What to do if the car starts to rust. Removing rust from a car body

The fight against corrosion of a car often causes a lot of problems for its owner. To do this, three main methods are used - passive, active and electrochemical, but each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Most often with the help of special tools. And for the purpose of prevention on the bottom, the sills of the body and other hidden places are glued protective film or treated with mastic. There are also other preventive measures, which we will talk about with you later.

Causes of corrosion

To begin with, we will understand why corrosion processes occur. The problem is that corrosion metal surfaces There are four types - electrochemical, chemical, hydrogen and oxygen. In the context of rusting car body only the first two types occur.

Electrochemical corrosion occurs due to the fact that two materials with different reducing properties interact through an electrolyte (any undistilled water is such). Since iron has low reducing properties, it is highly susceptible to rusting. Chemical corrosion occurs due to the interaction of the metal surface and the corrosive environment. Oxygen can act as the latter high temperatures. Understanding the essence of emerging processes gives us the ground to search for methods to combat corrosion.

Types of corrosion control

There are two main ways to protect the car body from corrosion. The first is barrier protection. It does not allow the physical interaction of the surface of vulnerable metals with external environment. This is expressed in the use paintwork and various mechanical means and protection. The second is tread protection. An example of this is galvanization, because zinc has a more negative potential than iron. Accordingly, if you connect them, then in such a pair iron will be restored, and zinc will corrode. However, since there is an oxide film on the zinc surface, this process is very slow.

As mentioned earlier, there are three main types of corrosion control on a car:

1. Passive.
2. Active.
3. Electrochemical.

Passive fighting method involves the use of body paintwork. The task of the car owner in this case is to maintain the integrity of the LCP. Cannot be allowed to appear small chips or scratches on its surface. This method should also include periodic washing of the car, as well as the use of additional protective agents - wax, and so on.

Under active method of struggle with car corrosion imply the use of special anti-corrosion materials and mastics. They differ depending on which parts of the body are used. For example, the bottom of a car is often treated with an anti-gravel coating. As a rule, these compositions are based on fine aluminum powder. There are also special anti-corrosion agents for wheel arches. Most often, the so-called liquid locker (durable elastic material) is used for this. A separate class are anti-corrosion materials for hidden cavities. They are designed for processing thresholds, pillars, spars, floor reinforcements and other surfaces.

Electrochemical method of struggle with metal corrosion on the car body is to use a special electronic device, which incorporates an electrode designed to take on corrosion. Simply put, it will not be the body of the machine that will rust, but the said electrode. This method is very efficient, but significant disadvantage is a high price.

How to remove corrosion from a car

Now let's go directly to the methods and means to combat corrosion on a car with our own hands. First of all, it is necessary to mechanically remove rust from the surface. And do it very carefully! For these purposes, use sandpaper, various abrasive wheels for a drill or grinder, as well as sandblasting. It is the latter tool that most effectively cleans the affected surface.

When working with sandblasting, use tools personal protection- Respirator, goggles, headgear, gloves. And it is better to carry out work either in a separate room with forced ventilation, or on the street away from surfaces with paintwork and glass.

Sandblasting work

Also used to remove corrosion special formulations. The simplest in this case is to use a weak solution of hydrochloric acid followed by its removal.

However the most reliable method of corrosion control is to use rust converters or modifiers. They convert iron oxide to iron tannate. As a rule, they include polymers that act as a primer.

Rust converters for cars convert corrosion into a layer of iron and zinc phosphates and chromates. They are also sometimes used to treat uncorroded metal before applying a primer to prevent future corrosion and to improve the adhesion of the paintwork to the metal surface.

The best preventive measure to combat the corrosion of a car is its anti-corrosion treatment at the service station. It needs to be updated periodically every 2-3 years.

An independent fight against car corrosion has the following sequence:

Remember that all work must be carried out carefully, since even a small stain of rust can grow significantly over time.

