To increase traction, various devices are used and technical innovations. The complexity of the selected option directly affects the price. Agree, you always want to get good quality equipment at the lowest cost.
The most profitable solution is to make a deflector on the chimney with your own hands. The design is extremely simple, and the effectiveness of its use is difficult to overestimate.
We will tell you how the device works and explain how it works. We will also present step by step instructions for assembling and installing a simple deflector. We supplemented the information provided with visual photographs and video clips demonstrating the nuances of the construction and installation of the ventilation hood.
The device used to enhance traction is used everywhere. The end of the chimney, as a rule, is decorated with a cap of a certain shape. Moreover, not just a cap to protect against birds, butterflies, leaves and other representatives of flora and fauna.
This is a product that has a certain structure and acts as a traction booster, which has a positive effect on fuel consumption.
The need to use a deflector
Deflectors offered on the building materials market have different shape, size. The material from which they are made is also different. It can be plastic, galvanized steel, stainless steel and other alloys. The scope of the device is also very wide.
Varieties of draft amplifiers for installation on chimneys for private and collective use differ in appearance, material of manufacture and cost of the product.
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Ventilation element assembly procedure
It will be much cheaper to assemble a deflector from improvised materials. Especially if there is a desire to build something useful with your own hands. The whole process of manufacturing the device will take 2-3 hours - the time depends on the dexterity and skills of the assembler.
The process of manufacturing a reflector that enhances traction with your own hands consists of the following steps:
- create a drawing;
- make blanks;
- assemble the device;
- install and fix it on the chimney.
The first step in creating a drawing is best done on paper. To do this, it is important to correctly calculate the diameter of the inlet pipe and the diameter of the cap. And also, the height of the deflector itself.
There are special tables that show diffuser sizes for the most popular pipe diameters. If the chimney is non-standard, then the calculations will have to be done independently (+)
In order not to be mistaken, you can use generally accepted formulas for your calculations.
The main role in the calculations is played by the inner diameter of the chimney pipe:
- height\u003d 1.6-1.7 * diameter;
- diffuser width\u003d 1.2-1.3 * diameter;
- cap width\u003d 1.7-1.9 * diameter.
When there is a formula, it remains to correctly measure the inner diameter of the pipe at the chimney and substitute the resulting value. Knowing the dimensions, you can start drawing the contours of the blanks on paper.
It is best to create a prototype of the finished paper product after creating the drawing. This will make possible errors and shortcomings clearer. If there are none, then you can proceed to the second stage - the creation of real metal blanks.
In the process of creating prototypes for the details of the future deflector, it is best to use paper. If something fails, you can always correct your mistake
As a material, you can use a sheet of galvanized or stainless steel with a thickness of 0.5-1 mm. Sometimes you can find the opinion that it is best to use copper for the deflector.
This statement has the right to life if there is an unnecessary sheet of copper in the garage or workshop. Otherwise, such an expensive purchase will not justify itself. And the service life of stainless steel cannot be called short to neglect this material.
When the blanks are cut with scissors for metal from the prepared sheet, you can proceed to the assembly stage of the product. To do this, you can use a riveter and a drill or welding. When working with welding, you need to be extremely careful so as not to accidentally burn through the area of \u200b\u200bthe future deflector.
If you plan to use rivets, then it is convenient to make allowances for connecting parts to each other on a rolling machine. If this is not the case, then a hammer will do just fine. Having made allowances, it is necessary to smoothly connect the parts together, make holes with a drill and put rivets.
The legs for attaching the cap to the base of the deflector are mounted at an equal distance from each other
The cap is to be fixed to the base with legs, which are also drawn and cut out of a stainless steel / galvanized sheet.
All parts of the product are interconnected with rivets - this is the fastest and most safe way mounts. Skills are required to work with welding and such a product will not look so attractive
When the 3rd stage is over, and the homemade product is ready, you can proceed to the last and most crucial moment - installation on the chimney.
Roof deflector installation
The last step in the manufacture of the deflector on the chimney pipe is to install it in its permanent location - on the chimney. You can put it yourself as a home-made device, and a purchased design. There is no difference - you still have to climb onto the roof.
