Every year cars with automatic transmission are gaining more and more popularity. This is due, of course, to the ease of operation, as well as undeniable convenience in the crush of big cities and traffic jams, when the constant switching of steps in a manual transmission and depressing the clutch can unbalance even the most stress-resistant car driver.
However, driving an automatic transmission is not as simple as it seems at first glance, and therefore the question of how to drive an automatic transmission is far from idle. Therefore, it is worth considering the entire list of actions when driving an automatic transmission. In particular, you should not get under way on the car at once. Even at positive air temperatures, it is worth waiting a minute or two for the automatic transmission to enter the operating mode with the correct distribution of oil inside the transmission.
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At sub-zero temperatures, the warm-up time should be increased, which will avoid the premature "death" of the automatic transmission.
In this case, the engine should be started in the selector positions “P” or “N”. In other positions, the car simply will not start. Before driving, on the box, the automatic selector is transferred to any of the positions to start moving. It must be remembered that the switching time takes about a second. In this case, it is necessary to hold the car by pressing the brake pedal.
Video - how to use the automatic transmission
By the way, driving a car with automatic transmission requires only one foot! The fact is that if you press the brake with the second foot, the car will begin to slow down sharply, which can lead to repeated pressing of the gas. And this is, at a minimum, a breakdown of the transmission, and as a maximum - sharp acceleration instead of braking and, as a result, a traffic accident.
Recently, automatic transmissions have become increasingly popular with manual switching gears. When wondering how to drive a tiptronic automatic transmission (it has such a name), you need to remember that when choosing the appropriate transmission mode, you will have to switch by swinging the lever or pressing the steering wheel paddles.
To enable this mode, it is enough to move the selector to the “M” position or to a separate sector, where there are “+” and “-” symbols. The first position is responsible for upshifting, and the second for downshifting. It should be noted that before driving a machine, it is required, so to speak, to “study the materiel”. Specifically, the designations on the transmission selector, which are often incomprehensible to a person who previously drove a “mechanics”.
Mode "P" - parking. The inclusion of this mode blocks the shaft and drive wheels, and therefore is used when the car is stopped for a long time. Here you need to remember that you can turn it on only after the car has completely stopped, but in no case while driving, even the lightest one. In this case, to exit the mode, it is necessary, as already mentioned, to press the brake. Otherwise, the transmission simply will not allow switching. It should be noted that this mode can replace the handbrake when parking on a flat area. However, if the surface has a slope, the use of a "handbrake" is mandatory. This is due to the fact that the automatic transmission elements will be subjected to additional stress, which can significantly reduce their service life. 
"R" mode - reverse. Here the name of the mode speaks for itself - it serves to carry out the movement of the car in reverse. In order to turn on the reverse, you must also completely stop the car and press the brake pedal.
"N" mode - neutral gear. It is used, as a rule, for technical needs, when it is necessary to move a car with a running engine. Most often, they resort to it in a car service or during other similar actions. Before driving an automatic transmission, you should exit this mode in the way already described above. By the way, you should not try to save fuel by moving from the slope "coasting" by turning on this mode. When reconnected, the load in the transmission nodes will negate the savings. By the way, there is no reason to use this mode in a traffic jam or at a traffic light due to the fact that it is simply more convenient to hold the car with a brake.
Mode "D" - movement. This is the main mode for driving a car, and it is better to learn the basics of how to drive an automatic gearbox from it. When driving in this selector position, the box itself “selects” the required gear from the first to the last according to the driving rhythm, the driver’s manner, and also the road conditions. It is in it that the automatic transmission is in full automatic mode without requiring any action from the driver.
Mode "2" - the first two gears available. In it, the gearbox blocks the choice of gears, limited to first and second gears. It makes sense to use this mode when towing, as well as on mountain roads with a winding profile. The inclusion of the mode is also available while driving, but this should only be done if the vehicle speed is below 80 kilometers per hour. Otherwise, high speeds may adversely affect the car engine.
Mode "L" - only first gear is available. This mode is designed for driving in particularly difficult conditions and off-road. On crossovers and SUVs with this mode, a downshift is also activated. At the same time, the inclusion of this mode is possible only at a car speed below 15 kilometers per hour. Before driving an automatic transmission off-road, it is better to turn on the mode in advance. In addition to these modes, there are other types of modes on automatic transmissions.
