How to install an oil cooler. Do-it-yourself oil cooler: common breakdowns, fault repair and self-assembly

12.06.2019

Oil cooler installation.

Where should I start installing an oil cooler? Right. From the big oil pump.
Takegawa, and not only Takegawa, also makes oil pumps for such engines.
I have one of them now.
So, we drain the oil, having previously swept a couple of kilometers, we remove the right cover. We contemplate a slightly brutal clutch, after which we move on to finding a suitable screwdriver for the oil pump.

As you can see, the pump is not very thick. Loosen the three big screws. Let's take it off.

Comparison with Takegawa pump. The thickness of the native is 8.2mm, the thickness of the new one is 12.5mm.

As you can see from the photo, the new pump is thicker than the original one. The Japanese promise an 80% increase in productivity. This is useful not only for the radiator, but also for the motor. The motor cools better.
Installing a new pump. We simply fasten with a given torque, using a torque wrench.

After that, it is necessary to drill a hole for a larger oil flow up to two millimeters. Drill bit and hand drill included. But I preferred to drill with an electric drill. The chips are sucked up with a vacuum cleaner during the process.

It turns out here is such an oil flow. When the oil temperature is less than 70 degrees oil goes directly to the filter. If more than 70 degrees, the thermostat closes the valve and the oil goes through the radiator.

Installing the radiator. I chose this one. And again Takegawa.

Placed under the frame. But I did not like how everything looks and I made brackets for the headlight. Good thing I ordered another one. By the way, I am pleasantly surprised that even the tubes are excellent - Bridgestone.

Such a big-eyed muzzle turned out.

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cooler engine oil(oil cooler, oil cooler) is a solution that allows you to efficiently cool working fluid. Wherein this device can be found far from on all cars, especially regularly.

When developing a particular power unit, designers initially calculate the possible heating of the oil. It turns out that if the machine is operated under normal conditions, and the motor itself is not, then the oil temperature in the engine is usually within acceptable limits.

In this case, the lubricant temperature rises significantly and many drivers install an oil cooler kit in order to realize better cooling oils in the engine. Let's look at the principle of operation of this device and its design in more detail.

Read in this article

Engine oil cooler: what is it for

First of all, a significant increase in engine loads means that in some cases there is a need to additionally cool the oil in the engine. The oil often overheats just when the engine is spinning up to maximum speed and it works for quite a long time in this mode.

Also, an aggressive driving style (frequent spinning of the internal combustion engine to cutoff) can also lead to overheating of the oil. In this case, the lubricant simply does not have enough time to cool after lowering the speed.

If the engine is forced, in this case, the oil temperature deserves increased attention. It is not difficult to guess that the tuned motor was not originally designed for such loads. Naturally, the level of heat release also increases, while the heat sink remains standard.

Please note that the above information does not mean that any engine after boosting or operating in modes maximum loads overheat. The fact is that some motors have a predisposition to overheating of the oil itself, while others do not. At the same time, at least additional control of the oil temperature will not be superfluous.

To do this, you can initially install a temperature sensor in the engine. As you know, many cars are not regularly equipped with such sensors. All the driver can count on is on the instrument panel when the oil pressure drops badly.

In this case, it is not necessary to chase after expensive high-precision devices such as Defi, etc. To monitor the overall picture of what is happening in oil system ICE is quite suitable cheap or medium option. We also add that experts recommend be sure to put not only temperature sensor but also an oil pressure sensor.

The reason is that after heating, the oil liquefies, which naturally leads to a drop in pressure in the system. At the same time, regular emergency light bulb may not catch fire, since usually its ignition occurs at critical values.

However, do not forget that even if the oil pressure light is off, engine wear is enormous at low pressure. It turns out that due to the presence of a separate sensor, it becomes possible to fix the problem in time and stop the engine in a timely manner.

Let's add that allowable temperature oil is normally heated to + 100 degrees Celsius. At the same time, for some motors, even heating up to 110 degrees is already high and may not pass without consequences, while others calmly survive even 140-150. However, in most cases, the consequences of severe overheating of the oil in the engine are quite serious.

First, the oil itself liquefies, that is, its protective and lubricating properties are lost. In this case, the engine is subjected to severe wear. Also liquid oil strongly, and overheated grease simply burns and cokes the engine.

Moreover, after overheating, the oil should be changed immediately, since the further operation of the internal combustion engine on such a lubricant greatly increases the wear of the motor, leads to the appearance and early overhaul.

Oil cooler kit for the motor: how to choose and install

Having dealt with the oil temperature, let's return to the oil cooler itself. It is quite obvious that if, after installing the sensors, overheating was noticed lubricant, then such a motor is in dire need of an engine oil cooler.

It is important to understand that it is not recommended to install an oil cooler without installing an oil pressure and temperature sensor. The fact is that if a particular engine still does not need additional cooling, the oil after installing the radiator will always remain too cold, and this is bad for the motor.

