Plus on the ignition coil VAZ 2109 carburetor. How to replace the ignition coil with a new one

You rarely meet such a motorist, even the most brilliant kettle, who would not know what a spark is and why it jumps in the engine. Not because of curiosity at all, but because of the fact that everyone who has a front-wheel drive VAZ 2108-2109, at least once, either got wet in the rain, trying to find that very spark, or was late for a date or work, cursing everything in the world . Everything in the world has nothing to do with it, but most likely, the matter is in a banal and antediluvian ignition coil. In order not to be late anywhere else, let's deal with the VAZ 2109 ignition coil once and for all.

Ignition coil device VAZ 2109

In the photo - the ignition coil VAZ 2109, which is needed to obtain a high-quality spark on the electrodes of the candle

Regardless of whether the injector or carburetor is installed on a nine and a half liter engine, the ignition system is made according to the prehistoric distributor type. On the one hand, this is good, it costs less, and on the other hand, it affects the resource of parts. The more elements in the system, the higher the probability of failure of the entire ignition system.

The ignition coil, or module, is necessary to obtain a high-quality spark on the spark plug electrodes. It is capable of delivering high voltage pulses that will provide a discharge between the electrodes of the spark plug. Roughly, this is a small transformer that does not operate in a constant, but in a pulsed mode, which allows you to convert automobile 12 volts into huge 20-30 thousand volts at the output. To transmit an impulse of such a huge voltage, high-voltage wires are used, which can also sometimes slip a pig. The principle of operation of this type of ignition system is simple - the distributor, or distributor, receives a low-voltage pulse from the on-board network, feeds it to the ignition coil, which transforms it into a high discharge pulse. The distributor, at its own discretion, distributes a spark to the cylinders, according to the order of work.

Structurally, a simple ignition coil is made of two windings - primary and secondary, wound on a magnetic circuit. The primary is wound from wire of a thicker section and with fewer turns, while the secondary winding has a thin wire and more turns. High voltage is generated as a result of electromagnetic induction and the accumulation of electromagnetic charge, and the transfer of high voltage charge occurs during the disconnection of the primary winding. In some high-performance sports engines, dual remote ignition systems were installed to increase the reliability of sparking, which minimized the risk of detonation and made the engine more stable. These ignition systems have two spark plugs per cylinder.

Video tutorial on why there is no spark in the VAZ 21099

Symptoms of a 2109 coil failure

In this scheme, the role of the coil cannot be overestimated. As soon as she loses her performance, at least partially, and this is fraught with a complete engine stop. The meanness of the device lies in the fact that this happens completely unexpectedly, without any prior warnings and moral preparation of the driver. Although an attentive driver may still notice some deviations in the operation of the motor, which may be expressed in the following:

1. For 400-500 km before failure, the coil works properly on a cold engine only after 1-2 minutes of warming up. Before that, the engine starts, but convulses, which is most often attributed to debris in the idle system. At the same time, failures may occur in transient modes of engine operation at low speeds, up to about 1000 rpm. They are also difficult to calculate, since the motor fails for no more than 30 seconds, after which everything falls into place.
2. Another short-term symptom - when the engine is cold started and the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine starts to actively triple, but this also happens for only a few seconds, the engine operation returns to normal after the pedal is released and pressed again.
3. During acceleration and when changing gears, temporary failures in the form of jerks, vibrations, deterioration in dynamics may occur, but the symptoms disappear as suddenly as they appeared. This can also last a few seconds, but it is repeated more and more often.
4. Stop car. The engine refuses to start, there is no spark at all.

At the first appearance of these symptoms, a competent nine-man will definitely go to the store to buy and put a spare ignition coil in the trunk. The price of the branded VAZ coil MZATE-2 is about 600 rubles. Extra 850 grams in the trunk of the weather will not do, but it will be more offensive when it is not at hand. The cost of the branded Boshevsky coil is three times more, the coil for nine from Valeo will also cost about 1,500 rubles.

Diagnostics and repair of the ignition coil 2109

"Repair" is a big word. It is unlikely that anyone is going to disassemble the coil in order to look for a breakdown in it, and in principle they are not repaired. They just take it out of the trunk and replace it with new ones. How they get into the trunk, see above. But, of course, it is possible to carry out coil diagnostics if desired. Especially if you have a couple of hours of free time and an oscilloscope in the garage. If not, then you can do it much easier. The people work using folk methods, but we, as part of the people, more technically savvy, would not recommend doing this. Usually, the coil is checked simply - they turn out the spark plug, put it on the central wire, attach it to the mass and scroll the engine with the starter. And even without a candle. Spark jumped - good coil. No spark or weak spark - in the trunk.

