Hi all Dear friends! Today we will make a very simple and effective device that will surely come in handy for people who are engaged in auto repair, plumbing, carpentry, etc. Such a little thing may well come in handy in ordinary household life.
This simple contraption is a universal key that can unscrew anything. The wrench handles all sizes of nuts and bolts perfectly, and it also has excellent grip on any smooth surface such as a water pipe.
Compared to a universal gas wrench, this design has certain advantages. The gas wrench has only two engagement planes, which in turn can deform the part to be unscrewed under strong pressure. Our tool has a “soft” girth due to contact over the entire plane of the unscrewed part.
Wood beam test. On the left is our universal key, and on the right is the gas key.
Also, this key, due to the specificity of its design, is endowed with the ability to work as a universal key with a “ratchet” mechanism: preventing the part from scrolling in the right direction and easily transferring it to the beginning in the opposite position.
To make such a universal key, you need only two parts:
- - Square metal profile 25x25 300 mm long.
- - Motorcycle chain 500 mm long.
Master key assembly
Assembly is incredibly simple and will take you no more than 5 minutes with preparation.All you need to do is weld one end of the chain to the metal profile. Welding is best done on both sides of the chain.
This completes the build. Universal key ready to use.
Using the master key
Let's skip the second end of the chain to the center of the profile and you will get a ring that just needs to be put on the part you want to unscrew.
In this tool, the chain is taken for a break and the greater the leverage force, the stronger the chain grip force.
The key perfectly hooks both round objects and faceted ones. For him, there is not much difference, whether it is a nut or a pipe.
Tests
Key test on a round pipe:
Wrench test on hex nut:
The results are excellent in all cases. High grip. Doesn't rotate anything.
Also, this miracle perfectly unscrews plastic and polypropylene pipes, without significant deformations, which is so important when working with soft plastic.
This useful key won't take up much space in your car, garage or home. But it can definitely come in handy at the right time.
So friends, feel free to make your own universal key. Be sure to watch the video of making and testing the universal key.
- in order for its transmission to serve for a long time and not create problems, it is worth periodically cleaning and lubricating the chain, as well as changing it approximately once every 10-15 thousand kilometers. Replacing a chain on a motorcycle is considered a rather complicated operation, and many experts recommend that such a problem be addressed to a specialized service station. However, you can change the chain yourself, saving a lot of money. Such work does not require special technical skills, but it has many nuances. By following the recommendations given in the article, you can achieve the reliability and durability of the transmission of your motorcycle.
Tools
To work with the chain, you need enough extensive list tools. The most important tool in this case will be a special chain riveter - such devices are produced by many companies, so finding it will be relatively easy. The cost of the tool varies between 1000-5000 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and the steel grade used. From some masters with experience we hear that the riveter is successfully replaced by a hammer, chisel and core. This point of view is completely erroneous - it will not be possible to achieve a reliable connection of the chain with their help, and, most likely, it will soon break.
In addition, changing sprockets and chain will require the following tools:
- Torque wrench with comfortable grip;
- A set of keys and heads;
- Compact grinder with a diamond blade for metal;
- Grease, as well as cleaner and chain cleaner.
It is better not to neglect the selection of high-quality tools, since it will be very unpleasant if the key breaks in the process of work and the motorcycle remains half disassembled. Remember that the chain will have to be replaced regularly, so it is worth buying a quality set once and then using it for several years.
Dismantling
First you need to remove the chain cover and unscrew all the bolts holding the cover of the drive sprocket. After removing the plastic covers, screw all the fasteners into their original places to prevent their loss. There is always a considerable amount of dirt under the cover of the star - it is better to wash it off using a special spray. After that, rinse the assembly with water and gently wipe off any remaining liquid with a non-abrasive cloth.
