Engine internal combustion, this is the heart of the car, without it it will be impossible to fulfill the main purpose of transport, movement and transportation over a certain distance.
One of the conditions for normal and long work power plant is the use quality fuel that meets all requirements. For internal combustion engines, different kinds fuels: liquid, gaseous. The most common gaseous fuels are liquefied gases, liquids are gasoline and diesel fuel.
Before answering the question: "What to add to gasoline to ruin the engine?" consider what gasoline is and how its influence can disable the power plant.
Gasoline, main properties
Powerplant gasoline is a light fuel containing hydrocarbons. To obtain fuel, oil is used, which is processed by thermal distillation. Visually, the liquid has no color, has a specific smell, its density is 0.70-0.76 g/cm 3 .
The main properties that affect the quality of gasoline during operation include:
- volatility;
- Heat of combustion;
- Detonation resistance.
- Evaporation of gasoline
It mainly depends on the fractional composition, determined by the oil distillation temperature of 10.50 to 90% of its volume. Good volatility is obtained if gasoline contains a large number of light ends obtained by distillation using a lower temperature.
- Heat of combustion
This is the quality of heat that was received (released) during complete combustion gasoline under normal conditions. Gasoline has a high calorific value, its value is approximately 44 MJ / kg.
- Knock resistance
The ability of gasoline to burn not only quickly, but also smoothly. When burned at an ultra-fast speed, an explosion is formed, this process is detonation. Normal combustion occurs at a speed of 20-40 m/s, while detonation is 2000 m/s or more.
At high detonation, the engine will emit metallic knock, emit a lot of smoke, while the power will be low, and the consumption working mixture, elevated.
Assessment of the knock resistance of gasoline is carried out by an indicator of the octane number. It is determined on a special stand, comparing the tested gasoline with a reference fuel. Detonation of gasoline is less, the higher its octane number. Often, in order to increase the octane number, special anti-knock additives are added to gasoline.
The influence of gasoline on the technical condition of the power plant
The wear of the power plant largely depends on the quality of the combustible mixture: fractional composition, octane number, tendency to form deposits, anti-corrosion properties and other characteristics that affect the combustion process. Fuel of low grades accelerates the failure of the engine by 1.5 - 2 times.
Components of a low-quality fuel mixture:
- Difficult evaporating fractions;
- High resin content;
- High sulfur content;
- Non-compliance of knock resistance with the brand of gasoline;
- Rich mixture (a lot of gasoline, little air);
- Lean mixture (too much air, not enough fuel).
- The fractional composition of gasoline depends on the distillation temperature:
- 10% evaporation: starting qualities of the fuel and the tendency to form vapor locks are determined;
- 50% evaporation (working fraction): characterizes the ability to work stably at low speeds, throttle response, warming up the unit;
- 90% evaporation (heavy fraction): affects the power, efficiency, durability of the power plant.
- A large number of resins leads to a weighting of the fractional composition.
Getting together with the fuel into the engine, the resins settle on the valves, combustion chamber, pistons, candles and form carbon deposits as a result of exposure to high temperatures. There is a hanging of the valves, the occurrence of early detonation and ignition in the cylinders, difficulty in supplying fuel. Normal resin content, 2-20 mg per 100 ml of fuel.
- Sulfur, its compounds, acid, alkali, water, affect the corrosive properties of gasoline.
Operation on fuel with great content sulfur leads to increased wear as a result of high carbon formation and a decrease in knock resistance.
- Knock resistance is increased by adding ethyl liquid (1-TC or P-9).
It contains a large amount of tetraethyl lead (58 or 54%). To remove lead from the engine, special additives are used that form volatile compounds with it and remove it with the exhaust gas. With prolonged storage of such gasoline, additives lose their ability, and lead enters the engine without subsequent withdrawal from it.
- rich and lean mixture leads to overheating of the power plant.
As a result, increased carbon deposits and severe engine wear.
Reasons for power plant failure
Being interested in the issue of early decommissioning of the motor, the question involuntarily arises: “Why is this necessary?”. There are many options, from harmless - simple curiosity, to quite serious - punishable, here are some of them:
- Disposal of the old power plant.
The old car can be handed over for recycling. So that dishonest service workers do not take advantage of their position and resell the power plant from your car to secondary market, you intend to completely ruin it. Thus, a damaged motor will be of no use to anyone and will calmly be melted down.
- Unit replacement under warranty.