True, this way you can disable a completely healthy coil and half of the ignition system, including a semiconductor switch. The fact is that every extra millimeter and every extra ohm in the discharge resistance is an unpredictable load on the ignition system. It is more rational to use an ohmmeter to check the condition of the coil and, according to the connection diagram, check the resistance between terminals K and B. The working coil will show about 0.4 ohms. The secondary winding is checked by measuring the resistance at terminal B and the output of the high-voltage wire. The value for a normal coil is 5 kOhm.

The best coil repair is to install a new one, it doesn’t cost that much, and if it breaks, every minute can be three times more expensive.

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Regardless of the type of engine installed (carburetor or injector), on the VAZ 2109 we are dealing with a distributor type of ignition system. On the one hand, this is good, since the replacement and repair of the unit is cheap. But the resource of details leaves much to be desired.

Device Features

The ignition coil is used to receive a spark coming out of the electrodes of the spark plugs. In short and simply, this is a small transformer that operates in a pulsed mode and converts 12 volts from a car into 20-30 thousand volts at the output. To transmit the impulse, high-voltage wires are used, which also sometimes cause coil failure.

The distributor-type ignition system works simply - the distributor (distributor) receives a low-voltage pulse from the car's network, transfers it to the coil, and it, in turn, transforms the pulse into a high-discharge pulse. Further, the distributor distributes sparks among the cylinders, depending on the order in which they work.

Structurally, the VAZ 2109 coil consists of a pair of windings - secondary and primary.

• The primary winding has fewer turns, but wires with a large cross section;
• Secondary winding of a coil with more turns but smaller wire gauge.

Signs of breakdown

Often the spark on the carburetor disappears unexpectedly when the driver is not ready for such a turn of events. But with enough experience and a careful attitude to the behavior of your car, you can detect signs of a malfunction before the spark disappears and the engine does not start.

So, why does the spark disappear, what are the reasons and what signs may indicate a failure of the ignition coil?

1. Approximately 500 kilometers before the coil life ends, on a cold engine, the device normally starts up only after a couple of minutes of warming up. The motor starts to start with difficulty, but some people think that the problem is in the idle system. At the same time, the engine begins to behave unstably at low speeds. This phenomenon occurs within 10-30 seconds, so you do not always have time to pay attention to it.
2. Another short-term symptom is active engine shaking when starting a cold engine and holding the gas pedal. This will happen literally 3-5 seconds, and after pressing the pedal again, everything will return to normal.
3. When accelerating or changing gears at the gearbox, the engine may produce jerks, vibrations, and the dynamics deteriorate for a short time. The downside is that such a symptom may appear for a few moments, but disappears just as quickly.
4. The most obvious sign is the complete failure of the engine to start. The spark disappears, and therefore the chances of starting is zero.

Examination

If you notice signs of a problem with the ignition coil, or you had to deal with a situation where the engine "died", be sure to check the condition of this element.

As you check, you will be able to determine what caused the failure of the coil and how these problems can be corrected.

How to check the device? The instructions are not difficult, even a beginner can handle it.

To begin with, we will check the condition of the node, after which we will check for correctness by the resistance of the coil itself.

1. If the engine fails to start, check that the coil itself is sparking at all. To do this, the central wire is removed from the distributor and a spare spark plug is connected to it.
2. Now take the candle with pliers and place the metal case on the breaker or engine.
3. If no spark appears when the engine starter is turned, the ignition system has failed.
4. So check the power to the coil, or rather its presence. This will require a multimeter. One terminal is connected to pin B on the coil, and the second goes to ground. Turn on the ignition. If there is no voltage, the ignition switch is the culprit.
5. You can start the engine in emergency mode. To do this, the plus from the battery rushes to contact B of the coil.

If the voltage is on, but there is no spark, check if the primary winding is intact. To do this, the side low-voltage wires are disconnected from the coil and resistance measurements are taken with a multimeter. Then the secondary winding is checked.

Let's talk about this procedure in more detail.