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OverDrive (O/D) This mode is used on transmissions that have more than three steps and is intended for overtaking or in other situations when fast acceleration car. It is activated, as a rule, by pressing a button on the transmission lever. Before driving an automatic transmission using this mode, it should be remembered that it forcibly does not allow the automatic transmission to switch higher than to third gear. Thanks to this, a greater, in comparison with normal operation, vehicle dynamics is achieved. You can also use this mode when driving on a long slope. The fact is that the normal mode can in this case “fluctuate”, switching either to third or fourth gear. When using the "overdrive" the problem disappears.
Kickdown. Very often in car reviews you can read about the use of this mode, but not all car owners know about its essence. Activation of this mode occurs when you sharply press the gas pedal. At the same time, the "automatic" throws off "down" one or two gears, which ensures confident acceleration. At the same time, upshifting occurs at a much more high revs, than usual. At the same time, manufacturers do not recommend using kick-down to start from a standstill due to the heavy load on the transmission, which leads to a decrease in its resource.
PWR/SPORT. This mode is software and is intended for active driving. When it is activated, the stages in the box switch at higher speeds, due to which maximum dynamics is achieved (fuel consumption also becomes maximum). In order to understand how to drive an automatic transmission in sport mode, it is required, for starters, to master the basic skills of driving an automatic machine due to the fact that the car subjectively becomes noticeably sharper in response to the gas pedal.
SNOW - snow. The name of this mode speaks for itself. It is designed for safe driving. winter time of the year. How to drive an automatic in winter is not difficult to understand - just turn on this mode. In this case, the automatic transmission will “start off” from the second gear, and the shifts will take place on more low revs. On asphalt, the car becomes less dynamic, but this is done for safety on snow. Many are also wondering how to drive an automatic transmission in ice.
Here, too, difficulties, as a rule, do not arise, and the actions of the driver in this case not much different from driving a "mechanics". However, the “snow” transmission mode is mandatory in this case as well. It will greatly simplify and secure the movement of the car.
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It should also be noted that the "winter" mode should not be used in the summer to save fuel. This is due to the fact that the car starts from second gear, which results in an increased load on the gearbox torque converter. And this is a direct path to overheating and subsequent costly repairs.
Having considered the main driving modes “on the machine”, it is worth paying attention to common prejudices regarding automatic transmissions.
The first and most established stereotype is poor reliability Automatic transmission versus manual transmission. Of course, the first "machines" in the middle of the twentieth century did not shine high reliability. However, today such gearboxes are often superior in reliability to their "mechanical" counterparts. It is enough to recall the sensational story with TaGAZ Tiger cars, where a factory defect in a manual transmission led to an early breakdown of the assembly. At the same time, versions with an “automatic” regularly served their owners. At the same time, automatic transmissions require a much more careful attitude and everything, for the most part, depends on how you drive an automatic transmission.
In case of ignorance of the basics of controlling this unit, failures and breakdowns are quite possible, which are initiated by the owner himself. However, if there are not so many questions about the reliability of classic “automatic machines” with a torque converter, then there are much more questions with robotic boxes.
The same applies to CVT transmissions, where " weak link" is the variator belt. However, manufacturers are trying to solve design flaws and already there are variators with a lamellar chain instead of a V-belt. There are also a number of other prejudices.
In particular, many motorists are sure that it is impossible to perform engine braking on an automatic box. A similar legend arose from the fact that in the standard “drive” mode, the car really does not slow down due to the power unit.
However, on a long descent, it is enough to press the "O / D" button, and the car, throwing off several gears "down", will begin a smooth deceleration. However, this opportunity should not be used at speeds above 120 kilometers per hour, since a sharp jerk will cause an increased load on the transmission elements.
By the way, on steep descent at low speed, you can use the "2" mode. Thanks to him, the car will not accelerate, and the movement will be smooth and safe. Another very popular opinion among car lovers is that it is impossible to tow a car with automatic transmission. This statement is also false. However, towing should always be done with the engine running, locking the gearbox selector in the “N” position.
In addition, the towing speed should not exceed 50 kilometers per hour, and it can be carried out no further than 50 kilometers. Another thing is that towing is mainly resorted to if power unit does not work. And in this case, towing is strictly prohibited, since it will lead to a breakdown of an expensive transmission. Before you start driving an automatic transmission, you should definitely remember this and stock up on a tow truck call phone in advance. However, even with the engine running, towing is an extreme measure, which should be resorted to only in hopeless situations. An important aspect when driving a "machine" is the undesirability of working as a "tug" for another car. 
