An ominous brown stain on the fender, a bubble on the paint at the bottom of the door, suddenly wet after passing a large puddle - all this clear signs the fact that such a slow killer as rust began to undermine your car.
Rust. Many people underestimate her. Many do not know that it is this seemingly frivolous trouble that regularly sends tens of thousands of cars to a landfill. But the problem is preventable, and it can and should be fought!
With iron-based metals, fighting oxidation can be a Sisyphean task, because even with advanced coatings and alloys developed by professional chemists and engineers, unstable chemical composition steel in its original form means it will always rust in natural environment. However, this does not mean that your car is doomed. By understanding the process of metal oxidation and knowing the problem areas on your car body, you can extend the life of your car.
Can rust be avoided?
At the same time, untreated raw sheet steel can resist rusting for a very long time, without crumbling into its component parts for several years.
From this we can draw the first conclusion: if you buy a car (even if it is new model and you pick up the car from the passenger compartment), be sure to go over the forums and look if these car models of a particular year of manufacture rust. Otherwise, you may be very unlucky and you will end up on some batch of cars in which, for some unknown reason, steel of inadequate quality was used. As you understand, such cars will rot. Such cases are rare, but they do happen. Therefore, be vigilant.
So you became the owner or have long been the owner of the car. If you have purchased new car and expect to use it for a long period of time - from five years and above, congratulations, you have a chance to see all the stages of the development of body destruction.
Let's take a look at the three main types of rust and then discuss how it can be avoided or "cured".
Surface rust (first stage)
The first signs of a problem appear in cracks and scratches in the paint. Difficulty level: easy fix.
Rust “hunts” for structural and chemical impurities in metal alloys at the microscopic and molecular levels. Pure iron does not oxidize as aggressively as cheaper material with big amount impurities. This is easy to understand if you look at the old parts from the premium German cars 70s, 80s. Even unpainted elements, being on outdoors, in rain and snow, although they will rust over time, the penetration of oxidation will not be as deep as in the case of cars of the 90s and zero years of the 21st century.
The thing is, as you understand, that higher quality alloys were used, which helped to lay greater wear resistance in all parts of the car, including the body.
Unfortunately, iron is not particularly good material to create cars. The addition of a small amount of carbon to iron creates a steel that offers a significant improvement in flexibility, tensile strength, and panel press formability. But by definition, it adds impurities - impurities that speed up the rusting process.
The second stage (penetration into the metal structure begins)
The chemical process destroys the surface and reduces the strength of the metal.
The spread of rust deep into the steel depends on many different factors:
alloy, part thickness, environment(the presence of snow, reagents that accelerate the decomposition process, temperature changes) and the type of heat treatment of the part.
Alloying elements such as nickel and chromium can be added to prevent rust, but nothing can 100% protect a part - everything eventually corrodes.
The agent is a separate issue altogether. The rusting effect is accelerated by the presence of any kind of salt. Salts from the road and other contaminants dissolved in the water act as electrolytes. Getting to an unprotected place where a chemical reaction takes place, they significantly accelerate the exchange of molecular components.
In practice, you can say the following: dirty car rusts faster than clean. This also explains the long-standing fact why cars in countries with northern climates, where salts and chemicals are used in winter, tend to rot.
Penetrating rust (third stage)
After a long exposure to the oxidation process, the steel turns into a brittle iron oxide. Through holes are formed.
Automakers do a lot to try and prevent corrosion. A huge number of tests and entire sections of materials science are devoted to preserving the body of your car. The aluminum and magnesium components help a lot in the fight against rust. They are practically not subject to oxidation, and their safety margin will last for decades to come. However, these metals are expensive enough to be used for such a large part as a body.
Modern sheet steel comes out with a variety of protective coatings even at the stage of its production in a steel mill. On car factory to this are added additional protective coatings, including galvanizing and a thick layer of surface protection for the bottom of the car, which literally seals the body from exposure to oxygen elements and the destructive external environment.
Alas, over time, any is erased, thinner and in some places completely disappears. The metal is exposed, the process of destruction begins.
