Each new generation of drivers is wondering if it is worth warming up the car before setting off, especially after a long idle car.
Many security professionals environment believe that if the car is in the parking lot, then it’s worth moving off immediately after starting the car. So less poisonous gases will be released into the atmosphere.
We can agree with environmentalists, especially considering that when driving, the engine warms up faster and fuel is burned more efficiently. However, it is worth noting that this method can affect the health of the engine, and not for the better.
Auto companies reassure car owners, believing that after they start the car, they need to go right away, since everything was calculated at the factory and the engine can work quite normally in this mode.
In fact, it means the operation of the engine for a while warranty period. After that, they are not responsible for the car.
Whether to warm up the car
Both in summer and winter, if you start the car and immediately go, the engine life is significantly reduced.
It is worth clarifying that for the most part, the operating temperature of car engines is 90 degrees or higher. That's the temperature they're designed for. This temperature allows the engine oil to better lubricate the gaps between the rubbing parts of the machine.
Even if it is +25 C outside, this is not enough for oil, which means that the engine still needs to be warmed up. Well, even more so in winter.
Ultimately, the answer to main question simple: you need to warm up the car.
Regarding the indignation of environmentalists, it is worth saying that in big city, where there are a lot of cars, the main air pollutants are not exhausts, but dust from the rubber of the wheels, which is erased on the asphalt, and abraded pads.
And in rural areas, warming up the car does little harm at all.
Interesting fact: Erwin Rommel, a German field marshal and allegedly one of the conspirators of the assassination attempt on Hitler, always demanded that the troops warm up the engines for 10 minutes.
This rule even extended when he commanded troops in the deserts of Africa. As a result, his motorized troops showed, on average, a lower percentage of breakdowns compared to other troops.
Warming up the car in winter
How long does it take to warm up the engine?
If you are relatively new car, then it does not need to warm up for a long time. The average warm-up time is 3-5 minutes. It is worth noting that while driving, the engine warms up faster.
How long to warm up the car
* If the outside temperature from +5 to 0 С, then the warm-up time is 1-2 minutes.
* At air temperature from 0 to -10 C, engine warm-up time 2-3 minutes. Behind given time all technical fluids will have time to warm up.
But to warm up the interior of the car at this temperature, you need 5 minutes or even a little more.
* If outdoors from -10 to -20 С, then it is worth warming up the car 3-5 minutes. In such a frost, the windows of the car freeze, which means that it will take a few more minutes to defrost them. Nai the best option ohm will warm up the engine first, and then start defrosting the windows.
* If the air temperature below -20 C, then it is worth warming up the engine at least 5 minutes, maybe a little longer. This time depends on technical condition cars. More modern car- Less warm-up time.
In this case, the interior should be warmed up from 10 minutes or more.
Do I need to warm up the car (video)
How to warm up the car (video)
Warming up a diesel car
The best option is to warm up the engine in winter - from 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the air temperature. The colder it is outside, the longer it takes to warm up.
In summer, the diesel engine warm-up time is 1-2 minutes.
After warming up (at an engine temperature of 40-50 degrees), the oil liquefies, the parts in the engine heat up, and the fuel in the cylinders burns out completely.
When you have warmed up the engine, start a smooth movement. While driving, the engine warms up faster to the desired temperature.
It is also worth noting that it is worth warming up not only the engine, but also the transmission. This applies to an automatic transmission, where special gear oil is poured.
Automatic transmission warming up
Warm up automatic box gear is necessary so that it lasts longer. To warm it up you should:
1. Warm up the engine.
2. After the engine has warmed up, apply the brakes and put the transmission into "Drive" mode (D).
3. Wait 2 minutes.
4. Start moving smoothly and start moving several kilometers at a speed of no more than 50 km/h.
How to warm up the automatic transmission
How to warm up a car with automatic transmission (video)
The engine will be fully warmed up when all its parts and working fluids reach operating temperatures, that is, with a fixed mode of operation, they stop changing. The coolant warms up the fastest - this is the process that we see by changing the position of the arrow on the temperature gauge. It also warms up the details of the upper part of the engine (pistons, cylinders, head) - the pace is almost the same. But the oil in the pan heats up much more slowly. Where is this visible? Who has on-board computer, I probably noticed that even after reaching the normal temperature of the coolant, fuel consumption at idle may decrease for some time. This is just due to the slow warming up of the oil. And finally, the converter heats up the longest, and with it the toxicity of the exhaust gases reaches the working level. But all warm-up rates depend on the engine operating mode.
