your phone on severe frost. Do not charge a battery that has been in the cold until it warms up to a positive Celsius temperature - this is an important requirement for the safe operation of lithium-ion batteries. While charging, the battery may become warm, but the phone will temporarily stop charging to allow the battery to cool down. Using a mobile phone in high humidity can lead to oxidation of the battery contacts.
Contrary to popular belief, the battery should not be discharged before turning off the mobile device. This procedure is called " deep discharge"and it can completely damage your battery. When performing a deep discharge in lithium-ion batteries Irreversible chemical processes occur that lead to loss of performance. Why doesn't the battery fail when it is completely discharged involuntarily, for example, if you simply forgot to charge your phone? The fact is that in any Li-ion battery there is a controller that ensures that the battery discharge does not reach a critical level. low level, and opens the power supply circuit in time. If at a certain point this controller fails, the battery will become unusable.
If new battery within a few months after use it begins to significantly lose capacity, most likely the discharge controller is not working correctly. Based on the voltage and internal resistance of the battery, the device can make erroneous conclusions about the battery capacity and “turn off” it much earlier than reaching the critical point. In such cases, it makes sense to calibrate the battery. This is a common procedure for most modern devices. Its purpose is to correct errors accumulated in the controller by performing a full cycle of charging and discharging the battery, which is not recommended to be done more than once every 1-3 months. Calibration will also help the display more accurately show the remaining battery charge.
It is recommended to use original batteries from the cell phone manufacturer. Since the functions of the battery management system for mobile phones are greatly reduced, and the charge is controlled by the mobile phone charging system, the battery from third party manufacturer will work less, since the charging system does not know the characteristics of non-original batteries.
Lithium batteries age even if they are not used, but just sitting on a shelf. It is best to store a disconnected battery with a charge level between 40-50%. Do not forget that the battery is consumables and has a limited shelf life. A gradual “drain” of charge is inevitable, and the operating time of the device from such a battery will decrease over time. It makes no sense to buy a battery “in reserve” or get too carried away with “saving” its resource. At the time of buying new battery Be sure to pay attention to the manufacturing date so you know how long this power supply has already spent in storage. If more than two years have passed since the date of manufacture, it is better to refrain from purchasing, since the battery has already “spent” more than half of its life.
After my article on how to choose a battery (read informatively), I often began to receive letters and comments from my viewers and readers with questions such as “bought new battery, on your advice, but a week later he won’t start the car again - why?” Others ask to tell you how to increase the service life (operation) of the battery. And you know there are quite a lot of such comments. That’s actually why I decided to write an article and shoot a video to answer all the questions at once...
To be honest with the era maintenance-free batteries, many motorists simply do not know how to properly maintain their car’s battery. They think it’s been used for a couple of years (if you’re lucky, five) and scrapped, but that’s not always the case. Elementarily the most banal and simple advice, if the car “does not turn”, check the charge, perhaps from some short trips, from large quantity“consumers” it is discharged and simply needs to be recharged. There is no need to immediately run and change it for a new one.
Today I will give you some tips that will help you extend the life of your battery, and sometimes understand why a new battery discharges so quickly. Let's not delay, let's go:
Generator (undercharge or overcharge)
The generator is our everything, it replenishes the battery charge (when it gives it up to start). This generating plant can have many different breakdowns (especially through long runs), I won’t go into too much depth, that’s not the point right now, but I’ll describe the main ones:
- Came out
- The brushes are out of order
- Yes, it’s commonplace that the belt is torn or slipping
All this can lead to undercharging (then either sulfation, and in winter the battery can freeze) or overcharging (water will boil away from the electrolyte, the plates will become exposed, they may heat up and simply crumble). This will not extend its service life in any way, but on the contrary, it will shorten it as much as possible (you can kill it in literally a week). I have an article - I recommend reading it.
Leakage current
Nowadays, many different THIRD PARTY equipment can be installed in a car. electronic devices– alarms, gadgets (navigators, DVRs, COMBOs, etc.). All this drains energy from the battery. Think for yourself, you turned off the car and set the alarm, it must be “powered” by something, so it gradually sucks the battery. Really a little large manufacturers this is monitored (usually around 20-30 milliamps per hour). But the alarm system may not always be of high quality, or it may not be installed correctly, so leaks can increase significantly (I read somewhere that up to 200 milliamps per hour) - and now imagine how much you spend per night! YES even if cold start, short trips, etc.
