Preparing for winter comes down to a few simple manipulations that are easy to remember and even easier to perform.

Bookshelves are littered with numerous brochures with a wide variety of tips for novice motorists. You are offered to perform a lot of various manipulations with your car - from checking brake pads, spark plugs, electrical wiring to quality anti-corrosion coating etc. Sometimes these tips are so hard to follow that it seems easier to buy a new car.

Our main advice: don't be afraid of winter! Here are five simple tips. This is the alphabet. Without her, nowhere.

Don't skimp on tires

Replacing summer tires with winter ones is an axiom. Do not listen to the "experts" who talk about the fact that the asphalt in the city is already being cleaned so that the winters have gone warm, and the thorns slide on wet road. These experts will not treat you in the event of an accident and will not give you money for repairs.

The first snow has already fallen in most of Russia. But melted. After the first snow for two weeks (in central Russia), you can still ride summer tires. And they should be changed when the thermometer has steadily dropped below + 4 degrees.

The secret is the following. summer tire- hard. From persistent cold, it becomes even tougher. Consequently, its properties to keep the road in the cold are sharply (very sharply!) Decreased. She, figuratively speaking, "dubeet".

Winter is the opposite. Steady positive temperatures and friction on the road make it "squishy". Rolling resistance increases sharply, gasoline consumption - respectively.

Why is studded winter tires more convenient for car enthusiasts, especially beginners, than just winter and non-studded tires? The answer is simple: no matter how well the roads are cleaned now, on turns, on bridges, and simply on a road open to all winds, tongues (tongues) of ice can form. And here the spikes will serve as help. The first such case will push into the past all the debate about whether they slip on wet roads or not.

Do not think whether you have miscalculated or not miscalculated with the time of changing shoes, do not look at your new tires - how many spikes have already been lost, they say. In addition to unnecessary doubts and nerves, this will not give anything.

How to deal with oil

The average car enthusiast, winding 10-15 thousand kilometers a year, changes the engine oil together with the filter twice: on the eve of summer and on the eve of winter.

How not to get lost in oil markings?

Let's see what it says, for example, SAE designation 10W-40 for motor oils.

The designation of the viscosity grade "W" gives us information about winter application oils (W is the initial letter English word WINTER - winter).

The smaller the number before the letter W (in this case is the number 10), the lower the viscosity of the oil at low temperatures. This factor makes it easier cold start engine. Oil spreads through the engine faster, preventing wear.

The number after the letter W indicates the ability of the oil to provide reliable lubrication engine at high temperatures. The larger the number (in this case, 40), the greater the viscosity of the oil at high temperature and the more reliable the lubrication of the engine in the summer heat.

The presence of only one of the considered parameters in the designation of the viscosity class indicates the seasonality of the oil (for example: SAE 10W - winter seasonal oil, SAE 40 - summer seasonal oil). The presence in the designation of two classes at once (as in our example - SAE 10W-40) indicates that the oil is all-weather.

Reliable battery

Too frugal car enthusiasts do not like to buy new battery. The usual picture - on a winter evening, no, no, yes, and another thrifty one will pass by, puffing under the weight of the battery removed for the night. At home, he will put it on nightly exercises, drag it back in the morning - and, burning his fingers with frost, will connect the terminals.

For ordinary car owners, especially women, this procedure is overwhelming. Therefore, think about what will eventually cost less: daily carrying the battery, buying a charger, the danger of not getting far from home than buying a normal battery.

Strain your memory and remember how many years you have not changed the battery? If the service life has reached four years - do not be stingy and go to the store.

In order not to get confused in the questions that the seller will ask you, take the vehicle registration certificate to the store (you keep it next to the rights). It contains all the necessary data for the seller.

Tinker Day

On winter road the danger is not only those who continue to stubbornly drive on summer tires, but also those who did not have time to adapt to new road conditions. Especially those who got the rights in the summer and this is his first winter. "Teapot" by inertia will drive the car as usual. He doesn't know any other.