RESISTANCE TO MOVEMENT
Why doesn't the engine like frost? main reason that any engine oil thickens in the cold. And at certain temperatures it can stop flowing altogether. Mineral oils - already at minus 20 ... 25 ° С, the best synthetics - at minus 45 ... 55 ° С. As a result, the friction units work "dry", the power of mechanical losses increases sharply, which require excess gasoline. But when the motor comes out faster normal level mechanical loss? If you stand and warm yourself, or if you go on the road immediately after launch? This will give an answer to the question of economy - after all, extra losses require additional fuel.
Let's check how much fuel a conventional injection engine eats with the same mileage, but different warm-up algorithms. A little about the patient. Net "European" 2005 release, 1.6 liters of working volume, declared as Euro-4. He spent his entire conscious life in Russia, but, apart from Maintenance, nothing was done in it. So, three warm-up programs. The first option is "grandfather's": fully warm up the engine and only after that go. The second - according to the instructions of modern cars: "let it go and go." And the third one is the one that can most often be found: they started up, brushed off the snow, waved a shovel (in general, they pulled time), and we warm up the car already on the trip. On the street - minus 15. The battery is good, in the pallet - expensive synthetics. Mileage - from parking to work: it's about 5 kilometers, and without traffic jams! You can dream...
So, option 1. Let's start. The tachometer needle is set at "1200", the computer shows an instantaneous fuel consumption of 2.5 l / h. After a minute, the flow rate drops to 1.9 liters, after 10 minutes - to 0.9 liters. At the same time, the visible changes on the on-board computer end - the arrow on the temperature gauge does not even reach 50 degrees and stands up tightly. For reliability, we wait another 10 minutes - fuel consumption decreases to 0.8 l / h, which is still more than the usual 0.6 observed when the entire engine is fully warmed up. best result can not be reached - let's go! We are driving in fixed mode, third gear, 50 km/h, there are no traffic lights on the road. Consumption on the computer - 6.4 ... 6.6 l / 100 km. In total, they spent 0.45 liters on warming up, about 0.33 liters on the road. Total - about 0.8 liters.
Option 2- sat down, wound up and immediately drove off. The car did not like it very much, and for a start it gave out a flow rate of more than 10 liters. Then he began to decline rapidly, but due to a short run, he did not crawl to the previous 6.5 - he stopped at 6.8 liters. Total spent only 0.45 liters. Plus saving 20 minutes of precious time. Savings, it seems, are there, but it seems impressive only at low runs.
Option 3- after starting, the engine was warmed up for 5 minutes, while the ice was scraped off the windows. We started with an idle consumption of 1.3 l / h. The beginning of the run was marked by the figure of 7.6 l / 100 km, by the end of the race they returned to 6.6. Total, taking into account the mileage - 0.55 liters. Better than the first, but slightly worse than the second.
IMPACT ON THE ENVIRONMENT
It is clear that the unwillingness of automakers to warm the car is not caused at all by concern for our wallet. The main argument is ecology. After all, modern toxicity standards Euro-4 and above impose severe restrictions on the content of toxic components in starting modes and during the warm-up period. So let's see what will happen to the toxicity before the neutralizer (in professional slang it is called "raw") and after (this is "dry" toxicity).
So, the "raw" toxicity during cold start is very large. The reason is the need for a sharp enrichment of the air-fuel mixture. The fuel should be evaporated, and with a large "minus" on the street, it does not really want to evaporate. And the air enters the cylinders cold, dense. This means that in order to compensate for the low volatility of the fuel and the low air temperature, much more gasoline must be poured. And what has not evaporated or evaporated already in the combustion process flies into the pipe. "TseO" and "TseAshi" - well, very big! And they must be pressed catalytic converters. But the trouble with most modern converters is that they work effectively only in a narrow range of temperatures and mixture composition. The temperature should be high, and the composition of the mixture should be stoichiometric, that is, there should be exactly as much air in it as is necessary for complete combustion fuel. Otherwise, the efficiency drops sharply.