If you bought a new battery, and after a week it died again, you need to, perhaps this is the reason.
Electrolyte level has dropped
In any battery, the electrolyte level drops over time, the capacity drops accordingly, the plates are exposed (because the concentration becomes higher), and the plates can simply heat up and crumble - if distilled water is not added.
In "serviced" batteries, this is easy and simple, just unscrew the plugs and add.
But in the "non-discussable" it is VERY problematic to do this, they are not designed for this (although our craftsmen manage to do this), maybe I will have an article about restoration.
In any case, you need to monitor the level, if possible, this will extend the service life MUCH.
This can happen for many reasons, but the main one is electrolyte vapor between the current terminal and the housing. Vapors rise and oxidize the terminals. Because of this, the contact patch falls, the charge it's getting worse, and the current output also deteriorates.
- It is necessary to eliminate oxides
- We need to find the reason for their appearance. If there are microcracks in the battery case, they need to be eliminated. There are many videos on this topic, there are special formulations(composite adhesives), so you just need the desire to eliminate this problem
This is also bad because the vapors, when rising to the surface, form wet spots that may not dry out for a long time and a small self-discharge can also occur through them.
Housing mount
Many people neglect this, but it is also important. Any battery, on almost any car, has a rigid attachment to the body. You shouldn't remove it.
This is done specifically so that it does not dangle in engine compartment and so that you don’t break your “current leads” (microcracks about which I wrote above), and even in severe cases the case
Thermal case for battery
This thing is quite good, but only if done correctly. If without heating, then on the contrary it will worsen the performance of the battery. The point is - if it is very cold outside, then the battery will freeze very much during the night.
After starting and warming up the engine, warm air on the contrary, it will not flow to the battery case; it will be hampered by the thermal case, which will keep the cold inside. Thus, you need to understand that it must be heated, only then it will be useful. In all other respects there is only HARM.
High energy consumption – listening to music for a long time
If your car has a lot of different consumers (some kind of heaters, inverters, large subwoofer speakers, amplifiers), you need to understand that a standard generator can, but will not, cope with all this. And then it will take part of the energy from the battery, even if the car is running. That is, there will be a discharge. DO NOT exceed your vehicle's consumption, especially in winter period time, because it’s not easy for him anyway!
The same applies to those who listen to music with the car turned off, especially if there is a lot of it and, again, it is powerful. The battery runs out very quickly and this does not help it in any way for a long time services. If you are a music lover, then you need to install an additional battery in the car.
Cold start - preventative charge
Winter is also a test for our batteries. At extremely negative temperatures, it takes a charge very poorly (but still takes it). During a cold start, in addition to the fact that the battery itself (from the cold, has lost part of its capacity), the engine also needs to be cranked. So you start the engine, then warm it up for a couple of minutes, 10 minutes before work, the battery has not had time to take back the charge spent during startup. Then you go to work, the car is again in the cold all day and again a cold start - undercharging. And all this can be repeated every day.
In order to increase service life, you need to do a preventive charge at least once every month or two (and the colder it is in your region, the more often it needs to be done). If you don’t have a charger, then there is an easy way to recharge the battery - just take long trips at least once every week or two (40 minutes or more). Then your battery will warm up and recharge.
Starter - battery polarity
Often in bad starts It may not be the battery that is at fault, but the starter. It can also fail (the retractor relay simply sticks or does not work normally) and therefore the engine cannot be started. Again, before buying, you need to check the old one, the voltage (should be 12.7V), the electrolyte level (if possible), you can walk. And a non-working starter will make itself felt in any case.
Many people ask me, what will the battery be like - if you accidentally mixed up the terminals, took the wrong polarity? Nothing good, although not fatal! Most likely you will burn the wiring, fuses (I even have it on the positive terminal), and (there is a high probability). So be careful.
These are the tips, I think it was useful. Now the video version of the article
I’ll finish here, take care of your battery and its service life will DEFINITELY increase. That's all - sincerely your AUTOBLOGGER
We have been engaged in the educational and useful practice of preparing a battery for winter - now it’s time for theory, which is also useful and interesting! About the "features" national use batteries" Kolesa.Ru talked with a professor at the Department of Operation road transport MADI by Yuri Vladimirovich Panov.
