My libral1973 channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/libral1973
Mini tractor engine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wp-8XQotU5w
Homemade mini tractor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rD4fK750nnI&list=PLtx-2ahRP2ZIyfJsV_f-R44mLABAUSyHf
DIY minitractor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0Io9Mx9Ly8
DIY LED lamp: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcRU8X3qIhI
Tags: Homemade, minitractor, do-it-yourself, video, with, engine, from, planets
Homemade tractor with an engine from a motorcycle IZH Planet. Engine cooling converted to liquid...
DIY: Homemade Media Center
Why, in fact, buy media players for thousands of rubles? Instead, you can put a suitable computer in some stylish case and get a box that can not only play media, but everything that computers can do. Yes, there are problems, the process has not yet been particularly worked out by individual enthusiasts - and here are two of these problems: NOISE and HEAT.The media player cannot, must not be noisy. This means that we will have to abandon standard coolers, switch to massive radiators, possibly water cooling(or expensive and reliable silent coolers). Or you just have to put it in a special place, away from sensitive ears.
One of the first attempts: creation of a universal media player based on AMD Duron 600Mhz, 128Mb DRAM, ASUS V7100PRO 32Mb video, CD/DVD-ROM, HDD, to start with GeexBox v1.x.
It is housed in a case from an old VCR (which, by mistake, was cut off the excess from the sides). Fastening boards and other units to the case was done with a hot-melt adhesive gun - quickly and simply. A small heatsink with a cooler was removed from the video card and a large heatsink for passive cooling was installed.
Homemade walk-behind tractor with a motorcycle engine, video...
How to make a homemade walk-behind tractor with a ZID engine, video and photos ... with your hands from the planet's engine; Do-it-yourself walk-behind tractor from a motorcycle video ... If you use a cargo trolley, then the walk-behind tractor becomes a mini tractor.
Homemade super-maneuverable tractor. - Youtube
A home-made minitractor with a motorcycle engine ... Probably better to use from IZH-Planet, or another low-speed one ...
In the manufacture mini tractor the main attention was paid to the reliability of the design, but I wanted to appearance would be appropriate, and to work on it was easy and convenient. All units mini tractor mounted on a homemade simple trapezoidal frame (its front part is slightly narrower in relation to the back).
The frame is based on two spars, as well as front and rear traverses (the latter also has console outlets). Both spars and traverses are made of rolled steel channel No. 12 (wall height - 120 mm, shelf width - 52 mm). From the rest of the same channel, two front cross members were also made.
Auxiliary (not power) elements of the frame are made of suitable rolled products that were available at that time, mainly from corners of various assortments. A subframe, several brackets and racks are welded to the frame, necessary for installation on it power unit and transmission units. The engine subframe consists of two pairs of struts welded to spars on opposite sides of the frame.
The pairs are interconnected at the top by links. All details are made from a corner 50x50 mm. A lot of holes of various diameters are drilled in the frame. Most of them are made in place during the installation of units and assemblies, so they are not shown in the drawing. The rear axle is rigidly attached to the frame with shoes welded to the stocking of the beam directly under the side members.
Each shoe is bolted to the spar with four M12 bolts (two on either side of the beam). A bushing is welded to both shoes, which serves to connect to the frame rear linkage, on which, in turn, agricultural implements, in particular a plow, are mounted.
For aggregation mini tractor with other tools (for example: horse rakes, cargo trolley) a fork-eye made of narrowed steel channel 180x70 is welded to the rear traverse. Tools cling to the tractor with an L-shaped kingpin. The front axle suspension, although rigid, is articulated. To do this, an eyelet is welded to the bridge beam, with the help of which the beam is suspended on the axis in a specially welded fork.
The fork, in turn, is screwed with M12 bolts to the front traverse and frame cross member in the middle between the side members. The power unit (interlocked: engine, clutch mechanism, gearbox) with a power of 18 hp - from the Izh-Planet motorcycle with forced air cooling of the cylinder. The fan with a casing is used from the engine of a motorized carriage SZD.