It is curious that at low temperatures during the warm-up process, a higher concentration of toxic components can be observed behind the neutralizer than at the inlet! Where? Most likely, it hovers unburned gasoline on the first start-up cycles - it "sits" on the honeycombs active element catalyst. As it warms up, the efficiency of work increases, and, finally, the hot catalyst, with the working composition of the mixture, crushes almost all toxicity. In other words, in starting conditions and during warm-up, if a modern catalyst with external heating is not used, the toxicity of an engine with a converter will not differ too much from its earlier counterpart, which does not have one. Therefore, the main task is to bring the temperature of the active zone of the catalyst into the operating range as soon as possible.
The converter is heated by the flow of exhaust gases, and the faster, the greater their consumption and temperature. But when the process has begun in it, it begins to warm up itself - the afterburning of toxic components proceeds with the release of energy. Therefore, the temperature in the active zone of the operating catalyst is higher than that of the exhaust gases. Our experiment showed that even with normal temperature in box, at minimum speed idle move, the neutralizer does not enter the operating mode! Especially in the cold. Therefore, it will not work to suppress toxicity in the warm-up mode, if you warm up the engine in the parking lot: it means you need to move.
What is the difference in emissions? The initial content of CH is very high, under 1000 ppm, which, however, is expected. As the engine warms up, it begins to slowly decrease. But even after 20 minutes of warm-up, when the temperature of the coolant has already reached the operating level, the content of residual hydrocarbons remains high - about 180 ppm. - it warmed up, but the converter is cold, it works inefficiently.
Now we are trying to warm up the motor immediately under load, simulating the second warm-up option. The beginning is the same, but the pace is different: at the end of the race, the output was somewhere around 15…20 ppm. The neutralizer worked! It looks like there is an answer...
But not everything is so simple! We looked at the relative concentrations of toxic components, but we breathe in their absolute values, that is, not in “peeps”, but in grams and kilograms! That is, these concentrations must be multiplied by the consumption of exhaust gases. At idle during warm-up, it was about 15 kg / h, but when driving, if taken on average, it will be about 80! We multiply one by the other and we get: when warming up in the parking lot, along with the further road, we rewarded nature with a number of grams of residual hydrocarbons, almost twice as much as when driving immediately after launch (4.5 grams versus 2.8).
But the third option - when we warmed up a little, and then went - gave an even greater reduction in the absolute emission of CH: up to 2.1 grams. By the way, in this variant, when driving for 5 km, we threw out a little more than a gram of CH, which is close to the Euro-4 standards.
The figures are very indicative and generally understandable. When driving on a cold engine, we work for a long time at high toxicity, while the consumption of exhaust gases is high. And blowing the converter with cold air while driving also slows down its warming up. When warming up in the parking lot, the converter does not reach its normal mode, but when you start driving at high costs, it quickly begins to effectively extinguish toxicity. And with a short initial warm-up, the engine doesn’t have time to pretty much “harm” even in the parking lot, and when warming up in motion, it works much better: after all, it has already gained some kind of temperature. Here is the result.
But what we did not take into account. A car stinking in a parking lot envelops the space around it with a cloud of smoke, and it is disgusting to live there ... And a moving one, as it were, blurs its “good” over space. Globally - it turns out comparable, and at a single point - the damage from one moving car is several times less. But after all, one or two carriages are puffing at the same time in the parking lot, and crowds of them are crawling along the road ...
DEATH TO THE MOTOR...
Only the lazy did not write about the fact that it grows sharply during start-up and warm-up. Not so long ago, a bearded professor from the screen convinced the people that one cold start equals 100 kilometers! Of course, he knows better, but we would never give such EXACT figures - they are completely different. And the motors are different, and the temperatures overboard, and the oils poured into the sump, and the mileage with which they are compared can also be either outside the city or in city traffic jams. Therefore, in our opinion, the equivalent of 20 to 200 km is more fair: the main thing is the trend. And it is important that movement without warming up does not allow engine parts to prepare to receive heavy loads. They have a bad time - and not only bearings.There is such a detail in the motor - a piston, and grooves are cut on its side surface so that piston rings put. So, these grooves are the most sensitive to loads and are the first to collapse when they become excessive. And this is exactly the situation here. If you immediately start and even skid a little, getting out of a snowdrift, the load on the motor will immediately become large. Heat flows from the working fluid quickly heat up the piston bottom, and the groove zone touches the cold cylinder, which is slightly warmer than antifreeze. There are large temperature differences, and with them - exorbitant stresses. And a piston without grooves is no longer a piston ... And the better the engine warms up, the less danger of such a disaster.