If such a role cannot be avoided, you can only tow a car with a mass less than or equal to your car, using transmission modes "2" or "L". At the same time, the speed of movement should not exceed forty kilometers per hour. There is another aspect, the opinion about which in the “near-automobile” environment varies greatly. It concerns starting a car using towing. In principle, those who oppose such actions are most right, since any mistake can be extremely costly. However, in life there are situations when such an option is the only one.
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In this case, the automatic transmission selector must be set to the “N” position and the ignition turned on. After that, you need to press the “gas” pedal once to enrich the mixture and allow the tug to accelerate your car to at least 30 kilometers per hour. After that, you need to turn on the "2" mode and press the gas. After the motor has started, it is required to return the selector to the neutral position. At the same time, if the engine does not start, you need to disable the "2" mode in order to avoid overheating of the transmission. However, it should again be remembered that this method highly undesirable.
Thus, before you start driving an automatic transmission, you should study and understand the principles of operation of this transmission. Without this understanding, it is very easy to disable a complex device, and this should always be remembered. If you learn these simple principles, then the "machine" will become an excellent assistant, which will only please and not cause much trouble.
Do you have an SUV? If the answer is yes, then next question will be predictable for you. Do you go off-road? And yes again? Then you should watch this video, maybe you will learn something new from it.
Any car enthusiast knows a long-standing dispute that no one can still solve. Which gearbox is better, manual or automatic? This burning topic excites equally strongly both fans sports cars, and ordinary, ordinary cars"for every day", do not stand aside and jeepers, who also cannot decide which advantages of the two types of transmissions are more important.
If for racers the issue is gearshift speed, gear shifting clarity and the presence of a sense of better control over the car (on this account, each of the camps of adherents of the two technologies has its own arguments), for ordinary people, such important properties as efficiency, smooth gear shifting and acceleration dynamics up to 100 km/h (again, some argue that with automatic transmission a car can be economical and fast, others are sure that only mechanics can give the required qualities). And what is important for off-road use? The answer is obvious to those who have ever ventured on real off-road - smoothness, control and traction.
The video explains the main pros and cons of the two types of checkpoints on two identical Jeep cars Cherokee. Basically the difference comes down to the control of the car. On manual box more control, you will always know how the SUV will behave in a given situation. Thanks to engine braking, descending from steep slopes and the passage of icy areas will be much safer due to low speed movement, such to achieve on an automatic transmission without auxiliary systems control is impossible. See how a Jeep with an automatic transmission almost uncontrollably flies down a slope, a dangerous race.
Also on the mechanics, you can select the desired gear to prevent wheel spin on surfaces with a low level of grip, for example, on packed snow or on ice. And finally, a mechanical transmission will allow a stuck car to get out without outside help; any motorist knows about the “buildup” technique (gas-clutch release-gas). His more comfortable opponent is not capable of such tricks.
With which transmission is it better to choose an SUV if you plan to often go off-road? Consider the advantages and disadvantages of gearboxes different types on the example of two Mitsubishi - Pajero Sport with "automatic" and L200 with "mechanics".
Modern automatic transmissions are well prepared for serious off-road. Especially when the transmission has manual mode allowing engine braking. But still, the good old "mechanics" have whole line undeniable advantages.
Passion for resource
If the choice fell on a car that is bought specifically for off-road, then at some point the question will inevitably arise of installing larger diameter tires, which will significantly increase ground clearance cars. And here the “automatic” is the weak link, because the load on its clutch packs will increase significantly, which significantly reduces the resource of an expensive node. "Mechanics" in this regard is preferable - it is not only stronger, more durable, but also cheaper to repair.
When you try to rock the car when you are stuck, the transmission resource suffers. In the “mechanics”, the exact control of the buildup can significantly reduce the load, when the driver clearly captures the moments of the car hanging at the extreme points and in right time turns on transmission. For an “automatic” such procedures are dangerous, because to switch between first and reverse gear it is necessary to pause, ignoring this will lead to a rapid overheating of the transmission, up to a complete breakdown of the assembly. In addition, there is a risk of accidentally moving the shift lever to the "Park" position.
