How a homemade electric motor works. Homemade electric car from Mikhalych

08.03.2020

Let's remember the story:

The end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries - the first self-propelled carriages with internal combustion steam engines and (well, come on) electric ones! By the way, it was the electric car that was the first to overcome the speed limit of 100 km / h. However, then cars developed faster and by the beginning of the 30s, electric cars were forgotten.

Let's look at today. Since 1988, Toyota has been producing an electric car (Prius model). The bottom line is this: You sit down in the car, turn the key, move the control lever to the "Drive" position and immediately (!) Start moving. What you are driving, you don't know. Usually small trips take place on electric traction. When the car "understands" that the batteries are dead, it starts the gasoline engine and charges the battery. An emergency is also provided - if the batteries are dead, there is no gasoline - you pull the red handle in the trunk and (oh, miracle!) The batteries are charged, you can go.

A similar situation was described to me at NAMI, where they have been studying such a hybrid mobile for 4 years. This model also came across in the secondary car market (approximately $ 8.5 thousand for 98? 99g.v.). GM has similar developments, and Europe has a lot of small (1-2 seater) electric hybrid vehicles used in green areas or, simply, on golf courses.

Let's get back to the dominant personality trait of the site's author - the desire to save money.

Paying $ 8.5 thousand for a right-handed Japanese miracle - the hand does not rise, and the wallet does not allow, but how much time, effort and money it will cost to assemble an electric vehicle on your own in the simplest version:

Estimate: 1. Body (on bridges, plastic, self-made, with documents) - $ 1000. - pay attention to the weight of the structure. Mine without engine and battery weighs 350kg. It is important. - A homemade plastic car is not as rare as it might seem at the beginning. Most recently - in early August, in the newspaper "From hand to hand" in the "other" section, it was for sale. Who seeks will always find! (In the end - stick together).

2. Salon. Two front seats from a Porsche-924 car, a rear seat cushion from a Toyota Supra, 4m2 of carpet from a store and all this is passed through a workshop for sewing covers (all seats are used) - $ 400. - Your imagination can be unlimited: the country has a lot of precious woods, fine leathers and very expensive acoustic fabrics.

3. Power unit (used). Engine from a decommissioned and almost completely ruined Bulgarian loader (3.6 kW, 84 V, 1400 rpm, 24 Nm) - $ 200. - Would rather use a 10kW, 120V motor - $650 - brand new, under warranty. (any office supplying spare parts for forklifts).

4.battery. Seven pieces (12 V? 200 Ah), starter, Italian. In a wholesale company - 2600 rubles / piece, in a store - 4000 rubles / piece. - Do not try to use domestic batteries - you will only get the nominal capacity the first few times (lead for batteries should be from fresh ore, and not from remelted old batteries, and there are no lead ores in our country, at least for battery manufacturers). - Ideally, you need to use traction batteries for loaders, but the price is 3 times higher! Why for a car a battery costs $80, and for a loader (of equal capacity) - $250, guess for yourself (not difficult).

5. Miscellaneous. The wheels are smaller in width (rolling friction must be reduced to min), however, its standard load capacity is indicated on the wheel, calculate, choose with a small margin. The engine control unit. Options: 1) From a new loader, relay, 6 speeds - $ 400. 2) Thyristor with smooth regulation - $ 1100. 3) A huge rheostat - at the grandfathers on the Mitinsky radio rink (you will be the only one who needs it) - several bottles of universal currency.

5) Personally, with 110% assistance from friends of electronics engineers, I am trying to build an electronic control unit. Get it - I'll tell you.

A flange connecting the engine and transmission (in my case, the VAZ 2101 gearbox). Made in the right place - the company "Kardan-Balance" - $ 70. This thing is best done by professionals who know automotive specifics - they will tell you whether it is possible to get by with a rubber clutch or insert a cross or something else ...

Plan-washer - connection of the engine and gearbox. I managed to make it myself, but the consistency should be no worse than 0.2 mm, or you will get tired of changing the gearbox input shaft bearing and engine bearings.

Total: Approximately $3,000 spent.

300 hours of working time for one average qualified engineer. He is a welder, he is a mechanic, he is an electrician. For this money and time I have: A car weighing 850 kg (4 seats), battery 84 V x 200 Ah, Mileage 200 km. Speed: 60 - 75 km / h in a straight line, up to 90 km / h for a short time (for overtaking) or downhill. 35 km / h starts and accelerates to this speed uphill 12%.

Technical - Economic justification. The number of recharge cycles to full capacity with proper use is 800 times (for advanced Italian ones, for a reasonable price). 800 times x 200 km = 160,000 km. The cost of one charge, given to 1 km of travel.

(200 A x 84 V) / (1000 n) x C \u003d 25 rubles n - charge efficiency \u003d 60% (0.6) C - cost of 1 kWh (90 kopecks)

So: 12.5 kop/km. The cost of the battery, reduced to 1 km of track. (2600 rubles 7 pcs) / 160,000 km = 11.4 kopecks / km. Only 24 kop/km.

The prototype of the VAZ 2101 with a flow rate of 8 l / 100 km, AI 92 (10 rubles / l) 80 rubles / 100 km \u003d 80 kopecks / km.

Add here regular oil changes, filters, carburetor adjustment, ignition valves, overhaul. engine repair, finally ... How much did it turn out? 1.2 rubles/km and 24 kopecks/km.

5 (five) times cheaper, gentlemen! 5 times!!!

Any questions?

I foresee one question: "Where to put the saved money?"

Another progmotic question: what will the traffic police say?

Answer: I don't know yet. But there are electric cars in US, they drove on the roads. AZLK also has electric vehicles (2 models). VAZs somehow, about 20 years ago, rode around Moscow with batteries. UAZs for military hospitals existed with electric motors. And there was even an auto- (pardon) electric run. Now there is an electric ZIL truck with very good parameters. They were, they are, they drive ... What, in fact, is my car worse?

So, you have decided to build an electric car. We can congratulate you on this achievement.
But before choosing the units for the future e-mobile, it is necessary to clearly define the "technical design" of the e-mobile. This idea is formed from the following points:

-E-mobile body. Options:
- a standard body from a factory-made passenger car. Pluses: the minimum number or complete absence of alterations in the "tin" direction; the standard view of the e-mobile and, accordingly, the minimum attention of the traffic police to your e-mobile; the possibility of building an e-mobile "by one person" in a short period of time. Cons: high probability of unsuccessful layout of units inside; heavier weight.
- homemade body. Pluses: an endless field for creativity in the appearance and layout of the e-mobile; less weight; the possibility of using composite materials and non-standard units to improve the design and driving performance; an extraordinary view, different from the main stream of vehicles. Cons: advanced tools, in most cases not common even in advanced home workshops; increased labor intensity and requirements for the qualification of the master; increased attention of traffic police officers to the e-mobile and, accordingly, a lower probability of registering your e-mobile with the issuance of license plates.