Advice: few people do this, but it is important at least once a year, after winter, to examine a cleanly washed (ideally, you need to wash the bottom) car for damage to the protective layer. In the event that a chip or deep scratch is found that has reached the metal, it will be necessary to neutralize the damage by stopping air from accessing the damaged part of the surface.
Depending on the depth and location of damage, it is possible to use a primer for these purposes, followed by paint application (with little damage), rust converter, with sealing the hearth from oxygen access, applying anticorrosive on the bottom, if protective layer the bottom was damaged in several places. With average operation, its damage occurs after three years.
Vigilance and car care - that's the key long work body.
Prevention
The best advice is the most obvious: wash the car regularly to clean the body and bottom (at least once a year, after winter) from dirt and salts that lead to corrosion. Not so obvious advice - at the bottom of the doors and thresholds. If water stagnates there, it will inevitably rust.
But if rust does appear, this is not such a great problem. The fact is that rusting can be stopped at any stage.
surface rust
In most cases, surface rust forms at the site of paint breakage due to mechanical or UV damage. The first stage of rusting will not bring big problems to the body of your car. Depending on the thickness of the metal and the quality of the alloy, more than one year may pass to the third stage.
Regardless, it's best to get rid of surface rust as soon as you find it. The fix is no different from general repair LKP. We wrote a lot about how to repair other damage.
Second stage
You didn't clean up the rust in the first stage, and now the rusty bubble under the paint flaunts on the body. Rust molecules are physically larger than iron or steel molecules. As a result, rust self-propagates by expansion, affecting and destroying fresh metal. If it is not completely removed, the decay process will not stop.
When repairing a part, you need to use a rust converter, as well as a brush with hard metal bristles, sandpaper or an abrasive disc. We clean the hearth to a flat surface, then apply a primer and paint.
penetrating rust
Eventually the base metal peels off and a hole forms in its place. Now you have a big problem and you have two options. You can replace the panel (if possible), or you will have to cut out the rotten parts and ask for normal metal patches to be welded in.
It is useful to compare (German experience):
But if the frame is rusted, this means that the structural integrity of the car may be compromised. You can't fix the frame on your own. Either change to a new one, or seek advice from professionals.
High humidity, temperature changes, aggressive reagents on the roads and other factors provoke the appearance of rust on the car body. Modern foreign cars are less susceptible to this disease than domestic cars. But regardless of the country of production, cars that have been damaged and poorly restored paintwork and galvanization are not protected from corrosion. The appearance of rust not only spoils appearance. Over time, the damaged area expands and deepens, and the part has to be completely replaced.
During normal operation good conditions storage and timely anti-corrosion treatment are the main condition for the absence of rust on the machine. But if a corrosion center has appeared, then you need to try to localize it as soon as possible. Natural oxidation and other chemical reactions that occur with the metal are almost impossible to remove. However, there are ways to slow down the process and limit its spread.
Processing technology
First of all, the place with the center of corrosion is thoroughly cleaned from dirt, paint and primer to metal. This is usually done with coarse grit abrasive paper. The cleaned place is treated with a "rust converter". After it has completely dried, the surface of the body is prepared for painting - it is cleaned, primed and puttied. To improve the result, you can use an anti-corrosion primer. The final part — painting and polishing the body.
If a very small area is damaged or it is not possible to carry out the above work, then an anti-corrosion varnish can be used. Its composition contains corrosion inhibitors that penetrate into the damaged area and neutralize rust. This transparent coating does not require deep cleaning, but is applied to a washed and thoroughly dried surface.
It is important to carry out the processing correctly, observing the technology and drying all layers. Otherwise, all efforts will simply be lost, and in the worst case, they will provoke the development of corrosion.
rust converter
These substances may have a different form of packaging and method of application, but they have the same principle of action. Their main component is orthophosphoric acid, which comes into active contact with oxidized surfaces, creating an oxygen-impermeable microfilm. Without access to an oxidizing agent, the chemical reaction stops, and the metal ceases to break down.
