How to make a gasoline engine with your own hands. Powerful do-it-yourself stirling engine

How to make a gasoline engine with your own hands. Powerful do-it-yourself stirling engine

19.04.2019

It has long been developed by craftsmen and is in demand. Many fishermen have already tested such an electric motor, using all kinds of Constructive decisions for its manufacture. It is worth noting that there is a trend in terms of increasing the assembly of electric motors for a boat with their own hands based on a drill, since not every fisherman can afford a factory electric motor.

Today we will tell you how to do it yourself drill electric motor for your boat and what it takes.

Benefits and technical features homemade electric motor for a boat based on a drill

The advantages of such a motor will be as follows:

  • savings on factory expensive outboard motor;
  • environmental legislation provides for regulation in terms of the use of factory-made electric motors for boats. Do-it-yourself products do not apply;
  • almost silent operation of the electric motor;
  • savings compared to using a motor internal combustion.
  • Before starting work on assembling the motor with your own hands, you need to choose a drill. The key parameter for choosing a particular model is its power, which should be at least 150 watts.

You should also take into account such a parameter as the voltage of the electric motor. Many people think that you need to use a 10 volt cordless drill, but this is wrong. The battery will deteriorate over time and will have to be replaced, which will be very expensive. It is better to take a drill that runs on a voltage of 12 volts, for which you can easily pick desired battery , which is easy to connect with wires and can easily fit in the boat.

When you have chosen the right drill, you should prepare the rest of the tools required for further work:

  • pipe with a square section;
  • clamps;
  • reducers;
  • metal tube with a diameter of 20;
  • rod for the shaft;
  • metal sheet for the impeller;
  • welding machine;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • Bulgarian;
  • screwdriver

To create a mechanism for lifting the impeller in a boat, you should weld metal pipe to clamps. A base in the form of a frame of a truncated pyramid should be attached to this pipe, which is directed by the smaller base towards the water. At the top of the base there is a frame for the bearing, and a tube is welded at the bottom. A shaft should be passed through the tube and bearing.

It is used as a wire or tube, the diameter should be smaller so that it is not heavy. Best tube for:

  • it is provided by bearings at the top and bottom;
  • friction will be less;
  • there will be no vibration of the shaft in the pipe body.

Gearboxes and propeller: installation and manufacturing techniques

Reducers must be installed on both sides of the shaft. They are advised to install them with their own hands, depending on the type of the electric motor itself, in order to choose the right amount optimal speed but it is very difficult and time consuming.

You can take the gearbox from old technology Or buy a new one from the store. The main condition for him is transmitting number should not be large, it is desirable that he be able to reduce the number of revolutions by five times. A number of experts believe that this is small and will not be enough for the boat to reach normal speed, but this is not at all the case.

The lower part of the pipe is equipped with a gearbox from an old grinder and is added with an impeller. The propeller can be taken ready from old devices, for example, it can serve as an old cooler from a computer, but this impeller will not be able to provide water flow for the fast movement of the boat.

And with your own hands it can be made on the basis of sheets of metal, this is done like this:

  • cut a square with a side of 30 cm from a tin sheet and drill 4 holes in it from the center of each side to the place of the diagonal intersection;
  • there should be a distance of 5 cm between the slots;
  • the edges of the “petals” must be rounded and each blade rotated 30 degrees from the axis;
  • when using a gearbox from a grinder, make a hole in the central part and fix it on the shaft with a fixing nut;
  • connect the upper gearbox to the drill. It will be great if the gearbox shaft can be clamped in its head. Then the shaft can be clamped and the drill fixed to the base with clamps.

If the design does not match the size of the drill, a tube is used to connect the gearbox and the electric motor, which is put on the gearbox shaft. To prevent the shaft from rotating inside, it must be fixed: make a through hole through the tube and secure with a pin.

So our boat electric motor almost ready to work, it remains only to test it. For this no need to immediately put it on the boat and turn it on. First, the impeller is lowered into any container filled with water, and then the motor itself is turned on. You have to feel the created flow with your hands and check its operation by switching different modes. If you feel movement, then you can put a do-it-yourself motor on a boat and use it already in a pond. During test work, the motor should work in normal mode and create the desired background noise.

However, this design of a homemade electric motor for a boat has the following disadvantages:

  • the motor cannot be rotated about the vertical axis, so you will have to use oars when driving the boat, and this is inconvenient when fishing;
  • homemade outboard motor does not have a convenient control system.