- Power unit, Consists of a source of electricity with a consumption regulator, an electric motor and a mechanical transmission.
- a source of electricity. Options:
-rechargeable batteries. Consideration should be given to the mode of operation intended for them, operating temperatures, capacity, cost, dimensions and weight.
- Supercapacitors (ionistors). The same requirements as for batteries.
- Generators. There are several types of power generators. The main difference between generators and other sources is the production of electricity by a method that includes mechanical energy conversion. At the moment, there are gasoline-diesel-gas (fuel) generators, thermal generators in combination with Peltier elements, molecular engines and many other types.
- Power consumption regulating devices. These can be understood as voltage regulators and converters, current regulators. The main required characteristics depend on the parameters of the electric motor and other consumers of electricity.
- Electric motors. The required characteristics for each case are extremely individual. The only thing that can be advised is to choose an engine more powerful than necessary (within reason: for an e-mobile weighing up to one ton, for confident acceleration using a gearbox and moving at a speed of up to 100 km / h, a sequential excitation electric motor with a power of around 7-8 kW is enough; for confident acceleration without gearbox - more than 12kW) To select an electric motor, it is necessary to take into account: the type of electric motor, operating voltage, power, current consumption, type of excitation, rated speed, torque, weight and dimensions.
There are the following types of electric motors:
- with parallel excitation.
- with sequential excitation.
- mixed excitement
- brushless brushless motors
- asynchronous, incl. with vector control.

Mechanical transmission. Basically, you can choose between a transmission with a gearbox and a transmission without a gearbox. The presence of a gearbox, of course, leads to inconvenience in driving an e-mobile and greater mechanical losses, but nevertheless it allows you to start off and move confidently in non-standard conditions (starting off and moving uphill, in deep snow and mud) to use a less powerful electric motor. About the increase / decrease in weight, nothing is deliberately given, because. a powerful engine with a differential gearbox can weigh more than a less powerful one with a gearbox.
It is also worth taking note that the use of a powerful electric motor without a gearbox will require the electric motor to control torque, and not speed (as it seems at first). Such regulation can be: partially brushless motors and fully - asynchronous with vector control. The use of other types of electric motors without a gearbox can be advised for a very light e-mobile.

"12 commandments of the self-made motorist"

These 12 commandments were published in the 80s in the magazine "Modeler-Konstruktor". They were written by an experienced car builder, who at one time made a sensation with his car design, as they used to say "wagon layout" (now they have turned into "minivans") "Minimax" - P.S. Zach.
Some of the tips refer exclusively to building a car from scratch, some are somewhat outdated, but the general meaning of these "Commandments" is the best fit for a "first look" at building and 100% homemade and a kit car. The main thing at the first stage is not the appearance, engine power or cross-country ability, the main thing is to evaluate yourself, whether YOU are capable of it...

I. SUPER TASK - FIRST OF ALL!
Usually they start with the immediate goal: I want to make "like this" car! They don't think about their top priority. But sooner or later it will reveal itself, most often - halfway, when a lot has already been done ... The classification of "homemade" will help to understand oneself.
Simplifier Usually proceeds from a common misconception that it is cheaper to make than to buy. The sooner he realizes that this is really a delusion, the less money and effort he will spend in vain. A special category of simplistic people - more often unskilled - is trying to make a "real" car (that is, indistinguishable from an industrial one); the sooner they realize that you can't surpass a car factory in terms of attractiveness or consumer qualities of a car, the cheaper this delusion will cost them.
Maximalist So you can call those who want to impress others without fail. Make it so that no one ... A prestigious car! So that either in form - supersport, or in content - computer-complex-automated. As a last resort, at least with retractable headlights, sliding windows, air conditioning and a stereo color music center!
An individual This is someone for whom industrially produced cars are not suitable, who needs a special-purpose car: an all-terrain vehicle or amphibian, a self-propelled cottage, a city motorized carriage or a jeep tractor.
The creator is the one who cannot help doing. He derives enormous satisfaction from the very process of creation. In the limit, even like this: I did it, but there’s no need to ride.

So who are you? Do not feel sorry for yourself in self-determination. This will help you save your labor and time.

II. PUZZLE!
Take courage and throw out on paper the main characteristics of your dreams: purpose, capacity and carrying capacity, speed, engine type, layout, chassis, dimensions and weight. Put down the date and set aside in a short box. In a week, try to make the second option. Third... Seventh...

At the same time, it is recommended to “splash out” even if at first there is no feeling that you are ready for this. Even D. I. Mendeleev argued that any hypothesis is better than none. In the end, instead of the erroneous one, another, more correct one will appear. Over time, its fallacy will also manifest itself. This process is endless. But each new hypothesis, as a rule, is better than the previous one. And here we wish the developer common sense to stop in time, because the essence is not in constant search, but in the result.

III. DO NOT TAKE WHAT YOU CAN DO WITHOUT
To be honest, miracles fascinate everyone. But such fundamental qualities as cross-country ability, capacity or maneuverability, or secondary ones - for example, automatic control of the engine and gearbox, body heating or, say, ground clearance, can also become unusual.

Do not overload your project with an abundance of "tsatsok", the main concept of your car may disappear behind them. As soon as you feel signs of such danger, make a list of what you want to see in your creation. And then write out from there what you can’t do without. The result of this work should be a project of a vehicle containing the necessary complex of "miracles".

The rest is divided into two parts. Find the strength in yourself to forget most of it forever, leaving only what you can do later, in the second place, after the unit you created will go. The moving machine will pose new, as yet unknown problems. Taking them into account, you will compile in order a now more specific (in terms of their importance) list of improvements.

Generally speaking, everything is much more visible from the seat of the completed car!