But what about automakers? They know everything, but frankly, they don't care. The motor must go out of warranty, then be sold and shipped somewhere in the third world. Otherwise, the market will overstock. Recommendations dance from there - ecology is primary, savings are also somewhere out there, and the resource - who is interested in it?
STILL WARM!
We believe that the third option is the most preferable. And in terms of fuel economy, it is acceptable, and in terms of toxicity, it is generally the best. The preheated engine is ready to take on loads and well protected from wear. By the way, in fact, we most often follow this recommendation: the engine heats up while the windows are scraped off and snow is swept away ...And one more thing ... Suddenly you have to rev sharply on a completely cold engine - you never know how the situation on the road will turn out? And here it’s easy to fly into a very bad situation - the valves can hang and meet the piston, or crank crankshaft. And any service station will write it off for improper operation of the engine. Therefore - to refuse a guarantee! For many motors, a corresponding lock in the engine control program saves from such situations, but not everyone has it. But a pre-warmed engine will carry such a mockery without consequences.
In general, warm! Just a little bit faster...
In the yard of the XXI century, the operation of an automobile engine has long been controlled by a computer that regulates the supply of fuel and ignition, depending on external conditions. But most motorists did not have time to rebuild after the progress, making mistakes when warming up the engine in the cold season. Methods of starting and warming up in frost, relevant 20 years ago, for modern engines useless and sometimes harmful.
Can't warm up
There is a widespread belief that modern car engines do not need to warm up before driving. It's a delusion. Warming up the engine is necessary, driving on a cold engine will not lead to good.
“In service cards for all types of engines and at all times there is a clear indication: warming up the engine is necessary to achieve operating clearances between parts and bring technical liquids to the given viscosity values. The engine is made of different metals, which have different indicators of temperature deformation. The design of the engine is designed for operation in a given temperature range, which is achieved by warming up the engine at idle, ”says engineer Sergei Kolchin.
Running the engine without warming up can cause serious engine damage.
It takes 5-10 minutes to warm up a modern engine. Photo: Elena Ivanova
You can not warm the engine "by temperature"
Traditionally, Russian drivers control the warming up of a car engine according to the readings of a temperature sensor. Most modern engines internal combustion have operating temperature at 90 degrees. But this approach is wrong. For a car enthusiast, he can turn around excessive spending fuel for heating and a significant loss of time.
“It is possible to warm up a car at idle to 90 degrees at a temperature of minus 20. But it will take 30-40 minutes. It is not advisable to waste fuel and time on such warming up, ”says auto mechanic Vitaly Loginov.
Engine oil thickens at low temperatures. Mineral loses viscosity at a temperature of 15-20 degrees below zero, "semi-synthetics" at 25-30 degrees below zero. thick oil adversely affects the operation of the internal combustion engine.
“The oil in the engine performs three functions at once: lubrication of rubbing surfaces, removal of wear products and cooling of moving parts. In the case of negative temperatures, the last two points are not relevant. Cool cold engine not necessary, and wear in this mode is negligible. But there is not enough lubrication for the engine, because of this, the friction force increases, ”says Vitaly Loginov.
High friction forces lead to high flow fuel. Almost all modern cars have on-board computers that display consumption indicators. Vitaly Loginov advises heating the car "according to consumption."
"A car with an engine power of up to 100 Horse power idling consumes 0.8-0.9 liters of fuel per hour. When starting a cold engine, this figure is usually 2.7-3 liters per hour. To enter the engine into operating mode, it is enough to warm it up to normal values. Waiting for warming up to 90 degrees is a waste of time and gasoline,” says Vitaly Loginov.
Running "cold" disables the engine. Photo: pixabay.com
Do not "gas" during warm-up
Some motorists try to speed up the warming up of the car by increasing the engine speed. But you can’t “gas” with a cold engine.
