Almost any car owner, having closed the car and having moved a certain distance, will definitely turn around to once again admire his car and assess its condition.
The car is constantly exposed to the aggressive action of the environment. The main enemy is moisture - the cause of rust.
To protect against it, machine parts must be treated with an anti-corrosion coating. The car care market offers many options. One of the most popular is the treatment of a car with cannon fat.
Requirements for anti-corrosion coating
The correct anticorrosive should have the following properties:
- Form an elastic film on the metal surface.
- Possess a high degree of adhesion - adhesion of various surfaces in solid or liquid form.
- Impregnate not only smooth surfaces, but also penetrate into cracks and depressions.
- Displace accumulated moisture.
- Wet the surface well.
- Should not dry out.
- Do not form cracks where water can penetrate.
- Do not require special surface preparation.
- To be resistant to the mechanical impact of small particles rising from the road surface - gravel, sand, pebbles.
- Be resistant to temperature changes and maintain its characteristics at any time of the year.
The use of cannon fat satisfies these requirements and creates a reliable isolation from the environment. The composition of cannon fat is petroleum oil, which has been thickened with petrolatum and ceresin. To ensure operational properties, an anti-corrosion additive is added.
The coating got its name due to the fact that at first it was used to preserve artillery weapons, including cannons.
The benefits of cannon fat
The main features of the substance:
- high degree of elasticity;
- the ability to stay on the surface without rolling off it during application and further operation;
- lack of interaction with water, which allows you to successfully use it on the bottom of the car;
- temperature range of use – from minus 50° to plus 50°C;
- protection against corrosion under the action of sea water and salt fog;
- scope - black and non-ferrous metal surfaces.
Visually, it is a homogeneous ointment-like mass in color from yellow to light brown. Sold in metal cans or buckets of various capacities. Packaging starts from 1 kg.
The price of this type of anti-corrosion coating is very affordable. For comparison, the table shows the cost depending on the volume and manufacturer.
Advice! You can save on purchases by purchasing goods in stores that provide their services via the Internet.
Preparation
Before applying the coating, you should prepare everything you need. For anti-corrosion treatment you will need:
- cannon fat in a jar or bucket;
- means for breeding;
- electric stove or building hair dryer;
- paint brush;
- syringe.
We should especially talk about the means for breeding. There are several options for diluting cannon fat to a liquid state.
For this, the following can be used:
- petrol;
- solvent;
- waste oil;
- RUST STOP type anti-corrosion agent.
Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages. The solvent will cost a little more. The properties of mining depend on which oil was originally used.
RUST STOP anti-corrosion agent is one of the substances that successfully fight metal corrosion. The manufacturer is the Canadian company A.M.T. Inc."
The advantage of RUST STOP is that it never freezes. Being in a semi-liquid state, this tool fills all the cracks and scratches on the metal surface without damaging the rubber parts. A layer of corrosion inhibitors reliably protects the surface from the appearance of.
This anti-corrosion agent does not require particularly careful preparation of the treated surface - it can also be applied over a slight layer of rust. As a result, the technology of anti-corrosion treatment is greatly simplified, and the time for the entire process is reduced. An additional bonus is that the manufacturer uses various flavors, such as cherry or strawberry.
Information! Adding a product to cannon fat gives it anti-corrosion properties and promotes better spreading. Inhibitors reduce the rate of corrosion.
Mode of application
First you need to prepare the car. It is necessary to remove all plastic parts that interfere with work. Rinse surfaces to be protected. Clean up traces of corrosion. Degrease the surface by wiping it with white spirit.
Then you should prepare cannon fat. This work consists in heating and bringing it to the consistency of thick sour cream. You can warm it up on an electric stove, stirring constantly. It is also possible to use a building hair dryer.
Two minutes after the end of heating, add a solvent to the melted lard or in a ratio of 4: 1. The solution is ready for use.
On large surfaces, the solution is applied with a paint brush. Processing the bottom of the car with cannon fat suggests that the car must be raised on jacks. It will be even more convenient to work while in the inspection hole.
At the bottom, it is reasonable to substitute a container where excess will drain or drip. Apply cannon fat to the surface with broad strokes. Each layer should be 0.3-0.4 mm thick. When in contact with a cold car, fat quickly seizes. After hardening, you can apply another one on top.
It would be a mistake to process only the outer surfaces. Be sure to carefully inspect the interior and coat the metal parts inside it. Moisture gets inside the machine through the cracks, contributing to the formation of rust there.
In addition to large surfaces, working with which is not very difficult, you will have to deal with more inaccessible places:
- pour liquid through the technological holes into the existing cavities;
- process thresholds and doorways;
This is where you will need a syringe, with which you can pump anticorrosive under pressure into the necessary cavities.
By spending more time on careful processing, the owner of the car will be able to provide himself with peace of mind for several years.