IV. THINK AGAIN: IF YOU CAN NOT DO IT, DON'T DO IT!
Before taking on the direct work on the machine, it's time to re-evaluate whether your desire is worth the gigantic work that you doom yourself to. Moreover, consider how many unforeseen sorrows await you on the chosen path! Isn't it better to buy a ready-made car? If you just want to tinker with hardware, buy an old Moskvich or Zaporozhets. Well, if this is not so, then we sincerely wish you success and courage, for you are now joining the free brotherhood of self-made people.

V. DEVIL NOT MUCH AND NOT LITTLE, BUT AS NECESSARY!
One extreme among do-it-yourselfers (first of all, engineers of various specialties) are "draughtsmen". They draw general views, then - options, develop designs for almost all components and parts. As a rule, this is the fear of taking up a hacksaw and a drill, a hammer and a chisel.

The other extreme (usually humanitarians and drivers) are "pullers". They will put bridges - front and rear, put profiles-spars on them and begin to cook the crossbars. Then it turns out that the engine is not assembled there ... The "pullers" are not shy about redoing it several times. Having completed half of the work, they sometimes find themselves in front of an insoluble problem - the conceived machine does not work. It's even worse when you have to "dress" a ready-made undercarriage in a "ceremonial outer garment" - a body that is not made according to the "figure" ... It is unlikely that the traffic police will like such a car.

Acceptable, as usual, a reasonable middle. The layout on a scale of 1:5, a general view (in three projections), a blueprint (preferably in full size) and a three-dimensional model in the same scale - this is the first initial minimum. Moreover, the model is needed here to the same extent as the drawing. To be limited only by the general appearance (and layout) is imprudent.

When creating nodes, everything that can be done without drawings is best done in place, if necessary, cutting out templates from cardboard. If you can’t do without drawings of knots, do them 1:1. Keep in mind that the 1:2 scale is the most misleading, and get used to getting by with only two - 1:5 and 1:1. True, the general view can be drawn at 1:10, and even 1:20. It makes sense to prepare drawings for parts, if only they have to be ordered somewhere.

VI. AND THE HOME "AUTOZAVOD" NEED A DIRECTOR!
First of all, "production" needs to find a room for working on the machine: it should be separate and ... warm - it's not work in the cold either. Don't waste money on tools. The main machines of the "car factory" should be a workbench with a large vise and an electric drill. An electric abrasive cutter will also be a good help. Do not follow the example of those who, from building a car, switch to collecting all kinds of tools, creating a kind of tool museum ... "critical mass", and it is time to ruthlessly reduce it. But keep the current tool ready: this is not work when you need a chisel, but it is blunt, you take a drill, but it is chipped.

Basic materials - both profile and sheet - must be prepared in advance. You can, of course, allow yourself to interrupt work along the way in order to get some special material or fasteners, but it’s still better not to spend working time on this. It is necessary to appreciate the rhythm of work, not to be distracted by "plugging holes" because of organizational turmoil. If you work not alone, but in two or three, this is even more important, because preparation for work is more often done individually, and collective downtime is much more expensive.

VII. MODEL! LAYOUT!
The look of the car is great. And in general terms, it is not too easy to work it out. But your car will move next to "Sputnik" and "Tavria", which were worked on not only by designers, but also by designers. And at the same time they made dozens of models, including life-size ones! Therefore, it would be quite good to follow their example. When you have finished your model, look at it with a stern outsider's eye. Show knowledgeable people. Do the second option, maybe the third one. After all, the appearance, in essence, can be worked out only at this stage. Then it will be too late.

Then it is advisable to take on a life-size layout. You can insert ready-made units that you are going to use into it: chassis (suspensions - front and rear), engine with gearbox, steering, seat, front glass, etc. The body is reproduced in wood and cardboard. Reiki imitate profiles, plywood and cardboard - cladding.

The layout is necessary to clarify the relative position of the nodes, the placement of the driver and passengers, checking the convenience of boarding and disembarking through the doors, approaches to servicing the engine and chassis. And in general, it allows you to visually feel your future creation.

Layout is a powerful tool in creating individual nodes. They are preliminarily reproduced in the form of profile templates, longitudinal and transverse. One, quite characteristic, for trying on may be enough.

VIII. FOUR PILLARS OF AUTO-DESIGN - DESIGN, TECHNOLOGY, READY ASSEMBLY, MATERIALS
When creating any node, you can, of course, proceed from purely constructive considerations: make it functional and durable, with minimal weight and dimensions. And for this design, select the appropriate technology and materials. However, the do-it-yourselfer, to an even greater extent than the designer of a car factory, needs to provide for the possibility of implementing his idea. After all, he is his own supply department, his own technologist, worker. Therefore, the criterion for the optimality of the design of the do-it-yourselfer is special.

Difficult-to-manufacture parts are not a sin to borrow. For example, springs or suspension springs. And they will immediately determine the design of the entire assembly. You can put at the head of optimization material that is available for any reason. For example, for a car frame, rectangular tubes are very advantageous.

The “four-pillar” stability of the do-it-yourselfer lies in the flexibility of using that “pillar” that facilitates the creation of this node, transferring the center of gravity of his work to the strongest (in solving this problem) support.

IX. WANTING IS NOT THE MATTER; TO BE ABLE - A QUARTER OF THE CASE; CAN IS HALF THE MATTER... BUT THE MAIN THING IS TO HAVE THE TALENT OF THE "FINISHER"
Even the most powerful desire is no stronger than ineptitude. But if there are no plumbing skills? There are two ways: simpler - to assemble a company in which specialists would complement each other. And harder, but giving you independence - to gain qualifications, which is also better to do under someone else's guidance or in a company.

There is another factor, no less important. This is consistency, character, will, forcing you to make an effort on yourself when fatigue, physical and moral, overcomes you. How many weak-minded people gave up their work halfway... But what satisfaction does the overcoming of temporary weakness give! Having reached the goal, you will receive not only your direct result, but also feel the joy of victory over yourself, and this, perhaps, will become the main reward.

X. REMEMBER SAFETY AT WORK AND ON THE ROAD
In working on your creation, you will have to carry out a variety of technological operations. Some are not safe. At the factory there is a special safety service, and at the home "car factory" - only you yourself. A circular saw or an abrasive cutter can cut off a finger. Grinding machine - leave without an eye, heavy units - press down. What about fire hazard? All this is very serious.

No less serious are the safety elements necessary in the design of a homemade product in case of a traffic accident. The placement of the gas tank, the protection of the driver and passengers by the body structure from impact or when the car is turned over are issues of so-called passive safety. But factors such as visibility, brakes, steering are also directly related to safety.