Visible rusty seam

Always check status welds on the body of the machine. Remember that they are the most vulnerable to corrosion. In particular, its intercrystalline form, which is especially dangerous. The consequence of its appearance is an imperceptible loss of ductility and strength of the metal. So, the boundaries of welded grains are destroyed chaotically, and the regions of structural transformations turn into an anode, which dissolves intensively. Moreover, such a phenomenon can be observed not only on iron car bodies, but also on stainless steel, aluminum, chromium-nickel and chromium alloys. Corrosion in this case threatens with chipping of individual metal grains, due to which the seam and the body as a whole gradually lose their mechanical properties.

The areas most prone to rusting on a vehicle body are the lower parts of the door panels, sills, front fenders, box sections of the lower body, the inner surface wheel arches. Due to the fact that access to the listed places is difficult, there is always a risk of not noticing the appearance of rust pockets. Check their status for viewing hole or on a lift!

Popular Rust Removers

Currently, there are dozens of different rust converters in car dealerships, and their range may be different in different regions of the country. Therefore, it makes no sense to give recommendations about the purchase of a particular product. But we still give as an example a few names of popular compositions that are common among car owners. So:

The popular remedy "Tsinkar"

• "Movil";
• a line of rust converters Hi-Gear;
• "Kolchuga";
• sonax;
• "SF-1";
• runway;
• permatex;
• bitumast;
• Phosphomet.

It must be remembered that with the help of any converter it is possible to deal with rust, the layer of which does not exceed 0.1 mm. In addition, the active components fight only with ingrained rust. Its loose component is best removed mechanically (using sandpaper, a knife, a metal brush, sandblasting, and so on).

When working with converters, follow the safety regulations. It is advisable to work with rubber gloves and avoid getting liquid on exposed skin.

The choice of one or another means should be based on the assortment, its composition, price. Fortunately, they are inexpensive, so if the purchased product turns out to be ineffective, you can always purchase another one.

Body galvanization

Use of "Zincor-Auto"

Galvanizing at home

An excellent option for passive body protection against harmful effects corrosion is its zinc plating at home. To do this, you can buy a tool "Zincor-Auto" or similar. Currently, many manufacturers produce such products.

Beware of fakes! In connection with the successful use of this tool, many unscrupulous manufacturers began to produce counterfeit products. Buy the product only in certified and trusted stores.

"Zincor-Auto" is a means of coating small areas with a layer of zinc paintwork damage leading to rust on the hull. The principle of operation is based on the galvanic effect, due to which zinc particles cover the affected area of ​​the metal case. The kit includes working electrodes, connecting wires, and two bottles of various formulations- rust converter and zinc solution directly. The algorithm for using the device is as follows:

Means for galvanizing "Zinkor-Avto"

1. Using a clerical knife or other improvised means, it is necessary to carefully remove rust from the surface. And not only in places where it is visible, but also under the paint, since in the future it can spread further across the area.
2. Put the car on hand brake and start the engine. Further connecting wire, which is included in the kit of the device, must be connected to the positive terminal of the battery. It is also possible to carry out the operation on a non-started engine, but it is still better to do this with the engine running, since in this mode the current value will be higher.
3. The other end of the wire must be connected to the red electrode. Check that the machine body is grounded. The presence of a galvanic effect directly depends on this.
4. At the end of the electrode there is a sponge that absorbs moisture, which must be dipped into a bottle of No. 1 (rust removal solution), and then rub the composition thoroughly over the surface affected by rust. Carry out the procedure until the rust is completely removed.
5. After removing the rust with water, wash off the remaining solution from the surface.
6. Next, you need to disconnect the red electrode and connect the gray one.
7. Take bottle No. 2 (zinc solution), dip the sponge of the second electrode into it and repeat the procedure for applying the solution.
8. Carry out this process until you see a sufficient layer of zinc on the surface of the metal.

As practice shows, the applied layer keeps on the surface of the case for years, preventing rust from appearing and spreading. Therefore, the use of Zincor-Auto and the like is effective method elimination of rust that has appeared on chips and other damage to the paintwork.

