In severe frost, the engine may not start for the following banal reasons:

1. bad oil. - I pour TOKAY oil, Japan, in Vladik for 4 liters of 1800 with delivery to Anadyr 2300, 0W30, zero problems.

2. Weak battery - Everything is simple. No bad batteries, there is incorrect operation and a malfunction of the recharging system (IMHO).

3. Faulty ignition system.

4. Bad gasoline. - It does not threaten us - he is always bad.

5. Other non-banal reasons. Here is the algorithm by which you can start the car in the cold:

1. it's the oil The consistency of the oil can be checked on the dipstick. You do not need to be a great specialist to see that the oil has thickened too much in the cold. Summer, low-quality or dirty oil which has not been changed for a long time. Do not be too lazy to check the oil before sinning on the battery. If you are convinced that the oil in the crankcase is bad, and with a replacement big problems- there is a way to survive severe frosts. Consider it a forced emergency. ..At normal oil cause of bad shaft scrolling..

2. it's in the battery. It may be broken or worn out. Before the onset of frost, it is recommended to put the battery on charge for at least 6-7 hours. If it doesn’t pull again in the morning, you will have to buy another one, even if this one is completely new. Batteries with ceramic plates (eg Warta) can die after just a few deep (full) discharges. The power of a battery is highly dependent on its temperature. If the battery worked normally in the summer, then warming it up even without recharging (you can bring it home at night, if urgent, you can warm it up in a bowl of warm water), you will achieve summer scrolling efficiency while it is warm. ... If the shaft spins well, and there is at least one pop ....

3. the reason is in the ignition system. The first thing to do is to replace the candles with new ones or ignite them. Place on a metal stand on a gas stove and heat for 30-40 minutes. As a result, the entire plaque burns from them, the insulators become white. If they remain red, the candles should be cleaned by soaking in a rust converter for 1-2 days. Pay attention to the required electrode gap. You can even reduce it a little. For example, for 1.1 to 1.0mm.. Having unscrewed one candle, one can make assumptions about the starting problem: -If there are black (or very dark) deposits on the candle, the fuel mixture is excessively rich. -If there is no dark soot on the removed spark plug, it is a lean fuel mixture or no fuel. BB wires. Those ends that are in the coil usually do not lose lubrication. And those ends that are worn on candles need to be lubricated silicone grease or just spray it with water. ... failure to start in cold weather ... ..

4. from bad gasoline. THE MOST COMMON REASON! Gasoline in our country is most often diluted in two ways - either with gasoline with a smaller octane rating(cheaper), or just water. The mixture just won't burn. Moreover, it is difficult to immediately understand why this motor stubbornly refuses to work - the spark is excellent, gasoline is supplied, the shaft spins, and .... not start. In this case, the way out is to replace gasoline with a known good one or top up good 2 times more than the remains in the tank. ..... about powerful starting transformers capable of spinning the frozen shaft of any engine. You can use them very limited time. If there are no "pops" at all - do not "drive" the starter for nothing - burn it, but look for the cause of the problem. Five minutes of trying to start without “pops” with powerful scrolling and “dry” friction is equivalent in terms of wear to a mileage of 500 km.

5. Other reasons: insufficient fuel pressure in the system, clogged nozzles, frozen wet air filter, etc….. any minor flaws in the cold can be a big problem.

6. defective starter. The bendix either does not engage with the flywheel or breaks off from it. Here it is necessary to put the car in heat and warm it up, or put a fan heater under the hood and warm the starter. It's worth picking up - that's for sure.

7. Special attention contacts. Oxidized, loose contacts significantly reduce the likelihood of starting. For example, the contacts of the battery, starter, generator, explosive wires, coils - ESPECIALLY, sensors, etc ... In the basins, as a rule, the FAZ and Oxygen sensor with Bosch firmware, with January, the oxygen sensor is not to blame.

It happens that the lambda probe (an oxygen content sensor in exhaust gases) and MAF (MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR). This is mistake. They come into operation only after warming up to operating temperature. But the air temperature sensor, in frost, gives the brain a fundamental signal about the right composition mixtures. Therefore, if the mixture is very rich, you can try to turn it off or warm it in your hands - it also concerns TAZs.

Before starting, it is recommended to turn on the ignition several times without starting the engine and let it run fuel pump, which creates in the system the right pressure. -if the battery is good and spent the night in the cold, you can turn on the dipped beam for a minute and warm it up a little. - it is also recommended to depress the clutch pedal, facilitating the work of the starter.

If the engine does not start on the second attempt:

1. Depress the clutch pedal, depress the accelerator (gas) pedal to the floor.

2. Key in the ignition on the starter and 10-15 sec. crank the starter (the lower part of the candles filled with fuel becomes dry). (This is not always understood by a car whose throttle cable is not correctly adjusted - only applies to Foreign cars.)

3. Restart the engine. If it was not possible to start from 2-3 times, then stop trying and look for the cause. It makes no sense to drive the starter and plant the battery. - No need to turn the crankshaft more than 3-4-5 revolutions. Between attempts, a break of 30 seconds-1 minute is required. so that the fuel injected into the cylinders evaporates. Otherwise, fills the candles. No need to touch the gas - the brains do not understand such a situation (this does not apply to basins). If none of the above gives a result, there is only one way out. You need to drive the car into a warm box. And after a long warming up, continue trying to start - with the basins, repeat everything again - they will definitely start with a live battery without a garage.

About the insulation of the engine and battery.

Here everyone swears as best he can, but I will not list what I have seen, but simply describe what I have tried.

Warming is definitely needed. The question is what and how to insulate. Let's look at the analogy first.

If warm air is driven into a warm glass and turned over, then it can cool only due to the heat transfer of the walls, and leakage-blowing will be insignificant. Cool down in an hour...