Coil resistance test

1. Unplug your car. To do this, just disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Disconnect all wires and leads to and from the coil.
3. Be sure to arm yourself with the necessary tools and a tester. A multimeter or ohmmeter will work just fine.
4. Take measurements on the primary winding. To do this, the tester probes must be connected to the low-voltage terminals located at the edges of the coil. Before doing this, do not forget to clean the terminals from accumulated dirt and traces of oxidation. Surely they were formed during the operation of the car.
5. Write down the data.
6. Now the resistance of the secondary winding is checked. To do this, you need to transfer one probe of the ohmmeter to terminal B of the coil, and the second to the high voltage.
7. Note the results.
8. The last stage of the test involves measuring the insulation resistance to ground. To do this, you need to connect one terminal of your tester to ground (this is the ignition coil housing), and connect the second one in turn to all three terminals - a pair of low-voltage terminals and one high-voltage terminal located in the middle of the device. If the coil is working, then in all three cases of measurement you will get a resistance of at least 50 ohms.
9. Check the table according to the data recorded earlier.

Coil type	Winding	Resistance indicators
	Primary winding	0.43 ohm +/- 0.04 ohm
		0.42 ohm +/- 0.05 ohm
	Secondary winding	4.08 ohm +/- 0.40 ohm
		5.00 ohm +/- 1.00 ohm

Repair

In fact, the only way to repair a faulty ignition coil on a carburetor or injection VAZ 2109 is to replace the device.

Here you only need to choose which element will replace your old coil.

• MZATE-2. This is a standard coil, which was equipped with all VAZ 2109 from the factory. It costs about 600 rubles, it serves well;
• An excellent alternative, characterized by reliability, durability and efficiency in operation. But it already costs about 1800-2000 rubles;
• Valeo. Something in between the factory and Bosch version, which has good characteristics and positive reviews. Today, such a coil costs an average of 1500 rubles.

A serviceable ignition coil VAZ 2109 ensures the smooth operation of the vehicle. With minor violations in its functioning, the driver notes jerks at the start of movement. As a technical malfunction develops, the car starts up worse, and over time it cannot move at all without outside help. You can avoid unpleasant breakdowns by monitoring the technical condition of the VAZ 2109.

Equipment control

Even a serviceable car, operated in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations, will not start due to various circumstances. Drivers who know how to check the ignition coil will start looking for the cause of the malfunction there. Checking the technical condition of the device does not require special knowledge in the field of car mechanics. It all starts with the switch, which is studied without mandatory dismantling.

To test the ignition circuit of the VAZ 2108 means to determine the resistance level of the secondary and primary windings. Do not lose sight of the level of resistance to mass. To do this, the car is de-energized without fail, otherwise there is a high probability of getting an electrical injury. The further course of action is as follows:

• remove the "minus" from the battery;
• release the leads from the wires;
• get a set of automotive tools for 2108;
• take an ohmmeter;
• make sure there is no dirt on the terminals;
• connect the outputs of the test device to the low-voltage terminals;
• conduct an initial measurement of the resistance level;
• measure the resistance level of the secondary winding of the ignition coil VAZ 2108;
• measure the level of resistance to ground.

The specified check of the ignition coil of a VAZ 2109 or earlier model is the ability to localize the location of the malfunction. It is enough just to follow the readings of the device.

If at one of the stages the arrow constantly twitches from side to side or reflects deviations from the norm, the carried out check of the ignition coil indicates the need to replace it.

Repair work

Car owners should be aware of the main signs that indicate the need for a routine inspection or replacement of the 2108 ignition coil.

These include the appearance of chips, cracks, oil leaks or signs of overheating. Replacement is required if the iron horse refuses to budge at all. For the correct implementation of this procedure, there is a scheme developed by the manufacturer.

First you need to remove the "minus" from the battery terminal. Then the only high-voltage wire is removed. Using a wrench, carefully remove the 2 nuts securing the end of the wire. Too sudden movements are contraindicated: in the VAZ 2109, the carburetor may be damaged. Once the wires are disconnected from the small terminals, the nuts securing the coil are removed. Only then can the failed part be safely removed. The reverse connection also takes place according to a pre-approved scheme:

• pre-fix the coil in its place;
• tighten 2 nuts;
• place the ends of the wires on the small terminals;
• fix the retaining nuts;
• apply voltage to the coil by connecting a high-voltage wire.

The correctness of the replacement is checked by trying to turn on the vehicle. Before this, it is necessary, as already described earlier, to check the resistance level on all elements. Only with standard indicators is it allowed to turn the key in the ignition switch. Despite the fact that the replacement procedure does not require significant time and physical costs, it is better to reduce the likelihood of a breakdown yourself.