“All gaps in the engine are designed for a certain oil viscosity, at low temperatures the viscosity of the lubricant increases, and it is not able to flow between the rubbing surfaces. Parts are working oil starvation. What leads to them increased wear”, - says Vitaly Loginov.
Moreover, wear in this case is sharp, almost explosive. The rings on the pistons may fail, and scuffs and nicks form on the cylinder mirror, which can only be corrected during overhaul engine.
The engine must be warmed up at idle, without touching the gas pedal. In this case, the output to the operating mode will pass without consequences.
Oil heaters must not be used
Some motorists use so-called oil heaters to start the engine during the cold period. This device is a heating element, which is installed in the hole oil dipstick and connects to car battery. It is assumed that this device warms up the oil, returns it to fluidity and simplifies warming up. But it's just marketing ploy. These devices do more harm than good.“Oil heaters do not solve the problems of starting and warming up the engine in winter period. The power of these devices rarely exceeds 20-30 watts, which is clearly not enough to warm up 3.5-4 liters of oil in a cold engine at a temperature of minus 20. In some cases, the temperature of the heater is so high that the oil on its surface begins to burn, while the entire volume remains cold,” says Vitaly Loginov.
Can't touch hard
There is oil not only in the engine, but also in the gearbox. It also thickens at low temperatures and processes occur in the box, similar to those in the engine. After warming up the engine, the oil in the box remains cold. Therefore, it is impossible to move sharply. Mechanics advise a smooth start and movement at a speed of no more than 10 km / h for the first 300-400 meters. This is quite enough for the oil in the box to begin to perform its functions.
Despite the openness of the question of the need to warm up the engine in winter time, it should be noted that for an unheated engine, such important indicator like wear resistance. Also at low temperature regime oil thickens. This, of course, makes it difficult for the oil to get to the parts. As a result, the running gear starts to work with lower quality.
It turns out that the car in the winter should definitely be warmed up. Then it will serve for a long time. Vehicles that are 10 years old or older also require longer warm-up periods. Modern models just a few minutes are enough for the engine to reach the required performance. To finally close the question of the need for winter warming vehicle, sum up the arguments for:
- oil loses its beneficial features at low temperatures. Since it thickens, there is no high-quality lubrication of parts;
- fuel consumption rises. This is a natural reaction to air-fuel mixture and the environment vary greatly in temperature;
- cold causes gaps to wear out. They deviate from the norm and high speed wear out;
- visibility is reduced. This is not surprising, because the glass is covered with a layer of frost, and, consequently, the risk of an accident increases.
Warm up the engine properly
Improper heating of the engine will drastically reduce its resource. That is why the approach in this matter should be balanced and competent. It is necessary to firmly, in the mode once and for all, learn the procedure for warming up the car. The operation algorithm is as follows:
- We always start with the battery. It should not lose its properties due to frost. To load the battery, it is enough to turn on the light for 10-15 seconds headlights. During this time, the electrolyte will be able to warm up sufficiently;
- disable high beam for 30 seconds to restore the battery;
- engine warm-up process experienced drivers they know that you can speed it up if you close the radiator from the outside, for example, by throwing felt on it;
- now we start the engine;
- at manual transmission you should "drown" the clutch pedal and hold it for 2 minutes to warm up the oil;
- if the car, after the operations, did not start, then we take a pause of 2 minutes. This is necessary to restore the battery. Be sure to control this moment - the starter should not rotate for more than 20 seconds. Excessive zeal in this situation is completely inappropriate. In the event that the car did not start again, it is necessary to proceed to troubleshooting;
- if the engine starts up safely and quickly, turn on the stove immediately. Warm air fill the salon and go to the district windshield. This will save you from microcracks that appear between the car body and the windshield;
- for some time the movement should occur at a speed of no more than 40 km / h. The engine must be allowed to warm up properly. After 5 km. the road functions of the car will be fully prepared for normal speed.