If the agenda is to replace the stars, you need to loosen their fastenings by unscrewing the corresponding bolts. This is where you need help as the rear wheel sprocket bolts are usually blocked by the swingarm and the bike has to be moved back and forth. Now it remains only to loosen the nut rear axle- however, no fasteners need to be completely removed yet! The motorcycle is installed on the center stand or a tackle, after which you need to finally unscrew the rear axle nut and remove the wheel. After completing this operation, begin to remove the stars, completely unscrewing the bolts that fix them.
To greatly facilitate the installation of a new chain, it is worth cutting the existing transmission mechanism. Some motorcycle models have special device, called a breaker (Chain Breaker) - just lower it onto the chain and clamp it to knock out the pin from it. If it is missing, the chain can be riveted with a punch included in the riveting kit. However, experienced mechanics say that such a tool breaks too easily, and they advise cutting off the pin heads with a grinder first. After that, it will be very easy to break the link - if you do not have all of the above tools, the chain can be sawn with a hacksaw, although such work will take a lot of time.
If you are interested in how to change the chain using a special tool, then you should know that. A sleeve for cutting the chain is installed in the clamping mechanism of the riveter, after which it is combined with a pin with a filed head. The clamping bolt is wrapped with a pre-prepared torque wrench with a force of 10-12 Nm. It remains only to insert the punch and screw it in until the pin falls out and the chain breaks.
Installation
If you're going to be changing sprockets, cutting the chain can be dispensed with as you'll still have to install the new gear by hand. However, if they are saved, this operation can significantly reduce the complexity of the work. If you have purchased new chain similar manufacturer, just connect it with the old one to achieve the desired result. Otherwise, you can use a strong synthetic thread or wire. The resulting long chain must be pulled over the stars, gradually turning them.
To understand how to replace the chain in this way, you need to wait until the old gear part is not in contact with the sprockets. Do not forget to generously smear the splines included in the engagement, grease. Now the old chain can be removed and the new one can be installed. The leading star must be put in its place and the mount must be made. The next step will be the riveting of the chain, which is considered the most critical process in the entire replacement procedure.
If you are wondering how to rivet a chain with a hammer and chisel, you can read the recommendations below and do everything manually - however, the probability of breaking the transmission mechanism will be very high. Therefore, it is better to take a special riveter that limits the movement of the splines - this will keep the part seals intact. Grease the pins generously special grease for the chain, after which we put oil seals on them and lubricate them again. Now you need to thread them into the rollers, install one more oil seals, re-lubricate and fix the lock cover on top. We install this link in the riveter in such a way that the pins fall into a special groove - all that remains is to wrap the clamping bolt until they rest against its base.
Now you need to install a special nozzle for riveting pins into the tool. Press it against the surface of the chain - it is almost impossible to miss, since the tool has a special recess that makes it easier to aim. Using torque wrench, tighten the clamping bolt until the end freewheel. Depending on the chain manufacturer, this value can be in the range of 15-20 Nm, however, you should be guided by a sharp increase in the required force to turn the bolt. Do not try to overtighten the bolt too much, because in this case the lock will lose mobility, which will lead to accelerated wear transmission.
It remains only to install the rear star and make the mount. Now you need to reverse order install the wheel, but also do not tighten its axle. Check that all parts are in place and that you have not lost any fasteners.
Ending
The next step is to adjust the chain - for normal, the transmission mechanism sags by 25-35 mm. Depending on which mechanism your motorcycle is using, you may need to move the axle through a special slot while controlling it with adjusting bolts or turn the eccentric tool. By setting desired level slack, tighten the rear axle nuts and check that rear wheel completely fixed.
Now start stretching all the fasteners to right moment using a torque wrench - all values can be found in the motorcycle manual. Starting with the rear sprocket, tightening its bolts crosswise to avoid damaging the threads, fix the front sprocket and check that the chain rotates without significant slack in a certain area. Before using the motorcycle, the transmission mechanism will need to be lubricated using a special spray.