Summary

The main thing that every car owner should remember when it comes to car body rusting is that there is always a risk of corrosion. Accordingly, it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the surface of the housing, as well as take preventive measures to prevent the occurrence of corrosion. The best solution V given vein there will be anti-corrosion treatment bodies at the service station.

If you find a source of corrosion and want to get rid of it, then use special converters for this, which can be bought at any auto shop in the auto cosmetics department. The main thing is that in case of detection, do not delay the procedure, but do it as soon as possible. It must be done carefully so as not to leave the slightest area with rust at the site of the lesion.

Many car owners encounter rust spots. The degree of their manifestation most often depends on the conscientiousness of the manufacturer. Even at the factory, workers must apply an anti-corrosion layer - galvanization. If rust has become noticeable, then it is advisable to start fighting it as early as possible. Even after a few months, the situation will be more difficult to salvage. The corrosion process will progress, and this already threatens with costly body repairs.

What influences the appearance of rust and where they appear more often

"Ryzhiki", or as the people also call them - "bugs", appear due to the effects of water, air and static electricity. Based on the foregoing, we can conclude about the significant causes of rust:

• the presence of microcracks in the paint layer;
• inadequate treatment with anti-corrosion agents;
• influence of chemical reagents;
• sand, pebbles, dirt.

By highlighting the main situations when the process occurs, we can determine the most frequent places nasty rust:

• hood;
• thresholds;
• wings.

The hood is usually affected by the vehicles in front. For any, every motorist has seen flying stones, they just kill this part of the body, and sometimes get to the roof. Thresholds and wings we damage ourselves. These body parts are most in contact with substances harmful to the coating - dirt, sand, stones and reagents. By the way, setting non-standard drives and rubber contributes to a greater development of the corrosion process.

In some cars, only a slight localization of rust is visible, in others it is all over the body. The second situation usually occurs with a car after an unsuccessful body repair. Efforts to eliminate them will have to be made much more than in the fight against one or two spots. The owner will have to seriously try, because the amount of work is very large. Each "bug" is usually not a superficial problem. The corrosion process tends to develop deep into the metal.

Ways to eliminate "saffron mushrooms"

To date, for the car owner, there are two ways to eliminate the problem:

1. mechanical method - represents several steps: cleaning, priming, puttying and coating with final layers of paint and varnish;
2. the chemical method is the use of rust converters and galvanizing agents for the body.

It is impossible to do without the use of a mechanical method if the situation is running. All traces of rust are carefully cleaned to the metal. It will be a huge plus if everything is cleaned to a shine.

The chemical method will be win-win in the formation of corrosion in hard-to-reach places. These can be the inner parts of the arches and curvature on the bottom. Depending on the agent used, during the processing, rust may turn into foam or harden, in which case the chemical layer will become a protection from external factors. In the first case, anti-corrosion coatings will only have to remove the foam with a dry cloth or the same, but moistened with water. What effect you want to get from the means to choose for yourself, the attached instructions will come to the rescue.

Before starting work, it is worth assessing the degree of rust damage to the body and determining whether the actions will cost only chemistry. Often there are cases when corrosion has eaten the metal to holes or too thin a layer of metal remains. In such a situation, a whole range of welding work or sealing holes with putty and fiberglass.

Step-by-step complex of works mechanically

Proper and unhurried execution of the process according to this instruction will help you forget about car rust for 1 to 2 years. So, let's define the main work:

• Preparation of tools and materials.
• Primary cleaning of damaged areas.
• Degreasing.
• Soil layer.
• A layer of paint.
• Lacquer layer.
• If necessary - polishing.

List of tools and materials:

• grinder or paper;
• rust converter;
• degreaser (solvent);
• primer with anti-corrosion properties;
• selected paint color (single with other parts, in a can);
• varnish that does not have pigment (in the form of a spray);
• in reserve - automotive putty (with hardener).