You must follow the safety rules:
- work with gloves;
- to carry out processing in the open air, if not possible - in a well-ventilated garage;
- do not leave the electric stove turned on unattended.
The time during which a stable film is formed is approximately 30 minutes.
Comparison with other species - reviews
There are a lot of forums where the properties of various anti-corrosion coatings are discussed. This topic excites almost all motorists. Questions are asked and success stories are shared.
The topic of protecting a car from corrosion has become overgrown with speculation and myths. Almost all the myths on this topic today are not true. In recent years, technologies and solutions for anti-corrosion protection of the body have stepped far forward and provide opportunities that were previously inaccessible. So, it's time to destroy a dozen myths about anticorrosion and corrosion.
Myth 1: A new car does not need anticorrosive.
Actually it is not. Any manufacturer guarantees protection against penetrating corrosion for 12 years. As long as there are no holes in the pockets of rust on the body elements, claims from the client are not accepted. In order not to get into a situation where the body began to rust, but it is simply impossible to do anything under warranty, it is better to take care of preventive anti-corrosion protection in advance.
Myth 2: Galvanized body does not rust.
Chromium, which is part of stainless steel or applied to the surface of galvanized steel, really effectively protects its surface from corrosion. But the fact is that car bodies are not made of stainless steel, the parts of which are simply difficult to weld together due to the presence of zinc. Therefore, factories perform galvanic galvanization, as a result of which a zinc layer up to 0.015 mm thick is formed on the steel surface. Such a layer of zinc is quite economical in terms of production costs and provides good protection. However, it is easily damaged mechanically. And not only as a result of an accident, but also with an abrasive effect on the surface of the body. Also, the zinc layer is broken during operation, during which the body experiences various bending and deforming loads. Because of them, corrosion first appears at the welding points and at the joints - numerous power and moving elements of any body. Therefore, even a good galvanized body will never get in the way of additional anti-corrosion protection.
Myth 3: Only open areas of the body rust, which cannot be protected with anticorrosive.
It's not like that at all. Note that many vehicles rust along the lower edges of exterior surfaces and components. The edges of the hoods, doors, trunk lids, the edges of the roof panels, the lower edges of the fixed rear fenders - these are the first to attack corrosion. Why? It's all about condensed moisture, which inevitably forms in the off-season. During night frosts, the body metal cools to low temperatures, and dew falls on it. And not only from the outside, but also from the inside - after all, the air and the moisture contained in it penetrates into all leaky cavities. And if the dew dries on the outer panels, then it does not on the inner ones. Moisture droplets flow to the lower edges and collect there, gradually penetrating to the steel through a thin layer of soil. As a result, rust breaks out from under the paint - hydrated iron oxide. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to protect the hidden cavities of the body and the joints of metal sheets with anticorrosive!
Myth 4: Anti-corrosion protection of the bottom will be enough.
In fact, the protection of the bottom against corrosion is only a placebo effect. Imagine this situation: the master shows the mastic applied to the bottom, and the owner of the car sighs with relief. "The car is protected!" he thinks. And, albeit not much, but wrong. As follows from the previous myth, it is important to protect body cavities. Exposed surfaces, even the bottom, do not rust as quickly. And on the bottom, foci of corrosion are formed from hidden niches in the spars-amplifiers and thresholds.
Myth 5: Anti-corrosion treatment should be carried out on a new car.
Indeed, for many years the most reasonable solution was to treat the body of a new car, not affected by corrosion. But today, any car can be protected from corrosion, even a rusty one, even one made half a century ago. And it will be an effective defense, not an imaginary superficial one.
Myth 6: It is useless to treat a corroded car.
No, it's not useless. And there are two solutions. It is possible to clean the centers of corrosion to the metal and protect its bare surface with a layer of anticorrosive. Or you can simply apply a modern, effective anti-corrosion compound to all rusty surfaces. At the same time, the composition will neutralize corrosion - stop its development and, as a result, the destruction of the metal. The action of anticorrosive in this case can be compared with metal stripping and subsequent protective treatment. Only in this case, much less labor and time is needed.
Myth 7: Hidden cavities and internal surfaces of the body are extremely difficult to treat with anticorrosive.
No. In fact, everything is easy and simple. Today there is an effective anti-corrosion agent that is applied by aerosol and protects all metal surfaces on which it settles. In this way, it is possible to process both open surfaces and hidden ones, as well as hard-to-reach parts (for example, fuel and brake pipes) - you just need to penetrate them with a special probe with a spray, from which an anti-corrosion compound comes under pressure.
Myth 8: Corrosion protection of one car is done in a day.
