Might be useful to someone. Auto Toyota Carina II (European), 4A-FE LB, 1.6L, manual. Ordered a long life sensor lean mixture (sensor, lean mixture), code 21, 89463-29035 (internal factory marking 89463-20050 NG 192500-0200). For the same one they asked for ~17K rubles. + wait up to 2 months until they bring it. After a long search and reading information on the internet, the sensor 89463-29045 was chosen, which was delivered in 1.5 weeks + 8K p. The connector, of course, did not fit, I had to cut it off from the old one. I didn’t solder the wires, but twisted and insulated them with a heat-shrink tube (I think that’s what it’s called). Mechanically everything came up, nothing had to be adjusted anywhere. I put a new gasket (it was included), installed the sensor, made a "reset" from EFI. Code 21 did not appear. Subjectively, the engine began to work somehow differently, softer, especially when the revolutions were over 2-3 thousand. It has not yet been possible to measure the flow rate, because everything is in the stage of behavior testing, but it is clear that the city is less than 10 liters.
background. Over the past winter, the warm-up revolutions have grown to about 3 thousand, the consumption in the city is somewhere around 12-15 liters. Spring drove the car to the local "Kulibin". He was tinkering with it for about half a day, after which the heating steels were around 1600 rpm, the heating itself takes from 5 to 15 minutes (if you stand), depending on the minus outside. After warming up, the speed drops to the prescribed 700-800 rpm. and a little "float" (visually on the tachometer plus or minus 30 rpm), while driving the car does not blunt and, in general, behaves normally. Kulibin himself did not admit what he was doing (apparently this is his know-how), hinted that he had cleaned some thing that is located in the coolant line in the throttle area, warned that my lambda was inoperative. I rushed to look for what is on my engine on existential and how much. As a result, it turned out that my engine is a European version of Lean Burn with one lean mixture sensor and no oxygen sensor.
By the way, before going to the mechanic, I cleaned the return valve and the BDZ using a carb cleaner. There was dirt! After a trip to the mechanic and the completion of the procedure for buying a new sensor, the oil was changed with a filter and coolant. Before installing a new sensor, the following was noticed: the morning plant is normal, the trip to work is also, if there were day trips - there was a drop in revolutions to 400-500 after cranking (then the revolutions went to warm-up for 1 minute) and at traffic lights, especially if there is a big "plus" on the street. The next day - the same situation. Apparently, it is necessary to check the adjustment of the BDZ and candles.
In general, for the entire period of operation (since 1998) of this car, I didn’t really get under the hood, I changed consumables at the right time and changed the cylinder head gasket a couple of times: the first time was the legacy of the previous owner (he had something leaking, which - something changed or not - it’s not clear) to the Chinese “thick” (swamp green), they warned that it didn’t pass for a long time, so it is, for about 7000 km. there was a "breakdown" of the gasket between the 2nd and 3rd cylinders about 1 cm wide, the result is the second replacement with the original (black, "thin"), it has been running for the 3rd year, it seems without problems. Both times - with polishing of the head.
Now I'm struggling with "dimming" in the head light, like the reflectors are dirty.
Here is such an experience. Good luck to everyone and a speedy and high-quality victory over the ailments of steel horses.