Having a car has a huge number of various advantages - you can safely get to work or study without spending a huge amount of time on it, you can travel to any point on land without depending on buses, planes and other vehicles. You can always get out wherever you want, whether it's a shop, a cottage or a trip to the forest. However, it is necessary to understand that the car is not only pure pleasure. Like a pet that brings a lot of joy, a car needs to be looked after - and it can have its own problems, malfunctions and breakdowns. Naturally, at the first trifle, you can always take the car to a service station, but most motorists refuse to do this. Someone does not want to spend extra money, and someone simply believes that he must cope with all the problems own car on one's own. It is for such people that this article was written, in which it is analyzed in detail why the engine smokes in your car. This problem is very common - the exhaust pipe constantly sends exhaust into the atmosphere, however this occurs in small quantities and imperceptibly. But if you start the engine and exhaust pipe smoke is pouring - this means that trouble has come. What to do if the engine smokes? First of all, you need to determine what the problem is. And you can do this already by the color of the smoke.
smoke color
So, if your engine smokes, then you need to either take the car for repair, or figure it out yourself. And the first step is to determine the color of the smoke coming from the motor. Most often it can be white, black and gray - naturally, each of these colors can have shades, but if you divide the smoke from the engine into main groups, then they will be just that. Also, sometimes literally transparent smoke can come out of the pipe, and this can also indicate some malfunctions, although most often there is nothing wrong with this situation. However, each of the colors of smoke will be discussed in more detail. You'll learn exactly what's wrong with your car depending on how your engine smokes, and you'll be able to figure out what you should do if you're having a problem.
transparent smoke
Many drivers are wondering why it smokes. They are wondering why from gasoline engine can throw clouds of smoke. All these problems cause a real panic for a novice car enthusiast, but if the smoke does not come directly from your engine, which is burning before your eyes, there is no reason for it. Any malfunction can be identified and then corrected. And for starters, it’s worth looking at the most harmless moment - when you have transparent or whitish smoke coming out of your engine, which is practically invisible. In fact, this is not even smoke, but steam that forms in an unheated system. Most often this can be seen in the winter, when the engine starts after a night of inactivity. It constantly heats up, and with it the exhaust system heats up, from which steam comes out. You can make sure that this is by attaching any vessel to the exhaust pipe at any other time - condensate will form on its walls. The problem is just that the steam goes in winter time in large quantities, and when water starts to drip from the exhaust pipe, many beginners begin to panic and think that something terrible has happened. But in fact, everything is in order, and you have absolutely nothing to worry about. As soon as the engine and the entire exhaust system warms up, the steam will either disappear completely or be reduced to a minimum amount that you will no longer notice. As you can already understand, this case does not require any repair, however, there are other situations when you would like to know why it smokes or any other engine installed on your car. Indeed, in some cases, smoke can mean a serious problem.
Black smoke
As you could already understand, if your engine smokes, the reasons for this can be very diverse, and you yourself can install them if you analyze what color the smoke coming from the exhaust pipe is. The case with transparent smoke has already been considered, and now it's time to move on to its complete opposite - black smoke. This is a rather frightening sight, and can be seen when a huge truck is driving on the road, for example. Often, its exhausts are terribly black, which is why such exhausts are the most pursued in terms of environmental damage. However, what to do if black smoke comes out of your engine? In the first place, overload can be the cause - as is the case with trucks and tractors. But given the fact that it is passenger car, this option is unlikely. Therefore, the most plausible is the problem of mixture formation. What does this mean? This means that the mixture that enters the engine contains too much of the fuel itself - and the result is not only unpleasant black smoke, but also excessive fuel consumption. So the problem is most likely somewhere in fuel equipment or in the engine management system. The first thing you should pay attention to is the air filter. If it is clogged, then the air supply is blocked, which leads to its shortage and, accordingly, to an excess of fuel in the final mixture. The next item is compression. You need to study your engine cylinders. If they are damaged, the combustion process will not correspond to the calculated one, resulting in a lack of power and, accordingly, an over-enrichment of fuel. Well, another common case is wrong job engine control sensors. As a result, the systems work "blindly", which is why malfunctions appear. Most often, in this case, a light on your dashboard lights up, notifying you of the need to check the engine, but another failure may occur and the signal will not come - then you will have to check everything yourself. The simplest way diagnostics is a test of spark plugs. If black smoke from the exhaust pipe is the result, then you will find black deposits on the candles. This will mean that it's time to repair the car - it is also highly recommended to replace the candles themselves if they are covered with a coating due to the fact that your engine is smoking. The causes of black smoke should now be clear to you, so you can proceed to the analysis of the next color.
White smoke
You have already learned why the engine smokes in the cold season - transparent steam from the exhaust pipe appears when the engine and exhaust system have not had time to warm up, resulting in condensation. Now the case will be considered when steam also pours out of the exhaust pipe, but at the same time it is not transparent, does not dissipate so quickly, and warming up the engine does not solve the problem that has arisen. White smoke is the result of a malfunction in the cooling system. Depending on what kind of coolant you use, the puffs of white smoke may have different shades, but the cause will remain the same - the cooling system is not working properly. And you should not delay the repair, because, as you will understand further, this can cause serious damage to your car. So, the most common reason for the appearance of a large amount of white smoke from the exhaust pipe is the ingress of water into the cylinders of your engine. You can disassemble the cylinders and check the spark plugs to see if there is a problem. If water gets into the cylinder, then the candle will have the same coating as inside your electric kettle - in other words, scale. This is not the end of the world or a disaster - you just need to check all the cylinders, determine which ones have plaque, and then repair or replace them. And it's best to do it at a professional station Maintenance, since in most cases the cause of this malfunction is improper assembly of the engine, and poor-quality spare parts, on which many motorists are trying to save money, can also have their say.
Also, the cause of this malfunction may be engine overheating - in this case, you should also contact a specialist so that he not only repairs or replaces the cylinders, but also makes a complete diagnosis to identify the causes of overheating. However, the situation can actually be much less simple, it can also have a much less pleasant outcome for the driver. The fact is that liquid entering the cylinders can lead to the appearance of clouds of white smoke escaping from the exhaust pipe. But you will only get by with a lot of steam if you use high-quality coolant. If you decide to save money here and bought cheap antifreeze, then it can literally “eat” the insides of your motor due to leakage. As a result, corrosion will spread to vital important details your engine, and it can only be sent for recycling - such damage cannot be repaired.
So if you are wondering why the engine is smoking, then you should not do it on the go. Deal with the problem, fix it, and then keep driving your car.