To dock the nodes, the cylinder had to be modified - the vertical jumpers connecting the cooling fins were removed from it, and the holes for the mounting studs were shifted along the same circle at an angle determined "in place". On the cylinder head, I partially cut off the cooling fins, fitting it to the size of the blower casing. The engine on the frame is mounted transversely.
The exhaust system is self-made, the muffler was made from a 10-liter fire extinguisher, stuffed with metal shavings. Electrical equipment: generator, switch, ignition coil - used from the Voskhod motorcycle. The transmission used another (additional) gearbox - from the GAZ-51.
Transfer of torque from the "planetary" power unit to an additional gearbox-chain. The engine output sprocket has 16 teeth, and the driven sprocket has 20 teeth, that is gear ratio i = 1.25. The chain drive is enclosed in a casing. On the gearbox housing there is a power take-off shaft gearbox, from which the mower is driven. rear axle mini tractor also used from the GAZ-51 car, it has been modified (shortened).
Wheel tires - from GAZ-53 with a road tread pattern and a softer cord than regular ones. In my opinion, with a small tractor weight (mine is a little more than 500 kg), the herringbone tire tread does not give any particular advantages.
Torque transmission from additional checkpoint on the rear axle is carried out cardan shaft, borrowed from the GAZ-66 car (front, shortened). Front axle used from an electric forklift (on it it was rear, but with guide wheels). Although he is heavy, he didn’t have to do it himself, and besides, he is “indestructible”.
The forward directing wheels - from the car "Zaporozhets". Main brake cylinder And worm gear the steering mechanism was used from the GAZ-51 car, and the rest of the steering components and parts were from the GAZ-53. Is it true, lateral thrust made from stretch from a stroller ( side trailer) of the Izh-Jupiter motorcycle, and the tips on it are the Moskvich-412 pulls.
Due to the fact that the suspension of the wheels (or rather the bridges) on the frame is rigid, the seat had to be made sprung. He installed it on two spring-hydraulic shock absorbers taken from the rear suspensions: the rear one from the Izh motorcycle, the front one from the Minsk motorcycle.
In the interval from the seat to the engine on the frame, I arranged a floor made of corrugated steel sheet 1.2 mm thick. I installed brackets for control pedals on the floor: clutch, brake, "gas". Before plowing with right side from the axis between the beam rear axle and a spacer is placed on the right side member - three tubes with a diameter of 28 mm and a length of 90 mm, interconnected by welded plates.
The spacer is attached to the frame with long bolts. Now, when plowing, the right wheel goes down in the furrow, the left one is higher in the virgin soil, and mini tractor- relatively horizontal. To connect agricultural implements to the tractor, in addition to the forkop, a hitch with a manual mechanical drive raising and lowering implements. The drive is a vertically mounted screw gate.
The screw part of it, as well as the nut welded from below to the linkage jumper, were used from a large metalwork vice. A bracket (not shown in the figure) is welded on the right side of the frame in its middle part for attaching a modified and adapted former horse-drawn mower.
The tractor, together with trailed units, is delivered to the hayfields in the back of truck. It is faster and safer than driving on your own, and is not against the rules of the road.
The layout of the mini-tractor: 1 - rear wheel (from the GAZ-53.2 car); 2-forkop; 3-wing rear wheel(steel sheet s1, 2 pieces); 4-frame; 5- steering; 6-wall engine compartment(steel sheet s0.5.2 pieces); 7-power unit, N = 18 hp (from the motorcycle "Izh-Planet"); 8-front wheel (from the car "Zaporozhets", 2 pcs.); 9-casing chain transmission (steel sheet s1); 10- additional box gear changes (from GAZ-51); eleven - brake drum(from GAZ-51); 12-cardan shaft (from GAZ-66, front, shortened); 13 - front fender (steel sheet s1, 2 pcs.); 14-front axle (from electric loader); 15-front suspension fork (welded part); 16-headlight (from an industrial tractor, 2 pcs.); 17-sprung seat; 18 rear axle (from GAZ-51); 19-front fender mudguard (rubber, sheet s5, 2 pcs.)