If you purchased the wrong chain model and need to learn how to shorten it, you should use the above recommendations. Using a punch, break the mechanism and remove the required number of links from it. After that, carefully lubricate all components and install the splines, not forgetting the seals and rollers of the friction pairs. However, such an operation should be performed only as a last resort - before buying a chain, you need to clarify whether it is suitable for a particular motorcycle model.
Hard work
Replacing the chain is not particularly easy, although this operation does not require special technical knowledge. The problem lies in the presence of a huge number of nuances - the transmission mechanism can be pulled, crushed, or simply mounted incorrectly. Therefore, you should check all the recommendations and use only a quality tool. If you do not feel confident that you can perform all the procedures correctly, it is better to entrust the replacement of the chain to specialists. In a motorcycle service station, they will help you make repairs within a minimum time, and they will also give a guarantee of the reliability of the transmission.
Most motorists believe that the puller oil filter- a useless tool, which, if anyone should have it, is only for car service workers. Drivers who have already collided self replacement engine oils with a problem when the filter cannot be manually unscrewed, have already acquired a suitable puller. Picking up this tool is not so easy: there are many modifications on the market, but not all of them will be suitable for maintenance. specific model car.
Types of pullers manufactured industrially
Depending on the design features and the size of the filter, to unscrew it, pullers of one kind or another are used. Their body or base is usually made of steel and protected with a matt or silver chrome finish. A number of products, if provided for by the design, have plastic lining on the handles, which greatly simplifies the work with such a tool.
Almost all pullers allow you to unscrew both oil cleaners (hereinafter referred to as cleaners) and oil cups - filter housings with a replaceable insert. All pullers can first of all be divided into universal and designed for unscrewing filters of only one diameter or type.
Among the first, the following main types are distinguished:
- crab;
- belt;
- chain;
- tape;
- sickle-shaped and in the form of pincers;
- with 2 adjustable grips.
Their versatility is relative - not every filter can be unscrewed with them. Firstly, because they are designed for a certain range of cleaner diameters, and for some pullers it is wide enough, while for others it is not very wide, and secondly, because of their own design features and dimensions. After all, the location, as well as the availability of the filter on different cars differ, and therefore any tool in one engine compartment will work easily and simply, and in another, perhaps, it is impossible at all.
Only one type of tool is classified as a narrow profile - the “cup” oil filter pullers. They got this name for their appearance reminiscent of the kitchen appliance of the same name.
The design and method of using the "cup" puller
This type of puller is produced for filters of all sizes, but each individual cleaner is only of one diameter. Therefore, when buying a cup, you need to be especially careful. This key should ideally fit the filters installed on the car engine. Even a difference of a few millimeters will turn the cup into a useless accessory.
Owners of auto repair shops immediately purchase whole sets of these pullers, including up to 30 wrenches for filters of various diameters. Such sets are supplied with a suitcase in which the cups are conveniently arranged according to the size numbers.
The "cup" pullers in their "bottom" have a square hole for the tip of the socket wrench. Some manufacturers additionally make a hexagonal "bottom" - for a cap tool. Many pullers, primarily their sets, come with a “cup” hole tip that the key is put on, and some come with everything. essential tool, including cap and end.
The “cup” puller is put on the ribbed top of the filter with a wide open part, on the inner circumference of which there are edges. They must match those on the cleaner in quantity and size. Otherwise, the puller will not fit snugly and unscrewing the filter will be difficult or impossible. " Cup" is considered the most convenient instrument. It is compact in itself and with it, as a rule, it is easier to "crawl" to the filter. Moreover, a properly selected "cup" never slips relative to the circumference of the filter housing, which sometimes happens with some other types of pullers.
Details about the universal "crab"
The “crab” puller consists of two plates, which are the body, and 3 grippers installed between them. On working surface paws are notched to prevent them from slipping on the filter surface. The grippers are controlled by means of a clamping mechanism located in the middle of the crab body and between the swivel mounts of the paws.