So, the work is carried out according to the following plan:

1. Cleaning can be done with a sandblasting tool, a drill or a grinder with a special nozzle, and always affordable option- sanding by hand. Thus, we clean off the affected layers to the metal, do everything carefully with smooth transitions and avoid rough scratches. The service life of the repair depends on the thoroughness of the first step.
2. We apply a layer of the converter. This step will remove any remaining rust. Sometimes we do not notice it, but small particles definitely remain after stripping. Usually on this procedure you can spend about 30 - 40 minutes.
3. Degrease the surface with a solvent.
4. We make the repaired area perfectly flat. We fill all the irregularities in the form of scratches with putty in several layers. Each layer is dried according to the instructions, and polished. We skin paper with different percentages of abrasiveness, this will help to achieve the desired result.
5. Let's get to the fun part. We cover the surface of the body with a film or paper within a radius of 1 m, fasten everything with masking tape - this is a kind of security measure so that liquids are not sprayed on the entire body. We ensure the absence of dust and small debris.
6. When choosing a soil, you should pay attention to the color. We stop at the option with an approximate color to the body, that is, for a white car, you do not need to take black primer. We apply the material in 2 - 3 layers. Spraying is carried out horizontally at a distance of 20-30 cm from the surface, excluding sags and drips. Dry each layer for 15 to 20 minutes summer time, in other cases, use the instructions.
7. We paint the car. We spray paint and varnish on the designated area. The application technique is similar to primer spraying (same number of coats and spacing).
8. The final point is recommended to apply car polish. It will smooth out all visible imperfections after painting. We offer the application method - with a suede cloth or a special soft nozzle on the tool.

Chemical way of fighting

This method eliminates preparatory work for surface cleaning. According to the manufacturers, this tool eliminates rust and prevents its new appearance. Chemistry is applied for 30-40 minutes, then removed with a cloth or washed off. This method is good for the initial stages, otherwise, for an advanced case, you still have to clean, putty and polish.

How to remove the "saffron milk" and "bugs"

To date, there are no known miracle cures for removing rust stains. "Ryzhik" just seems like a trifle. Under it lies the entire process of corrosion.

In the goods market you can find Anti-Rust paste, the same converter. The use of such a tool will clean the surface of visible red traces, but it is not capable of defeating the focus. This method is good before selling the car, since the appearance of stains is noticed already 2 to 6 weeks after applying the paste.

Some individuals manage to prolong the effectiveness of the remedy. They additionally apply varnish on top of the paste. Such a trick would be appropriate if the converter managed to erase all traces of rust, which happens in rare cases.

When a car is dear to you, and you are not going to sell it, then it makes sense to think about the physical work on the car. Use one of the methods deep elimination rust.

Preventive measures to prevent corrosion

We offer car owners a list of actions that will help prevent the entire preparatory and painting procedure described above:

• frequent car wash, not excluding winter time years (a plus will be the application of wax, which can significantly increase protection from adverse external factors);
• tracking the initial signs, their minor repairs a small area will eliminate high costs and time;
• providing the car with mudguards and fenders;
• application anti-corrosion material on the bottom of the car.

Video

car in modern world is no longer a luxury, but a necessary assistant. However, even when purchasing, the driver is not immune from the fact that signs of corrosion may appear on the surface of the body quite soon. And even factory anti-corrosion coating will not be able to protect the metal from rust for a long time. To be ready to solve the problem, it is important to know how to remove rust from the car body and localize its spread.

No car is immune from the appearance of rust on its body.

Why does metal corrosion occur?

Metal corrosion can occur on the car body in the most unexpected places, sometimes invisible to the eye. Why is this happening? Let's highlight a few key factors that cause the problem:

1. Lack of protection from external negative factors.
2. Scratches, minor damage from small stones flying from under the wheels of the car in front.
3. Atmospheric precipitation, dirt, dust, chemicals, which cover the roads in the cold season, quickly lead to the occurrence of centers of metal corrosion.

