Operating Capabilities vehicle depends on its performance. This indicator is associated with various conditions, one of which is the presence of rust. rusty car unable to fully perform their functions, and requires repair work. If the rust is not removed in a timely manner, it will grow until the car fails. Therefore, if corrosion is detected, it should be repaired as soon as possible.
Many car owners know little about corrosion. Rust occurs due to an electrochemical reaction, as a result of which the body shell gradually turns into iron oxide. Places affected by the reaction are covered with corrosion. The following are involved in the reaction:
- anode - a metal component of the body;
- electrolyte - water with a low salt content;
- cathode - a metal surface exposed to electrolytes.
Thus, if during use the vehicle periodically comes into contact with water, rust appears. In most cases, corrosion affects the areas of joints and chips.
Rust often occurs in winter period. This is due to the fact that the chemical renegades used by utilities contain salts that act as an electrolyte.
Types of corrosion
Body corrosion is divided into two types:
- Dry. This type of rust occurs when the vehicle is stored in a dry place. Dry corrosion is characterized by tarnishing of the surface on the machine, but no visible focus is found. You can overcome dry rust with the help of special substances.
- Wet. Occurs in the form of pronounced areas of damage to the surface. If the rust is not removed in a timely manner, it will increase. Availability through corrosion can cause serious damage.
Depending on the type of rust, the method of its elimination is chosen.
Appearance stages
Rust usually occurs after an accident. But at normal conditions it is a natural process characterized by three stages:
- at the first stage, corrosion of the car affects the joints of parts - it is eliminated with sandpaper, or other improvised means;
- the second stage is known as "under-film" - it manifests itself as an emerging focus, surrounded by swollen paint;
- the third stage is characterized by damage to the metal body, and the appearance of holes in it - such damage to the metal can be eliminated with the help of a full restoration of the body.
In order to prevent the first stage from flowing into subsequent ones, the car is periodically inspected for chips, bumps, and paint color changes. If you notice in time when rust damage begins, serious problems can be prevented.
Corrosion of the painted surface
Paintwork is a protective coating for your car. The painted surface is protected from corrosion thanks to:
- water-repellent properties;
- low gas permeability;
- low vapor permeability.
In standard use, auto performance paintwork gradually decrease due to natural wear and tear. But sometimes the corrosion of the car body occurs for other reasons:
- when applying hardening paint, defects were made;
- pores have appeared in the paint film;
- the paint is applied in a thin film (fenders and other car elements that have bends are more likely to be affected by this problem).
Prolonged exposure to moisture on the vehicle coating causes Negative consequences- the destruction of the paint appears. Many drivers do not know why in some cases it is better to store the car on the street than to hide it in the garage. If in a car storage garage high rate humidity, it is recommended to put it outdoors. Ventilation will slow down the wear of the paintwork.
Sand-salt mixture on the roads
Corrosion of the car during operation is accelerated due to the impact of the sand-salt mixture on the roads. In winter, utilities often use sand and salt, poured onto the road, to deal with ice. As the temperature rises, ice and snow melt to form water. It interacts with sand and salt, and forms a sand-salt mixture.
During operation, the mixture accumulates in damaged areas of the body, provoking the destruction of the paintwork. The body surface is left unprotected and corrosion occurs. The more sand-salt mixture gets into damaged places the more rust spreads. With prolonged exposure to the machine, great damage is done. To protect the car from corrosion on the body, special substances are used.
Types of corrosion control
Rust on the coating can be removed by hand. This task is carried out using:
- sandblasting machine or grinder (as budget analogue sandpaper is used)
- paper;
- masking tape;
- rags;
- rust converter (a special tool sold in auto parts stores);
- primers and fiberglass putty;
- rubber gloves;
- fiberglass set;
- paints and varnish.
List necessary fixtures varies depending on how badly the coating is affected by rust. It is recommended that tools and materials have a designation that allows their use for car processing. There are three types of corrosion control methods:
- passive - primer and paint are applied;
- active - mastics, sealants, anti-corrosion agents are used to fight rust;
- electrochemical - installation electronic device transferring the occurrence of rust from the surface of the body to the electrode (rust removal by the electrochemical method requires serious costs).
The most common due to the low cost is the first method. Elimination of corrosion is carried out step by step:
- the car is cleaned of dust and dirt;
- rust is removed from damaged areas;
- the cleaned areas are treated with a rust converter (the action is performed with gloves);
- the site is treated with a primer;
- after the primer has hardened, paint and varnish are applied to the metal surface.
