When the owner of a decent-sounding home audio system spends a lot of time behind the wheel, sooner or later he pays attention to the regular audio in his car. And he comes to the conclusion that the automaker was cunning, promising him a good sound, and sometimes seasoning the promise with some well-known nameplate. The standard question that arises in this case is “What can be done to make the staff sound normally?”
Everyone usually understands something of their own under the concept of “sounds normal”. For some, it is enough just to increase the margin of undistorted volume, and someone is trying to get closer to the home High End (I don’t want to consider the “dolbit normalno” options, sorry). However, home principles in the car still do not work. At least because the acoustic properties of a car interior are completely different than those of a room. And there are no speakers as such, and the speakers are scattered according to the principle "where there is a place, they put it there." There is nothing to say about the acoustic design for them at all - its role is played by the elements of the car's design. In general, nothing to do with "homework".
For some reason, marketers often associate the quality of an audio system with the number of speakers in it. Hence, by the way, the assertion that exists among evil tongues that the automobile High End is absurd, and it is impossible in principle to build a high-end audio system in a car. Personally, I don’t really like this approach, well, I don’t like to spend two or three hours a day in the car, standing in city traffic jams, listening to the radio alone. And I think I'm not the only one. So, we will look for other solutions, not domestic ones. And, as practice shows, such solutions exist.
It would probably be wrong to dump everything in one article. To explain at one time all the nuances of building sound in a car is something from the field of "Quantum physics in a nutshell." But choosing the right direction to take the right first step towards good sound is perhaps already half the battle. Let's start with this.
I would not argue that all regular systems sound bad. There are many interesting and really great sounding ones. But, unfortunately, with one big drawback - a monstrous cost The first step is to decide what, in fact, we need. If there is a desire to make a system of a really high class, then in any case, simple means are indispensable, you will have to approach the issue in a comprehensive manner and prepare for decent financial injections. If the task is not to equal the sound of multi-kilobucks home systems, then you can approach it step by step. But at what stage to stop - this is everyone's business. Let's start simple.
Level one. Noise isolation
Yes, yes, this is the very first item for any upgrade of the standard audio system. If you want to listen to music, first of all get rid of unnecessary sounds. By the way, it's not so much about third-party noise, but about body noise. Look at the home speaker. Sturdy body, devoid of overtones. Sound emits only what should emit sound, and what should not - is kept monolithically. Now take a look at where and how any car speaker is installed and what is the case for it. Most often, it is fixed on some kind of metal panel, and in the worst case, even on a plastic upholstery. And the body of such a "column" is a door or some kind of body niche. Tin, and only. By the way, in the truest sense of the word.
The easiest way to improve the acoustic conditions of the speakers and get rid of unnecessary resonances and other metal overtones is to use vibration damping materials. They are usually made on the basis of bitumen or rubber, often with some additives. Their main feature is high internal viscosity. Basically, these are just sheet materials that are cut right in place and carefully rolled to the metal. But sometimes such materials are also in the form of mastics.
Treatment with vibration-damping materials eliminates metal overtones and improves the working conditions of installed speakers Vibration damping materials are heavier and harder and more effective, but they are also harder to work with, so not all craftsmen like them. Those that are thinner and lighter are easier to work with, but the effect of them is not so high. The optimum is usually somewhere in the middle.
Various kinds of light foam and fibrous materials can only be considered optional, they work a little differently, and they do not have a special effect on the absorption of metal vibrations.
Level two. Replacing stock speakers
This is where you need to be very careful. This is another field with a rake, you can’t run with your eyes closed. This upgrade option is not always applicable. If you replace only the speakers and leave everything else, then it is far from a fact that the system will "sing". Moreover, in some cases, the result may turn out to be completely negative. The regular audio system, although in itself a low class, but everything in it is matched to each other and balanced.
