Slavuta twitches when moving cause. The car twitches: the reason is in the injector

The car twitches unexpectedly, the same thing happens on the descents, on the ascents, and so on. What is the reason for this behavior of the vehicle? There are a lot of reasons, but under any conditions, a twitching car can become an involuntary cause of an emergency. Below we outline the most common situations in which you may encounter this problem.

Prevention is better than repair!

But first answer the question: "How to determine that the car is twitching on the gas?" It seemed like a strange question. But if you already clearly feel shaking in the car, then the problem has reached its climax and has become too obvious. And, as you know, any problem is easier to prevent than to fix. Therefore, try to pay attention to changes in the movement of your vehicle as early as possible. And here there is a hitch - few drivers will be able to notice it.

It must be said right away that it is wrong to check the car for the presence / absence of jerking movements (except in rare cases), this can only be done while driving. Having chosen a flat safe section of the road, alternately change gears. On each of them, sharply press the gas pedal. The machine should respond only to your pressing, even the lightest. If the car jerks without your desire or jolts are felt when lifting, then you need to look for the causes of this problem.

When accelerating, the car jerks...

Are you gaining momentum, and the car starts to jerk, its course ceases to be smooth? The reason lies in the intermittent flow of fuel into the float chamber: it disappears from there faster than it enters. The fuel pump supplies fuel there, so it could be a malfunction. How to "cure" it? To do this, remove the fuel pump cover and carefully inspect the hole where the valve should be. Often the o-ring lies nearby, and not in place, or is completely absent. Due to depressurization, there are interruptions in fuel injection, and, consequently, the car twitches on the go. Repair in this case consists in replacing the valve and restoring the tightness of the system. You can also do it yourself if you have a new O-ring of a suitable diameter and a tool. This work will take half an hour at the most, and a professional will do it in 5 minutes.

Jerks when driving at low speed

If the machine twitches at low speeds, then you should check the operation of the nozzles. Carefully inspect the harness too - if it lies directly on the fuel pipe, it can fray. This will lead to the fact that when the wires touch the tube, the wiring will close and the injection nozzles will turn off. Replacing the wiring should fix the problem.

What to do if the car jerks when you press the gas?

If the car twitches when you press the gas, then in order to eliminate this defect, you should figure out what is the reason. For example, the cause of the car twitching on the gas may be a vacuum ignition regulator. This part is usually located on the distributor. A characteristic twitch occurs most often if the regulator is broken, and here replacing the carburetor is pointless. How does a vacuum cleaner work? The rate of fuel combustion is always constant, and the engine speed increases, which means that we need to increase the rate of ignition of the fuel mixture while driving. At speeds ranging from 1500 to 2000, the centrifugal regulator in the car does not work; when driving at high speeds, it is the vacuum ignition angle regulator that takes over this task. When the throttle is open, a vacuum occurs through it into the diaphragm. This pulls the bearing along, and therefore increases the lead angle. It is quite easy to check the correct operation of the hose. Close one of its ends with your tongue or finger - the hose should “suck” this part of the body slightly and remain hanging, since there is a vacuum inside it. And getting air in there just leads to the fact that during acceleration the car twitches.

The next culprit in the occurrence of twitching while driving is the accelerator pump sprayer (drivers often call it a "kettle", "spout" or "samovar"). To see this detail and evaluate the effectiveness of its work, you will have to remove two removable diffusers and, by pressing the lever, see how the “nose” works in each of the chambers. If even one of them fails, then this is an occasion for an unpleasant situation in which the car stalls and twitches. The repair is as follows: remove the atomizer, clamp its lower part with pliers and pull out the ball. Then clean the rest, blow it out and put the part back together. Avoid deformation, so the air must enter strictly into the diffuser and into the collector, and not onto the wall. After installing the sprayer in its original place, check its operation again - a serviceable part gives a long, straight stream. The removable diffuser must be installed correctly, that is, close to the carburetor body. If space remains at the junction, an undesirable vacuum may occur.

Car twitches while driving: Diaphragm failure

Accelerator pump diaphragm failure is a very rarely diagnosed problem. It is expressed in the fact that only a spring remains on the diaphragm, and there is no button to close it. In this case, you can come up with its home-made analogue, but often in auto repair shops they do not check for the presence of this small part, but resort to an expensive replacement of the carburetor.