Frame: 1-forkop-eye (channel 180x70, narrowed); 2-rear traverse (channel 120x52); 3-spar (channel 120x52, 2 pcs.); 4-jib (corner 45x45.2 pieces); 5-tie (corner 63x40); 6-bolt (pipe 088); 7-front support of the rear wing (corner 63x63, 2 pcs.); 8-footboard (corner 63x63); 9- crossbars (channel 120x52); 10-rear support of the front wing (corner 25x25, 2 pcs.); 11 - engine compartment portal (corner 50x50); 12-mounting cross member (pipe 028); 13-front traverse (channel 120x52); 14-rack fuel tank (corner 25x25, 2 pcs.); 15-rack engine subframe (corner 50x50.4 pieces); 16-frame of the casing of the chain transmission (corner 30x30) with the bearing housing 203; 17-bracket for mounting the gearbox (corner 50x50, 2 pcs.); 18-fork front suspension (channel 140x58, channel 120x52); 19-shoe rear suspension(channel 220x80, tapered)
Axle suspensions: a-rear shoe: 1-block (channel 180x70, narrowed); 2-hitch connection bushing (pipe 30x20); 3-beam (stocking) of the rear axle; 4-kerchief (steel sheet s4, 2 pcs.); 5-pad (steel sheet s4.2 pcs.); b-front fork: 1 - block (channel 140x58); 2-front fork feather (channel 120x52); 3-rear fork leg (channel 120x52); 4-pivot bushings (from the fluid coupling of a KamAZ vehicle)
Hinge for connecting agricultural implements to the tractor: 1 - traverse (corner 75x75); 2-spar (channel 65x36.2 pieces); 3 jumper (corner 36x36); 4-eye (steel sheet s4.4 pcs.); 5 - hinge card (the second-reciprocal card is attached to a hung agricultural implement); 6-nut (from a bench vise); 7-screw (from a bench vise); 8-thrust bearing; 9-additional screw rod with a welded thrust washer; 10-handle lever; 11 - handle handle; 12-tie frame jib
The frame of the sprung seat on the frame: 1 - seat frame (corner 32x32); 2-strut (pipe with a diameter of 52.2 pieces); 3-tie (steel bar, circle with a diameter of 10); 4-bracket for attaching the strut to the frame (corner 40x40, 2 pcs.); 5 - frame spar (2 pcs.); 6-shoe; 7-beam rear axle; 8-support shock absorber sector (steel sheet s4.2 pcs.); 9-rear shock absorber (from the Izh motorcycle); 10-cardan (from the GAZ-66 car, shortened); 11 - front shock absorber (from the motorcycle "Minsk"); 12 - supporting middle jumper front shock absorber(corner 32x32, 2 pieces); 13-lug attachment rear shock absorber(corner 32x32, 2 pcs.)
Home-made mini tractors with a Ural engine are needed in the country, in the garden or in a small farm. There is no need to buy overall equipment, since it will not pay off the cost of a tractor. But you can assemble a tractor yourself with an engine from an IZH motorcycle. A home-made tractor is usually small in size and is intended to plow in the garden, mow grass, and carry small loads, incl. root crops, garbage and firewood.
The engine from the IZH motorcycle has high power and productivity and is excellent for agricultural work.
Homemade mini tractors
Below we will consider how to make homemade mini tractors with a Ural engine.
Similar types of homemade products are based on the use of an articulated or breaking frame. It is necessary to attach a two-wheeled trolley to the walk-behind tractor, put the steering, which is based on a 4-wheel model drive.
A home-made mini tractor with a motor from the Urals is reliable and powerful, it has the following characteristics:
- A drive axle must be installed on the rear half-frame.
