Surely, every motorist in his life once or twice faced the fact that his "four-wheeled friend" does not want or simply cannot start in the cold. Considering that the weather in winter is completely unpredictable from year to year, it is quite difficult to guess if your car will let you down in the morning. How to protect yourself from such unforeseen circumstances. The answer is very simple, as doctors would say - prevention. It would be best to contact service center your his official dealer boravto-vrn.ru - specialists will conduct all necessary diagnostics and fix the car.
Why won't my car start in cold weather?
In order to understand what to fight with - you need to know what exactly we are dealing with. It is quite difficult to determine the source of the problem right away, but the common denominator of this problem is always the same - liquids. The lower the temperature, the worse they "work", respectively.
At low temperature indicators gasoline starts to evaporate very badly. This is the reason for such a "weak" chance to start the combustion process. Not the most quality fuels at the same time, they completely harden. Automotive oils have a similar scenario. At low temperatures, the oil takes on a rather thick form and, as a result, the moving parts of the car engine begin to work very "reluctantly". By the way, even the battery fluids necessary for energy production also harden and this leads to the fact that the chemical processes in it proceed very slowly.
In order to protect your car and engine from low temperatures, logically, you need to place your car in an appropriate room where the temperature would be higher than that outside. I'm talking, of course, about the garage. The ideal option in winter would be to place your car in an underground garage, but if you do not have such an opportunity, you need to take care of your car as efficiently as possible. By following the tips below, you can prevent major parts of your engine from freezing.
Try to keep the battery warm
It is the battery that is the main element in the circuit of your car. Without its energy, it is impossible to start the engine. If you know that quite severe frosts are expected at night, then it would be quite appropriate to extract it and then transport it to your apartment. With this, you can also check the charge of your battery. Believe me, somewhere in the corridor of your apartment, he will be much better off than in his "native" place on a frosty night. If you do not have such a desire, then try to insulate the hood of your car if possible.
Use only high quality fuels
IN winter period it will be advisable to use only the highest quality fuels. It is better to refuel at large branded gas stations that you trust. It is better to refuse questionable quality of fuel. Whole line gas stations can offer you "winter" fuel enriched with additives that can withstand quite low temperatures. Also, keep in mind that you yourself can buy additives and mix them with your fuel.
Take care of your winter gear
The older your car gets, the more maintenance it needs. Do not be shy about carrying lock-defrosting tools with you. It will not be superfluous to spray the door locks with WD-40 spray before leaving the garage or from the parking lot - water cannot get there in any condition after treatment with such a spray. Correct selection elements will save you a lot of nerves and speed up the time when you can finally move off.
In our country, it is enough to simply purchase a special "electric blanket" that will keep your battery warm, even if you decide to leave " iron horse"on the street. This option will be very convenient for motorists who do not have their own garage and use parking lots for this purpose.
Manual heating
This method would be appropriate if you "really" need to have a car at the appointed time fully prepared. IN very coldy you can go out and warm up the engine yourself. It is clear that in this case you will need to have a car, literally within walking distance. Alternatively, you can pre-pay a car park attendant to come out and warm up your car regularly. This method is not commonly used for obvious reasons.
Disabling the alarm
Many motorists may attribute this method to dubious, and it is understandable. But the fact is that the included alarm system in winter is able to "finish off" an already weakened battery additionally. Therefore, if you are confident in the safety of your garage or parking lot, then it is better to leave the car "unguarded" - in the morning this will allow you to start your car pretty quickly.
Following all these tips, you can always be sure that your car will not let you down at the right moment. But what if you approached your car in the morning and it does not want to start in any way. In this case, you always need to know what to do to make the car start in cold weather.
First of all, sitting behind the wheel of a car, try to start the engine. If the expected does not happen, then try to turn on the headlights for a short time (no more than 15 seconds), then try to turn on the music, in general, try to somehow “wake up” your battery by sending it requests of this kind. If this does not lead to anything, then you will have to use improvised methods. Which will be discussed below.
The traditional way
Probably the most famous and popular way for every motorist is "lighting". To do this, you will need to find any other already running car and connect its battery to yours using special cables, commonly referred to as "crocodiles". If you do not live at the North Pole, then most likely you will quickly be able to find a person who can provide you with such all possible assistance. As a rule, drivers have an unspoken solidarity with each other, thanks to which you are unlikely to be refused in this matter. If you do not have any wires, then additionally ask for them from the driver who responded to your help. Don't forget to thank him afterwards.
Quite often it happens when in the morning you can not meet anyone on the street at all. In this case, if you know that you have a "problem" battery, it would be a good idea to take care of a portable charger. It will serve as a battery for another car. Of itself, it is not the most impressive size device with the already familiar to you "crocodiles".
If this method did not allow you to start your car, then the battery is not the problem. If time permits, the next check point will be candles.
Checking candles
In order to check the candles, it is necessary to determine the composition fuel mixture. To do this, you will only need to unscrew one of the candles from the engine and inspect it. If you observe a black tint on the walls of the spark plug itself, this will mean that the fuel mixture is quite "rich" and you have problems with the ignition system. All you need to do is change the spark plugs and the engine will start to stabilize.
Well, basically, that's all. Following the advice from our article, you can always be sure that your car will not let you down. Don't forget to keep track internal parts your vehicle. Good luck on your journey!
In the cold season, all problems begin to affect the car. All drivers know the famous Russian proverb - "where it is thin, it breaks there." It's about winter operation car. It is enough just to forget about timely maintenance or skip the process of preparing the car for winter, as the operation of transport becomes simply impossible. If your car does not start in winter, there can be quite a few problems.