Rust converter is sold as a liquid, aerosol or gel. Apply the drug in accordance with its instructions. It is important to observe safety precautions and try not to come into contact with the chemically active composition of unprotected skin.
You can make your own rust converter by mixing plain water and citric or oxalic acid one to one (there may be a little more acid). Soda is added to the solution at the rate of 4 g (half a teaspoon) per liter. To treat the body, a neutral fabric moistened with the composition (cotton, linen and other natural materials) is applied to the affected area.
An even greater effect can be provided by the use of a rust converter, which is made on the basis of an electrolytic zinc salt solution. The solution is applied to the cleaned surface with a cloth-wrapped electrode connected to the battery. The damaged area needs to be rubbed in a circular motion until it starts to turn grey. The color is created by zinc, which settles on the surface of the metal, protecting it from corrosion.
Prevention
Periodically carry out a complete preventive inspection of the vehicle to detect corrosion damage. This can be done in a specialized service center or on your own.
The surface to be inspected must be clean, otherwise it will not be possible to notice a small brown spot under the layer of dirt - the center of rust propagation. Inspection must be carried out not only from above, but also from below, driving the car onto lifts or putting it on a “pit”. You can periodically look under the upholstery. Especially if the car was damp. Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the joints of parts - welds and joints of metal with seals.
If the car has lost any decorative detail(molding, nameplate, body kit), then before returning the car to its previous appearance, treat the mounting hole with some kind of preservative compound. The same drug should be used to treat the site of the violation. paintwork that appeared after a minor accident.
Do you think rust is a problem for 15-year-old Zhiguli owners? Alas, warranty cars are also covered with red spots, even if the body is galvanized. We figure out how to properly care for the metal and whether it is possible to protect it from corrosion once and for all.
What is a body? The structure is made of thin sheet metal, with different alloys and with many welded joints. And yet we must not forget that the body is used as a "minus" for onboard network, that is, it conducts current continuously. Yes, he just has to rust! Let's try to figure out what is happening to the car body and how to deal with it.
What is rust?
Corrosion of iron or steel is the process of oxidizing a metal with oxygen in the presence of water. The output is hydrated iron oxide - a loose powder that we all call rust.
destruction car body belong to the classical examples of electrochemical corrosion. But water and air are only part of the problem. In addition to conventional chemical processes important role it is played by galvanic pairs arising between electrochemically inhomogeneous pairs of surfaces.
I can already see how a bored expression appears on the faces of humanities readers. Do not be afraid of the term "galvanic couple" - we are not at a lecture on chemistry and we will not give complex formulas. This very pair in a particular case is just a combination of two metals.
Metals, they are almost like people. They don't like it when someone else hugs them. Imagine yourself on a bus. A rumpled man snuggled up to you, yesterday celebrating with friends some Day of a high-altitude fitter. This is what is called an unacceptable galvanic couple in chemistry. Aluminum and copper, nickel and silver, magnesium and steel... These are “sworn enemies” that, in close electrical connection, will very quickly “devour” each other.
In fact, no metal can last long in close contact with an outsider. Think for yourself: even if a curvy blonde (or a slender brown-haired woman, to taste) clung to you, then at first it will be nice ... But you won’t stand like that all your life. Especially in the rain. And is it raining? Now everything will become clear.
There are a lot of places in the car where galvanic couples are formed. Not invalid, but "normal". Welding points, body panels made of different metals, various fasteners and assemblies, even different points on the same plate with different machining surfaces. There is always a potential difference between them all, which means that in the presence of an electrolyte there will be corrosion.
Wait, what is an electrolyte? An inquisitive motorist will remember that this is a kind of caustic liquid that is poured into batteries. And he will be right only in part. An electrolyte is generally any substance that conducts current. A weak acid solution is poured into the battery, but it is not necessary to pour acid on the car to accelerate corrosion. Works great with electrolytes plain water. In its pure (distilled) form, it is not an electrolyte, but in nature pure water does not meet...