It is clear that the audio system is far from being a priority element when designing a car, but sometimes the ways to install standard speakers are simply surprising. In the photo - a regular BMW speaker, which was simply fixed on the inside of the upholstery and covered with a light casing One of the tricks that automakers resort to is the reduced acoustic impedance. In general, in car audio, the most common acoustics is 4-ohm, but in “staffs” they often use 2-ohm. All in order to force a dead regular amplifier and slightly increase the volume margin. Replace such speakers with more familiar 4 ohm speakers and you have a quiet system, and any attempt to increase the volume will be accompanied by an increase in distortion.
But that's okay, among the aftermarket acoustics there are a lot of 2-ohm ones. Do not step on another rake - a corrected signal. This, by the way, is one of the "chips" of many branded standard systems - there are not better components, but it is by correction that they compensate for the features of cheap speakers and the shortcomings of their acoustic design. Replace the dynamics in such a system, and such a correction will no longer be appropriate.
But do not be afraid and completely discard this option. Today you can find a lot of acoustic kits that are oriented specifically for certain makes and models of cars. Basically, on European ones, in this part of the world such an upgrade is most in demand.
The video demonstrates the ease of upgrading the stock audio system by simply replacing the OEM speakers with a kit specially designed for a specific car brand:
Level three. Upgrade without replacing the standard head unit
If all these "flowers" with the speakers seem frivolous to you, it's time to move on to the "berries" - to affect the amplifying part of the system. The main task that has to be solved in this case is where to get the original uncorrected linear signal from which to start building a new audio system.
In fact, you won't find it anywhere just like that. And there is simply no single recipe for all cars, in any case, you will have to turn to professionals who specialize in “voicing” cars. Basically, it comes down to four options.
The first option is to “pull out” a linear signal from the electronic bowels of the head unit. For many models, this process, by the way, is well developed, and for a relatively small amount, your regular head unit acquires a tail with RCA connectors on the back.
In many head units, getting a line signal is easy. Sometimes, however, its level is low, and in order not to pick up interference on the way to the amplifier, you have to add a small output buffer. But for an experienced master, this does not cause any particular difficulties. The second option has to be used when it is not possible to display "linear". In this case, we leave the standard amplifier in the system, decisively disconnect the standard speakers from it and connect its outputs to the inputs of the new amplifier. The only requirement for the latter is the presence of so-called high-level inputs in it.
High-level inputs are a feature of exclusively car audio equipment; it is unlikely that anyone would think of connecting one amplifier after another at home. In a car, this is a necessary measure, and although technically it is not very elegant, it still makes sense. After all, no longer low-impedance speakers will be connected to the standard amplifier. Its output stages will operate in a completely different mode, with lower currents, so the signal quality will be somewhat different. In any case, you will get better sound than it was in the state.
But this option is also not always applicable. A little higher, I already said that in many systems a deliberate signal correction is introduced. In this case, it makes no sense to simply let the “curve” signal from the standard amplifier to the new one. And if the regular system is completely with channel-by-channel amplification, then even a curved signal cannot be found here - only frequency “cuts”.
For such cases - the third option, using a digital processor like Audison bit One, Audison bit Ten, Helix DSP, etc. The trick of these devices is that they can add the original audio signal from these separate frequency pieces, remove the correction (or rather , correct the signal “in the opposite direction”) and send such a restored signal to a new amplifier. In capable hands, by the way, quite an effective thing.
As a rule, automotive processors are configured from a laptop or tablet. Well, the fourth option is applicable in machines in which the standard system is built using the MOST bus (Media Oriented Systems Transport). By the way, there are many of these today. A feature of the MOST structure is that all devices (source, amplifiers, monitors, changers, etc.) are united by a single digital bus, through which data circulates around the ring. It is impossible to take and remove something from such a system, the data transfer is interrupted and everything just stops working.
Despite the complexity that seems at first glance, in fact, this option is one of the most convenient for installing a new system. All you need is a MOST adapter. It is included in the MOST ring as another device, pulls a digital audio signal out of the bus and gives it to us "on a silver platter" - in the form of the usual SPDIF.
If the standard audio system uses the MOST bus, then using the adapter allows you to get SPDIF without surgical intervention in the head unit or wiring And then we can do whatever our heart desires with it - from an economical solution "processor + amplifier in one package" (MD.Lab AM-60.6DSP, Audison Prima AP8.9 bit, Helix P SIX DSP, etc.) and to extravagant systems with an external DAC and other audiophile troubles.