The gearbox and its effect on the operation of the motor

It is worth adding that a properly selected gearbox for a boat motor is one of the key conditions for its reliable operation and duration of operation. Also, it will not be superfluous to calculate as accurately as possible all the necessary calculations. It will not be easy to do it yourself, so this type of work can be entrusted to a specialist, even if you make the motor yourself. If you do not have the opportunity to contact a specialist, then carefully explore everything technical publications regarding gearboxes.

For example, some amateurs claim that a gearbox from a conventional trimmer is perfect as a boat gearbox. You only need the gearbox itself, the shaft and the protective tube, which should be connected to the motor.

If we talk in general about a home-made electric motor for a boat, then it will cost you much cheaper than the factory one, but it cannot be considered that it is its full replacement. Such a unit significantly inferior to him in terms of speed and power, you will also be limited in terms of the choice of operating modes.

The do-it-yourself outboard electric motor discussed above can reach a speed of about 8 kilometers per hour, and charging the battery from the car for its operation is enough for about 5 hours.

Such motor fit for a light boat with two passengers. It runs smoothly and silently and is easy to handle and transport. If you do not have big requirements for the motor, you can safely start assembling it yourself.

Unlike ancient times, when one could only rely on the forces of nature to hope for a tailwind, today it is possible to move on the surface of the water in any direction without significant physical effort and in complete calm.

Thanks to scientists who have produced electricity for humanity and tamed the fire of an internal combustion engine, any boatman can independently attach some kind of motor to his watercraft.

What can a boat motor be made of?

A boat motor can be made from many mechanisms that gather dust in a barn or garage and are not used for their intended purpose.

It often happens that the equipment breaks down, and in order to fix it, you need to spend more than half the cost of a new device. Much easier in this case to purchase new device, and put the old one aside and use it as a source of spare parts and various bolts and nuts. It is from such devices that you can make a boat motor.

If such devices are not available, then you can inexpensively purchase such a mechanism at secondary market. The main thing is that the engine is in good condition in such devices.

Trimmer outboard motor

By minimally changing the design of the trimmer, you can arrange an excellent traction unit for boats of any design. There is already an engine and transmission in such a device, it is enough to make a mount for the boat, and instead of a bobbin with fishing line or a disk, install a propeller.

Before making a boat motor from a trimmer, it should be understood that the power of such devices is very small, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to move against a strong current.

trimmer as outboard motor Ideal for use on a lake or pond.

The disadvantages of using this device include high level noise. In addition, at a low speed of movement, you will have to breathe absolutely all the products of the "vital activity" of this system.

Boat motor from a screwdriver

Outboard motors on electric traction have excellent indicators in terms of noise production and environmental friendliness. You can make a motor for a boat from a screwdriver, but the power of the device should not be less than 300 watts. To transmit torque to the screw, which is located under water, you can use a flexible shaft from the trimmer.

As propeller a small aluminum screw from a car fan is used, and car batteries with a capacity of 60 A / h are used to ensure a long time for such a device.

The disadvantages of such designs is the need to carry a fully charged car battery. The mass of such a part is more than 20 kg. The disadvantages include the limited stroke of such a motor, after the battery is discharged, it will be necessary to manually set the boat in motion again.

Boat motor from walk-behind tractor

The most powerful of home-made outboard motors is considered to be a device made from a walk-behind tractor. Equipment for processing a personal plot is equipped with hardy and durable four-stroke engines internal combustion, which, when installed on a watercraft,

will allow him to develop a decent speed both with the flow and against it. Such engines have a significant mass and, usually, not used on.

The easiest way to install an outboard motor of this design is to minimally alter the main structure. It is enough to attach a walk-behind tractor to the boat hull, and install aluminum blades instead of cutters. The blades must be located in the same plane as the shaft, which in this case is located perpendicular to the movement of the craft. The blades have the form of rectangular plates, which should be lowered into the water with the lower half, and the upper part should move freely through the air. Such a paddle wheel device will allow you to move with high speed even in places where the depth does not exceed half a meter. A boat engine made from a fast-moving motoblock does an excellent job.

Other options

Craft homemade engine you can not only use trimmers and screwdrivers as a basis. If there is a desire to design an outboard motor on your own and there is a significant amount of time and money, then as power unit you can use any technical device equipped with an internal combustion engine or driven by an electric motor.

How to catch more fish?

