Do-it-yourself ICE at home. How to make a Stirling engine at home? External combustion engines

The Stirling engine, once famous, was forgotten for a long time due to the widespread use of another engine ( internal combustion). But today we hear more and more about him. Maybe he has a chance to become more popular and find his place in new modification in modern world?

Story

The Stirling engine is heat engine, which was invented in the early nineteenth century. The author, as you know, was a certain Stirling named Robert, a priest from Scotland. The device is an external combustion engine, where the body moves in a closed container, constantly changing its temperature.

Due to the spread of another type of motor, it was almost forgotten. Nevertheless, thanks to its advantages, today the Stirling engine (many amateurs build it at home with their own hands) is back again.

The main difference from an internal combustion engine is that the heat energy comes from outside, and is not generated in the engine itself, as in an internal combustion engine.

Principle of operation

You can imagine a closed air volume enclosed in a housing having a membrane, that is, a piston. When the body is heated, the air expands and does work, thus arching the piston. Then cooling occurs, and it bends again. This is the cycle of the mechanism.

No wonder that thermoacoustic engine Do-it-yourself Stirling is made by many at home. The tools and materials for this require the very minimum that everyone has in their home. Let's look at two different ways how easy it is to create.

Work materials

To make a Stirling engine with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• tin;
• steel spoke;
• brass tube;
• hacksaw;
• file;
• wooden stand;
• metal scissors;
• fastener details;
• soldering iron;
• soldering;
• solder;
• machine.

This is all. The rest is a matter of simple technique.

How to do

A firebox and two cylinders for the base are prepared from tin, of which the Stirling engine, made by hand, will consist. Dimensions are selected independently, taking into account the purposes for which this device is intended. Suppose the motor is being made for demonstration purposes. Then the sweep of the main cylinder will be from twenty to twenty-five centimeters, no more. The rest of the parts should fit in with it.

At the top of the cylinder for moving the piston, two protrusions and holes with a diameter of four to five millimeters are made. The elements will act as bearings for the location of the crank device.

Next do working body motor (they will become plain water). Tin circles are soldered to the cylinder, which is rolled up into a pipe. Holes are made in them and brass tubes are inserted from twenty-five to thirty-five centimeters in length and with a diameter of four to five millimeters. At the end, they check how tight the chamber has become by filling it with water.

Next comes the turn of the displacer. For manufacturing, a blank is taken from wood. On the machine, they achieve that it takes the form of a regular cylinder. The displacer should be slightly smaller than the cylinder diameter. The optimal height is selected after the Stirling engine is made by hand. Therefore, at this stage, the length should assume some margin.

The spoke is turned into a cylinder rod. In the center of the wooden container, make a hole suitable for the stem, insert it. In the upper part of the rod, it is necessary to provide a place for the connecting rod device.

Then they take copper tubes four and a half centimeters long and two and a half centimeters in diameter. A circle of tin is soldered to the cylinder. On the sides on the walls, a hole is made to communicate the container with the cylinder.

The piston is also adjusted on a lathe to the diameter of the large cylinder from the inside. At the top, the rod is connected in a hinged way.

The assembly is completed and the mechanism is adjusted. To do this, the piston is inserted into the cylinder bigger size and connect the latter to another smaller cylinder.

On a large cylinder they build crank mechanism. Fix part of the engine with a soldering iron. The main parts are fixed on a wooden base.

The cylinder is filled with water and a candle is placed under the bottom. The Stirling engine, made by hand from start to finish, is checked for performance.

Second way: materials

The engine can be made in another way. For this you will need the following materials:

• tin;
• foam rubber;
• paperclips;
• disks;
• two bolts.

How to do

Foam rubber is very often used to make home simple not powerful engine Stirling by hand. A displacer for the motor is prepared from it. Cut out the foam circle. The diameter should be slightly smaller than tin can, and the height is slightly more than half.