Level four. Complete replacement of the standard system
There are situations when not only the sound of the standard system is not satisfied, but also the functionality of the head unit itself. In this case, the thought of replacing it becomes especially intrusive. But this can not always be done with small forces.
Initially, this Honda had a standard head unit integrated into the dashboard. With the help of a non-standard panel, it was possible to install a new head unit of standard DIN sizes First of all, take a close look at what a regular head unit is. If it has its own display, and all audio system controls are not connected to other car systems (climate control, on-board computer, etc.), then it can most likely be safely removed, while all other systems remain unaffected.
Don't let the original shape and dimensions of the stock GU fool you. Firstly, there are now a lot of alternative head units that are produced for specific car brands and fit into the panel according to the pin-to-pin principle - the seats and connectors are completely the same. Or you can use an adapter frame to install a standard 1DIN or 2DIN machine and an adapter from the standard connector to the standard ISO. They are produced by many manufacturers, so finding the right kit is usually not difficult. As a last resort, no one canceled custom solutions either.
If a regular head unit has many regular functions, then replacing it is a very difficult task, there are far from every car with simple solutions. Pictured is an Alpine kit designed specifically for Mercedes But if the standard “head” is combined with other car systems, it’s already more difficult. It is far from a fact that there is an alternative head unit for your car. In this case, the approach will be individual, and most likely costly.
This McIntosh has become the head of the new audio system, a mounting frame has been made specifically for it. Only the head unit remains from the standard system, it now plays the role of the second most important source But there is another option. It looks quite extravagant, but sometimes the only way to organize a truly high-quality audio source in a car is to leave the standard head unit unchanged and install a second one. In this case, it becomes the main one in the system, and the audio system is built from it. The regular one is shifted from the role of the main one in the system and becomes additional - its outputs are connected to the AUX inputs of the new head unit.
Since the audio system does not directly affect either the safety or the reliability of the car, automakers traditionally do not try to make it sound better: the main thing is that the “music” is reliable and does not spoil the statistics with breakdowns. As a rule, on the assembly line, cars are equipped with audio components of well-known brands - Blaupunkt, Clarion, Panasonic, Philips. But you shouldn't buy into a "good name" - the standard equipment comes with the simplest versions of equipment without the goal of pleasing music lovers.
Regular acoustics usually have a narrow frequency range, reproduction with a "plastic" or "cardboard" overtone and a flat, non-voluminous sound stage. In addition, at high volume, the speakers often begin to "play along" with interior trim details, "decorating" the soundtrack with trills and vibrations of dashboard fragments and door cards.
Of course, here we are not talking about premium-segment cars that are “from the factory” equipped with components of elite brands (Harman Kardon, Bang & Olufsen, Bose), distinguished by special body preparation, the presence of amplifiers, a subwoofer and carefully calculated speaker placement.
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What is high-quality sound in a car?
This is an opportunity not only to enjoy the vocals of pop stars, but also to appreciate the skill of the performers of individual instrumental parts, soloists with a wide range of voices. "Correct" speakers accurately convey all the shades of the sound of instruments, without embellishing the sound and without hiding its features. A good sound should be clear, without impurities in the form of resonance of interior parts. Of course, non-standard music can be even louder than "native", but this cannot be considered the main factor in a quality installation.
Who should leave the standard audio system?
With all its disadvantages, the standard audio system is usually reliable, has sufficient volume, reproduces sound well in the range of human speech and many popular musical genres. So if you drive an inexpensive car from morning to evening on broken roads in the company of talkative passengers, listen to chanson or FM radio and value the original state of the interior, most likely, regular acoustics are just for you.
How many speakers should a car have?
The number of speakers is by no means the most important factor, much more important is the type of speaker system. To accurately convey all the nuances of a soundtrack, acoustics must be component - with at least two frequency channels. In fact, each such loudspeaker consists of two speakers: a high-frequency tweeter ("tweeter") and a low-midrange - midbass, as well as a frequency crossover filter.