Also affect the condition of the body, especially in winter. Many drivers don't have garages and leave their iron horse right next to your home or best case in a guarded parking lot equipped with awnings. In this case, one should not be surprised at the rapid appearance of rust.

You can also note the fact that it is rare that the driver regularly cleans the bottom of the car from adhering dirt, snow, sand and asphalt particles. And about the periodic application of anti-corrosion coatings to this part of the body protective compounds and there is nothing to say.

Types of corrosion foci on the body

To get rid of rust, it is important to understand that metal corrosion can be different and the method of dealing with it depends on its type. There are the following manifestations of corrosion:

• Cosmetic - most often occurs where there is contact between metal and overhead elements (lanterns, moldings, grilles, bumpers, etc.). Outwardly, it looks like swelling, peeling, clouding or cracking of the paintwork. Timely identification of the problem will allow you to quickly solve it.
• Underfilm - up to a certain point, the problem is hidden under the paint. Outwardly, it looks like swollen bubbles. If you ignore such corrosion, then over time, rust in this place will “eat” in the body through hole.
• Spot - outwardly, such a lesion looks like small scaly dots. The development of such corrosion is initially carried out deep into the metal, and then in breadth.
• Spotted - the initial stage of corrosion, which quickly covers a large area and then begins to develop in depth. The last stage develops into a through type of metal damage.
• Through - this type of corrosion is formed when the owner of the car does not pay attention to the problem and starts pitting, spotting or under-film corrosion. This is already considered the final stage of metal destruction. Through holes are formed on the surface of the body and it can be easily pierced with a solid object.

Places of localization of rust

There are the most common places where rust appears and begins to destroy metal. This:

• frame;
• hood and trunk;
• wheel arches and fenders;
• floor under the driver's feet and seats;
• doors;
• places in contact with overhead elements;
• sills and bottom.

In order to timely detect lesions and remove rust at the earliest stage, it is recommended to regularly (once a week, a month) inspect specified places car.

The main ways to deal with rust

Based on the depth of penetration and type of corrosion, the following rust control methods can be distinguished:

1. Hardware polishing. Runs, whose disk provides a very high speed grinding. In this case, the paintwork is cleaned down to the metal itself.
2. Sandblasting treatment. This method just perfectly penetrates into all the pores of the material and cleans the details. At the same time, the structure of the metal surface and its thickness are not violated.
3. Hand sanding. Manual processing is carried out with sandpaper or a metal brush. You can also use abrasive discs and scotchbrite. This method is effective but labor intensive.

Tools and materials for rust removal

To remove rust with your own hands you will need the following materials and tools:

• grinder or drill;
• sandpaper;
• putty;
• rust converter;
• anti-corrosion primer;
• degreaser;
• rags;
• dye;
• paper, tape.

Work algorithm

Having all the tools and materials, you can begin to deal with rust on the body. If you decide to carry out activities at home, then it is best to do this with good lighting. In some cases, work can also be done outdoors. It is only important that the weather is warm, dry and windless.

If it is necessary to clean the rust on the body, then a pit or overpass will be needed.

In general, to stop rust, the master will need to perform the following steps in the procedure:

1. Initially, the car must be thoroughly washed and dried. After that, inspect the surface and identify any lesions on the surface.
2. Next is the cleaning of the body. To do this, use a tool with special nozzles or sandpaper (coarse-grained and fine-grained). It is necessary to treat rust on the car body in such a way as to slightly capture the areas adjacent to the affected area.
   If there are swollen bubbles, then the peeled paint is initially removed, and only then the surface is cleaned until there is no trace of corrosion left.
3. Next, the cleaned areas are cleaned of dust, degreased and covered with a converter. Such a rust remover may be zinc-based or acid-based. It is necessary to use a transducer in order to cover the metal protective layer, and exclude further occurrence and the spread of corrosion at the site. To know how to remove rust in the most efficient way, you should study the reviews of consumers of converters or seek the advice of a specialist.
4. After using the transducer, the surface must be degreased again. Next, you can start working with putty to perfectly level the surface. If there are through holes, then fiberglass should be used.
5. Next, the flat surface of the body is ground and primed in 2–3 layers and, after complete drying, is degreased.
6. The last step is to paint the surface. To tint a very small area, you can use special pencils. More voluminous areas can be painted with an aerosol can, choosing the right paint color.