Bluish (gray) smoke
If you are smoking or gasoline engine, and at the same time the smoke has a bluish tint, the reason lies in the fact that too much oil enters the cylinders. As a result, the puffs of smoke are very thick and take the longest time to dissipate compared to the previous cases described. Moreover, most often they have a characteristic smell of burnt oil. It is worth paying attention to the fact that it is far from always possible to determine at first glance that this smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe at all. Considering that a wide variety of factors can influence its appearance, from the quality of engine oil to the air temperature outside, shades of blue can also be very different. And in some cases, the blueness is so faint that it's almost impossible to distinguish such smoke from standard exhausts. However, the check is extremely simple - you need to carefully monitor the oil level, since if it leaks, it will be obvious that it is overused. As for physical factors, all you need is your nose and a sheet of white paper. With your nose, you can easily smell the oil in the exhaust, even if they have a completely normal color, and quite noticeable oily spots will appear on a piece of paper that must be placed next to the exhaust pipe. Well, now you've confirmed that you have engine oil problems, you know why your engine is smoking blue smoke. It's time to deal with the malfunctions, which in this case there can be a lot of variety.
Valve stem seals
As you have already seen, if your engine smokes white smoke, then there may be several reasons for this. But in the case of a bluish tint, the causes can be numerous, so you should carefully consider each of them, as any may be relevant in your case. The most common cause of bluish smoke is damaged. These caps should hold the oil until it needs to be supplied. But due to damage to the cap, oil leaks even when it is not needed, which is why it accumulates too much. That is why, if this part is damaged, then after long parking at the first start you can see a huge cloud of bluish smoke coming out of your exhaust pipe. In most cases, it all depends on the quality of the caps themselves - if it is high, then the oil will not leak even after several years of operation, and if it is low, then leaks can begin almost immediately, let alone a year or even several years. By this time, the bad cap will most likely fall apart. So if you have a bluish smoke in a cold engine, then first of all you need to pay attention to valve stem seals, since due to the lack of tightness of damaged parts, even in an unstarted engine, the “supply” of oil continues, which then burns out at the factory.
Oil scraper rings
Also, if your engine smokes blue smoke, then the problem may also lie in, or rather, in their wear or occurrence. These rings are designed to remove excess oil film, and if they fail to do their job, then, as you might guess, excess oil gets into the cylinders. Of course, the effect is not the same as with severe damage valve stem seals, but the oil loss is still noticeable, and the engine still continues to smoke. This problem can be solved by decoking these rings, but you should not think that this procedure will solve all your problems at once. After the decarbonization procedure, the rings begin to fully function, but you will have to monitor the activity of your engine very carefully. After all, after this procedure, the spring properties of the rings are significantly reduced, which is why their occurrence can happen much more often, especially with careless handling. As you can see, if your diesel engine smokes black smoke, finding the cause of the malfunction and fixing it is much easier than if the smoke is blue. After all, caps and rings are not all that can be faulty in a car, which causes blue smoke, you have a few more cases to consider.
Turbine
If you have a turbocharger installed in your car, then the reason may be in it, or rather, in its malfunction. What to do in this case, if your engine smokes? VAZ is one of the cars that can be taken as an example. It has a turbocharger installed, and if it is in poor condition, the result can be thick bluish smoke, which is damaging to the environment, leads to excessive oil consumption, as well as bad smell and not very attractive appearance. What happens inside the engine? The fact is that the bearings of the turbine are automatically lubricated with oil for its further operation, however, in the presence of malfunctions, the oil that was intended for lubrication gets into intake tract. Well, the result of excess oil during combustion is the aforementioned bluish smoke. What to do in this case?
There are not many options here - you will have to repair the turbocharger turbine. If you have the skills and necessary tools then you can do it yourself. However, it is still recommended to leave this to specialists who will cope with the task faster and more efficiently. But before proceeding with the repair, you need to make sure that the problem really lies in the turbine - as you already understood, there can be a lot of reasons for the appearance of smoke, and it is always worthwhile to first deal directly with the causes of the malfunction, and then fix it pointwise . To do this, you need to remove the air duct that connects the turbine and the engine and check for oil inside. If it is there, then this means that the leak actually exists, and you will have to make serious repairs. However, in this case we are talking about a rather neglected situation, which can still be prevented if you take care of your engine in advance. When you have any suspicion that there is too much oil in the turbine, then you need to take a clean cloth (it should be light and allow liquid and air to pass through easily, gauze is best) and stretch it on the nozzle in place throttle connections. After that, you need to start the car and depress the gas pedal several times, then turn it off and check the fabric that you previously stretched. If there are traces of oil on it, then you already have a problem - it's just at an early stage, and it will be quite simple to solve it, at least much easier than when you already directly notice oil accumulations in the duct.
As you can see, if your diesel engine smokes black smoke, then the problem can be solved much faster, but this does not mean that its solution will be less costly - if proper care behind the car, regardless of the color of the smoke, you can quickly find and fix any problem.
Poor oil quality
Naturally, there are a huge number of reasons why the color of smoke from the exhaust pipe can be blue, but it makes no sense to describe them all - here you will find only the most famous and common cases. For example, in no case should you forget about the oil itself - many motorists immediately start searching inside the car, but in fact, the cause of the problem may lie in what kind of oil you pour into the engine. If it turned out to be not of the highest quality, then its properties may differ from quality product. Accordingly, it is impossible to clearly say anything about its behavior in the engine - you need to check what kind of product you purchased, and if its quality turns out to be far from ideal, it is better to change it immediately. After all, if you continue to use it because you have already spent money on it, you can cause even more serious damage to your car.
But there is another option - a similar problem can occur when you use oil highest quality. The reason in this case may be overheating of the oil, as a result of which it will lose its properties. Naturally, in everyday life this happens extremely rarely, because in fact, extreme conditions are necessary for oil to overheat - which is why special sensors are always installed in racers' cars to check the temperature of the oil. But if you load up your car, put your whole family in it, and go on a hot day downhill to rest, then the combination of all factors can lead to overheating of the oil and, accordingly, the loss of all its functions. In this case, nothing can be done - you just have to change the oil prematurely and try to prevent such situations from occurring again.
Other cases
No matter what the circumstances are - your engine is spewing black smoke, puffs of bluish smoke, or just a huge amount of white steam - you should never rule out the possibility that something special has happened to you. Of course, first of all, you should use this guide and check all the most common cases, since most often the problem occurs in motorists more than once. But sometimes the reasons are not the most standard - causing smoke, for example, can cause a microcrack in the engine. There are even cases when the engine smokes black or blue smoke if the driver has filled in fuel tank not the type of fuel that is intended for a particular engine. Remember that there is a way out of any situation, and if you cannot find it yourself, then contact the experts.