The minimum requirement in a car is one pair of these two-channel kits located in the front. This is the so-called front, which is generally enough to "feel the difference" against the background of the standard system. For better reproduction of low frequencies, it is desirable to place another pair of conventional (single-component) loudspeakers with a larger diameter (at least 16 cm or "ovals" 6x9 cm) in the rear of the cabin.
Ideally, this should be a special low-frequency speaker - a subwoofer connected to a separate channel. Further increase in the number of speakers will affect not so much the sound quality as the best audibility at different points in the cabin.
How to select speaker parameters?
The first problem when choosing speakers to replace regular ones is the size, because regular ones are often smaller than standard ones in diameter and depth. In addition to geometry, loudspeakers must be suitable for electrical parameters.
Two characteristics are especially important - resistance and sensitivity. If we are talking about connecting acoustics in a budget way - directly to the head unit (without an amplifier), then the resistance should be at least 4 ohms, and the sensitivity should be about 92 decibels.
How to choose inexpensive, but high-quality speakers?
Most world-famous car audio manufacturers have acoustics of all three price groups in their assortment. There are few exceptions, for example, Focal with its exclusively top models or JBL with its budget orientation. A set of inexpensive front speakers (two tweeters, two midbass and two crossovers) of a good brand will cost about $45-50.
At the same time, loudspeakers similar in characteristics from an unknown manufacturer can be bought for $15, but, as a rule, such speakers work for no more than a year. When it comes to an inexpensive audio system, it is recommended to pay attention to American brands falling in the $45-50 range (Polk Audio, MTX, Kicker). They are traditionally designed for use in the free volume of the door, trunk, etc.
What needs to be done besides replacing the speakers?
The first condition is to choose the right place for the speakers. High-frequency tweeters should be placed higher, closer to the listener and directed at him. Midbass (speakers of the medium-low frequency range) are usually located lower, the subwoofer can be placed in any part of the cabin.
It is also important to ensure that the speaker is rigidly attached to the massive body part. If this is not a regular plastic podium, then you will have to make at least spacer rings, for example, from thick plywood.
And finally, even local vibration isolation will significantly improve the sound of the loudspeaker. If it is not possible to process all the panels of the door in which the acoustics are installed with special materials, you need to stick a piece of absorbing material at least opposite the back of the speaker. This will largely eliminate unwanted overtones from the vibrating metal.
How expensive are high-level acoustics?
Acoustic systems of the average price level of reputable brands are sold at a price of $100-120 per set, top models - an average of $250-300. There are also premium-level acoustics that cost about $900 - 1,000 per pair. These are handmade speakers for real car audio gourmets and highly professional installers.
Such kits are produced to order and, being interested in their price, you also need to remember the cost of installing them in a car (and this can be $1,000 or $2,000) - only high-class installers will help you fully realize the potential of such speakers.
What is the difference between a simple audio system and an expensive one?
In addition to more expensive speakers, a high-end audio system differs in the way they are installed. If the speaker of an inexpensive system "plays" on the volume of the door, trunk or the entire cabin (depending on where it is installed), then for each speaker (with the exception of some tweeters) of the Hi-Fi system, its own chamber is created, the volume of which is determined by the manufacturer or installers.
An advanced system must have a subwoofer ($60 - 600), several power amplifiers ($70 - 12,000) for channel-by-channel amplification of front, rear, subwoofer signals. All components are connected by special wiring ($100 - 1000). The entire car is subjected to soundproofing work with a complete disassembly of the interior and trunk ($ 400 - 1,000). Naturally, with this approach, the head unit does not remain standard, and it is either replaced ($60-1,500) or upgraded (from $100).
Finally, car audio professionals finalize the sound stage by changing the angle of the speaker axis by a few degrees, adjusting the level and frequency range of each speaker signal. As a result, a more or less high-quality audio system will cost at least $2-3 thousand, and a really perfect one can easily cost $10 thousand.
Today, many fans immediately after buying a car make it their task to buy a high-quality audio system. You may think that choosing quality equipment is a simple undertaking. Not at all. It is necessary to know and take into account many subtleties, which we will discuss in this article.