I have been active fishing for quite some time and have found many ways to improve the bite. And here are the most effective ones:

  1. Cool activator. Attracts fish in cold and warm water with the help of pheromones included in the composition and stimulates their appetite. It is a pity that Rosprirodnadzor wants to ban its sale.
  2. More sensitive gear. Reviews and instructions for other types of gear you can find on the pages of my site.
  3. Lures using pheromones.

You can get the rest of the secrets of successful fishing for free by reading our other articles on the site.

Many craftsmen put engines from motorcycles on the boat. In this case, it is possible to regulate the speed of the propeller by shifting the gearbox. Powerful 12-volt motors, which are used in various mechanisms, can be successfully used as boat engines.

We make a boat motor with our own hands

It is not difficult to make a boat motor - it is enough to prepare all the parts necessary for this and assemble the device in such a way as to exclude the possibility of damage to the boat during the operation of such a unit, and ensure safety for people.

The simplest manufacturing option homemade motor from the trimmer. For assembly you will need the following materials and tools:

  1. Trimmer.
  2. Spanners.
  3. Pliers.
  4. Screwdriver.
  5. Bulgarian or hacksaw for metal.
  6. Drill and twist drills for metal.
  7. Stud 12 mm.
  8. Vice.

To make a working version of the outboard motor, you will need to purchase a trimmer. You can use any model, but the more powerful the device, the boat will have higher speed characteristics

Making a propeller is the first thing to start with. For the screw, a duralumin plate with a size of 100 - 30 mm is used. Exactly in the middle of such a plate, it is necessary to make a hole for installing it on the trimmer shaft. The hole diameter depends on the thickness of the gearbox shaft and is usually 17 mm. Before bending the duralumin plate, it must be annealed. Then, with pliers, each side is slightly bent so that during axial rotation of such a plate, its step is no more than 10 mm.

Then the reel is removed from the mower and a screw is installed in its place. It is necessary to tighten the nut well so that the screw does not turn during operation. The trimmer discs are fixed with a nut with a left-hand thread, so when the outboard motor is running, you can not be afraid of losing the screw due to unscrewing the nut.

Then you need to do reliable fastenings, with which the trimmer will be installed on the boat. On the body of the trimmer at the junction of the two halves there is a ring for attaching the belt. It is this part that will connect the trimmer body to the boat. It is necessary to make a mount that will securely connect the hull of the boat to the "eye" of the trimmer. For this purpose, you can use a mechanical meat grinder, in which the lower part is separated using a grinder or a hacksaw. Then a hole with a diameter of 12 mm is made in the body of the resulting clamp. The hole must be located in the transverse plane of the screw clamp.

From a metal stud with a diameter of 12 mm, it is necessary to cut a piece 100 mm long. On the one hand, this segment of the stud is slightly flattened and a hole with a diameter of 6 mm is made in it. A 6 mm bolt is threaded into this hole, on which the “eye” of the trimmer is installed. The bolt must be tightened with a self-locking nut.

The process of installing the motor on the boat occurs in the following sequence:

  • the mount is installed on the transom and securely fixed with a threaded connection;
  • a homemade outboard motor is installed in the mounting hole.

The motor can be started and steered by holding the boat motor body evenly, and if necessary, tilt it in the opposite direction of the boat turn.

Reducer and its effect on work

The use of a gearbox for a boat motor allows you to change the direction of axial rotation. The gearbox changes the speed of rotation of the shaft several times, which has a positive effect on the working life of the engine. When equipped with a gearbox for an outboard motor, you should adhere to the golden mean and do not install a device with a large gear ratio. Failure to do so will result in excessive fuel consumption, slow boat speed, and engine overheating. Most reliable way install a gearbox with an optimal gear ratio for this engine is to experience several various devices. If during work there will be no excessive load, which manifests itself in the impossibility of speed dialing high speed and the speed of the watercraft will be quite high, then this gear ratio can be considered optimal for this engine.

An average gear ratio that will work well with many internal combustion engines used as a boat motor is 1/5.

Electric motors can be used as traction for boats without a gearbox. The traction force of such devices is sufficient to work stably in the mode of direct transmission of torque to the propeller. Excellent engineering solution is the use of an electric motor under water. With this arrangement, the screw is fixed directly on the motor shaft.

Homemade motor with gearbox

It is not easy to make a motor with a gearbox on your own, but this design will allow you to change the speed of the boat and change traction characteristics propeller. This design is convenient when trolling, in addition, switching to a lower gear will allow the watercraft to move more effectively against strong wind and under heavy load.