Minus temperatures are not the best time to travel by car, but after all, we cannot store vehicles in the garage for the whole winter in order to preserve them. performance characteristics. And such a long downtime will also not lead to anything good. So you need to learn how to properly operate the car in the cold season.
Preparing the car for winter - the basic principles of a winter trip
If we talk directly about the function of the engine, then the most important process when preparing for winter is to ensure normal oil and fuel filters to work power unit. You should also check the operation of the fuel supply system, if necessary, clean the nozzles of the injector or diesel engine. This will help ensure proper fuel atomization and get a normal start of the power unit.
The oil in the engine and gearbox must be either universal (for the middle climatic zone of Russia) or specially winter. The latter option does not increase the viscosity index even at temperatures below 40 degrees. Also, when preparing your car for winter, do not forget about the following points:
- replacement of filters in the car, including the cabin filter and the air element;
- security normal operation wiper blades with soft rubber;
- installation if necessary preheater(especially important for diesel);
- normal operation of the windshield washer system;
- replacement of rubber with the appropriate one for the season and temperature characteristics.
In preparing the car for winter, you need to take into account the climatic conditions of operation. If you live in the southern part of the country, then it will be much easier to use the car, because the temperature even at night rarely drops below -15 degrees. If you have to travel through the harsh conditions of the North, you should carry out all the preparatory work in advance.
Think about the safety of driving in any conditions. After all, this is the most important criterion car use. Be sure to make all the changes that will help you control the car in any snowfall, keep it on the road, and also start it smoothly in severe frosts.
Causes of difficult engine start in cold weather
It can be quite difficult to start the power unit when the temperature drops below -15 degrees Celsius. In this case, the oil begins to change its physical characteristics, becomes more viscous and complicates the movement of the pistons at the stage of starting the engine. Injectors and nozzles in engines also freeze, normal fuel spraying becomes more difficult.
In such conditions, it is necessary to start the car as carefully as possible, because several unsuccessful attempts can simply fill in the candles and prevent you from starting the power unit normally. The most important points that prevent the normal start-up of the power unit in cold weather are as follows:
- freezing of fuel in lines and directly injectors in a diesel engine;
- injector clogged with solid particles - often happens with low-quality fuel;
- too hardened oil in the engine, which does not allow the power unit to scroll;
- a dead battery that cannot crank the engine;
- too long idle time of the car in low temperatures.
Avoiding all these situations is difficult, but there are special tools that will help you do this. For diesel engines, the preheater will be the solution to all problems. It is desirable that the device works not only for the engine, but also for the interior. You should also always monitor the quality of the fuel poured into a car with an injection engine.
The oil must be chosen according to the season so that it does not freeze and does not become excessively viscous. In the presence of such problems, you can simply heat the crankcase with a heater by substituting it under the car. The battery before winter must be well charged, and if necessary, buy a new one to replace it.
How to start a car in cold weather?
In order not to encounter problems that almost all motorists have during the cold season, just follow the rules for starting the engine in winter. Let's start with the fact that it is not recommended to store the car on the street in severe frosts. Even if you do not have your own garage, find an indoor parking lot that will provide adequate storage for your car. This will save you from all sorts of problems with starting the engine. It is also worth observing the following sequence when starting the engine in the cold season:
- turn on the ignition and let on-board computer figure out what's what;
- depress the clutch to disconnect the box from the power unit;
- perform the first crank of the engine - no more than three to four seconds;
- if the car does not start, wait about a minute and try to start again;
- if there is no launch for the second time, it is necessary to eliminate possible problems;
- if the problem is with the battery, you can try to “light it up” from another car.
The clutch must be depressed so as not to immediately land the battery, because the oil in the box is also very thick at sub-zero temperatures, it is quite difficult for the starter to turn both the engine and the box. If the launch failed the second time, try warming up the crankcase, unscrewing and drying the candles. Take a break between attempts to start the engine for at least one minute, otherwise you will simply flood the spark plugs with gasoline and will not be able to start the engine. Never do like the hero of the following video, who is trying to show his viewers the shortcomings of his car:
Summing up
Winter operation of the car is quite a difficult process. It is necessary to have all the information about preparing the car for the winter so as not to run into certain problems. Just follow the recommendations of the experts so as not to get certain problems when trying to start the engine in the winter. The better you prepare, the less problems there will be directly in the operation of transport.
Pay special attention to such details when winter preparation, like engine oil, battery and the health of the entire fuel system. Often these three nodes are the main problems when starting the engine in winter. Tell us what problems you faced in the winter - write about them in the comments.
Most of the inhabitants of our country live in regions with severe and even extreme winter conditions. This period of time turns into a serious test for everyone without exception, including motorists, for most of whom the failure to start the engine in cold weather becomes a real headache. And, what is most unpleasant, even the owners of new cars are not insured from this. What are the reasons for this failure, and how to deal with it? Our online publication offers detailed instructions.
As you know, cold weather (especially) has a serious negative effect on any car. The vehicle is complex technical device, which requires the coordinated work of many systems to run.
And sometimes it is very difficult to figure out which of these systems led to a failure to start the engine, but nevertheless it is possible.
So, which car components are primarily affected by frost? The most common causes of failure to start an engine are problems with the battery, fuel system, starter motor, alternator and engine oil. Let's look at each problem in more detail.
Battery problem
If your car won't start in the cold, by far the most likely cause is the battery (80% of the time the engine won't start in the cold). cold weather associated with the battery). Moreover, what is most interesting, even the owner of a new car can face a similar problem. The fact is that even in a new car it can be discharged, as a result of which the battery does not have enough energy to crank the starter to start the power unit.
