Knock the bearing out of the tub of the washing machine. How to remove the bearing from the washing machine drum? Washing machine repair, spare parts

Have you noticed that the washing machine hums and vibrates a lot during operation? Perhaps the reason lies in the worn drum bearings.

The operation of the bearings is designed for a period of 5 to 10 years. Parts do not always reach this deadline and break earlier. In the article, you will learn why this happens and how to pull the bearing out of the washing machine body for replacement.

The bearing fixes the position of the shaft, ensuring its uniform rotation. These small parts take all the load.

If you are wondering how to get the bearing out of the washing machine, then you suspect that it has become unusable. The reason for this could be a damaged gland, which, having lost its tightness, began to let water through. The grease was washed out, which led to corrosion and abrasion of the bearing.

Most users download CMAs on a "can fit" basis. This is wrong, because over time, overloading leads to wear of parts, including bearings. You can notice this by the characteristic rattle. It can be heard when spinning or when scrolling the drum by hand.

Another sign of a bearing problem is a leak. If you find that water is accumulating under the bottom of the washer, it's time to check.

Untimely replacement can lead to damage to the tank by the drum, wear of the cross and shaft. And it's already threatening overhaul, at which you need to install new tank And .

First you need to drain the remaining water from the washer, as you will need to completely disassemble it. Proceed in sequence:

• De-energize the CM by removing the plug from the socket.
• After turning off all communications and shutting off the water supply, drain its remnants from the intake hose.

• Do the same with the drain filter. It is located under the front panel, behind a small hatch or plinth panel. Open the panel by opening the latches with a screwdriver, unscrew the filter, drain the water.

Move the machine away from the wall as far as possible. Now prepare the tool for removing the bearings of the washing machine. You will need:

• a set of slotted and cross-head screwdrivers, possibly hexagonal;
• a set of wrenches and socket wrenches;
• pliers;
• puller;
• hammer and chisel;
• bolt;
• sealant;
• hacksaw for metal.

Before purchasing a puller, make sure the bearing needs to be replaced. Then get a universal puller suitable for dismantling elements of any size.

Buy new part. It could be wheel bearing or any other that suits your model. You can find out the exact numbers and markings after you remove the bearing from the washing machine.

Self disassembly

Having completed the preparation, you can begin to disassemble the SMA. Whatever brand your car is, the principle of repair remains the same.

In some washing machines, in order to pull out the tank, it is not necessary to remove the front panel. But we will describe the most complex disassembly:

• Use a Phillips or Hex screwdriver to unscrew the two screws on the back top cover. Slide it forward and remove it from the case.

• Move to the front. It is necessary to pull out the dispenser tray, which serves to fill the powder. Press the latch in the center and pull the tray towards you at the same time.
• Loosen the screws securing the control panel.
• Using a flathead screwdriver, pry out the plastic latches.
• Without unfastening the wiring from the control unit, place the panel on top of the case. If you still decide to put it aside, first take a picture of the location of the connectors, and then disconnect.
• Open the hatch door. Bend the edge of the sealing rubber - there is a clamp behind it. Pry it off with a screwdriver and pull it out of place.

• Unscrew the two bolts securing the UBL (lock) of the hatch. Running your hand behind the body, disconnect the wiring of the lock. Tuck the cuff inside the tank.
• Unscrew the bolts around the perimeter of the front panel, remove it.

Now you need to eliminate everything that will prevent you from removing the tank. If your model has a heater in the front, disconnect its wiring. Mark the location of the wires with a marker or take a picture.

Also remove the front counterweights of the tank by unscrewing the bolts.

To remove the back panel, unscrew the screws around the perimeter. Set the panel aside. You have access to the details.

• Remove the drive belt first. It's easy: with one hand, pull the belt towards you, with the other, scroll the pulley.

• Secure the drum pulley wheel with a piece of wood to keep it from moving. Loosen the central bolt. Gently pulling the pulley towards you, remove it from the shaft.