In order to avoid problems with installation, even a purchased model that comes unassembled must be assembled at the bottom, securely fixing all fasteners. Only then can you take essential tool and head towards the chimney.
Depending on the type of pipe that plays the role of a chimney, the mounting options will differ. Sometimes it is enough to use a few screws or put an additional clamp
When installing the deflector on the chimney pipe, carefully drill holes for fastening. Then it remains to securely fasten the screws or rivets and check if the installed device does not tilt in different directions.
If it dangles, then you can additionally put a clamp. This option is suitable if the chimney is not lined with bricks.
For brickwork with a square or rectangular section of the chimney, you will have to use special adapters. When the work is completed, you can test the self-installed deflector in action by flooding the stove / turning on the heating boiler.
Another important point- spark arrester. Whether it is needed or not - look at a particular house. It can be made of stainless steel sheet or metal mesh.
If the roof covering is soft and can easily ignite, then about additional protection from sparks flying out of the chimney during the operation of the heating boiler, it is important to take care of it in time
Errors and problems with the device
With a deflector, as with all devices, troubles can arise. One, the largest and quite preventable - wrong job. This happens if the device was selected the wrong size. It can simply fall into the chimney pipe, blocking the way for the exit of combustion products.
To avoid this situation, you need to pay attention that the diameter of the deflector pipe must be equal to the diameter of the inner pipe of the chimney.
If the chimney is brick, and the installed device has a circular cross section, then you cannot do without the appropriate adapters.
If the deflector pipe is slightly smaller than the diameter of the chimney pipe, then a wire can be used as a sealant, which is wound on the base, thus increasing the outer diameter
The second mistake when installing the deflector is the choice of a rotating model for areas with cold and snowy winters. Such a decision is fraught with icing of the device, and after a few days it will be covered with snow and will not only stop rotating, but will also significantly interfere with normal operation chimney.
To clear everything, removing the snow and ice, you have to climb onto the roof, and this is not the most pleasant thing to do on a cold and snowy day.
The third trouble is the inefficiency of the deflector.
The problem may occur if the installation location or model is incorrectly selected:
- the case of the device is poorly blown by winds of various directions;
- in areas with gusty winds, an H-shaped deflector will be more effective;
- it is necessary to avoid installing the device in the zone of an aerodynamic shadow from trees and higher structures located nearby;
- the appliance must be located above the roof ridge and above other structures, if any, near the chimney.
If the deflector turned out to be ineffective, then it is necessary to look for a chimney.
The fourth problem is the breakdown of rotating models. The fact is that the mechanisms that provide rotation require care. More precisely, one must not forget to periodically maintain the individual parts of the deflector, lubricate the bearings in time.
If the fixture was made by hand, and the material used for this turned out to be cheap and of poor quality, then everything can rust very quickly. In this case, you will soon have to replace with a new deflector.
In order to notice this kind of problem in time, you need to periodically carry out visual inspection roof, chimney and installed weather vane
Another problem is when a simple cap is installed instead of a deflector. It can freeze and be covered with snow. This will have to be removed. It is dangerous if such a situation occurs at night and all combustion products remain in the house. This is fraught with a fatal outcome for all household members.
Therefore, you need to immediately install a deflector and not experiment with various visors-caps. If there is no desire to build an amplifier from improvised materials, you can always buy the model you like and install it on the chimney yourself.
It is necessary to take care of the normal operation of the boiler and the effective removal of combustion products at the heating design stage. Helpful information for the construction of the chimney is presented in.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
How a deflector capable of extinguishing sparks is arranged is described in the video clip:
Step-by-step manufacturing of the TsAGI deflector on your own without special equipment is shown in the video:
A well-designed ventilation system of the room is the key to a healthy microclimate. One of the priority conditions for natural air circulation is the presence of traction. To normalize the pressure, a ventilation deflector is often used - the device enhances the suction from the ventilation duct due to wind pressure.
Despite the simplicity of design and affordability, such a cap significantly increases traction. The only difficulty is the choice the best option among the variety of proposals.
We will help you sort out this issue. The article presents detailed overview devices and principles of operation of various deflectors, practical recommendations are given for the selection and installation of caps.