The most compact version of the engine that you can make yourself is a device that uses two stroke engine from the moped "Karpaty". Such a device will have only two speeds, but this is quite enough.

The engine is mounted on a self-made frame, which is a cut off part of the moped frame. The right cover and the drive sprocket are removed, and a small gearbox is attached to the shaft, to which a standard “leg” from the Whirlwind outboard motor is then attached, through which the torque is transmitted. All parts must be installed in such a way that the design is as balanced as possible, otherwise a noticeable distortion will be felt during movement, and when using such an engine with a PVC boat, the boat may capsize. The control handle of such a device must be at least 0.5 length, otherwise, while driving the boat, you can get burned from a hot engine and muffler knee.

The advantages of such a boat motor are very quiet operation, low fuel consumption and the ability to switch to downshift, when it is necessary.

article on how do jet engine their hands.

Attention! Building your own jet engine can be dangerous. We strongly recommend that you accept all necessary measures precautions when working with under the tree and exercise extreme caution when handling tools. IN homemade extreme amounts of potential and kinetic energy (explosive propellants and moving parts) are incorporated, which can cause serious injury during operation gas turbine engine. Always exercise caution and prudence when working on the engine and machinery and wear appropriate eye and hearing protection. The author is not responsible for the use or misinterpretation of the information contained in this article.

Step 1: Working on the basic design of the engine

Let's start the engine assembly process with 3D modeling. CNC manufacturing of parts greatly simplifies the assembly process and reduces the number of hours that will be spent on fitting parts. The main benefit of using 3D processes is the ability to see how parts will interact together before they are made.

If you want to make operating engine, be sure to register on the forums of the relevant topics. After all, a company of like-minded people will significantly speed up the manufacturing process homemade and significantly increase the chances of a successful outcome.

Step 2:

Be careful when choosing a turbocharger! You want a big "turbo" with a single (not split) turbine. The larger the turbocharger, the more thrust will be finished engine. I like turbines from large diesel engines.

As a rule, it is not so much the size of the entire turbine that is important, but the size of the inductor. The inductor is the visible area of ​​the compressor blades.

The turbocharger in the picture is a Cummins ST-50 from a large 18 wheel truck.

Step 3: Calculate the size of the combustion chamber

In step given brief descriptions principles of engine operation and shows the principle by which the dimensions of the combustion chamber (CC) are calculated, which must be made for a jet engine.

Compressed air (from the compressor) enters the combustion chamber (CC), which mixes with fuel and ignites. The "hot gases" exit through the rear of the CS and travel over the blades of the turbine, where it extracts energy from the gases and converts it into shaft rotational energy. This shaft turns the compressor, which is attached to another wheel, which removes most of the exhaust gases. Any additional energy that remains from the process of passing gases creates turbine thrust. Simple enough, but it's actually a bit tricky to build it all up and get it running successfully.

The combustion chamber is made from a large piece steel pipe with caps on both ends. A diffuser is installed inside the COP. The diffuser is a tube that is made of a smaller diameter pipe that runs through the entire CS and has many drilled holes. Holes allow compressed air enter the working volume and mix with fuel. After a fire has occurred, the diffuser lowers the temperature air flow which comes into contact with the turbine blades.

To calculate diffuser dimensions, simply double the diameter of the turbocharger inductor. Multiply the diameter of the inductor by 6 and this will give you the length of the diffuser. While the compressor wheel may be 12 or 15 cm in diameter, the inductor will be much smaller. The inductor of the turbines (ST-50 and BT-50 models) is 7.6 cm in diameter, so the dimensions of the diffuser will be: 15 cm in diameter and 45 cm in length. I wanted to make the CS a little smaller, so I decided to use a diffuser with a diameter of 12 cm with a length of 25 cm. I chose this diameter, primarily because the dimensions of the tube repeat the dimensions exhaust pipe diesel truck.

Since the diffuser will be located inside the CC, I recommend taking a minimum free space of 2.5 cm around the diffuser as a starting point. In my case, I chose the 20 cm diameter of the KS, because it fits into the predetermined parameters. The internal clearance will be 3.8 cm.

Now you have approximate dimensions that can already be used in the manufacture of a jet engine. Together with end caps and fuel injectors- these parts together will form a combustion chamber.