• Unfasten the wiring from the electric motor and the heating element, if it is located at the back.
• Unscrew the bolts holding the motor, pull it out of the housing.

Loosen the clamp on the drain pipe and disconnect it from the tank.

It remains to unscrew the shock absorber bolts, which may be located at the very bottom of the case.

Remove the top counterweight by unscrewing the bolts.

Now you need to remove the powder receiver cuvette. Lift it up and disconnect the pipe by loosening the clamp with pliers. Remove the bolts securing the filler valve to the CMA body. Disconnect wires from it. Remove the cuvette together with the valve.

Disconnect the pressure switch hose attached to the tank. If nothing else interferes, lift the tank off the hooks and pull it out through the front or top of the CM housing.

Before you pull the bearing out of the hub, you need to get the drum.

If you have a collapsible tank, simply unscrew the screws around the perimeter and remove the top.

If the tank is soldered, you will have to cut it. For this:

1. Mark places for future self-tapping screws around the perimeter. Make holes for them, so you can additionally fasten the halves of the tank.
2. With the tank on its side, start cutting from the part that is comfortable for you.

After hitting the bushing several times with a hammer, push the drum out of the tank part.

Now you will learn how to remove the bearing from the washing machine drum shaft without a puller:

• Install a chisel on the outer race.
• Tapping on it with a hammer, try to get the bearing.
• If it doesn't pop out, spray it with WD-40 and wait a while.

In order to somehow knock out or remove the inner race of the bearing of the washing machine, you can apply the same method, only directed not at the outer, but at the inner ring of the part. This method can be used if the part cannot be removed with a conventional puller.

However, as a result, another question arises: how to pull out the remaining outer race of the bearing? You can also knock it out or try to pry it off with a puller.

After dismantling, clean the seat - you've done the job. If the part was defective, install a new one in place. Lubricate the sawn drum with sealant around the edges and connect the two parts. Fasten it with screws.

Now you know how to knock out and remove the bearing from the washing machine drum - you can put this knowledge into practice. Video on the topic will help you:

The normal operation of the washing machine is accompanied by a monotonous hum when the drum rotates, creating its own unique melody. If suddenly appeared extraneous sounds, in the form of a whistle, rumble and other incomprehensible noise - it is worth checking the bearings.

Open the door. There is a gap between the drum and the tank. If the drum has big backlash, it is possible that the drum bearings or the stuffing box seal are destroyed. Find out in advance original numbers set of drum bearings, stuffing box seal, tank gasket. Call the service center or specialized shop, indicate the model of the machine.

Disassembly of the washing machine components

For self repair you will need a minimum set of tools:

Adhesive tape, a set of heads, screwdrivers, a multimeter, copper wire with insulation, a set of nylon clamps. Perhaps in the process of work, something else will be needed.

• Turn off the power supply, disconnect the inlet and drain hoses. Remove the top panel, unscrew the two 6mm screws on the back of the machine and remove the cover. Then pull out the dispenser drawer detergents press the latch and remove the dispenser to the side.
• Then pull out the detergent dispenser drawer, press the latch and put the dispenser aside. Remove the control panel. It is attached with 3 screws. Move to the side and take a photo. Attach the panel with adhesive tape to the top of the machine so as not to disconnect the electronics. Attention! Lay out the removed parts in a certain order, it is advisable to shoot the repair process on a phone or camera. Suitable for assembly.
• Next, remove the lower decorative panel and disconnect the drain hose. Then unscrew the screws of the front panel, 2-top and 2-bottom, open the door and remove the clamping wire clamp from the door cuff, remove the cuff and unscrew the two screws, see photo.
• Now slightly lift and remove the front panel, set aside.
• Remove the clamp from the detergent drawer and attach the drawer to the top of the machine. 2 more hoses fit to it, but they do not interfere.
• Then turn out the counterweight screws with a 13 mm head, usually consist of 2 parts and set them aside. See photo.