- Chain intermediate reducer.
- Fuel tank.
- Facing.
- Fans installed above each cylinder, which allows you to use the tractor in the heat, work on it for a long time.
How to make a mini tractor with a motorcycle engine with your own hands
The design of a homemade tractor with an engine from a Ural motorcycle is as follows.
The base consists of 2 semi-frames forming a rectangle. The front part should have dimensions of 90x36 cm, and the back - 60x36 cm. You can weld the half-frames yourself using a steel channel. To properly dock the channels, you need to cut the ends at an angle of 45º.
On the front half-frame, you need to install 2 transverse crossbars, which are made from a rectangular pipe. It should measure 5x3 cm, laid flat. Crossbars are needed to make a subframe for the motor.
A wall made of steel should be installed on the half-frame. Brackets and platforms must be welded to the wall, designed to install units, mechanisms, assemblies.
A rack is welded onto the rear half-frame, which can be made from a pipe. Hangers are attached to the rack. They are necessary for fastening attachments. A vertical plate is mounted on the front of the rear half-frame, which is necessary for the swivel assembly. It is reinforced with scarves.
The lower half-frame is covered with a steel deck, and a platform with gas and clutch pedals is welded onto it.
Between themselves, the frames are connected by a turning point, which in structure is a hinge or cardan mechanism.
For the IZH motor, rigid and dependent suspensions, which will allow you to put the wheels right size. provides for the installation of the engine on the transverse crossbars of the front half-frame, which is then bolted through the lugs.
The gearbox is installed side by side, for which you need to use bolts. It is necessary to set the chain clutch correctly in order for the gearbox and speeds to work well. On the first link of the gearbox, you can use the splined end, which is removed from the Moskich gearbox, and the second - from its cardan shaft. spline connection allows you to make the rear shaft much longer.
Next, we will consider how to make homemade mini tractors. It is necessary to put on the frame and steering column which must be firmly bolted. A hole should be made in the bearing adjusting nut, which will allow the column to be connected to the steering wheel.
The engine will be started through an intermediate shaft, at one end of which a shortened kick starter is fixed, and at the other end - thrust.
Cylinders should be equipped with a system forced cooling. A fuel tank, a motor pump, an additional gearbox are used from an IZH or Ural motorcycle.
To make homemade tractor with an engine from a Ural motorcycle, you need to make hinges yourself, using sheet steel for this. These parts should be lowered and raised with a special lever, which is installed on the right side of the operator's seat. The lever must be no more than 55 cm long, which allows you to adjust attachments.
« Homemade mini tractor with an engine from IZH Planeta-3
Drawings of a mini tractor. The chassis is designed to transport various goods for home gardening (both in its own body and in a towed trailer), and in winter - also for snow removal using a front-mounted bulldozer blade.
Description of the design will start with the frame. It is welded mainly from round steel water pipes.
In plan (top view), the frame has the shape of an elongated trapezoid with a large base in front. The frame is based on two straight parallel spars made of a pipe with an outer diameter of 42 mm and a wall thickness of 3 mm. A pair of front crossbars is made of the same pipe: the first is solid, and the second is made of three parts. At the rear, the spars are connected by three short crossbars.
The remaining parts of the frame are made of a thinner tube with an outer diameter of 32 mm and a wall thickness of 2.5 mm. Auxiliary elements (racks, struts, struts, etc.) are made of round pipes 22x2 mm. Various brackets for mounting units and assemblies are made of suitable rolled steel.
For the most part, they were welded to the frame "in place" during the assembly of units and mechanisms of the structure, and therefore the frames are not shown in the drawing. Between the front crossbars at the ends, two brackets are welded, made of a U-shaped profile 50x25x50 mm.
The hubs of the front drive wheels are bolted to them. Ribs (from a 25x25 corner) of a frame box for installing a gearbox are welded to the spars main gear. U-shaped profile brackets for rear axle suspension are welded to the rear crossbars, and two more ears forming a forkop are welded to the closing crossbar at the rear.