To make it easier for you to decide on the model and understand the sequence of installing the air “stimulator”, we have prepared a thematic photo and video selection.
The deflector solves two main tasks:
- Protects the mine from clogging with debris and birds.
- Minimizes the negative impact of precipitation on ventilation equipment.
- It activates and enhances traction, generating and redirecting wind flows - the efficiency of the ventilation system increases by 15-20%. The deflector reduces the likelihood of occurrence.
The umbrella structure is used to increase draft and in the chimney. In addition, it additionally plays the role of a spark arrester.
The ventilation hood loses its effectiveness when the wind blows from below - the air flow hits the hood and prevents the hood from working. The solution to the problem is the installation of a deflector with two cones
Diagram of the device and the principle of operation of the deflector
To get an accurate idea of \u200b\u200bwhat a deflector is and how it functions, we will analyze typical scheme his devices.
The main parts of the ventilation nozzle:
- Diffuser- base in the form of a truncated cone. The lower part of the cylindrical flask is mounted on the top of the ventilation duct leading through the roof. It is in the diffuser that the deceleration occurs air flow and pressure increase.
- Umbrella– the upper protective cap attached to the diffuser with racks. The element prevents debris from entering the ventilation duct.
- Frame- ring or shell. The visible part of the deflector connected to the diffuser by two or three brackets. The body plane cuts through the air flow and creates an area of low pressure inside the cylinder.
In some modifications, a mesh is installed to trap small debris. The filter insert slightly weakens the draft.
The design of the deflector with an inlet pipe: 1 - head, 2 - diffuser, 3 - ring, 4 - brackets, legs, 5 - cap, 6 - cone shield, d - diameter
The action of the ventilation nozzle is based on the Bernoulli effect - the relationship between the pressure and the speed of the air flow in the channel. When accelerating, provoked by the narrowing of the duct, the pressure in the system drops, forming a vacuum in the pipeline.
Principle of operation:
- The deflector catches the wind.
- Air masses rush into the diffuser, branch out and provoke a decrease in pressure at the top of the ventilation duct.
- The exhaust air from the room rushes into the discharged void.
At right choice and installing a deflector at the end of the exhaust duct, the pressure difference increases, respectively, the intensity of air exchange increases.
Classification of wind nozzles
Despite the same purpose, exhaust hoods differ from each other.
When determining the optimal device model, it is necessary to evaluate:
- material of manufacture;
- principle of operation;
- structural features.
Production material. The production uses aluminum, stainless steel, galvanization, copper, plastic and ceramics.
Steel and aluminum products are considered the best solution in terms of cost/quality balance. Copper deflectors are rarely used due to their high cost.
Plastic models differ from their counterparts in a lower price, a variety of colors and shapes. Disadvantages of polymers: susceptibility to high temperatures and limited service life
A symbiosis of strength and decorativeness - combined caps made of metal, covered with plastic.
Principle of operation. Based functional features ventilation devices divided into 4 groups.
Types of deflectors:
- static nozzles;
- rotary deflectors;
- static installations with an ejector fan;
- swivel models.
The first group includes models of the traditional type. Static deflectors are characterized by simple design and the ability to self assembly. The dampers are mounted on the exhaust shafts of residential and industrial aeration ducts.
The second group (rotary deflectors) are equipped with a system of rotating blades. complex mechanism consists of an active head and a static base.
Gusts of wind cause the paddle drum to rotate. During operation, a vacuum is created at the mouth of the mine, preventing the appearance of reverse thrust
Static exhaust deflector with ejector fan – modern technology. A fixed cap is installed at the end of the ventilation duct, and a low-pressure axial fan is mounted directly under it inside the shaft.
The device of the static-rotary model: 1 - static deflector, 2 - fan, 3 - pressure sensor, 4 - heat-insulated flask, 5 - noise-absorbing ventilation duct, 6 - drainage, 7 - false ceiling
Under normal external conditions the system functions like a traditional static deflector. As the wind and thermal pressure decrease, the sensor is triggered - the axial fan turns on and the thrust returns to normal.