Remember: when high speed on slippery road the most sophisticated studded tire will not save either.

Try to make time for a simple workout.

On a clear, cold day, find a flat area covered with crust or ice. Try to accelerate a little and sharply, "to the floor", slow down. A few of these exercises will help you feel the reaction of the car and understand why (especially in winter!) You can’t slow down at speed with the clutch depressed, enter a turn with the clutch depressed, or roll up to an intersection in neutral gear.

The best thing: at the first black ice, do not go out into the streets for at least two days. Let other road users get used to the ice. Because the first days of winter sleet on the roads are the real opening of the season. Simply put, "tinker's day".

Of course, you remember this, but ...

Gasoline and cold

• If your vehicle's owner's manual allows you to use gasoline with octane rating below 98, do not refuel at severe frosts 98th gasoline. Otherwise, it will be more difficult to start the car.
• If there is a need in severe frosts to drive the car for the night or several nights in a heated garage, fill the gas tank to capacity. The more air in the tank, the more water vapor in it. Ice microcrystals settle in the fuel, accumulate with all sorts of muck at the bottom, and then "destroy" the fuel pump.
• Replace fabric rugs in the cabin on rubber.
• In cold weather, warm up the engine before every ride.
• To in winter time reduce the load on the battery, before turning the ignition key, turn on for 10 seconds high beam.
• Check your wipers before driving. If frozen, carefully separate them from the glass.

What should be in the "winter" trunk?

• Ordinary broom. They are much more convenient and faster than modern expensive brushes to sweep snow from the car. It is cheaper and more practical.
• Special wires will not interfere in order to "light up" from someone else's battery if necessary (if your battery is already close to the "critical" age).
• A couple of old rubber mats. They will help to start off on full ice, if you put them under the slipping wheels.
• If you have to go out of town, "in the snow" - a sapper shovel (I generally carry a shovel with a shortened handle) - this is a sure lifesaver.
• Tow rope(however, it is better to "prescribe" it in the trunk forever).

RAMC specialists shared their "winter" secrets. For some, these are common truths, but for someone, especially novice motorists, it may come in handy. So in order.

How to extend tire life in cold weather? First of all, you need to monitor the pressure. Low wears out the lateral parts of the tread, high - central part wheel tread. Choose a smooth driving style, avoiding hard braking. Be sure to check the wheel balance when changing tires seasonally.

Dead battery is one of the common problems that drivers face in winter. Due to frost, the battery works with an increased load, and it requires a large current and more a long period engine start. Because of this, it fails faster, so before the onset of cold weather, it should be fully charged. But if, nevertheless, it happened that the battery is dead, and you need to go, you can use next tip. Before starting the engine, turn on the headlights for a few seconds to "wake up" the battery. A chemical process will begin in the battery banks, and the electrolyte will warm up a little. If the car does not start the first time, wait 1-2 minutes and repeat the procedure. Depress the clutch pedal when starting the engine. This will make it easier for the starter to start the engine.

With frozen locks doors will help to cope with a special defroster or special grease(WD-40) combined with lithium grease. Make it a rule after a long drive in the cold to always cool the car by opening all the doors for a few minutes so that the air temperature in the cabin is equal to the ambient temperature. This simple procedure will help prevent freezing of rubber door seals. And to from low temperatures they are not cracked, do not forget to lubricate the rubber bands with silicone grease.

Motorists using diesel fuel , they know that it is in the cold thickens. Help to deal with it special agent- . It will not allow the fuel to freeze. Before you go to the gas station, add it to the tank and the problem will be solved. But at gasoline its subtleties in operation. Condensation can accumulate in the gas tank, which, in turn, does not have a very good effect on the operation of the engine and fuel system. To avoid this, a dehumidifier will help, which must be periodically added before refueling.

icy do not rush to tear off the glass. This can damage the rubber brush. Use special glass gel or wait until Windshield warm up. Then it will be easier to clear the ice. By the way, in no case do not try to turn on the frozen wipers. The motor that drives them can fail.