What the color of the smoke from the exhaust pipe will tell about: black, blue (gray) or white, each color has its own meaning.
Everyone knows - when the engine smokes, it is "not a gut." Many believe that without opening and troubleshooting the cause of smoke from the exhaust pipe cannot be determined. Yes, with such accuracy, which this procedure shows, this is impossible. But there are a number of signs that help identify a malfunction even before disassembly - this allows you to predict the time and cost of repairs.
Black smoke: gasoline engine
Black smoke from the exhaust pipe of a gasoline engine is a consequence of burning too much fuel, that is, a very rich mixture. In this case, there are several options for malfunctions that are worth checking:
- Adjust carburetor. If there is not enough knowledge and practice in this area, then you should not try to do it yourself - this is a very delicate process that requires extreme accuracy and a complete understanding of the matter.
- Check the tightness of the injectors. If they do not close completely, then an uncontrolled amount of fuel enters the cylinders, which burns out, this produces soot, so the smoke is black.
- Check sensor mass flow air (DMRV). If it is faulty, it shows the wrong amount of passing air, respectively, a disproportionate amount of gasoline is supplied to the cylinders, so there is black smoke from the exhaust pipe.
Black smoke: diesel engine
Here the reasons are practically the same, there are only a few more subtle points. If black smoke comes out of the exhaust on a diesel engine, then you need to check several possible reasons:
- Rail pressure too high. The common rail diesel engine has a fuel pump high pressure(TNVD) to be calibrated. So, if its setting is incorrect, then such a picture will be observed.
- In general, all other reasons why there is black smoke on a diesel engine do not differ from a gasoline engine.
Blue smoke: gasoline engine
In such a situation, you need to be ready for repair. If the engine smokes blue smoke, this is a sure sign of oil in the cylinders. How it gets there is another question, as a rule, this is a consequence of the wear of parts.
The engine smokes blue smoke because the oil burns along with the gasoline. Therefore, it is worth considering where it comes from. There are only two ways: from below and from above.
- Worn valve stem seals cause blue smoke to come out of the exhaust pipe. As a rule, the engine smokes blue smoke after changing the oil, especially if the change was not made at the right time. The point is that the old dirty oil has a higher viscosity, and the debris and dirt that it contains plays the role of an oil seal. Thus, as long as the old oil is filled in, the engine runs more or less normally. New oil washes all this, after which the valve stem seal becomes a filler neck.
- Worn oil scraper rings also cause the engine to smoke blue. Their role is to collect oil from the cylinder walls during the power stroke and intake, that is, when the piston tends to lower dead center. In simple terms, going down. If the rings are worn, then oil remains on the cylinder walls, after which it is collected by the compression rings during the compression and exhaust stroke, that is, when the piston goes up. In order to diagnose this malfunction, it is necessary to check the compression.
If the engine smokes with blue smoke, then you need to pay attention to the oil level and constantly monitor it, because "oil zhor" will appear in any case. After this malfunction has manifested itself, it is advisable to reduce your appetites and not turn the engine above 3000 rpm.
It is necessary to check the color of the smoke on a hot one, ideally during the start from a standstill uphill. It is also worth paying attention to the exhaust pipe - it must be dry. Oil, by its nature, does not burn out in the cylinders, but flies out into the exhaust tract with gases. Accordingly, its remains will be visible on the nozzle.
At diesel engine the reasons are exactly the same, so it makes no sense to consider it separately.
White smoke from the exhaust: causes, solutions
It also happens that the engine smokes white smoke. In this case, you must first pay attention to weather- it may just be steam, because traffic fumes have a high enough temperature. If there is no condensation on the pipe, then you should pay attention to the color of the spark plugs. In all likelihood they will have the same white coating like the color of the smoke. In that case, the matter is lean mixture. So, white smoke from the exhaust pipe can go for several reasons:
- Malfunction fuel pump, Consequently, insufficient pressure V fuel rail and lack of fuel combustible mixture.
- Clogged nozzles. Less fuel passes through them than expected the electronic unit engine control.
- hammered fuel filter. Again, lack of fuel.
What is dangerous smoke from the exhaust: black, gray or white
Of course, to the greatest consequences may produce blue smoke from the muffler. On the one hand, this is a trifle. On the other hand, complex, well-planned processes take place in the engine. Deviation from the algorithm leads to a malfunction.
So, for example, oil, getting into the exhaust manifold, settles on the valve seats. They have a very high temperature, so it burns instantly, forming a fairly thick coke layer. Because of this, the valve does not close completely, thereby reducing engine compression. Of course, this is unlikely to lead to a breakdown, but it will add a lot of trouble. The search for the reason that the engine does not pull and does not develop speed can be searched forever. So, soon this will lead to the fact that the valve will be constantly open, and these are pops in the muffler, increased fuel consumption, difficult start-up in cold weather.
In addition, this can cause the rings to get stuck in the grooves and decarbonization is required.
It is definitely worth clarifying, these are far from all the reasons that the engine smokes, there can be many more.
Video: why black smoke comes out of the exhaust
White smoke
White smoke from the exhaust pipe is quite normal during cold engine warm-ups. And it's not smoke at all, but steam. Vaporized water is a natural product of fuel combustion. In an unheated exhaust system, this vapor partially condenses and becomes visible, and water usually appears at the end of the exhaust pipe. As the system warms up, condensation decreases.
The colder environment, the denser and whiter the vapor is. At temperatures below -10 ° C, white vapor is also formed on a well-heated engine, and at a frost of minus 20-25 degrees it acquires a thick white color with a bluish tint. Humidity also affects the color and saturation of steam: the higher it is, the thicker the steam.
White smoke in warm weather and on a well-heated engine is most often associated with coolant entering the cylinders (for example, through a leaky head gasket).
Fluid can enter the cylinder due not only to gasket damage, but also to cracks in the cylinder head or block. All these defects during engine operation cause exhaust gases into the cooling system (sometimes a gas plug is even formed there), which serves as the basis for recognition.
All problems associated with white smoke from the exhaust pipe are usually caused by engine overheating. It is necessary to check and eliminate malfunctions in the cooling system - it is possible that the thermostat, the switch-on sensor, the clutch or the fan itself are not working, the radiator, its plug, hoses or connections are leaking.
If white smoke and its accompanying defects are noticed, then the car cannot be operated.
Blue or gray smoke
The main reason for the appearance of blue smoke is the ingress of oil into the engine cylinders. "Oil" smoke can have different shades - from transparent blue to thick white-blue, which depends on the mode of operation of the engine, the degree of its warming up and the amount of oil entering the cylinders, as well as illumination and other factors.