A hole is made in the center of the cover for the future connecting rod. To make it go smoothly, the paper clip is rolled into a spiral and soldered to the lid.

The foam circle in the middle is pierced with a thin wire with a screw and fixed on top with a washer. Then connect a piece of paper clip by soldering.

The displacer is pushed into the hole on the lid and the jar is connected to the lid by soldering to seal. A small loop is made on the paper clip, and another, larger hole is made in the lid.

The tin sheet is rolled into a cylinder and soldered, and then attached to the can so that there are no gaps at all.

The paper clip is turned into a crankshaft. The spacing should be exactly ninety degrees. The knee above the cylinder is made slightly larger than the other.

The remaining paper clips turn into racks for the shaft. The membrane is made as follows: the cylinder is wrapped in a polyethylene film, pressed through and fastened with a thread.

The connecting rod is made from a paper clip, which is inserted into a piece of rubber, and the finished part is attached to the membrane. The length of the connecting rod is made such that at the lower shaft point the membrane is drawn into the cylinder, and at the highest point it is extended. The second part of the connecting rod is made in the same way.

Then one is glued to the membrane, and the other to the displacer.

Can legs can also be made from paper clips and soldered. For the crank, a CD is used.

Here is the whole mechanism. It remains only to substitute and light a candle under it, and then give a push through the flywheel.

Conclusion

Such low temperature engine Stirling (built with his own hands). Of course, on an industrial scale, such devices are manufactured in a completely different way. However, the principle remains the same: the air volume is heated and then cooled. And this is constantly repeated.

Finally, look at these drawings of the Stirling engine (you can do it yourself without any special skills). Maybe you are already on fire with the idea, and you want to do something similar?

Almost everything in our life depends on electricity, but there are certain technologies that allow us to get rid of local wired energy. Let's take a look at how to magnetic engine do-it-yourself, its principle of operation, scheme and device.

Types and principles of operation

There is a concept of perpetual motion machines of the first order and the second. First order are devices that produce energy by themselves, from the air, second type- these are engines that need to receive energy, it can be wind, sunlight, water, etc., and they already convert it into electricity. According to the first law of thermodynamics, both of these theories are impossible, but many scientists disagree with this statement, and they began the development of second-order perpetual motion machines powered by magnetic field energy.

Photo - Dudyshev's magnetic motor

Over the development perpetual motion machine"A huge number of scientists have worked at all times, the greatest contribution to the development of the theory of a magnetic motor was made by Nikola Tesla, Nikolai Lazarev, Vasily Shkondin, the variants of Lorentz, Howard Johnson, Minato and Perendev are also well known.

Photo - Lorenz magnetic motor

Each of them has its own technology, but they are all based on the magnetic field that is formed around the source. It is worth noting that "perpetual" motion machines do not exist in principle, because magnets lose their abilities after about 300-400 years.

The simplest is homemade a Lorenz anti-gravity magnetic thruster. It works at the expense of two differently charged disks that are connected to a power source. The discs are half placed in a hemispherical magnetic screen, the field of which they begin to gently rotate. Such a superconductor very easily pushes the magnetic field out of itself.

Protozoa asynchronous electromagnetic motor Tesla based on the principle of a rotating magnetic field, and is able to produce electricity from its energy. An insulated metal plate is placed as high as possible above ground level. Another metal plate is placed in the ground. The wire is passed through a metal plate on one side of the capacitor and the next conductor goes from the base of the plate to the other side of the capacitor. The opposite pole of the capacitor, being connected to ground, is used as a reservoir for storing negative energy charges.

Photo - Tesla magnetic motor

Rotary ring Lazarev so far it is considered the only working VD2, in addition, it is easy to reproduce, you can assemble it yourself at home, having improvised tools in use. The photo shows a diagram of a simple Lazarev ring engine:

Photo - Koltsar Lazarev

The diagram shows that the container is divided into two parts by a special porous partition; Lazarev himself used a ceramic disk for this. A tube is installed in this disk, and the container is filled with liquid. For the experiment, you can even pour plain water, but it is desirable to use a volatile solution, for example, gasoline.