If with the advent of cold weather nozzles and windshield washer motor stopped working, most likely, you simply forgot to fill the windshield washer tank in time instead of water with “anti-freeze” or you got a poor-quality one and froze. Most the best remedy melt the ice - put the car in a warm parking lot for a couple of hours. Vodka or alcohol will also work well with ice. But before pouring them into the washer reservoir, it is better to warm it up a little. Then the defrosting process will go faster.

IN winter time it is advisable not to put the car on the handbrake ( parking brake). Otherwise, you risk getting frozen to rear discs brake pads . Although it is not difficult to solve such a problem. For example, douse the pads with alcohol-containing liquid. But this advice is acceptable only on the condition that the car disc brakes installed at the back. At drum brakes these recommendations do not work because the sticking area on the drum is too large. In no case should you try to break the pads with the help of towing: there is a possibility of damaging the elements of the brake system.

A rather simple accessory that would be nice to have in the trunk of every car. On city streets, it is unlikely to come in handy, but on a trip out of town it can be most welcome. Chains significantly increase the car's off-road patency, reduce skidding on a slippery road at low speeds, and help to get out of snowdrifts. Rubber tires are softer, wear tires less and allow you to move at speeds up to 80 km / h. They very well save from snow porridge and ice on the road. But in difficult places, metal ones will help. But they are tougher, “eat up” rubber and limit the speed of a car to 20–40 km/h.

Anti-corrosion treatment of the body - good rust remover. In winter, roads are sprinkled with chemicals, which, getting into the microcracks of the body, corrode parts and paint. Therefore, do not be lazy and carry out a special treatment of the car before winter.

By the way, quite recently, Za Rulem.RF conducted a survey on how our readers prepare their car for winter. The most common answer was "I'm changing the wheels and washer for winter ones."

In the article "Useful tips for motorists in winter" we will give you helpful tips driving in winter. The onset of frost in winter is always sudden. But this winter is not the first for motorists in their lives, and we offer you ten people's tips.

1. Do not wash

You better refrain from washing your iron friend, because sharp drops temperatures can kill the finish of the machine, it can dull its polish. If you are so unbearable to wash the car, then you need to treat the window seals and door locks, gas tank lock and cork with silicone sprays. After washing, do not regret and treat your car with hot wax. Thanks to the wax, the coating of the car will not suffer, and you can wash it much less often. After leaving the car wash, you need to slow down hard so that the pads of your car do not freeze. At night, it is advisable to put the car in gear, and not on the "handbrake".

2. Carry a suitcase

When there is a sudden change in temperature, the door locks do not open. And many before the onset of winter buy spray cans that help break the nut that does not open and help thaw the lock. With the help of this can, they spray it once, and then they throw it into the trunk, and there it is of no use, and it is still difficult to get to it. Therefore, you need to carry it with you, as you need to wear work gloves, so that everything is warm and close by and have a key for 10 to the battery terminals.

Doubtful of course it turns out comfort, but nothing can be done. You need to have a set of fuses, a wiper brush in stock. Of course, you don’t have to carry it with you, just like the wires for “lighting up”. In the trunk, they will not be superfluous. You can open the lock without a can, for this you need a lighter or matches on fire, heat the key and turn it carefully.

3. Do not start immediately

It is not recommended to start a car in severe frost. The main reason that the engine fails in cold weather is the battery, which has "sat down". Before you start it, you need to “cheer up” the battery a little and make it easy. To turn on dashboard and electrical appliances, you need to turn the ignition key to the first position. Then blink high beam about 10 or 15 seconds. After that, the electrolyte in the battery will warm up and its capacity will increase. In such a short time you will not be able to plant it. Then you need to turn off the headlights and start the engine.