It is also clear that oil smoke is accompanied by increased oil consumption. So, at a flow rate of about 0.5 l/100 km, blue smoke appears mainly in transient modes, and when it reaches 1.0 l/100 km, it also appears in modes uniform motion. By the way, in the latter case, in transient conditions, the oil smoke becomes thick blue-white. True, the owners of the most modern machines we must remember about the possible presence of a converter that is able to clean the exhaust gases from oil even at fairly high costs.
Part wear cylinder-piston group One of the most common causes of oil smoke. There are frequent cases when, with a relatively decent condition of the rings and pistons, the surface of the cylinder is damaged. This happens, for example, with poor oil filtration, when abrasive particles get between the piston skirt and the cylinder. Then there are scratches on the cylinder.
A similar situation is real after a long parking of the car, when corrosion centers may appear on the surface of the cylinders and rings. The same effect often occurs when the engine repair technology is violated, if the surface of the repaired cylinder is too rough or the cylinder has an irregular shape, or poor-quality pistons are used and piston rings.
One more note about characteristic circumstances. When there are no large wear parts, then blue or blue-white smoke is clearly observed only when the engine is warmed up, gradually decreasing and even disappearing. The reason is simple: when heated, the parts take shape and take up space in which they better fit together. With excessive wear, the picture is reversed: the smoke on a warm engine will intensify, since it is easier for hot oil, which has a low viscosity, to enter the cylinder through worn parts.
In turbocharged engines, oil consumption accompanied by blue smoke is possible due to a malfunction of the turbocharger, in particular, worn bearings and rotor seals. Seal wear front bearing compressor gives a picture similar to the failure of valve stem seals (including oil soot on candles), but at the same time a puddle of oil collects in the compressor inlet pipe. It is difficult to determine a turbine seal failure, since the oil enters directly into the exhaust system and burns out there.
In operation, blue smoke and oil consumption often appear when one of the cylinders is turned off due to an ignition malfunction or valve leaks. In the latter case, the smoke becomes white-blue, especially if the valve has a clear burnout. Such a defect is easily determined - the compression in this cylinder is insignificant or absent at all, and an abundant black deposit appears on the candle, often in the form of growths.
There are also quite exotic defects that cause blue oil smoke. Yes, at automatic boxes gears with a vacuum load cell, the regulator diaphragm may break. Since its cavity is connected by a hose to the intake manifold, the engine simply begins to suck oil out of the gearbox.
Black smoke
Black smoke is often accompanied by high fuel consumption, bad start, unstable engine operation, high toxicity of exhaust gases, and often loss of power due to a non-optimal composition of the air-fuel mixture.
In carbureted engines, black smoke is usually caused by an overflow in the float chamber due to a defective needle valve or due to coking of the air jets.
For gasoline engines with electronic injection Fuel over-enrichment of the mixture appears, as a rule, in case of malfunction and failure of various sensors (oxygen, air flow, etc.), as well as in case of leakage of injectors. The latter case is dangerous due to water hammer in the cylinder at startup with all the negative consequences. In diesel engines, black smoke sometimes appears not only when there is a malfunction in the high-pressure pump, but also with a large injection advance angle.
Operating an engine with such malfunctions is not only difficult, but also highly undesirable, since it quickly leads to new, much more serious troubles.
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My kettle stood for 3 months, didn’t start, started smoking why everything seemed to be fine, but now I don’t know tell me!!! what to do?
PLEASE HELP TO SOLVE MY PROBLEM - I HAVE HINO F17E. ENGINE :) TEL SMOKE WHITE SMOKE AT 1500 RPM!!! I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO!!!
please tell me: recently he himself did a major overhaul of the VAZ-21213 engine, he only rented a block for boring, he disassembled it himself, he assembled it himself. Observed all the tightening torques of the nuts. when the first start of the engine was made, it began to smoke, it is clear why. in two hours permanent job to the hall the engine did not stop smoking! Why???
Owners of personal vehicles eventually face the problem “Why does the engine smoke?” and “Do I need to do something urgently?”. There is no single answer. There are 3 types of exhaust smoke.
Its occurrence is associated primarily with the formation of condensate. Often . If this phenomenon occurs in winter or at high humidity, then the owner should not worry - this is the steam formed during heating.
The reason for the appearance of such smoke on a warm engine may be the ingress of antifreeze into the block. But there is a characteristic feature here - a specific smell of smoke, you can’t confuse it with anything, very unpleasant. The ingress of antifreeze into the cylinders disrupts the working processes and leads to a violation of the cleanliness of the surface of the cylinders and an increase in the wear of the main parts. It is impossible to ignore such a defect!
Black smoke
Black color car exhaust
Its appearance is associated with enriched fuel-air mixture, i.e. the amount of gasoline exceeds the calculated one. This leads to the washing of oil from the cylinder walls by gasoline and, as a result, the failure of the cylinder-piston pair. It is also possible that the engine will be subjected to water hammer.
The main companion of black exhaust is increased gas mileage. The reasons that the engine smokes may be malfunctions of the fuel supply, ignition or injection control systems.
gray smoke
If water and gasoline were the causes of white and black smoke, then oil is the cause. If you doubt the color of the smoke, then whether it was "oily" can be determined by the condition of the exhaust pipe. In this case, it will be fat. A faithful companion of gray smoke is increased oil consumption.
Why does the engine smoke and consume oil?
This is due to oil entering the combustion chamber either through the piston lubrication system or from the valve side. If this is due to wear of the cylinder-piston group, then you will have to resort to switching to the repair piston size and honing the cylinders. If the cause is in the valves, then their caps will have to be replaced. In turbocharged engines, oil can leak from the turbocharger seals.
But what if the engine eats oil but doesn't smoke?
Then this is a banal leak. Visually inspect the parking lot of the car, if it didn’t tell you anything, then this is not a gearbox. Inspect the engine in the area of the gaskets of the valve cover, pan. And everything is clean there? Then the reason may be in the seals on the crankshaft or in the seals on the distributor.
Smoke additives
Engine additives
Additives are aimed at increasing wear resistance, reducing friction, and increasing compression. All this is achieved due to the sticking of the film in defective areas of rubbing surfaces. If you have smoke due to minor wear piston-cylinder group, then finally, of course, it will not save, but as a temporary solution it will work.
The use of additives can be an option for a temporary solution to the problem.
And if your cause of smoke is, for example, a sensor failure, then no oil additives, alas, will help you.
Thus, the use of additives will not free you from constant control for his vehicle and from periodic diagnosis of his condition.