• Access to the wiring harness of the electric heater heat panel - heating element will open. Let's sketch the position of the connectors or take a picture, release the harness. Unscrew the fixing nut of the heating element, but not completely, slightly press the screw and pull out the heating element.
• Disconnect the hose and wiring harness from the tank, drain the remaining water from the hose, go to the rear screen of the washing machine.
• We remove the screen, the engine opens, we remove the belt from the pulley.
• Before removing the engine, we sketch or photograph the engine connector block, remove the engine, and then the tank itself, which is held on the frame of the car from above on the springs and below on the shock absorbers. We release the lower ones, and then remove the tank along with the drum. Be careful, maybe something else is not disconnected! Free.
• Disconnect the door cuff (this is a kind of adapter module, almost spaceship!). The cuff is pressed against the drum with a spring clamp, pry it off, but do not tear the cuff, remove and turn the drum over so that it is convenient to remove the pulley.
• unscrew the bolt on the pulley shaft with a 13 mm head, remove the pulley, screw the bolt back in, but not completely, and then hit the screw head with a rubber hammer, the shaft will move down. Put something soft inside so as not to damage the drum plastic if the shaft falls.

Most models of machines have a detachable tank, which is connected to studs and plastic clips. If there is a one-piece tank, then it is separated by sawing, which of course will complicate the work. In this case, order this unit as an assembly.

1. Separate the halves of the tank. Release the drum.
2. Place the rear half of the tank on the wooden pads and knock out the outermost small bearing with a chisel.
3. Turn this half of the tank over and knock out the large (front) bearing. Be careful not to damage the bearing seats!
4. After knocking out the bearings, clean the drum and tank. Insert the new bearings into their original seat and gently tap the bearing into the seat on the outer side of the cage (in the direction of the arrow). Strike in a circle evenly and without distortion.
5. Place a new oil seal on top and flip the tank over to install the outer bearing.

Lubricate the seat and install the bearing with outside, gently tapping on the outer edge of the clip.

1. Now in reverse order perform assembly. Make sure the drum shaft is intact. There are models with a cross, which can be removed and replaced along with the shaft. But sometimes they completely change the drum assembly with the shaft.

When assembling the tank, check the seal between the halves of the tank, you may have to install a new one. The place indicated by the arrow, coat with sealant around the entire circumference. See photo.

During the assembly process, all hose connections are checked for leaks so that the machine does not have to be disassembled again. Check the connector pins with a multimeter. Without sufficient experience and skill, it is difficult to cope with such repairs, but knowing the process will not prevent you from making a call and keeping up the conversation about the repair.

A person who is not sufficiently versed in the principles of operation of a washing machine may not pay attention to the functionality of the bearing, since it is not visible to the eye. The work of hidden structures depends on the state of this part.

Expert opinion

The average life of a bearing is 6-8 years. Many experts say that it should be changed every 5 years or at least lubricated. It would be better if the repair of washing machines, the replacement of bearings will be carried out by professional craftsmen who work quickly and efficiently.

Due to improper use of equipment, destruction of the gland and rusting as a result of water leakage, the part fails faster. In the vast majority of cases, bearing failure is caused by increased friction and heating of its components.

Why is it necessary to change the bearing

This part of the washing machine is the most vulnerable. After all, it is with its help that the unit works. You can understand that the bearing is faulty by specific sounds that become stronger over time.

If repairs with a broken bearing have not been carried out for a long time, then the part may fall apart. In this case, its inner ring will remain on the shaft, and the outer one will fall into the tank. How to remove the bearing from the washing machine drum in this case? It is possible to knock out the remains from the tank only with a special sharp tool.

A part not replaced in time violates the integrity of the drum. If the ring on which the stuffing box slid is broken, then there is a high probability that the shaft has become unusable, and replacing the bearing will not lead to positive results. In this case, the cross with the shaft or the drum must be replaced.