The work is carried out as follows: with the help of a partition, the solution enters the lower part of the tank, and due to pressure it moves up through the tube. So far, this is only perpetual motion, independent of external factors. In order to build a perpetual motion machine, you need to place a wheel under the dripping liquid. Based on this technology, the simplest self-rotating magnetic electric motor of constant motion was created, a patent is registered for one Russian company. It is necessary to install a wheel with blades under the dropper, and place magnets directly on them. Due to the formed magnetic field, the wheel will start to rotate faster, water will be pumped faster and a permanent magnetic field will be formed.

Shkondin linear motor made a kind of revolution in progress. This device is very simple in design, but at the same time incredibly powerful and productive. Its engine is called a wheel within a wheel, and it is mainly used in the modern transportation industry. According to reviews, a motorcycle with a Shkondin engine can travel 100 kilometers on a couple of liters of gasoline. The magnetic system works for full repulsion. In the wheel-in-wheel system, there are paired coils, inside of which one more coils are connected in series, they form a double pair, which has different magnetic fields, due to which they move in different sides and control valve. An autonomous motor can be installed on a car, a fuel-free motorcycle with a magnetic motor will not surprise anyone, devices with such a coil are often used for a bicycle or wheelchair. You can buy a finished device on the Internet for 15,000 rubles (made in China), the V-Gate starter is especially popular.

Photo - Shkondin Engine

Alternate Perendeve Engine- This is a device that works solely thanks to magnets. Two circles are used - static and dynamic, on each of them in equal sequence, magnets are located. Due to the self-repelling free force, the inner circle rotates indefinitely. This system received wide application in providing independent energy in household and production.

Photo - Engine Perendeva

All of the inventions listed above are under development, modern scientists continue to improve them and look for the ideal option for developing a second-order perpetual motion machine.

In addition to these devices, the Alekseenko vortex engine, Bauman, Dudyshev and Stirling devices are also popular with modern researchers.

How to assemble the engine yourself

Homemade products are in great demand on any electrician forum, so let's look at how you can assemble a magnetic motor-generator at home. The fixture that we propose to construct consists of 3 interconnected shafts, they are fastened in such a way that the shaft in the center is turned directly to the two side ones. Attached to the middle of the central shaft is a disk of lucite, four inches in diameter, and half an inch thick. The outer shafts are also equipped with two inch discs. There are small magnets on them, eight pieces per big disk and four for small ones.

Photo - Suspended magnetic motor

The axis on which the individual magnets are located is in a plane parallel to the shafts. They are installed in such a way that the ends pass near the wheels with a flash of a minute. If these wheels are moved by hand, then the ends of the magnetic axis will be synchronized. To speed up, it is recommended to install an aluminum bar in the base of the system so that its end slightly touches the magnetic parts. After such manipulations, the structure should begin to rotate at a speed of half a turn in one second.

The drives are installed in a special way, with the help of which the shafts rotate similarly to each other. Naturally, if you act on the system with a third-party object, for example, with a finger, then it will stop. This perpetual motion machine was invented by Bauman, but he failed to obtain a patent, because. at that time, the device was classified as non-proprietary VD.

For development modern version Chernyaev and Emelyanchikov did a lot of such an engine.

Photo - The principle of operation of the magnet

What are the advantages and disadvantages of actually working magnetic motors

Advantages:

1. Complete autonomy, fuel economy, the ability to organize the engine from improvised means in any desired place;
2. A powerful device on neodymium magnets is capable of providing energy to a living space up to 10 W and above;
3. The gravitational engine is able to work until it is completely worn out, and even at the last steel, work is given out maximum amount energy.