Checking fuel filters

Lack of fuel, which leads to jolts when the machine is moving, can also be caused by pollution. The amount varies depending on the type of engine. For example, in diesel engines there are two of them: for preliminary and fine fuel cleaning. Most often, it is the latter that is the reason that the car twitches while driving. To determine the condition of the first filter on the fuel receiver, you need to disconnect the rubber hose from it and blow through the mesh. When performing this manipulation, do not forget about one obligatory condition: the fuel tank cap must be removed. The procedure after a few days should be repeated, and not limited to cleaning the fuel filters, but add to this the flushing of the fuel tank. This will help to avoid re-clogging of the mesh and extend the life of the filter. If the car still twitches when starting, inspect the fine filter. For Japanese brand cars, it is disposable, that is, it does not need to be cleaned, but you just need to put in a new one. To ensure that fuel enters the filter confidently after replacement, fill the part with it before starting the engine. To do this, we replace one hose coming from the fuel tank with a transparent tube and inject liquid into the filter with our mouth. After that, you can put the standard hose back on and press several times. Only after that you can start the engine and evaluate its work. In this way, you can quickly fill the filter, when pumping fuel only with a hand pump, it will take much more time.

It is also possible to restore the old fuel filter by cleaning it of rust and dirt, but this is true for non-Japanese-made cars. To remove the filter, remove the booster pump mount, unscrew the lower plastic plug and the part itself from the part. Do not be afraid to damage its lower part by clamping the part with a vise: the filter component is higher in it, and the lower third is a settling glass, all impurities accumulate in it. Hot kerosene will help us clean the filter. To do this, pour pure kerosene into any metal container (bowl, saucepan, etc.), add a small amount of water to it (approximately a tablespoon) and put on fire. Naturally, the fumes of kerosene cannot be called aromas, so these manipulations are recommended to be carried out in a well-ventilated area, taking care of personal protective equipment in advance. Following the water at the bottom of the pan, you can trace the heating of kerosene. When the water boils, you can lower the filter into the container, after removing all plastic parts from it. Hold the filter with tweezers and rinse it in the heated liquid. If necessary, after boiling the water, cool the kerosene, and then repeat the whole procedure again. As it has already become clear, water here plays only the role of an indicator of temperature. What is it for? In this way, we evaporate water from the filter and clean it of rust.

Boiling kerosene is also able to clean the part from paraffin deposits that settle on the grid if the car uses fuel with a high content of them. Kerosene dissolves paraffins, and after such cleaning, the filter will be able to serve you for about another ten thousand kilometers (of course, if you do not fill the tank with low-quality fuel after that). If you are afraid of tearing the filter element, we do not recommend blowing it with compressed air. Some drivers cleverly redesign the fine filter system, which allows them to use domestic filtration models. Modernization consists in the fact that the basic imported filter is supplemented with a glass that can be disassembled. Such processing is relevant if you are in places where it is impossible to repair a vehicle or replace a part with a new one. But even here you can run into difficulties. Models of Japanese replaceable filters often have double walls with a filler between them, so welding can become not only laborious, but also fire hazardous, since the filler is combustible. Also, speaking of fine filters, it must be borne in mind that if this part is contaminated, the engine may work intermittently, but at the same time it does not jerk the car. This becomes especially noticeable when driving uphill - the engine constantly stalls, sneezes. The fact that the engine has lost power can be determined by stopping on the side of the road and starting to fill the fuel filter with a hand pump. Normally, the button should return to its original position, but when you press the gas, it will be kept pressed by the pressure from the feed pump from the injection pump. If the car twitches during braking, then the fault of the clutch discs may be to blame, or you need to look for the cause in the automatic transmission.

Diesel engines are equipped with the same fine filtration systems, so it is easier to select parts for them - they do not depend on the type of engine or brand of machine.

In some cases, it can be equipped with another mesh filter. It is located at the inlet of the high pressure fuel pump, for example, it is on all Nissan cars. To see and remove it, remove the bolt that attaches the piping to the pump and you will see the plastic housing in which this part is installed. But in Toyota cars, it will be installed a little differently: it will be located above it to cut off the fuel (participates in engine shutdown). By the way, if you are the owner of a car with a diesel engine and notice that when idling, its speed “floats” (they increase, then fall, then return to normal), check the cleanliness of the filters - often the presence of contamination in them leads to this problem.