Step 4: Preparing the KC End Rings

Fix the end rings with bolts. With this ring, the diffuser will be held in the center of the camera.

The outer diameter of the rings is 20 cm, and the inner diameters are 12 cm and 0.08 cm, respectively. Extra space(0.08 cm) will facilitate the installation of the diffuser, and will also serve as a buffer to limit the expansion of the diffuser (during its heating).

Rings are made from 6 mm sheet steel. The 6mm thickness will allow the rings to be welded securely and provide a stable base for attaching the end caps.

12 bolt holes located around the circumference of the rings ensure a secure fit when mounting the end caps. Nuts should be welded onto the back of the holes so that the bolts can simply be screwed straight into them. All this was invented only because rear end will not be available for the wrench. Another way is to cut the threads in the holes on the rings.

Step 5: Weld the End Rings

First you need to shorten the body to the desired length and align everything properly.

Let's start by wrapping a large sheet of drawing paper around a steel pipe so that the ends meet each other and the paper is strongly stretched. Let's make a cylinder out of it. Put the paper on one end of the pipe so that the edges of the pipe and the paper cylinder are flush. Make sure there is enough room (to make a mark around the pipe) so that you can grind the metal flush with the mark. This will help line up one end of the pipe.

Next, you should measure the exact dimensions of the combustion chamber and diffuser. From the rings to be welded, be sure to subtract 12 mm. Since the RC will be 25 cm long, 24.13 cm is worth considering. Mark the pipe, and use the paper to make a good template around the pipe, as you did before.

Cut off the excess with a grinder. Don't worry about the accuracy of the cut. In fact, you should leave some material and clean it up later.

Let's make a bevel at both ends of the pipe (to get good quality weld seam). Use the magnetic welding clamps to center the rings on the ends of the pipe and make sure they are flush with the pipe. Grab the rings from 4 sides and let them cool. Make a weld, then repeat the operations on the other side. Do not overheat the metal, so you can avoid deformation of the ring.

When both rings are welded, process the seams. This is optional, but it will make the CS more aesthetically pleasing.

Step 6: Making the Caps

To complete the work on the COP, we need 2 end caps. One cover will be located on the side fuel injector, and the other will direct hot gases to the turbine.

Let's make 2 plates of the same diameter as the CS (in my case 20.32 cm). Drill 12 holes around the perimeter for the bolts and line them up with the holes on the end rings.

Only 2 holes need to be made on the injector cap. One will be for the fuel injector and the other for the spark plug. The project uses 5 nozzles (one in the center and 4 around it). The only requirement is that the injectors must be located in such a way that after final assembly they were inside the diffuser. For our design, this means they must fit in the center of the 12 cm circle in the middle of the end cap. We drill 12 mm holes for mounting the nozzles. Off center a bit to add a hole for the spark plug. The hole must be drilled for a 14mm x 1.25mm thread that will fit the spark plug. The design in the picture will have 2 candles (one in reserve if the first fails).

Pipes protrude from the injector cap. They are made of pipes with a diameter of 12 mm (outer) and 9.5 mm (inner diameter). They are cut to a length of 31 mm, after which bevels are made at the edges. There will be 3mm thread on both ends. These will later be welded together with 12mm tubes protruding from each side of the plate. The fuel supply will be carried out on one side and the injectors will be screwed in on the other.

In order to make an exhaust hood, you will need to cut a hole for "hot gases". In my case, the dimensions repeat the dimensions of the turbine inlet. The small flange should be the same dimensions as the open turbine as well, plus four bolt holes to secure it to it. The turbine end flange can be welded together from a simple rectangular box that will run between them.

The transitional bend should be made of sheet steel. Weld the pieces together. It is necessary that welds walked on the outer surface. This is necessary so that the air flow does not have any obstacles and turbulence is not created inside the welds.

Step 7: Putting it all together

Start by attaching the flange and plugs (exhaust manifold) to the turbo. Then fix the combustion chamber body and finally the main body injector cover. If you did everything right, then your craft should look like the second picture below.

It is important to note that the turbine and compressor sections can be rotated relative to each other by loosening the clamps in the middle.

Based on the orientation of the parts, you will need to make a pipe that will connect the compressor outlet to the combustion chamber housing. This pipe should be the same diameter as the outlet of the compressor and eventually attached to it with a hose connector. The other end will need to be connected flush with the combustion chamber and welded into place once the hole has been cut. For my camera, I use a piece of bent 9 cm exhaust pipe. The figure below shows a method of making a pipe that is designed to slow down the speed of the air flow before entering the combustion chamber.