In order to install car acoustics in this way, you will have to spend a lot of effort and money.
Council number 1. Understand component and coaxial technology, as well as its features
Unfortunately, many motorists do not even pay attention to the techniques mentioned above. In coaxial systems, two or even three speakers (high, low and medium frequencies) can be mounted. Of course, this feature greatly simplifies the process of installing the system, but setting up the speakers will be much more difficult. In addition, they have the worst sound quality in comparison with component acoustics. The use of component acoustics usually involves spaced separately. Therefore, if you want to get high-quality sound, then you need to focus on the component version.
Council number 2. Power is not the point
Many car enthusiasts and inexperienced experts in sound systems primarily pay attention to the power of the speakers. But this parameter is not the main one when choosing a technique. Power is just the maximum threshold at which the speakers will produce high-quality sound. Usually (judging by the volume), 10-20 watts is enough.
Council number 3. Consider installation considerations
One of many car audio connection schemes
If you need to make any structures for mounting speakers, then this must be taken into account. In particular, the front speaker system must be mounted in an already prepared place. If necessary, it can be modified. It is recommended to install speakers with a diameter of no more than 15-16 centimeters. In this case, it is much easier to coordinate their work with the subwoofer.
Council number 4. Try not to take a word
A manufacturer can write a lot of interesting things on the packaging of his product, but not everything can be true. Particular attention must be paid to frequency. It is important to remember that the human ear perceives a frequency of 20 to 20 thousand hertz. Today, no pair of speakers is capable of delivering this frequency. To ensure maximum sound quality, it is necessary to install high-frequency speakers with a frequency (4 to 20 thousand hertz), mid-range speakers (500-5000 Hz), subwoofers (from 30 to 100 Hz) and midbass (from 80 to 1000 Hz).
Council number 5. Noise isolation is a must
If you want to get high-quality sound, then soundproofing is indispensable. The noise of the engine and rubber will not contribute to the perception of sound. Special material must be glued on the doors, floor, roof, as well as between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment.
Council number 6. Consider speaker quality
Any detail can be very important when choosing a quality stereo system. In particular, if the midbass basket is cast, then you can get a cleaner sound and hope for the absence of any non-linear distortion. As for the twitter, it should be silk. In this case, you can count on clean high frequencies. If you want to get a sharper and brighter sound, then it is better to take products with a titanium dome.
Video about the correct selection of acoustics for your car
Council number 7. Position your speakers correctly
Speakers must be properly selected and installed
To get a good stereo effect, the speakers must be placed correctly. For example, it is highly undesirable to mount tweeters in regular places (they are usually located in the door trim). In this case, the sound from the speakers will have a minimal stereo effect. Each tweet will be heard separately, which is not very good. The best place is the top of the torpedo. In this case, the sound will be really high quality.
Tip #8. If you can't - don't go
If there is no self-confidence, then it is advisable to entrust the work to professionals in their field, who, by the way, will help you choose the highest quality stereo system. It's no secret that in order to buy a high-quality stereo system for a car, you need to have a whole range of knowledge and skills in construction, plumbing, design and other industries. Yes, and setting up the system is far from an easy task.
WITH advice number 9. Pay attention to subwoofer installation
The subwoofer is an important part of your car audio system.
As already mentioned, the subwoofer is a very important element of any stereo system. At the same time, you do not need to “blindly” buy the most powerful speaker. It is desirable to make a choice based on the genres of music that a person prefers. Today you can buy or passive subwoofer. Active subwoofers are easier to connect and configure and it is better to give preference to them. The speaker can be installed in any part of the car, but due to its large size, it has to be done in the trunk. If possible, the installation is done on the rear shelf.
We decided to buy high-quality equipment, then there is no need to waste time on trifles. Consult with a specialist and buy those speakers that he will advise specifically for your car. And it does not matter that they will be a little more expensive than you expected. You want high quality sound, don't you?
Dissatisfied with the sound of regular audio systems most often turn out to be owners of cars in the middle price segment: costing from 500,000 to 1 million rubles.