Speaking of carbureted engines...

And what to do if you have At the beginning of the article, we already mentioned several situations in which the car twitches on the go due to the fault of the carburetor. But fuel fine filters can also be the cause. The easiest way in this case, of course, is to replace them, but this can not always be done on the road. If the problem was discovered on a trip and it is not possible to visit a car repair shop, the first thing that can help is flushing the filter with gasoline in reverse, since on Japanese cars it is most often placed on a direct guide to the fuel pump. This will help you get at least to the nearest car service or garage. Some drivers resort to piercing this filter, but such advice is not only wrong, but even harmful. The lint that comes off will certainly get into the carburetor, which will destroy this part very quickly, so that this expensive part will need to be replaced. If you don’t have a “native” filter at hand, for example, from Toyota, you can use its analogue from another car with a carburetor engine, in this case such components are interchangeable and sometimes differ from each other only in diameter.

Some brands of cars (for example, Honda) have a non-standard location of the fuel pump, therefore, it will be difficult to find a filter system the first time. But if your car is jerking while driving and you want to fix it, here are some tips. Most often, the electric fuel pump will be located next to the gas tank, and the filters in front of it. Do not forget that in engines of this type there is also a third filter element. It is located in the carburetor itself, in the place where gasoline enters. To clean or at least inspect this part, it is often necessary to disassemble the carburetor, but in some cars (for example, in Nissan), access to the filter mesh is much easier. The whole process of work is as follows:

1. Unscrew the fixing bolt of the inlet pipe.
2. Remove tube.
3. Take out the filter mesh located directly below it and clean it.
4. Put the filter in its original place and attach the nozzle.

If this is not possible, you will have to perform the following series of manipulations:

1. Remove the top cover of the carburetor and turn it over.
2. Pull out the float shaft.
3. Remove the float and locking corner.
4. Next, go to the needle valve and unscrew its seat (for this purpose you will need a small wrench or a regular flat screwdriver).
5. Remove the saddle, turn it over, clean the filter mesh on its back side.

Sometimes it is not necessary to completely remove the seat, it is enough just to blow out the resulting hole with a jet of compressed air after removing the locking needle. This simple manipulation will help to clean the filter efficiently. But the first filtration system that fuel passes through in carbureted engines is a strainer on the intake pipe in the gas tank. Its cleaning is similar to cleaning filters in diesel engines, which we have already written about above.

Let's move on to the problems of gasoline engines, which can also lead to the fact that you feel like the car twitches. As it is already clear, we will analyze in detail its filtering systems. It must be said right away that the number of filters here varies depending on the location of the fuel pump. If it is inside the gas tank, then the filtration system will consist of a receiving mesh, a fine filter and mesh filters in front of the injectors. If the pump is brought outside, then in addition to those already listed, it will be possible to find a fourth one - a mesh cone-shaped filter located in the pipeline in front of the gas tank. If you want to pull it out and clean it, first remove the hose for the fuel pump inlet, after which you can carefully remove the cone with tweezers. But do not forget that if the above did not help, and the car twitches while driving, the injector in such cases must also be checked for serviceability.

Pulling the car? Check the spark!

Defective operation of the sparking system most often reveals itself by the fact that the car starts to jerk when driving off a hill or on a flat stretch of road. For example, such a problem was often encountered in Nissan cars, since their CA-18 engine was equipped with a contactless distributor. There is a switch in the body of this part, failures in its operation lead to such a specific movement of the car. You can fix the twitching only by replacing the components.

The culprit is the control unit

Another possible reason why the car twitches when shifting gears is the malfunctioning of the carburetor control unit (in the English version, its name sounds like “emission control”). In this case, the nature of the shocks will be random. Calculating the real reason for their appearance can be quite difficult, since they are not constant, but only occasionally appear when driving. If you suspect that something is wrong with the car, we recommend that you contact a car service, make a diagnosis of all systems at the stand. Also on the lift it is easy to see that the car twitches at idle. The "movement" of the car with the wheels hanging usually helps not only to determine why the car is pushing, but also to track the "swimming" of the revolutions, which we already mentioned earlier. Often these two problems are connected, and only the quality work of auto mechanics helps to determine what is the cause. And the culprit here is the control unit (EPI). Unfortunately, in this case, in order to find the cause, it is necessary to create certain conditions for the operation of the car (delivery of revolutions of a specific value, a certain load), and it is unrealistic to fulfill all these conditions while driving. Due to driving on the road, the operation of the engine is constantly changing, and a twitching effect occurs.