Many car owners, unfortunately, are familiar with the story of battery failure and replacement after 2-3 years. What should be the actual service life of a modern medium-sized battery - without the “super nanotechnology” announced by the manufacturer and, accordingly, an inflated price?
Let us assume that a number of conditions are met, namely:
1. During the entire period of operation, the generator and relay regulator are in good working order and do not produce increased voltage
2. The battery has not been deeply discharged
3. The battery did not often have to “oil” a poorly starting engine for a long time
In this case, any battery (without defects or internal defects!) can easily work for 6-7 years on a “domestic use” car - family car, not commercial and not a taxi. In vehicle fleets, battery life is, of course, about half as long.
– So, these three factors destroy the battery? Which one is the most dangerous?
Yuri Vladimirovich Panov
Professor MADI
– The most dangerous is increased voltage, due to which water evaporates and the electrolyte level drops. This can happen in both warm and cold seasons. Today, as a rule, cars do not have a voltmeter, and it is very difficult to detect in time that the voltage in the on-board network has risen to 15 volts. And increased voltage can “kill” a battery in a month.
– What should I do?
— There can be two pieces of advice here. If you suspect an increase in voltage, just measure it; you don’t have to visit a service center for this. Many people have a simple multimeter that is useful in everyday life - connect it to the battery and check the voltage: it should not exceed the nominal 14.2 volts. It is necessary to measure not immediately after starting with the starter, but after a short trip, when the generator has already returned the energy spent on starting to the battery. Do not turn off the engine and connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals - look at the voltage Idling and, more importantly, at 2-3 thousand rpm. It often happens that the problem of increased voltage manifests itself precisely at high speeds.
Well, it’s a good idea to take, as it may seem, a “step back” in evolution - buy a simple voltmeter that is inserted into the cigarette lighter connector in a Chinese online store, it costs a penny. Or, if you have a non-standard one installed trip computer, display the “on-board voltage” parameter on the main screen. Despite the fact that machines are getting smarter from year to year, it is not difficult and very useful to still continue to control some parameters “manually”, understanding their meaning.
– And a deep discharge - say, if some current consumer was forgotten for the night or longer, and in the morning the car does not even open with the alarm key fob - how dangerous is this for the battery? There is a “garage” opinion that even after one such “zero” discharge, irreversible changes occur in the battery, it is no longer reliable and it is better to change it at the first opportunity, especially in view of winter...
– On batteries that have been in use for several years, a deep discharge can indeed cause irreparable harm, but if the battery is new and has been in use for less than a year, then after charging it will completely restore its properties. Irreversible changes, if there are any, are negligible.
– If the car's electrical equipment is in good working order, does it make sense to periodically charge the battery for maintenance?
– It makes sense, especially in winter. In city style without long trips (you need an hour or two of driving, not an hour of standing in a traffic jam!) 1-2 times during the winter, it is advisable to charge the battery. The fact is that even with fully operational electrical equipment in winter, the energy balance often “goes into the minus”. The car starts in the morning, spending almost twice as much current as in the summer to turn the crankshaft of a cold engine at thick oil. Having started, we turn on all powerful consumers at once: heated seats, rear window and mirrors, headlights... At idle, all this causes a voltage drop - if the battery does not continue to discharge, it certainly does not receive the necessary charging current. A short trip, parking and driving home in the evening - everything is repeated. Day after day, the battery loses electrolyte density, which can only be restored long trip or charger while parked.
Therefore, the best algorithm for action in winter is to not turn on any electrical consumers during warm-up after starting the engine; thanks to this, the generator, even at idle, will immediately begin to charge the battery, restoring lost energy. How long you warm up the engine is up to you, this is a “religious” question. Personally, I only use the good ones synthetic oil and, if the frost is ordinary for the middle zone, a few minutes after starting the engine I usually start driving - here the speed already exceeds the idle speed, and “two birds with one stone” are killed: the battery is actively charging and accelerated warm-up engine and interior under load.
– We touched on a different, but related (albeit slippery and"holivar"!) the topic of the need to warm up the engine... Comment on the sequence of reasoning and actions pin relation to batteries.