4. Warmth from evil frosts

In Siberia, one could observe such a picture, the frost was 30 degrees, the drivers stood in line for the transformer, the guard transported the cigarette lighter from car to car on a sled, collecting money. The lady brought home a light and flat heater, plugged it in, put it under the hood of the Toyota and ran to the store. She came back 15 minutes later and the car started right up. But women also have a hair dryer in their arsenal.

5. More gasoline

There should always be more than half of the gasoline in the tank. It should not be forgotten that the more air is contained in the tank, the more water vapor it contains. Water vapor crystallization occurs, then microcrystals settle in the fuel, they accumulate at the bottom and clog fuel system and fuel pump. There is no need to wait for the fuel quantity indicator light to come on. When the arrow shows that there is half the fuel in the tank, turn to the Gas Station.

6. Check the pressure

Due to large temperature differences, tire pressure changes noticeably. This can affect the grip of the wheels with the road, which is especially evident in the snow, and on slippery surfaces. And therefore, with temperature changes and in severe frosts, you need to without fail check tire pressure.

7. Glasses will not fog up if

When you come to the parking lot, in severe frost, you need to lubricate the windows with a special ointment, which consists of 2 parts of glycerin and one part of a strong solution of table salt. This mixture must be applied just before leaving, because it protects the glass from frost for two or 3 hours.

Windows can be prevented from fogging up with a saturated solution of table salt, for which you need to take two tablespoons to 1 glass of water. With this solution, you can quickly clean frozen windows. Wipe the glass with this solution until the ice and frost are gone, and then you need to wipe the glass with a dry, soft cloth. Or you can take wet salt, wrap it in gauze and then the car windows will not fog up.

8. Mudguards are needed in winter

Mud flaps are needed not only in the warm season, and not only for passing technical inspection. The best option it will be if the mudguards are made of elastic material so that heavy ice can be thrown off light blow legs. It is important that the front wheels do not throw all this vile slurry on the thresholds, because the ice under the front doors significantly hits bumps on the road.

9. To the hypermarket

Large hypermarkets have warm parking lots. They are a real find for those drivers who save on minor repairs and who do not have a garage. Knock down ice from under wheel arches and from the roof, wipe the headlights and windows, pump up the wheels, thaw the fluid frozen in the washer reservoir. You just go there, put it on, go to the hypermarket for shopping, and when you return, then you pick it up warm. Some manage to bring to the parking lot a car that refused to start. And in the parking lot, it will already thaw and, of course, it will start.

10. Do not cover with a tarp

There are motorists who drive on weekends and thus take care of their car. They try to cover their car in the yard with a tarpaulin awning. But this cannot be done. Because you have to tear off the frozen awning to the metal, you will have to tear it off “with meat”. This frugality can lead to the fact that in places of freezing paintwork will have to be restored.

Now we know about useful tips for motorists in winter. Knowing these tips and applying them in practice, you can save your car in the winter season.

Every car owner understands that it is necessary to take care of your car, and car operation in winter- This is a special topic for conversation. It's no secret that it is in winter that the car is exposed to the most powerful effects of various harmful factors.

You can prepare for some of them in advance by carrying out a set of measures to prepare the car for the winter season, but that's not all. You can take care of yourself and your iron friend additionally, in order, as they say, to be fully armed ...

Firstly, it is possible that in winter there will be snow on the street :), which can be an unpleasant phenomenon for car owners. Especially for those who store the car outdoors and those who drive on poorly cleaned roads (in Russia this means almost everyone). To clean the car from snow, if it fell asleep overnight, store it in the trunk a good brush. It is more convenient to work with a brush with a short handle. It is lighter and moves faster. But if you are short or the car is very high (a jeep, for example), then it is likely that you will have to purchase a brush with an elongated or even telescopic handle.

It is also worth paying attention to the pile of the brush. It should not be very long and hard. Otherwise, the brush will not clean melted (heavy snow) well.