Conclusion

So, we have described almost all the options for why the car twitches while driving. As you can see, there are a lot of reasons for such a movement, and without being an expert in automotive "stuffing", you are unlikely to be able to correct the situation. But there are also such moments when you cannot do without professional equipment, for example, this concerns diagnostics at idle. In any case, if you notice jolts or twitches while driving, do not leave it unattended and be sure to visit a car service. At the same time, pay attention to the reputation of the workshop, read reviews about it, visit the site so as not to fall for the bait of scammers. For many novice drivers, cleaning filters, for example, can cost a pretty penny, so ask about the cost of services in advance. It is also useful to ask friends. But be sure to remember: the operation of a car that twitches is not only inconvenient, but also dangerous, as it is fraught with an accident. Be careful and good luck on the roads!

Engine malfunctions and malfunctions can manifest themselves in different ways, starting with suspicious sounds coming from under the hood, leaks that remain on the pavement after a long stop, and ending with jerks while driving.

Jerks while driving can occur regardless of how you press the gas pedal, this occurs as a result of a short-term change in the speed of rotation of the crankshaft. Failures can occur not only during acceleration, but also when releasing gas, as well as with unchanged movement and the same position of the gas pedal. In order to understand why is the car jerking while driving the best and easiest way is to contact the specialists at the service station, because, most likely, you will also have to produce injection systems, and for this, as you understand, you need to have special equipment. In most cases, jerks while driving occur due to a violation of the pressure in the fuel rail, or as a result of a malfunction of the throttle position sensor (TPS).

The car twitches while driving - causes

Sometimes during the start of the movement, when you start off, a “failure” occurs, and often for beginners, this can even stall the engine. This effect occurs precisely at the moment when the throttle opens, when the engine goes from idle to load. In modern engines, the motor helps the driver, for the smoothness of the ECU, having received a signal from the TPS about the throttle position, it will increase the fuel supply. However, if the pressure in the fuel rail is low, there will still not be enough fuel.

Cause of jerks while driving may also consist in the electromechanical part of the throttle valve or. The cause of such contamination can also often be caused by a lack of pressure in the fuel rail. When you sharply press on the gas pedal in order to instantly accelerate, it opens very wide, while the ECU, having received a signal from the TPS about the damper position, without having the necessary pressure, is simply not able to provide the engine with the required amount of fuel.

In cars with automatic transmission, car jerks when accelerating due to a defective gearbox or, for example, due to too low oil level in it. Sometimes "jokes" with the box can occur after disconnecting the battery just before the trip, this phenomenon is "not fatal" and, as practice shows, it goes away by itself after several accelerations.

Often the reasons are quite banal, for example: the fuel pump mesh is clogged, etc. But I think that you, like most of us, checked this first, if not, then by all means do it.

The car twitches on the go - reasons

As a rule, such jerks occur due to a malfunction in the ignition system. However, if the trouble occurred on the road, you can try to fix the breakdown yourself. To do this, we do the following:

• Turn off the ignition, raise the hood and make sure that all high voltage wires are securely attached to the coil and spark plugs.
• Then start the engine and listen to the engine, listen for extraneous crackles or clicks. The point is to check if there are any "breakdowns to ground", that is, if the spark is leaving somewhere else besides the candle. This is best checked in the dark, then you will not only hear a crack, but also see how it hits, for example, on the body or somewhere else.

The situation when a relatively new car, obviously without any defects, troit along the way is known to experienced drivers of vehicles equipped with an injection system. Why does the car twitch when the injector moves, what are the reasons for this? This will be discussed in the article.

Diagnostics

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If the car is injection, then the cause should be sought in the injection system. Obviously, the problem itself will not disappear anywhere, you will have to diagnose the injector.

In principle, checking the injection system is not so difficult, but it is quite feasible only when the required technical devices are available. These include the following desired tools, without which it is not recommended to carry out competent diagnostics.