Thus, in each formed galvanic pair, under the influence of water, the destruction of the metal begins on the side of the anode - the positively charged side. How to defeat this process? We cannot forbid metals to corrode from each other, but we can exclude electrolyte from this system. Without it, “permissible” galvanic couples can exist for a long time. Longer than the car.
How do manufacturers deal with rust?
The easiest way to protect is to cover the metal surface with a film through which the electrolyte will not penetrate. And if the metal is also good, with a low content of impurities that promote corrosion (for example, sulfur), then the result will be quite worthy.
But don't take the words literally. The film is optionally polyethylene. The most common type of protective film is paint and primer. It can also be created from metal phosphates by treating the surface with a phosphating solution. The phosphorus-containing acids included in its composition will oxidize the upper layer of the metal, creating a very strong and thin film.
By covering the phosphate film with layers of primer and paint, you can protect the car body for many years, it was according to this “recipe” that bodies were prepared for decades, and, as you can see, quite successfully - many cars manufactured in the fifties and sixties were able to survive to our times.
But not all, because over time, the paint is prone to cracking. At first, the outer layers do not withstand, then the cracks reach the metal and the phosphate film. And in case of accidents and subsequent repairs, coatings are often applied without observing the absolute cleanliness of the surface, leaving small points of corrosion on it, which always contain a little moisture. And under the film of paint, a new center of destruction begins to appear.
You can improve the quality of the coating, use more and more elastic paints, the layer of which can be a little more reliable. can cover plastic film. But there is best technology. The coating of steel with a thin layer of metal having a more resistant oxide film has been used for a long time. The so-called tinplate - sheet steel coated with a thin layer of tin, is familiar to everyone who has ever seen a tin can at least once in their life.
Tin has not been used to cover car bodies for a long time, although there are stories about tinned bodies. This is an echo of the technology of correcting defects during hot solder stamping, when part of the surface was manually covered with a thick layer of tin, and sometimes the most complex and important parts of the car body really turned out to be well protected.
Modern coatings to prevent corrosion are applied at the factory before the body panels are stamped, and zinc or aluminum are used as "rescuers". Both of these metals, in addition to having a strong oxide film, have another valuable quality - lower electronegativity. In the already mentioned galvanic pair, which is formed after the destruction of the outer paint film, they, and not steel, will play the role of the anode, and as long as there is some aluminum or zinc left on the panel, they will be destroyed. This property can be exploited in another way, simply by adding a little powder of such metals to the primer with which the metal is coated, which will give the body panel an additional chance for a long life.
In some industries, when the task is to protect the metal, other technologies are also used. Serious metal structures can be equipped with special protective plates made of aluminum and zinc, which can be changed over time, and even electrochemical protection systems. Using a voltage source, such a system transfers the anode to some parts of the structure that are not load-bearing. There are no such things on cars.
Multilayer sandwich consisting of a layer of phosphates on the surface of steel or zinc, a layer of zinc or aluminum, anti-corrosion primer with zinc and several layers of paint and varnish, even in very aggressive external environment like ordinary city air with moisture, dirt and salt, it allows you to save body panels for a dozen or two years.
In places where the paint layer is easily damaged (for example, on the bottom), thick layers of sealants and mastics are used, which additionally protect the paint surface. We used to call it "anticorrosive". Additionally, compositions based on paraffin and oils are pumped into the internal cavities, their task is to displace moisture from the surfaces, thereby further improving protection.
None of the methods alone provides one hundred percent protection, but together they allow manufacturers to give an eight to ten year guarantee against through corrosion body. However, we must remember that corrosion is like death. Its arrival can be slowed down or postponed, but it cannot be completely excluded. In general, what do we say to rust? Correct: Not today. Or, to paraphrase modern classic, "not this year".
a href="http://polldaddy.com/poll/8389175/"Did you have to deal with rust on the body?/a
All car owners regularly carry out maintenance of their cars, especially those whose service life has exceeded 10 years. But outward manifestations of deterioration often go unnoticed. And in vain! Even small "specks" - foreign particles that have fallen into the paint of a car - can lead to catastrophic consequences over time. They can be prevented if taken in time preventive measures. You can read about what “bugs” are on a car and how to get rid of them in this article.