Immediately, we note that there are two types of coolers: air and liquid. We will not consider the second type, since its installation is more difficult, and the expediency of using it in some cases on tuned cars is being questioned.

So, if the driver has decided that an oil cooler is needed, then you need to purchase the following items:

special spacer for . Sensors are mounted in this spacer, and two hoses are connected, through which oil enters the radiator for cooling and exits the oil cooler back into the lubrication system.
oil cooler. This element is a radiator and is installed in engine compartment so that in the direction of the car it was possible to achieve high-quality blowing opposite air currents.

We also add that it is better to select the installation location of the radiator so that the hoses from the spacer under oil filter to the oil cooler were as short as possible in length.

As a rule, motorists prefer to immediately buy a ready-made branded kit for the most effective solution to the problem. The only negative is that really high-quality products famous brands have a fairly high cost.

If you assemble the kit yourself, you can save about 25-30%. In this case, it is important to take into account some features. First of all, oil filter spacers come with and without. The presence of a thermostat is explained by the fact that if the oil temperature is low, then the lubricant is simply not supplied to the radiator for cooling.

This feature is very useful in winter period, allowing lubricating fluid after a cold start, warm up faster and reach operating temperatures. In the event that the spacer does not have a thermostat, it is recommended to simply remove it for the winter, that is, in fact, the oil cooling system is temporarily “switched off”.

Now let's move on to the oil cooler. You need to understand that the efficiency of oil cooling will directly depend on its size and the number of sections-rows. For each engine, the owner selects a radiator individually, taking into account the desired cooling intensity.

It is better to purchase a product from trusted brands, not leaning towards buying the cheapest option. Budget oil coolers are often the cause of significant. However, the most expensive solutions may also be useless, so stick to the “golden mean” rule.

If we talk about fittings, hoses from the spacer to the radiator, various adapters, etc., you can’t save on such details. In this case, it is strongly recommended to buy only original expensive products of well-known brands, which allows you to avoid a number of serious problems in the future.

Summing up

As you can see, not everyone needs an oil cooler. power unit. Typically, these oil coolers can be factory set to sports cars, whose engines are boosted, high-speed, equipped with a turbocharger and designed to operate in maximum load modes.

Concerning non-standard installations, the need to supply an oil cooler is determined for each motor individually. First you need to install oil temperature and pressure sensors, and only then decide on the installation of an oil cooler, while the readings of these sensors are taken as the basis.

Touching on the topic of oil coolers, devices are of air and liquid type. Oil radiator(heat exchanger) with air-cooled cheaper and easier to install. The most important thing is to achieve the best blowing with oncoming air flows.

If we talk about a liquid oil cooler in the engine, this radiator is integrated into. In other words, a coolant circulates inside, which removes excess heat. This solution may be more effective, but its high cost and certain installation difficulties make an air engine oil cooler the preferred option in some cases.

Remove the oil cooler in the following order:

Remove the ground terminal from the battery post and disconnect the headlight wire terminals.
On each headlight, unscrew the screw securing the bezel and remove the headlight bezels.
Unscrew the screws holding the radiator grille and the headlights at the same time. Remove the headlights and grille.
Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses from the oil cooler and set the radiator valve handle to the "open" position.
Remove the bolts securing the oil cooler housing to the front mudguard of the radiator grille.
Rotate the oil cooler so as to remove it from the slot in the radiator shield.

The installation of the oil cooler is carried out in the reverse order.

The radiator is considered fit after its tightness test under a pressure of 4 kg/cm2.

Before installing the pressure reducing valve 14 on the radiator, the face of the plunger 12 must be lapped against the body seat 13 and the pressure reducing valve assembly must be checked for special installation on kerosene pressure. At the same time, under a pressure of 1.25 kg/cm2, traces of kerosene are allowed to appear from under the valve, and at a pressure of 2.4 kg/cm2, kerosene must flow out in a continuous stream.

Installing an oil cooler for heating in a house in a country house or in a garage on this moment is common and necessary. After all, despite all the charms of scientific technical progress However, power outages do happen. You can assemble such a unit with your own hands or purchase a factory model, but in any case, sooner or later, all owners are faced with the need to repair these products. ABOUT possible breakdowns and the intricacies of the assembly, we will talk now.

In the photo - a voluminous home-made unit.

Oil heater repair

The older generation remembers that earlier in the accompanying documentation for all electrical appliances there was always a detailed diagram, thanks to which it was possible to repair the product with your own hands.

Modern instructions, as a rule, do not contain such explanations. But do not despair, the oil heater is not spaceship and understand it quite realistically.

Common breakdowns

Important: do not be afraid if the oil cooler clicks when heated or after turning off.
When it warms up or cools down technical oil inside the unit, slight crackling is normal.
Plus, the thermostat can make such sounds.
In some cases, placing the instrument on a solid, level surface eliminates the problem.