For normal operation a significant degree of tightness is needed, check the welds.

Step 8: Making the Diffuser

The diffuser allows air to enter the center of the combustion chamber, while keeping and holding the flame in place so that it exits towards the turbine and not towards the compressor.

Holes have special names and functions (from left to right). The small holes on the left are primary, the middle holes are secondary, and the largest on right side are tertiary.

  • The main openings supply air, which is mixed with the fuel.
  • Secondary openings supply air, which completes the combustion process.
  • The tertiary holes provide cooling for the gases before they leave the chamber, so that they do not overheat the turbine blades.

To make the hole calculation process easy, below is a tool that will do the job for you.

Since our combustion chamber is 25 cm long, it will be necessary to cut the diffuser to this length. I would like to suggest making it almost 5mm shorter to allow for the expansion of the metal as it heats up. The diffuser will still be able to be clamped inside the end rings and "float" inside them.

Step 9:

Now you have your diffuser ready, open the CC case and slide it between the rings until it fits snugly. Install the injector cap and tighten the bolts.

The fuel system must use a pump capable of delivering a flow high pressure(at least 75 l/h). To supply oil, you need to use a pump capable of providing a pressure of 300 yew. Pa with a flow of 10 l/h. Fortunately, the same type of pump can be used for both purposes. My Shurflo offer #8000-643-236.

I present a diagram for the fuel system and the oil supply system for the turbine.

For reliable operation of the system, I recommend using the system adjustable pressure with bypass valve. Thanks to him, the flow that the pumps pump will always be full, and any unused liquid will be returned to the tank. This system will help to avoid back pressure on the pump (increase the service life of components and assemblies). The system will work equally well for fuel systems and oil supply systems. For the oil system, you will need to install a filter and oil radiator(both of these will be installed in line after the pump but before the bypass valve).

Make sure that all pipes leading to the turbine are made of "hard material". Using flexible rubber hoses can be disastrous.

The fuel tank can be any size and the oil tank must hold at least 4 liters.

In his oil system used completely synthetic oil Castrol. It has much more high temperature ignition, and the low viscosity will help the turbine start spinning. Coolers must be used to lower the oil temperature.

As for the ignition system, there is enough such information on the Internet. As they say, there is no friend for taste and color.

Step 10:

To begin, raise the oil pressure to a minimum of 30 MPa. Put on your headphones and blow air through the motor with a blower. Engage the ignition circuits and slowly apply fuel while closing the needle valve for fuel system until you hear a "pop" as the combustion chamber kicks in. Keep increasing the fuel supply and you will start to hear the roar of your new jet engine.

Thank you for your attention

Elementary skills and the ability to turn energy into the movement of objects will definitely come in handy in the future. The incredibly exciting process of creating a homemade motor will not take much time and financial expenses, however, it will contribute to the acquisition of useful skills while spending time together.

Prepare the following items in advance:
  • a piece of magnet or an old, unnecessary mobile phone vibrating alert;
  • drill;
  • fluoroplast;
  • copper wire;
  • the wire;
  • microchip.
If you do not have a piece of magnet, then prepare a vise, clamp the vibrating alert with a thin sharp object (awl), remove the shaft. After that, open the dents on the body with an awl and remove the brush assembly. So the magnet appeared, now use a drill of a suitable diameter to remove it.


We use a drill as a rotation shaft, since this tool suits us according to technical properties, drills are strong to bending, wear-resistant. If you notice a discrepancy between the inner radius of the magnet and the shaft, then use copper wire and wind it so that the shaft does not hang out. This manipulation allows you to increase the diameter of the shaft at the junction with the rotor.


With the help of fluoroplastic, figure out the bushings. Take a sheet and drill a hole about 3 mm, build a sleeve similar to a tube. Grind the shaft to the appropriate diameter for free movement. By doing this, you will prevent friction.


Next, you need to wind the coils. To do this, order a frame on a lathe right size. To wind 60 turns you will need 90 cm of wire. After we impregnate the coil with glue, without removing it from the frame. But make sure that the coil does not stick to the frame. If you have a microscope, then the task will be much easier. When you have completed 2 such windings, glue them using a bead of glue between the winding and the sleeve.


Solder one end of each winding together, getting a single one with two outputs that are soldered to the microchip.