Where do bugs come from on cars?
Since childhood, we all know the main enemy of iron - rust. It corrodes the metal, little by little making your personal transport unsuitable for movement. Rust appears on the body due to the destruction of the paint layer of the car, which is applied with a protective film during production. Small scratches, damages open access to oxygen and air to iron, which creates ideal conditions for the appearance of "bugs" on the car. The rate of spread of this infection depends on the environment: a humid climate with frequent precipitation speeds up the process several times. IN winter period the situation is aggravated by the appearance of chemicals on the roads, which act like salt on the wound, corroding the car body even deeper. What to do if rust appears on the car?
Rust is the curse of motorists
It is unlikely that there will be an owner of such a car older than 10 years who would have passed the “rusty disease”. Some people think that iron used to be better than it is now. Others argue that it's all about proper care and prevention. Be that as it may, quite often on the roads you can find cars covered with orange spots.
Rust can be localized in one place (for example, at the bottom of the thresholds of the car) or spread throughout the body. Most often, areas that are most closely in contact with dirt and small stones are affected: the bottom, thresholds and bottom of car doors. The situation can be aggravated by mechanical influences: Curb runs, accidents, scratches and damage intentionally or accidentally caused by people. The fact is that even from a small “bare” area of \u200b\u200biron, rust can very quickly spread throughout the body. At the same time, the "bugs" on the roof of the car most often corrode the iron "into the depths", which makes it even more difficult to cope with the defect. How can you get rid of rust?
How to remove rust from a car
There are several ways to get rid of rust on the body - mechanical and chemical. Regardless of the method chosen, the cleaning process of the machine is divided into several stages:
- Body cleaning is one of the most important stages of work. Much will depend on its effectiveness, because only it is able to show how the process is running. It often happens that before washing the car looks pretty decent, and after it becomes like cheese eaten by mice. There is nothing strange in this, because dirt and rotten iron often close up damaged areas, making it impossible to properly assess the scale of the disaster. Therefore, when preparing to wash the car, you need to be most careful. It is worth using only a special one that will carefully remove dirt and chemical compounds from the body.
- Cleaning of damaged areas of the body can be carried out using various methods. Its main purpose is to remove rust from machine parts. Here it is even better to overdo it a little, clearing a large area. If you do this stage of work in bad faith, then all efforts will go down the drain.
- Removal of rust residues with a chemical compound.
- Application of a primer, during which a coating is applied to the cavity that has appeared, completely leveling the relief of the body. The primer, of course, does not replace a solid sheet of iron, but is significantly the best alternative than rust.
- The final step is painting the repaired section of the machine. It is very important to get the color right here. If everything is done as it should, then there will be no noticeable traces of work, and your car will become like new.
mechanical method
As we found out, there are several ways, one of which is mechanical. It is carried out using a sandblasting machine, grinder, special metal brushes or sandpaper. This method is chosen in cases where the damage is already running and superficial manipulations are indispensable. To remove the "bugs" on the metal parts of the car, it is necessary to clean the damage until the traces of corrosion completely disappear. Best of all, if the detail will shine. The most convenient for use is the one that delivers a jet of sand under high pressure. It allows you to quickly and accurately polish the metal to a shine, giving it its original appearance.
Chemical method
Another way in which you can clean the body of rust refers to chemical methods impact. Special reagents that should be applied to damaged areas of the car can significantly reduce the time and effort for the procedure. But, unfortunately, they are not suitable for everyone: the depth of corrosion should be no more than 1 mm. As a rule, chemical reagents are aggressive compounds that interact with rust and destroy it. Therefore, when using them, it is very important to observe safety precautions:
- Do not use reagents in confined spaces.
- Protect your respiratory organs with special masks.
- Avoid contact with eyes or mouth.
- Use gloves.