Signs of a low battery: If you hear howling sounds when turning the key in the ignition to start the engine, but the starter does not turn, then most likely the battery is low. As a result, the starter for correct operation simply not enough energy.
Please note that if the battery is completely dead or there is a problem with the high voltage wires, you may not hear anything at all when starting the engine.
Also, if your car battery is completely dead, you are unlikely to see bright icons on dashboard when you turn the key in the ignition.
In some vehicles, when fully discharged battery the security system may stop working. Including with a “dead” battery, the central lock may not work.
Solution:and you're almost certain that a dead battery is the cause, you have several options:
- Start the engine using another car ("light" from another vehicle)
- Instead of a discharged one, install a charged battery
- Remove the battery and take it home for charging.
It is possible that your car's battery has failed. For example, over time, old batteries simply stop holding a charge. In general, everything is exactly the same as on smartphones, whose batteries wear out over time and cannot hold a charge for a long time. So in this case you will have to buy a new battery. But how do you know when it's time to buy a new one?
To do this, the discharged battery must be charged and then checked for its performance on the car. If the battery runs out quickly again in the cold, then it's easier to buy a new one. It will be better than to suffer with the restoration of the old battery.
But not always unexpected discharge car battery associated with its expiration date. For example, as we have already said, the battery can be discharged in the cold even in new car. How so? Very simple. For example, if the car is idle in severe frost for only a few days, the charge of a new battery can be significantly reduced. As a result, when starting the engine, the accumulated energy in the battery may simply not be enough to start the engine.
Also, a perfectly serviceable fresh battery can be discharged due to insufficient charging. This is especially true for those owners who use their cars infrequently in winter or drive mostly short distances. The thing is that when starting the engine in cold weather, too much battery power is consumed. By the way, due to undercharging the battery, its service life may be reduced. Therefore, we advise you to recharge the battery from time to time, either with a special charger, or drive the car for at least 40 minutes once a week if you use the car rarely or during frequent short trips.
Naturally, after starting the engine, the battery makes up for the lost energy from the generator, which, in turn, receives torque from the engine. But, unfortunately, the battery cannot quickly restore its charge. This takes from 5 to 40 minutes depending on the brand, model and weather conditions.
It is clear that during short trips (especially in winter) it may not have time to charge from the generator. As a result, the battery charge may drop over time. Now imagine that with a low battery, you have to start a car that has stood in extreme cold for several days. It is logical that the car simply will not start.
How can you increase the life of your car battery?
In addition to regularly charging the battery in winter, every car enthusiast can increase battery life by following a number of recommendations:
- Before turning off the engine at the end of the trip, turn off all electrical equipment of the car, including parking lights and dipped beam, windshield wipers, heater and radio
- Avoid corrosion on battery clamps and cables. This can interfere with the flow of electricity. When the engine is off, clean the terminals of corrosion with a wire brush or have a car service to clean the battery terminals
- Before turning on the ignition make sure all electrical equipment is turned off
- Avoid heating seats, mirrors and windows for longer than necessary. All this requires a lot of energy. As a result, the battery is under heavy load. Also try not to use the player and radio when the engine is off. Be aware that the car's audio equipment also consumes too much power, once again putting a load on the car's battery
- If possible, park your car in a warm garage if it is too cold outside
- Maintain Your Battery Properly especially if it has served more than three years
- When leaving the car, make sure to turn off the parking lights, dipped headlights, and do not forget the connected gadgets in the cigarette lighter or USB connector
Generator problems
Generator alternating current- This electric generator, which charges the car's battery while the engine is running. If your car has a relatively new battery, but it is constantly losing charge (even in the absence of frost), then the alternator may be the likely cause.
Signs of a malfunctioning generator: If the engine starts, but then stalls almost immediately; flicker car headlights; dashboard flickering or dim; the smell of burning in the cabin, which may come from overheated equipment.
Solution: If you do not understand the device and car repair, then at the first sign of a generator failure, contact a technical center.
Unfortunately, buying a new generator - expensive pleasure. But not always a broken unit involves the purchase of a new one. It happens that old generator manages to recover. And the repair will cost you less. It is noteworthy that the restored generator can work for exactly the same period as a new one.
Starter problems
One more common cause failure to start the engine is the failure of the starter, which uses electricity from the battery for its work. It's the starter that starts it. By the way, many modern cars equipped with stop-start systems. As a rule, in such cars there are starters increased power with extended life to cope with the constant on/off cycle of the engine during machine stops. Nevertheless, sooner or later even the most reliable starters fail. Moreover, surprisingly, the service life of starters in cars with a stop-start system is on average somewhat lower than in cars without such systems.
Signs of a bad starter: The most obvious sign is clicking when the ignition key is turned and the engine fails to start.
But how do you know that the car does not want to start because of a dead battery? Everything is very simple. If at the time of starting the engine, the electrical equipment of the car is working normally (including the headlights), then, most likely, the failure to start the engine is associated with the starter.
Solution: Naturally, in the event of a starter malfunction, it is required to dismantle it for subsequent repair or to install a new unit. By the way, usually those workshops that are engaged in sorting starters offer not to wait for the end of the repair, but to purchase an already restored mechanism. In this case, you will hand over yours and, having paid extra, will pick up an already working starter. In some cases, you can save a lot of time this way.
Unfortunately, not in all cases, the car starter is subject to refurbishment. Everything, of course, depends on the type of damage.