In fact, this is just one option out of many how you can make a motor yourself. If you are interested in such experiments, start small, and then, perhaps, it will be you who will open new achievements in the field of physics to the world.

The presence of an engine on a boat makes life much easier for its owner. However, gasoline engines make a lot of noise and consume a large number of resources. An alternative to this type of driving force is electric motors. These are quiet units that run on cheap electricity and are slightly inferior to gasoline ones. boat engines in the efficiency of movement. This version of the engine will be cheaper, especially since you can make an electric motor on a boat with your own hands.

In the name "electric motor" lies the essence of the device that it denotes. An electric motor for boats means a unit that sets in motion a swimming facility due to the movement of the blades. Its action is based on physical laws. A feature of electric motors is the resource that they consume to perform their functions.

Today, fuel-powered boat engines are common all over the world. An electric motor for a boat, unlike similar units, works by consuming electricity, not gasoline. There is a widespread opinion among some boat owners about the low efficiency of such devices. However, it is erroneous. At correct design the electric motor is capable of providing a thrust force sufficient to move the craft through the water at normal speed.

In addition, a homemade engine has a number of advantages, for example:

  1. The final cost of creating such a device will be much lower market value factory gasoline engines and electric motors.
  2. The legislation in force in the country that protects nature strictly regulates the use of electric motors for boats. On homemade units these rules do not apply.
  3. The device works without making any noise. This feature will be especially useful for fishermen, because any loud sounds may frighten off potential catches.
  4. Electricity is cheaper than fuel materials. In addition, devices equipped with internal combustion engines consume incomparably more resources than homemade electric motors.
  5. The owner of the boat has the opportunity to independently choose the power of the unit suitable for him. The basis of a homemade motor is a drill or other devices. The characteristics of the future engine depend on their power. Which device the master chooses, these will be the indicators of the electric motor.

Creating a homemade electric motor is quite simple. Just follow the instructions exactly. However, you will need certain materials and tools. There shouldn't be any problems accessing them. Most of necessary tools already available to any owner. All materials can be found in free sale at retail outlets. It is easy to find the drawings necessary for the work.

Materials and tools

When selecting equipment, you need to pay attention to two things: power and voltage. These parameters are fundamental, and the quality of the finished electric motor depends on them. The power depends on the selected drill (in this case, this tool is taken as the basis), so first of all you need to choose this equipment.

When choosing a drill, you need to focus on its power. This figure should exceed one hundred and fifty watts. It is not worth taking a tool with lesser characteristics. In this case finished device will not work effectively in moving water (that is, you will not be able to swim with such an aggregate along the river). It is best to use a cordless hammer drill.

The puncher is equipped with a reverse, has several modes of operation. This circumstance is important for the motor that will move the craft, since it will allow in the future to control the speed of the electric motor.

Second important parameter- voltage. Eighteen volt batteries should not be used. They are hard to find and are expensive. The best choice would be a drill that runs on ten or twelve volts. Such a battery is relatively cheaper, and, most importantly, it is much easier to find it on sale.

After selection optimal equipment, you can collect materials. To create an engine, you must first acquire:

  1. An electric drill that will act as a motor.
  2. Clamps with which the drill will be attached.
  3. Reducer. You can use an element from a grinder if you plan to install the motor on the transom of the boat.
  4. Round tubes with a diameter of twenty millimeters.
  5. Profiled pipes (20 * 20 millimeters).
  6. Round metal rod. It will be used to create the motor shaft.
  7. The sheet metal from which the screws will be made.

You will also need some tools:

  • scissors for cutting metal;
  • apparatus for welding;
  • Bulgarian;
  • electric drill with a set of drills;
  • self-tapping screws with a screwdriver, if wood is used to create the motor.

After all the elements have been assembled, you can begin to create a boat electric motor with your own hands. The whole procedure consists of several stages. Work should begin with the creation of a lifting mechanism for the impeller. In order for the future device to work properly, it is recommended that you carefully follow the instructions provided below.

Creation of an electric motor

As mentioned earlier, it is necessary to start making an electric motor with your own hands from creating a lifting mechanism for the impeller. It will allow you to raise given element above the water. To create it, it is necessary to weld a metal tube to pre-prepared clamps.

On this tube, you must first attach the base (a frame that looks like a pyramid, directed by a smaller base in the direction of the water). A bed is attached to a large base, another tube is welded to the lower edge. A bearing is installed on the frame. Through it and the tube welded from below, it is necessary to pass the shaft.