Oil consumption largely depends on its viscosity and quality. If everything is more or less clear with viscosity, the thinner the oil, the more it flows through various seals, then the quality is a little more complicated. The fact is that most car owners prefer to buy engine oil for your engine for reasons of "cheaper". But so that all labels, markings, packaging, the name of the company - everything is in stock. With such an installation, they easily "fall" on a fake. And it’s not even in such cases, they are quite rare, when somewhere in the basement cheap industrial oil is poured into packages from branded motor oil. It is enough to re-stick labels already on finished products so that an ordinary Lukoil turns into an elite Castrol. And it will also be a fake!
But let's say you managed to buy a really branded and relatively cheap product. Let's say. But the fact is that the vast majority of modern Japanese engines are highly accelerated units. There are four valves per cylinder, which means the engine is already boosted. Not to mention VVTi, Super Charge, Turbo systems, etc. And a high degree of forcing, in turn, means that all the "pieces of iron" inside the engine have a very high temperature. And for normal operation all these "pieces of iron" require only high-quality and by no means the cheapest engine oil. Otherwise, overheating of the oil and its destruction follows. Ugar, as they say in some manuals.
For example, open filler neck on the valve cover of your engine. What do you see inside? That's right, black soot. Where is the soot from? Yes, oil. From too high a temperature, cheap engine oil is destroyed and deposited on the walls. Oil burnout occurs, and its level in the crankcase decreases. This, in turn, among other negative consequences, leads to a decrease in the oil level in the engine, which again does not have the best effect on its ability to cool in the oil pan. This means that in the future there will be even more overheating of engine oil. The durability of an engine with such (cheap) motor oil, alas, is expected to be very low.
So the first disadvantage bad oil in that it is destroyed by high temperature and in fact ceases to be oil. Tem high quality product that the manufacturers recommend.
The second disadvantage of low-grade oils is that, when they break down, they pollute the engine with their decay products (soot). As a result, the piston rings barely toss and turn in their grooves due to this soot, but should “play”, continuously monitoring, alas, no longer ideal, the cylinder profile. The result is the occurrence (coking) of the piston rings. And the first, as follows from practice, the oil scraper rings will stop moving. As a result, no skimmed oil, which will burn. A car with a gasoline engine will smoke with a bluish smoke. Diesel - no. Any remaining oil in a diesel engine will burn without any smoke. The most curious thing is that if compression is measured with this defect (the occurrence of oil scraper rings), the results will be excellent. The oil not removed from the cylinder walls will seal the gaps in the compression rings, and the pressure gauge will show pressure even better than that of a new engine.
And the third thing that the use of low-grade oils will lead to is the destruction of all "rubber bands". The rubber of all oil seals, seals, valve stem seals after overheating will lose its elasticity and turn into some kind of plastic. Naturally, after this, an oil leak will appear. And all these problems arise from the desire to win something by servicing your iron friend by buying cheaper oil for him.
When a car arrives with excessive engine oil consumption, three items are checked in turn: oil leakage, oil quality, and engine smoke.
Oil leak. We start the engine, it runs on the spot for about 30 minutes, then we turn it off. If there is at least one drop on a newspaper previously spread under the car, you need to fight the leak. If there are no drops, do not “load”, a wet sump is not good, but this is not the reason for the increased oil consumption. By the way, increased oil consumption is when, during the run from replacement to replacement, engine oil has to be topped up. That's what most car dealers think. Although instructions for domestic automotive technology, meaning trucks, they call an increased consumption of about 1 liter per 100 km. Only in this case the engine is sent for repair. For Japanese cars this, of course, is cool, but as a criterion for assessing oil overrun, this figure is suitable. Quite often, during the operation of the car, the bumps in the road are touched by the engine oil pan. Usually the pan remains intact, there are not even noticeable dents that could lead to deformation of the oil receiver and subsequently create serious problems. But after such a touch, the pallet moves slightly from its place and the sealant on which it was planted is undermined. After that, of course, there is a leak.
The second reason for the leak is bad frontal seals, which can be replaced without any problems. But when replacing them, when you take everything apart, you need to be very careful about the cover oil pump. A leak from under this cover very often outwardly looks like a leak in the windshield seals. For Toyota 4A engines, a dipstick shaft that is not tightly inserted into the engine block also causes oil to leak, which is quite difficult to detect. Painfully at the same time, the picture looks like a leak of oil seals or an oil pump. Therefore, it is easier to disconnect the shaft, pull it out, lubricate the sealing ring with sealant and insert it back. The oil leak, if it was there, will stop. Leak in rear seal crankshaft is a rather rare occurrence. Usually, the rear oil seal overrides a couple of sets of front ones. For replacement rear oil seal crankshaft, it is necessary to remove the gearbox. After that, put marks and remove the flywheel. After replacing the stuffing box, you need to carefully inspect the cover that holds this stuffing box, it is possible to leak through it. If so, you need to remove the cover, lubricate seat sealant and reinstall it. Also, until the flywheel is installed, it is necessary to inspect the oil plugs on the rear wall of the cylinder block and cylinder head. If necessary, unscrew these plugs and, after lubricating with sealant, install them back. There are cases when a leak from under the rear of the valve cover is taken for a leak in the rear oil seal. Therefore, before starting to remove the gearbox, you need to put your hand in and touch the back wall of the valve cover. If the hand is in oil, maybe it's easier to first eliminate the leak from under the valve cover and see in a week? How to remove the gearbox. However, if you like turning nuts, remove the box. Then you will see everything with your own eyes. And a number of small (in terms of the amount of work to eliminate) causes of engine oil leakage: sensor leak oil pressure(by the way, very dangerous; there are cases when a minor leak of this sensor unexpectedly ended with the dumping of all the oil on the asphalt in a few minutes), a leak from under the distributor (this one, without noticeable consequences for oil consumption, can flow forever), etc. Very rarely, but such cases occur, a leak is found from under the cylinder head. The head of the block in this case, as a rule, is warped due to overheating of the engine and, after removal, it must be given for grinding.