An interesting development that deserves attention is an ejection-type deflector with a swivel body. The rotating cap is installed above the shaft.
The model consists of a horizontal and a vertical pipe, which are interconnected by a hinged mechanism. On top of the deflector there is a partition - a weather vane.
The horizontal pipe turns in the direction of the wind. Streams rush into inner part and create a vacuum - the thrust at the mouth of the mine increases
Design features. Models with the same principle of inducing natural ventilation have some differences in the device.
Deflectors are open or closed, square or round, with one cap or several cone umbrellas. The characteristics of the most popular and effective modifications are described below.
Overview of popular models
The choice of "wind nozzle" is based on the efficiency, cost of the deflector and climatic conditions terrain. Some models are available for self-assembly and installation
View #1 - classic Grigorovich hat
The most common option used in ventilation and smoke removal systems. Due to its simplicity and accessibility, the Grigorovich deflector holds a leading position among analogues.
The device is represented by a pair of umbrellas connected into a single "plate".
The cap is installed on pipelines of circular cross section or mounted through an adapter plate on rectangular and square shafts.
Basic equipment: 1 - diffuser in the form of a narrowed cone, 2 - protective umbrella, 3 - return cap. Fastening struts unite the elements of the nozzle
Thanks to the design, a double ejection of air is carried out - in the direction of the expanded part of the diffuser and in the direction of the return hood.
The flow velocity under the lower cone increases due to the narrowing of the channel section, as a result, the pressure difference increases.
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View # 2 - TsAGI universal nozzle
The ventilation hood, designed by the Aerohydrodynamic Institute, enhances thrust due to wind pressure and pressure differences at different altitudes.
The nozzle is supplemented with a cylindrical screen, inside of which a prototype of a traditional deflector is placed.
The outer shell prevents the natural ventilation from tipping over, even in large ducts. The permissible diameter of the exhaust shaft is 100-1250 mm. Designations in the figure: a - top view, b - side view, D - diameter, H - fixture height
Distinctive features:
- permissible shroud, rack, flange and nipple connection with the air duct, depending on the shape of the mouth of the mine;
- the possibility of transporting air, chemically non-aggressive environment (steel models can withstand temperatures up to +800 ° C);
- in winter, ice can form on the inner walls of the cylinder, which can block the flow area.
The deflector is susceptible to wind currents - in calm weather it creates traction resistance.
View #3 - Astato static-dynamic cap
Stato-mechanical deflector - the development of a French company Astato. The device enhances the draft of the exhaust flow of the natural ventilation system due to the wind and the fan.
The nozzle is mounted on houses of any number of storeys, reconstructed and new buildings.
In passive mode, the level of vacuum created by Astato is equal to the sum of wind and gravity pressure. This value corresponds to the operation of a static deflector
After turning on the electric motor, the aerodynamics of the ventilation duct is preserved, the degree of vacuum is the total value of the fan head and pressure.
Deflector characteristics:
- Installation methods. Nipple connection for round ventilation ducts, through an adapter - for a group of air ducts or rectangular shafts.
- Control modes. Manual regulation and automatic - by means of a pressure sensor, a time relay are acceptable.
- Production material– aluminium.
- The lineup. The Astato deflector is represented by six positions, the nominal diameter is 16-50 cm.
Series modifications DYN-Astato equipped with a two-speed fan, the cost of products is 1300-4000 USD. depending on the size of the deflector.
View #4 - DS series deflector
Static packing DS open type looks like an Astato deflector. But, unlike the French cap, the models of the DS series do not have moving parts. The cap contains three conical disks.
The umbrellas of this type of deflector are truncated and located opposite each other, forming a channel similar to the Venturi nozzle. Diameter central hole the lower disk corresponds to the pipe section. Brackets hold the mesh
The highest speed of the wind vortex is observed in the truncated channel of the cap - above the ventilation pipe. The pressure difference inside the deflector and remotely from it causes additional vacuum, which increases traction.
Features of the DS series model:
- the deflector is compatible with forced means of inducing air exchange -;
- the wind speed of 5-10 m/s increases the thrust by 10-40 Pa - the data is relevant at a relative humidity of 50°, an air temperature of +25°C and a wind flow deviation of up to 30° from the horizontal plane.