Problems with the fuel system of the car
Over time, it can become contaminated and cause an engine start failure due to not enough fuel in the injection system. including in fuel system water may enter (for example, as a result of the accumulation of condensate or ingress into fuel tank low-quality fuel), which will turn into ice in severe frost. This threatens with problems with the ignition of the fuel. As a result, under certain conditions, you will not be able to start the engine in the cold. Remember that the fuel line in the car is not large enough in diameter and even small particles of ice can completely stop the circulation of fuel.
Fuel system symptoms: During the start of the car, the engine almost started, but a misfire occurred. The engine starts, but runs unevenly (speed jumps). The car has lost power. While driving, the engine may stall.
Yes, of course, all these symptoms may also indicate other problems with the car (including sensors), but if you are faced with a problem starting the engine in cold weather, you should first of all check the performance of the fuel system together with the battery, generator and starter. systems.
Solution: If water gets into your car's fuel system, you may need a professional flush. fuel line at the technical center.
You can also reduce the risk of water forming in the fuel system. To do this, use special fuel additives that are sold in car dealerships. As a rule, such products contain alcohol, which can, by collecting and holding water, then carry it out through the exhaust system of the car. In particular, we advise you to fill a full tank of fuel in winter to reduce the risk of formation in the tank a large number condensate.
If your machine is running diesel fuel, try to use only high-quality fuel. Remember that otherwise it may simply freeze in the cold, thereby preventing the engine from starting.
You are using the wrong engine oil
First of all on engine oil frost affects. So, the lower the temperature outside, the thicker the oil becomes. This makes it harder for the engine to run, which in turn puts more stress on the battery. As a result, if the oil is literally frozen, turning into a jelly-like, hard-flowing mass, starting the engine can be difficult.
Signs of problems starting the engine due to engine oil: If your engine oil becomes too viscous at low temperatures, then most likely you will not be able to start the engine, since the starter will not turn it at the time of starting. For a reliable start of the car, use winter motor oils that have a low viscosity. It is worth noting that it is better not to use such motor oils at high positive temperatures, since they will not provide high-quality engine lubrication.
Solution: Check your vehicle manual to find out which engine oil the manufacturer recommends. If this is allowed by the instructions, switch to a more viscous engine oil for the winter period (fill winter oils) or use all-season engine oils.
Here is a list of engine oil designations that are suitable for use in winter season: SAE 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W.
Pay attention to the number in front of the Latin letter W. The smaller it is, the lower the temperature threshold for using oil. Accordingly, if you live in a region with cold climatic conditions, engine oil with the designation 0W. True, only if the automaker allows the use of such markings in the car manual.
Cars with carburetor
If your car was made more than 30 years ago, then most likely it is equipped with a carburetor, which in your car is responsible for adjusting the fuel mixture for combustion in the engine's combustion chamber. Unfortunately, carbureted cars most prone to starting problems in cold weather.
For example, carburetor nozzles are often clogged with ice. As a result, the vehicle's engine may not start or may not operate properly.
Therefore, while starting the engine on a carbureted machine, keeping your foot on the clutch (if the machine is equipped with manual transmission), gently depress the accelerator pedal slightly. This will provide the carburetor with a small amount of fuel to help start the engine.
All modern cars are currently equipped with electronic system injection and do not have the same cold start problems that owners of older carbureted cars usually face.
Naturally, these are not all the reasons that can lead to failure to start the engine. For example, the car may not start due to problems with sensors, due to faulty spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel pump, etc.
But in general, if such components are faulty, you will notice problems with starting the engine, not only in cold weather.
In severe frost, the engine may not start for the following banal reasons:1. bad oil. - I pour TOKAY oil, Japan, in Vladik for 4 liters of 1800 with delivery to Anadyr 2300, 0W30, zero problems.
2. Weak battery - Everything is simple. No bad batteries, there is incorrect operation and a malfunction of the recharging system (IMHO).
3. Faulty ignition system.
4. Bad gasoline. - It does not threaten us - he is always bad.
5. Other non-banal reasons. Here is the algorithm by which you can start the car in the cold:
1. it's the oil The consistency of the oil can be checked on the dipstick. You do not need to be a great specialist to see that the oil has thickened too much in the cold. Summer, low-quality or dirty oil which has not been changed for a long time. Do not be too lazy to check the oil before sinning on the battery. If you are convinced that the oil in the crankcase is bad, and with a replacement big problems- there is a way to survive severe frosts. Consider it a forced emergency. ..At normal oil cause of bad shaft scrolling..
2. it's in the battery. It may be broken or worn out. Before the onset of frost, it is recommended to put the battery on charge for at least 6-7 hours. If it doesn’t pull again in the morning, you will have to buy another one, even if this one is completely new. Batteries with ceramic plates (eg Warta) can die after just a few deep (full) discharges. The power of a battery is highly dependent on its temperature. If the battery worked normally in the summer, then warming it up even without recharging (you can bring it home at night, if urgent, you can warm it up in a bowl of warm water), you will achieve summer scrolling efficiency while it is warm. ... If the shaft spins well, and there is at least one pop ....
3. the reason is in the ignition system. The first thing to do is to replace the candles with new ones or ignite them. Place on a metal stand on a gas stove and heat for 30-40 minutes. As a result, the entire plaque burns from them, the insulators become white. If they remain red, the candles should be cleaned by soaking in a rust converter for 1-2 days. Pay attention to the required electrode gap. You can even reduce it a little. For example, for 1.1 to 1.0mm.. Having unscrewed one candle, one can make assumptions about the starting problem: -If there are black (or very dark) deposits on the candle, the fuel mixture is excessively rich. -If there is no dark soot on the removed spark plug, it is a lean fuel mixture or no fuel. BB wires. Those ends that are in the coil usually do not lose lubrication. And those ends that are worn on candles need to be lubricated silicone grease or just spray it with water. ... failure to start in cold weather ... ..