1. The compression gauge is a tool that effectively measures the compression in the engine cylinders.
2. A computer system with the option of testing the functioning of the internal combustion engine (a standard BC with this capability is also quite suitable).
3. The ohmmeter is designed to measure the current in the battery.
4. To measure the level of fuel pressure, you need a pressure gauge (it will help test problems with the regulator and fuel pump, it will make it possible to determine clogging in the filters).
5. Finally, the LED probe.

Despite the fact that the above tools are provided by the instructions, in some cases it is possible to manage in diagnostics only with the data obtained from the BC. The computer counts all the errors the moment the car starts. Moreover, a good BC model is able to do this efficiently and on a hot engine.

Therefore, the first and simplest thing that is done in diagnostics is that the BC is put into check mode or, if it is not provided in the car, a microcomputer is connected to the internal combustion engine. As a rule, the computer will give out a lot of data. They need to be able to decipher.

Injector cleaning

On the other hand, if the car starts normally, and jerking is detected only while driving, most likely, standard cleaning of the injector will help to solve the problem completely.

Before moving on to cleaning the injector (which, in fact, cannot be called a simple procedure), it is recommended to check the performance of the spark plugs. It may well be that it is because of them that the injector twitches.

If everything is in order with the candles, you need to proceed to further steps.

The clogging of the mechanism is different. Experts distinguish three stages:

• when the engine is not “buggy” when hot, it starts up normally, no jerking is observed;
• everything is the same, only already on a hot engine it does not work so stably, although there are no jerks yet, but tripling is observed, consumption increases, the exhaust system sneezes at startup;
• the third stage - it can no longer be overlooked, because the car is terribly troit, and no warming up helps.

The last stage is extremely dangerous, since the engine will soon come to an end if no action is taken.

flushing

Motorists who do not have the specialized knowledge of an auto mechanic should not even think about flushing the engine with their own hands. The procedure is recommended to be ordered at the service station, where experienced craftsmen will carry out all the necessary activities.

The danger of self-flushing is that, unknowingly, you can make it even worse. The engine is a delicate thing, and it is possible that after washing it will not start and work at all.

However, some owners, having seen 1-2 times how the masters do it, having familiarized themselves with the theory and practice, the next time they already cope with this matter on their own.

Flushing liquid

This is the first type of flushing the injection engine. The machine starts, but is disconnected from the power system. Then, flushing equipment is supplied to the motor, supplying liquid directly to the nozzles. This procedure is carried out on a hot motor, i.e., it functions along the way.

It is extremely important that the liquid does not get into the fuel tank, otherwise it will lead to sad consequences. Its composition is caustic, it easily decomposes deposits on the walls, which will eventually lead to severe clogging of the filter and pump. Will have to change them.

As for the type of flushing fluid, they are based on the following: the age of the machine and the degree of contamination. It is necessary to entrust the choice of flushing fluid to specialists who are faced with cleaning injection systems periodically and have already got their hands on it. They will be able to choose just such a composition that will not damage the motor.

Regarding the timing of the liquid flush, this is clearly indicated in the regulations. For every 30,000 km of run, carry out one flush.

Ultrasonic washing

An alternative to liquid flushing, more efficient. Only the procedure is much more complicated, since it is necessary to remove the nozzles, and then place them in the UU - an ultrasonic device.

CU is expensive, because the equipment must be of very high quality. It is better not to trust cheaper Chinese models. Only a specialist can work with the CU. If the flushing time is set incorrectly, the entire injection system of the car will go down the drain, and the car will not only stop twitching, but generally start up.

Thus, cleaning the injection system will improve engine performance. He will stop troiting and twitching, everything will be back to normal. However, it is better not to bring the situation to the clogging process at all. This can be avoided if you follow the standard rules for operating the vehicle specified in the manual. The main prohibited activities include towing, getting water into the system, and refueling at dubious gas stations.

Reading 5 min.

Does the car twitch when driving the injector or other reasons? Methods for diagnosing a problem, basic options for repairing or cleaning an injector

It often happens that a relatively new and at first glance completely serviceable car that starts well, when hot, twitches when driving. There can be a great many reasons for this behavior of a car, but there is one, which, perhaps, is the main one. Most likely, your vehicle has some kind of injection problem. By itself, the problem, of course, will not be solved and you will need to diagnose the injector.