In fact, a few years ago, treating a car with anticorrosive, especially one already affected by corrosion, required a lot of labor: the surfaces to be treated had to be cleaned of dirt and cleaned of corrosion. Often, partial disassembly of the body was required - in the event that access to attachments or hidden cavities was necessary. Modern solutions in the field of anti-corrosion protection make it possible to treat the outer surfaces of the body (bottom), hidden cavities of doors, hoods, trunk lids, etc. in just a few hours.
Myth 9: Anticorrosive should be done before the autumn-winter season.
It is possible and necessary to process and protect the body from corrosion at any time of the year. Modern anti-corrosion compounds allow them to be applied both to dry and wet (for example, after washing) body surfaces (bottom). Modern anticorrosive agent is not afraid of the influence of moisture and reagents, which will inevitably fall on the treated surface immediately after leaving the public roads.
Myth 10: You cannot treat the engine compartment and suspension parts with anticorrosive.
It is not true. Modern technologies allow not to bypass the engine compartment, but to process it purposefully. The protective properties of anti-corrosion compounds allow you to safely process electrical cables, wiring, open and closed electrical connectors, control units and, in general, all electronics. Modern anticorrosive coating is applied with a barely noticeable layer and is a dielectric - that is, it is completely safe for any electrical equipment.
Protecting the suspension with anticorrosive is not an unnecessary measure. In fact, hardly any suspension arm will have time to rust through even in a quarter of a century. However, it will not be superfluous to have anti-corrosion protection of the cups on which the suspension springs rest. On many vehicles, localized rusting of the lower coils of the spring is the cause of premature breakage. Also, a modern anti-corrosion agent, which is applied by aerosol method, protects all rubber elements of the chassis: numerous anthers, silent blocks, elements of supports and fasteners. In addition, anticorrosive protects all threaded connections from rusting: all nuts, bolts and screws will be easier to unscrew during repairs.
But what no anti-corrosion compound can protect is the elements of the exhaust system. The high temperatures to which the muffler is heated destroy any anticorrosive and, in general, any coatings that fall on its surface.
The tool that destroys all the myths regarding anti-corrosion protection is the Canadian composition of Krown T40. It is really easily and quickly applied to open and hidden surfaces of the body, protects against corrosion and neutralizes its existing foci, protects the electrics in the engine compartment and suspension parts from the effects of aggressive environments and substances.
You can protect the car body from corrosion in one of the Krown centers.
Made anticorrosive bottoms and all arches. The composition for application (I smear my Hondas with it) is made according to the following recipe:
50% - Cannon fat, it is also "GOST 19537-83 PVC Lubricant", it is also "Mike Sanders Korrosionsschutzfett" (in Germany). The Germans also do not disdain to smear their Behi and Merci with cannon fat!
25% - Rust Stop B (Canada) - as a corrosion inhibitor, can be replaced with urotropine or Movil;
25% - bituminous mastic (if the composition goes to the bottom). I add mastic as a thickener, as well as a dye. Without bitumen, the anticorrosive agent turns out to be a rusty-red color, which contradicts the design concept of my swallow))) Instead of mastic, you can melt autoplasticine or initially take a more solid pushsalo "Bikar".
This composition never hardens, respectively, will not crack or fall off,
When heated in the summer heat, the composition melts and creeps into microcracks and damage,
Surface preparation is not required (matting and degreasing, as I did under Dinitrol mastics, is not required here),
All of the listed ingredients have a large dry residue (read minimum solvents), which means less harmful fumes.
In open areas, it is gradually washed off. But it still remains in pores, seams, closed places, and given the ease of application, after a couple of years, the treatment can be repeated.
It is extremely difficult to find a Canadian Rust stop in our province, someone replaces it with Movil, TEP-15 (nigrol), mining, etc., etc.
Technology:
My bottom and arches Karcher;
I remove the gas tank and the exhaust tract (according to my mood);
I dry with a heat gun. I blow out hard-to-reach places with compressed air and dry them with an industrial hair dryer;
I prepare the mixture: I heat the cannon grease to a liquid state, add the rest of the ingredients to taste)
I apply anticorrosive with an anti-gravel gun or ... sandblasting. It is sandblasting that can “spit out” a thick composition in the form of a chic fan! At the same time, its tank is emptied instantly, but the speed of work increases many times over, and you can also make a layer of any thickness! In principle, you can work with a regular brush - this is ideal, but boring.
As a final touch, I heat the bottom with a hairdryer so that the composition melts and soaks all damage, joints and welds.
A small life hack) If it is difficult to find cannon fat in your region, you can order it in one all-Russian well-known online store using the following articles:
6106 - OilRight in plastic
6105 - OilRight in a can, it is convenient to heat;
VSK00023430 - BICAR, hard, great for the bottom;
EL-0216.10 - Elrance, very soft like Litol.
At the same time, the manufacturer of Chinese spare parts (!), But it's okay, in fact, oddly enough, pushsalo arrives ...