Flaws:

1. The magnetic field can negatively affect human health, especially the space (jet) engine is subject to this factor;
2. Despite the positive results of the experiments, most models are not able to work under normal conditions;
3. Even after acquiring a ready-made motor, it can be very difficult to connect it;
4. If you decide to buy a magnetic impulse or piston engine, then be prepared for the fact that its price will be greatly inflated.

The operation of a magnetic motor is pure truth and it is real, the main thing is to correctly calculate the power of the magnets.

article on how do jet engine their hands.

Attention! Building your own jet engine can be dangerous. We strongly recommend that you accept all necessary measures precautions when working with under the tree and exercise extreme caution when handling tools. IN homemade extreme amounts of potential and kinetic energy (explosive propellants and moving parts) are incorporated, which can cause serious injury during operation gas turbine engine. Always exercise caution and prudence when working on the engine and machinery and wear appropriate eye and hearing protection. The author is not responsible for the use or misinterpretation of the information contained in this article.

Step 1: Working on the basic design of the engine

Let's start the engine assembly process with 3D modeling. CNC manufacturing of parts greatly simplifies the assembly process and reduces the number of hours that will be spent on fitting parts. The main benefit of using 3D processes is the ability to see how parts will interact together before they are made.

If you want to make operating engine, be sure to register on the forums of the relevant topics. After all, a company of like-minded people will significantly speed up the manufacturing process homemade and significantly increase the chances of a successful outcome.

Step 2:

Be careful when choosing a turbocharger! You want a big "turbo" with a single (not split) turbine. The larger the turbocharger, the more thrust will be finished engine. I like turbines from large diesel engines.

As a rule, it is not so much the size of the entire turbine that is important, but the size of the inductor. The inductor is the visible area of ​​the compressor blades.

The turbocharger in the picture is a Cummins ST-50 from a large 18 wheel truck.

Step 3: Calculate the size of the combustion chamber

In step given brief descriptions principles of engine operation and shows the principle by which the dimensions of the combustion chamber (CC) are calculated, which must be made for a jet engine.

Compressed air (from the compressor) enters the combustion chamber (CC), which mixes with fuel and ignites. The "hot gases" exit through the rear of the CS and travel over the blades of the turbine, where it extracts energy from the gases and converts it into shaft rotational energy. This shaft turns the compressor, which is attached to another wheel, which removes most of the exhaust gases. Any additional energy that remains from the process of passing gases creates turbine thrust. Simple enough, but it's actually a bit tricky to build it all up and get it running successfully.

The combustion chamber is made from a large piece steel pipe with caps on both ends. A diffuser is installed inside the COP. The diffuser is a tube that is made of a smaller diameter pipe that runs through the entire CS and has many drilled holes. Holes allow compressed air enter the working volume and mix with fuel. After a fire has occurred, the diffuser lowers the temperature air flow which comes into contact with the turbine blades.

To calculate diffuser dimensions, simply double the diameter of the turbocharger inductor. Multiply the diameter of the inductor by 6 and this will give you the length of the diffuser. While the compressor wheel may be 12 or 15 cm in diameter, the inductor will be much smaller. The inductor of the turbines (ST-50 and BT-50 models) is 7.6 cm in diameter, so the dimensions of the diffuser will be: 15 cm in diameter and 45 cm in length. I wanted to make the CS a little smaller, so I decided to use a diffuser with a diameter of 12 cm with a length of 25 cm. I chose this diameter, primarily because the dimensions of the tube repeat the dimensions exhaust pipe diesel truck.

Since the diffuser will be located inside the CC, I recommend taking a minimum free space of 2.5 cm around the diffuser as a starting point. In my case, I chose the 20 cm diameter of the KS, because it fits into the predetermined parameters. The internal clearance will be 3.8 cm.

Now you have approximate dimensions that can already be used in the manufacture of a jet engine. Together with end caps and fuel injectors- these parts together will form a combustion chamber.

Step 4: Preparing the KC End Rings

Fix the end rings with bolts. With this ring, the diffuser will be held in the center of the camera.