Separately, I would like to talk about crankcase ventilation. Very often, our turbine specialist comes to our box and complains that his clients have tortured him. They come in their turbocharged diesel engines and report that their turbine drives oil. Repair please. And they poke their fingers into the drips of oil on the turbine and air ducts. Although in fact the turbine (turbocharger) has nothing to do with it. When a seal (oil seal) leaks in this unit (turbo) for some reason, it will be a seal that works in the worst conditions. That is, of the two seals, the seal on the turbine side will flow first, and on the compressor side, where the temperature of all the glands is several hundred degrees lower, the seal will still hold. At least, if the shaft in the turbocharger has not burst. In other words, if the turbocharger is destined to drive oil, then it will do it in the exhaust pipe. And after warming up such a machine will smoke gray smoke with a characteristic smell of unburned oil. In some modern tanks, a smoke screen device works on the same principle: diesel fuel is fed into a hot exhaust manifold. And there is enough smoke for everyone. Both ours and the enemy. And oil leaks at the joints of the air duct are simply due to the fact that the compressor is forced to compress air with oil. Where does oil come from? Yes, from the ventilation system. During engine operation, some amount of exhaust gases will inevitably enter the crankcase. There, these gases will mix with oil mist and become known as crankcase gases. And then through the valve cover (most often) will be sucked into intake manifold. Or, if the engine is turbocharged, into the duct before the turbocharger. True, all the oil in these gases should “beat off” in the oil separator and drain back into the engine crankcase, but sometimes this, according to different reasons, not happening. For example, simply because there are too many crankcase gases. Because of the burned-out firing belts at the pistons. Then the oil does not have time to separate from the gases and mixes with the sucked air through the ventilation tube. Further, compressed air(with oil vapors) slightly inflates (after all, the turbine creates pressure) rubber hoses, and those, being not quite tightly crimped at the joints, begin to “sweat”. This is a problem with all older diesel engines. When another car comes in for repair with a stubborn desire to “repair” the turbine, we disconnect the ventilation for it and, using an additional rubber tube, bring it to plastic bottle, which is immediately fixed in the engine compartment. The hole in the duct, of course, is covered with something. After that, we wash off all the oil leaks on the air ducts and tell the client that he needs to drive 200 kilometers. And he himself will make sure that the air ducts have become dry, and oil has appeared in the bottle at the bottom. In this situation, it is necessary to check the ventilation system and, if it is in order, plan the repair of the piston group. True, you can still try to decoke the oil scraper rings with additives in fuel and engine oil, maybe this will help, otherwise, there are two ways. The first is to drive with a bottle, periodically pouring oil out of it into the engine. The second is the repair or replacement of the engine.
Now about what we do with the oil separation system, which is located in the valve cover. We are talking about diesel engines, since the ventilation system in gasoline engines, as a rule, does not cause problems. In general, all oil separators work in the same way. They carry out a sharp change in the direction of the flow of gases, as a result of which the oil settles on the walls. Along the walls, it flows into the “pan” of the oil separator and through a special hole into the engine (into the block head). This is where the design differences and problems begin. Most engines use following diagram. The oil flows down through the hole in the “sump” (in fact, it is a hole in the tin), and through the same hole more and more crankcase gases go, which carry new oil. In theory, the “beaten off” oil should drain along the edge and not interfere with the gases. But if there are a lot of gases? The engine is old and worn out. Then the oil flowing down the walls (already “beaten off”) is picked up by gases and fed back into the oil separator. As a result, with this design, “unbeaten” oil flies from the ventilation tube. What is the output? Make another hole in the tin? In general, it is possible, but who prevents the gases from going now not through a regular hole, but through a newly made hole? And in it again to pick up the "beaten off" oil? However, in this situation (with an increase in the through hole), the speed of the crankcase gases will be lower, and they will pick up the broken oil with less intensity. But in some designs there is a separate hole for “beaten off” oil, through which gases do not go, since this hole is closed by a valve with a plastic ball. When oil accumulates in the oil separator pan, the ball floats and the oil flows out. This design is used in some Isuzu models and, as practice shows, is not very good for our worn out cars. The problems are the same. Soot on the ball and too much crankcase gases. As a result, the engine again "drives" the oil through the ventilation. For some time now, Japanese designers have been using a water seal instead of a plastic ball. Then the oil flows not just through the hole in the oil separator pan, but through a tube that is lowered into the oil. To do this, a cup is fixed at the end of the tube, in which there is always oil. When this cup overflows from dripping drops of “beaten” oil, excess oil it just flows out into the head. Engines with this design for oil removal have practically no problems with excess engine oil in crankcase gases. At least that's how it has been so far. We also regularly make a similar design if there is a suspicion that too much engine oil “drives” through the ventilation. A lot or not, we define it as such. We remove the ventilation tube and cover its end with one layer of ordinary thin fabric (of those used for sheets). After that, we start the preheated engine and light a cigarette. If, after the cigarette is smoked, the fabric is not completely black, we consider that the oil separation system is working satisfactorily. If a piece of fabric turns black, and even more so if a drop forms on it, then ventilation definitely does not cope with its task. And we begin its repair by removing the valve cover and organizing a drain for broken oil. And so that crankcase gases do not go through this drain (hole), we make a water seal. Cigar cases are excellent for this, the aluminum material of which makes it easy to make any design.
Oil quality. It's easy to check. Take the valve cover off and have a look. If everything under it is black, with thick deposits of fuel oil on all parts, then oil consumption is largely due to its waste. Second option. If a week after the oil change, it turned black again (we are not talking about diesels, where the blackening of the engine oil still does not mean anything), then one of two things: either the engine is terribly dirty and the new oil successfully dissolves this dirt in itself, or new oil is intensively destroyed and, naturally, decreases, being heavily contaminated with the products of its waste. By the way, this is a very common cause of engine failure. The owner of a forced Japanese engine, showing his commercialism, buys the cheapest engine oil. Yes, it's imported and works great. For example, in the engine of a GAZ-21 car from a neighbor. But this engine does not heat up above 90 degrees in its entire life. While the temperature of Japanese engines almost constantly exceeds 110 degrees. This is where branded oil begins to break down. It's just that it was not created for modern forced Japanese engines.
Engine smoke. Let's talk about petrol engines first. The normal condition of any gasoline engine is that there is no smoke from the exhaust pipe. However, there is one caveat. The fact is that when gasoline is burned, water is formed, this is said even in chemistry lessons at school. Therefore, according to all the laws of physics and chemistry, steam must come out of the exhaust pipe. It goes if the temperature of the exhaust gases is not high. This happens in the morning, while the exhaust tract has not warmed up and in winter, when it is cold outside, and the tract is simply not able to warm up. But if the engine exhaust system warmed up, there will be no steam from the exhaust pipe, or rather it will not be visible. By the way, this is a note. If in the morning there is no steam from the exhaust pipe after starting the engine, then this indicates a malfunction of the engine, in particular that the engine is running at rich mixture. However, here it is necessary to make one clarification. The starting system for carburetor engines, as a rule, turns off after 3-5 seconds. During these seconds, until the vacuum servomotor is forced to open air damper, the engine may emit black smoke and this is not considered a fault. But if, after a few seconds after starting the engine, black smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, but there is no steam, then we can assume that the engine is faulty and it has a too rich fuel mixture. If the engine is working, there should be steam. We will not consider black smoke from the engine. At normal cars it should not be (abnormal, these are those in which, in order to increase power, in order to successfully participate in sports competitions, the so-called "chip tuning" was made, well, and faulty machines). And the appearance of black smoke seems to have nothing to do with oil consumption. And the gray (or blue) smoke is related. There are three main options for its appearance.