The mechanism itself, as well as the puller as a whole, is actuated by a special attached key - this is one of the varieties of the design - either by an end or cap tool, under which a corresponding tip is provided that comes out of the body. The scheme of working with the "crab" is identical to the process of unscrewing the filter with a "cup" puller. You must first fasten it to the end of the cleaner. It is in this part of the work that the “crab” is fundamentally different from the cup, which makes it universal. In the initial position, its paws are moved apart and are able to cover the filter of the maximum diameter allowed for its design.
After throwing the grips onto the smaller cleaner, the clamping mechanism is activated. In this case, the “crab” will be able to capture the filter, the diameter of which corresponds to the minimum allowable for the puller design. After the paws grab the cleaner, you must continue to work with the key, put on the clamping mechanism drive. This will unscrew the filter. Moreover, the stronger the applied force, the more reliable the grip of the paws of the “crab” will be - slippage is excluded.
Depending on the “crab” model, it can be used to remove and install filters having a diameter in the range of 60–125 mm. This puller, like the "cup", is very good when working in a narrow and limited space.
What do you need to know about the rest of the pullers?
The oil filter chain puller, depending on the design, allows you to unscrew and tighten filters with diameters ranging from 60–140 mm. It is a handle and a chain attached to it at one end, which acts as an adjustable grip. Most pullers are equipped with a single row chain, but there are models with a double row. The second end of the grip, depending on the design, can be free or passed through a special groove located in the handle and having a lock.
At the first version of the puller, before unscrewing the filter, the chain is tightly wound around its body, almost to the end. The remaining segment of the grip is hooked to the hook on the handle. After that, the puller rests on the filter and acts like a lever. The second version of the tool has a ready-made loop from the chain, which has adjustable dimensions and immediately pounces on the filter. After that, pulling the end of the grip passed through the groove, tighten the loop and press on the handle of the tool in the right direction. At the same time, the groove lock securely holds the chain, preventing it from loosening its grip.
Belt pullers have a working diameter range of 25–160 mm. A special belt is installed in them to capture the filter, forming a loop. It can be fixed at both ends in a square steel bar. A belt is wound around it after a loop is thrown onto the filter. Then a suitable key is thrown onto the rod and the cleaner is unscrewed. Another type of puller is similar in design and use to the second type of chain tool.
The operating range of tape filters is one of the narrowest - the difference between the minimum and maximum allowable filter diameters can reach only 30 mm. They use a band of steel or plastic, fixed at both ends to the handle and forming a loop, which in some designs can be slightly adjusted in size. After throwing the grip on the handle, force is applied and it acts like a lever. The density of filter coverage is achieved in some designs with a screw on the handle, and in others - due to natural tightness when unscrewing. Most pullers of this type most often do not cope with filters that are too tight.
The sickle-shaped and pincer-shaped tools have 2 working curved jaws with notches and 1 or 2 handles. Their working range of capture is also small, in some designs it is adjustable. They work with these pullers, as with ordinary pliers - they grab the filter, squeeze it and turn it off.
The puller with 2 adjustable jaws consists of a thick narrow base plate, a screw and paws with notches on the working part. The threaded ends of the grips are moved in the longitudinal slots of the base and fixed in the desired position with a nut. When tightening the screw passing through the thread of the hole in the center of the plate, after it is firmly pressed against the filter, the latter is unscrewed.
Do-it-yourself belt puller - there is nothing easier
To make this key with your own hands, you will need a steel hexagon. Its standard size can be 19 or 17 - under the appropriate key, to whom it is more convenient. We cut off a workpiece about 150 mm long or another size from the hexagon rod. This must be determined by trying on in the engine compartment own car so that the made puller makes it as convenient as possible to unscrew the filter.
Then, along the hexagon in the middle, we make a cut with a grinder 55–60 mm long and 5–6 mm wide, which should pass through opposite corners of the section and parallel to the side faces of the bar. After that, we process the workpiece on emery - we remove sharp edges and burrs. Taking the old but intact car belt security, cut off a piece of the desired length from it, depending on the diameter installed filter. The longer the length of the belt, the more versatile the puller will be, but it will also become less convenient to work with it when unscrewing small cleaners. IN general case a piece of 500–550 mm is enough.