Deflectors are produced in 13 standard sizes. Designation of ventilation hoods: DS-***, Where *** – inner diameter in mm. The minimum dimensions are model DS-100, the maximum - DS-900.
View #5 - rotary turbine or turbo deflector
The dynamic deflector consists of a fixed base and a rotating turbine head.
The elements of the spherical cap are made of lightweight, thin metal, which allows the drum with blades to start working with a slight wind - from 0.5 m / s.
The head rotates in one direction of the wind vector. There is a “partial vacuum” under the hood - the air at the top of the ventilation duct is rarefied, the probability of the ventilation tipping over is minimized (+)
Advantages of the turbo deflector:
- efficiency work is 2-4 times higher than the performance of static models;
- room protection from overheating in summer and reducing the cost of air conditioning in the heat;
- aesthetic appearance– the head of the deflector is made in the form of an elegant spherical cap;
- prevention of condensation inside the roof by lowering the temperature in hot weather;
- economy of work– the active deflector operates without electricity.
The turbo deflector draws excess heat, moisture, dust, vapors and harmful gases from the building and the under-roof space, thereby increasing the service life structural elements Houses.
The disadvantage of an active deflector is zero performance in calm weather.
The labeling of Aerotek products is presented as TV-160, etc. Digital index denotes the diameter of the section of the fixed base of the cap
Dynamic nozzles are available. The products of the companies are in demand: Aerotek(Russia), Turbovent(Ukraine), Rotovent(Poland) and Turbomax(Belarus).
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View #6 - hood type rotary wind vane
Swivel cap type "hood" or "net" - a semicircular rotating trap air flow, mounted on the stem.
Its curved visors are attached to a bearing assembly. A weather vane is located at the top of the hull, allowing the structure to follow the direction of the wind.
Device scheme: 1 - working body, 2 - deflector nozzles, 3 - rotary rod, 4 - bearings, 5 - sealed cup, 6 - mounting ring, 7 - weather vane
The principle of operation of the ventilation "hood":
- Under the pressure of the wind, the weather vane turns, located along the line of the air flow.
- Jets of air pass through the space between the curved visors.
- The flows change vector and rush upwards.
- In this zone, according to the postulates of aerodynamics, the speed of air movement increases, and the pressure drops - a deep rarefaction is formed.
- The draft from the ventilation shaft increases, providing additional suction of exhaust air.
A weather vane-deflector is more difficult to make on your own than static models. The nozzle is operable at wind load up to 0.8 kPa (no more than 800 kgf/sq.m).
View #7 - H-type module
The H-shaped deflector is mainly installed on. Its purpose is to increase draft in the ventilation and chimney.
The wind enters the vertical bridges of the module and sucks out the exhaust air through the horizontal channels of the deflector, thereby increasing the draft in the pipeline
The design does not require the use of a canopy, since the top of the duct is protected by a horizontal element.
The main advantage of the H-shaped hood is its ability to work with strong gusts of wind. For work, the deflector is able to use the force of wind currents directed from the bottom up.
The nuances of mounting wind caps
When installing the deflector, you should be guided by the norms of SNiP.
The focus is on the height of the ventilation pipe and hood:
- from 500 mm above the parapet / ridge of the roof, if the air duct is 1.5 m or less from the top of the roof;
- flush with the ridge or higher if the distance from the ventilation duct to the parapet is 1.5-3 m;
- not lower than the deviation line drawn at an angle of 10 ° from the ridge down, provided that the distance of the pipe is more than 3 m.
On a flat roof, the deflector is installed at a height of 50 cm and above.
When placing the ventilation shaft next to the chimney, the same height of the air ducts must be observed. If these requirements are neglected, then stove smoke can enter the room
Additional installation details:
- installation in the area of the aerodynamic shadow of neighboring buildings is unacceptable;
- the deflector is placed in the free airflow zone, it is optimal if the cap is the highest part of the roof.
Installation of a nozzle of round section on a square air duct is carried out through a transitional branch pipe.