Given the vital importance of these questions, it is not enough to keep them in mind. List your weaknesses on paper. Find the strength in yourself to beware in time if some requirements are not met, or even abandon the scheme, layout or design solution that does not provide adequate security. In such a case, "maybe" can end badly.

XI. "EPOXY" RESPECT TO THE FEAR...
Not everyone knows that the production, where products are glued from fiberglass on epoxy resins, belongs to the category of especially harmful, and there is usually special supervision over compliance with safety regulations: production sites are equipped with forced exhaust ventilation, and automatic devices with recorders monitor the content in air of harmful and poisonous gases.

You cannot create such conditions at home, and many do not even suspect the danger of severe lung diseases, up to lung cancer.

At the same time, the mechanical properties of some similar materials - for example, polyester resins, are not much inferior to the insidious "epoxy". It is quite suitable, by the way, and varnish for parquet.

With fiberglass, you also need to be careful, because the smallest particles of its fibers are introduced into the skin of the hands and into the respiratory tract. Acceptable substitutes are cotton fabrics such as percale, tarpaulin, or reasonably strong synthetics.

XII. YOU SHOULD LOSE WEIGHT NOT ONLY FOR FASHION WOMEN!
Already, in principle, a home-made car is heavier than a purchased one. This inevitably manifests itself due to the fact that the load-bearing body is too complicated to calculate the strength. In the automotive industry, the development of the optimal variant of the "strength-lightness" dilemma is carried out experimentally. A do-it-yourselfer can't do it. He has to either separate the functions of the body and frame (which leads to almost doubling the mass of this complex), or deliberately overweight the body. For this reason, a home-made car will be 20-30% heavier than a similar industrial design. However, practice shows that if you do not specifically monitor the weight of each part, then a home-made product turns out to be one and a half times (and sometimes even more!) Heavier than a factory-made machine of a similar class. And in this - and increased fuel consumption, and worse dynamics, and lower carrying capacity, and ...

electrical machines called electromechanical converters, in which electrical energy is converted into mechanical or mechanical - into electrical energy. Depending on the type of current given or consumed, electrical machines are divided into AC and DC machines, which can be used as motors, generators, or combinations thereof.

According to the principles of creating torque, electrical machines are divided into synchronous, asynchronous and direct current.

In synchronous machines, the rotational speed of the shaft is synchronized with the rotational speed of the electromagnetic field that creates the torque. In a synchronous machine, the excitation field is created by a winding located on the rotor and powered by direct current. The stator winding is connected to the AC mains. The inverted circuit, when the excitation winding is located on the stator, is rare. In a synchronous machine, the winding in which the EMF is induced and the load current flows is called the armature winding, and the part of the machine with this winding is called the armature. The part of the machine on which the excitation winding is located is called the inductor. Synchronous machines are used as generators and motors.

The condition for the operation of an asynchronous machine is the inequality of the frequencies of rotation of the electromagnetic field of the stator and rotor, which actually creates forces that drive electrical machines. In an asynchronous machine, the field is created in the stator winding and interacts with the current induced in the rotor winding. Among asynchronous machines, single-phase low-power motors are collectors. Asynchronous machines are mainly used as motors.

The main feature of the DC machine is the presence of a collector and a sliding contact between the armature winding and the external electrical circuit. A DC machine in its design is similar to an inverted synchronous machine, in which the armature winding is located on the rotor, and the excitation winding is on the stator. Due to their good regulating properties, DC motors are widely used in industry. They can work as both generators and engines.

Classification of electrical machines

by power

High power machines:

collector machines with a capacity of more than 200 kW;

synchronous generators with a power of more than 100 kW;

synchronous motors with a power of more than 200 kW;

asynchronous motors with a power of more than 100 kW at a voltage of more than 1000 V.

Medium power machines:

collector machines with a capacity of 1 ... 200 kW;

synchronous generators with power up to 100 kW, including high-speed generators with power up to 200 kW;

asynchronous motors with a power of 1 ... 200 kW;

asynchronous machines with a power of 1 ... 400 kW at voltages up to 1000 V, including single-series motors from 0.25 kW.

The group of low power machines includes electrical machines that are not included in the first two groups:

DC motors are collector and universal;

asynchronous motors, synchronous motors, etc.

Basic concepts

Efficiency factor (COP) - the ratio of useful (output) power and spent (input):

for generators - the ratio of active electrical power supplied to the network to the consumed mechanical power;

for electric motors - the ratio of useful mechanical power on the shaft, kW, to the active input electrical power, kW.

Power factor (cos j) for AC machines:

for generators - the ratio of the output active electric power, kW, to the total output electric power, kV×A;

for electric motors - the ratio of the active consumed electric power, kW, to the total consumed electric power, kV × A;

Starting current (initial start) - the steady current consumed by the motor with a stationary rotor and power supply from the mains with a rated voltage and frequency (Iп - starting current).

The multiplicity of the initial starting current is the ratio of the initial starting current to the rated current.

Rated torque - the torque on the motor shaft corresponding to the rated power and rated speed.

Initial starting torque - the torque developed by the motor with a stationary rotor and an initial starting current.

Minimum torque - the smallest value of the torque developed by the motor at rated voltage and mains frequency in the range of speed changes from zero to the value corresponding to the maximum torque.

Maximum torque - the highest value of the torque developed by the motor at rated voltage and mains frequency.

Relative on-time (PV) - the ratio of the duration of the engine under load, including start-up, to the duration of the working cycle, expressed as a percentage.

Design

Structural design - a way of arranging the components of the machine relative to the fastening elements of the bearings and the end of the shaft.

General purpose engine - an engine that meets the technical requirements common to most applications, and is made without taking into account the special requirements of the consumer.

The main version of the engines is the version that meets the general technical requirements for operating properties, operating conditions and application. The basic version is the basis for the development of modifications and specialized versions.

Modification - an engine version based on the basic version, which has the same height of the rotation axis, but differs in operating properties (mechanical characteristics, speed control range, etc.).

Specialized version - a version that meets the increased requirements of the consumer in relation to the conditions of use. Specialized designs differ in terms of environmental conditions and in terms of the accuracy of the installation and connecting dimensions.

Highly specialized version - a version designed to work in a highly specialized area.

Hello, dear readers of the blog "Auto-Junior". The hero of this material is another and, I must say, a very unusual branch in the mighty related tree of cars and.