When the first signs of a breakdown appear, you should immediately contact the master, as a malfunction can lead to a repair, which will cost you much more. If a bearing failure causes water to leak, it may cause burnout. heating element and electronics systems. In this case, the machine cannot be restored.

bearing replacement cost

How much does it cost to replace a bearing? If the work is carried out by the master, then you will spend from 1000 to 2000 rubles. If a vertical structure breaks down in a car, you will have to pay 1,500 rubles. Replacing a part in a crosspiece costs 1000-1500 rubles. Installing a new bearing in the forecastle costs 2000 rubles.

Bearing cost

If you repair at home, the replacement will be much cheaper. You will have to purchase only new bearings, the price of which varies depending on the region of the Russian Federation.

You should ask about the prices in the service centers of your city or in online stores. It should be noted that bearings, the price of which may differ significantly, are presented in a fairly wide range. They are designed for washing machines from the most different manufacturers. For example, the LG washing machine drum bearing costs from 500 rubles and more. It all depends on the model of the unit.

What tools and materials will be needed

Many are interested in how to remove the bearing from the washing machine drum with their own hands, and what tools will be needed for this. You will find everything you need at home. The work is based on the disassembly of the machine. Much here depends on the company of the unit.

At work you need:

• regular and curly screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• round nose pliers;
• two keys for 17 and 19;
• end heads for 7, 8, 10, 13;
• rubber mallet;
• hex key 6;
• universal screwdriver;
• sealed glue;
• chisel;
• rubber mallet.

Let's start by removing the tank.

First of all, the tank is dismantled. In machines of different manufacturers, this process is carried out in different ways. After removing it, the main nut is unscrewed, and the pulley is removed. A screwdriver removes the screws that hold the two parts of the tank together. After that, they should be carefully unclenched.

The tank is removed from the body of the unit and thoroughly cleaned of scale and dirty deposits. This will provide Good work washing machine after repair. In particular, the ring along which the gland slides is carefully cleaned.

How to remove the bearing

How to remove the bearing from the washing machine drum? After the tank with the drum is taken out, it is necessary to proceed with its disassembly and removal of parts. If there is grease on the drum cover, then this is another confirmation that the bearing and seals need to be replaced.

As mentioned above, the tank consists of two parts. They are connected by bolts or glue. The adhesive-based joint is sawn with care. Much easier to unscrew the bolts.

After disassembling the tank, the following manipulations are performed:

• The drum pulley is unscrewed with an asterisk key, a chisel or a hammer. The bolt is not easy to remove, so it is unscrewed carefully so as not to strip the thread.
• By loosening, the pulley is removed from the drum screw. Below it is a bearing.
• The drum shaft is knocked out inside. Thus, the tank and drum of the machine will be separated. Can be replaced initially new shaft on the old one, so as not to spoil it with hammer blows. The bearings are located on the inside and outside of the drum.

How to knock a bearing out of a washing machine drum? A metal rod is inserted under the bearing race. The part is knocked out with a hammer in a circle. You can resort to using a special puller. With this tool, the bearing is removed easier and faster. You won't damage his clip. It is indispensable in the case when the part is intact, and the shaft is deformed. Usually, the small outer bearing is removed first, and then the large inner one. To remove the latter, the tank is turned over. Before changing the bearings, the seals are changed.

After the parts are removed, install new ones. The work is carried out in reverse order. Before installation, the bearings are lubricated to protect against water. In addition, lubrication will reduce friction between the parts of the unit. First of all, put inner bearing. The elements are recessed by hand, and then carefully knocked out with a rubber mallet or mallet. On the halves of the tank you need to put on new gasket. Sealant should be applied over its entire surface. A pulley is put on the tank and secured with a key. Screws are screwed on the halves of the part.

Washing machines based on stainless steel tanks are much easier to repair. In such models, the bearings are located in the cross or the back of the tank, which is very easy to remove.