Each of the methods has its pros and cons. But they are usually used not separately, but together. The first stage of mechanical cleaning helps to properly treat rust-damaged areas, and chemicals finish the job, getting to hard-to-reach places. By combining these two methods, anyone can quickly and easily clean their car from rust.
Car anti-corrosion coating
What is This is a special coating that can temporarily prevent the appearance of rust on the car. Experts advise to anti-corrosion treatment everyone, without exception, at least once every three years. Not good good condition our roads and humid climate are the causes of numerous body defects, which inevitably lead to further breakdowns. During anti-corrosion with a special solution, which is selected according to the type of rust and operating conditions. On this moment There are the following types of coverage:
- Transparent liquid plastic is a composition that protects the body from mechanical damage and giving a cosmetic gloss effect. Such a composition is unlikely to protect the car for a long time, so it should be considered solely as a preventive procedure.
- Bituminous mastic is made on the basis of synthetic and bituminous resins, which form a thin film on the car body and protect it from rust and chemicals.
- Rubber-based anticorrosive agent is one of the most durable ways damage protection. It effectively protects the body from small scratches and rust. In automobile factories, this composition is most often applied.
You can make an anti-corrosion coating to protect the car body yourself, spending some time and effort on the selection necessary funds. The main thing in self-painting is to carefully process all the nooks and crannies and hard-to-reach places where you usually don’t look. With timely and regular treatment of the car, rust will definitely not appear on it.
How to remove rust with your own hands
How to close the "bugs" on the car with your own hands? You can remove the hated rust yourself, using a mechanical or chemical method cleaning. By sequence independent way no different from the salon. You will need pre-prepared equipment, time and a little patience. With proper preparation, the process is quite simple and does not require any specific skills or abilities.
The performance of a vehicle depends on its performance. This indicator is associated with various conditions, one of which is the presence of rust. rusty car unable to fully perform their functions, and requires repair work. If the rust is not removed in a timely manner, it will grow until the car fails. Therefore, if corrosion is detected, it should be repaired as soon as possible.
Many car owners know little about corrosion. Rust occurs due to an electrochemical reaction, as a result of which the body shell gradually turns into iron oxide. Places affected by the reaction are covered with corrosion. The following are involved in the reaction:
- anode - a metal component of the body;
- electrolyte - water with a low salt content;
- cathode - metal surface exposed to electrolytes.
Thus, if during use the vehicle periodically comes into contact with water, rust appears. In most cases, corrosion affects the areas of joints and chips.
Rust is more common in winter. This is due to the fact that the chemical renegades used by utilities contain salts that act as an electrolyte.
Types of corrosion
Body corrosion is divided into two types:
- Dry. This type of rust occurs when the vehicle is stored in a dry place. Dry corrosion is characterized by tarnishing of the surface on the machine, but no visible focus is found. You can overcome dry rust with the help of special substances.
- Wet. Occurs in the form of pronounced areas of damage to the surface. If the rust is not removed in a timely manner, it will increase. Piercing corrosion can cause serious damage.
Depending on the type of rust, the method of its elimination is chosen.
Appearance stages
Rust usually occurs after an accident. But at normal conditions it is a natural process characterized by three stages:
- at the first stage, corrosion of the car affects the joints of parts - it is eliminated with sandpaper, or other improvised means;
- the second stage is known as "under-film" - it manifests itself as an emerging focus, surrounded by swollen paint;
- the third stage is characterized by damage to the metal body, and the appearance of holes in it - such damage to the metal can be eliminated with the help of a full restoration of the body.
In order to prevent the first stage from flowing into subsequent ones, the car is periodically inspected for chips, bumps, and paint color changes. If you notice in time when rust damage begins, serious problems can be prevented.
Corrosion of the painted surface
Paintwork is a protective coating for your car. The painted surface is protected from corrosion thanks to:
- water-repellent properties;
- low gas permeability;
- low vapor permeability.
Under normal use of the car, the performance of the paintwork is gradually reduced due to natural wear and tear. But sometimes the corrosion of the car body occurs for other reasons:
- when applying hardening paint, defects were made;
- pores have appeared in the paint film;
- the paint is applied in a thin film (fenders and other car elements that have bends are more likely to be affected by this problem).