Corrosion Prevention

In order to protect your car from rust and to carry out measures to remove it as little as possible, it is important to take preventive measures. It is worth regularly applying a protective coating to the most vulnerable areas of the body, such as:

• thresholds;
• wheel arches;
• internal cavities of doors;
• bottom.

The protection of individual sites is somewhat different. For example, the bottom is treated with one tool, and the thresholds with another. Body paint treatment has also been proven to be effective. In addition, they not only protect the bodywork, but also give the surface an attractive appearance. appearance.

Summing up, we can conclude that if you use the above tips for removing corrosion from the car body, you will be able to maintain the beautiful appearance of the car and extend its life. Modern materials and the technologies used make it possible to get rid of rust quite simply and quickly. However, this must be done on time, in the early stages of detecting a problem.

Rust— It's like a cancerous tumor but only for the car. Over time, rust just kills the car. It can appear on both old and new cars. Both budget and foreign automobile industry cars are subject to corrosion. Even a solid factory anti-corrosion coating does not always give a 100% guarantee that rust will not appear on the car.

Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the safety of the paintwork and do not forget to regularly inspect the nooks and crannies of the car. After the appearance of the first so-called "bugs", you can determine the rust with a more detailed examination and in many other places, and this is very fraught with money, if you do not immediately react. The sooner you start to fight it, the more likely you are to avoid it. through corrosion. You can easily get rid of rust at home if the damage is not too great.

How to deal with rust with your own hands quickly and effectively

First you need to carefully remove all dirt and dust from the damage site. Despite the fact that you remove rust only in one place of the body, then the whole car needs to be cleaned. It is best to trust the professionals and wash your car under high pressure. Once the car is dry, you can confidently start removing the rust.

How and what to get rid of rust

Before you begin work, you should glue strips of masking tape around the damaged area, which will protect against accidental damage to the paintwork.

Mechanical cleaning of rust. Next, you need to remove all loose and layered rust, and also clean the metal from swollen paint and primer. If the damaged area is not too large, then it is quite possible to get rid of rust with the help of a brush or a coarse-grained skin. If the area is quite large, then it is more convenient to use a grinder or a drill with a special metal brush attachment.

Rust converters. This method of getting rid of rust is also quite common. The use of rust converters is especially important when, due to inaccessibility, it is not possible to completely remove rust. mechanically. Today, it is not a shortage to find a good converter, they are available in almost all auto shops. Be sure to pay attention to the methods of application and the consequences that it gives, because after some means it is necessary to wash everything off with water, after applying others, you must immediately start puttying.

Putties for cars. If the corrosion was very strong and after complete removal loose rust formed a considerable size recesses, and possibly through holes, it is best to use a special putty with fiberglass. Attention, Before applying putty, the metal must be degreased. A large number of fillers are two-component and should be mixed immediately before use, so the mass will harden very quickly. After it dries, the putty is carefully leveled with P80-P120 sandpaper.

Finishing primer. After you degrease the metal, the last primer is applied, which is not only the basis for painting a car, it is also additional protection from rust. The primer must also be sanded to perfect condition, this can be done using a wooden block, which must first be wrapped with P240-P400 sandpaper. If you are grinding a convex surface, then a wooden block is prohibited.

Painting. Of course, it is best, for greater effect, to use spray guns and specially selected repair paint. But since this pleasure is quite expensive, it is possible to paint with aerosol cans, although some experts disapprove of such coloring.

The paint must be applied in thin layers so that there are no streaks, which are then very difficult to get rid of. Each layer must dry. At the final stage, you need to apply varnish in two layers.