As a rule, all kinds of factory equipment of such machines do not differ in a variety of audio preparation options: at best, there is a choice of two or three systems. Moreover, they will differ from each other mainly in the number of speakers or the presence of a more functional radio.
In the minimum version, the audio preparation of a “medium-sized foreign car” is four speakers and a radio tape recorder, “to the maximum” - up to 13 speakers. I don’t want to particularly criticize the manufacturers, but in the cars of the middle price segment, the audio system is added simply “to be”. And often, even after ordering the most sophisticated audio preparation, the owner is dissatisfied with the sound. There's nothing you can do to improve.
And it is best to do this in stages, starting, as they say, small. For it often happens that after you have done one thing, the other is no longer needed.
Changing speakers
The first thing to start with "refining" the standard audio system into something more pleasing to the ear is replacing the standard speakers with better ones and a higher class.
Then a minimal audio preparation is made. Here, in particular, they make a separate preparation of doors for the installation of speakers, in which the cavities are damped and vibrations are eliminated. In this case, they leave the "native" radio and connect everything using the factory wiring.
Replacing standard acoustics and soundproofing in the workshop will result in not such a large amount for the owner - they will ask for everything along with work
15,000-25,000 rubles However, the sound of the system will change significantly, and its quality will become noticeably different.
A lot of people stop there. If the owner does not have any special claims, and he listens to music in the car “on the go”, then replacing the standard acoustics along with soundproofing is often enough.
We connect the amplifier
If not, then the next step is to install an external, additional amplifier. This is done not so much for the sake of volume, but to improve the purity of the sound. The bottom line is that the built-in amplifier available in the head unit, when the volume is increased, introduces distortions into the audio path of the system over the entire frequency spectrum: the so-called. clipping.
An external amplifier, on the other hand, allows you to provide a wide range of the signal going to the speakers, good parameters for its increase, etc. In a word, with an external amplifier, the sound is cleaner and better.
However, the problem is that not a single head unit has line outputs to an external amplifier. Such "outputs" have to be obtained artificially.
The easiest way is the so-called. "passive": when a circuit is assembled on the transformers, lowering the level of the output signal from the radio to the required level for connection to an external amplifier.
Such a scheme costs a little: 1,000-2,000 rubles. However, at the same time, all the frequency distortions that the standard audio path carries do not disappear anywhere and are transferred to an external amplifier. The advantage of such a connection scheme is the ease of installation and the minimum intrusion into the standard head unit.
A more advanced option is the so-called. "active" circuits that "intelligently" process the signal. As a rule, these are ready-made devices, which, depending on the manufacturer, cost from 5,000 to 15,000 rubles.
However, the most advanced way is to refine the head unit directly and organize the line outputs in it. To do this, the head unit is disassembled, a connection point to the built-in amplifier is found and a line-level signal is output. Such works cost from 7,000 rubles.
N.B.
A logical alternative, it would seem, is to simply replace the head unit with a new one, which already has line outputs (you don’t need to invent anything - just plug it in), and the functionality is higher. For the same 7,000-15,000 rubles. you can pick up a device of a very decent level!
However, the main problem that non-standard radio tape recorders bring with them is the interest of criminal elements in them: simply speaking, theft. Any, even the simplest device, attracts thieves like a magnet. Finding broken glass and a splintered panel when approaching a car is a typical case.
In addition, non-standard devices often require a rather complicated and expensive installation in the panel, so many decide to modify the standard device.
Of course, if you want to have “advanced” functionality in the form of MP3 playback, USB connectors, memory card slots, Bluetooth, a color LCD display and other things that audio equipment manufacturers are pampering consumers with now, the radio will have to be changed.
By the way, replacing the radio may be required in order to change the standard acoustics of the car.
In a number of cars in the high price segment (for example, Audi and Mercedes), it is impossible to replace speakers alone - you need to change the entire audio system. And if the equipment is also “advanced”, and the audio is tied to an intelligent control system, then any upgrade is associated with very serious technical difficulties. In some high-end cars, it is generally impossible to abandon the standard audio system.