The requirements and method for installing the deflector on the boiler chimney are described in.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Comparison of the characteristics of a rotary turbine and the TsAGI model:
The principle of operation of the rotary weather vane-deflector:
Technology for installing a turbo deflector on a flat roof:
Such a simple device as a deflector can solve a common problem of natural ventilation - insufficient exhaust draft.
In addition to increasing the efficiency of air circulation, the cap performs a protective role, preventing clogging of the ventilation duct with debris.
Do you have experience in installing and operating a ventilation deflector? Or have questions about the topic? Please share your opinion and leave comments. Block for feedback located below.
The concept of "deflector" is probably known to many car owners. Deflectors on the hood, on the windows have become a popular part for car tuning. Fewer people know about another variety of these devices used in construction - "ventilation" deflectors. What is a deflector in the understanding of builders?
The deflector for ventilation is an aerodynamic device fixed to the head of the exhaust pipe (channel). Installing a deflector increases the draft of smoke and ventilation ducts and increases the overall efficiency of the smoke exhaust or ventilation system.
The device works on the principle of the Bernoulli effect - a Swiss physicist who discovered the relationship between the flow rate of a liquid or gas and the pressure in the channel. In the narrowing of the channel, an increase in the flow rate of liquid or gas occurs, causing a decrease in pressure in this section of the pipeline (duct).
Note: The ventilation deflector "catches" the wind passing through a narrow channel - a diffuser. This provokes a pressure drop at the top of the ventilation duct or chimney (at the location of the deflector). The vacuum under the diffuser is filled with air rising through the ventilation or smoke exhaust duct.
High-quality deflectors, which are installed according to all the rules, regulate the air flow in the diffuser and the direction of the discharge of gases supplied by the exhaust pipe. Well designed and correct installed deflector ventilation increases the efficiency of the exhaust duct by 20%. This allows you to level the lack of height of the exhaust pipe or the insufficient cross-section of the ventilation duct.
Varieties
The construction market offers many varieties of deflectors. They differ in the material of manufacture, type of construction, purpose and appearance. It is worth noting that there are not only ventilation deflectors. The general public is best known for deflectors used in the aircraft and automotive industries. Tuning enthusiasts use car deflectors, the installation of which changes the air flow around the car body.
First of all, this is a hood deflector, deflectors (visors) for car windows, called "visor". If various plastics are suitable for the production of automobile deflectors, devices for ventilation systems and smoke exhaust channels are made exclusively of metal. In their production is used:
- aluminum;
- stainless steel;
- galvanization;
- copper (rarely used due to high price).
With scopes and materials it is clear. Now you can consider design differences deflectors. By given feature devices are divided into:
In addition to the main types, there are many different designs that are sometimes difficult to classify. These are modern rotating deflectors with spiral blades, rotating on a bearing, or elementary umbrella covers. Simple deflectors are very popular, the installation of which can significantly increase traction.
It is worth noting another method for classifying these devices - the division into static (fixed) and rotational (rotating) deflectors.
If speak about technical specifications that distinguish such devices, there are not many of them:
- material of manufacture;
- sizes.
When choosing a deflector, you should pay attention to the design of the product. After the desired design type is selected, you can start selecting the optimal size.
The calculation of performance and the choice of the optimal design of ventilation deflectors is the topic of a separate article. In this text, we will consider devices for fireplace and stove chimneys.
Rotary deflectors
Rotating devices are used in ventilation systems and in chimneys. They do not require an engine - the rotation occurs under the influence of the wind. The rotating turbine creates a vacuum in the channel, drawing out excess heat and moisture, harmful gases and dust, protecting the interior from condensation.
Regardless of the direction of the wind, the head of the rotary deflector rotates in one direction, increasing the draft in the smoke and ventilation duct due to rarefaction. The rotating head prevents back draft in the canal.
It is especially convenient that the installation of rotary type deflectors does not require power supply. They use wind power.
Deflector device
As mentioned above, the Grigorovich design ventilation deflector is the simplest device. Consider the design of products using his example.
If you are interested independent production and installation of deflectors, it is better to take this design as a basis. It's better to start simple.
The design of the deflector consists of the following elements:
- upper cylinder;
- lower cylinder;
- branch pipe (included in the lower cylinder);
- cone (cap);
- mounting brackets.