First option. The car with a warm engine stands still and works. There is no noticeable smoke from the exhaust pipe. But if, after about five minutes of running the engine at idle, you sharply press the gas pedal, a cloud of blue smoke will fly out of the exhaust pipe. If you immediately accelerate again - again a cloud. Accelerate a third time - the cloud of smoke will become smaller. Once again, even less. For the tenth time, when you sharply press the gas pedal, there will be almost no blue smoke. All this is a typical manifestation of such a nuisance as current valve stem seals. While the engine was running Idling, oil through defective sealing gums (valve caps) slowly flowed down the valve stem to the back side of the valve cap and remained there in the form of a film, the air flow rate at idle speed was not very high, so the oil had the opportunity to accumulate.
Rice. 1. With worn valve stem seals, engine oil flows down the intake valve stems and is drawn into the combustion chamber. Through the exhaust valves, the oil also tries to get into the exhaust manifold and burn out there, but due to the pressure in the exhaust manifold, this only happens when the guides are very worn. However, at idle speed, when the pressure in the exhaust manifold is pulsating, oil can leak even if the guide is not badly worn. While on intake valves By vacuum, the oil is literally drawn into the combustion chambers.
Until the airflow speed increases. You pressed on the gas, the air flow rate increased and all the oil accumulated earlier on the valve stem and the inner surface of the plate of the same valve was immediately sucked into the cylinders. New oil will, of course, run in again, but in small quantities, it will not lead to a noticeable change in the color of the exhaust gases. This oil has the ability to accumulate only at low intake air velocities, i.e. at idle, or when the engine is stopped and the liquid oil (engine is hot) that remains on the valve stem does not completely drain down.
Read also: All about oil consumption and loss
It should be noted that often the cause of engine oil getting into the intake (and exhaust) manifold is not only bad valve stem seals, but also worn valve guides. In this case, replacing the valve stem seals may not give a noticeable reduction in oil consumption (or give a short-term positive effect). In this case, it is necessary to remove the block head and replace the guide bushings, with all related operations. We had cases when we changed the caps and the blue smoke disappeared. But after 4-6 months, he appeared again. Simply because new caps (24 pieces) were bought for 300 rubles for the entire set. While branded caps cost around $ 5 apiece. In addition, many cars have different caps for intake and exhaust valves. Therefore, the sale of the entire set of new caps in one package raises serious doubts about their quality. Externally, the valve stem seals for the intake and exhaust valves are the same, but due to different composition tires have a slightly different color and different catalog numbers. Also, an illiterate replacement of caps will not give a positive result. For example, if the master puts on caps with a hammer, he can very easily sink the cap further than normal and break it.
Second option. There seems to be no blue (gray-gray, depending on the degree of engine warm-up and the degree of color blindness of the observer) smoke from the exhaust pipe - neither when idling, nor when driving, if you look through the rear-view mirror. But remember how you are driving uphill, where almost all drivers are pressing on the gas pedal. There is no smoke at all behind one car in front, and blue smoke curls from the exhaust pipe of another. Moreover, the driver sitting in that car in the rear-view mirror does not see this smoke: there is too little of it. But you, who are following, can see this smoke. And he says that the car in front has problems with piston group, as a result of which there is an increased consumption of engine oil. The same can be true for your car.
Problems with the piston group may be as follows.
1. Wear of piston rings. The reason is usually to save on air filters and engine oil. "Treated" by replacing filters and oil.
2. Wear of the groove for the piston rings. The groove has become too wide and because of this, a "pumping effect" occurs when the engine is running. "Treated" by replacing the pistons. But, according to "poverty", options are possible. See point 6.
3. The occurrence of oil scraper rings. It is “treated” either with additives in fuel (or in oil) or mechanical cleaning during disassembly.
4. Wrong position of compression rings. When the piston moves, the ring is pressed against the wall of its groove and constantly “plays”, tracking the profile of the cylinder. If there is carbon deposits on this wall, then the ring, pressing against it, will barely move in its groove, the thickness of the carbon deposit is not uniform and, therefore, the ring will warp and seal the “piston-cylinder” gap incorrectly. It is "treated" by adding an additive to fuel or engine oil. Or, if you want to disassemble the engine, mechanical removal soot.
5. Cylinder wear. The wear process is always uneven and begins with the first start of the engine. Piston rings, "playing" in their grooves, when the piston moves, constantly monitor the profile of the cylinder and everything is more or less decent. But in the end, the wear of the cylinder profile becomes so great that the rings are no longer able to do their job (seal the piston-cylinder gap). If the operation of the rings is also hindered by carbon deposits or too thick engine oil, this occurs with much less wear on the cylinder. Engine compression is reduced. "Treatment" by boring the cylinder to the repair size or sleeve. But there is a serious problem here. Both of these operations (both boring and sleeve) involve the use of abrasive tools, for example, for honing. The use of an abrasive tool, in turn, leads to the fact that part of the abrasive particles is embedded in the material being processed. And it is very difficult to remove these particles. In large enterprises, ultrasonic washing is used for this, but what should auto repair shops do? Wash as best they can. Accordingly, the engine resource after such a repair is unlikely to exceed 100 thousand km. True, owners of cars with engines that have liners from birth, such as the Mitsubishi 4D-56, Mazda RF, etc., have an ingenious way out. The worn sleeve is pressed out, turned over and pressed again. In practice (not from a good life, of course), it has been verified that even if a “step” of 1 mm has formed during the wear of the cylinder (sleeve), the sleeve can still be used “upside down”. With such wear, in order to remove the pistons, it is necessary to “smooth out” the step with a drill. Otherwise, the compression rings, resting against the shoulder, will not allow the piston to be knocked out. As a result, a pit forms on the surface of the sleeve, but, nevertheless, just below the pit, traces of honing are already visible, a symbol of the absence of wear. Therefore, such an engine, with inverted sleeves, works quite well - there is no oil consumption. We know the old Delica, which has already covered 130 thousand km with inverted sleeves without noticeable signs of wear of the piston group.