You can get stuck in a car in winter not only somewhere on a country road. It is also possible in the yard, where snow is not cleared well or where public utilities have not yet had time to arrive. In order to get out of the snow trap on your own, it is good to have a small shovel in the trunk. It can be especially useful for owners of mono-drive machines with automatic transmission gears. But for everyone else, such a tool will not hurt. Suddenly, someone will have to dig up :). Well, anything happens on the road. Can it happen that none of the drivers will have a cable? Maybe. But it's better that he was. So make sure you have it in your trunk. In winter, it is required more often than in summer, although it should always be.

But that's not all the trouble that snow brings. Winters are not very cold. Frequent thaws contribute to the formation of slush on the road, which flies from oncoming and passing cars into the windshield, onto the headlights, which greatly complicates visibility. And this is already fraught with increased emergency danger. To reduce the risk of an accident in winter, it is imperative to check the presence of windshield washer fluid in the reservoir as often as possible. And keep a supply of washer in the trunk so as not to get into an unpleasant and dangerous situation.

In addition, it is highly recommended to use specialized winter wipers. They differ from summer ones not only in that the mechanism is closed in a special rubber casing, but also in the composition of the wiper rubber, which makes it possible to better clean the glass. In addition, it is necessary to clean the wipers as often as possible from dirt, which, if accumulated, can make the wipers completely unusable.

Before boarding the cabin, everyone cleans the soles of their shoes, but this is not enough if the floor mats are velor. Snow, penetrating into velor, melts, and then can freeze. As a result, ice forms under the foot, which interferes with the control of the car. The foot may slip off the pedals, which in some situations can lead to an accident. Using rubber mats does not always save the situation. Rubber can slip too. Here everyone comes up with their own ways to deal with moisture. Textile rugs can be treated with various moisture-repellent compounds, and on rubber mats add newspaper or special sheets that are sold in automotive stores. Although, all this is not very convenient, and does not save 100%.

Also in the winter season, with inveterate stability, rather large temperature drops are observed, which is why you need to monitor the pressure in the wheels, as they can slightly lower. If funds allow, it is better to install tire pressure sensors, then you do not have to jump around the car with a pressure gauge and twist the caps.

Most drivers wash their cars on their own, and the main thing to remember here is that in the winter season, water can simply freeze in the most unwanted places on the body of your car. Actually, that is why, after you have removed all the dirty water, you will need to thoroughly wipe all the sealing rubbers on the doors (including the trunk) and blow out the locks that are located outside the car with air. By the way, it is useful to treat locks with WD40, which in many cases will prevent them from freezing. If the locks are still frozen, then you can unfreeze them special liquid defroster, which can be bought at any car shop. Heating the key is not recommended. This can be done on our classics, but it is better not to heat the keys of foreign cars with built-in chips. You can stay without a key.

It happens in winter and this situation: the doors opened perfectly in the morning, the car started up without problems, we turn on the speed, we put pressure on the gas, and the car stalls instead of starting off. Well, or just not going, if the driver is a little more experienced and did not let the engine stall. The problem here is that the day before the driver, by inertia, put the car on the handbrake. And at night the frost hit, and the brake pads froze to the brake disc.

In winter, it is better to leave the car at speed for mechanical box gears. For cars with an automatic transmission - in the "parking" mode. If you are afraid that the car may roll away, then put something under the wheel. Just don't forget to remove it later :).

For reliable and stable operation batteries should be recharged charger once every two months. If this is not done, then the battery will simply begin to lose its resistance to changing weather conditions.

Also, do not forget to systematically turn on the air conditioner for at least 10-15 minutes throughout the winter, if it is available in your car, of course. This must be done in order to rubber seals not depressurized. This procedure should be carried out 3-4 times a month, and preferably more often.

And all motorists, without exception, are at war with salt and other reagents that are poured onto the roads to prevent the formation of icing. When preparing the vehicle for winter season We processed it with various special tools. The body was covered with wax, and the bottom with anti-corrosion. But all this will bring little use if the car is not protected from prolonged exposure to aggressive substances. And for this it is enough to wash it more often.