4. from bad gasoline. THE MOST COMMON REASON! Gasoline in our country is most often diluted in two ways - either with gasoline with a smaller octane rating(cheaper), or just water. The mixture just won't burn. Moreover, it is difficult to immediately understand why this motor stubbornly refuses to work - the spark is excellent, gasoline is supplied, the shaft spins, and .... not start. In this case, the way out is to replace gasoline with a known good one or top up good 2 times more than the remains in the tank. ..... about powerful starting transformers capable of spinning the frozen shaft of any engine. You can use them very limited time. If there are no "pops" at all - do not "drive" the starter for nothing - burn it, but look for the cause of the problem. Five minutes of trying to start without “pops” with powerful scrolling and “dry” friction is equivalent in terms of wear to a mileage of 500 km.
5. Other reasons: insufficient fuel pressure in the system, clogged nozzles, frozen wet air filter, etc….. any minor flaws in the cold can be a big problem.
6. defective starter. The bendix either does not engage with the flywheel or breaks off from it. Here it is necessary to put the car in heat and warm it up, or put a fan heater under the hood and warm the starter. It's worth picking up - that's for sure.
7. Special attention contacts. Oxidized, loose contacts significantly reduce the likelihood of starting. For example, the contacts of the battery, starter, generator, explosive wires, coils - ESPECIALLY, sensors, etc ... In the basins, as a rule, the FAZ and Oxygen sensor with Bosch firmware, with January, the oxygen sensor is not to blame.
It happens that the lambda probe (an oxygen content sensor in exhaust gases) and MAF (MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR). This is mistake. They come into operation only after warming up to operating temperature. But the air temperature sensor, in frost, gives the brain a fundamental signal about the right composition mixtures. Therefore, if the mixture is very rich, you can try to turn it off or warm it in your hands - it also concerns TAZs.
Before starting, it is recommended to turn on the ignition several times without starting the engine and let it run fuel pump, which creates in the system the right pressure. -if the battery is good and spent the night in the cold, you can turn on the dipped beam for a minute and warm it up a little. - it is also recommended to depress the clutch pedal, facilitating the work of the starter.
If the engine does not start on the second attempt:
1. Depress the clutch pedal, depress the accelerator (gas) pedal to the floor.
2. Key in the ignition on the starter and 10-15 sec. crank the starter (the lower part of the candles filled with fuel becomes dry). (This is not always understood by a car whose throttle cable is not correctly adjusted - only applies to Foreign cars.)
3. Restart the engine. If it was not possible to start from 2-3 times, then stop trying and look for the cause. It makes no sense to drive the starter and plant the battery. - No need to turn the crankshaft more than 3-4-5 revolutions. Between attempts, a break of 30 seconds-1 minute is required. so that the fuel injected into the cylinders evaporates. Otherwise, fills the candles. No need to touch the gas - the brains do not understand such a situation (this does not apply to basins). If none of the above gives a result, there is only one way out. You need to drive the car into a warm box. And after a long warming up, continue trying to start - with the basins, repeat everything again - they will definitely start with a live battery without a garage.
About the insulation of the engine and battery.
Here everyone swears as best he can, but I will not list what I have seen, but simply describe what I have tried.
Warming is definitely needed. The question is what and how to insulate. Let's look at the analogy first.
If warm air is driven into a warm glass and turned over, then it can cool only due to the heat transfer of the walls, and leakage-blowing will be insignificant. Cool down in an hour...
If this glass is turned over, everything will blow out, and heat transfer can be neglected. And a minute will not stand hot ...
If engine compartment there will be no gaps, including the radiator grill will be TIGHTLY blocked by closed blinds - there will be nowhere for heat to escape, except through heat transfer through the walls, just like from an inverted glass.
How to make such a glass?
We have one side hole - a radiator grill on the front end. It must be closed so that the heat cannot escape sideways. These are blinds. They must be installed so that air under the hood cannot enter bypassing them. Then they in the closed state will deafly close the heat leakage to the side.
There remains a downward leak, but it is much smaller than the lateral one.
After installing the blinds, it is necessary to eliminate the slots adjoining the hood. After that, it is better to glue the iron in a circle with a porous material and additionally apply a "blanket" to the engine. For the "blanket" there are special heat-resistant capes.
The traditional Russian "Cardboard in front of the radiator" is worse than blinds - through the slots to the side, the heat will leave very willingly and the effect of the "blanket" will not be so significant.
Experience shows that with shutters in the parking lot, the internal combustion engine cools down more than three times slower. In the presence of wind, the difference is even more significant. That is, during the night in frosts, the automatic winding will be three times less.
Blinds should be automatic so as not to engage in their opening and closing. But this is a slightly different topic, and we, with our frosts for 7 months a year, will focus on a simple radiator seal.
Initially, it is necessary to solve the issue of preserving battery heat and the most suitable and proven option for years is a thermal case for batteries with automatic temperature maintenance (http://thermocase.ru/). Who organizes it depends on his means and assault.
Sorry for the plagiarism, but I once found it freely available from one motorist and also did this in addition to the thermal case for the battery - I’m happy like an elephant, which is what I wish you:
And so let's start: Insulation of the engine compartment is a complex thing.