The car body is the face of the car, and quite expensive, and one of the troubles when buying a car is corrosion and rust. We will describe the rust removal process and how to protect the car body.

This article is intended for persons over 18 years of age.

Are you over 18 already?

Removing rust from a car body with your own hands is a serious matter that needs to be eliminated, because it significantly spoils the view and, if the focus is not removed on time, it will spread further. Many people think that only professionals at a service station can remove rust from a car body. However, it is not. It is quite possible to cope with this trouble on your own if you know all the subtleties of the process and follow certain rules.

Causes and locations of rust on the car body

There are many reasons for rust. All cars are made of metal, and are subject to corrosion and rust on the surface. Factors leading to the appearance and resistance of the surface to these damages, a large number of. In order to prevent and eliminate the appearance of rust, you need to know from what it appears and understand how the process of metal rusting occurs.

The composition of the metal from which the car body is made is an important factor occurrence of a defect. Some substances tend to oxidize quickly, which leads to rust. Other compositions include materials that slow down the oxidation process.

The main reason for the appearance of rust is an unseasoned drying stage during painting or chipped / worn paint on the body. Such places are most susceptible to corrosion, as chemistry gets there and begins to corrode the metal.

The climatic conditions of the region of operation play an important role in the occurrence of rust. The higher the humidity and the amount of precipitation, the higher the likelihood of corrosion on the car. In the subtropics, the appearance of rust on cars is quite common, but the inhabitants of the equatorial belt were more fortunate.

Temperature fluctuations are another risk factor. The reason for everything is the banal condensate, which is formed not only outside, but also in hidden places of the car, thereby contributing to the appearance of rust, because it loves moisture so much.

The better pavement the less chance of corrosion. Everything is simple here. When the car is moving, the body is subject to mechanical impact small pebbles, which, falling on the surface, damage the paintwork layer. Damaged paint exposes moisture to exposed metal, causing it to rust.

Salt and chemicals used in winter also have a negative effect on damaged areas of the body.

Salt and chemicals used in winter also have a negative effect on damaged areas of the body. Wash your car more often to not think later than to remove rust from the car body.

Fans of all kinds of tuning, who decorate their "iron friend" with various hinged "bells and whistles", should worry about the safety of their "horse". All these attached "bells and whistles" violate the integrity protective coating, and increase the accumulation of dirt and dust. All this contributes to the emergence of new foci of corrosion.

How can rust be removed

How to get rid of rust on a car body is of interest to more than one driver who has encountered a problem, but wants to fix everything with my own hands, and not drive the car to the service station.

There are only two ways to prevent corrosion:

• mechanical;
• chemical.

In the first case problem areas removed using tools, in the second - special preparations. Sometimes both of these methods are combined.

Mechanical rust removal

Popular folk remedies and methods in the fight against rust

Interested in how to remove rust from a car with your own hands, you can hear about a variety of techniques and methods. Someone takes the car to specialists and picks up the finished one. Some people try to do everything on their own. Consider the most popular folk methods combating such an ailment as corrosion:

1. Mix vinegar and lemon juice. Mix them in equal proportions and apply for an hour and a half. Next, you need to wash off the mixture and dry the surface.
2. Apply salted potatoes to the stain for fifteen minutes.
3. Mix soda with water to a thick slurry and apply for 20 minutes.
4. Dissolve Alka-Seltzer tablets and treat the problem surface.
5. Ketchup or tomato paste will cope with small corrosive areas in fifteen minutes.
6. Soda, the most popular is Coca-Cola.

Mechanical protection method

Way of self mechanical elimination rust on a car is the most effective. They can remove almost any damage of a corrosive nature. Unlike chemical method, even deep bugs can be mechanically removed. The mechanical method allows you to eliminate the problem, if not forever, then for sure for several years.

Surface degreasing

Execution steps:

• cleaning damaged areas from rust;
• metal cleaning and grinding;
• surface degreasing;
• puttying;
• ground cover;
• fine grinding;
• body painting;
• finishing varnish.