Power of the third pedal
The trouble with any automatic transmission is the impossibility of "priming" the clutch due to its absence. When is it needed? On slippery surfaces (snow, swamp, sand) very often. After all, the automatic transmission, even with filigree work with the gas pedal, often breaks the wheels into slip, which can aggravate the situation. By carefully working with the clutch pedal, slipping can be easily avoided. Sometimes even a short contact of the wheel with the surface is enough to start moving in these conditions.
Another point is the beginning of movement in deep sand, where, in order to successfully start, the engine must be spun into the optimal rev range. For a car with automatic transmission in this case, you need a very powerful engine with good torque at low revs.
A manual transmission is preferable and if necessary get out of a deep rut. In this case, it is also necessary precise work with gas and clutch pedals.
The choice is clear
So, off-road, the comfort of an automatic transmission does not work, but, on the contrary, causes unnecessary trouble. Of course, the ideal option would be to have two cars: a standard one with an "automatic" for the city and light off-road and trained on the "mechanics". If this is not possible, but there is an irresistible desire to climb into the very jungle, away from the roads, then we recommend a car with manual transmission. By the way, such a car is also more economical.
First of all, you need to decide what the car is for. "Automatic" may be preferred when you mainly move around the city. In this case, you can turn a blind eye to many shortcomings when traveling on heavy off-road. But if you often travel outside the city, then the "mechanics" is definitely better. Only with a manual gearbox, if necessary, you can rock the car, it is easier with it in the sand, as well as when starting off on a slippery surface. And this means that the driver of a car with "mechanics" is much less likely to have to resort to the help of improvised means, such as a shovel, jack, sand trucks, a winch and a tug.
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* Each person loves to communicate with nature, but he always meets obstacles on his way that you cannot overcome without a certain skill. If there is no experience, you have to spend a lot of time and effort to drive a hundred, or even a dozen meters. It can be snow or sand drifts, a ford or a deep puddle, a slippery slope or slope, a washed out road or a deep rut. The skill comes with time, and knowledge of the basic techniques found by drivers and prompted by life itself will help reduce it. The ability to overcome this or that obstacle is limited by a number of factors: tractive effort, which have the drive wheels; their adhesion to the ground; the distance from the reference plane of the wheels to the lowest point of the car (ground clearance), the height of the location and the security of the nodes that are afraid of water (distributor, ignition coil, candles and exhaust pipe). * A few words should be said about the effort on the drive wheels. There are concepts such as torque and gear ratios transmission. These parameters are set by the constructor. Each driver can change their optimal values by varying the speed crankshaft engine and including one or another gear of the gearbox. When do you have to use the maximum value of these parameters? When driving on soft ground, when the wheels sink deep, but do not slip. Here, rollers formed in front of the rear and front wheels. Their wheels are partially crushed, partially pushed in front of them. Almost all the energy of the engine is spent on this work. When it dries up, the engine speed and vehicle speed decrease despite the increased pressure on the accelerator pedal. There are jerks in the transmission. The car dies down in exhaustion, unable to overcome the resistance. What can be done in such a situation? First of all, you should lighten the car as much as possible by disembarking passengers or removing cargo. Then you need to smoothly drive back and also smoothly, accelerating, “ram” the formed obstacle.
* If you are stuck in mud or snow in an automatic transmission car, do not try to rock the stalled car.
First of all, let's figure out what should be understood by the term "buildup". Everyone who has ever pulled out a stuck car knows that if it didn’t work out the first time, you should push it in sync with natural frequency fluctuations in the knurled recess. At the same time, the amplitude of movements increases, and at some point the wheels roll over the obstacle.
The same result can be achieved if, synchronously with the rocking of the car, switch the first and reverse speed, "pushing" it with the engine. Since the period of natural oscillations of a stuck car rarely exceeds a second, the gear lever has to be operated with maximum intensity. But the mechanical box is good because it turns on almost instantly. The "automatic" is more "thoughtful", after moving the selector handle it needs a few tenths of a second. Some designs allow you to shorten this gap by increasing the engine speed before the transmission is fully connected. But at the same time, the gears are switched on more rigidly, and the load on the clutches of the box increases many times.
* Often the turned front wheels interfere with getting out of a deep rut. Sometimes it is enough to install them directly to make the car budge. Sometimes, to get out of a deep rut, it is not enough to turn the wheels. In this case, it is necessary to dig with a shovel a gentle exit in front or behind in the direction of the car.