The outer diameter of the rings is 20 cm, and the inner diameters are 12 cm and 0.08 cm, respectively. Extra space(0.08 cm) will facilitate the installation of the diffuser, and will also serve as a buffer to limit the expansion of the diffuser (during its heating).

Rings are made from 6 mm sheet steel. The 6mm thickness will allow the rings to be welded securely and provide a stable base for attaching the end caps.

12 bolt holes, which are located around the circumference of the rings, provide secure fastening when installing end caps. Nuts should be welded onto the back of the holes so that the bolts can simply be screwed straight into them. All this was invented only because rear end will not be available for the wrench. Another way is to cut the threads in the holes on the rings.

Step 5: Weld the End Rings

First you need to shorten the body to the desired length and align everything properly.

Let's start by wrapping a large sheet of drawing paper around a steel pipe so that the ends meet each other and the paper is strongly stretched. Let's make a cylinder out of it. Put the paper on one end of the pipe so that the edges of the pipe and the paper cylinder are flush. Make sure there is enough room (to make a mark around the pipe) so that you can grind the metal flush with the mark. This will help line up one end of the pipe.

Next, you should measure the exact dimensions of the combustion chamber and diffuser. From the rings to be welded, be sure to subtract 12 mm. Since the RC will be 25 cm long, 24.13 cm is worth considering. Mark the pipe, and use the paper to make a good template around the pipe, as you did before.

Cut off the excess with a grinder. Don't worry about the accuracy of the cut. In fact, you should leave some material and clean it up later.

Let's make a bevel at both ends of the pipe (to get good quality weld seam). Use the magnetic welding clamps to center the rings on the ends of the pipe and make sure they are flush with the pipe. Grab the rings from 4 sides and let them cool. Make a weld, then repeat the operations on the other side. Do not overheat the metal, so you can avoid deformation of the ring.

When both rings are welded, process the seams. This is optional, but it will make the CS more aesthetically pleasing.

Step 6: Making the Caps

To complete the work on the COP, we need 2 end caps. One cover will be located on the side fuel injector, and the other will direct hot gases to the turbine.

Let's make 2 plates of the same diameter as the CS (in my case 20.32 cm). Drill 12 holes around the perimeter for the bolts and line them up with the holes on the end rings.

Only 2 holes need to be made on the injector cap. One will be for the fuel injector and the other for the spark plug. The project uses 5 nozzles (one in the center and 4 around it). The only requirement is that the injectors must be located in such a way that after final assembly they were inside the diffuser. For our design, this means they must fit in the center of the 12 cm circle in the middle of the end cap. We drill 12 mm holes for mounting the nozzles. Off center a bit to add a hole for the spark plug. The hole must be drilled for a 14mm x 1.25mm thread that will fit the spark plug. The design in the picture will have 2 candles (one in reserve if the first fails).

Pipes protrude from the injector cap. They are made of pipes with a diameter of 12 mm (outer) and 9.5 mm (inner diameter). They are cut to a length of 31 mm, after which bevels are made at the edges. There will be 3mm thread on both ends. These will later be welded together with 12mm tubes protruding from each side of the plate. The fuel supply will be carried out on one side and the injectors will be screwed in on the other.

In order to make an exhaust hood, you will need to cut a hole for "hot gases". In my case, the dimensions repeat the dimensions of the turbine inlet. The small flange should be the same dimensions as the open turbine as well, plus four bolt holes to secure it to it. The turbine end flange can be welded together from a simple rectangular box that will run between them.

The transitional bend should be made of sheet steel. Weld the pieces together. It is necessary that welds walked on the outer surface. This is necessary so that the air flow does not have any obstacles and turbulence is not created inside the welds.

Step 7: Putting it all together

Start by attaching the flange and plugs (exhaust manifold) to the turbo. Then fix the combustion chamber body and finally the main body injector cover. If you did everything right, then your craft should look like the second picture below.

It is important to note that the turbine and compressor sections can be rotated relative to each other by loosening the clamps in the middle.