Do not fall for common misconceptions in the driver's environment
The environment of motorists gives rise to many harmful myths. They do not know where they come from and are very persistent, one might say that even very briskly, they spread. Engine warm-up issues, unfortunately, are no exception. We have collected these myths and will try to debunk them:
- Exposure 1. There is a pseudo-correct opinion that warming up a car at idle causes high flow fuel. Nobody argues that there will be an overrun. But only in the case when the car warms up for 30 minutes. And for 3 minutes of warming up, the consumption is minimal. This will more than pay off with properly working mechanisms;
- Exposure 2. A number of drivers are sure that warming up the engine is harmful. As a result, tar deposits form on the valves. This is not entirely true. And this raid will not disable the engine. But in an unheated car, turbines break. The harm is obvious;
- Exposure 3. And without warming up the engine in winter, you can safely drive. Also a harmful myth. Very quickly, with this approach, the piston becomes unusable. And poor evaporation of the fuel will lead to condensation and, as a result, corrosion. In addition, condensate containing a large number of sulfur falls into machine oil. This destroys the filters.
It is important to remember that in principle the engine warm-up scheme should not change, depending on how the fuel is supplied. This refers to using a carburetor or injector.
When the engine of a car starts, which uses diesel fuel as a fuel, it should be remembered that it is produced in 3 types:
- summer fuel - ambient temperature from +1;
- winter fuel - ambient temperature from 0 to -30;
- arctic fuel - for northern latitudes.
The inability to start the car is often caused by the use of summer fuel in winter.
Summing up
A competent, patient and thorough approach to the problem of warming up a car in the cold season can certainly significantly extend the life of the engine. And this is not surprising, because the mechanisms will not be subject to rapid and inefficient wear. At the same time, it should be remembered that a measure is also needed in this matter. When warming up the engine, do not get carried away, otherwise you can overdo it.
If your car has an on-board computer, then it will not be difficult at all to determine the moment when the warm-up process should be completed. When electronics are absent, but present carburetor motor, then the heating of the oil is monitored by the arrow of the temperature sensor. It will be visually visible how it will move. This will lower the idle speed. The complete completion of the engine warm-up process is indicated by raising the temperature to 50 degrees. Do not get carried away and do not try to sharply increase the speed. This is not recommended. Acceleration competently gain only after the coolant warms up to at least 80 degrees.
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04.12.2017, 22:49 43449 1 Assembly of Motorists
One of the most discussed topics among motorists is necessity. This issue is relevant for power plants with turbine and "aspirated" equally. Almost all drivers are divided into two camps - those who warm up the car, and those who consider it a waste of fuel and time.
Question do you need to warm up diesel engine winter manufacturers today give an unequivocal answer - "the engine does not need to warm up." It is worthwhile to understand what this assertion is based on. Why did the same manufacturers earlier advise warming up the engines, but now they have dramatically changed their point of view.
Many manufacturers automotive engines claim that their products are so perfect that they work flawlessly even without warming up. They begin to explain that earlier engines were primitive, and mineral oil, that scientific and technological progress does not stand still. Well, they don’t say about the water that it was wetter.
Where is the dog actually buried? First, it is not profitable for manufacturers to have the engine run longer than the warranty period. How faster car becomes unusable, the faster the owner will buy new car. Sales of spare parts and repairs are additional sources of income for corporations. Why waste this profit? Therefore, it is beneficial for manufacturers to tell fables that "ultra-reliable" modern diesels do not require warming up.
The second reason why experts from big companies it is not advised to warm up the engines - concern for the environment. During the time that the diesel engine warms up, a large amount of exhaust gases. In cities, it is not uncommon for the owner to warm up the car for 30 minutes in order to drive 10 minutes to work. In Europe questions environmental safety ahead of economic viability. We have the opposite. We're not saying this is good or bad, we're just stating the facts.
Interestingly, the same experts confirm that the main wear of engine parts (about 75%) occurs at the time of a cold start. That is, they know that it is not useful for the motor to work while it is cold, but they are not advised to warm it up either. Weird and incomprehensible.
Theory of warming up a diesel engine in winter
Engines are made of metal. Pistons are usually made of light aluminum alloys, cylinders are made of steel or cast iron. When heated and cooled, these parts expand or contract respectively. All engine components are precision engineered to ensure minimum clearance between piston and cylinder. This is the key to efficient use of fuel energy.
When the engine is cold, the clearances between the pistons and cylinders do not correspond to the design parameters. Until the temperature rises to the operating level, the motor does not work in the mode as provided by the manufacturer. If full load is given, the wear of parts will increase, which will lead to a reduction in the working life or an accident.