This is an interview from 2004 given by Vladislav Kravchuk to kitcar.ru site administrator Alexei Ionov. From this interview, which is originally called "Proton Electric Car", you will learn how a self-made electric car was created with your own hands - the Proton car. We thank Alexey for the kindly provided material and photo.

So, we give the floor to Alexei and Vladislav:

An interesting thing is an electric car. And at the same time - very economical. The author went along the path of creating an electric car. So, we are talking with Vladislav, the creator of the already well-known Proton electric car.

Your website says that this homemade bodywork was bought ready made. Is it known at all who made it, what is its history?

No, I haven't been able to find a pedigree. Last year (2003) we talked with Algebraistov (brothers Yu. and S. Algebraistov are well-known DIYers in the USSR who created the car - ed.), he and his friends tried to remember who made this car, but they never succeeded .

I got this car through the "tenth" hands. And at that moment I was just going to make an electric car in some small, light body, for example, based on the Oka. And then, just after the first "Autoexotics", in which we participated with our converted Cossack (with a BMW chassis), our friend Yuriy came to us, who is now gluing a plastic jeep for himself, and offered to take this body from him. I came to look at this homemade product, assessed its weight qualities and realized that this is what I was looking for. The most suitable platform for an electric vehicle. This fiberglass body is estimated to be 200 kilograms lighter than the base Zhigulevsky.

By the way, the question is about the "base". What is this body? Fiberglass on the frame?

This is a "Zhigulevskoye" bottom with wheel arches, glued with fiberglass on both sides so that it does not rot (it has been holding on for 20 years ...), then a frame made of square and, in some places, round pipes is welded onto all this. Outside, it's all pasted over with fiberglass panels.

Is the bottom reinforced in any way?

No, absolutely standard, the frame of pipes is placed on it only from above.

Then I began to make an electric car. It’s a young thing, there is no patience, so I didn’t invent anything and tried to use standard components as much as possible. The traction motor is from a Bulgarian loader, with a nameplate power of 3.6 kW. At the same time, in acceleration with good dynamics, it painlessly develops up to 15 kW for itself. From this advice to everyone who will do something like this: when choosing a motor, you need to take into account its overload capabilities.

Yes, when I tried to figure it out, I found domestic motors - DPT-6. They are 6 kilowatts and are also designed for a loader ...

In my case, 3.6 kW in terms of revolutions and ratios of the 4th gear of the gearbox and rear axle should be achieved at 1400 rpm of the engine, which corresponds to a speed of 44 km/h. And so it turns out: when I drive at about this speed, I see 50 amperes on the ammeter at an operating voltage of 80 volts. Thus, I have 4 kW and efficiency = 90%.

I did some calculations in my spare time. If we take a VAZ-2108 with a weight of 920 kg and a power of 57.2 kW, then we get the ratio of mass to power = 16.1. With a weight of your car of 850 kg and a power of 3.6 kW, we get a similar figure = 236.1.

Yes. When I started building an electric car, I made a similar calculation and was horrified. And so I left the gearbox - on the first and second I will start in any way. Plus, it saves me that the real starting power of the engine is higher than the passport one.

By the way, there is no clutch. How do you turn on transmissions?

And then there is no idling. When shifting gears, the gearbox synchronizer "pulls" the engine armature to the desired speed. The only inconvenience is the shift time is slightly longer than with the clutch.

I hoped that with the new impulse unit that I put on my electric car, it would be possible to immediately turn on the fourth one and start moving on it - but, alas, there is not enough power. Therefore, I now start off in the city on the second, and when driving I use the fourth.

How about the charging time?

Batteries are charged by a regular charger with a current equal to 10% of the nominal capacity, somewhere overnight. Now a new control unit is being developed for me under the order, which will charge itself, then switch to the boiling mode - “finishing”, and then turn off the charging and remain in the “standby” mode. I have acid batteries, ordinary ones - they cost reasonable money. Special traction batteries are a third heavier and are unthinkably expensive, so I abandoned them.

At the same time, for standard 200-ampere batteries, the discharge current is not very large - 50 amperes. Moreover, if we take that the real capacity of a non-new battery is 170 ampere / hours, we get at least 2.5 hours of confident running.

It's clear. So you have two batteries in the front and...

...and five in the back. Just 200 amps. The engine is designed for 80 volts nominally, I applied 84 volts to it. I also checked how it would behave at 96 volts - it turned out much more fun. In general, I am satisfied with the engine - it holds "overloads" well. Enough "oak", wiring from a thick wire, everything is "vitrified", etc. I can say for sure that you need to go to 120 volts - in order to switch not so large currents. The motor control unit currently in use was developed for a year and a half, until it began to work decently and not burn out.

Thyristor?

No-no. On 8 field-effect transistors, standing in parallel. With thyristors, there is a problem with direct current control. Variable is not a problem, but at direct current it is difficult to close the thyristor after a "breakdown". Another big plus of the field worker: a few volts fall on the thyristor, and only 0.15 V on the field worker. A plus in the future is the use of recuperation.

How about in winter?

Yes, the capacity of the batteries drops, but when driving they heat up a little and the problem should be solved by itself. There is another question - with the stove. Putting gasoline, I think is wrong. There is an idea to use the principle of a vortex tube for heating or cooling the interior, which only needs a fan to operate. Now I'm thinking about adapting this device for my car.

On this machine, I even managed to ride while sitting behind the wheel. By the way, it accelerates quite acceptable. True, when I pressed the "gas to the floor", Vladislav nevertheless asked me to look at the ammeter so that the starting current would not be large. Another problem for me was the lack of grip. Well, I'm not used to automatic transmissions. And then there’s the brake pedal made by combining the “classic” brake and clutch pedals ... After stopping, you need to put the car on the handbrake - the electric motor, unlike the internal combustion engine, does not hold compression.

In general, from the electric car there were quite pleasant sensations. Of course, in terms of dynamics and mileage at one "gas station" it is significantly inferior to gasoline ones. But, what a savings!

And this is also interesting...

DIY electric car

Eco, battery, hybrid engine, starting current, self-made electric car, electric motor for a car, do-it-yourself electric car

Let's get back to the dominant personality trait of the site's author - the desire to save money.

Estimate:
1. Body (on bridges, plastic, self-made, with documents) - $ 1000. - pay attention to the weight of the structure. Mine without engine and battery weighs 350kg. It is important. - A homemade plastic car is not as rare as it might seem at the beginning. Most recently - in early August, in the newspaper "From hand to hand" in the "other" section, it was for sale. Who seeks will always find! (In the end - stick together).