It is necessary to understand the ways of heat escape, to estimate whether it is enough to cut off these paths. simple actions, such as an auto blanket or a piece of penofol-felt. At all a good option- measure the result with a thermal imager and confirm with your own feelings.
Of course, not everyone does this or can ask the head of the section Mikhalev from MP "GKH" to do this, but you can see the result of this approach on the example of someone else's car.
Photos can be seen at: http://www.anadyr.org/posts/kak-zavo...eresuuschemsya
Additionally, you can put the blinds on the radiator grill, which in some modes simply must be open, and in some - on the contrary, in the parking lot - the more tightly closed, the slower machine cools down. Window blinds will not work, but home-made from tin which cover heating pipes, each covered with fabric just right + a cable to the salon from throttle valve from an UAZ from the Auto Parts store and a spring from an old folding bed.
Of course, such a perversion will seem superfluous to many, and Webast for 50 thousand rubles is much easier, but not everyone’s salary per month allows this, but someone just likes to dig into the car ....
Good luck with perversions.
Forgot about errors:
1. Light up from a working car - the batteries should differ by at least 10Amps and not in your direction.
2. A battery from a working car to yours - like I’ll start it up and give it away quickly with removal when the internal combustion engine is working - And brains are sooo expensive and if your car was produced and operated very little (from 2006 to 50,000 km) it can and will withstand or vice versa, he is so old that then the manufacturer thought about the reliability of a foreign car, and not about profit (until 96) - good luck, but if you are not sure - the brains even for the most shabby TAZ cost from 5000 rubles + delivery + something that is not in Anadyr - setup....
Smoking rules:
1. Connect without mixing up the terminals.
2. Start the internal combustion engine of a working car.
3. Working car must work for at least 5 minutes to adjust his brains (not for TAZs) to an increased charging current.
4. Turn on and off for a minute the dipped beam of the animated car.
5. Perform a test run (batteries on both cars are connected as standard). Strong landing ICE operation a working car and not starting a reanimated one - wait 10-15 minutes.
6. We repeat everything from point 1.
Emergency - disconnect the negative terminal of the battery of the resuscitated car (at the risk of burning your brains and the benefactor if he is not a TAZovod, which is also not an option), we fix the launcher crabs and start from working internal combustion engine at a speed of the latter at least 2000. The plant is guaranteed with the normula of everything else.
If the battery is still alive and the first launch without an intermediary is not successful and you are not afraid to disassemble a part of the car:
1. We go home for the most alcoholic adicolone (toilet water will not work - Deda's Shipr is better)
2. We disassemble the air duct from the air filter.
4. We spray the cologne and quickly close it - START - for everything about all 10 seconds and the cologne should be at body temperature under the arm.
Hurray we are in the ranks.
If not, wait for warmer weather. Boil Tea - pouring on intake manifold, well, and the rest of the perversions of the type, but let's boil the oil in the crankcase ....
Gee Gee: This often ends the ordeals of many TAZovodov (these lie under the TAZ, not because it often breaks down, but because the sound insulation is not in the doo-doo and any problems are immediately heard in the cabin, which cannot be said about foreign cars, until it falls off there and you will not see your own wheel overtaking you on the track, you will not remember wheel bearing) and owners front wheel drive cars, which cannot be said about full or plug-in drive.
You are joyfully sitting in a warm car, on the left is your wife, behind your mother-in-law and son "Dreaming of not being late for school", and the car either stalled when starting off or rides as if the mother-in-law has grown fat to the size of an elephant ....
Remember the viscose sleeve or rear axle. The latter just need to warm up the bridge with a burner, and it’s better not to rely on a kind uncle who supposedly replaced all the oils back in Japan, still carry out an audit of the bridge in the summer. The first - I never found an answer while I had a Nissan Sanka, until I ruined the viscous coupling in one winter with a breakdown abrupt start from the place and did not remove the cardan with all the insides of the bridge and ........ did not get the type of front-wheel drive Nissan. May you not be honored with such -42 degree mercy in the morning.
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In the event of a cold snap or sudden temperature changes, there may be problems with starting the car. In this case, a few days of inactivity without movement are enough, and the engine refuses to start. Practice has shown that during such periods, in many cars, certain problems associated with a decrease in temperature “crawl out”. The car owner, in turn, has to find out why the car does not start in the cold and fix the problem.
Below we highlight common problems with starting the engine. We can talk about any one malfunction, or even about a group of problems that need prompt elimination. If the car owner carefully approaches the maintenance of the car and strictly follows the instructions, then he simply will never encounter many malfunctions.
What if the car won't start when it's cold? Why is this happening? What to do? In a difficult situation, it is important to find a solution in time and decide on ways to fix the problem.
Starter failure
CAUSE. Low cranking power of the engine, which occurs in the event of a violation (displacement) of the starter alignment, its damage or consumption by the device more current. As a result, the starter is not able to crank the frozen engine.
SYMPTOMS. During start-up, there are unpleasant noises that are uncharacteristic for a car. If there is a problem with the starter, the engine will not crank, even with a fully charged battery.
Debugg:
The best decision- repair or replace the starter.
Battery discharge
CAUSE. Fast battery drain - actual problem for devices that are three years old or older. The same malfunction may occur if there are errors in the operation of the device or the presence of internal damage.
SYMPTOMS. There are malfunctions in the rotation of the starter, or it completely stops turning the engine. A decrease in battery capacity manifests itself as a less bright light bulbs on the dashboard.
Debugg:
- Check the battery terminals for oxidation or dirt on the surface, which leads to deterioration of the contact connection. Often cleaning the terminals is enough to restore the normal operation of the battery.