Based on the orientation of the parts, you will need to make a pipe that will connect the compressor outlet to the combustion chamber housing. This pipe should be the same diameter as the outlet of the compressor and eventually attached to it with a hose connector. The other end will need to be connected flush with the combustion chamber and welded into place once the hole has been cut. For my camera, I use a piece of bent 9 cm exhaust pipe. The figure below shows a method of making a pipe that is designed to slow down the speed of the air flow before entering the combustion chamber.

For normal operation a significant degree of tightness is needed, check the welds.

Step 8: Making the Diffuser

The diffuser allows air to enter the center of the combustion chamber, while keeping and holding the flame in place so that it exits towards the turbine and not towards the compressor.

Holes have special names and functions (from left to right). The small holes on the left are primary, the middle holes are secondary, and the largest on right side are tertiary.

• The main openings supply air, which is mixed with the fuel.
• Secondary openings supply air, which completes the combustion process.
• The tertiary holes provide cooling for the gases before they leave the chamber, so that they do not overheat the turbine blades.

To make the hole calculation process easy, below is a tool that will do the job for you.

Since our combustion chamber is 25 cm long, it will be necessary to cut the diffuser to this length. I would like to suggest making it almost 5mm shorter to allow for the expansion of the metal as it heats up. The diffuser will still be able to be clamped inside the end rings and "float" inside them.

Step 9:

Now you have your diffuser ready, open the CC case and slide it between the rings until it fits snugly. Install the injector cap and tighten the bolts.

The fuel system must use a pump capable of delivering a high pressure flow (at least 75 l/h). To supply oil, you need to use a pump capable of providing a pressure of 300 yew. Pa with a flow of 10 l/h. Fortunately, the same type of pump can be used for both purposes. My Shurflo offer #8000-643-236.

I present a diagram for the fuel system and the oil supply system for the turbine.

For reliable operation systems recommend using the system adjustable pressure with bypass valve. Thanks to him, the flow that the pumps pump will always be full, and any unused liquid will be returned to the tank. This system will help to avoid back pressure on the pump (increase the service life of components and assemblies). The system will work equally well for fuel systems and oil supply systems. For the oil system, you will need to install a filter and oil radiator(both of these will be installed in line after the pump but before the bypass valve).

Make sure that all pipes leading to the turbine are made of "hard material". Using flexible rubber hoses can be disastrous.

The fuel tank can be any size and the oil tank must hold at least 4 liters.

In my oil system I used completely synthetic oil Castrol. It has much more high temperature ignition, and the low viscosity will help the turbine start spinning. Coolers must be used to lower the oil temperature.

As for the ignition system, there is enough such information on the Internet. As they say, there is no friend for taste and color.

Step 10:

To begin, raise the oil pressure to a minimum of 30 MPa. Put on your headphones and blow air through the motor with a blower. Engage the ignition circuits and slowly apply fuel while closing the needle valve for fuel system until you hear a "pop" as the combustion chamber kicks in. Keep increasing the fuel supply and you will start to hear the roar of your new jet engine.

Thank you for your attention

And today we will talk about how to make an engine out of a battery, copper wire and a magnet. Such a mini electric motor can be used as a fake on the table of a home electrician. It is quite easy to assemble, so if you are interested this species classes, then we will provide detailed instructions with photo and video examples, so that the assembly of the simplest motor is understandable and accessible to everyone!

Step 1 - Prepare materials

To make the simplest magnetic motor with your own hands, you will need the following materials at hand:

Having prepared all the necessary materials, you can proceed to the assembly of a perpetual electric motor. Making a small electric motor at home is not difficult, as you will see now!

Step 2 - Putting together a homemade

So, in order for the instruction to be understandable for you, it is better to consider it step by step with pictures that will help you visually understand the principle of operation of a mini electric motor.