On top of the frame (approximately in the middle of its length) a steering column with a bracket for the headlight is fixed by welding, and in the rear part there are legs and frames of the seat and its back. The upper (horizontal) part of the steering rack - the jumper is made of a wide channel - it serves as a dashboard.
From below, in the front part, hanging moldboard racks with eyes (reinforced by struts) are welded, to which a bulldozer blade is suspended. Later, brackets for the handle of the cable winch for lifting (lowering) the blade, the levers for switching the reverse and the mechanism for preventing rollover (locking) of the body were welded to the steering rack in place.
The mechanism itself is a lever with a groove that goes beyond the protruding shelf of the corner of the body frame, and a locking button. I draw Special attention on the necessary reliability of the entire assembly - spontaneous tipping of the body on the go threatens with big troubles, especially when driving downhill. Under the rack between the spars on two brackets, the steering mechanism from the FDD motorized stroller is fixed.
An engine from the Izh-Planeta-3 motorcycle with a power of 18 hp was used as a chassis power unit. Its cylinder equipped homemade device forced air cooling with an 8-bladed fan in the shroud. The fan is driven from the elongated crankshaft of the engine through V-belt drive(from washing machine). The engine is located under the seat, and it is attached to the frame through special welded brackets, which allow it to be moved with a screw to tension the transmission chains.
The engine has been changed regular system ignition. Instead of a "single-spark" coil, a "two-spark" coil from a K-750 motorcycle and, accordingly, a second spark plug on the cylinder head were installed. Operation has shown that the decompressor is no longer needed by the engine, it is enough to monitor the cleanliness and serviceability fuel system and carburetor. Engine failures due to lack of spark in the glow plug have virtually disappeared, which used to be common.
The fastening of the interrupter board has also been changed - now it is mounted on the generator shaft in a sliding fit and can be rotated at a certain angle, thereby regulating the ignition. The breaker board is attached to the generator stator with elongated screws, which are then fixed with wire brackets soldered to them.
Owners of single-cylinder "izhs" are well aware of the reverse blows of the kickstarter lever, which sometimes leads to serious injury. This alteration completely eliminates this unpleasant phenomenon. Before starting the engine, the board is switched to “late” ignition with the help of a lever, brought out through the generator casing, and after the engine warms up, it returns to its place.
On the lever, at the point where it exits the generator cover, there is a locking flag, which with its protrusion falls into the groove on the cover, thereby ensuring a stable position of the board lever at the desired ignition angle. To fine-tune the moment of breaking the contacts of the breaker, the flag is made movable. According to this principle, all single-cylinder Izhi engines that I use have been redesigned.
The muffler was used from the Buran snowmobile, it is compact and quite effective. Trimmings are welded to standard muffler inlet pipes exhaust pipes with union nuts from Izh-PZ. Since the engine is located at the rear of the chassis frame, and the drive wheels are front, the transmission of torque from the power unit to the main gear had to be carried out through a two-stage chain drive with an intermediate gearbox. Chains are widened, combine. From a combine and a large (Z = 53 teeth) sprocket on one end of the intermediate shaft.
At the other end of the shaft, an asterisk Z-15 is installed from the rear wheel of the Izh motorcycle. In addition, a brake drum (welded to a motorcycle sprocket) from the wheel of the Vyatka scooter is mounted on the intermediate shaft. The brake cover is homemade, and the pads are standard scooter ones.
The shield is attached to the frame through two brackets in the form of paws. At the same time, the possibility of orientation (small movement and rotation) of the shield with pads relative to the drum is provided. The intermediate gearbox itself can also be moved along the side members of the frame to tension the chain going to the main gear. The main gear (or reverse gear) is used from cargo scooter"Ant".