Diagnosing an injector with your own hands is not a very difficult task, but this procedure is feasible only if you have the necessary technical devices. So what you need:

• Microcomputer with engine diagnostic function. An ordinary on-board computer with such capabilities is also suitable.
• Compressometer - the device is necessary for measuring compression in the cylinders.
• Manometer to measure fuel pressure. It is necessary to diagnose a malfunction of the pressure regulator, fuel pump, or clogged fuel filters.
• An ohmmeter is needed to measure the voltage in the battery.
• LED probe.

However, you can do without most of the above devices without problems. For high-quality diagnostics of the operation of the injector, an on-board computer is sufficient, which is able to read errors at the moment when the car starts up and is already hot.

So, we connect the microcomputer to the engine or put the on-board computer for verification and wait for the results. Chances are you'll get a lot of metrics. However, if the car twitches when it is hot and it is in motion and starts up normally, most likely nothing bad has happened to the injector. It just needs to be cleaned. However, if the diagnosis does not present any particular problems, then with its cleaning the situation is somewhat more complicated.

Injector cleaning.

First, of course, you should check the candles, however, if the car starts up normally and twitches when driving to a hot one, the problem is most likely not in them, but in the injection system. First, let's look at the stages of clogging the mechanism, there are three of them:

1. At this stage, you will not notice any changes. When the car is hot, it works perfectly, does not twitch and there seems to be no problem with the engine, which so far starts normally. Usually this stage almost always passes into the next.
2. While the car is still not twitching while driving, but the engine is already not working very stably when it is hot, it is possible that slight tweaks also increase gasoline consumption, the car sneezes when it starts.
3. The last stage, it is already impossible not to notice it. The car twitches noticeably when driving, warming up does not help, the engine also works disgustingly when it is hot. If you do not deal with the injector at this stage. Very soon, your car's engine will need more serious and expensive repairs.

Methods for flushing the injector

If you are not a professional auto mechanic, you should not even think about flushing the injector yourself. Otherwise, the car will not only stop twitching when hot, but will not start and drive at all.

However, one way or another, theoretical knowledge in the field of cleaning the injection mechanism still does not interfere. Having familiarized yourself with the theory, and having seen in practice how the masters do this procedure, next time you will cope with it on your own.

Liquid flush

So, the first on the list is the liquid cleaning of the injection mechanism. The car in this case starts, however, is disconnected from the fuel supply. Instead of a fuel supply hose, a special flushing system is connected to the engine, which supplies liquid to the nozzles. The washing procedure in this case is carried out, as they say, hot.

It is important that in this case the flush does not get into the gas tank, otherwise it will dissolve deposits on the machines. This will clog the fuel filter and pump and require replacement.

As for the choice of fluid, it all depends on the age of the car and the degree of contamination of the injection mechanism. The ideal option is to entrust the choice of flushing to professionals. Those who are faced with cleaning the injector daily will be able to choose exactly the composition that will not damage the engine. In general, maintenance in the form of such a liquid flush is ideally recommended for all relatively new cars for every 30,000 kilometers.

ultrasonic washing

A more powerful alternative to fluid is an ultrasonic engine flush. In this case, the nozzles are dismantled and placed in an ultrasonic device. Further, it remains only to set the required flushing time, everything else will happen automatically. The device for ultrasonic cleaning of the injector itself is quite expensive, and you can only know it in a good service. The main thing is that a professional is engaged in washing in this case. If you choose the wrong time, the injector will be damaged and the car will stop not only twitching hot, but also start.

What to choose

There should be no problems with the choice in matters of cleaning the injector. It all depends solely on the age and general condition of the car. If there are no serious problems - the car does not twitch, it starts well, and the engine runs stably hot, choose washing with liquid chemistry. With the first and second stages of pollution in this way, you can handle it without problems.

If the car twitches, then it's time to resort to heavy artillery in the form of ultrasonic washing. However, first it is necessary to carry out a qualified diagnosis of the car and exclude other reasons for the unstable operation of the engine when it is hot.

For example, candles or an idle speed sensor. In about 90% of cases, the problem, as it turns out, is in these spare parts, and flushing the injector is not needed at all. How to perform diagnostics is described in detail above.