We immediately draw your attention to the fact that you can invent the design of a home-made small engine. For example, below we will provide you with a few video tutorials that may help you make your own version of the engine from a battery, copper wire and a magnet.

What to do if homemade does not work?

If suddenly you have collected perpetual electric motor with your own hands, but it does not rotate, do not rush to get upset. The most common reason for the lack of rotation of the motor is too much distance between the magnet and the coil. In this case, you only need to trim the legs a little, on which the rotating part rests.

That's the whole technology of assembling a home-made magnetic electric motor at home. If you watched the video tutorials, then you probably made sure that you can make an engine out of a battery, copper wire and a magnet with your own hands. different ways. We hope that the instruction was interesting and useful for you!

It will be useful to know:

Very simple engine
The main goal is to try to offer internal combustion engine design as simple as possible from all points of view.
Main criteria:
There is no know-how in the engine from which it would not be known or even which would not be applied somewhere
· Quantity individual parts should be minimal
The details themselves are as simple as possible
There are no details that are very different in complexity from others (with the exception of KShM, we accept it as a classic)
Based on these criteria, we set the general appearance:
1. How to choose the most efficient four-stroke internal combustion engine
2. Number of cylinders 1 or 2

Figure 1 shows the main details of the proposed ICE. KShM is classic, it is not in the figure. The plate (pos. 1) is the basis providing rigidity between two separate cylinders (pos. 4, 5) and three main bearing housings (pos. 8-9). Cylinders are attached to the plate with studs with clamping strips through the shoulder, or screwed into the threaded mounting holes.

Figure 2: the main bearing bolts (pos. 10) are pressed into the holes of the plate, from turning they are fixed with a “flat” on the bolt head and a “dead end” on the plate.
Then, centering bushings (pos. 12) are pressed into the holes of the plate. And on them the upper housings of the main bearings (pos. 8) are pressed in. The crankshaft is laid and the lower caps of the main bearings (pos. 9) are installed, fixing them with nuts (Fig. 1, pos. 11)
Pistons with connecting rods are installed in cylinders and mounted connecting rod bearings and covers. They are screwed into the head cylinders, orienting them with gas channels using adjusting rings (Fig. 3, pos. 1)
The increased length of the front part of the plate (Fig. 1, size B) is necessary for mounting the oil pump drive gear on the crankshaft. Mounted by itself oil pump on a bracket mounted on the front main bearing housing (not shown in the figure) is mounted oil system- kit steel tubes. Next, the front and rear covers of the internal combustion engine are mounted (Fig. 1, pos. 2-3) with oil seals. From the bottom, the internal combustion engine closes the pallet (Fig. 1, pos. 13)
ICE mechanisms
1 KShM classic - Qual-Connecting Rod-Piston.
2 timing number of valves one.
The world's first internal combustion engine had 1 Exhaust valve lower location and automatic intake, located in the combustion chamber. Offered following diagram Timing: with one main valve (closes the gas channel of the cylinder) and an atmospheric valve (controls the flow of gases before the main valve).
Figure 3:
1 Head
2 cylinders
3 Main valve
4 Anchor
5.6 bottom and top electromagnet
7 Atmospheric valve body
8 Atmospheric damper flap
9 Atmospheric valve
10 Removable cooling jacket
11 Adjusting ring

Offered electromagnetic circuit main valve control A solenoid actuator is also available for atmospheric damper control. You can also use the "classic" mechanical drive with a camshaft, pushers, etc., but this will complicate the design.
There are 2 unusual solutions in the scheme, which cast doubt on its performance:
A) One main and common atmospheric valve for 2 cylinders.
IN) Electromagnetic drive valves
Let's try to theoretically substantiate the performance of this scheme:
A. Consider the mutual work of the main and atmospheric valves (Fig. 4).