It has been modernized: instead of the standard narrow gears of the differential and reverse gears, widened from wheelchair FDD. Of course, if you strictly monitor the weight of the cargo every time and do not abuse tractive effort power unit (and he, by the way, is capable of heavy loads), then these alterations of the reverse gear are not required. The drive sprocket of the main gear (it is also the driven sprocket of the second stage of the chain drive) is also taken from a wheelchair.
The transmission of rotation from the main gear to the drive wheels is carried out through a pair of rather sophisticated semi-axes, each consisting of two standard elastic cardan joints with a short splined shaft between them, with a segment of the splined coupling welded to the second joint (closest to the wheel), connected to the hub shaft. The last parts (spline coupling, shaft and hub) are used from the launcher tractor DT-75.
A flange with studs for fastening the drive wheel is welded to the end of the hub shaft. Of course, the axle shaft is rather complicated, and if, for example, an elongated hub is made, then the second hinge is not required. But I proceeded from what was available. The front drive wheels are used from a UAZ car. But their tires are modified into a deep “checkered” for better grip with soil on arable land, off-road and in muddy conditions. At the same time, the tires have also become much lighter. I think that these tires are very suitable for all-terrain vehicles.
The technology for their manufacture is described in No. 9 "2008 of the Model Designer. The rear axle of the chassis has the shape of an isosceles triangle, because two identical struts from a 32x2.5 mm pipe with a bushing at the vanishing point are welded to the beam (pipe 42x3 mm). Exactly the same bushing is also in the middle of the beam on top.By means of these bushings, the rear axle is suspended on the frame brackets with the help of cotter pins.
Such a suspension allows the rear (and front) wheels to copy the track profile well without twisting the frame, and does not allow any of them to hang over the recesses. At the ends of the rear axle beam, racks from a channel are mounted, to which the steering knuckles are attached, and brackets from the corners are welded to the racks from above for the installation of rear mudguard wings here.
The rear steered wheels and steering knuckles (as well as the steering gear and tie rods) are used from the FDD motorized stroller. Of these nodes dismantled as unnecessary brake mechanisms. Of course, the wheels from the stroller are much smaller than the UAZ ones in diameter, which reduces cross-country ability, but on the other hand, maneuverability is higher with them, and this is much more important for a backyard car.
To the beam of the rear axle, to the right of the middle, a glass is welded, in which an L-shaped lever is mounted on bearings, one end of which is driven by a longitudinal rod from the steering rack, and the other end moves two transverse steering rods of the corresponding wheels. In view of big move beams in motion mini tractor By difficult areas path, diameter rear wheels cannot be increased without increasing the width of the rear axle due to the mudguards resting on the engine when extreme positions. Body tractor- welded.
Its frame is made of various corners and sheathed with sheet steel 1.5 mm thick. All corners on the top of the body are rounded to prevent injury. Approximately 1/3 of the length of the body from the front side, two bushings are welded from below to the transverse corner of the frame, with the help of which it is suspended through the pins to the lugs welded to the first cross member of the tractor frame.
The wings of the front drive wheels are welded directly to the body, they have several functions - they expand the loading area, serve as splash protection and increase the rigidity of the body itself, since on tractor sometimes you have to transport large loads. For transportation of bulk materials, I place most of the volume on the front of the body, which allows it to be easily tilted forward almost vertically without additional devices.
The sloping front wall and inward-mounted mudguards help to discharge materials almost completely, especially when the tractor is reversed. Electrical equipment is standard six-volt. Established also a carburetor and an air cleaner. The ignition switch connects the battery at the same time. Here, on the shield, there is a toggle switch for turning on the headlights and rear light.
On it are installed pilot lamps"neutral" and generator operation. Also increase safety and reflectors mounted on the body. Controls include pedals: "gas", brake and clutch. It should be noted that the “gas” pedal is additionally spring-loaded: this is necessary for more precise control of engine speed in dirty conditions and when driving off-road.
On the shield in front of the steering wheel there is a reverse control lever. Through two rigid rods and an intermediate L-shaped lever mounted above the steering gear, the reverse gear is switched. The lever itself on the reverse is spring-loaded for better fixation in extreme positions in shaking conditions.