6. Wear and destruction of pistons. "Cure" by replacement. Although you can melt. The result will be “not very”, it strongly depends on the qualification of the welder, but still. At one time, when there were almost no spare parts for Japanese engines, we welded up the destroyed bridges between the grooves for the piston rings. But after that it was necessary to carry out heat treatment and machining of the entire piston, so that its dimensions correspond to decency. The jumpers burst with very high wear of the grooves and with constant impacts of the rings against the walls, which leads to a significant decrease in compression and increased consumption engine oil. This breakdown is more likely if too early ignition and when using low octane fuel. Jumpers almost do not burst on old Nissan engines (they are just very wide) and on 2-liter in-line "sixes" of all companies. There, the piston diameter is small and the detonation wave, which hits the rings (and they already break the jumpers), does not have time to accelerate much. Melted firing belts on pistons (mainly for diesel engines due to poor fuel mixture on high speed engine) can also be welded on, but in this case there are usually scuffs on the skirts. Therefore, it is more reliable to find other pistons. Well, or start making new ones. On this subject in the book by A.E. Khruleva "Repair of engines of foreign cars" of the publishing house "Behind the wheel" is described in some detail and convincingly.
So, if from the exhaust pipe blue (or bluish) smoke, and than more speed car, the more this smoke, it is necessary to fill in the fuel tank or, which, in our opinion, is more harmful, in engine oil, an additive that eliminates the occurrence of rings. It won’t help - you can remember the “old-fashioned” way: turn out the candles and pour full cylinders acetone. To prevent this acetone from pouring straight down, dilute it with kerosene and engine oil. A ratio of 1:1:1 is usually recommended. After that, the very next day, it is necessary to drain all the fluid from the engine sump and fill it with fresh oil. Sometimes these activities help. If this does not give positive effect- disassemble the engine. By the way, measuring the compression at the occurrence of the rings does not give anything. The fact is that the oil scraper rings are the first to lose their mobility and, naturally, this leads to the fact that unremoved oil remains on the cylinder walls. And when there is oil on the walls of the cylinder, the compression will be excellent. Even with heavily worn compression rings and pistons.
In fact, the old masters have a rule: if the oil consumption is more on the highway than in the city, then the piston is to blame. If there is a greater oil consumption in the city, then the valve stem seals are most likely to blame.
Third option. There is a lot of smoke from the exhaust pipe, or there is no pattern under which operating modes it is more, and under which it is less. We will not consider cases where a large amount of smoke from the exhaust pipe is associated with the flow of coolant into the cylinders (the smoke is whiter and has a sweetish smell), we will not consider here, since this is related to the cooling system and is a separate topic. A large amount of blue (gray) smoke from the exhaust pipe can be if the turbine is broken (for turbocharged engines), the crankcase ventilation system is faulty, the intake manifold geometry change system and late fuel injection (for diesel engines) are faulty. Let's consider these cases in more detail.
The turbine broke. If an oil seal (oil seal) is destroyed in a turbocharger, then the oil that is supplied to this turbocharger under pressure to lubricate the shaft will begin to flow into the exhaust pipe and, naturally, burn there. But only after the exhaust pipe heats up. On this sign - the machine begins to smoke intensively after warming up - and they build the assumption that the turbine seal is faulty. Usually in these cases, the flow of oil into the exhaust pipe is so abundant that it oozes along the joints (flanges) of the exhaust tract and even drips from the muffler.
Faulty ventilation system. When using low-quality grades of engine oil in high-powered engines, which are mostly Japanese engines, this low-grade oil quickly breaks down. The internal surfaces of the engine, in particular the valve cover, are covered with oil decomposition products, that is, soot. When there is a lot of this soot, it clogs the oil separator, and after that the crankcase gases are no longer cleaned of oil. Let's take a case from our practice as an example. Car "Suzuki Escudo" with a six-cylinder V-engine H20A. The car could smoke blue smoke with a smell burnt oil, and could not smoke. And there was no regularity or pattern. It is standing, idling, and there is almost no smoke from the exhaust pipe. It takes several minutes (even tens of minutes) and suddenly smoke comes out of the chimney. Two - three minutes, and again everything is decent. There is no smoke.
Removed the intake manifold, and it is full of oil. By oil streaks on the inner walls, we traced where the oil came from - from the ventilation hole. We remove the valve cover, and there everything is in black oil "stalactites". After that, the valve cover was washed from the outside and drilled out (it is riveted) fastening the oil separator cover. We remove the cover - everything inside is clogged with asphalt. Including oil drain holes. Next, we go to the hardware store and buy a few dozen screws, the shortest ones. After that, in place of the rivets, we drill holes for these screws and, as expected, fasten the cover onto the sealant. The aluminum material of the valve cover allows the screw to be screwed in like a self-tapping screw, i.e. without thread cutting. It is enough just to make a hole for the self-tapping screw a few "tens" less. If with this malfunction (completely inoperative oil separator) there was a simpler engine, for example, the 3S series, then it would not be possible to calculate the malfunction so easily. And the “abstruse” intake manifold of the “Eskudovsky” V-shaped model allowed the oil to accumulate in various cavities and then flow into the cylinders in one gulp. After such "volley" discharges of engine oil, there was a sharp increase in smoke from the exhaust pipe. If a diesel engine came with such a problem, then, of course, there would be no smoke. After all, engine oil, once in the cylinders, burns out, as you know, no worse diesel fuel. And only by oil leaks at the junctions of the intake manifold and air ducts one could suspect that not everything is in order with the ventilation system. If all the joints are sealed ... But this is rarely the case, especially if the engine is equipped with a turbocharger. The fact is that in the presence of a turbocharger, the pressure in the intake manifold changes periodically. All rubber spacers, when the boost is “turned on”, are slightly inflated and “fidget”, which is why the seal is broken. As long as the “gum” is “fresh”, there are no leaks. But as soon as they “zadubet” a little, oil streaks appear.
Changing the geometry of the intake manifold. For some engines, the drive of the flaps that block the air channels in the intake manifold is made inside the engine. For example, in the "1S" series engines, this drive is located under valve cover. Moreover, even the vacuum servomotor communicates with the space under the valve cover. And there, of course, oil mist. If the diaphragm of the servo motor breaks, then every time it is triggered, oil from the engine, together with crankcase gases, will flow through the vacuum control tubes into the intake manifold. The engine will emit blue smoke. If the damper shafts "break" in their guides, engine oil will also flow into the intake manifold. And the engine will again smoke and “eat” oil. When we encounter such a problem, we turn off the servo motor and disconnect the actuating damper actuators. After that, the dampers become “downwind”, there is no geometry control system, and the engine does not “eat” oil. The damper shafts stop rotating back and forth, and the flow of oil along them, and, consequently, the flow rate, is reduced. Apparently, this is simply due to the fact that the gaps between the axles and the block head housing are clogged with soot and the oil flow decreases. The decrease in power after such a “modernization” is not even noticed by normal drivers. Moreover, this reduction occurs in a narrow range of engine speeds.
Kornienko Sergey Vladimirovich
Vladivostok