A car is a complex mechanism in which each node performs its function. Underestimating a malfunction, ignoring malfunctions and untimely repairs can lead to the fact that one “fine” day the engine simply will not start. In the future, you will have to go to the service station, spend money on diagnostics and repairs. To prevent this, act proactively and replace defective elements in a timely manner.
So, one of the most important components is the ignition coil. It is to its features, main malfunctions, diagnostics and replacement rules that we will devote the article.

Purpose and symptoms of a malfunction

The main function of the ignition coil is to convert the onboard voltage (12V) to a higher voltage (15-24 thousand volts) and supply it to the spark plugs to ignite the fuel mixture in the engine cylinders. If the ignition coil fails, it will not spark and the engine will simply not start. Your task is to monitor the health of this node and make a timely replacement.

You can recognize the appearance of problems with the coil by a number of signs:

The engine “troits” from time to time (that is, a spark does not appear on one of the candles to ignite the fuel mixture). If nothing is done, then such "failures" occur more and more often;

A strong pressure on the gas pedal does not lead to an increase, but, on the contrary, a failure in speed. The engine, as it were, begins to “choke”;

In vehicles with an ECU, the “check engine” malfunction lamp lights up on the control panel. But here it is possible to establish the exact cause of the indicator operation only after diagnostics and reading the code;

During rain, the engine starts to “troit” even more (in dry and sunny weather, this problem may not manifest itself);

- "triple" manifests itself at the plant on a cold one. After the engine warms up and the temperature reaches the nominal level, the problem often disappears.

Reasons for failure

The ignition coil is a collective "player". In many ways, its condition depends on the conditions in which it works, the health of other elements of the system and other factors. So, there are several reasons for the breakdown of the node:

Cheap spark plugs of poor quality. Many car enthusiasts who save on their cars face even greater costs sooner or later. This is what happens here as well. A breakdown of the insulator or the passage of gases “into the return” from the engine can lead to the failure of the coil, which inevitably destroys the rubber parts of the assembly;

Ignition coils are afraid of overheating and often fail for this very reason. As practice shows, if the motor is constantly overheated (for any of the reasons), then the coil will not live long. Manufacturers claim that the device has its own allowable number of heating and cooling cycles;

Natural wear. Like any other element of the system, the ignition coil can wear out. In most cases, manufacturers recommend changing the coil every 50-70 thousand kilometers.

Why can't the problem be ignored?

However, remember that riding with a bad coil can lead to a number of problems:

An increase in fuel consumption caused by a decrease in efficiency and engine power;
- rapid wear of engine mounts. It's easy to explain. With a faulty ignition coil, the engine often troits, which leads to strong vibrations. As a result, even the most reliable pillows will "break";
- melting of the catalytic converter;
- inability to start the car.

Diagnostic methods

If a malfunction is detected, the replacement of the ignition coil is mandatory. But for this you must be sure of your "diagnosis". There are several ways here:

1. One of the main symptoms of a malfunction is overheating of the ignition coil.
2. Remove the high voltage wire from the distributor cap and bring it to the vehicle mass at a distance of 5-7 millimeters. If the coil is in good condition, a powerful blue spark will appear when the crankshaft is turned by the starter. If there is no spark or it is very weak, then the coil must be changed.

3. At the service station, diagnostics of ignition coils is performed using special motor testers (but an ordinary motorist is unlikely to find such equipment in the garage).

Replacement Features

As practice shows, in the absence of a spark, repair of the ignition coil is useless. So head to the store, buy a new device, and get ready to go. You don’t need to spend money on service stations - all manipulations will take you a maximum of 20-30 minutes. We will consider the replacement of the node using the example of the VAZ-2108 (2109). We act in the following sequence:

1. Prepare a new ignition coil and several keys (most often enough for "8" and "10"). WD-40 may also be useful.
2. Disconnect the "minus" from the battery (this is a prerequisite).

3. Remove the wire from the ignition coil that goes to the central part of the distributor cover.
4. Remove the two nuts holding the wires on top of the coil. If they are completely rusted from inactivity, treat with WD-40 and let sit for a few minutes.
5. Be sure to mark the removed wires and sketch their location on the ignition coil so as not to be mistaken during the reassembly process.
6. The coil is attached to the car body with two nuts. Unscrew each of them a little (but do not unscrew completely). Moreover, access to the second nut from the side of the battery is very difficult.

7. Move the coil a little to the side and remove it from its "familiar" place.

8. Install a new node, assemble and connect everything in reverse order. Work completed.
In the case of self-installation, you spend money only on the purchase of an ignition coil, which can cost from 300 rubles and more. A lot depends on the make and model of your car.