Many owners of power plants, in order to prolong the pleasure of driving a new engine that does not require investments, can resort to various tricks. So, having reached a certain amount of mileage by the engine, quietly disable it and change it under warranty for a new one.
- Simple curiosity.
This method is suitable for negligent owners who are tormented by curiosity and the question "How to kill the engine?". Conducting an experiment and getting questionable results, that's their goal. Often, these are young people who thus assert themselves in the face of their peers.
- Conducting a scientific experiment.
As a rule, such experiments are carried out in factory laboratories. Their goal is to answer the question: “What user behavior will take the motor out of a stable, working state and make it unusable?”. It is the laboratory workers who think what can be poured, poured, where to press, etc.
- Evil intent.
If the question sounds in the context: “How to silently disable the car engine?”. Such a statement suggests malicious intent. Of course, there are situations in life when the inappropriate behavior of a motorist gives rise to a burning desire to make him a pedestrian, but we must not forget that any conflict requires a civilized solution and any issue can be resolved by a legal method.
Disabling methods
A car, and in particular an internal combustion engine, is a balanced, finely tuned mechanism that needs careful operation and maintenance. Sometimes a small mistake made at random can throw the mechanism off balance and send it to overhaul, or scrap.
It is much more difficult to achieve long-term and trouble-free operation of the unit than its complete failure.
However, if we are talking about damage to the installation, by adding certain substances to gasoline, the following can be advised:
- Pour low-quality fuel.
First of all, choose filling stations of unknown origin, avoid branded gas stations that import certified goods. When refueling, give preference to gasoline with low octane rating, ideally, if the number does not match the number required by your engine (for example, A-76 gasoline instead of AI-95).
- Refuel diesel instead of gasoline.
Gasoline and diesel fuels are different chemical composition, combustion characteristics, they have different impurities, viscosity, density, combustion temperature, etc. The principles of operation of power plants running on diesel and gasoline are also different. The ingress of solar Gas engine will lead to blockage fuel lines, will spoil the engine oil, the engine will simply stall, it will be necessary to carry out its complete cleaning, washing and repair.
- Aviation kerosene.
Due to the stronger detonation during combustion, kerosene will act on pistons, candles, and as a result will quickly disable these parts.
- Additives.
Illiterate use of additives can completely kill your unit. It is better to buy a miracle mixture at the bazaar, or gas stations. For example, the well-known octane corrector clogs the fuel supply, increases carbon deposits. Manganese additives have an excellent effect on catalytic converter. Tetraethyl lead, in large quantities, will definitely break the motor.
- White.
Applying this species"fuel" can cause corrosion of parts of the power plant. According to experts who reviewed this method, in a short time, all parts will soon become covered with rust. During operation, the motor will smoke heavily and often stall. Expensive and complex repair can't be avoided.
- Drying oil.
When it enters the tank, it dissolves in gasoline. At first, the installation will work as if nothing had happened, but after stopping and trying to start the engine again, a surprise awaits you. Drying oil, having gone along with gasoline all the way to the cylinders, burns out in the working chamber. After the engine stops, part of the drying oil settles on the valves and creates a glue effect. As a result, the valves will be bent, the belt will be broken and overhaul.
- Sugar or syrup.
Using this substance, you are guaranteed to clog pipes, nozzles and all fuel system generally. Troubleshooting will cause a lot of trouble and inconvenience.
- abrasive material.
Sand, polishing paste, carborundum, all of these substances are abrasive and will lead to rapid wear piston-cylinder group if you pour them into the gas tank of a car. Of course, the filter will delay some, but not all.
- Water, brine, acids, alkalis, solvents.
All these substances in one way or another affect the corrosive properties of gasoline. As a result, increased wear, decrease in detonation resistance, increased carbon formation and failure of the installation.
Destroying your power unit is not so difficult. It is not necessary to do this only by influencing it through fuel, there are many other ways.
If your goal is really to kill the motor, the main advice is to read the instructions and do everything that is written there, just the opposite.