* When approaching a difficult section of the road, try to remember that the greater the inertia of the car, the higher the engine speed and the lower the gear, the more resistance the car can overcome. Therefore, having assessed the severity of the obstacle in advance, find such a mode of movement in order to skip the entire section on the move. Of course, on the way there may be such soil, sand or snow that the wheels will get stuck on the hub and the car will sit on the bottom. To prevent this from happening, everything that comes to hand should first be laid along the track: boards, branches, stones. In extreme cases, when very viscous soil comes across, and attempts to get out on their own are ineffective, it is better, in order not to damage the car, to resort to the help of a tug, winch or jack.
* By using manual winch you can quickly pull out a stuck car weighing up to 1 ton. For rural residents, hunters and fishermen, whose path is usually not limited to asphalt, such a winch is a must. She is able to come to the aid of a car stuck on a slippery slope, in a river or a deep puddle. Support for the winch (if it does not have special device) can serve as a tree, a stake, a shovel and even a mounting blade from a driver's tool.
* Great help in overcoming difficult areas is provided by various devices on the drive wheels: chains, bracelets, brackets of various designs. An effective and probably the simplest device to overcome slipping is a metal mesh with cells measuring 20 × 20 mm, which is placed under the wheels. Two strips of such a grid measuring 0.4 × 1.5 m can be easily placed in the trunk.
* Every driver should know that the higher the engine speed and the more abruptly the transmission is engaged, the sooner the drive wheels will start to spin. To avoid this, you need to learn to "feel" the engine. This is perhaps the most difficult thing to find and maintain optimal mode, which in many cases will ensure success. How can this be learned? Only through training. Drive on packed snow in first gear. Try to slowly and then quickly increase the engine speed with the accelerator pedal. The car will first accelerate, then at some point its speed will begin to decrease, and the engine will “howl” without your intervention. This will mean that one or two drive wheels have slipped (slid) and, since the resistance to their rotation has sharply decreased, the engine speed has increased. 
Now repeat the maneuver, carefully "listening" to the engine. As soon as the crankshaft speed starts to rise arbitrarily, smoothly remove the “gas”, shift to second gear and accelerate the car.
In the process of training, you will notice that the car is sensitive not only to changes in engine speed, but also to manipulation of the clutch pedal. It is worth releasing it a little sharper, wheel slip will immediately follow. Overcoming a difficult section, it is better not to touch this pedal at all, so that there is no reason for a stop. If in a particular situation you cannot do without a clutch, you need to turn it on and off smoothly and carefully, focusing on the engine speed.
* The crankshaft speed must be constant and when driving along slippery road. Be aware that any change in engine operating conditions can cause an unexpected and unwanted stop. It is unpleasant when a section of a muddy road appears on the way, and even with a deep rut, because pulling out a car that has settled on a bridge or bottom is almost an art. In fact, in other cases it is enough to push it or take it in tow. Here, such actions can lead to damage to the components and parts located under the bottom. Having met such a blurred section of the road, you must first carefully examine it and, if necessary, prepare it for a safe crossing. When the track is too deep for a long distance, they try to keep it between the wheels. Hard and wide ridges are easy to drive, but soft and narrow ones are very difficult. In order not to move off the ridges into a deep rut, it is better when the wheels of one side are on the rut, and the other side is on the side of the road. In this position, it is much easier to keep the right direction, since the wheels running along the track require almost no steering.
* Cautions are undoubtedly helpful. But what to do when the car still sat on the ground? First of all, you need to get out of the car and look around. Depending on the reasons and specific road conditions should be taken necessary measures. In most cases, it is advisable to move the car back. If it doesn’t work out, you should try to raise it with a jack and remove the “extra” land. Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the installation of a jack, since the place for it is often inappropriate - mud or sand. A board, a flat stone, is usually placed under the heel of the jack house, but in such a way that the upper part of the jack is 0.15-0.20 m from the car doors, otherwise the jack will damage it when fully raised.
Only in one case can the jack be replaced by a tug without the risk of damaging the car, when the front wheels hit a ditch or pit. In this case, the end of the log or two poles connected by the letter X are substituted under the towing cable, tilting them towards the car. When the cable is pulled, the front end will rise and the vehicle will move forward.