- Give it a load. If the power source responds even slightly to attempts to start the car, turn on the low beam. So you create a load on the battery, and run the main processes inside. Perhaps, already at the next attempt, the battery will give out the amount of energy required for starting.
- Start "from the pusher". If it was not possible to determine why the car does not start in the cold, you can ask someone to push the car. But this method is only suitable for cars with manual transmission.
- “Light up” from a knowingly charged battery of another car.
- Take the power supply to a warm room for a while. Often such a measure is enough for the battery to warm up and be able to complete the tasks.
- Put in a new battery more power. Such a measure should be resorted to as a last resort, if other options have not come up.
Preventive measures:
- Install a heating system that will keep the engine temperature under control. When cooled below acceptable level, the electronics gives the command to start the engine in order to reach the desired ("working") temperature.
- Take the battery to a warm room overnight. This is a common thing for car owners who live in the northern regions of the country (in Siberia or the Urals).
Webasto heating system
Poor quality fuel or failures in its supply to the engine
REASON - mixing gasoline with water, for greater benefits. Some dishonest gas stations dilute fuel, which leads to a decrease in the quality of the latter and the appearance of problems for car owners. The use of such fuel, as a rule, leads to contamination of engine parts and a decrease in its power.
It is easy to identify the reason why the car does not start in cold weather when refueling with such gasoline. When the temperature drops below zero, the water in the system freezes. With it, it turns into ice and condensate. As a result, there are malfunctions in the fuel system (whole or a specific section). In this case, problems must be looked for, starting from the filter and ending with the fuel pump.
SYMPTOMS. You can recognize the problem by a number of characteristic symptoms - the smell of unburned fuel from the exhaust pipe or the complete absence of fumes. There are no complaints about the operation of the systems, but the car still does not start. Inspection of the candles shows that the electrodes are dry.
Checking the quality of fuel, in such a situation, is easy. Bring, to a small spot of fuel, an open flame, at a distance of 5-6 centimeters. If there is no ignition, conclusions can be drawn about a large amount of water in gasoline. Due to poor evaporation of carbohydrates, ignition of the fuel does not occur. If fuel is not supplied to the combustion chamber, or if it is not in the tank at all, then the candle will be dry. The reverse situation is also possible, when the electrodes are filled with gasoline.
Debugg:
If you have determined why the car does not start in cold weather, and diluted gasoline turned out to be the cause, use special fuel “dryers”. If this method does not bring results, wait for the temperature to rise outside or warm the car in a heated garage. After warming up, it is necessary to drain bad fuel, clean and dry the elements of the fuel system.
Preventive measures:
- Use the services of only proven gas stations.
- Try not to let the level of gasoline in the tank drop. Ideally, if, during the cold period, the fuel tank is filled to the maximum. Otherwise, there is a high risk of moisture condensation and its accumulation in the fuel.
- If you suspect the quality of gasoline, use additives that convert water to a gel-like substance. This is required after each visit to the gas station.
- Install a fine filter equipped with a sump. The task of the latter is to collect excess moisture. It is advisable to place the device as close as possible to the fuel tank.
Thickened engine oil in the engine
CAUSE. In case of contamination or natural aging of the oil, Low quality or errors in selection, the working composition thickens. In this case, additional resistance arises for rotating engine elements that are not able to turn during the start process.
SYMPTOMS. It is possible to recognize the reason why the car does not start in cold weather by a number of characteristic features. The battery is good and charged, but the starter, with great effort, scrolls the engine. When checking the oil level with a dipstick, you can see increased density lubricating compound.
Debugg:
The best solution is to wait for warming or warm the car in the garage, because change the oil, in similar situation, almost unrealistic. If the car is equipped mechanical box gears, you can pick it up in tow, and ride some distance. Perhaps it will turn the shaft and start the engine.
Preventive measures:
- Control the quality of the oil being poured. Use products from trusted brands and look at the index (it should be 0W or 5W). If the car is new, use synthetic. If the car has already covered a distance of 100 thousand kilometers or more, you can give preference semi-synthetic oils. After purchase, check the composition for frost resistance. So, if the oil has stood at sub-zero temperatures for several hours, and at the same time remains in a liquid state, then everything is fine. In the event that the composition has thickened and reacts slowly to the vibrations of the canister, return the product to the store.
- If the car, for a long time, will stand in the cold, then, after turning off the ignition, it is worth adding 100-200 ml of gasoline to the crankcase. In this way, it is possible to dilute the oil and eliminate problems with the scrolling of the engine elements during its start. Such a procedure does almost no harm to the motor, but it is not necessary to abuse it. For modern engines, dilution can be fraught. They are more suitable for various antioxidant, cleaning and lubricating additives.
The use of "summer" diesel fuel in diesel cars
CAUSE. Another reason why the car does not start in cold weather is the filling of "summer" diesel fuel into the fuel tank. When the temperature drops, the fuel thickens and, with difficulty, is pumped through the fuel system of the machine. The situation is complicated by paraffin flakes that clog various knots and exclude the normal passage of diesel fuel to the engine.
SYMPTOMS. The starter spins, but the engine does not start. At the same time, nothing comes out of the exhaust pipe.
Debugg:
- Use automotive chemicals to start the engine. Read the instructions carefully and follow the manufacturer's recommendations before use.
- Warm up with hot water, fuel filter, injectors and injection pump. When doing this work, be careful. Do not allow water to enter the alternator or starter. Then try to start the car again.
In detail: How to start a diesel engine in cold weather,.
Preventive measures:
- Install a fuel filter heater.
- Before starting the engine, turn the key in the ignition several times. This is how you heat up the candles.