A tube or wire can be used as a shaft. However, the first option is better:

  • firstly, it will be possible to attach bearings to the tube (at both ends), which will reduce the friction force;
  • secondly, it is desirable that this shaft be thin, but strong. In the case of wire, you will have to use a large diameter product.

After all the steps are completed, you can proceed to the next step. The next step is to install the gearbox and propellers.

Reducer/propeller

Gearboxes are recommended to be attached to the sides of the shaft. It is advisable to first create them yourself, focusing on the parameters of the electric motor. However this process can take a very long time. Therefore, you can buy a device or use gearboxes installed on a grinder.

Depending on the specific engine, one or two gearboxes may be needed. When choosing a device, it is necessary to focus on one basic rule - it is desirable that the transmitting number be small. It is optimal if the gearbox is able to lower the speed by 5 times. This will ensure the normal course of the watercraft.

The lower gearbox is required for horizontal mounting of the propeller. If a gearbox is used from a tool such as a grinder, it will be enough to clamp it in a drill chuck. As a propeller, you can also use elements of other devices. If it doesn't exist, you can do homemade screw. For this you need:

  1. Cut out a square (the length of one side is thirty centimeters).
  2. Drill a hole in its center.
  3. Make slits diagonally (the distance between the slits must be at least five centimeters).
  4. The resulting blades must be given a rounded appearance. It is important that the size of the blades is the same, otherwise third-party vibrations may occur.

You can fix the propeller on the shaft with a bolt and nut. It was for this that a hole was made in the center of the metal sheet.

Latest improvements

Next, you need to connect the gearbox to the motor, that is, to the drill. This is easy to do - just clamp the gearbox in the drill chuck, as mentioned earlier. If the base does not match the size of the drill, an additional tube must be used.

The tube must be tightly put on the shaft. So that the latter does not rotate in it, a reliable fixation is needed. It can be provided by making a through hole in the tube and shaft. Next, both elements must be fixed with a hairpin. This fixation will prevent rotational movements of the shaft.

After the device is ready, the homemade outboard electric motor must be checked. It is enough to fill the bath with water and start the electric motor in it. If the pressure is felt by hand, the engine is running normally. You can attach it to the vessel and carry out the test in the pond.

Motor control and other design options for its creation

Although the electric motor is ready, it is not yet capable of making turns. In order not to turn with the help of oars, small improvements must be made to the design. It is enough to attach a bolt to the central part of the fastening, on which then put the pipe. This will make it possible to make turns by changing the position of the base and, accordingly, the electric motor.

Another handle can be welded to the base by bringing a regulator to it, which is responsible for supplying current to the motor. It would be advisable to use a rheostat. However, in this case, you will have to slightly change the drill itself by connecting the motor located in its case to a rheostat. This will create a more functional design.

Screwdriver as a motor

There are several ways to make an electric motor. A screwdriver can be used instead of a drill. By design, it almost does not differ from a device with a drill. hallmark products is more low cost his service. So, one twelve-volt battery will be enough for a six-hour operation of the device. However, you will have to sacrifice the speed of movement due to less power.

Large pitch propellers can be used to make the boat move faster. In addition, as in the previous case, a screwdriver-based electric motor can be equipped with handles that make it easier to control.

trimer electric motor

Perfect for this purpose and trimer. The process of creating a motor when using this device will be significantly lightened. The only thing that the master will need to do is shorten the length of the device and attach a screw to it. There is no need to mount the gearbox.

There is also no need to modify the control and the system responsible for powering the motor. The only difficulty that may be encountered on the way is the problem of attaching the device to the boat. Especially for inflatables. But it is also resolvable.

As an electric motor, you can use units that operate windscreen washers, or a simple electric motor. In the latter case, nutritional difficulties may arise, since standard motors operate at the expense of an alternating voltage of two hundred and twenty volts. The problem is solved by installing an inverter.

Thus, the owner of the boat can create an electric motor for the boat with his own hands. You don't need any special skills for this. Should only be purchased necessary materials and prepare some tools. It is recommended to use a drill with a power of more than one hundred and fifty watts as a motor. This indicator will allow you to move on a boat as if standing water, as well as along the river.
In addition to a drill, you can use a trimmer or a regular electric motor. Another option is an electric motor based on a screwdriver. Such a device is cheaper to maintain, however, there may be problems with the speed of movement of the floating craft.



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