If the sensors on the control panel of the electrical appliance do not show signs of life, then first of all you need to make sure that the outlet is working. Huge pressure leads to burning of contacts. next number there is a fork, here the reason is similar. After making sure that the socket and plug are in order, you need to check the mechanical integrity of the wire itself, rubbing, creases, squeezing;

If the indicators are lit, when it is, it is spinning, but there is no heat, you need to check the operation of the thermal relay. Such things are often not repaired, the price for it is small and there are such relays for sale. Unscrewing a couple of fasteners and reconnecting the terminals will not be difficult;
In the case when the unit heats up normally, but does not turn off after heating, the cause must be sought in the thermostat. As in the case of a thermal relay, the thermostat is not repaired, it is immediately changed to a new one. Despite the fact that the device seems to work, you should not delay replacing the thermostat. Heating elements, working in the constant overload mode, will quickly burn out, and this is already serious;
If the wires and automation are normal, you need to check the serviceability of the heating elements. A “broken” heating element can only be replaced if it is possible to dismantle it. IN inexpensive models heating elements can be tightly soldered into the case, it is already cheaper to buy a new heater here;

Fault repair

Tip: although the oil cooler circuit is relatively simple, if you decide to fix the unit yourself, you should not rely on memory.
All disassembly actions must be recorded on paper or video in order to subsequently return everything to its original state.

Repairing an outlet, plug or cord is extremely simple. The socket or plug is untwisted and in case of carbon deposits, all burnt parts are removed and cleaned with emery. The cord is simply inspected and “ringed” with an ohmmeter.

Don't forget about contact group inside the device itself. After removing the protective cover, internal contacts should also be examined and preventive measures taken.

It happens that small debris gets into the armature of the thermostat and the contacts also burn out. In this case, you need to disconnect this node, remove the cause of the blockage and clean the place of the circuit, additionally wipe it with alcohol.

When completely replacing the thermostat, it is advisable to immediately adjust the settings. This can be done by setting the armature movement in the range of 1.5 - 2.5 mm. Since the casing has already been removed, it will be useful to immediately ring the thermal relay and fuse.

If, after all the efforts, it turned out that the cause of the malfunction is a “broken” heating element, then it will need to be replaced. This is not difficult to do, but you need to act carefully so as not to overfill the oil. Plus, our Chinese friends prefer to save on the quality of gaskets, which often leads to minor oil leakage, while the algorithm of actions will be similar.

The device of the oil cooler provides for the installation of heating elements in the lower end of the device. The cover can be fastened with several bolts or a pair of locknuts. The device must be turned upside down and by unscrewing the fasteners, carefully remove the heaters.

Tip: on modern market there are quite a lot of various models of heating elements, visually similar models may differ in characteristics or have different fastenings.
Therefore, the ideal option would be to take an old heating element and, presenting it in a store, ask to pick up the same one.

In order to eliminate or prevent oil leakage when replacing the heating element, paronite gaskets should be used, as a rule, they come with the heating element. Please note that rubber gaskets are not recommended, they may collapse on contact with technical oil or will not withstand elevated temperature. In order to be safe, in addition to paronite, it is necessary to additionally coat the connection with heat-resistant sealants.

How to assemble an oil heater yourself

To make such a unit at home is not difficult. Moreover, the scheme of the oil cooler is the same everywhere, the difference lies only in the power of the equipment and the dimensions of the device case.

Depending on the size and required power of the apparatus, from 1 to 4 heating elements can be installed in it. Often, one heating element is enough for a household heater.

As for the case itself, the choice is huge. Most often, standard cast-iron aluminum or steel batteries are taken for this purpose. But you can also use a regular metal gas cylinder, a suitable diameter, or even a tightly sealed pan. The main thing is that the heating element does not touch the body.

Don't forget the oil itself. As a rule, it is advised to take any refined technical oil. But electrical transformer oil is considered an ideal option. This composition is already adapted to work at high temperatures.

The price for it is quite high and can take up to half of the budget, so the choice of case volume must be approached carefully.

It is most convenient to make a heater from a standard MS-140 cast iron battery, it has acceptable cost, plus on the market there are ready-made heating elements and related accessories adapted for this model.

As already mentioned, the heaters are mounted at the bottom end of the unit. The housing must be grounded, on the opposite side of the structure, a ball valve and an oil cooler drain hose are installed from below. This is especially true for volumetric heaters with a heavy body, where oil drainage, if necessary, is hampered by a high mass.

Since we are talking about a heater based on the MS-140, then the upper hole of the battery, which is located above the heating element, is closed with a cork. And above the drain tap, the hole is closed with a plug with a Mayevsky tap built into it, so that, if necessary, pressure can be relieved.

Important: regardless of the size and volume of the heater, its oil filling should be within 85%.
The remaining 15% will go to compensate for the expansion of the oil when heated, plus in large units it is advisable to install an additional expansion tank.

The video in this article shows the intricacies of assembling the heater.

Conclusion

As you can see, malfunctions of the oil cooler, as well as the assembly of a handicraft electrical appliance with your own hands, are not sky-high difficult and impossible. For those who find it easier to visually perceive information, we have prepared a video in this article.