The top cylinder is optional and may be omitted. In this case, the deflector includes:
- lower cylinder worn on (ventilation pipe);
- diffuser that cuts the air flow;
- cones (reverse and direct).
In this version of the deflector, the cone is also a cap that protects the pipe from precipitation.
Do-it-yourself deflector
The simplest deflector - schemeIt is quite simple to make a ventilation deflector on your own. You will need the following tools and materials, which are easy to buy at any hardware store:
- metal (galvanized, stainless steel);
- metal scissors;
- rivets with a riveter or just bolts with nuts;
- ruler and marker (pencil);
- thick cardboard;
- scissors or utility knife.
It is necessary to start with measurements and calculations - measure the height and diameter of the pipe, set the planned dimensions of the manufactured deflector. If this is your first time taking similar work, you should first try to make a cardboard layout. This material allows you to easily and quickly make a complete copy of the metal deflector, and the cost of a mistake is low.
Work should begin with the manufacture of the lower cylinder. Its diameter is set according to the diameter of the pipe.
Note: It is important not to make a mistake: the inner diameter of the cylinder must match the outer diameter of the pipe.
Next, a cone is made, for which a round part is cut out of metal. A slot is made along the radius of the part (from edge to center), and one edge is wound after the other, forming a cone.
The rest of the deflector parts are made in the same way.
It is better to connect the parts to each other using rivets or bolted connections according to the diagram. As a result, we have deflectors, the installation of which on the pipe does not take much effort.
The manufacture of rotary deflectors is much more difficult. If you have little experience in the manufacture of such products, a rotating deflector is easier to buy. the main problem in that the rotating parts require very precise calculation and manufacturing with small tolerances. Therefore, if you decide to make a ventilation deflector with your own hands, it is better to dwell on a static design.
This brilliant invention was invented not long ago. Namely, at the time when cars began to appear, in which the width of the body in the area of \u200b\u200bthe doors was greater than the width of the roof body. This design made it possible to improve the aerodynamic properties vehicle, as well as its stability on a straight road and in corners. But rather, for some drivers there were little difficulties. Firstly, in the summer the sun often shone on the side of the salon, since being even in top point, its light calmly fell into the eyes of the drivers. In addition, in rainy weather it was unrealistic to open the window to, for example, have a smoke, as the drops instantly wet the door card and the hand of the driver or passenger.
This was the turning point on the way to the invention of deflectors. Perhaps that is why in the common people they are called "visors", because they, like roof visors, protect from the direct rays of the sun, as well as from rain.
But it is also worth saying that today there are not only deflectors for windows, but also for the hood, roof and other parts of the car. That is, there are several main positive sides installing them on the car:
- protective function. When wondering how to glue windshields on a car, you protect yourself from stones flying from under other cars, debris, dust, flying insects and other things. This also includes protection from the rain.
- aesthetic function. It's no secret that the visors on the windows, on the hood or on the roof look very impressive, giving your favorite vehicle new tones and colors.
- Additional layer of tint. By installing deflectors side windows, you can further protect the interior and passengers from direct sunlight.
- In addition to all of the above, it is worth adding that the deflectors are made in such a way as to complement the car with aerodynamic properties.
How to glue the windshields on the car?
Many people make the mistake of thinking that you can glue deflectors without reading the instructions. But few people know that on the market today you can find visors for a variety of ways to attach them. But the main ones are adhesive-based deflectors, which, with the help of a special double-sided adhesive tape, can cling tightly to any car. And so, let's specifically discuss how to stick windshields on a car with your own hands? All work should be divided into several stages.
Stage one: ground preparation
At this stage, you need to clean the attachment site as much as possible. To do this, you must first wash the car so that dust and dirt from neighboring areas of the body do not settle on right place in progress. For this, a simple soapy solution and a rag are quite suitable.
After that, the surface must be degreased. For this purpose, medical alcohol or solvent is excellent. Just do not overdo it so as not to remove the native paint. This is very important nuance, since degreasing will give the desired adhesion force of adhesive tape on the visors.