Gross mistakes when disassembling the machine and replacing the bearing

Experts have identified a number of the most common mistakes that allow beginners who do not know how to remove the bearing from the washing machine drum correctly. This may cause big problems with repairs and permanently disable the unit.

Let's start listing:

Pay attention to all of the above and try to avoid wrong actions. Replacing the bearings of the washing machine drum can be done on your own. But keep in mind that without having the proper experience in this type of work, you run the risk of disrupting the mechanism of the unit even more. If you are not confident in your abilities, then it is advised to seek help from a specialist.

Repair of washing machines at home

Can parts be replaced on site? Repair of washing machines at home by a specialist takes much less time. After the cause of the malfunction is determined, the master will begin to “resuscitate” the unit, and will not postpone work until later, as is often done in a household appliance repair shop.

In most cases, only one arrival of a highly qualified specialist is enough. The master has everything necessary spare parts. You can verify their originality. After the completion of the repair work, the specialist will definitely turn on the machine and check it in working order. So the correctness of its repair and installation will be checked. A highly qualified master will be able to deal with even the most difficult breakdown within a few hours. He will clearly demonstrate the rules for operating the unit and explain to you what wrong actions on your part led to the failure of the equipment. The master will give you proper advice.

Repair of washing machines at home - convenience and benefit. In any case, the arrival of a specialist and the determination of the problem are carried out free of charge. The repair work itself has a fixed price. Details also have their value. The arrival of the master makes it possible to save precious time, cash and nerves. So that certain problems do not arise after the repair, resort to calling only a trusted master who will write you warranty card for his repair work and provide high quality parts.

Conclusion

For example, spare parts for Indesit washing machines can be purchased at service center, which specializes in units of this brand. Specialists will be able to select for you any electrical parts, circuits, functional elements, external attributes of the case for each specific model. For spare parts for washing machines "Indesit" you will be given a guarantee. Selecting parts at a professional level will help extend the life of the machine.

If you have a bearing in washing machine or completely “crumbled”, then replacing it is simply necessary so that the machine can continue to function, because as a result, the drum will begin to hang out and other components of the machine will subsequently deteriorate. If you do not change the bearing in time, then the operation of such a machine can cause such consequences that will force you to change the entire washing machine.

If you decide to replace, then you have two options:

• Calling a repairman and entrusting the matter to a professional is the most convenient option that guarantees you that all the work will be done correctly (subject to the professionalism of the master) and in the shortest possible time. But how much does it cost to change a bearing in a washing machine today? The numbers can actually scare off many, because the cost of repair can be from 30 to 50% of the cost of a new washing machine.
• If the repair cost is too high for you, or if you think that this work can be done by yourself then this information will be useful to you.

Here we will step by step analyze all the stages of repair.

Preparation for repair

Before proceeding directly to the repair of the washer, you need to prepare essential tool and spare parts that we will change.
From the tool we need:

• Ordinary metal hammer
• Set of open end wrenches in different sizes
• pliers
• metal rod
• Screwdrivers (Phillips and slotted)
• Silicone sealant.
• Special waterproof grease for bearings of washing machines (in extreme cases, lithol)
• Camera or camera phone - when disassembling the washing machine, we recommend taking pictures of all the parts that you are going to disassemble, so that the assembly process is as simple as possible.

Required spare parts for repairs
Of the spare parts for repair, we need two bearings and an oil seal, which must be purchased. For more confidence in the right purchase spare parts, you can first disassemble the washing machine, pull out the old bearings and oil seal, and then find the originals or analogues on the Internet by the numbers on them. Or find stores selling spare parts for washing machines, and by the brand of your machine, they will select the necessary parts for you.


try to buy original spare parts they guarantee you long term services. Also buy only bearings that are designed for washing machines (they are usually closed).

Don't want to bother with this difficult repair your washer? and choose the best new washing machine for yourself.