5) Personally, with 110% assistance from friends of electronics engineers, I am trying to build an electronic control unit. Get it - I'll tell you.

Total: Approximately $3,000 spent.

(200 A x 84 V) / (1000 n) x C \u003d 25 rubles n - charge efficiency \u003d 60% (0.6) C - cost of 1 kWh (90 kopecks)

So: 12.5 kop/km. The cost of the battery, reduced to 1 km of track. (2600 rubles 7 pcs) / 160,000 km = 11.4 kopecks / km. Only 24 kop/km.

The prototype of the VAZ 2101 with a flow rate of 8 l / 100 km, AI 92 (10 rubles / l) 80 rubles / 100 km \u003d 80 kopecks / km.

Add here regular oil changes, filters, carburetor adjustment, ignition valves, overhaul. engine repair, finally ... How much did it turn out? 1.2 rubles/km and 24 kopecks/km.

5 (five) times cheaper, gentlemen! 5 times!!!

Any questions?

I foresee one question: "Where to put the saved money?"

Another progmotic question: what will the traffic police say?

You say that this homemade body was bought ready-made. Is it known at all who made it, what is its history?

No, I haven't been able to find a pedigree. Last year (2003) we talked with Algebraistov (brothers Yu. and S. Algebraistov are well-known DIYers in the USSR who created the Yuna car), he and his friends tried to remember who made this car, but they never succeeded .

By the way, the question is about the "base". What is this body? Fiberglass on the frame?

Is the bottom reinforced in any way?

No, absolutely standard, the frame of pipes is placed on it only from above.

So you've got the base. What's next?

Yes, when I tried to figure it out, I found domestic motors - DPT-6. They are 6 kilowatts and are also designed for a loader ...

By the way, there is no clutch. How do you turn on transmissions?

How about the charging time?

It's clear. So you have two batteries in the front and...

Thyristor?

How about in winter?

"Electric car version 1.0" is a basic-level car that can be made in six months in a garage by virtually any handy man who knows how to repair a car and has basic knowledge in electrical engineering. The purpose of this article, of course, is not to give the reader clear instructions for use, but to give, as it is fashionable to say today, a “road map” for understanding that an electric car is easy! Igor Korkhov, the administrator of the largest thematic forum electrotransport.ru, who successfully built completed designs of his own electric vehicles, and currently drives a modernized Lada Ellada, told Wheels about this.

Body

What does an entry-level electric car consist of, which is easy to build on a garage slipway? A body from a donor car with steering, suspension, transmission and brakes, a DC electric motor aggregated with a standard manual gearbox, a battery pack with a controller, an accelerator pedal from which the controller receives a signal and a number of auxiliary components that can even be brought into the design immediately, and later - after the first test drives, which the soul of a garage engineer is so looking forward to ...

As a body donor, as a rule, they take a front-wheel drive car so as not to lose energy on friction in the universal joint crosses and the hypoid gear of the rear axle. They try to find a lighter car, ideally up to 600-700 kilograms, although this is not always possible - most cars are excessively heavy in terms of building an electric car. At one time, Tavria was very popular among garage electric cars - the body is light and excellent "rollability" - on a flat road you could literally push with your finger! But almost all of Tavria, alas, have already rotted ... Golfs of the first or second generation, Daihatsu Mira and similar small cars are popular. They try to increase the "rollability" with special tires - the so-called "green" ones: narrow and allowing a pressure of 2.7 or more atmospheres to eliminate losses due to rubber deformation.

Engine

I saw how, on a car with the engine removed, a powerful screwdriver was connected to the input shaft of the manual gearbox, the control of its power button was brought into the passenger compartment and, in fact, they got an electric car in half an hour! Yes, curious, yes, traveling no faster than five kilometers per hour, but, in essence, a good demonstration of the simplicity and efficiency of the design of "option 1.0"! All this, of course, from the field of "mechanics are joking", but the principle, in general, is preserved.
Igor Korkhov

The most common engines for entry-level homemade products were and still are DS-3.6 traction motors from Bulgarian Balkancar EB-687 electric warehouse forklifts. These are series excitation motors powered by direct current with a voltage of 80 volts and a power of 3.6 kilowatts. Such a motor looks like a cylindrical barrel, weighs 66 kilograms. This is far from the best motor in terms of weight and economy, but it is easily accessible and popular with budding electric vehicle designers. You can buy such an “engine” to the best of your luck - someone will get it for thanks, someone will find it for 5-10 thousand rubles. In principle, such a cost is justified - the motor is not high-speed, but it has excellent torque, it pulls on any hill even in third gear, it is easy to install, unpretentious.

Transmission

In "Option 1.0" you will not find motor-wheels and other progressive electromobile "nanotechnologies". It is done as simple as possible, and the easiest way is to splice the electric motor with the transmission already existing on the donor car - a manual gearbox with final drive and differential, through front-wheel drive CV joints with hubs and front wheels. - Actually, the basket and the clutch disc, its drive (hydraulic or cable), and the left pedal itself are removed - this is excess weight, and we no longer need them. - says Igor Yuryevich, - True, we will still switch gears - but rarely and without disconnecting the motor and gearbox shafts - simply sticking the gears with the gearbox handle. The desired gear without clutch is switched on quite calmly both before the start of the movement and on the go: you throw off the gas, you bring the gearshift handle, the synchronizers work - and we go further.

We use third gear for city driving, fourth gear for country roads, and second gear for gullies. The first one is never used at all, the moment on the wheels is such that they simply scroll with a light touch of the accelerator!

To install an electric motor under the hood, two main “handmade” parts are needed: an adapter plate and an adapter sleeve, with the help of which the electric motor is connected to the car’s “native” manual gearbox. The plate connects the electric motor and the gearbox, and the sleeve connects the motor shaft and the gearbox input shaft.

The plate is easily made with your own hands from thick steel or aluminum - it is enough to have medium-level locksmith skills, a grinder and a drill.

Battery

The battery for an electric car is only lithium-iron-phosphate, there are no other options! About starter lead batteries, which seem attractive to begin with, “to try”, forget immediately and forever - they are categorically unsuitable, just money down the drain. A few charges and discharges - and the batteries will go to the non-ferrous metal collection point! Traction lead batteries also do not last long, because with their mass, the capacity will always be insufficient, which means an excessively large current consumption per battery. With such currents, the traction lead does not hold. So exclusively "lifers", although it is not cheap.