Installing a subwoofer...
The third stage is the installation of a subwoofer. Not everyone reaches it: better speakers are already starting to “bask” well. Coupled with an external amplifier, the sound is already very high quality and clear, which is quite enough for an ordinary user.
However, you often want more, and if the owner listens to modern electronic music, then you can’t do without a subwoofer.
By the way, let's warn readers against teenage nonsense and thrown away money. Namely: from buying a ready-made "subwoofer" with a built-in amplifier and connecting it to a standard audio system.
There are a lot of all sorts of “boxes” and “barrels” on sale now at affordable prices, which you can connect even by yourself, even for little money in the “garage” service. Only nothing good will come of such an “installation”! Almost certainly there will be an indistinct bang and buzz that does not agree with anything.
In order for the subwoofer to sound right and truly beautifully complement the sound picture, it must be built for the existing speaker system, taking into account the space of the car. And only so!
For the price, together with the installed "subwoofer", the modified audio system will cost about 50,000-90,000 rubles.
...and a new radio.
How much ran in total?
Well, the last step is to replace the radio. As we have already said, this is done both for the sake of new functionality and the sound of the device itself. By the way, many high-end devices provide only spartan features: the “direct purpose” is to turn disks, and an equally ascetic design.
If you do not take Hi-End class components, but simply install high-quality elements from well-known manufacturers, then you will have to pay 50,000-170,000 rubles for replacing standard acoustics, installing a subwoofer and a playback device. For a car bought for 1 million rubles, probably not so much. Although, is it possible to commensurate the pleasure derived from good music with anything at all? ..
Greetings!
This article is dedicated to car owners and motorists who are just starting to think about replacing standard car audio.
There can be many reasons for this, but the most common are:
The speakers “wheezed” due to overload or mechanical damage, ingress of various kinds of pollution, etc.
Another common reason, as you know, there is no limit to perfection, and very many, in search of “their” sound, have not yet found “that” sound that would be to their liking, but they don’t like what they have, and then you start thinking about acquiring something more serious and better.
Sooner or later, you will face the question of choosing speakers for your car from all the variety that is on the market today.
Everyone who encounters for the first time, and especially beginners, simply needs to know and freely navigate the technical characteristics of dynamic heads.
Whoever has an amplifier at home or a home theater is perfectly aware that this equipment sounds much more powerful and better than any head unit in the car. Earlier, we considered that it is simply not possible to obtain power over 20 watts from 12 volts without any DC / DC converters according to the laws of physics and circuitry. The fact that 4 x 50 watts is written on the radio only indicates maximum power, but not long-term with low distortion. That is why the speakers have a very big responsibility to “pull out” the overall sound of the system at the expense of their own capabilities. If the speakers turn out to be weak in power, they will not give you the slightest pleasure from listening to your favorite music that you expected from them - this is a waste of money.
In order to make the right choice in the future, we suggest clarifying for a start what types of speakers are in the car. So, car acoustics can be of 2 types:
COAXIAL AND COMPONENT
This photo shows an example of what coaxial acoustics looks like.
coaxial acoustics- incorporates several speakers, they reproduce the entire spectrum of sound frequencies audible to the human ear. All speakers in such a system are located on one common "basket".
This photo shows an example of what component acoustics looks like.
Component acoustics - it also consists of several speakers in the same way, but the main difference of such a system is that all the speakers are located throughout the interior of the car, and are not concentrated in one “basket”. Each frequency range has its own speaker that reproduces only a certain frequency band. For example, the so-called "midbass" is used to reproduce the bass and midrange frequencies, or it is also known as the middle bass (translated from English). A separate speaker serves to reproduce the HF, it is called a tweeter or tweeters, as the people call it. Due to the diversity in the interior of the car, it is the component speakers that allow you to get a chic and voluminous stage.
Coaxial speakers are more affordable and sometimes cost several times cheaper compared to component systems. This does not mean at all that they are somehow bad in sound, it’s just that each speaker is created for certain tasks for this acoustic system, these very tasks are simpler than for other types. But there are also advantages. Coaxial acoustics are easier to install and cost little money.