Destruction of vehicles. During the fighting, for a saboteur-partisan, it is necessary to have knowledge of disabling equipment without using explosives. And there is less noise and you don’t have to spend supplies. A few tips. To disable any type of machine (motorcycle, car, truck, heavy equipment): 1. Jam the locks on the doors and ignition locks with wood chips, reliable glue such as "supercement" or seal them with raw rubber. 2. Pour sugar or pour syrup into fuel tanks or oil tanks are a waste of time. IN best case the filters will just clog. But pouring a handful or two of sand into a gas tank or oil is both easier and more reliable. Plus, you don't have to carry sugar or syrup that incriminates you. 3. Pour three or four liters of water or brine into the gas tank. 4. Pour dirt, earth, sand, salt or any other abrasive into oil neck. If a filter is installed there (which is often found on heavy machines), pour it all into the hole for oil dipstick, then use a feeler gauge to push into the crankcase. 5. Fill the oil neck with water. The amount of water depends on the size of the engine - for example, an eight-cylinder engine requires at least 2.5 liters of water. Here the trick is to ensure that there is enough water for the oil pump to pump only it. The water will keep the "oil" pressure gauge reading, but the engine will be dead. 6. Cut the sides of the tires. The cuts on the side of the tires cannot be patched securely, while the cuts on the tread are sealed without any problems. 7. Break the fuel pump, water pump, valve heads, carburetor, distributor, or anything other than the battery (this is dangerous for you). To make your hits accurate, use a sledgehammer and a steel bar. 8. Pour water and/or dirt into the air intake (the large opening is usually directly below the air cleaner). The bigger, the better. 9. Pour gasoline or other fuel into the oil reservoir. This will spoil the oil, and the oil filter will not help either. 10. Pour battery acid or any other acid into the radiator. 11. Pour carborundum or other abrasive powder (such as sand) into the gearbox. HEAVY EQUIPMENT. It is necessary to carry out sabotage to disable machines at night, having carried out reconnaissance in advance and drawing up a plan, armed with pocket flashlights. Carry a light fabric bag for tools (nylon can make noise), flat shoes (so as not to leave distinctive marks), woolen socks should be worn over the boots so as not to leave characteristic marks, and disposable cloth gloves will come in handy, which must be thrown away ( burn) after the action. The plastic can is ideal for carrying sand and plastic tube- for pouring syrup into the tank. For heavy machinery equipped with diesels: 1. Break the fuel injection nozzles with a sledgehammer and a steel bar. They are expensive, and besides, they are very difficult to take out if they are properly stuffed. 2. Pour earth, sand or abrasive powder into the gearbox and hydraulic oil reservoir. Do not damage the brake system! 3. Cut the hydraulic hoses and tubes with wire cutters. It is difficult to cut them with a knife, since most hoses are braided with steel "thread". 4. Break the connections and valves of the hydraulic system. If you encounter a car that runs on gasoline, fill the gas tank with diesel fuel. After this operation, the engine will work, but there will be serious problems with driving. ADVICE EXPERIENCED: How to disable an armored personnel carrier. I myself am a military man and I want to give advice to people who stop equipment with a human shield ... you can stand, lie in front of them, but this will not help, you will not be able to stop them if they really receive an order to break through, you will not be able to disable equipment, but you can harm them ... So: 1. If you come close to the vehicle, take a can of the most resistant paint and paint over the triplex (devices for driving, aiming, shooting, adjusting) This will blind the car ... try to snatch or break the antenna, so the machine will not be able to "talk and listen"! And you won't get far without communication! 2. Paint over one headlight on the car - it will work like the "Friend or Foe" system. If a car with one headlight is approaching a checkpoint or a strong point, then you can safely work to defeat! I saw a car with one headlight or a column - work to defeat first, otherwise they will destroy you! BASIC METHODS AND MEANS FOR DISABLED VEHICLES. 1. Disabling various parts, assemblies, systems and assemblies. Motor transport is the most mobile means of transportation and delivery of goods. Therefore, the violation of its normal functioning is one of the main tasks solved by saboteurs. Cars like any complex mechanisms, can be disabled in many ways: - exclusion of necessary engine parts that are quickly removed, in particular, distributor caps or battery ignitions; - blockage in the exhaust pipe; - unscrewing the kerm rod on a raised car; - violation of different sections of the fuel pipeline; - unscrewing the bolts to create vibration and loosen the fastening of parts in order to destroy the entire mechanism; - cutting the drive belt; - the establishment of a wrench in terms of mechanisms that move; - pouring (in winter) water into the radiator with the previous antifreeze drain (water freezes and the ice, expanding, breaks the cylinder block); - throwing the car to the side using a lift; - screwing caps and unscrewing nipples (for lowering wheels), - draining brake fluid from hydraulic system brakes; - unscrewing the wheel brake mechanism; - removing the roller from engagement with the worm of the kerm mechanism; - loosening (unscrewing) wheel nuts; - disabling the battery by switching its terminals with a wrench. It is clear that most of the damage can be easily repaired in a garage. Therefore, the saboteurs are trying to make sure that the breakdown takes place already on the way, far beyond the boundaries of the enterprise. To some extent, this can be facilitated by the failure of the sensors of the vehicle's malfunction warning system. 