In addition to the thermal expansion factor, there is another problem. Oil viscosity. This parameter greatly affects the operation of the engine. If the grease thickens in the cold, it cannot fully lubricate the parts, which leads to an increase in the friction force in all pairs. Wear increases many times if the engine is running under load.
Obviously, driving with a cold diesel engine is not best idea. Another question arises: Can this be done on idling? What is the optimal duration? Let's figure it out together.
How long does it take to warm up a diesel engine in winter
There is no consensus on this issue among the "diesel producers". This camp is arguing about how much to warm up a diesel engine in winter as well as among owners of cars with gasoline engines.
Warm up to victory
Some car owners believe that diesel engine necessary warm idle until the coolant temperature rises to 70°C. Another option is until the speed drops to idle. The feasibility of such an approach seems doubtful. Let's figure it out.
Because of design features diesel engine heats up less at idle than gasoline engine, the whole car warms up worse. To achieve a noticeable increase in temperature winter have to fulfill diesel engine warm-up within 30 - 40 minutes. During this time, a significant amount of fuel is consumed. For example: a three-liter diesel engine will “burn” about 200 ml of fuel in 20 minutes of warming up at idle.
Noticeable rise in temperature power plant occurs in the first two minutes after launch. There has been very little progress since then. Should fuel and time be wasted for a small improvement in performance? Doubtful.
Warm, but without fanaticism
Other drivers to the question " how to warm up a diesel engine in winter", answer briefly and clearly:" with the mind. In their opinion, it is enough to let the engine run for a couple of minutes to warm up the oil in the crankcase, and then start moving. The main thing is not to give the engine a full load until its temperature rises to the optimum level. You can monitor this indicator by the coolant sensor.
Proponents of this method warming up a diesel engine in winter It is believed that the engine warms up faster in motion. Also, when the car is moving, the transmission heats up more actively and chassis. Everything looks reasonable.
Objectively: how to properly warm up a diesel engine in winter
From a technical point of view, warming up a diesel engine in winter vital. Considering technical features and the mechanics of the car systems, you can figure out how to warm up diesel engines.
The engine at low temperatures should be started with a full supply of fuel. Clutch pressed out. Running engine warms up within two to three minutes. The crankshaft speed rises gradually to the average. When the device shows that the coolant has heated up to 40 ° C, it means that the engine is ready for loads.
To make it easier to start a diesel engine, you need to turn on the glow plugs several times. These devices are built into the design of modern diesel engines. power units. They help warm the air entering the combustion chamber. In a diesel engine, ignition occurs as a result of heating of a highly compressible in the cylinder fuel-air mixture. Warm air will make starting easier.
What do we get when executing such an algorithm for warming up a diesel engine? In the first two minutes after starting the engine, the oil in the crankcase is warm enough to fully lubricate piston-cylinder group. A smooth start of movement helps to warm up the transmission lubricant, “develop” the suspension. On the move, the diesel warms up faster. Fuel consumption is reduced. After 5 minutes of movement, you can turn on the passenger compartment heater, which will accelerate the heating of the engine.
From the point of view of the operation of the engine, "hodovka" and other car systems, this method is the most logical. Practical observations show effectiveness this method. The gentle start-up mode helps protect the diesel engine from breakdown in frosty weather.
How to warm up a diesel engine with a turbine in winter
Recommendations for turbocharged diesel engines are no different from those for atmospheric counterparts. In the same way, you should start the engine, warm it up for a few minutes, and start moving from low speed in first gear. The duration of warming up on the go is about 5 minutes, during this time use no higher than third gear. Control the heating of the diesel engine by the temperature of the coolant.
A good result is obtained by the use of special preheaters. Also, it will not be out of place to make life easier for your engine by using special additives - antigels. They don't allow diesel fuel thicken in the cold. Many car owners have difficulty starting diesel engines precisely because of the thickened fuel. It is especially difficult in winter if the car is filled with summer diesel fuel.
We have tried to give a complete answer to the questions why and how to warm up a diesel engine in winter. We hope you can do correct conclusions to protect the "heart" of your car from breakdowns on frosty days.