To clean the corrosive surface, you will need a special sandblasting machine. When processing the damaged area with sand under pressure, there are no dents, so the process of further puttying will be faster.

When cleaning large areas, a grinding machine is used. Gently, with the help of a fine-grained nozzle, damage is eliminated. Coarse-grained discs should not be used, because in combination with high turnover grinders can make a through hole on the body.

Another tool that will be useful in processing is a metal brush. You can use a drill to work with it. This will greatly speed up the process.

Disc brush for drill

Sandpaper is used for sanding. Be sure to use it correctly. First coarse-grained, then gradually reduce the graininess.

Proper cleaning should leave clean, shiny metal.

Rust removal work is divided into several stages:

• Washing the car and thoroughly inspecting the body for damage.
• Cleaning off old paint and removing rust with a grinder.
• Degreasing.
• Treatment with a special rust remover and degreasing again.
• Treat large corrosion holes with fiberglass putty.
• Puttying and drying.
• Application of three layers of anti-corrosion primer.
• At minor damage you can skip the puttying process and immediately proceed to the primer.
• Sanding the soil.
• Degreasing.
• Surface painting.

Surface painting

We examined in detail how to remove rust from a car body. If everything is done correctly, a problem such as rusty car, you will not be touched for many years. It will take several days to process. It should be noted that rust from the surface must be removed without residue, otherwise the problem will return again and very quickly.

Method of getting rid of corrosion by chemical means

Removing rust from a car body can be done using a chemical method. It is good in that it significantly saves time and effort spent on this procedure. But there are also disadvantages, it is not suitable for difficult cases, since with a deep damage to the surface, the chemical reaction may not go completely, but only to a depth of about 1 mm.

Apply to the corroded area special agent that removes rust from the surface. The components of the drug enter into a chemical reaction with iron oxides and eliminate them. Care must be taken when working with personal protective equipment, as the means are very aggressive.

The end of the action of the drug can be seen by the characteristic gray coating that forms on the treated surface. At the end of the work, it is washed off with plain water.

Recently, special chemical compositions- the so-called converter-primers or glass putty, which do not need to be removed after the process of getting rid of rust. They are even specially applied under paint as a primer to protect the body.

Rust converter 0.5 l

How can I remove the "saffron milk" and "bugs"

"Ryzhiki" and "bugs" are all the same notorious rusty spots that, spreading over the surface, mercilessly corrode the metal of the car body. The accumulation of many small spots is much more difficult to deal with than one large one. In addition, these specks have the properties not to spread in breadth, but to grow in depth, which complicates the process of struggle.

Remove "bugs" with "saffron milk caps" in two ways:

• mechanical;
• chemical.

The mechanical method of removal consists in cleaning the surface, its priming, puttying and painting. At chemical removal use special preparations. Before removing the "bugs", you need to check how deep the damage has gone. Chemical method with deep exposure to rust is not effective. They can't be removed deep damage. Mechanically, it is required to remove corrosion to bare metal. It is desirable to process the body area to a shine.

Prevention and protection of the car

Do not neglect preventive methods of rust protection. It is much cheaper and faster than removing rust on a car. Moreover, rusty spots, like a fungus, grow quickly and bring a lot of trouble and material costs.

car paint protection film

There are quite real and simple methods of prevention that will help to avoid the appearance of this trouble. For some reason, some car owners stubbornly ignore them without using:

• anti-corrosion treatment and protection of the bottom of the car;
• coating with anti-gravel film on the hood and roof above the windshield;
• regular visits to the car wash;
• inspection of the car for the level of cleanliness;
• wax to protect the paintwork;
• using fenders and mudguards located on the wheels.

Keep in mind that rust detected and removed in time will save you a lot of time and money. After all, it is much easier to prevent and eliminate the problem at the initial stage than to deal with the consequences. If you start the process of corrosion of the car body, you will have to spend a lot of effort for serious repairs, which also require repainting the car body.