2. Special means of disabling cars. On given time there are a large number special means, which are designed to disable cars. These include, in particular, different designs of "hedgehogs" for piercing car tires. A feature of hedgehogs is that, when installed (thrown to the ground), they always have one spike directed vertically upwards. Another type of sabotage is the incapacitation car batteries using a special liquid composition. To disable one battery section, one drop of the composition is enough, for large sections - two drops. The battery is discharged in 4 hours or less. Sometimes sabotage is carried out, the consequences of which disable the car not immediately, but after a pre-calculated (fixed) some time after the start of movement or after a certain mileage. This option is used in the case of a predictable entrainment of the car on the required section of the road in order to master the load that is being transported or to entrain certain persons in the car. For such sabotage, specially designed tools are used. Some of them are pumped to the engine's oil lubrication system. The agent circulates in the lubrication system and melts all parts of the engine that move: bearings, pistons and, as a result, the cylinder block. Complete failure of the engine will take place approximately 30 minutes after its start. In addition to automobiles, this product can be used against aircraft engines, nimble boats, motorcycles and generally against any high-speed mechanisms that use oil lubrication. Other means disable the engine's fuel system. Among them are: - means that clog the fuel and filter and car radiator with the help of special fibers different sizes, which expand in the flow of gasoline. The engine will not stop immediately, but will gradually begin to feel a lack of fuel and will finally subside after about 1.5 km from the place of sabotage; - explosive explosive devices. The device contains a charge of explosive and incendiary substances (with different inflammation sometimes). When triggered, the device breaks a hole in the gas tank and ignites the fuel. 3. Forced stop of cars and other vehicles. Considered in the previous section, the methods of disabling cars with the help of special tools that damage various components and engine systems and force vehicle to stop, very roughly determine the distance that the car travels from the place of sabotage to a complete stop. And this place may be inconvenient for the operation. Therefore, such tools have a rather limited application in operations related to hobby. Much more often, methods are used in which to force a stop, external sources that obstruct the passage. One of these methods is pulling a strong cable across the road. For this purpose, saboteurs unwind the cable and attach it to trees or poles (if any) on both sides of the road. The cable (painted in the color of the road) is located at an angle (up to 45 °) to the direction of movement of the machine. After the contact of the car with a tightly stretched cable, the first one forcibly deviates from the rectilinear direction of movement and, moving along the cable, flies to the side of the road, where saboteurs are waiting for it. If the cable is pulled strictly perpendicular to the direction of movement of the car, then (with sufficient strength of the cable) the car can get significant damage which could damage the cargo. On the route of the vehicle, there may not be suitable places for attaching the cable. In this case, screw metal inventory anchors can be used (in dense soils), capable of withstanding a force of up to 10 tons. These anchors are screwed into the soil by one to four saboteurs using lever keys. The cable is installed on sections of the road with limited visibility: behind a turn, behind a sharp longitudinal bend of the road, so that the driver does not have time to react to an obstacle. The above method of stopping vehicles with a cable leads to varying degrees of damage to the vehicle and, possibly, the cargo. However, if the goal of the saboteurs is to entrain the cargo intact or further movement is planned in a seized car, then for this purpose a special network for entraining cars can be used, which is capable of capturing a car with a carrying capacity of up to 15 tons at speeds up to 80 km / h. The net is carried by two saboteurs and hung folded between two trees. As the car approaches the point of fascination, the net drops and straightens out, entangling it. The use of a special textile shock absorber limits the braking distance to a maximum of 35 meters. To stop the car, the hedgehogs mentioned above and tapes with spikes that pierce the tires of the vehicle can be used. A means that can make the car fly off the road is machine oil spilled on the roadway. When oil is spilled, an oil wedge forms under the wheels. In this case, the wheels "rise" on the oil cushion (wedge), the tires lose traction and the car becomes uncontrollable. To stop the car, another vehicle can be used to block the road. The blocking of the road is usually carried out for sharp turn. On straight sections they are sometimes staged car accident, block the roadway with an overturned car. In some cases, they provoke a collision.
An article about what can lead to irreparable damage to a car engine, and how this can be avoided - tips and tricks. At the end of the article - a video on how to kill a car engine.
The content of the article:
Each vehicle requires attention and care in order to please its owner for as long as possible with no problems. To a greater extent, the condition of the car is affected by its accurate operation, which directly affects the speed and level of wear of the chassis and engine.