Washing machine disassembly

If everything is ready, then you can start disassembling the washing machine.

Removing the top cover
In order to remove it, you need to open two self-tapping screws located on the rear wall of the unit, then slide the cover back and lift it. Removed cover put aside. As you can see, it is removed very simply.

Removing the top and bottom panels
After the top cover is removed, we proceed to remove the top dashboard. But, before you start unscrewing it, remove the powder tray: to do this, pull it out and press the special plastic button while pulling it towards you. Set it aside.

To take off dashboard you need to unscrew a few screws: in different machines there are a different number of them and they are in different places, but for sure part of the screws is located in the place where you pulled out the powder receptacle, and also one more is located with right side washing machine. Unscrew them all, after which you can remove the top panel.


As you will see, a control board is installed on it, connected by wires that will not let you remove it completely. To detach the entire panel, you will need to remove all the chips with wires from the sockets, and then set the top panel aside.

Mark the chips and their corresponding sockets with a marker or something else so that you do not mix them up during assembly.

Alternatively, you can not disconnect the wires, but leave the panel hanging, but this is not very convenient and you can accidentally break the wiring.

Now let's start removing the bottom panel: if you regularly clean the drain valve, then you probably know how to do it, if not, then we will tell you how to do it. To remove the bottom panel, you need to use a screwdriver or other flat object to press on the latches holding it and pull it out.

Next, we need to remove the cuff, which prevents us from removing the entire front panel washing machine. The cuff is an elastic band that is dressed at one end on the tank, and at the other on the front panel, and it's all fastened with a clamp, which we need to remove. Run your hand around the perimeter of the elastic band and feel for the small spring that connects the ends of the clamp, or find it visually. Next, pry it with a flat screwdriver and pull it out along with the clamp.


After that, remove the front edge of the cuff and fill it inside the tank.

Close the hatch of the washing machine. Locate the top and bottom of the front panel with a few self-tapping screws holding it. Unscrew them, after which the front panel will only be held on a small special hook. Now remove the front panel, but be very careful, because it is connected by a wire to the rest of the washing machine.

As soon as you remove the front panel, disconnect the wire going to the lock of the loading hatch by removing the chip. Then move the panel aside.

Disconnect all parts from the tank of the washing machine
Now we need to remove the top panel along with the powder box, which is located under the control panel that we removed earlier. To do this, you need to unscrew the bolts at the back of the washing machine that hold the inlet valve, since it will be removed along with the panel.

Now we need to disconnect the drain pipe from the tank of the washing machine, for this we unscrew the clamp and remove it.

Water may remain in the nozzle, which will flow after removing it, so have a rag ready.

Next, we disconnect all the wires suitable for the heating element, it can be located both in front and behind the washing machine, so unscrew the back cover if necessary.


Also, the wiring can be attached to the tank with ties or wire. You need to disconnect it at all points of attachment to the tank. Also disconnect the wires from the engine, since we will be removing it from the outside of the washing machine. If desired, you can disconnect the remnants of the wiring from the pump and pull it out so that it does not interfere while removing the tank.

Now we unscrew the lower and upper counterweights so that they do not add weight to the tank and it is easier for us to remove it. Counterweights can be located both in front and behind the machine.

We disconnect the pipe going to the water level sensor and you can start unscrewing the shock absorbers of the washing machine. To do this, we find the lower bolts that hold the shock absorbers and unscrew them with a wrench.

To unscrew the shock absorber bolts, it is more convenient to use a head with an extension.

Now the tank hangs with us only on springs, and we can remove it, but do it very carefully so as not to drop it. The tank without counterweights is light enough, lift it from the inside with one hand, and with the other, unhook the springs on which it weighs and pull the tank out.

You will remove the tank along with the engine, which must also be unscrewed, but before that, remove the belt. Next, we unscrew the engine itself, as well as the shock absorbers that we left hanging on the tank.