At one time, many people went through lead, including me. Now there is no point in repeating such mistakes. My starter batteries began to die after a couple of months, I barely managed to sell them at half price until they lost capacity. Then at one time he used sealed batteries from the power supply of telecommunication systems (uninterruptible power supplies for cell towers) - enough for a season, internal resistance began to grow ... Therefore, as soon as widely available lithium-ferrum appeared, everyone switched to it. The best specific energy density, the ability to give and receive high currents, durability, frost resistance. But prices are still high, and the battery is the most expensive part of an electric car - this must be taken into account by the do-it-yourselfer ...
Igor Korkhov

A simplified calculation of the parameters and cost of the battery looks like this: suppose we need to dial a 100-volt battery - quite a lot of motors are designed for this voltage. The voltage of one "lifer-can" is 3.3 volts, which means we need to connect 30 cans in series. But the second important battery parameter is capacity. Since the "banks" are the same, the capacity of one = the capacity of the entire battery. A good-quality can costs about $1.50 per amp-hour, and an entry-level 30-amp-hour battery will give a car weighing up to a ton 25-30 kilometers of power reserve.

We believe:

30 Ah x $1.5 = $45 per can $45 x 30 cans = $1350 for the whole battery

In general, the battery is not budgetary, and this is only a capacity suitable for the first experiments - in a good way, it needs to be at least doubled ...

Most often, electric car batteries are charged with semi-homemade chargers made on the basis of cheap, decommissioned power supplies that saturate backup batteries at cellular base stations - where they work in conjunction with 48-volt lead batteries. You need two of these blocks - they are connected in series, internal adjustment allows you to raise the voltage of each to 64 volts and charge the batteries for most common electric motors used by EV DIYers.

By the way, a regular 12-volt battery, as a rule, remains in its place - it is convenient to power various regular consumers from it - a sound signal, windshield wipers, power windows, "music", light, etc. Later, as one of the first upgrades, it can be replaced with a three hundred watts DC/DC converter, making 12 volts out of 100.

Other nodes

Actually, in addition to the motor, transmission and battery in the simplest electric car, there are a number of components - both necessary and optional. Categorically necessary is, of course, the engine control controller. In the simplest version, it can be made independently on relatively inexpensive and widespread parts, and the throttle angle sensor from the injection VAZ will serve as the gas pedal sensor. You can buy a controller from domestic do-it-yourselfers, order a factory one from China, or order a used Curtis branded unit from eBay - the module will cost $ 250-300.

There are a lot of additional nodes that are not mandatory for a trial (or even in general!) Trip. For example, a stove from which a liquid radiator is thrown out and an electric heating element is installed instead. Or, say, a vacuum pump for a brake booster. Since there is no internal combustion engine on the machine, the intake manifold vacuum necessary for the operation of the vacuum brake booster also disappears. Therefore, many do-it-yourselfers install VUT electric auxiliary pumps borrowed from cars like the Volvo XC90, Ford Kuga, etc.

However, it all depends on the project - on a light electric car, not everyone even upgrades the brakes, since the role of the “vacuum unit” is partly performed by regenerative engine braking, and many cars from the factory did not have a vacuum booster in principle, braking quite well. Without it, for example, not only the notorious VAZ-"penny" was produced, but also Tavria, Oka in some years, and so on.

Prices and money

Donor car, electric motor, controller - all this varies flexibly and here you can "cut" to the best of cunning and desires. You can buy a donor car for 100-150 thousand in a decent condition on the body, you can buy for 50 thousand - but with the need for tin, welding, painting ... You can buy an electric motor from an elderly Bulgarian loader, or you can buy a used or new American engine designed specially for electric vehicles. You can purchase an industrial engine thrust control controller, or you can solder it yourself if you have the skills. The same goes for everything else, except for the battery. Here, nothing will be especially “tailored”: the prices for new lithium-ferrum banks are approximately the same everywhere, the question is capacity. A good 80-100-volt battery for about a hundred kilometers will cost $4,000-5,000 in today's money. You can, of course, start with a low-capacity battery with the prospect of building up (after all, even a short first trip inspires and gives you an understanding that you are not working in vain!), but you need to understand that a small capacity should be increased as soon as possible, since its lack leads to an increase in the recoil current from each individual can up to dangerous impact values that shorten their life ... While you are arguing with the purchase of the second half, the first will die ...

So is it profitable to build an electric car? Even an experienced do-it-yourselfer and, in fact, the guru of a garage EV building, Igor Korkhov believes that in the first place there is still a hobby, and “cheat the system” can only be very conditional - it will border on self-deception ... The fact is that the end result cannot be assessed purely at the cost of the kilometer traveled, as many people think - you have to take into account comfort, functionality, safety of the car, and just the feeling of what you own. Here, for example, a new gasoline Lada Granta - it costs from 360 thousand rubles, which is approximately equal to $ 5,500. The most budgetary electric car based on some early-generation VW Golf will cost the same in terms of components - plus time spent on thematic forums and your own labor invested. As a result, on one side of the scale - albeit a domestic, but smelling of novelty and trouble-free car under warranty, and on the other - an elderly and outwardly shabby "electric self-propelled gun" in the stage of endless finishing, without the possibility of refueling on the way, at first (or even forever) without air conditioning, brake booster and the like.

Well, or, say, the next bar is Hyundai Solaris. New it costs from 600,000 rubles, which is about $ 9,200. A similar amount will have to be spent if you build an electric car based on a more or less fresh foreign car body that looks decent from the outside and has an unkilled interior, having bought a good American electric motor for this body, a reliable Curtis proprietary controller and dialing a capacious battery. However, the output is, in general, almost the same as in the first case ... Solaris has maximum speed and dynamics in its trump cards, the ability to replenish fuel everywhere, and not just in a personal garage where there is an outlet, all the advantages of a new and reliable car with a lot of functional amenities, guarantees and more. Home-made, though more decent inside and out, remains home-made - a car with significant limitations in terms of range and refueling, an eternal constructor, a simulator for hands and mind ...

conclusions

From the point of view of the application of hands and mind for a person who loves cars and technology, building an electric car is certainly justified! This hobby, of course, is expensive, but everything is known in comparison - and, moreover, in comparison not with oligarchic extremes like collecting Faberge testicles, but with quite common and massive technical applied hobbies. Let's say, for a fishing lover, an average inflatable boat with an outboard engine of a well-known brand of forces in ten will result in at least two-thirds of the simplest electric car ...