The manual winch for lifting and lowering the blade is a roller with a small drum with cheeks that prevent the cable from coming off. The roller rotates in a glass with bearings, the glass is welded to the headlamp bracket. The winch control handle is pressed by a leaf spring against a gear wheel welded to the cup-hub of the roller, and serves to lock the handle with a tooth that enters the gear cavities (the gear itself is from a children's bicycle).
The cable is wound onto the winch drum through a roller installed at the bottom at the edge of the body and then through the same roller located on the first cross member of the frame. mini tractor, pulls on the blade frame cross member. The blade is suspended to the tractor frame in two brackets-ears of hanging racks.
To do this, there are bushings at the ends of the suspension stops of the blade, which are inserted into the lugs of the brackets and are fastened here with pins with a cotter pin. The blade itself is simple, I just want to note that an increase in its mass is undesirable - this leads to an increase in efforts on the handle of its rise. For this reason, the suspension stops with crossbars that make up the blade frame are made of thin-walled pipes, with the exception of the lower corner of the main crossbar, and the shield is made of duralumin.
Removable rubber strips are attached to the bottom of the blade, they have a 30 - 40 mm outlet from below to soften impacts on bumps. IN top position the blade is pressed against the body and does not sway when the tractor is moving. Of course, with the blade installed, the body can no longer tip over, but in winter the transportation of bulk cargo is extremely rare, and if necessary, the blade can be removed in five minutes. For better grip of the wheels when clearing snow, ballast (20-30 bricks) is placed in the body. You can also use snow chains.
As mentioned, the driver's seat reclines to expose the spark plugs, toolbox and reel, as well as facilitating the approach to the carburetor. In the same place, inside the seat frame are fixed standard relay-regulator and terminal block. Behind the seat on a plate bracket welded to the seat frame, secured with clamps fuel tank for 6 liters. Fuel supply - by gravity, through a standard faucet.
Kickstarter lever from Izh-Jupiter, it can be folded without interfering with the driver to shift gears with an elongated lever. The fuel corrector shifter is mounted on the vertical tube of the steering rack, the drive from the corrector to throttle carburetor - Bowden cables. The clutch pedal is connected by a rod to the L-shaped lever, the lever pulls the clutch release cable with its other end. The brakes are actuated from the pedal through two rods with an intermediate link. Both rods are adjustable in length.
To replace the pads, the brake cover can be moved along the second link pipe. In conclusion - about the features of the chassis control. You should not brake hard, which leads to peak loads in the transmission. Spiked tires in the summer have high grip (especially on a loaded tractor), and the brake drum is easily blocked. Dangerous to maneuver in reverse high speed: With rear-steered wheels, the “steering feel” disappears. It should be borne in mind that the reverse gear is noticeably faster than the front one, and therefore, there is less traction.
On loose soils, an unloaded tractor can burrow on slopes. In such cases, you should move in reverse or put ballast in the body. The dimensions and maneuverability of the tractor allows it to “squeeze” literally into any “gap”, and unloading forward by tipping the body and further retreat back are very convenient in a private courtyard, where, as usual, the entire area is used to the maximum.
The low height of the body from ground level is convenient for loading and unloading, and the low center of gravity contributes to the stability of the tractor on slopes. The mini-tractor is also capable of towing a trailer with a carrying capacity of up to 500 kg. The front and rear sides of the trailer are folding, so it can also be used as a dissolution for transporting long loads. I tried to hang a plow on the chassis and plow. It turned out well. But I also have a motor winch for these purposes.