Stage two: learning how to properly glue windshields on a car
And so, you have come to the main stage of the whole work. First of all, carefully unpack the kit. On expensive models there are protective films that are best removed after installation, as there is a possibility of damaging them in the process.
On the contact side there will be a tape that closes the double tape. All you need to do is peel it off and stick it in place. But it would be more correct, without tearing off this tape, to select the optimal level of the deflector, and mark with a pencil. And only after that, peel off the tape from the adhesive tape.
Plug-in version on glass
There are not only adhesive options on the market, but also plug-in ones. They are designed to be attached to rubber bands on car doors. Many are unhappy with these deflectors, since initially in factories car doors are not calculated for such manipulations, therefore the foreign body becomes redundant, looks bad and even breaks.
But the installation process itself is quite simple. It is enough just to lower the windows and insert the deflectors under the sealing tape. Be careful when closing windows for the first time so as not to break anything.
The question of how to glue windshields on a car requires some knowledge. There are no identical models and similar situations, each installation should be treated as the first one in order to carry out the process with the highest quality, and so that the deflectors serve the car owner for a long time and reliably!
Vladimir Maksimov
Almost all new vehicle owners consider it their obligatory duty to put plastic accessories on their car. Therefore, the installation of side window deflectors is very relevant.
Choosing the right device
First of all, when choosing deflectors for windows, you need to remember that they are purchased exclusively in accordance with a specific brand and type of vehicle. Universal models do not exist, because the design of the body and windows of each car model is unique. The main criterion by which all devices are classified is the method of attachment to the car window. On this basis, the following categories are distinguished:
- Side window deflectors with screw connection, for the installation of which it is necessary to damage the hood and door frames by drilling holes in them;
- Devices that sit on a double-sided elastic lining treated with an adhesive liquid;
- Combined deflectors. Their design combines several methods of fastening to car windows;
- Side window deflectors, which are attached with special clips and brackets.
Units for the installation of which it is necessary to drill holes, and thereby violate the integrity of the coating of the car body, are becoming less and less popular. The most common today are the following two installation methods:
- Glue the device with adhesive tape or insert it under the rubber gasket (used when working with window "vents");
- Fix the device with clamps, brackets and special adhesive pads.
Installation of the deflector "Vetrovika"
Mounting such a device with your own hands is very simple. The field of how everything necessary for installing the deflector has been correctly selected and prepared, you can get to work. First of all, you need to carefully surface where the installation will take place. It is advisable to use a degreaser. For polishing, it is best to use a technical solvent, rags, as well as paraffin and wax-containing mastic. It is best to glue the side window deflectors when the weather is dry outside, and the body temperature is not lower than eighteen degrees. It should be noted that installation work must be carried out simultaneously for both the front and rear windows of the car.
When installing a deflector for windows, you should adhere to the following algorithm of actions:
The process of installing deflectors - On the surface of the car door frame where the device will be glued, you need to degrease with alcohol or an alcohol-containing liquid and wipe it dry;
- The protective film on the adhesive part of the deflector for windows must be peeled off a couple of centimeters and the peeled fragments should be bent up;
- The side window deflector must be attached to the installation site, having previously lubricated the bare parts with glue to ensure better adhesion to the surface of the window body;
- After a visual assessment confirms the correct installation, protective film it is necessary to carefully remove to the end and glue it over the entire surface;
- Carry out the same procedure for the remaining windows.
Installation of "Fly Swatter"
Included with each "fly swatter" there are always several mounting brackets. They may differ slightly in parameters, but they perform the same function. If you want to properly mount the "fly swatter" with your own hands, then you need to proceed according to the following scheme:
The process of installing the deflector on the hood - The hood must be thoroughly washed and wiped dry, after which its front part is degreased with a solvent;
- It is necessary to install brackets on the device and try on;
- On the hood, the places where the brackets will be fixed are marked;
- The marked places are covered with special gaskets that protect the paintwork;
- Brackets are mounted on the hood and fixed in a strictly defined place;
- TO back parts devices are attached "pads" from which the film is removed (strictly in the place indicated in the instructions);
- The device is mounted in the intended place, the bolts on the brackets are tightened.