A good quadcopter with a camera costs no less. Against this background, the construction of an electric car does not stand out at all - such a normal male fun ...

Equally attractive to building a “Version 1.0” electric car is that the result is achievable for many, and not just for the elite - you don’t have to be a “level 80 engineer” to articulate an electric motor with a gearbox, lay power and control wiring and place it in the trunk batteries. In the simplest design and with a lot of advice from a responsive electric car community on the Internet, the work will be pleasant and almost certainly successful.

However, until efficient batteries become cheaper and inexpensive sets of traction motors and controllers spread, as happened with whales for electric bicycles, a garage-built electric car in terms of operating costs is unlikely to be a serious competitor to budget gasoline cars, and even more so to gasified cars ... to save money, investing in the installation of propane gas equipment is easier and more profitable ...

The photo was kindly provided by the American do-it-yourselfer Bruce, who carefully documented all the stages of building his electric car at home based on the 1985 Suzuki Mighty Boy pickup hatchback.

Interested in the topic of building an electric car?

By having an electric car, you will save money on fuel in the first place, which is great for the environment. We hasten to please you that you can build an electric car with your own hands even using the most ordinary car.
We offer you a series of instructions that you need to follow in order to create an electric car with your own hands.

Step 1: Choose a car from which you will make an electric car with your own hands

It is best to choose a common brand, this will make it easier for you to access numerous spare parts (and you will definitely need them). The simplicity of the design of applicants when choosing, in this case, is welcome (the simpler the better). Another important detail is the weight of the future electric car, which you will create with your own hands. It must be remembered that our future car will gain a lot of weight thanks to the battery. The best option for building an electric car with your own hands are considered to be convertibles or cars up to 2 tons.
If you want your future electric car to pick up speed well, look for a well-streamlined, aerodynamically shaped car for minimal drag (alternatively, additional optics can be created later with your own hands separately). Excessive wind resistance will typically take 10 to 20 km or 8.0 to 16.1 km/h off your electric vehicle.
For electric vehicles in general, there is no need for a gearbox, as the ability to drive forward and reverse is handled by the controller.
The electric car that you are going to build with your own hands must also have enough space for electric batteries to provide sufficient voltage to power the engine. It is also worth remembering that when creating it, you need to take into account the possibility of having constant access to the batteries for easy do-it-yourself maintenance. Don't forget also that the uniform placement of batteries in the vehicle space is directly responsible for the stability of your electric vehicle.

Video: How to make an electric car with your own hands

Step 2: Choose an engine for your electric car that you can build as you like by installing it yourself

Find what you need, does not require a professional level of knowledge. The DC motor is the standard motor for building almost all electric vehicles. It will even be enough to find such a motor in a used condition and restore it. This task is quite simple (what you need to do with your own hands is to disassemble the case, clean and degrease the electric motor, and then restore all its connectors).

Step 3: Buying an Electric Vehicle Battery

Before you start assembling an electric vehicle, you will need a main battery and a backup battery. Look for a helium cell battery, which is a type of regulated lead acid battery that contains a thickened electrolyte. Such sealed (without revision) batteries do not require additional do-it-yourself pouring of distilled water into the battery cells of the future electric vehicle. This is a sealed accumulator with a pressure relief safety valve. When buying, you can explain to the seller for what purpose you need the battery.
A more expensive option is to purchase lithium-ion batteries. I must say that they are quite expensive, have a variety of voltages, but this option allows you to purchase almost one battery instead of completing a number of smaller ones. Indeed, in order for such a battery to pull a large car with passengers and drive a decent distance, it will take a total of 72 volts and from 40 to 60 ampere hours. If you want the car to develop up to 64 km / h, then it is better to take 144 volts and about 80 ampere hours. Although, many car builders who want to create an electric car with their own hands purchase lithium-ion batteries.

Step 4: Remove the old engine with your own hands

You will need a beam crane and a set of keys to help you remove the engine and old parts from the car. If the old and rusted bolts are poorly unscrewed, use a liquid key (it is available in all car dealerships).
We take out the engine and everything else that we do not need to work in conjunction with the electric motor: tank, exhaust system, radiator, etc.
Whether or not there was a power steering in your future electric car that you create do it yourself not so important, since you can always install electric power steering as an additional option.

Step 5: Install the motor and battery in place of the old unit

This is where the gearbox mounts can be reused. We connect the electric motor to the gearbox and support it with a jack, measure the difference between the old mounting bolts of the engine and the electric motor and install it.
You can make and mount a brand new engine mount, but it's much easier to use the original engine mount as it has dampers built into it to avoid dynamic engine stress. This reduces vibration and rattling when the engine accelerates or decelerates.
You will also need an adapter plate to connect our electric motor transmission and clutch (specially designed to mate the engine flywheel and driveshaft to the transmission).
It's best to bring the motor and gearbox to a workshop and use a simple piece of cardboard to measure the distance between the bolt holes on one side and the electric motor bolt holes on the other.

Position the motor inside the front of the vehicle and connect the controller. The controller, as a rule, can be 72 volts (like the controller on any golf car, for example). However, if you want a 144 volt controller, you will need to find sites that sell them specifically for electric vehicles.
Install the battery (using the battery fasteners). Connect the motor and battery to the controller.

Step 6: Installing the solar panels of an electric car with your own hands

The installation of solar panels will be used as passive energy for battery backup. They choose very different places. Naturally, it is worth placing them in places on an electric car with good access to sunlight (it occurs when craftsmen creating an electric car with their own hands place them even on the turn signal mirrors). Why not?

Step 7: Connect the ignition to the starter

The starter activates the motor when the key is turned. This will operate in the same manner as a powered ignition switch. You will need to solder the ignition so that it turns on the starter of the electric car. To do this, connect the wires to the car's electrical system and the fuse box. You will also need a pedometer that connects to the throttle and gas pedal cable. This wire is connected to the controller and gives it a signal when it is time to start moving the electric car. This is a fairly important detail that you may need when creating an electric car with your own hands. .

Step 8: Just buy a kit to convert a simple car into an electric car

Don't buy all the parts separately. You can purchase a kit for converting an ordinary car into an electric car with your own hands. It will have all the necessary components and they will be 100% designed to work together. However, such kits, as a rule, are not universal for all cars. You will still need to make a lot of items in case the kit doesn't fit your car.