| The layout of units and components of the chassis: 1—front driving wheel(from a UAZ car with tires modified for a “checkered” pattern, 2 pcs.); 2—wheel hub (from UAZ car); 3—body skin (steel sheet s1); 4—white retroreflector (2 pcs.); 5—yellow reflector (2 pcs.); 6—body frame (corner No. 2.5 and No. 3); 7—dashboard; 8—headlight (from the tractor); 9—rudder; 10—intermediate chain reducer; 11—case of the intermediate shaft of the chain transmission (steel sheet s1); 12—air filter; 13—tool box; 14—seat; 15—ignition coil; 16—carburetor; 17 - seat back; 18 - gas tank; 19—engine (from the motorcycle "Izh-Planet-3"); 20—muffler (from the snowmobile "Buran"); 21 — rear wheel wing (steel sheet s1, 2 pcs.); 22—rear steering wheel(from the SZD motorized carriage, 2 pcs.); 23—longitudinal Tie Rod; 24—chains; 25—steering gear (from motorized wheelchair FDD); 26—frame; 27—mudguard front wheel(rubber s5, 2 pcs.); 28—main gear—reverse gear (from cargo scooter "Ant"); 29—axle ( universal joints from a motorized carriage, 2 pcs.); 30—red reflector (2 pcs.); 31 — front fender liner (steel sheet s 1.2 pieces); 32—rear light (purchased product); 33—rear axle; 34—racks steering knuckles(channel No. 5, 2 pcs.); 35—transverse tie rods; 36—engine mounting bracket—motor mount (2 pcs.); 37—forced air cooling system of the engine |
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| Frame(material of details - steel); 1 —spar (pipe 42x3.2 pieces); 2 - longitudinal beam (pipe 32x2.5, 2 pcs.); 3—transverse brace of the blade mounting rack (pipe 32x2.5, 2 pcs.); 4—second front cross member (pipe 42x3); 5—hub mounting bracket (U-shaped profile 50x25x50, 2 pairs); 6—first front cross member (pipe 42x3); 7—body suspension bushing (pipe 22x2, 2 pcs.); 8—ears of installation of a roller of a cable of lifting of a body (sheet s5); 9—box-frame reverse gear (corner 25x25, 2 pcs.); 10—steering column (pipe 32x2.5); 11 —stand jumper—dashboard (curved channel No. 10); 12—seat legs (pipe 32x2.5, 4 pcs.); 13—seat frame (pipe 22x2, 2 pcs.); 14—frame of the seat back (pipe 22x2, 2 pcs.); 15—rear cross member (pipe 42x3, 3 pcs.); 16—hitch—forkop; 17—console for installing the rear light; 18—eye for fastening the sub-frame (sheet s5.4 pcs.); 19—console-loop for installing headlights; 20—hanging moldboard rack (pipe 42x3); 21—blade suspension eye (U-shaped profile 40x50x40, 2 pcs.); 22—longitudinal strut of the hanging mouldboard rack (pipe 32x2.5, 2 pcs.); 23—suspension brackets of the rear axle beam (U-shaped profile 40x50x40.2 pieces); 24—bracket suspension strut rear axle (U-shaped profile 40x50x40) |
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| Dump(material of parts, except where noted—steel): 1—scraper (rubber strip s 10); 2 —shield (AMC s3.5); 3—stand (pipe 25x25, 4 pcs.); 4—strut strut (pipe 25x25, 2 pcs.); 5—additional cross member (pipe 50x25x2, L = 1210); 6 - main cross member (corner 45x45x3, L = 1210); 7—suspension stop (pipe 50x25x2, 2 pcs.); 8—dump suspension bushing (pipe 30x8, 2 pcs.); 9—strut of the additional cross member (pipe 25x1, 2 pcs.); 10—crossbar of movable stops (pipe 30x25x1.5.2 pieces); 11 — cable eyelet |
| Chassis Controls: 1 —clutch pedal; 2—ignition switch; 3 — winch lifting-lowering the body; 4—reverse control lever; 5—rudder; 6—toggle switch for turning on the headlight and taillight; 7—control lamp of the generator; 8—neutral control lamp; 9—location of the air corrector shifter; 10—body stop lever; 11—pedal "gas"; 12—brake pedal |