Prolonged exposure to moisture on the vehicle coating causes Negative consequences- the destruction of the paint appears. Many drivers do not know why in some cases it is better to store the car on the street than to hide it in the garage. If in a car storage garage high rate humidity, it is recommended to put it outdoors. Ventilation will slow down the wear of the paintwork.
Sand-salt mixture on the roads
Corrosion of the car during operation is accelerated due to the impact of the sand-salt mixture on the roads. In winter, utilities often use sand and salt, poured onto the road, to deal with ice. As the temperature rises, ice and snow melt to form water. It interacts with sand and salt, and forms a sand-salt mixture.
During operation, the mixture accumulates in damaged areas of the body, provoking the destruction of the paintwork. The body surface is left unprotected and corrosion occurs. The more sand-salt mixture gets into damaged places the more rust spreads. With prolonged exposure to the machine, great damage is done. To protect the car from corrosion on the body, special substances are used.
Types of corrosion control
Rust on the coating can be removed by hand. This task is carried out using:
- sandblasting machine or grinder (as budget analogue sandpaper is used)
- paper;
- masking tape;
- rags;
- rust converter ( special remedy sold in auto parts stores)
- primers and fiberglass putty;
- rubber gloves;
- fiberglass set;
- paints and varnish.
List necessary fixtures varies depending on how badly the coating is affected by rust. It is recommended that tools and materials have a designation that allows their use for car processing. There are three types of corrosion control methods:
- passive - primer and paint are applied;
- active - mastics, sealants, anti-corrosion agents are used to fight rust;
- electrochemical - installation electronic device transferring the occurrence of rust from the surface of the body to the electrode (rust removal by the electrochemical method requires serious costs).
The most common due to the low cost is the first method. Elimination of corrosion is carried out step by step:
- the car is cleaned of dust and dirt;
- rust is removed from damaged areas;
- the cleaned areas are treated with a rust converter (the action is performed with gloves);
- the site is treated with a primer;
- after the primer has hardened, paint and varnish are applied to the metal surface.
Body protection from manufacturers
To prevent the occurrence of rust on the car, manufacturers of modern Vehicle use their own protection. Before going on sale, the car undergoes anti-corrosion treatment. Most high quality body protection differs from German and Japanese manufacturers.
The most common factory protection options are:
- paints and varnishes;
- galvanization;
- anodizing.
The last method is the most reliable, and is provided with the help of special devices. Modern technologies help to avoid the recurrence of rust, but such devices are installed mainly only on expensive models.
Serial vehicles foreign production usually after production they are covered with a protective film or a layer of zinc. But such coatings have a limited operational period. If the machine gets damaged, they will stop working.
Some firms use galvanizing in conjunction with special metals. But this practice does not apply to all cars.
Car storage conditions
Corrosion of metal on the car appears in damp conditions. The vehicle may be stored in a low humidity garage. The room must be ventilated and clean.
- install a heating system;
- completely free from contaminants;
- install a ventilation system.
Ways to extend the life of the body
Rust from the car is easy to remove with your own hands. But many do not know what to do to prevent it. To extend the life of the body, and prevent corrosion, you should follow a few tips. To combat corrosion, you can:
- treat the surface with water-repellent substances;
- apply a soundproofing agent to the coating;
- cover the body with a vinyl film that prevents scratches and chips;
- process the lower part of the body with auto wax;
- apply a protective film of zinc particles.
Galvanizing is expensive, so it is recommended to perform it as an additional step. Another expensive option is car protectors. If the machine already has rust, the described steps can only be carried out after restoration.
Are imported cars protected from corrosion?
Imported vehicle brands are produced with additional protection. But it is temporary. Its operational period depends on the quality of the roads on which the car drives.
After a few years, the protection is reduced, due to which the machine becomes subject to corrosion. Therefore, if there is imported models the same precautions are observed as when using domestic cars.