From fig. 3 and fig. 4 follows: 1) the valves are switched 1 time per 1 revolution of the K-shaft, the requirement for the speed of closing and opening is not very strict
2) the piston should not "catch up" with the open main valve
3) since the main valve is 1, its diameter can be made sufficiently large by increasing the cross section of the seat-valve
4) the main valve is flushed alternately with hot and cold gases. Which reduces its thermal stress, improves the evaporation of the fuel, although it slightly reduces the density fresh charge
5) it is possible to make the gas channel of the main valve in the head as short as possible, reducing the transfer of heat from the exhaust gases to the body of the head
6) the requirement for the tightness of the damper of the atmospheric valve is not very high and a slight flow of gas through the gaps will not greatly affect the operation of the internal combustion engine.
B. Electromagnetic valve drive. The main thing is to ensure the speed of the valves and the tightness of the main one.
Speed ​​can be achieved by: 1) minimum weight moving parts
2) The absence of "powerful" springs eliminates their resonance. Although it is possible and advisable to add a “soft” spring to the system, which works to open the main valve.
3) Create a powerful magnetic force
4) Tightness: in general, it is not achieved by pressing force. And the accuracy of fitting mating surfaces. Effort is needed for speed. When lapping the valve, even under its own weight it should already be airtight (check with kerosene), i.e. a powerful closing magnetic force is needed to speed up and hold the valve at the beginning of the compression stroke. As the pressure in the cylinder increases, the voltage from the magnet coil can generally be removed, and the valve will be held. high pressure in a cylinder.

Having such a timing design, where common valve open during the exhaust-intake cycles, another way of purging the cylinder suggests itself using gas-dynamic processes in the intake and exhaust tracts (Fig. 6):

1) intake pipe, 2) main valve port, 3) receiver, 4) exhaust pipe, 5) muffler
The peculiarity is that there are no mechanical valves, which makes the system as simple as possible. But it requires complex calculations. To provide the following processes:
1) since intake system interconnected through the channel of the main valve directly. On the exhaust stroke, the exhaust gas flow must completely go into the receiver and the exhaust pipe without entering the intake pipe. To do this, the outlet of the intake pipe must be directed in the direction of the exhaust gas flow in order to achieve an ejection effect.
2) the exhaust path must be calculated so that while the piston is near the TDC, the exhaust gas wave leaves the receiver, creating a vacuum in it that would fill it with fresh air from the intake pipe, the air volume must be sufficient to further fill the cylinder, and the exhaust gases minimally enter into a cylinder
Supply system
The power system can be diesel and gasoline. On gasoline - injection - injection through the nozzle in front of the valve. Fuel must be injected at the very first moment of descent, after the atmospheric valve flap is switched to a fresh charge, so that fuel does not enter the exhaust system.
Another way of supplying fuel is proposed - through the hole in the valve seat directly into the “seat-valve” section (Fig. 5)

System elements:
1) Email solenoid valve, 2) core locking needle, 3) spring, 4) air inlet, 5) valve coil, 6) fuel inlet
A) Fuel jet B) emulsion chamber, C) annular channel in the seat, C) air jet, E) fuel emulsion supply holes
The system is, as it were, a hybrid, from the injector there is solenoid valve, dosed supplying fuel for each cycle at the very beginning of the intake stroke. From the carburetor there is an emulsion chamber B, from where the emulsion is sucked into the cylinder through the annular channel C and the supply hole D due to the vacuum on the intake stroke, and at the very beginning of the intake. Further, the chamber and channels are simply blown with air from the air jet, carrying the remaining fuel vapors into the cylinder.
On the “exhaust” stroke, the exhaust gases, having a slight pressure, can enter the channels and the mixing chamber and then into the air fitting, but their amount is not significant and should not affect the operation of the system.
Feature: the solenoid valve is still not a nozzle, where fuel is supplied at a sufficiently high pressure from an electric pump. Here is a large diameter jet and fuel supply under low pressure, which can be obtained from the top location fuel tank and, possibly, creating excess pressure (gas pressure) in the tank itself.
Also, the system is well suited for supplying liquefied gas using gas equipment.