The old UAZ is an eternal car, not least because it is very, very difficult to sell it. Still, a very much an amateur car. And even then to say - even by selling it, you can’t return the spent mental strength. Therefore, it is worth trying to make the UAZ live longer, and pass from generation, from father to son, like a family curse ...
From this point of view, it is worth considering the UAZ assembly process - fortunately, the engine has just been changed and the car is already, in principle, on the go. And the main principle here is this:
“Remember! The bolt you tightened, you also unscrew it!
In general, the correct assembly of the machine is much more dirty than its disassembly. Dismantling that - well, rust, well, the soil was packed everywhere, well, oil oozed here and there (at all joints) ... But the assembly is a thorough matter. All fasteners unscrewed during disassembly - in kerosene. Yes, just like that, right in the trough with kerosene - plop!
If you are more or less professional in assembly and disassembly, I highly recommend an ultrasonic bath. On the Chinese counterparts of eBay, you can buy them for 800 rubles each. You pour kerosene into such, put the bolts - and take them out clean, like new ones. But if this is an infrequent case, then you can tinker with a brush, it's okay. Put the bolts washed in kerosene on a rag, let the kerosene drain and soak, and start playing Cinderella:
We disassemble the fasteners into special cassettes (I have a whole stack of them), at the same time we sort them into good and spoiled ones. The latter is mercilessly sent to the trash - it is more expensive to use it. A broken thread in the right place can create so much work for the grinder and welding that it’s better not to ...
Of course, ideally, it is better to change all the fasteners for a gold-plated titanium new one, but every time it is too expensive to do this. Therefore, I only change the damaged one, and you do whatever you want.
Another good principle:
“Disassembled - grease with anticorrosive!”
A very convenient case - the muzzle has already been removed, it remains to throw off the wings, since this is a simple matter. (Hint - a screwdriver with a nozzle for bolts ( not advertising) greatly reduces the time for unscrewing many identical nuts. Vzhiiiiik - and you're done. It’s a pity you can’t get them everywhere ...)
Why is this needed? And then, most likely, when you remove the wings, you will see something like this:
UAZ has no innate anti-corrosion protection, so taking care of its safety is our task. In general, he even suits the lack of wings, don't you think? – Some classic brutality appears:
The best anticorrosive of all times and peoples, I personally consider a mixture of cannon fat with nigrol ( not advertising):
Take a jar of pushsalo (150 rubles) and a liter of nigrol (50 rubles), heat pushsalo on the stove to a liquid state, pour nigrol into it, stir it. The more nigrol, the thinner the anticorrosive. For cavities you need liquid, for external elements - thicker, so adjust yourself.
This is truly a hellish black mixture - it impregnates everything, including loose rust, flows into all cracks, never dries out and is not completely removed by anything.
And, yes, she gets dirty. No, it's not, she DIRTY! Be prepared for the fact that everything will be in greasy black spots - body, interior, tools, clothes, garage and you yourself - up to your ears. After several trips on dusty roads, it will at least stop flowing from the frame - a protective layer is formed - but until then, everything will be in the anticorrosive.
In those hard-to-reach places where pushsalo cannot be filled in any way, I spray with aerosol Movil ( not advertising):
So, we cleaned the rust, took a brush in our hands - and we apply our anticorrosive wherever we can:
Don't forget the wings too.
Actually, at the same time, it is worth replacing the sealant, which is laid in the joints, but I didn’t have it, and I installed the old one. Do not follow my example, children!
Okay, probably not the last time I shoot ...
I didn’t get to the cavities this time, I left it on vacation, but, in short, the technology is as follows:
Anticorrosive liquid diluted with nigrol is poured into specially drilled holes at the end of the box (you can use a transmission syringe, for example). The holes are then plugged with plastic plugs (there are such special plugs). Then the machine is placed at an angle so that the filled one flows to the other end of the box. We temporarily plug the drainage holes with plasticine so that they do not leak out ahead of time. It's good to do this in the sun, but you can also heat the box with a heat gun, especially when it comes to frame cavities.
After that, you can be calm about the future of our UAZ - it will not only be inherited by children, but also by grandchildren ..
I have been practicing this graphite-oil therapy for many years, and I have been grateful to myself for it many times - especially when disassembling the suspension after several years of operation. Everything literally unscrews like clockwork.
Did everyone miss? Can be collected. At the next disassembly, repeat the procedure if necessary.
And now, wash off. Personally, I use the Cleaner ( also, alas, not advertising) - he removes the hellish mixture of nigrol with pushsal perfectly, and does not irritate the skin, though it stinks disgustingly ...
This post, unfortunately, is not paid for by manufacturers of automotive chemicals and power tools. Hey, manufacturers, why are you lost? I take it in kind! 🙂