We insert the belt into the slot of the workpiece, align and center in it. Then, on the hexagon opposite the belt, we make markings for drilling 3 holes at equal distances from each other. We remove the belt from the cut. We drill through holes with a diameter of 5.5 mm. After that, on one side we expand the holes to 6.5 mm. Reaming is performed only up to the slot. In holes with a diameter of 5.5 mm, using a tap, we cut an M6 thread.
We melt both ends of the belt with a lighter so that they do not bloom, and then put them together and thread them into the cut of the hexagonal blank opposite the holes. Got a loop. The ends of the belt opposite it should protrude from the slot by about 10 mm. We take a nail, and preferably a steel bar 6 mm in diameter, heat it well and, pushing alternately through 3 openings of the hexagon, burn holes in the tape with it. It should be burned through, and not perforated, so that the belt in these places does not delaminate and does not fluff.
Carefully, so as not to displace the loop, we put the future puller on the anvil and use a hammer to clamp the belt into the slot. Then we screw 3 bolts into the holes of the hexagon. They must be M6 threaded. The self-assembled oil filter belt puller is ready to use. The procedure for working with such a key is as follows. We put the loop on the filter, and then we begin to wind the belt around the hexagon. To unscrew it, do it counterclockwise. When the belt is fully wound, you need to take the key (17 or 19), put it on the hexagon and unscrew the filter.
If the belt option did not justify itself, we make a chain
To make your own chain puller, you will need a piece of half-inch or inch used pipe with uncorroded, undamaged walls and threads at one end. The length of the piece must be no less than the height of the filter. We select a suitable plug for the pipe so that it is wound onto its thread. You will also need a bicycle chain.
We drill a hole with a diameter of 9 mm in the center of the plug. With the help of a triangular file, we give it a square shape with our own hands. Processing is carried out until the dimensions of the hole begin to fit under the ratchet, or rather, under its limit switch. The latter should fit into the resulting opening of the plug rather tightly, with almost no backlash. We wind the plug onto the end of the pipe and tighten it very tightly. So that it does not unscrew when using the puller, it is recommended to grab it to the pipe by welding.
As a last resort, you can try to crush the metal at the end of the thread using a blunt chisel and hammer, but only carefully so as not to deform the pipe. We make markings on the pipe for drilling holes for the chain. For a reliable grasp of the filter, 2 of its segments are sufficient, mounted on the puller opposite the opposite ends of the cleaner. But you can also make a 3rd hole, between the 2 extreme ones, under another 1 chain. In this case, the puller will become more versatile, as it will allow you to unscrew filters with different heights.
Having passed a chain through one of the drilled holes in the pipe, we throw it around the filter with a loop, trying on how long the pieces will be needed. We measure so much that the puller in the unclenched state is freely worn on the cleaner. You can even make some margin of the chain along the length for filters whose diameter is larger than that installed on the car. But keep in mind that it will be less convenient to work with such a puller. According to the measured length, we disassemble the chain into separate fragments - we squeeze out the pins and disconnect the links in this place.
Having passed the obtained segments through the holes in the pipe, we make loops out of them - we connect the links of the ends and press in the pins. To unscrew the filter, we put the puller loops on it and, if necessary, when the chains are too long, manually turn the pipe counterclockwise, thereby choosing the slack. Then we insert a ratchet into the plug and with its help we begin to dismantle the cleaner.
Despite a fairly large variety, construction market, tools for screwing or screwing various pipe connections, Special attention experts pay to the chain key. chain key is prominent representative manual metalwork tool designed for the installation of pipes or fittings in hard-to-reach places. Such equipment allows you to work in conditions where the use of a standard adjustable wrench or sponge wrench is impossible.