We hope that our simple tips for operating a car in winter will help you cope with most unforeseen situations.

The topic of winter is very common among motorists - any battery is sensitive to ambient temperature.

With prolonged use of the battery in frosty conditions, it can, forcing the driver to look for non-standard ways to start the engine. In the worst cases, the battery fails, resulting in high vehicle repair costs.

Therefore, every driver should know how to prepare the battery for the winter, so as not to face very serious troubles later. This applies to how winter operation battery and its storage when not in use.

Winter operation

The main rule for using a battery in severe frosts is the serviceability of the car's electrical system. Before the onset of cold weather, be sure to check the integrity of the wiring - in particular, you will be interested in the wires laid between the generator, battery and starter.

However, breakdowns in other places cannot be ignored, since even a slight leakage of electricity can lead to a complete discharge of the battery in winter period. Also, caring for a battery in winter includes periodically cleaning the terminals from oxides and dirt accumulated on them. They should be treated with fine-grained sandpaper, and then covered with a thin layer of lithol or other grease conducting electricity.

Close attention should be paid to the generator - the output voltage should be measured to determine the possibility of its operation in winter. normal voltage current generated car generator, should reach 14.5 V, although the minimum possible level considered 13.8 V.

Video on how to measure the voltage on the generator:

If this indicator is lower, you should expect damage to the battery, and at a lower value, the battery simply cannot. Check the tension of the alternator belt as well, as its slippage can cause insufficient charging in winter. Finally, take a look appearance node - traces of overheating, manifested in the form of spots on the metal, indicate that the generator will soon require serious repairs.

You also need to check if the battery meets regulatory requirements. Many motorists ask, what should be the density in the battery in winter? Experts say that the norm for any climatic conditions is an indicator of 1.27, although in summer small deviations from it downwards are allowed.

Table of electrolyte density, depending on the ambient temperature

If the results of your measurement show a slightly lower density, you should add electrolyte, recharge the battery, and then perform re-check after a few days of intensive use of the car. If it is impossible to restore the standard indicators of the battery, it will have to be replaced.

In some cases, preparing the battery for winter involves its thermal insulation - this method is used if the temperature can drop below -40 degrees. Use only non-combustible material that does not conduct current and will not cause a short circuit.

The best option is fiberglass, formed in the form of thin mats - it can be used to make an additional shell that protects the battery from the influence of temperature fluctuations. It is necessary to ensure that the battery terminals remain open and are available for monitoring or maintenance at any moment.

If it was possible in the battery for the winter, it is necessary to use a sparing mode of operation of the car's on-board electrical network in the future. Immediately after starting, try not to turn on any devices to reduce the load on the battery.

Turn on electrical consumers, after warming up the engine

Even if the weather does not contribute to a comfortable stay in the car, try not to turn on the heater fan, heating rear window and other devices in the first 3-5 minutes. To quickly warm up the engine and interior, set heater And preheater, which will help to cope with a similar task without creating a significant burden on electrical system car.

Choosing a battery for the winter

If you cannot restore your battery by any means, you will have to go to an auto shop for a new battery. First of all, pay attention to the climatic class of the battery, which is indicated by the manufacturer in the form of a range of permissible temperatures.

Do not be tempted by the names "Arctic" and the inscriptions "Arctic" - there are no regulations required to apply them to the battery, so they do not have a strictly defined meaning. If the temperature in your area falls below the allowable for a particular battery, be sure that it will cause a lot of problems when driving in the winter.

In order to properly winterize your battery, you will need to perform quite a few steps - but only if you opt for a serviceable model.

The best option for winter operation would be maintenance-free gel battery, since it will be enough to recharge it once: both for continuous operation and for storage.