Body protection from manufacturers
To prevent the occurrence of rust on the car, manufacturers of modern Vehicle use their own protection. Before going on sale, the car passes anti-corrosion treatment. Most high quality body protection differs from German and Japanese manufacturers.
The most common factory protection options are:
- paints and varnishes;
- galvanization;
- anodizing.
The last method is the most reliable, and is provided with the help of special devices. Modern technologies help to avoid the recurrence of rust, but such devices are installed mainly only on expensive models.
Serial vehicles foreign production usually after production they are covered with a protective film or a layer of zinc. But such coatings have a limited operational period. If the machine gets damaged, they will stop working.
Some firms use galvanizing in conjunction with special metals. But this practice does not apply to all cars.
Car storage conditions
Metal corrosion on a car appears in wet conditions. The vehicle may be stored in a low humidity garage. The room must be ventilated and clean.
- install a heating system;
- completely free from contaminants;
- install a ventilation system.
Ways to extend the life of the body
Rust from the car is easy to remove with your own hands. But many do not know what to do to prevent it. To extend the life of the body, and prevent corrosion, you should follow a few tips. To combat corrosion, you can:
- treat the surface with water-repellent substances;
- apply a soundproofing agent to the coating;
- cover the body with a vinyl film that prevents scratches and chips;
- process the lower part of the body with auto wax;
- apply protective film from zinc particles.
Galvanizing is expensive, so it is recommended to perform it as an additional step. Another expensive option is car protectors. If the machine already has rust, the described steps can only be carried out after restoration.
Are imported cars protected from corrosion?
Imported vehicle brands are produced with additional protection. But it is temporary. Its operational period depends on the quality of the roads on which the car drives.
After a few years, the protection is reduced, due to which the machine becomes subject to corrosion. Therefore, if there is imported models the same precautions are observed as when using domestic cars.
The body is the most expensive and representative part of the car. Many motorists choose a car precisely for its appearance, and not by speed or other indicators. Each car manufacturer applies its own methods of painting the car and processing its body so that it retains its original appearance as long as possible. But there is such a nuisance as rust, which all cars without exception are subject to. If the car body began to rust, it is urgent to eliminate the "hotbed" of the problem, and you can do it yourself.
What causes rust on a car
When rust appears on the car body, it instantly loses its value, and even secondary market it will be very difficult to sell a car with corrosion on the body. Professionals will always be able to determine whether work was carried out on the car body to eliminate the manifestations of rust or not, which is why it is better not to bring matters to such a situation.
To prevent corrosion on the metal of the car body, it is necessary to take care of it:
Corrosion can be divided into two types, which differ in the degree of danger and causes of occurrence:
As part of this article, we will consider how to deal with wet corrosion on the car body and remove rust yourself.
Any car enthusiast knows that rust on the car body is formed when the paintwork is damaged, for example, after an accident. But even in a calm situation, corrosion can appear on metal, and most often this happens at the joints of machine body parts, for example, near headlights, a radiator grill or moldings.
The process of rust on the car body can be divided into three stages:
To avoid destruction of the car body as a result of active action rust, it is recommended to inspect in detail the thresholds, fenders, bottom and other elements of the machine on a weekly basis for signs of the first stage of corrosion. 
If during the inspection of the car corrosive damage to the body was found, it is necessary to eliminate the problem as soon as possible. To remove rust on a car, you will need to stock up on the following tools:
Depending on the stage of corrosion, the set necessary tools will vary.
When necessary set tools will be prepared, you can proceed to eliminate rust on the car body. Performed this procedure in the following way:
As you can see, removing rust from a car on your own is very simple, and any car enthusiast can handle a similar task.
One of the most annoying problems for car owners is rust on the car. It is as destructive to the body of your iron friend as caries is to teeth. But, if when a toothache occurs, we immediately rush to the dentist for help, then in the case of metal corrosion, we can do without the help of specialists. There are several recommendations on how to remove rust from a car. By listening to them, you can significantly save on the services of special service centers and protect your car from destruction.
Getting rid of rust
1. Before starting work, you must take precautions. You need to wear gloves and a respirator, as there will be a lot of colorful dust and rust.
2. Also follows secure undamaged areas car. To do this, cover them with newspaper and masking tape. This is necessary so that colorful dust does not get there, because it is quite difficult to get rid of it.