If this glass is turned over, everything will blow out, and heat transfer can be neglected. And a minute will not stand hot ...

If engine compartment there will be no gaps, including the radiator grill will be TIGHTLY blocked by closed blinds - there will be nowhere for heat to escape, except through heat transfer through the walls, just like from an inverted glass.

How to make such a glass?

We have one side hole - a radiator grill on the front end. It must be closed so that the heat cannot escape sideways. These are blinds. They must be installed so that air under the hood cannot enter bypassing them. Then they in the closed state will deafly close the heat leakage to the side.

There remains a downward leak, but it is much smaller than the lateral one.

After installing the blinds, it is necessary to eliminate the slots adjoining the hood. After that, it is better to glue the iron in a circle with a porous material and additionally apply a "blanket" to the engine. For the "blanket" there are special heat-resistant capes.

The traditional Russian "Cardboard in front of the radiator" is worse than blinds - through the slots to the side, the heat will leave very willingly and the effect of the "blanket" will not be so significant.

Experience shows that with shutters in the parking lot, the internal combustion engine cools down more than three times slower. In the presence of wind, the difference is even more significant. That is, during the night in frosts, the automatic winding will be three times less.

Blinds should be automatic so as not to engage in their opening and closing. But this is a slightly different topic, and we, with our frosts for 7 months a year, will focus on a simple radiator seal.

Initially, it is necessary to solve the issue of preserving battery heat and the most suitable and proven option for years is a thermal case for batteries with automatic temperature maintenance (http://thermocase.ru/). Who organizes it depends on his means and assault.

Sorry for the plagiarism, but I once found it freely available from one motorist and also did this in addition to the thermal case for the battery - I’m happy like an elephant, which is what I wish you:

And so let's start: Insulation of the engine compartment is a complex thing.

It is necessary to understand the ways of heat escape, to estimate whether it is enough to cut off these paths. simple actions, such as an auto blanket or a piece of penofol-felt. At all a good option- measure the result with a thermal imager and confirm with your own feelings.

Of course, not everyone does this or can ask the head of the section Mikhalev from MP "GKH" to do this, but you can see the result of this approach on the example of someone else's car.

Photos can be seen at: http://www.anadyr.org/posts/kak-zavo...eresuuschemsya

Additionally, you can put the blinds on the radiator grill, which in some modes simply must be open, and in some - on the contrary, in the parking lot - the more tightly closed, the slower machine cools down. Window blinds will not work, but home-made from tin which cover heating pipes, each covered with fabric just right + a cable to the salon from throttle valve from an UAZ from the Auto Parts store and a spring from an old folding bed.

Of course, such a perversion will seem superfluous to many, and Webast for 50 thousand rubles is much easier, but not everyone’s salary per month allows this, but someone just likes to dig into the car ....

Good luck with perversions.

Forgot about errors:

1. Light up from a working car - the batteries should differ by at least 10Amps and not in your direction.

2. A battery from a working car to yours - like I’ll start it up and give it away quickly with removal when the internal combustion engine is working - And brains are sooo expensive and if your car was produced and operated very little (from 2006 to 50,000 km) it can and will withstand or vice versa, he is so old that then the manufacturer thought about the reliability of a foreign car, and not about profit (until 96) - good luck, but if you are not sure - the brains even for the most shabby TAZ cost from 5000 rubles + delivery + something that is not in Anadyr - setup....

Smoking rules:

1. Connect without mixing up the terminals.

2. Start the internal combustion engine of a working car.

3. Working car must work for at least 5 minutes to adjust his brains (not for TAZs) to an increased charging current.

4. Turn on and off for a minute the dipped beam of the animated car.

5. Perform a test run (batteries on both cars are connected as standard). Strong landing ICE operation a working car and not starting a reanimated one - wait 10-15 minutes.

6. We repeat everything from point 1.

Emergency - disconnect the negative terminal of the battery of the resuscitated car (at the risk of burning your brains and the benefactor if he is not a TAZovod, which is also not an option), we fix the launcher crabs and start from working internal combustion engine at a speed of the latter at least 2000. The plant is guaranteed with the normula of everything else.

If the battery is still alive and the first launch without an intermediary is not successful and you are not afraid to disassemble a part of the car:

1. We go home for the most alcoholic adicolone (toilet water will not work - Deda's Shipr is better)

2. We disassemble the air duct from the air filter.

4. We spray the cologne and quickly close it - START - for everything about all 10 seconds and the cologne should be at body temperature under the arm.

Hurray we are in the ranks.

If not, wait for warmer weather. Boil Tea - pouring on intake manifold, well, and the rest of the perversions of the type, but let's boil the oil in the crankcase ....

Gee Gee: This often ends the ordeals of many TAZovodov (these lie under the TAZ, not because it often breaks down, but because the sound insulation is not in the doo-doo and any problems are immediately heard in the cabin, which cannot be said about foreign cars, until it falls off there and you will not see your own wheel overtaking you on the track, you will not remember wheel bearing) and owners front wheel drive cars, which cannot be said about full or plug-in drive.

You are joyfully sitting in a warm car, on the left is your wife, behind your mother-in-law and son "Dreaming of not being late for school", and the car either stalled when starting off or rides as if the mother-in-law has grown fat to the size of an elephant ....

Remember the viscose sleeve or rear axle. The latter just need to warm up the bridge with a burner, and it’s better not to rely on a kind uncle who supposedly replaced all the oils back in Japan, still carry out an audit of the bridge in the summer. The first - I never found an answer while I had a Nissan Sanka, until I ruined the viscous coupling in one winter with a breakdown abrupt start from the place and did not remove the cardan with all the insides of the bridge and ........ did not get the type of front-wheel drive Nissan. May you not be honored with such -42 degree mercy in the morning.
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