Sometimes the car owner, without realizing it, makes banal but critical mistakes that affect the proper operation of the engine and bring its overhaul closer. Therefore, the driver must determine for himself the driving style and manner of dealing with an iron friend - whether he will operate it to the limit or listen to the manufacturer's recommendations for careful attitude.
1. Wear and tear
On average each modern car designed for mileage within 400 thousand kilometers. If the owner is not Fedor Konyukhov, then this reserve will be enough for an ordinary driver for many years of travel. This implies that the car will move at a speed of 60-80 km/h, periodically reaching 130-150 km/h.
Manufacturers also assume that drivers will adhere to high speed at 4 and 5 speeds, and they will pick up this speed at low revs. In operation calculations car engine all possible traffic situations were introduced, including traffic jams, road specifics, long and short stops, jerky movement and other driving features.
If you carefully study the instruction manual and take into account all the wishes of the manufacturer, you can exist in harmony with your car for a long time.
What will happen if you drive at low speeds, squeeze top speed and start from a place with tire smoke?
Driving at low speeds, which old-school drivers often sin, is often justified by good intentions - lower fuel consumption, reduced cabin noise and the illusion of increased engine life. But only if you need to increase the speed by sharply pressing the gas pedal while maintaining the current gear, or go down a step, you can provoke unpleasant processes.
In the first case the engine, which is already working under heavy load, is forced to literally drown in a significant wave of incoming fuel.
In the second case will abruptly switch from an emergency load mode to an optimal one. At the same time, those drivers whose cars are equipped with on-board computer, may see an increase in fuel consumption, even though they seem to be saving in low gear.
2. Crossing puddles
Children's love for crossing puddles remains with some adults, including motorists. But they forget that no one is safe from a disastrous water hammer, even if the obstacle outwardly seems insignificant.
The danger of the rapid passage of a full-flowing puddle is that the wall of water formed in front of the hood through air filter enters the engine, and the piston is unable to compress it.
The consequence will be a sharp stopper of the engine while receiving a large dose of kinetic energy that breaks the metal insides. And the higher the speed was at the moment of impact, the more damage the water will cause to the heart of the car. The connecting rod, cylinder head, drive belt, sensors, wiring may require repair and replacement due to a collision with such an obstacle.
Therefore, the speedy crossing of an ordinary, harmless-looking puddle with a spectacular spray fountain is the most the right way quickly kill the engine. Especially if the car's air intake system is located low and is able to draw water even with light rain.
You should not stop the car if it has already entered a puddle. Restarting the engine will almost certainly result in water hammer.
The operating instructions for any machine contain instructions on the timing of oil changes, which is usually recommended to be done at least once every 10-15 thousand km. Here are just some drivers, either out of carelessness, or in order to save money, or as part of the fight against intrusive marketers, stretch this period two or even three times.
An extra couple of thousand kilometers on old oil will not do much harm, but if the excess is 5 thousand or more, this will already seriously affect the engine.
Over time, the oil and its additives will lose their useful qualities, oxidize, lose their lubricating effect, causing the motor to run dry. This in turn will result in the following:
- excessive friction of parts, which will increase the load on all units and components;
- engine overheating due to oil losing its ability to remove heat;
- loss of anti-corrosion protection.
4. Use of additives
Recently, engine additives have become widespread. They are specially designed lubricating substances added to engine oil for a specific purpose - fuel-saving, cleaning, anti-friction, oil. Some of them enhance the properties engine oil, some are poured into an empty tank and save fuel consumption by a quarter, and some remove carbon deposits in the engine compartment.
Despite all their advantages, you should not abuse additives, much less change them often or use them all at the same time.
The presence of a mineral powder in the additive accelerates clogging of oil channels, an octane corrector contributes to clogging of the fuel supply system, and manganese destroys the catalytic converter very quickly.
5. Improper operation of the radiator
The cleanliness and well-being of the radiator directly affect the condition of the engine - the radiator takes on a powerful daily mud blow: insects that clog into the grate, fluff from trees, sand, chemicals, other road debris are gradually compressed into a dense layer and causes overheating of the motor.
Each car owner is able to independently check the level of contamination of the radiator. First, completely drain the antifreeze and evaluate its purity. If the liquid is of adequate color, has no rust or other sediment, then flushing the radiator is not required. If the antifreeze is not of the appropriate type, then the cooling system is filled with distilled water, the engine is started and left running for 15-20 minutes.