- Many cars take a very long time to warm up at idle - try, for example, to properly warm up the notoriously “cold-blooded” 1.8 TSI engine installed in VW and Skoda!
- Warming up while driving is many times more effective than warming up in a parking lot - this is a fact, but driving a few minutes after starting is sometimes impossible, because the windows are frozen from the inside, and before your eyes they freeze even more from your breath. But not everyone has heated windshields...
- There is an opinion among people that it is possible to speed up warm-up at idle by giving the engine a generator as at least some load - after all, the more current it gives out, the more difficult it is for the engine to turn it. Therefore, during warm-up, some turn on all possible current consumers, including those they do not need in the first place. this moment– headlights, heated windows, heated seats, music, hold the brake pedal to light two 21-watt brake light bulbs, etc. However, it turns out that such warming up greatly discharges the already frozen and drained battery...
While we gain in warm-up speed, we lose in battery life.
– How can we be here? Maybe when warming up on the spot, give the gas pedal a small revolution - one thousand and a half, say?
– Yes, it doesn’t work here to “capture all the advantages”, it turns out to be “either or”. Either soft warming up or normal charging. In fact, electrical consumers turned on at idle are not even close in terms of warming up efficiency with slow movement in 1st or 2nd gear. Therefore, the acceleration of the motor reaching operating mode is insignificant. Giving it speed is also not an option, because without load the engine still generates little heat: in order to give more fuel for injection and, accordingly, get more calories of heat, the car must start moving.
I would still do this - after starting the engine, I did not turn on any loads, cleaned the windows manually, and then started driving in first or second gears. However, all this is possible only if you have an “acceleration strip” where you can crawl slowly and safely for some time with limited visibility. If you have to make difficult maneuvers in a tight parking lot or need to get onto the highway after ten meters, then, of course, you will have to warm it up on the spot...
– Let's return to the recommendation to charge the battery 1-2 times during the winter. Many people do not charge the battery, even if they have a garage, purely technical reasons– disable "mass" they don’t want the settings of the radio and other devices to be reset, and there is a popular prejudice against connecting a charger to a battery with the terminals not removed... What to do?
– Disconnecting the battery unnecessarily, including for preventive recharging, for modern car not very useful. The memory of the radio station is just nonsense: it is important that after turning off the power, the adaptive parameters of the engine and gearbox, which the control unit accumulates during everyday operation, disappear. There is nothing fatal in this - the system will again collect statistics and configure itself, this is its normal mode, but the configuration may be accompanied by increased consumption fuel for some time, unusual behavior of the car, and so on.
In fact, there is nothing wrong with connecting a charger directly to the terminals of a battery from which the power “plus” and “minus” have not been removed. The main thing is that the ignition is turned off and the key is removed before doing this. There is no need to worry about a working car - the only problem here is the reliability of the charger itself, which is often “mongrel” Chinese made. A cheap random charger can fail, and it's good if it just turns off. But it can also catch fire!
Moreover, we like to protect the wing paint from scratches by placing a cloth under the charger, blocking its ventilation slots... Therefore, in order to safely leave the charger unattended, it can be placed in an ordinary 10-liter iron bucket, placed at 1-2 bricks It may look funny, but even the appearance of an open flame will not lead to the ignition of objects lying nearby.
– Well, let’s end the conversation with lyrics, the voice of a blatant car owner... For example, on my previous car, removing the ignition key automatically extinguished the lights, but on the current one they can remain on - the buzzer just starts working, warning about a forgotten light. But its sound can be missed in a hurry or foolishly ignored; the result is a completely dead battery the next morning... At the same time, which is typical, head unit It also works without an ignition key, but has a built-in timer - it turns off after an hour... So I’ll ask a rhetorical question: why do automakers have such different logic in their approach to the algorithm for turning on electrical consumers in the car? Why in such an elementary "foolproof"there is no unity of opinion?!
– Unity can only be in the requirements for safety regulations vehicles, which all manufacturers comply with. Regarding electrical consumers, working even without an ignition key, it only talks about emergency light signaling. If you stalled on the road at night, then let the battery die completely, but the emergency flasher should blink to the last! Everything else is at the discretion of the engineers and their understanding of logic.