Proper operation of the injector

There are some simple tips, however, if you follow them clearly, you will not encounter the fact that the car twitches while driving, and the injector will always be in good condition:

• Never remove the terminals from the battery while the engine is running, this can lead to errors in the operation of the injector.
• If you have a converter installed, it is forbidden to start the engine with a tug.
• Make sure that water does not get into the injection system - this is guaranteed to lead to failure of the injectors, fuel pump and filter.
• Again, if a catalytic converter and an L-probe are installed, it is forbidden to refuel with leaded gasoline. This can lead to incorrect operation of the electronic control unit and re-enrichment of the injector with a combustible mixture.
• And the most important thing. Never refuel with questionable gasoline, it happens that the car twitches precisely from it. Bad fuel leads to contamination of the fuel filter, pump, and as a result, the injection system.

The jerking of the car during acceleration can be caused by various reasons. In most cases, to identify this phenomenon, it is enough to simply check and listen to the operation of certain machine components. However, regardless of the reasons for this “behavior” of the car, it is necessary to fix the malfunction as quickly as possible, otherwise there is a possibility of more serious problems.

Dips and jerks on the carburetor engine

If the car twitches during acceleration and further revs, and there are dips when you press the "gas" pedal, it is first of all recommended:

• Check or replace air and fuel filters. If they are heavily contaminated, the supply of air and fuel is complicated, which can lead to jerks.
• Unstable flow of fuel into the float chamber, which is usually associated with problems in the operation of the fuel pump. Its replacement allows you to solve the problem with the jerks of the machine.
• Fuel supply under insufficient pressure. Checking the fuel pressure is carried out by connecting a pressure gauge to the fitting on the fuel line (a piece of hose is used for this). With the engine running, the pressure in the fuel line should not exceed 3 kgf/cm2.

If the pressure does not correspond to this indicator, then the cause of the defect must be sought in the following vehicle components: fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter or fuel pump.

The causes of “failures” (when you press the gas pedal, the car refuses to accelerate) and the jerks that accompany this are often:

• The ignition coil, together with high-voltage wires, which, due to long-term operation and wear, begin to “break through”, as a result of which the engine begins to triple. The solution to the problem is to replace the wires and coils.
• Spark plug. They cause jerks of the car as a result of the appearance of strong soot on them and poor contact with the wires.

Checking high voltage wires

To check the condition of the high-voltage wire, it is necessary to remove its tip, suitable for the spark plug. Inside the winding there is a central core, which should fit as closely as possible to the so-called. a metal penny placed in the tip of the wire.

This penny is designed to transmit current to the spark plug, and if there is no contact between the wire and the nickel, then the current may not flow, resulting in tripling. The main reason for the “failure” of the wire is its oxidation.

Checking for the fact of oxidation of the wire is carried out using the second probe of the multimeter, which must be touched to the central core of the high-voltage wire. If burnout is observed along the entire length, then the damaged area is determined by piercing the wire every 5-10 mm using a special multimeter tip. The damaged section, if the length of the wire allows it, is simply cut off, in other cases, the entire high-voltage wire is changed.

Causes of jerks on injection engines

Injection engines, compared to carburetor options, have better technical and operational characteristics. However, they also have a more complex design, so the reasons that cause the car to jerk during acceleration can be much greater than for cars equipped with carburetors.

A feature of the injector is the presence of an electronic control unit for the fuel supply system, which is regulated using various sensors. Vehicle jerks predominantly cause problems with the following sensors:

• Mass air flow sensor.
• Throttle position sensor.
• Crankshaft position sensor (DPKV) - problems with this sensor are considered the most “unpleasant”, since its failure leads to the injector stopping, respectively, the ability to start the car is completely excluded.

The DPKV is checked by connecting an automotive oscilloscope to it. If the sensor is working, then clear pulses of the injector will be displayed on the screen of the device. In the absence of pulses or their blurring, it is necessary to promptly replace/repair the sensor. It is also desirable to perform an additional check on the operation of other controllers, which may allow you to determine the malfunction of the oxygen sensor or, for example, the electric injector valve, which can also lead to jerking of the car.

The causes of jerks in injection machines, as for carbureted vehicles, can be problems in the ignition system (plugs, ignition coil, high-voltage wires), as well as fuel system malfunctions (clogged fuel injectors and filter).

Another common cause of car jerks is the use of low-quality fuel. Such fuel leads to the formation of a lean mixture, the characteristics of which are not enough for stable and high-quality engine operation.

In most cases, it is possible to eliminate the problem of car jerking during acceleration quite quickly, the main thing is to start repair work in a timely manner and prevent more serious malfunctions.