When draining water, it is again necessary to assess the level of its pollution, and then repeat this procedure so many times until the water runs clear.
You can speed up the process and make it more efficient with the help of simple improvised means - antiscale or caustic soda. It will take a very small amount of cleaning powder to achieve a result, but the abuse of it can just ruin the cooling system even more.
After washing the radiator, especially if a cleaning agent was used, the water must be completely drained, and then washed several more times with an absolutely clean liquid without any additives. If this is not done, then even the smallest residues of household chemicals can cause extensive corrosion in the radiator.
To prevent the formation of various kinds of precipitation, rust and scale, the above additives are used, which are added to antifreeze. They contain ethylene glycol, which has not only anti-corrosion properties, but also lubricating properties that prevent the formation of deposits.
Also, to protect the engine from overheating, the grille must be regularly cleaned with a metal brush, especially after trips out of town. At any car wash, you should additionally blow the radiator with compressed air.
Systematic cleaning of the radiator will help maintain the most important units in normal working condition, and, therefore, protect the engine from boiling over, and its owner from the cost of major repairs.
Conclusion
There are many ways to quickly and efficiently destroy own car, starting from a dismissive attitude towards him and ending with drunk driving.
When the owner has really good car, worth a lot of money, acquired for a long time, but simply does not know how to operate it correctly, this is unpleasant and even insulting. Therefore, the mere observance of the listed most elementary rules will extend the life of the engine not just for years, but for decades. And the motorist - to keep their financial resources intact, saving on major repairs.
1. Disabling various parts, assemblies, systems and assemblies
Motor transport is the most mobile means of transportation and delivery of goods. Therefore, the violation of its normal functioning is one of the main tasks solved by saboteurs. Cars, like any complex mechanisms, can be disabled in many ways:
Exclusion of necessary engine parts that are quickly removed, in particular, distributor caps or battery ignition;
Plugging in the exhaust pipe;
Unscrewing the kerm rod on a raised car;
Violation of different sections of the fuel pipeline;
Unscrewing bolts to create vibration and loosen the fastening of parts in order to destroy the entire mechanism;
Cutting the drive belt;
Setting a wrench in parts of the mechanisms that move;
Falling sugar into the gas tank (sugar crystallizing in the fuel line and carburetor, clogging them);
Pouring (in winter) into the radiator of water with a previous drain of antifreeze (water freezes and ice, expanding, breaks the cylinder block);
Throwing the car to the side using a lift;
Screwing caps and unscrewing nipples (for lowering wheels),
Draining brake fluid from the hydraulic brake system;
Unscrewing the wheel brake mechanism;
Disengagement of the roller from engagement with the worm of the kerm mechanism;
Loosening (unscrewing) wheel nuts;
Disabling the battery by switching its terminals for help
wrench, etc.
It is clear that most of the damage can be easily repaired in a garage. Therefore, the saboteurs are trying to make sure that the breakdown takes place already on the way, far beyond the boundaries of the enterprise. To some extent, this can be facilitated by the failure of the sensors of the vehicle's malfunction warning system.
Special means of disabling vehicles.
At this time, there are a large number of special tools that are designed to disable cars.
These include, in particular, different designs of "hedgehogs" for piercing car tires. A feature of hedgehogs is that, when installed (thrown to the ground), they always have one spike directed vertically upwards.
Disabling car batteries with the help of a special liquid composition is another type of sabotage. To disable one battery section, one drop of the composition is enough, for large sections - two drops. The battery is discharged in 4 hours or less.
Sometimes sabotage is carried out, the consequences of which disable the car not immediately, but after a pre-calculated (fixed) some time after the start of movement or after a certain mileage. This option is used in the case of a predictable entrainment of the car on the required section of the road in order to master the load that is being transported or to entrain certain persons in the car. For such sabotage, specially designed tools are used.
Some of them are pumped to the engine's oil lubrication system. The agent circulates in the lubrication system and melts all parts of the engine that move: bearings, pistons and, as a result, the cylinder block. Complete failure of the engine will take place approximately 30 minutes after its start. In addition to automobiles, this product can be used against aircraft engines, nimble boats, motorcycles and generally against any high-speed mechanisms that use oil lubrication.
Other means disable the engine's fuel system. Among them are:
Means that clog the fuel and filter and car radiator with special fibers of different sizes that expand in the flow of gasoline. The engine will not stop immediately, but will gradually begin to feel a lack of fuel and will finally subside after about 1.5 km from the place of sabotage;
Hot-explosive devices. The device contains a charge of explosive and incendiary substances (with different inflammation sometimes). When triggered, the device breaks a hole in the gas tank and ignites the fuel.