Keyless operation of dimensions - apparently, the automaker believes that you should be able to designate more efficiently standing car on dark road, and allows you to turn on not only flashing light, but also constant light. The logic here is different for everyone - I had to deal with a Mercedes whose owner listened to music for a long time, and the next morning he could not start. I had concerns that a completely discharged battery would not be able to be charged with a conventional low-power charger, since many of them simply do not charge batteries that have reached zero. However, when we measured the voltage on the battery, it turned out to be 10 volts, the charger began charging it without problems, and after a couple of hours the car started. As it turned out, the built-in lock of the car turned off the battery at a voltage of 10 volts - it saved the battery, but did not allow it to start in the end. Although the question arises: why is this electronics not configured in such a way as to turn off forgotten consumers and retain the ability to start?
amp;lt;a href=»http://polldaddy.com/poll/9150636/»amp;gt;Are you concerned about battery life?amp;lt;/aamp;gt;
Average The service life of a modern lead-acid battery for a car is from 5 to 7 years. This is only if the owner fulfills all the manufacturer's requirements for maintenance and operation of the battery. It is not always possible to foresee everything, and death occurs suddenly. This also applies to the battery. In order not to waste extra money on buying a new battery, it is enough to pay attention to it literally twice a year. Then it will serve not only the required 7 years, but may also remain in reserve. All you need to do is train your car battery.
What is a control-training cycle?
If the battery is very tired from life or has not been used for a long time, only the KTC - control and training cycle can help it. It will also help you get to know the battery that was in, say, a newly purchased car, and determine its approximate resource and lifespan. The whole operation is easily carried out by hand without sophisticated equipment and encyclopedic knowledge It is enough to finish reading this manual, and the battery can live a new life, breathe deeply and delight the owner with a stable 12 V. Experienced motorists recommend training and restoring the car battery at least once a year, with the exception of new batteries. The training cycle includes a full charge of the battery, a control discharge of the battery, after which recharging is carried out.
How to conduct battery training?
All battery training is not carried out in a car. To do this, the battery is removed, charged using charging technology using any available charger, after which the electrolyte density in all sections of the battery is measured. The average density of the electrolyte should be within 1.27 g / cm3. Density testing is carried out with an aerometer, and some battery models have a built-in indicator that signals the level of electrolyte density. If the density is greater than the nominal, add to the jar distilled water If less - finished electrolyte with a density of 1.4 g / cm3.
Now the most important thing is to properly discharge the battery. To do this, it is connected to a powerful rheostat, and the discharge parameters are controlled with an ammeter and voltmeter. The wiring diagram is so simple that we drew it ourselves. Here she is . 
Now that the battery is connected, the ten-hour discharge process begins. The current value corresponds to 9% of the rated battery capacity. That is, if the battery is 50 Ah, then the discharge current should be exactly 4.5 A, if 60, then 5.4 A, and a 75 Ah battery is discharged with a current of 6.8 A. It is very important to maintain the discharge current at a constant level until the voltage at the battery terminals drops to 10.3 V. Less than this value, discharging is not allowed.
Subtleties of battery training
Process Quite subtle, requiring attention, but extremely effective. We record the time from the beginning of discharge. The first measurement is made at the very beginning of the discharge cycle, and care must be taken to ensure that the electrolyte does not overheat. Subsequent measurements are carried out no earlier than after 3-4 hours. The main thing is not to miss the moment when the voltage drops to 11 V. After this threshold, measurements are taken every 10-15 minutes until the voltage value drops to 10.2-10.3 V. The time spent discharging the battery with a given current will speak eloquently about the true capacity of the battery. The shorter the discharge time, the smaller the actual capacity. It is easily calculated. The discharge current is simply multiplied by the time spent discharging to 10.2 volts.
For example, the battery has a capacity of 90 Ah, therefore, its discharge current should be exactly 8.1A. According to measurements, the battery was discharged in 6 hours. It turns out 6x8.1 = 48.6. Consequently, after the first discharge cycle, the battery has a capacity of 48.6 Ah, which is almost half the nominal value. Now you need to repeat the procedure for charging the battery using the standard method or pulse current until fully charged, and then carry out training according to the same scheme - restorative discharge Restoring the battery with pulsed current can give a similar result, but in manual mode, as described above, the result is guaranteed. After 3-4 such cycles, the actual battery capacity will increase to the nominal capacity in 90% of cases, so do not rush to recycle old batteries.