Now we can start disassembling the tank and replacing the bearings in it.

Dismantling the washing machine tank

To get to the bearing, we need to divide the tank into two halves and pull out the drum. Both halves of the tank are fastened either with special latches or bolts that are located around the entire perimeter of the tank. Therefore, either disconnect the latches, or unscrew the bolts and disconnect the front half of the tank. You can clean it of debris if desired before putting it back together.


We proceed to disconnect the drum from the back of the tank, for this we need to remove the pulley. We unscrew one bolt with a wrench that holds the pulley on the axis of the drum, after which we remove it from the axis and put it aside. And the bolt that we unscrewed is screwed all the way back into the shaft so that when the drum is knocked out, the shaft itself is not damaged.


Next, with an ordinary hammer, with a little effort, we knock on the shaft, trying to knock it out. If the shaft is gradually going, then we continue in the same spirit. If the force is already large, but the shaft does not lend itself, then it is better to unscrew the standard bolt and replace it with any other one that you would not mind throwing away, because when great effort the bolt may be deformed. As soon as the shaft is drowned to the bolt head, we unscrew the bolt and pull out the drum from the back wall of the washing machine tank.

Inspect the sleeve and the shaft itself, located on the drum. If you delayed the repair, then they could wear out and then you will also have to change the cross, which significantly affects the price of the repair. In order to check the integrity of the shaft, wipe it well with a rag and see if there is any wear on it. For more confidence, take new bearings and put them on the shaft. After that, check that there is not even the slightest play in the bearing. If there is play, then you need to replace the cross with the shaft.


Also check the sleeve, which is located on the shaft and on which the stuffing box is put on, it should also not have strong wear and transverse grooves. Under the condition of high output, the stuffing box will pass water and new bearing will quickly fail.

Washing machine bearing replacement

Having finished with the shaft, we proceed directly to replacing the bearings in the washing machine. They are, as you might have guessed, in the back wall of the drum and they need to be pulled out from there, but before that, let's remove the stuffing box.

In order to pull the oil seal out of the back of the washing machine, take a flathead screwdriver and pry it off.

Now we need to knock out both bearings, for this we set a metal rod as thick as a pencil and with sharp confident movements with a hammer we hit it moving it to different sides bearing, criss-cross. Thus, we knock out both bearings.


A small bearing is knocked out from the inside of the tank, a large one, on the contrary, from the outside.

The washing machine tank is quite fragile, so it is best to knock out the bearing by resting it on your knee to prevent damage to the tank.

After you knocked out the bearings, you need to clean the back cover itself and seats under the bearings. Not the slightest dirt should remain in them, and they should simply sparkle with cleanliness.
Now let's take the new bearings out of the package. First, we insert a small bearing and also, pointing the rod, hammer it, rearranging the rod on different sides of the bearing cross to cross. Clog the bearing until it stops, when the bearing "sits" in place, the sound from the impact becomes more sonorous.


Further similarly, but on the other side of the tank, hammer in a large bearing.

After that, we “stuff” the oil seal with a special waterproof grease and insert it into place. You can lightly hammer the seal with a hammer in the same way as a bearing, but be extremely careful not to damage it.

It is best to use specialized waterproof lubricant, but if you didn’t manage to get it, then you can use Litol-24, which can be found in any car store.

Reassembly of the washing machine

After the bearings and the oil seal are in place, lubricate the sleeve on the tank shaft with grease and install it in place, i.e., stick it into the back cover.
Now we need to connect the halves of the tank, but before that it is desirable to change sealing gum. If this is not possible, then you can simply fill the groove along with the gasket with a small layer of sealant in a circle, and then connect the halves of the tank.


Now it remains for us to assemble the washing machine in reverse order, the photos that you took during the disassembly process will help you with this. You did them, didn't you?
We also recommend that you watch the video instructions for replacing bearings on a Samsung washing machine, which will help you understand the entire repair process more clearly.

Post Views: 331