Forced stop of cars and other vehicles.
Considered in the previous section, the methods of disabling cars using special tools that damage various components and engine systems and force the vehicle to stop are very
approximately determine the distance that the car travels from the place of sabotage to a complete stop. And this place may be inconvenient for the operation. Therefore, such tools have a rather limited application in operations related to hobby.
Much more often, methods are used in which external sources are used to force a stop, which impede the passage.
One of these methods is pulling a strong cable across the road. For this purpose, saboteurs unwind the cable and attach it to trees or poles (if any) on both sides of the road. The cable (painted in the color of the road) is located at an angle (up to 45 °) to the direction of movement of the machine. After the contact of the car with a tightly stretched cable, the first one forcibly deviates from the rectilinear direction of movement and, moving along the cable, flies to the side of the road, where saboteurs are waiting for it. If the cable is pulled strictly perpendicular to the direction of movement of the car, then (with sufficient strength of the cable) the car can receive significant damage, which can lead to the death of passengers and damage to the cargo. On the route of the vehicle, there may not be suitable places for attaching the cable. In this case, screw metal inventory anchors can be used (in dense soils), capable of withstanding a force of up to 10 tons. These anchors are screwed into the soil by one to four saboteurs using lever keys. The cable is installed on sections of the road with limited visibility: behind a turn, behind a sharp longitudinal bend of the road, so that the driver does not have time to react to an obstacle.
In order to develop such an unusual topic, let's first define the motivations, why is this needed? What justification can there be for the intention to ruin the engine, without which no vehicle will budge.
Utilization of auto junk
Firstly, there is such a topic as recycling old cars. Employees of such services sometimes go for cunning maneuvers for good purposes. They purposefully kill diesel engine. The thing is, there is risk. Old cars on the move, even broken ones and awaiting their turn for recycling, can again enter the “auto junk” market. To prevent this, a way was invented to kill the engine, the main driving force of the car.
This is done in this way: after completely draining the oil from the engine, the so-called liquid glass(sodium silicate), then start the car and leave it for Idling, until the engine stalls on its own, then try to start it again.
The result will be only a broken motor. The whole process of "killing" takes anywhere from 3 to 7 minutes. Thanks to this, recycling employees quite legally send auto junk under the press for remelting.
Tricks of replacing the engine under warranty
Secondly, many car owners resort to various tricks to achieve a replacement diesel engine under factory warranty. Such motivation, even if a little dubious, still takes place. There are a number of ways to quietly break diesel unit. Basically, everything rests on a decrease in the oil level, which negatively affects the chassis and power parts.
The oil is slightly drained so that the oil level indicators on the panel begin to beep, this leads to "oil" starvation of the mechanical sections and knocks will appear. After fixing problems with the engine, you can simply add oil and contact the warranty authorities. Just do not forget that for the effect of invisibility, the oil should be drained through the neck from above.
The next, less popular methods are the induction of artificial corrosion, for this purpose they use the usual household chemicals- "Whiteness". According to experimenters, such a mixture can cause instant corrosion. metal parts, for this purpose, the agent is poured into the tank.
After a short time of operation of the engine, the entire hodovka will rise from unnatural rust. Moreover, repair after all this will be very difficult. After adding such an ingredient, the engine will smoke and stall.
The following methods are associated with a deliberate decrease in the level of antifreeze or antifreeze, this leads to overheating of the motor and damage to the piston system. And you can also fill the gas tank with the usual drying oil used in painting, this will also have a negative effect on the pistons. Aviation kerosene poured into the tank will have an effect on the spark plugs and pistons due to its detonation.
Sometimes a solvent with number 646 is added to the oil, such a mixture will not allow the formation of an oil film in friction points with all the consequences.
Below we answer the question: how to kill diesel engines in natural ways
The surest way to ruin a diesel engine is to run the car in extreme conditions. It's no secret that modern manufacturers they lay in the engines a safety margin of about 500 thousand kilometers.
It should be said that this is a pretty good supply, unless, of course, you are going to the moon by car. The factory safety margin of the engine depends on compliance with the speed switching table.
In normal urban conditions, this is 60-80 km / h, and 130-150 km / h on the highway. And also in the calculation of strength lay the observance of the rules for accelerating the speed of a diesel engine. While driving, these are 4th and 5th gears, gears below these values \u200b\u200bare recommended only for speeding up. Add to all this modern urban realities like traffic jams with its constant braking and slow movement.