3. In order to remove rust from the car, you need to start clean the damaged surface metal. You can use regular sandpaper for cleaning. It is very important mechanically remove rust from the body, because various rust removers may not be effective enough and lead to further destruction of the metal. So, in a circular motion, with strong pressure, we clean the affected area, as well as the surface next to it.
4. With heavy damage can be used special tools, for example, a drill with a ruff, or a grinder. For a grinder, it is important to choose the right grinding wheel. A cutting or grinding wheel will not work. They can remove too much excess metal. To treat rust on a car, it is better to use sanding paper with a plastic sole. Usually use a large skin P80 - P220. And if you need to clean up glossy paint next to a rusty place, then use a fine sandpaper so as not to damage the metal.
You can also use a sandblaster. By choosing 150 grit, you can remove rust, remove paint from a primer, and even out the surface of the metal for further processing. It is necessary to check by touch how smooth the surface is. To properly remove rust after machining you will need to treat the damaged area with a special acid. This is necessary to get rid of small residues of rust. For such a procedure, phosphoric acid or sulfuric acid is suitable. You can also use special anti-rust products.
5. After that you need prime the surface. In advance, purchase a special primer for cars and paint in a car shop that matches the color of your car in tone. To prepare a place for a primer, you need to degrease the surface. To do this, all work surfaces must be treated with alcohol or a solvent. Attach the newspaper to all adjacent places and proceed to the primer.
Apply a thin coat of primer. Let dry. A total of three layers are required. Then let dry for 12 hours.
6. After that clean the area with fine sandpaper. Wipe dry and you can start painting.
7. Paint must be applied carefully. so that there are no leaks. After painting, leave to dry for a day, then remove the adhesive tape and newspapers. Paint the remaining places with a helmet, trying to achieve uniformity with the old color. After that, leave to dry for another two days. Then the car can be washed.
We hope now the question of how to remove rust from the metal of your car will not cause panic, and you will be able to handle everything on your own.
The fight against corrosion of a car often causes a lot of problems for its owner. To do this, three main methods are used - passive, active and electrochemical, but each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Most often with special means. And for the purpose of prevention, on the bottom, hull thresholds and other hidden places, a protective film is glued or treated with mastic. There are also other preventive measures, which we will talk about with you later.
Causes of corrosion
To begin with, we will understand why corrosion processes occur. The problem is that corrosion metal surfaces There are four types - electrochemical, chemical, hydrogen and oxygen. In the context of rusting car body only the first two types occur.
Electrochemical corrosion occurs due to the fact that two materials with different reducing properties interact through an electrolyte (any undistilled water is such). Since iron has low reducing properties, it is highly susceptible to rusting. Chemical corrosion occurs due to the interaction of the metal surface and the corrosive environment. Oxygen can act as the latter high temperatures. Understanding the essence of emerging processes gives us the ground to search for methods to combat corrosion.
Types of corrosion control
There are two main ways to protect the car body from corrosion. The first is barrier protection. It does not allow the physical interaction of the surface of vulnerable metals with external environment. This is expressed in the use of paintwork and various mechanical means and protection. The second is tread protection. An example of this is galvanization, because zinc has a more negative potential than iron. Accordingly, if you connect them, then in such a pair iron will be restored, and zinc will corrode. However, since there is an oxide film on the zinc surface, this process is very slow.
As mentioned earlier, there are three main types of corrosion control on a car:
- Passive.
- Active.
- Electrochemical.
Passive fighting method involves the use of body paintwork. The task of the car owner in this case is to maintain the integrity of the LCP. Cannot be allowed to appear small chips or scratches on its surface. This method should also include periodic washing of the car, as well as the use of additional protective agents - wax, and so on.
Under active method of struggle with car corrosion imply the use of special anti-corrosion materials and mastics. They differ depending on which parts of the body are used. For example, the bottom of a car is often treated with an anti-gravel coating. As a rule, these compositions are based on fine aluminum powder. There are also special anti-corrosion agents for wheel arches. Most often, the so-called liquid locker (durable elastic material) is used for this. A separate class are anti-corrosion materials for hidden cavities. They are designed for processing thresholds, pillars, spars, floor reinforcements and other surfaces.
Electrochemical method of struggle with metal corrosion on a car body is to use a special electronic device that incorporates an electrode designed to take on corrosion. Simply put, it will not be the body of the machine that will rust, but the said electrode. This method is very efficient, but significant disadvantage is a high price.