Conclusion

Replacing the ignition coil is a matter of 20-30 minutes. Therefore, there is no need to overpay money to the master at the service station. The main thing is to diagnose the malfunction in a timely manner, choose a quality replacement and install it. How to do it right, you now know. Good luck.

The ignition system of any modern car consists of many different components designed to ensure the normal start of the internal combustion engine. One of these devices is the VAZ 2109 ignition coil. You can learn more about the features of this device on the “nines”, as well as its malfunctions and diagnostics from this material.

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Features of the ignition coil device

Regardless of which engine your VAZ 21099 is equipped with - an injector with nozzles or a carburetor - the purpose of the short circuit is the same. The ignition coil VAZ 2109 is designed to obtain a good spark on the electrodes of the candles, which is necessary to ignite the combustible mixture. A short circuit on the injector or carburetor allows you to generate high-voltage pulses that provide a high-quality discharge between the electrodes. In simple words, this is a transformer that operates in a pulsed mode from which it allows you to convert a 12-volt voltage into 20-30 thousand volts.

To ensure the ignition of a combustible mixture, high voltages (wires) are used to transmit the impulse. The principle of operation of the system as a whole is quite simple - after turning the key in the ignition switch, the distributor receives a pulse and transmits it to a short circuit, where it is converted. After that, the interrupter distributes the spark in accordance with the technical regulations - to certain cylinders. As for the short circuit design, it is on the VAZ 2109 carburetor or injector, its circuit is quite simple - it consists of primary and secondary windings that are wound on a magnetic circuit.

The primary winding is wound from a thicker wire with fewer turns, and the secondary has a larger number of turns, but less thick wire. A high-voltage pulse appears as a result of electromagnetic induction and charge accumulation, and it is transmitted during the shutdown of the primary. After its transmission, the air-fuel mixture ignites, which helps to start the engine (the author of the video is the Auto Electrician VCh channel).

How to check the ignition coil?

Before using an injector or carburetor in the VAZ 21099, it is necessary to prepare a tester (multimeter) and disconnect the battery from the power supply. Checking the inclusion of the device, its connection and connection can be carried out without dismantling the short circuit.

Diagnostics of the short circuit performance on the 21099 injector includes the following steps:

1. First you need to disconnect the high-voltage wires that go to the short circuit terminals. To do this, use an 8 wrench and unscrew the nuts securing the cables to terminals K and B. Before disconnecting the wires, you must remember their position; in no case should you confuse them during further installation!
2. Next, the ignition coil is directly checked, in particular, the primary winding. To do this, connect one test lead to pin B and the other to pin K on the primary. Having done this, you can activate the multimeter in the ohmmeter mode. If the primary is working, then the resistance level as a result of the diagnosis should be about 0.4-0.5 ohms.
3. The next step will be the diagnosis of the secondary structural element, this will also require a multimeter. To check the health of this component, you need to connect one output of the multimeter to the output B of the short circuit, and the second to the connector for the high-voltage cable. At this stage, it is also necessary to check the resistance. If the secondary is serviceable, then the resistance parameter as a result of diagnostics should be 4.5-5.5 kOhm.
4. The final step in the test will be to diagnose the health of the insulation, that is, you will look for a possible short circuit that could occur in the system. To check for a short circuit, one terminal of the multimeter should be connected to connector B of the device, and the second to ground. Alternatively, a short circuit housing can be used. If everything is working correctly, then the resistance parameter should be high enough - within 50 mΩ. In the event that this value is very different, then there is still a closure. Please note that if at least one of the stages showed a breakdown in the operation of the device, then it must either be repaired or replaced. If the checked unit is working normally, but there are still problems in the operation of the ignition system, then it is necessary to check the high-voltage wires, candles, distributor.

Typical node malfunctions and methods for their elimination

In what cases it may be necessary to replace the mechanism:

1. If there was a short circuit in his work. In particular, we are talking about the closure between the turns of one of the windings.
2. If a gap appears in the electrical circuit of the secondary and primary. Finding it can be problematic, usually with such a problem, experts recommend completely changing the short circuit.
3. Also, one of the typical malfunctions for domestic "nines" is an insulating breakdown of the secondary to ground, that is, a short-circuit housing.
4. The presence of defects in the body and cover of the device. If the short circuit can still work with damage on the case, but not in all cases, then in the case of the cover it will need to be changed.
5. Leakage of grease on the cover of the short circuit.
6. Also, the replacement of a short circuit can be facilitated by incorrect values ​​​​of the measuring tester when measuring resistance parameters in the primary or secondary.