- When cold weather sets in, pour only “winter” fuel into the tank. If there are prerequisites for lowering the temperature, but the required fuel is not available at gas stations, add special (depressant) additives or anti-gel to the tank.
Misregulation of the ignition system
CAUSES. Violation of the integrity of the wiring or malfunctions in the ignition system create problems for the operation of the candles. As a result, no spark appears on the electrodes, and the fuel does not ignite.
SYMPTOMS. You can determine why the car does not start in cold weather by the following signs - the starter works, but the shaft does not scroll. In such a situation, it is worth doing a check to accurately diagnose the problem. The work is carried out in three stages:
- Checking the distributor for the fact of the appearance of a spark. Remove the center wire from the cover of the distributor and bring it to the unpainted part of the metal at a distance of 10 mm. When you turn the key in the ignition, a spark and a characteristic crack will appear. If this does not happen, then the problem is in the high-voltage wires or coil.
- Check spark plug. Remove the wire from any candle, then lead it to the metal (mass), five millimeters. Now try to start the machine. In this case, the spark will be less powerful, but it is not difficult to notice it. Wear gloves to avoid damage. If not, wrap the spark plug wire in a dry rag (will act as insulation). If there is a spark, we can talk about the health of the candles. Here, the problems are most likely related to the wiring, runners or distributor cover.
- Wiring check. Problems are easiest to identify if you turn off the lights and try to start the engine. In complete darkness, you can quickly find a place where there are problems with insulation, and a spark breaks through.
Debugg:
Measures aimed at restoring the vehicle to working capacity depend on the causes of the malfunction and the model. This is where a replacement might help. high voltage wires, installing a new distributor, calcining candles or buying new coil. When operating a vehicle in high humidity conditions, spraying high-voltage wires with a special aerosol with water-repellent properties often helps.
Preventive measures:
To avoid problems, it is important, before the onset of frost, to go to the service station and instruct the masters to adjust the ignition system. This procedure has a positive effect on fuel consumption.
All systems work fine, but spark plugs are wet
REASONS. To determine why the car does not start in cold weather, it is worth assessing the condition of the candles. If they are dirty, then the spark cannot break through the layer of dirt. Another reason is also possible - combustible mixture while other systems were running. As a result, the candles are filled with fuel and cannot perform their functions.
SYMPTOMS. Recognizing the problem is easy - just unscrew the candles and assess the condition. Signs of a malfunction are the presence of gasoline on the electrodes and the smell of unburned fuel from the exhaust.
Why floods spark plugs, how to clean and dry candles,
.
Debugg:
- Stop trying to start the engine and wait for some time until the fuel "drains". Now try again to start and fully depress the gas pedal. The last action allows you to "dry" the cylinders. After that, try to start the engine again. If some of the cylinders are dry, they can "grab", pulling others along with them.
- Clean, anneal, or change spark plugs. Candles can be cleaned using a toothbrush and special means for the cleaning. It is important not to get carried away here in order to prevent damage to the insulation layer. The products are calcined on the stove until the candle cannot be grabbed. The hotter the candles, at the time of twisting, the better.
Preventive measures:
The best solution is to prevent the problems mentioned above by doing a few simple steps. If the car does not start the first time, do not step on the gas. Let the motor "grab" in the normal start mode. At the same time, from time to time, inspect the candles and replace them (if necessary).
- One of the best ways to troubleshoot engine starting problems is to install preheater.
- It happens that, from the first or the second time, it was not possible to start the car, but there is a noticeable tendency for a longer “seizing”. In this situation, continue cranking the starter without exceeding ten second intervals. Sooner or later, everything will work out.
- Many people ask why the car does not start in the cold, but at the same time they do not monitor the condition of the vehicle. To avoid problems, the fuel system and spark plugs should be checked and kept clean. If, in warm weather, dirt does not prevent the engine from starting, then in cold weather it can interfere with starting, due to the accumulation of condensate.
- If problems arise due to condensation in exhaust pipe, then you can remove it from there by removing the pipe using a screwdriver.
- When starting a car with a manual transmission, press the clutch, then turn the key in the ignition. Thanks to this, it is possible to facilitate the work of the crankshaft of the motor. In this case, the gearbox gears remain immobilized. When starting the car in cold weather, reducing the load on the starter is extremely important.
- Dry the pads before leaving the car for a long time. brake system. At the same time, do not leave the car with the hand brake. Otherwise, the water on the pads freezes, which causes the latter to freeze to the discs (in the case of drum brakes, the situation is even more complicated). To fix the car, it is enough to set any of the speeds (for manual transmission) or move the handle to the “P” position (for automatic transmission). If the slope of the road is large, then it is better to place stops under the wheels.
- On some foreign cars, the probability of a successful start depends on the level of enrichment of the fuel mixture, controlled by electronics. It's easy to explain. In Europe, "winter" fuel is used, with a high volume of light fractions. For this reason, some vehicles require longer engine cranking.
- In frosty weather, it is better not to use the remote start from the alarm. It is difficult for electronics to understand cold weather starting problems, so the risk of battery drain and spark plugs is increased.
- It is important to pay special attention diesel engines. It is advisable to start them on the first try, rotating the starter until the engine "grabs".
- If the car starts, leave it to work for a period. Do not immediately turn on the headlights, radio, heating and other equipment. The best solution is to start and drive some distance, at low speed. This helps to warm up the main components and assemblies.
Above, it is discussed in detail why the car does not start in the cold, and how the car owner should act in difficult situations. The main thing is not to get lost when problems arise and act competently according to the situation.