How to remove corrosion from a car
Now let's go directly to the methods and means to combat corrosion on a car with our own hands. First of all, it is necessary to mechanically remove rust from the surface. And do it very carefully! For these purposes, use sandpaper, various abrasive wheels for a drill or grinder, as well as sandblasting. It is the latter tool that most effectively cleans the affected surface.
When working with sandblasting, use tools personal protection- Respirator, goggles, headgear, gloves. And it is better to carry out work either in a separate room with forced ventilation, or on the street away from surfaces with paintwork and glass.
Sandblasting work
Also used to remove corrosion special formulations. The simplest in this case is to use a weak solution of hydrochloric acid followed by its removal.
However the most reliable method of corrosion control is to use rust converters or modifiers. They convert iron oxide to iron tannate. As a rule, they include polymers that act as a primer.
Rust converters for cars convert corrosion into a layer of iron and zinc phosphates and chromates. They are also sometimes used to treat uncorroded metal before applying a primer to prevent future corrosion and to improve the adhesion of the paintwork to the metal surface.
The best preventive measure to combat the corrosion of a car is its anti-corrosion treatment at the service station. It needs to be updated periodically every 2-3 years.
An independent fight against car corrosion has the following sequence:
Remember that all work must be carried out carefully, since even a small stain of rust can grow significantly over time.
Visible rusty seam
Always check status welds on the body of the machine. Remember that they are the most vulnerable to corrosion. In particular, its intercrystalline form, which is especially dangerous. The consequence of its appearance is an imperceptible loss of ductility and strength of the metal. So, the boundaries of welded grains are destroyed chaotically, and the regions of structural transformations turn into an anode, which dissolves intensively. Moreover, such a phenomenon can be observed not only on iron car bodies, but also on stainless steel, aluminum, chromium-nickel and chromium alloys. Corrosion in this case threatens with chipping of individual metal grains, due to which the seam and the body as a whole gradually lose their mechanical properties.
The areas most prone to rusting on a vehicle body are the lower parts of the door panels, sills, front fenders, box sections of the lower body, the inner surface wheel arches. Due to the fact that access to the listed places is difficult, there is always a risk of not noticing the appearance of rust pockets. Check their status for viewing hole or on a lift!
Popular Rust Removers
Currently, there are dozens of different rust converters in car dealerships, and their range may be different in different regions of the country. Therefore, it makes no sense to give recommendations about the purchase of a particular product. But we still give as an example a few names of popular compositions that are common among car owners. So:
The popular remedy "Tsinkar"
- "Movil";
- a line of rust converters Hi-Gear;
- "Kolchuga";
- sonax;
- "SF-1";
- runway;
- permatex;
- bitumast;
- Phosphomet.
It must be remembered that with the help of any converter it is possible to deal with rust, the layer of which does not exceed 0.1 mm. In addition, the active components fight only with ingrained rust. Its loose component is best removed mechanically (using sandpaper, a knife, a metal brush, sandblasting, and so on).
When working with converters, follow the safety regulations. It is advisable to work with rubber gloves and avoid getting liquid on exposed skin.
The choice of one or another means should be based on the assortment, its composition, price. Fortunately, they are inexpensive, so if the purchased product turns out to be ineffective, you can always purchase another one.
Body galvanization
Use of "Zincor-Auto"
Galvanizing at home
An excellent option for passive body protection against harmful effects corrosion is its zinc plating at home. To do this, you can buy a tool "Zincor-Auto" or similar. Currently, many manufacturers produce such products.
Beware of fakes! In connection with the successful use of this tool, many unscrupulous manufacturers began to produce counterfeit products. Buy the product only in certified and trusted stores.
"Zincor-Auto" is a means of coating small areas with a layer of zinc paintwork damage leading to rust on the hull. The principle of operation is based on the galvanic effect, due to which zinc particles cover the affected area of the metal case. The kit includes working electrodes, connecting wires, and two bottles of various formulations- rust converter and zinc solution directly. The algorithm for using the device is as follows:
Means for galvanizing "Zinkor-Avto"
- Using a clerical knife or other improvised means, it is necessary to carefully remove rust from the surface. And not only in places where it is visible, but also under the paint, since in the future it can spread further across the area.