The capacity of such a battery for a passenger car must exceed 60 Ah, if the car is in temperate climate, and 80 Ah for northern latitudes. The starting current of the battery must be at least 420 A according to the EN test standard or 250 A according to the DIN cycle.

Winter storage

If you do not plan to use the car in the cold season, a completely justified question arises - should I remove the battery for the winter? Maintenance free batteries with a one-piece body and small ventilation holes, they are almost not affected by the cold, so when stored in a garage, they can definitely be left in a car without the risk of irreparable damage.

However, serviced and low-maintenance batteries should be removed for the winter in order to store them in a warm room. If, in your climatic region, frosts with temperatures below -20 degrees continue for more than 4 weeks, the battery must be removed, regardless of its type. Otherwise, it will be enough just to unscrew the clamps of the positive terminal to fold it back.

Since the density of the battery should be the same in winter and summer, it is advisable to top up the battery with electrolyte, if possible, and recharge it before storage. If you bring the device home, you will need to leave it in a well-ventilated area.

The temperature in it should not be more than 25 degrees - that is why it is highly undesirable to leave the battery near the battery and various heating devices. The battery must be protected from liquid ingress - of course, you can not leave it in the bathroom. The best place for winter storage batteries in the apartment will be a closed balcony or loggia, and in a private house - a glazed terrace or veranda.

Proper storage of the battery in winter involves recharging it if necessary. To do this, every two weeks you need to connect it to an electronic charger using special program for gentle charge recovery at low currents.

However, most modern batteries keep their performance for a long time, provided that you store them in an upright position. Therefore, removing high-quality maintenance-free battery, you can recharge it only twice - at the beginning and end of the cold season.

After the end of the heat, you will need to monitor the performance of the battery for the first two weeks, since during this period the chances of its breakdown are greatest.

Battery Charging Video Tips:

If you don’t know if you need to charge the battery before winter, you can treat it with boric acid, which will allow you to put the battery in conservation without any hassle. First, you will need to completely fill the electrolyte into the jars, setting the required liquid level, and then fully charge the battery.

At the next stage, the electrolyte drains very slowly, after which the procedure is repeated twice. When the battery is washed from the inside, you can fill its cans with a five percent solution of boric acid in distilled water. In this form, the battery is stored until the end of the conservation period.

When you decide to use the car again, the boric acid must be drained very slowly, and then immediately fill the jars with electrolyte without performing additional flushing. It remains only to wait about an hour and a half and check the battery parameters, which will allow you to set the density level and residual charge.

If necessary, the battery should be charged and then installed in the vehicle for normal use. If you are going to store the battery away from the car during the winter, you will also need to follow these guidelines:

• If you need to recharge the battery, use commercially prepared electrolyte or distilled water. Ordinary tap water, even filtered water, and acid can destroy a battery;
• At high level humidity in the house, treat the battery terminals with lithol, and then cover with special caps or wrap them with oiled paper;
• Immediately after installing the battery in the car, follow the sparing mode of its operation - the car should work for about half an hour for idling, after which during the day try to use electrical appliances less;
• If the battery has lost some of its properties after conservation, try recharging it and recharging it. However the best way will go to a specialized service station, where the master will perform professional diagnostics battery;
• If there is sediment from the collapsing electrodes at the bottom of the jars, you should consider purchasing new battery in the near future.

electrical engineering

By following the above rules, you will protect your car battery from damage during the cold season. However, it is worth remembering that an initially faulty battery is unlikely to be able to overwinter, retaining all its properties - therefore, it is advisable to carry out its diagnostics at the service station at the beginning of autumn in order to have a margin of time.

Battery diagnostics at the service station

If you have purchased new car in the warm season, pay attention to the parameters of its battery - it is quite possible that it will be easier to replace it than to deal with numerous troubles in winter.

In addition, it is advisable to stock up on an electronic charger that can automatically determine the battery parameters and select the optimal recharging program. It will be very useful both during the winter operation of the battery, and when storing it at home.