Speakers according to the reproducible frequency spectrum are MULTI-BAND AND BROAD-BAND.
Broadband speakers have only one cone in their composition, which reproduces a fairly wide range of frequencies.
Multi-way systems consist of multiple (2 to 5) built-in speakers.
The shape of the dynamic heads are round and oval, this does not affect the sound quality at all.
Features such as:
SENSITIVITY (sensitivity). The minimum values are 84-86 dB, but it is better if it is about 92 dB. The higher the sensitivity of the speaker, the less power needs to be supplied to it, in other words, for example, a speaker with high sensitivity will have enough 30 watts to swing it, and another 100 watts will not be enough. That is why the larger this parameter, the better!
RESONANT FREQUENCY (Fs). The lower this value, the deeper low frequencies this particular speaker will be able to produce. The optimal indicator is preferable - from 50 to 80.
OVERALL QUALITY (Qts). The minimum value should be within - 0.4-0.6. If you want high-quality sound, choose a model where this indicator is higher than the minimum values.
POWER: It happens nominal (long-term) and maximum (peak). The rated power is the power that the speaker can safely withstand for at least hours without damage, and the maximum is the power that the speaker can digest, usually in a few seconds without the risk of damage and the release of magic smoke :)
Car speaker size classification:
Most car speakers are standard sizes. Circular speakers are typically available in diameters of 10 cm (4 inches), 13 cm (5.25 inches) and 16 cm (6.5 inches). Oval speakers are generally available in 15x23 cm (6x9 inches), but "ovals" in 18x25 cm (7x10 inches) and 13x18 cm (5x7 inches) are rare.
Nowadays, there are a huge number of companies on the market specializing in the production of acoustics, some of them are cheap and come from China, and some are very good-looking and have a solid reputation behind them, but as a result, a higher cost.
So how do you tell them apart, you ask? To be honest, this is not an easy task, there are already more than 200 manufacturers on the market. There are also Chinese firms that are not quite “junk”, just as there are outright fakes for well-known and popular manufacturers. Most importantly, be vigilant and do not run into such products do not buy speakers for $ 100, the true price of which is $ 20-30.
Branded speakers Sony, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC, Panasonic Of course, they are not “left” ones, of course, if these are original products, but for the most part, it is these firms that are most often faked. The sound quality of such speakers is average and they are quite suitable for replacing the worn-out regular speakers.
Selecting speakers based solely on the size of the magnet would be a completely wrong decision. If the magnet is large, this does not mean at all that we have some kind of super speaker. Modern models of acoustics use a neodymium magnet, which is very small in size and has a chic efficiency.
It is better to pay attention to the diffuser and suspension, they are located on the front side of the speaker. The best option is when diffusers are made of paper or pressed cardboard with mandatory water-repellent impregnation (for maximum protection in harsh working conditions - the car is such), soft rubber or rubber is used to hang the diffuser. We strongly do not recommend buying speakers with rag or foam suspensions.
High-frequency speakers, they are tweeters, it is desirable to purchase silk ones, they are the most pleasant to the ear in sounding as a result of the "correct" frequency response.
If there is an external crossover in the speakers - great, your system will have good frequency separation by filtering.
And please, remember the most important thing in acoustics is the place of its installation. Keep in mind that even the most expensive and high-quality speaker without acoustic design will not give the expected effect, that is, it will not justify your money spent on it. To hear more or less high-quality sound, the speakers must be installed in an acoustic volume. In most factory-made cars, this volume is nothing more than a tin can when viewed from an acoustical point of view.
In order for the speaker to somehow sound installed in the doors of the car, they must be treated with noise-vibration insulation and the speaker should be fixed not to metal, but through an additional wooden spacer ring.
If you do everything right, your car will certainly have high-quality sound!
We recommend that you be careful not to confuse the polarity when connecting, so as not to look for where the bass disappeared later :), because the speakers in this case will work in antiphase, which will lead to the absence of bass.
That's all. We wish you high-quality sound in your car while listening to which there will be no desire to turn it off, but rather make it even a little louder! :)