* Last barrier on thorny path- water. Probably, there is no need to say that, "not knowing the ford, do not go into the water." And if you do climb, move slowly. Trouble can begin if water floods the breaker-distributor and the ignition coil, candles, or even worse, gets into the exhaust pipe. If the engine froze due to the fault of the distributor, candles or coil, they can be opened, turned out and wiped or blown with a jet compressed air from the pump. These operations are unpleasant to perform while standing in the water, but still a way out. An engine stopped in the water with a flooded exhaust pipe the muffler is useless. It is necessary to pull the car ashore and remove water from the pipe, driving onto a hillock.
* When overcoming serious water obstacles, remember that high speed by no means guarantees safe passage and, first of all, for the engine. Water may get into intake manifold, and there close to the cylinders. If there is a lot of it, water hammer is inevitable. Water, unlike air, is incompressible: the piston will hit the water from the entire stroke, as if it were a wall, and the pressure in the cylinder will exceed the norm several times.
Bent or broken connecting rods are the result of an unsuccessful crossing of a water barrier.
It happens that the engine (if the speed is low) can simply stop. Try starting it with a starter. If it does not work, turn out the candles and turn the crankshaft.
Water will exit the cylinders through the holes, and the engine can be started. If there is a knock in the block, then the connecting rods are damaged and the engine must be stopped immediately. If everything worked out, you are very lucky.
* After passing through the water, the level of which reaches brake drums be sure to dry the brakes. To do this, pull the lever a little hand brake. Pay special attention to this operation.
* The situations considered, of course, do not give an idea of \u200b\u200ball cases that are possible where the road is not well-maintained. As experience shows, knowledge, ingenuity and resourcefulness help to find a way out of any situation.
Some argue that the road to the off-road is ordered for off-road SUVs with automatic transmission, while others, on the contrary, believe that you can drive anywhere on the machine. Both are right to some extent. Driving instructors say that on classic automatic transmission you can ride off-road, but subject to a number of important rules.
What is the weakness of the automatic transmission?
What is the most important off-road? Autoinstructors sure that the most important thing is not to get stuck. Although, if you know some of the nuances of driving, you can emerge victorious from any off-road.
There is a well-established stereotype among drivers that the automatic machine is weaker than the mechanics. We agree that in the middle of the twentieth century, the first automatic transmissions did not shine with high reliability. But today, some automata are even superior to mechanics in many ways. Let us recall at least the sensational story with the TaGAZ Tiger, in which a factory defect in a mechanical box led to the breakdown of the entire assembly. But the options with automatic transmission served their happy owners perfectly.
It's no secret that automatic transmissions require a more careful attitude, and you need to drive such a car more carefully. Without knowing how to drive a car with automatic transmission, you can easily break this unit.
But if we talk about reliability classic boxes with a torque converter, then there are much fewer failures than, for example, in robotic boxes. The same applies to CVT models, where the CVT belt is the “weak link”. Manufacturers are doing their best to minimize these design flaws. In particular, variators began to appear, where instead of a V-belt there is a lamellar chain.
If you are stuck...
If you're stuck in mud or snow in an automatic car, don't rock the stalled car. To begin with, let's figure out what a "buildup" is. If you have ever been stuck in a car, then you know that this very “buildup” helps to pull the wheels out of captivity. You simply simultaneously push the car in the knurled recess. At the same time, the amplitude of movements increases, and the wheels easily overcome the obstacle after several swings.
An excellent result can be achieved by rocking the machine while switching the first and reverse gear. Since the auto oscillation time, as a rule, does not exceed one second, the gear lever has to be worked with maximum intensity. WITH mechanical box everything is simple, but on the machine such a “buildup” can not always help.
Thoughtful automaton
The automatic transmission is also called a thoughtful gearbox, since after the selector has been translated, it needs some more time. Some designs allow you to shorten this period of time, they increase the speed of the motor until the transmission is fully connected.
In this case, a more rigid gear engagement occurs, and the load on the clutches of the box increases significantly. Therefore, you should be very careful, know your car and its capabilities.
Box modes
There are special modes on the automatic transmission that you should not forget about:
- L and Snow are downshift, which is recommended to be turned on for off-road driving at speeds up to 20 km / h, as well as on sharp ups and downs.
- Snow mode - perfectly copes with the winter road and ice. Acceleration in this case begins with the second gear, and this prevents the drive wheels from slipping. In summer, this mode is often used to save fuel.
Video about the rules of off-road driving with automatic transmission:
Good luck and easy journey!
The article used an image from the site drive2.ru