Design features
The simplicity of the design of the chain wrench makes it very convenient and quite easy to use. Any of its models consists of a clamping mechanism and a handle. The clamping mechanism includes a chain and "cheeks" attached to the handle with bolts. The main element in the design of the chain wrench, of course, is a metal monolithic handle. At one end of its base there is a threshold, which serves as a kind of support for pipes. On the nut there are special notches that protect against the occurrence of scrolling of the pipes being held. The next important element is the chain. During operation, it wraps around the workpiece along the entire diameter. The chain is attached to the base of the key with a retainer that allows you to hold the generated voltage.
Special jaws and an adjustable flexible chain provide the necessary fixation of the pipes.
Due to the absence of any fixed elements in the design of the key, it is possible to work in confined spaces.
To use a chain wrench, it will be enough if there is a distance equal to the thickness of the chain between the structural parts and the pipe. In operation, the chain encircles the desired product around the perimeter, and the threshold in this case acts as an obstacle to sliding. In turn, the lock that fixes the chain in a predetermined position does not allow the initial girth of the pipe to weaken. Due to the uniform distribution of the applied forces over the area of the products, the risk of various deformations or damage is eliminated.
The principle of operation of the chain wrench is as follows: the chain, fixed on the handle, is thrown over the pipe and tightened tightly, resting directly on the material with the sponges. Then, when applying efforts (pressing the end of the handle), the key turns in the required direction. At the same time, the jagged ends of the "cheeks" rolling over the product provide its maximum clamping with subsequent self-braking. The chain in this case acts as a fixing element. Usually it comes with a margin and, if necessary, can be easily replaced.
Working with a chain wrench is simple, but you should remember a few simple rules:
- thoroughly clean the teeth of debris that has fallen into them before and after finishing work;
- it is strictly forbidden to use any gasket materials between the pipe and the chain;
- do not increase the wrench lever with additional pipe cuts. This may break his handle.
Caution should be exercised when using this tool when working with parts with high finish parameters or with thin-walled pipes. Significant compression can lead to abrasion of surfaces or collapse of the product.
The main materials in the manufacture of chain wrenches are aluminum and steel. Keys made on the basis of high-strength steel will last a long time. To facilitate the design of the key, aluminum is additionally introduced into the composition, but this does not affect the strength characteristics in any way. Aluminum reduces total mass key by an average of 40%. Often aluminum is used in the manufacture of handles.
Specifications of the chain wrench
In the operation of the chain key, the following main parameters are distinguished:
- the ability to use the tool in places with difficult access;
- for small loads, the wrench is equipped with a one-piece forged alloy steel handle and a special sponge;
- the key works with any metal pipes of various diameters;
- at heavy loads some chain wrench models have variable (double) jaws made from the same alloy steel. Such a key is considered indispensable when it becomes necessary to have a sufficiently rigid grip of the key with the pipe. In order to increase the amount of effort applied, an extension arm can be additionally used. Depending on the nature of the work, the chain wrench can be modified by placing replaceable jaws in the structure.
As with any other plumbing tool, an important factor is the quality of the chain key itself. Many mistakenly believe that the main criterion for choosing a chain wrench is allowable size pharynx. However, it is not. When choosing a tool, you should be based on the quality of the key, especially on its handle and "cheeks", since, as a rule, most of all loads are placed on them. It is very good if the key is made of high strength steel. In the future, this will determine its wear resistance in operation. Also, when choosing this type of equipment, you should pay attention to trademarks worldwide. well-known manufacturers, which have long earned the trust of many consumers.
To date, both classic and lightweight key models are produced. Often, standard models are characterized by a greater mass than lightweight keys.
To the most famous trademarks, which are in demand among buyers, include RIDGID, REED, SPARTA and STAYER chain wrenches.
The most reliable keys, known to professionals all over the world, are currently RIDGID. This company produces more than twenty types of different keys. The products of the world leader are characterized by high strength, reliable grip for pipes of different diameters, as well as an ergonomic handle and its length.
The choice of such a tool is quite wide, so be sure to weigh all the pros and cons before settling on any particular manufacturer.