- Put the car on hand brake and start the engine. Further connecting wire, which is included in the kit of the device, must be connected to the positive terminal of the battery. It is also possible to carry out the operation on a non-started engine, but it is still better to do this with the engine running, since in this mode the current value will be higher.
- The other end of the wire must be connected to the red electrode. Check that the machine body is grounded. The presence of a galvanic effect directly depends on this.
- At the end of the electrode there is a sponge that absorbs moisture, which must be dipped into a bottle of No. 1 (rust removal solution), and then rub the composition thoroughly over the surface affected by rust. Carry out the procedure until the rust is completely removed.
- After removing the rust with water, wash off the remaining solution from the surface.
- Next, you need to disconnect the red electrode and connect the gray one.
- Take bottle No. 2 (zinc solution), dip the sponge of the second electrode into it and repeat the procedure for applying the solution.
- Carry out this process until you see a sufficient layer of zinc on the surface of the metal.
As practice shows, the applied layer keeps on the surface of the case for years, preventing rust from appearing and spreading. Therefore, the use of Zincor-Auto and the like is effective method elimination of rust that has appeared on chips and other damage to the paintwork.
Summary
The main thing that every car owner should remember when it comes to car body rusting is that there is always a risk of corrosion. Accordingly, it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the surface of the housing, as well as take preventive measures to prevent the occurrence of corrosion. The best solution V given vein there will be anti-corrosion treatment bodies at the service station.
If you find a source of corrosion and want to get rid of it, then use special converters for this, which can be bought at any auto shop in the auto cosmetics department. The main thing is that in case of detection, do not delay the procedure, but do it as soon as possible. It must be done carefully so as not to leave the slightest area with rust at the site of the lesion.
Rust— It's like a cancerous tumor but only for the car. Over time, rust just kills the car. It can appear on both old and new cars. Both budget and foreign automobile industry cars are subject to corrosion. Even a solid factory anti-corrosion coating does not always give a 100% guarantee that rust will not appear on the car.
Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the safety of the paintwork and do not forget to regularly inspect the nooks and crannies of the car. After the appearance of the first so-called "bugs", you can determine the rust with a more detailed examination and in many other places, and this is very fraught with money, if you do not immediately react. The sooner you start to deal with it, the more chances you have to avoid through corrosion. You can easily get rid of rust at home if the damage is not too great.
How to deal with rust with your own hands quickly and effectively
First you need to carefully remove all dirt and dust from the damage site. Despite the fact that you remove rust only in one place of the body, then the whole car needs to be cleaned. It is best to trust the professionals and wash your car under high pressure. Once the car is dry, you can confidently start removing the rust.
How and what to get rid of rust
Before you begin work, you should glue strips of masking tape around the damaged area, which will protect against accidental damage to the paintwork.
Mechanical cleaning of rust. Next, you need to remove all loose and layered rust, and also clean the metal from swollen paint and primer. If the damaged area is not too large, then it is quite possible to get rid of rust with the help of a brush or a coarse-grained skin. If the area is quite large, then it is more convenient to use a grinder or a drill with a special metal brush attachment.
Rust converters. This method of getting rid of rust is also quite common. The use of rust converters is especially important when, due to inaccessibility, it is not possible to completely remove rust mechanically. Today, it is not a shortage to find a good converter, they are available in almost all auto shops. Be sure to pay attention to the methods of application and the consequences that it gives, because after some means it is necessary to wash everything off with water, after applying others, you must immediately start puttying.
Putties for cars. If the corrosion was very strong and after complete removal loose rust formed a considerable size recess, and possibly through holes, then it is best to use a special putty with fiberglass. Attention, Before applying putty, the metal must be degreased. A large number of putties are two-component and should be mixed immediately before use, so the mass will harden very quickly. After it dries, the putty is carefully leveled with P80-P120 sandpaper.
Finishing primer. After you degrease the metal, the last to be applied is a primer, which is not only the basis for painting a car, it is also an additional protection against rust. The primer must also be sanded to perfect condition, this can be done using a wooden block, which must first be wrapped with P240-P400 sandpaper. If you are grinding a convex surface, then a wooden block is prohibited.
Painting. Of course, it is best, for greater effect, to use spray guns and specially selected repair paint. But since this pleasure is quite expensive, it is possible to paint with aerosol cans, although some experts disapprove of such coloring.
The paint must be applied in thin layers so that there are no streaks, which are then very difficult to get rid of. Each layer must dry. At the final stage, you need to apply varnish in two layers.