However, all these factors in the aggregate are taken into account by manufacturers. But, if you are determined to kill the engine, then ignore everything the above rules and recommendations. Break the speed chart, accelerate in low gears and vice versa, drive slowly in high gears, start in high gear. In the best case, the diesel engine will withstand such treatment for 2-3 years.
water hammer
Use high puddles. Accelerate and drive into a puddle on high speed, as a result, a rush of water will fill the engine compartment and pass through the air filter. Water may get into piston system provoking a conflict with the rotation of the crankshaft, this is how a water hammer occurs. The result of all this is a major overhaul.
Infrequent oil change
Disrupt the engine oil change schedule. According to the instructions, the oil needs to be changed every 10 thousand km of cheating, increase this period by two to three times. You will save on oil and help yourself to ruin the engine. In principle, a car can drive 30,000 kilometers on one oil fill-up, but the condition power unit will be catastrophic.
Oil after repeated dry circulation will simply turn into fuel oil. The first serious signs can be noticed after 7 thousand km over the norm after an oil change, these are frequent overheating, noise and frequent breakdown nodes.
Illiterate use of additives
The indiscriminate use of all kinds of additives for fuel and oil will also help prematurely kill a diesel engine. Fill in additives without any system and the need to familiarize yourself with the instructions. Buy cheap additives directly at the gas station, they will effectively clog the fuel supply system.
Improper care of the radiator
Do not pay attention to radiator contamination, let it clog up with road debris, like fluff, insects, etc. Household car owners usually keep the radiator clean. But if you are planning to kill the engine, then do exactly the opposite. A dirty radiator is a guaranteed overheating of the engine and a malfunction in the air conditioning system.
Improper timing belt care
There is also a margin of safety for timing belts. Manufacturers usually recommend changing it after 60-70 thousand kilometers, including the replacement of rollers. If wear occurs earlier, it is recommended to replace immediately. Replacing the belt will cost somewhere around $ 150, so think about it, is it worth it to shell out? It is better to continue driving with a worn belt, it will be more economical! Maybe it won't break!
If it still breaks, it is better if it happens within the city, and not somewhere on the international highway. The timing belt, depending on the design of the unit, is located near important nodes so if it breaks, it can damage the engine valves, which is a $600 guaranteed repair.
So ignore the belt replacement period. If you still want to be safe, then check the condition of the belt every 15 thousand km, paying attention to the white threads on the belt tape and low tension.
Neglect of the condition of the glow plugs
Rarely change glow plugs. Do not worry. You can generally forget about their existence and wind up kilometers. In the best case, you will last 80 thousand without the need to replace the kit. You will be lucky if you use fuel for refueling High Quality, but in reality it is rarely possible to choose something of high quality.
Most likely, somewhere after 30 thousand kilometers, the candles will ask for a replacement, and at all poor quality fuel even 15 thousand will be the limit of their life. If you do not change the spark plugs on time, the result is the accumulation of gases in the combustion chamber. It will be difficult for the candle to give out the necessary sparks and, as a result, detonation will occur, after which wear or destruction of the piston edges.
Poor quality fuel
As mentioned above, cheap diesel fuel leads to spark plug wear. Save on the quality of fuel, if you have a choice, save a few cents by pouring cheap vodka, which sometimes can hardly even be called diesel. Most of the time it's waste. chemical production. .
Water instead of Tosol!
Feel free to use plain water instead of standard coolant. What's the difference, because the main thing is to have liquid. The cooling system will quickly become unusable, because the water scales. To clean the system, use water with lemon juice, do not use alkaline solutions, and do not spare antifreeze.
The cooling system will be all covered in scale, and within three months the cavitation effect will reliably kill the engine. Cavitation is power! Bubbles can completely destroy the system, down to the holes in the cylinder liners.
Low quality filters
Buy filters only cheap production. They, most likely, can be found in open markets selling surrogates. Such filters have low-quality elements and a non-working valve. Both factors qualitatively spoil the engine. All debris will settle in the unit. Cheap filters often break, leaving a direct path for dust to flow towards the engine.
Conclusion
Summing up, of course, we admit that the ultimate goal of this semi-joking story is to list the main omissions of car owners, which often lead to serious consequences, such as damage to the engine and running system.
If you still have the firm intention of ruining the engine, then you should heed the above tips and follow the car care instructions exactly the opposite.
